Another really informative video. I am relatively new to brewing but will in the very near future be investing in a grainfather and have watched almost all your videos, they are really excellent for a novice brewer and learning from your wealth of experience is fantastic.Something if possible would be really beneficial would be a video on conditioning and bottling/kegging but more specifically how and when this is done with different strength beers. I would be most appreciative if you could do a video along these lines in the future.
Great to hear, thanks Tony. I believe I have already covered these topics :) Here are some links:- th-cam.com/video/i1ptICwg8vo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Yv8aU43ibAY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/hyCNxiSFARo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/JmkJxFTaQ7k/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/WLSEJCnRyWo/w-d-xo.html
Excellent advice and explanations all around. I had this topic on my to do list for my channel for a little while now. I get questions on this stuff regularly. I might just point them to this video instead of making my own. Thanks!
Hi David, Excellent video, truly enjoyed it. Just a wee note on the closing statement, it might be worth asking folk to check the bell icon to be notified of new videos :) otherwise they might miss out when you post! TH-cam's algorithm can be an odd mistress.
Always a real pleasure to watch a new video from you David! Here is a subject suggestion. As a beginner, I have a bit of problem to understand the right adjustments to make in my equipment settings and profile. An explanation of every and each variable to input in the Grainfather web software would be more than appreciated. Thank you so much, very helpful.
Hi David Swedish follower here, I have a grainfather myself and I always find your videos very useful. A few months ago, I visited the Griffin brewery in Chiswick, London (Fullers). The following might not be exactly right but at least roughly...When they brew their excellent bitters, Chiswick, Pride and ESB they mash in two mashtuns and then collect the first runnings from both in one copper and when filled up they continue collecting in a second one until sg approx. 1.005. Both coppers then boil with the same hop additions. After the boil the two worts are blended to make the different bitters. It is called parti-gyle and I guess this is nothing new for you. I wonder, did you ever try something similar with the grainfather?
Hi Tommy, great to hear that you are finding my videos useful :) I have brewed a lot like this in commercial brewing but not much at home. It would be possible to do this with a GF. I will probably make an in depth video about this at some point. You may find this method interesting also :- th-cam.com/video/YFWLw0wrA18/w-d-xo.html and this:- th-cam.com/video/8kSb-_9woZk/w-d-xo.html
I've been having a problem with over attenuation. I'm on my 15th all grain brew so I'm definitely new but hitting all my numbers almost spot on on my primitive system, except FG. My last brew was 8lbs maris otter and 5lbs red x. Sg and Og were spot on but Fg called for 1.017 and I hit 1.010. Doesn't seem too much different but I didn't want upper 6%, more like mid 5s. I used us04 dry yeast. I guess its within the yeasts range but I'd like it to have stopped higher. Maybe a higher mash temp would have achieved this? I did what the calculator said and it was 150. 150 to start that is and ended at 146 after an hour which is great, but not if I should have been 155 or so
Hi Adam, there are so many variables involved here that at best these numbers are rough guesses in reality. Sometimes we get close but not always. In addition to this yeast can certainly vary and you could also have wild yeast joining the party too. Mash temps play a large role as well as the malt you use. There are simply lots of things this could be. I would start with a major clean in case it is some wild yeast living on your fermenter and other items that come into contact with your wort.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew funny you say that, I took a trip to my dad's house and we whipped up a 5 gallon batch of wild persimmon wine and I used his plastic bucket so I brought it home with me. I transferred the wine as I was brewing so I used his bucket. I washed good and star san but between the wine yeast and the wild yeast on the persimmons....🤔🤔🤔
The days of being over target gravity are always the best compared to having less and more volume. (calcutator fails) Adding a small amount of water to compensate is such a joy compared to watching grass grow. (evaporation) Just makes the brewday longer. That reminds me, i need a video about how to make free time to brew without a cut in income XD 2 brewdays this year so far, kinda sad
Hi David Thanks for many of your videos lots of good info and tips! I have a question about PPG (points per pound per gallon) in fermentablets in resepies on the grainfather. How do you calculate this? I have watched On Google an TH-cam without finding good information maybe you could hjelp me. Is there a formel converting fra US to metric? Regards Finn
Helpful video thanks David but I'm still unclear on efficiencies. The G/F book details two efficiencies, one is on preboil SG and volume, the second on fermenter SG and volume. Of these, which is Brewhouse efficiency and which is mash efficiency? Cheers.
Thanks Peter. Mash efficiency is just the mash. BH efficiency is considering the whole process looking at volume and gravity. You can measure preboil also but for the most part its just the 2 I mention to focus on.
Hi David, what are your thoughts on using a refractometer to measure final gravity? I have always understood that a refractometer is only used for measuring original gravity, but have recently learned that some people are using various calculators to factor in the alcohol content when taking a final gravity reading.
I use a refractometer myself during the boil to see how things are coming along. Once alcohol is present then I recommend a hydrometer. For more info check this video out :- th-cam.com/video/WZgmTy_nDqs/w-d-xo.html
Great video! I heard somewhere that if you're mash efficiency is over 80% you are extracting more tannins. What are your thoughts on that? I'm not sure it would be that noticeable IMO cheers David! 👍🍻
Big topic but I will try to summarise! Kunze said in a paper he wrote that 80% of a beers tannins “originate” from malt. I believe this may of been confused by the source you got the info from, who knows where down the line these inaccuracies come from. He was also talking about German beer that has low hop content. A US IPA would challenge this as much tannin content can come from hops. Often people mistake a tannin taste is beer being down to a fault in content or this over efficiency myth. An overly Tannin taste in my experience is most likey coming from a mash that has been steeped too long or a mash temp that has been too high. You can also get this tannin problem from a very over zealous dry hop time or having a high ph.The tannins are actually a driving force in a beers flavour, as long as you dont go crazy with them then all is good :)
Another really informative video. I am relatively new to brewing but will in the very near future be investing in a grainfather and have watched almost all your videos, they are really excellent for a novice brewer and learning from your wealth of experience is fantastic.Something if possible would be really beneficial would be a video on conditioning and bottling/kegging but more specifically how and when this is done with different strength beers. I would be most appreciative if you could do a video along these lines in the future.
Great to hear, thanks Tony. I believe I have already covered these topics :) Here are some links:- th-cam.com/video/i1ptICwg8vo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Yv8aU43ibAY/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/hyCNxiSFARo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/JmkJxFTaQ7k/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/WLSEJCnRyWo/w-d-xo.html
You deserve more followers mate, great videos
Thank You lucien that means a lot. The problem with youtube is that it only really promotes videos and channels with large amounts of views.
Excellent advice and explanations all around. I had this topic on my to do list for my channel for a little while now. I get questions on this stuff regularly. I might just point them to this video instead of making my own. Thanks!
Much appreciated Larry. Yes I made this video based on a large amount of questions, seems an area of confusion for many.
Hi David,
Excellent video, truly enjoyed it.
Just a wee note on the closing statement, it might be worth asking folk to check the bell icon to be notified of new videos :) otherwise they might miss out when you post! TH-cam's algorithm can be an odd mistress.
Thats great to hear :) Yes thats a good idea, I never thought of that before!
A brilliant video David .Excellent advice and tips. Thank you very much.
Great, glad you found it useful :)
Always a real pleasure to watch a new video from you David! Here is a subject suggestion. As a beginner, I have a bit of problem to understand the right adjustments to make in my equipment settings and profile. An explanation of every and each variable to input in the Grainfather web software would be more than appreciated. Thank you so much, very helpful.
Hi Yannick, many thanks for the great feedback and suggestion :)
Have you seen this:- th-cam.com/video/R4-oOuDSeTg/w-d-xo.html
very good video David , thanks Ivan
Great to hear that you enjoyed it Ivan :)
Hi David
Swedish follower here, I have a grainfather myself and I always find your videos very useful.
A few months ago, I visited the Griffin brewery in Chiswick, London (Fullers). The following might not be exactly right but at least roughly...When they brew their excellent bitters, Chiswick, Pride and ESB they mash in two mashtuns and then collect the first runnings from both in one copper and when filled up they continue collecting in a second one until sg approx. 1.005. Both coppers then boil with the same hop additions. After the boil the two worts are blended to make the different bitters. It is called parti-gyle and I guess this is nothing new for you. I wonder, did you ever try something similar with the grainfather?
Hi Tommy, great to hear that you are finding my videos useful :) I have brewed a lot like this in commercial brewing but not much at home. It would be possible to do this with a GF. I will probably make an in depth video about this at some point. You may find this method interesting also :- th-cam.com/video/YFWLw0wrA18/w-d-xo.html and this:- th-cam.com/video/8kSb-_9woZk/w-d-xo.html
I've been having a problem with over attenuation. I'm on my 15th all grain brew so I'm definitely new but hitting all my numbers almost spot on on my primitive system, except FG. My last brew was 8lbs maris otter and 5lbs red x. Sg and Og were spot on but Fg called for 1.017 and I hit 1.010. Doesn't seem too much different but I didn't want upper 6%, more like mid 5s. I used us04 dry yeast. I guess its within the yeasts range but I'd like it to have stopped higher. Maybe a higher mash temp would have achieved this? I did what the calculator said and it was 150. 150 to start that is and ended at 146 after an hour which is great, but not if I should have been 155 or so
Hi Adam, there are so many variables involved here that at best these numbers are rough guesses in reality. Sometimes we get close but not always. In addition to this yeast can certainly vary and you could also have wild yeast joining the party too. Mash temps play a large role as well as the malt you use. There are simply lots of things this could be. I would start with a major clean in case it is some wild yeast living on your fermenter and other items that come into contact with your wort.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew funny you say that, I took a trip to my dad's house and we whipped up a 5 gallon batch of wild persimmon wine and I used his plastic bucket so I brought it home with me. I transferred the wine as I was brewing so I used his bucket. I washed good and star san but between the wine yeast and the wild yeast on the persimmons....🤔🤔🤔
Ahar. That would certainly do it!
The days of being over target gravity are always the best compared to having less and more volume. (calcutator fails) Adding a small amount of water to compensate is such a joy compared to watching grass grow. (evaporation)
Just makes the brewday longer.
That reminds me, i need a video about how to make free time to brew without a cut in income XD
2 brewdays this year so far, kinda sad
.
Hi David
Thanks for many of your videos lots of good info and tips!
I have a question about PPG (points per pound per gallon) in fermentablets in resepies on the grainfather. How do you calculate this? I have watched On Google an TH-cam without finding good information maybe you could hjelp me. Is there a formel converting fra US to metric?
Regards
Finn
Thank you for the great feedback, much appreciated :)
Helpful video thanks David but I'm still unclear on efficiencies. The G/F book details two efficiencies, one is on preboil SG and volume, the second on fermenter SG and volume. Of these, which is Brewhouse efficiency and which is mash efficiency? Cheers.
Thanks Peter. Mash efficiency is just the mash. BH efficiency is considering the whole process looking at volume and gravity. You can measure preboil also but for the most part its just the 2 I mention to focus on.
Tilt hydrometer are the best
I have a comparison coming soon.
Hi David, what are your thoughts on using a refractometer to measure final gravity? I have always understood that a refractometer is only used for measuring original gravity, but have recently learned that some people are using various calculators to factor in the alcohol content when taking a final gravity reading.
I use a refractometer myself during the boil to see how things are coming along. Once alcohol is present then I recommend a hydrometer. For more info check this video out :- th-cam.com/video/WZgmTy_nDqs/w-d-xo.html
🙏 🙏🙏🙏🙏 sir 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Glad you enjoyed it Suri :)
Great video! I heard somewhere that if you're mash efficiency is over 80% you are extracting more tannins. What are your thoughts on that? I'm not sure it would be that noticeable IMO cheers David! 👍🍻
Big topic but I will try to summarise! Kunze said in a paper he wrote that 80% of a beers tannins “originate” from malt. I believe this may of been confused by the source you got the info from, who knows where down the line these inaccuracies come from. He was also talking about German beer that has low hop content. A US IPA would challenge this as much tannin content can come from hops. Often people mistake a tannin taste is beer being down to a fault in content or this over efficiency myth. An overly Tannin taste in my experience is most likey coming from a mash that has been steeped too long or a mash temp that has been too high. You can also get this tannin problem from a very over zealous dry hop time or having a high ph.The tannins are actually a driving force in a beers flavour, as long as you dont go crazy with them then all is good :)