Great video again mate. Youre right about the A.A%. some hops here in australia are up to 5% different than what is on brewfather. Adjustments are needed.
Good David, thank you. Filled in more gaps which I guess will continue as long as you keep putting up vids. I'll go thru it again to assimilate what I missed the first time.
Hi David...Love your videos; VERY helpful!! One question regarding first wort hop additions...I am making a beer that calls for this method and I am using a Grainfather. Do I just dump the hop (pellets) on top of the screen before sparge, or do I add them to he wort? The next addition is at 30 minutes (all hops are Citra). Thanks for your time and great, helpful videos!
Thank you. This is a pretty big topic but I can give you an outline. This is essentially adding a large amount of hops during the final phase of brewing. It is also known as “ Late hopping” I hope this helps :)
I brew a lot of pale ales and ipas. In general I will use first wort hops for bittering, I like that it drops the sharpness I'm there bitterness. and at the end of boil I'll drop to about 160 degree F and hop burst/hop stand for an hour to maximize flavor/minimize bitterness. Then I'll dry hop usually at the tail end of primary In about 3 days in and sometimes as soon as it goes into primary like in a neipa. I've been pretty happy with the results using these methods. Malt balance is key too in order to really lift those hop flavors.
Hello, I recently read an interesting chapter in Toni Nottebohm's book „Hopfenliebe“ (hop love) about the bitterness contribution of dry hopping. I wanna quote+translate it here and wonder what you think of this. Maybe this would also make an interesting experiment :) ... „Bitterness can also get into beer throughdry-hopping. Oxidized alpha acids, humulions, are easily transferred into beer through dry-hopping. Humulions have around two-thirds the bitterness of iso-alpha acids and contribute most to the bitterness of dry-hopping. It has been observed that they produce a gentler bitterness than iso-alpha acids. The reason for this is the more polar molecular structure of humullones, which is why they do not stick to the tongue as strongly. However, dry-hopping also removes iso-alpha acids from the beer because they stick to the plant material of the hops and precipitate with it. At the same time, humulions are introduced. Studies have shown that beers with less than 20 IBUs tend to become more bitter when dry-hopping (approx. 3 g/l), while beers with more than 30 IBUs become less bitter. The more hops are added during dry-hopping, the more iso-alpha acids are precipitated and the more humullones are transferred to the beer. Humullones have around ten times more influence on beer bitterness than the polyphenols, which are also extracted during dry-hopping. Alpha acids also pass into the beer, but only develop 10% of the bitterness of iso-alpha acids. Beta acids and oxidized beta acids, on the other hand, have almost no influence on bitterness, as they are very poorly soluble in beer. Interestingly, these effects can mean that a dry-hopped beer and a beer that is only hopped during wort boiling can have the same IBUS, but taste very differently bitter.“ ... Best Regards!
Interesting. There are various opinions on this out there. I personally believe that dry hopping can add to percieved bitterness and this is often temporary. This is based on my own experiences. 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks for another informative video David. Just about to bottle my version of your Belgian Dark Strong Ale, 12months conditioning, and i am eagerly looking forward to a carbonated tasting:) Cheers
I received some advice on dry hopping from a professional brewer out here in Southern California. He recommended that dry hopping is best performed for 24-48 hours toward the end of activate fermentation. The shorter contact time reduces the chances of getting a vegetal or horse blanket type of flavor/aroma and the yeast will consume or precipitate out some of the less desirable volatile compounds. I tried this with a recent NE IPA brew and it has the best hop flavor and aroma of any beer I've brewed. You can also get some excellent results by dropping cryo hops into the keg for a longer duration (the cryogenic process removes astringent flavors and vegetative cone material). I added some cryo Citra and Mosaic to my keg with lovely results (note: I removed the keg from my keezer for about two weeks to get the temperature up during the process).
Ryan Shwayder Horses for courses really Ryan. Each brewer has their own viewpoint and it really also depends on the styles you are brewing. Try it all and see what you think :)
Awesome channel!! I look forward to every Wednesday for the next one and to see what you are drinking on Friday's! I searched through the comments so as not to repeat anything and didn't see my question, so hear it goes. When dry hopping using a bag, let's say an NEIPA, should I remove the bag after the 3-5 days contact time and let the beer condition or transfer the beer to a keg to condition to get it off the dry hop? I understand that oxygen is the enemy, especially for that style, so if I remove the bag, I will obviously be introducing oxygen. I guess I could remove the bag, then purge with CO2? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank You.
Great to hear Scott 🍻🍻🍻 I always add my hops in the final stages of fermentation. 5-10 gravity points away. This means that after 3 to 5 days I can transfer into a key off of the dry hops. Works well 🍻🍻
Great video again. Questions on your comment of using 10% more hops if using a hop spider. 1. Is this 10% the same for bittering, Aroma and flameout? 2. How do you deal with the additional 10% in your brewing software? if I up the quantities it will change the IBU's for the recipe. 3. Is the 10% based on weight or IBUs? Thanks.
Thanks James. This 10% is to compensate IBU losses. So if your addition was 100g, use 110g instead for the true effect. No point adding it into your brewing software though.
Great videos about hopping!. So technically, if I forgot to Steep the hops in the end of a boil (for aroma), should I dry hop it or make a tea? Making your Bohemian pilsner with saaz.
I have covered this well in many of my brew videos. Check them for the visuals but here are some tips also:- sparge evenly across the plate covering each part, never allow the water level to raise above the finger plates and let it go to plate level before you add more water. Never let the grain bed go dry until you have finished. A 1L jug is perfect to sparge with. Hope this helps. Any questions let me know :)
Hi David, a question regarding first wort hop addictions, I read Somewhere in homebrew forum that the ibu of fwh should be the same perceived by a 20min Hop addiction, how do you calculate your fwh ibu? Btw, just won 1st and 2nd place in a local homebrewing competition, I owe you a lot, you made a huge difference, I cant even compare my actual beer to the One I brewed 6 months ago. THANKS!
Hi Pedro, People say all sorts of things!!, this is simply not true as the FW addition is added for part of the mash and the entire boil. I suggest using brewing software for all hop additions and let it make the calculations. Awesome to hear about your competition results!! Well done, I am glad to be able to help :) Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David. So I think I have a method of injecting hop tea into my primary fermenter using a kegland T from a PET bottle purging that bottle. Question is, is hop tea as effective as dry hopping in your opinion? And do I risk a lot of oxidation? I could purge the bottle as much as I want with CO2 and transfer to the keg. I've not used hop tea before. I know I could just try it but trying to learn this method without messing. Up to bad. Lol. 🍻
Hi David, hop utilisation seem like a real mystery to me. Temperature and time are 2 variables that seem to impart a varying outcome, and I probably over think trying to be more precise with my results. But when brewing the Marris Otter / Citra Smash, I tried to use my taste bud to see how long it would take to extract the resins from the pellets. I used the hop spider and spoon to sample over time, but even after 30min there are still considerable flavour being extracted. The temperature I used was 80*C to begin down to 60*C. Listening to you video on hop tea compared to DRY hopping is very interesting and for the reasons why,, as I see it. I want to explore hop tea instead of dry hopping for when pressure fermenting. Just add the tea to the bottle and open the valve. No vegetal matter going into the fermenter and potentially no grassy taste. Right? Cheers and thanks again Michael
When you use your grainfather to make whirpool hops at 80c do you run the hot liquore through the pump for 5 minutes then cool it to 80c using the heat exchange.
I have a question regarding flameout, whirlpool, and hopstand. I will shortly be making my very first brew and have been slightly confused by a lot of incompatible and not always clear information from the myriad of sources out there. My plan is to use a low amount of bittering hop throughout the boil and adding flavour/aroma hops in the end. The setup will be quite basic. When whirlpooling and doing a hopstand, do you start at flameout and is it important to chill as quickly from flameout to ~80C and then add your hops for the whirlpool and hopstand? And do you then keep the temperature high or continue to cool? How "unsafe" in regards to contaminants is it to not have a quick cooling of your wart? If using a submersion chiller, does this disturb the whirlpool effect enough for it not to be worth the bother? Hope some help can be found out there. :)
Hi Puk :) Yes, hop stands start at flameout (straight after you switch off heating) and it is important to cool the wort down quickly. It is a risk not worth tempting. It is often to 80-81 but not always. This temp is held for the period of the hop stand after the hops are added. Immersion chillers are ideal for this cooling. I hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you very much for your reply! I've been looking through a lot of your recipe and technique videos lately. My plan is to brew a not too heavy IPA style beer. The fermenter should accomodate 25L and I'm going for ABV 5.1% and IBU 53 by: Fermentables (5.8 kg) 4.5 kg - Pale Ale 2-Row 6 EBC (77.6%) 500 g - Carahell 25.5 EBC (8.6%) 500 g - Munich Light 16 EBC (8.6%) 300 g - Rolled Oats 2.7 EBC (5.2%) Hops (155 g) 60 min - 5 g - Magnum - 12% (6 IBU) 15 min - 20 g - Amarillo - 9.2% (11 IBU) 15 min - 20 g - Simcoe - 13% (15 IBU) Hop Stand 30 min hopstand @ 80 °C 30 min - 50 g - Centennial - 10% (9 IBU) 30 min - 30 g - Amarillo - 9.2% (5 IBU) 30 min - 30 g - Simcoe - 13% (7 IBU) Yeast 1 pkg - Fermentis SafAle English Ale S-04 I'm assuming I just need to start cooling at flameout until I reach about 80 °C, add the hops and whirlpool and then steep for the duration before turning cooling on again until the temperature is ~19 °C. I've been reading, that a secondary fermentation is not necessary, when you don't want to clear your beer. Could I just transfer to bottles directly after first fermentation or would you advise a racking?
So far, I am still in the novice stage as I have been brewing less than 2 years. I have only hopped my beer in the boil. I am considering dry hopping a malty beer because I don't care for the flavor of malt with very little hop flavor.
Hi David. I'm just planning my latest brew to highlight Ahtanum hops... Was planning 20g Centennial(9%) for 60,then Ahtanum at 20(10g) 10(40g) flameout(25g) and 25g dry hop ,but after your comments on low alphas ( these are 3.8%) thinking of ditching the dry hop ? Should I just put these on the flame out or elsewhere in the boil ?
Could you tell me how to know how much hops to add to one gallon smash beers? Im not using a brewing calculator yet. Im interested in Belgian pale ale styles of single hop beers. My next project is using jarrylo hops, and im not sure how much to use, so any help would be appreciated.
Great video David. Just one question regarding first wort hopping in the Grainfather. How would you get the hops into the wort with the grain basket in the way?
Thanks. The fast easy way is to lift the grain basket with one hand and add the hops with the other. You can try feeding the hops through the gap but its slow and usually means hops on the floor when you get impatient and rush it. Nothing to stop you removing the grain basket totally, adding the hops and then replacing it. Put it into a fermentation bucket whilst off and pour back any wort afterwards. Just be fast, you do not want that grainbed to run dry.
David, I'm brewing an IPA and I really want a strong orange aroma and flavor. Currently I plan on using citra for bittering then amarillo at flame out, amarillo at peak fermentation, followed by another addition of amarillo day 5 or 7 of fermentation. I am considering using sweet orange peel also. I would greatly appreciate your input. Thank you.🍻
If you really want to focus on orange then other hops would include cascade and summit but bitter and sweet orange peel will contribute more. If you add orange peel to vodka and then add this to a bottling bucket this will give the strongest level of orange. You could also use orange essence, if you can find it.
I've also noticed that you never seem to use a hops spider? I have seen you use the tea strainer with the weights in them and I assume this is a fer better way to allow everything to mix in better? Cheers :)
Hop spiders are better used for things like candy sugar really. You will need to use 10% more hops and stir it. The tea strainer is more about filtering and an early alarm system for a problem with too fine a graincrush.
A valuable video as always - quick question........I'm about to do my first dry hop, following the Brewdog Punk IPA recipe which calls for 6 different hops (200g in total) to dry hop for up to 5 days. I watched your other hop video showing the tea infusers which I will get hold of but is there an issue with putting all 6 hops in the same infuser - or a smallest number which will adequately hold everything (with some extra room allowed)? Cheers.
Great to hear, thank you. No problem in mixing dry hops. Just be careful to not fill the tea strainers past 50% as they will expand after being added. Hope this helps
Hey David, re/ 7:53 --> how would you go about combining a "30 minute hop stand" with the best practice to run the 100° C wort through the Grainfather counterflow chiller in order to sanitize it. I'm asking as I was brewing today and ended up with this situation: for the first time I had wanted to add a "hop stand"-hops and as the boiling phase was over I sprinkled the hops into the hopper. As I then stood in front of the setup I noticed the temperature starting to drop and decided to cut out the hop stand in favor of properly sanitizing the counterflow chiller. Any idea/advice on this? Thx!!
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thx so much for your answer! So you're saying: - finish the boiling cycle - connect the chiller, start the pump, and run the wort through it to sanitize keeping the heater turned on to maintain boiling temps - then stop the pump and turn off the heater and start the hop stand - after finishing the hop stand turn on the pump again and begin the cooling process Well, yeah, now that it's all laid out like this it's simple and makes sense :D Thx again!
Great Video as always! Those leggings made me "hoppy" but it's doubtful she drinks a lot of beer with a body like that. Do you usually wait 30-60 minutes before cooling the wort with flameout hop additions? I personally have never, I usually start cooling right after flame out and keep the hops in there during the cooling faze which usually takes 30-40 minutes. Also, the last comment "when using a hop spider" is that only in regards to frozen hops? *cheers
Yes, I think you are right...unless shes into cardio :) I usually wait 15 minutes afterwhirlpooling. This gives reasonable steeping time and also enough time to seperate the wort from the trub. The hop spider advice is for any hop. Its standard stuff.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew its been in keg for just over a week, I think maybe I didnt leave it fermenting long enough? Kit said 6 days but maybe needed longer?
@TheAmateursOriginalMusic This could improve but do know that it is vital to take a final gravity reading to judge a beer being finished. I look for 3 days to go past at the same reading to call it over. Do you have a hydrometer?
I've just been putting a hopsock in there, will try the hop tea in the next brew to try it out :) My ipa's get snowglobe syndrome in their second week of carbonation, looks like protein to me, flavour is super. But i have to idea where it;s coming from. Any idea's? O, and i made your bohemian pilsner last week. on point on every thing apart from fermentation. My Glycol chiller died the next morning :( So it has been fermenting at room temp for a week. Have'nt thrown it out yet, but im sure it's not going to taste like a pilsener :(
I am a big fan of hop tea :) That snowglobe effect is nothing to worry about. It is probably a yeast characteristic/ protein. Sorry to hear about your glycol chiller. Give the beer a taste, many lager yeasts are less fussy and it could well be drinkable. Fingers crossed for you :)
David Heath yeah I hope it's drinkable. Would be fun to do a taste comparison against a lagered version. I have a new chiller now that currently is chilling water until my trust issues are over. :)
Thanks this video was particularity helpful tonight as I'm looking at trying a recipe (Warsteiner my favourite beer)from the Grainfather site for the first time and was having difficulty matching the hops requirement with my local brew store as they have the same name but different AA values. I've looked at the GF site but the calculators section doesn't seem to cover this. Is there an easy way to calculate the additional hops required to meet the target AA requirements? Cheers :)
Hi David, I am about to do my first brew with Grainfather mash tun / hop boiler, I have a sparge water heater and two conical fermenters with glycol chiller. The last home brew that I did was way back in the early '80's using Dave lines Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy recipes, and a brewheat boiler. The process that I was used to included adding Irish Moss at the hop boil, followed by primary and secondary fermentations, at the secondary fermentation Gelatine was added. Are these additives and two fermentation stages still necessary? And where can I buy those leggings, are they on the Grainfather web site?
Hey Eve, The irish moss is still used but most people skip secondary these days unless its a high alcohol beer for conditioning or secondary for fruit additions. With a conical you can simply dump the trub and add fruit. Carboys are still great for conditioning beers over long periods. These leggings can be found here :- beerbreathco.com/products/hops-leggings
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all and helping me out of the dark ages into more modern methods! But what about gelatine for Finings? if so when do I add it into the conical fermenter, or do I add it into the polypin after fermentation? Or isn't there a need to do this anymore with using modern eqt?
Things haven’t changed hugely really. The main changes are the equipment quality for the price. I use gelatine still. I add in the day before bottling to the conical fermenter at temps of 10-21 deg c for the best effect. Some like to cold crash for 1-3 days these days. I would suggest trying both and see what you prefer. You can bottle directly from the conical fermenter. Happy brewing :)
Beautiful video again :) One question, David, does it make any sense or have you ever used as an experiment a hop addition in a different way to bring bitterness in a malty beer? i.e. for a london bitter style have you experienced different additions of hops to provide aroma and flavor apart from the addition to give bitterness? Another example: imagine you have a recipe for the famous london pride (which I recently developed, being really good). Have you imagined adding hops traditionally used as bitterness as hoptea or late aditions? and aromatic hops traditionally used to provide aroma and flavor i.e "hallertauer hoptea"? I know it may seem like a "sacrilege" according to the "established norms" but my imagination is great :) Regards!!
Hey Fernando, Yes ive tried all sorts of mix ups! The grain bill of a London pride is very flexible. Bittering hops come in so many types but some are multi purpose and can be used which ever way you wish. Hallertau hops work well for a dry up, as long as its short and in small numbers. Ek goldings are the same.
David Heath Nice to hear it. And any example you liked and results in an interesting improvement? Will try some “fool & cool experiments”...trying not to explode with my kitchen haha. Cheers! (perhaps in a future video?) 😉
I wouldn’t say improve, just change. Less malty beers benefit much more in my opinion. Golden ales being the ones I play around with the most. See my hoppy summer ale video :)
5:07 you know, going by your voice I wouldn't have expected you to look this dashing. But I should have known better. The hops-leggings at the beginning of the clip were a dead give away. :D
Subtitles intro: three beer it’s good fire (music) tea Nanna lie down. lol, I like to sing “ I am gonna drink beer till I need to lie down”. Not the actual lyrics to the intro. :)
I love the Hazy beers, AKA NEIPA's. the reason i asked for your favorite hops is because I am planning to grow a couple of varieties of hops next spring. just want our insight. I should of asked, if you were going to grow hops what variety would you grow. LOL
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as a newbie homebrewer, your channel has been of great value, thanks a lot!
Great to hear Francisco :) New videos coming every Sunday and sometimes more but almost 250 out there already :)
Such a useful video, answered every question I had and many more. All delivered in a easily accessible way, perfect.
Awesome to hear, thanks, lots more on the channel like this 🍻🍻🍻
These videos have single handily become one of my favorite resources. Thanks for taking the time to share the information, David!!
That is awesome to hear John. Let me know if there is something that I havent covered yet that interests you :)
Well everything brewing interests me but I'll make sure to have a think about it. Thanks again!
Great :)
David I brewed a 10 liter batch of your Citrus Orange Wit 8 weeks ago bottled it and it has become the most delicious beer ever.
That sounds great Mark. I am very glad that you are enjoying it. I am very fond of that one myself :)
Great video again mate. Youre right about the A.A%. some hops here in australia are up to 5% different than what is on brewfather. Adjustments are needed.
Thanks Stefan, yes it is important stuff.
As ever, very educational and interesting. Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Many thanks Mike, glad you enjoyed it :)
This was great to a new starter like myself looking to experiment with hops.
Great to hear, many thanks for the feedback :)
Thank you for this information. Tom from NJ
Thank you, glad that you found it useful :)
Hi, David, thanks for your suggestions and the info in the video.I'll follow it. Regards, Colin
Great stuff :)
Good David, thank you. Filled in more gaps which I guess will continue as long as you keep putting up vids. I'll go thru it again to assimilate what I missed the first time.
Great, good to hear Peter :)
Another great video, thanks David. I use use your videos as reference tool whenever I am planning my brews.
Thanks Peter, great to hear :)
Hi David...Love your videos; VERY helpful!! One question regarding first wort hop additions...I am making a beer that calls for this method and I am using a Grainfather. Do I just dump the hop (pellets) on top of the screen before sparge, or do I add them to he wort? The next addition is at 30 minutes (all hops are Citra). Thanks for your time and great, helpful videos!
Thanks Bob great to hear. I suggest adding them to the wort.
Thanks David! Most informative. I also enjoyed the great Hop Tea video and look forward to trying that.
Thank you, great to hear :)
Thanks for another great video David. Can you please explain a bit more about hop bursting, what it's for and how to do it?
Thank you. This is a pretty big topic but I can give you an outline. This is essentially adding a large amount of hops during the final phase of brewing. It is also known as “ Late hopping”
I hope this helps :)
Another great video. Thanks, David!
Thanks Robert, glad you enjoyed it :)
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Very informative! Many thanks
Glad it was helpful! 🍻🍻😎
I brew a lot of pale ales and ipas. In general I will use first wort hops for bittering, I like that it drops the sharpness I'm there bitterness. and at the end of boil I'll drop to about 160 degree F and hop burst/hop stand for an hour to maximize flavor/minimize bitterness. Then I'll dry hop usually at the tail end of primary In about 3 days in and sometimes as soon as it goes into primary like in a neipa. I've been pretty happy with the results using these methods. Malt balance is key too in order to really lift those hop flavors.
Sounds good to me Kyle. You should try hop tea, that is giving a much wide spectrum and flavour that many people really enjoy :)
Kyle - when you say Malt balance, do you mean lighter malt?
Hello,
I recently read an interesting chapter in Toni Nottebohm's book „Hopfenliebe“ (hop love) about the bitterness contribution of dry hopping.
I wanna quote+translate it here and wonder what you think of this. Maybe this would also make an interesting experiment :)
... „Bitterness can also get into beer throughdry-hopping. Oxidized alpha acids, humulions, are easily transferred into beer through dry-hopping. Humulions have around two-thirds the bitterness of iso-alpha acids and contribute most to the bitterness of dry-hopping. It has been observed that they produce a gentler bitterness than iso-alpha acids. The reason for this is the more polar molecular structure of humullones, which is why they do not stick to the tongue as strongly.
However, dry-hopping also removes iso-alpha acids from the beer because they stick to the plant material of the hops and precipitate with it. At the same time, humulions are introduced. Studies have shown that beers with less than 20 IBUs tend to become more bitter when dry-hopping (approx. 3 g/l), while beers with more than 30 IBUs become less bitter.
The more hops are added during dry-hopping, the more iso-alpha acids are precipitated and the more humullones are transferred to the beer. Humullones have around ten times more influence on beer bitterness than the polyphenols, which are also extracted during dry-hopping. Alpha acids also pass into the beer, but only develop 10% of the bitterness of iso-alpha acids. Beta acids and oxidized beta acids, on the other hand, have almost no influence on bitterness, as they are very poorly soluble in beer.
Interestingly, these effects can mean that a dry-hopped beer and a beer that is only hopped during wort boiling can have the same IBUS, but taste very differently bitter.“ ...
Best Regards!
Interesting. There are various opinions on this out there. I personally believe that dry hopping can add to percieved bitterness and this is often temporary. This is based on my own experiences. 🍻🍻🍻
Thanks for another informative video David. Just about to bottle my version of your Belgian Dark Strong Ale, 12months conditioning, and i am eagerly looking forward to a carbonated tasting:) Cheers
I am going to bottle mine soon also. Always turns out very well that one :)
Excellent video and information. It will help me a lot in my future brews.
Great to hear :) Many thanks for the feedback :)
Thanks for the video very informative. I thought there was some magic formula needed to work our desired IBU so thanks for clearing that up
Thanks Warren, glad it helped you :)
I received some advice on dry hopping from a professional brewer out here in Southern California. He recommended that dry hopping is best performed for 24-48 hours toward the end of activate fermentation.
The shorter contact time reduces the chances of getting a vegetal or horse blanket type of flavor/aroma and the yeast will consume or precipitate out some of the less desirable volatile compounds. I tried this with a recent NE IPA brew and it has the best hop flavor and aroma of any beer I've brewed.
You can also get some excellent results by dropping cryo hops into the keg for a longer duration (the cryogenic process removes astringent flavors and vegetative cone material). I added some cryo Citra and Mosaic to my keg with lovely results (note: I removed the keg from my keezer for about two weeks to get the temperature up during the process).
Ryan Shwayder Horses for courses really Ryan. Each brewer has their own viewpoint and it really also depends on the styles you are brewing. Try it all and see what you think :)
Awesome channel!! I look forward to every Wednesday for the next one and to see what you are drinking on Friday's! I searched through the comments so as not to repeat anything and didn't see my question, so hear it goes. When dry hopping using a bag, let's say an NEIPA, should I remove the bag after the 3-5 days contact time and let the beer condition or transfer the beer to a keg to condition to get it off the dry hop? I understand that oxygen is the enemy, especially for that style, so if I remove the bag, I will obviously be introducing oxygen. I guess I could remove the bag, then purge with CO2? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank You.
Great to hear Scott 🍻🍻🍻
I always add my hops in the final stages of fermentation. 5-10 gravity points away. This means that after 3 to 5 days I can transfer into a key off of the dry hops. Works well 🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you.
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David a very helpful informative video , thanks Ivan
Great, thanks Ivan great to hear :)
Great video again. Questions on your comment of using 10% more hops if using a hop spider. 1. Is this 10% the same for bittering, Aroma and flameout? 2. How do you deal with the additional 10% in your brewing software? if I up the quantities it will change the IBU's for the recipe. 3. Is the 10% based on weight or IBUs? Thanks.
Thanks James. This 10% is to compensate IBU losses. So if your addition was 100g, use 110g instead for the true effect. No point adding it into your brewing software though.
Great videos about hopping!. So technically, if I forgot to Steep the hops in the end of a boil (for aroma), should I dry hop it or make a tea? Making your Bohemian pilsner with saaz.
That will work yes :)
Brilliant. Answered some questions I had. Thanks mate.
Great to hear Tony :)
Just what i was looking for. Thanks!
Great to hear, plenty more in my channel like this :)
David, will you make a video on how to sparge properly and increase efficiency? Thanks
I have covered this well in many of my brew videos. Check them for the visuals but here are some tips also:- sparge evenly across the plate covering each part, never allow the water level to raise above the finger plates and let it go to plate level before you add more water. Never let the grain bed go dry until you have finished. A 1L jug is perfect to sparge with. Hope this helps. Any questions let me know :)
Interesting stuff. Cheers.
Thanks :)
Hi David, a question regarding first wort hop addictions, I read Somewhere in homebrew forum that the ibu of fwh should be the same perceived by a 20min Hop addiction, how do you calculate your fwh ibu? Btw, just won 1st and 2nd place in a local homebrewing competition, I owe you a lot, you made a huge difference, I cant even compare my actual beer to the One I brewed 6 months ago. THANKS!
Hi Pedro, People say all sorts of things!!, this is simply not true as the FW addition is added for part of the mash and the entire boil.
I suggest using brewing software for all hop additions and let it make the calculations.
Awesome to hear about your competition results!! Well done, I am glad to be able to help :)
Cheers 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David. So I think I have a method of injecting hop tea into my primary fermenter using a kegland T from a PET bottle purging that bottle. Question is, is hop tea as effective as dry hopping in your opinion? And do I risk a lot of oxidation? I could purge the bottle as much as I want with CO2 and transfer to the keg. I've not used hop tea before. I know I could just try it but trying to learn this method without messing. Up to bad. Lol. 🍻
It is very effective but the results will vary depending on your method and temperature. Your method should not involved splashing to avoid oxidation.
Hi David. Do you find that a hop sock or muslin bag absorbs the hop oils more vs the tea balls when dry hopping? Thanks for your advice . Cheers
Hi Vince, as long as you do not overfill then there will be no difference.
Thanks David for all your advice you are so willing to share with all of us
Thanks Vince, yes I believe that this is important.
Hi David, hop utilisation seem like a real mystery to me. Temperature and time are 2 variables that seem to impart a varying outcome, and I probably over think trying to be more precise with my results. But when brewing the Marris Otter / Citra Smash, I tried to use my taste bud to see how long it would take to extract the resins from the pellets. I used the hop spider and spoon to sample over time, but even after 30min there are still considerable flavour being extracted. The temperature I used was 80*C to begin down to 60*C. Listening to you video on hop tea compared to DRY hopping is very interesting and for the reasons why,, as I see it. I want to explore hop tea instead of dry hopping for when pressure fermenting. Just add the tea to the bottle and open the valve. No vegetal matter going into the fermenter and potentially no grassy taste. Right?
Cheers and thanks again
Michael
Yes, there are various different ways of adding bitterness, flavour and aroma. You can certainly control off flavours in various ways too.
When you use your grainfather to make whirpool hops at 80c do you run the hot liquore through the pump for 5 minutes then cool it to 80c using the heat exchange.
The best and fastest way for this step is with a spiral immersion chiller but it is possible with the GF counter flow chiller.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew got it. Would you the set a mash temp to hold at 80c
Yes, exactly:)
I have a question regarding flameout, whirlpool, and hopstand. I will shortly be making my very first brew and have been slightly confused by a lot of incompatible and not always clear information from the myriad of sources out there.
My plan is to use a low amount of bittering hop throughout the boil and adding flavour/aroma hops in the end. The setup will be quite basic.
When whirlpooling and doing a hopstand, do you start at flameout and is it important to chill as quickly from flameout to ~80C and then add your hops for the whirlpool and hopstand?
And do you then keep the temperature high or continue to cool?
How "unsafe" in regards to contaminants is it to not have a quick cooling of your wart?
If using a submersion chiller, does this disturb the whirlpool effect enough for it not to be worth the bother?
Hope some help can be found out there. :)
Hi Puk :)
Yes, hop stands start at flameout (straight after you switch off heating) and it is important to cool the wort down quickly. It is a risk not worth tempting. It is often to 80-81 but not always. This temp is held for the period of the hop stand after the hops are added. Immersion chillers are ideal for this cooling. I hope this helps :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you very much for your reply! I've been looking through a lot of your recipe and technique videos lately. My plan is to brew a not too heavy IPA style beer. The fermenter should accomodate 25L and I'm going for ABV 5.1% and IBU 53 by:
Fermentables (5.8 kg)
4.5 kg - Pale Ale 2-Row 6 EBC (77.6%)
500 g - Carahell 25.5 EBC (8.6%)
500 g - Munich Light 16 EBC (8.6%)
300 g - Rolled Oats 2.7 EBC (5.2%)
Hops (155 g)
60 min - 5 g - Magnum - 12% (6 IBU)
15 min - 20 g - Amarillo - 9.2% (11 IBU)
15 min - 20 g - Simcoe - 13% (15 IBU)
Hop Stand
30 min hopstand @ 80 °C
30 min - 50 g - Centennial - 10% (9 IBU)
30 min - 30 g - Amarillo - 9.2% (5 IBU)
30 min - 30 g - Simcoe - 13% (7 IBU)
Yeast
1 pkg - Fermentis SafAle English Ale S-04
I'm assuming I just need to start cooling at flameout until I reach about 80 °C, add the hops and whirlpool and then steep for the duration before turning cooling on again until the temperature is ~19 °C.
I've been reading, that a secondary fermentation is not necessary, when you don't want to clear your beer. Could I just transfer to bottles directly after first fermentation or would you advise a racking?
So far, I am still in the novice stage as I have been brewing less than 2 years. I have only hopped my beer in the boil.
I am considering dry hopping a malty beer because I don't care for the flavor of malt with very little hop flavor.
Hi Gary. That's the thing with homebrew, you can tweak it to your own taste. Dry hopping will for sure brighten things up.
Hi David. I'm just planning my latest brew to highlight Ahtanum hops...
Was planning 20g Centennial(9%) for 60,then Ahtanum at 20(10g) 10(40g) flameout(25g) and 25g dry hop ,but after your comments on low alphas ( these are 3.8%) thinking of ditching the dry hop ?
Should I just put these on the flame out or elsewhere in the boil ?
Flame out would be a better option yes :)
David Heath, Thanks looking forward to brew day .....😎🍻
Could you tell me how to know how much hops to add to one gallon smash beers? Im not using a brewing calculator yet. Im interested in Belgian pale ale styles of single hop beers. My next project is using jarrylo hops, and im not sure how much to use, so any help would be appreciated.
Take a look at my smash beer video, that will guide you:- th-cam.com/video/MDTanZJc3KE/w-d-xo.html
Great video David. Just one question regarding first wort hopping in the Grainfather. How would you get the hops into the wort with the grain basket in the way?
Thanks. The fast easy way is to lift the grain basket with one hand and add the hops with the other. You can try feeding the hops through the gap but its slow and usually means hops on the floor when you get impatient and rush it. Nothing to stop you removing the grain basket totally, adding the hops and then replacing it. Put it into a fermentation bucket whilst off and pour back any wort afterwards. Just be fast, you do not want that grainbed to run dry.
thx!
Glad you enjoyed it Yanik :)
David, I'm brewing an IPA and I really want a strong orange aroma and flavor. Currently I plan on using citra for bittering then amarillo at flame out, amarillo at peak fermentation, followed by another addition of amarillo day 5 or 7 of fermentation. I am considering using sweet orange peel also. I would greatly appreciate your input. Thank you.🍻
If you really want to focus on orange then other hops would include cascade and summit but bitter and sweet orange peel will contribute more. If you add orange peel to vodka and then add this to a bottling bucket this will give the strongest level of orange. You could also use orange essence, if you can find it.
I've also noticed that you never seem to use a hops spider? I have seen you use the tea strainer with the weights in them and I assume this is a fer better way to allow everything to mix in better? Cheers :)
Hop spiders are better used for things like candy sugar really. You will need to use 10% more hops and stir it. The tea strainer is more about filtering and an early alarm system for a problem with too fine a graincrush.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you :)
A valuable video as always - quick question........I'm about to do my first dry hop, following the Brewdog Punk IPA recipe which calls for 6 different hops (200g in total) to dry hop for up to 5 days. I watched your other hop video showing the tea infusers which I will get hold of but is there an issue with putting all 6 hops in the same infuser - or a smallest number which will adequately hold everything (with some extra room allowed)? Cheers.
Great to hear, thank you. No problem in mixing dry hops. Just be careful to not fill the tea strainers past 50% as they will expand after being added. Hope this helps
Hey David, re/ 7:53 --> how would you go about combining a "30 minute hop stand" with the best practice to run the 100° C wort through the Grainfather counterflow chiller in order to sanitize it.
I'm asking as I was brewing today and ended up with this situation: for the first time I had wanted to add a "hop stand"-hops and as the boiling phase was over I sprinkled the hops into the hopper. As I then stood in front of the setup I noticed the temperature starting to drop and decided to cut out the hop stand in favor of properly sanitizing the counterflow chiller. Any idea/advice on this? Thx!!
Hey :) By running boiling hot wort through the CFC you are sanitising it effectively. It will withstand some waiting time afterwards :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thx so much for your answer! So you're saying:
- finish the boiling cycle
- connect the chiller, start the pump, and run the wort through it to sanitize keeping the heater turned on to maintain boiling temps
- then stop the pump and turn off the heater and start the hop stand
- after finishing the hop stand turn on the pump again and begin the cooling process
Well, yeah, now that it's all laid out like this it's simple and makes sense :D
Thx again!
Yes, though you can do this step at any point during the boil to suit you. I tend to do it when most convenient.
Great Video as always! Those leggings made me "hoppy" but it's doubtful she drinks a lot of beer with a body like that.
Do you usually wait 30-60 minutes before cooling the wort with flameout hop additions? I personally have never, I usually start cooling right after flame out and keep the hops in there during the cooling faze which usually takes 30-40 minutes. Also, the last comment "when using a hop spider" is that only in regards to frozen hops? *cheers
Yes, I think you are right...unless shes into cardio :) I usually wait 15 minutes afterwhirlpooling. This gives reasonable steeping time and also enough time to seperate the wort from the trub. The hop spider advice is for any hop. Its standard stuff.
My lager had a sweet apple taste/aroma, can I add hops to the keg to make it more bitter or boil them up and pour the filtered liquid into keg?
How old is it? It could be where it needs more time.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew its been in keg for just over a week, I think maybe I didnt leave it fermenting long enough? Kit said 6 days but maybe needed longer?
@TheAmateursOriginalMusic This could improve but do know that it is vital to take a final gravity reading to judge a beer being finished. I look for 3 days to go past at the same reading to call it over. Do you have a hydrometer?
@@DavidHeathHomebrew yeah, I dropped it!🤦♂️🤣
Cheers mate👍
@TheAmateursOriginalMusic ahh ok. Well worth having 2 just in case 🍻😎
I've just been putting a hopsock in there, will try the hop tea in the next brew to try it out :)
My ipa's get snowglobe syndrome in their second week of carbonation, looks like protein to me, flavour is super. But i have to idea where it;s coming from. Any idea's?
O, and i made your bohemian pilsner last week. on point on every thing apart from fermentation. My Glycol chiller died the next morning :( So it has been fermenting at room temp for a week. Have'nt thrown it out yet, but im sure it's not going to taste like a pilsener :(
I am a big fan of hop tea :) That snowglobe effect is nothing to worry about. It is probably a yeast characteristic/ protein. Sorry to hear about your glycol chiller. Give the beer a taste, many lager yeasts are less fussy and it could well be drinkable. Fingers crossed for you :)
David Heath yeah I hope it's drinkable. Would be fun to do a taste comparison against a lagered version. I have a new chiller now that currently is chilling water until my trust issues are over. :)
Thanks this video was particularity helpful tonight as I'm looking at trying a recipe (Warsteiner my favourite beer)from the Grainfather site for the first time and was having difficulty matching the hops requirement with my local brew store as they have the same name but different AA values. I've looked at the GF site but the calculators section doesn't seem to cover this. Is there an easy way to calculate the additional hops required to meet the target AA requirements? Cheers :)
Is there a calculator you could recommend to work out AA differences? thanks
🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, I am about to do my first brew with Grainfather mash tun / hop boiler, I have a sparge water heater and two conical fermenters with glycol chiller. The last home brew that I did was way back in the early '80's using Dave lines Brewing Beers
Like Those You Buy recipes, and a brewheat boiler. The process that I was used to included adding Irish Moss at the hop boil, followed by primary and secondary fermentations, at the secondary fermentation Gelatine was added. Are these additives and two fermentation stages still necessary? And where can I buy those leggings, are they on the Grainfather web site?
Hey Eve, The irish moss is still used but most people skip secondary these days unless its a high alcohol beer for conditioning or secondary for fruit additions. With a conical you can simply dump the trub and add fruit. Carboys are still great for conditioning beers over long periods. These leggings can be found here :- beerbreathco.com/products/hops-leggings
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all and helping me out of the dark ages into more modern methods! But what about gelatine for Finings? if so when do I add it into the conical fermenter, or do I add it into the polypin after fermentation? Or isn't there a need to do this anymore with using modern eqt?
Things haven’t changed hugely really. The main changes are the equipment quality for the price. I use gelatine still. I add in the day before bottling to the conical fermenter at temps of 10-21 deg c for the best effect. Some like to cold crash for 1-3 days these days. I would suggest trying both and see what you prefer. You can bottle directly from the conical fermenter. Happy brewing :)
Thanks David, now perhaps I can stop pestering you with my inane questions!
Keep the questions coming Eve, I am always happy to help :)
Beautiful video again :)
One question, David, does it make any sense or have you ever used as an experiment a hop addition in a different way to bring bitterness in a malty beer? i.e. for a london bitter style have you experienced different additions of hops to provide aroma and flavor apart from the addition to give bitterness?
Another example: imagine you have a recipe for the famous london pride (which I recently developed, being really good). Have you imagined adding hops traditionally used as bitterness as hoptea or late aditions? and aromatic hops traditionally used to provide aroma and flavor i.e "hallertauer hoptea"?
I know it may seem like a "sacrilege" according to the "established norms" but my imagination is great :)
Regards!!
Hey Fernando, Yes ive tried all sorts of mix ups! The grain bill of a London pride is very flexible. Bittering hops come in so many types but some are multi purpose and can be used which ever way you wish. Hallertau hops work well for a dry up, as long as its short and in small numbers. Ek goldings are the same.
David Heath Nice to hear it. And any example you liked and results in an interesting improvement? Will try some “fool & cool experiments”...trying not to explode with my kitchen haha.
Cheers!
(perhaps in a future video?) 😉
I wouldn’t say improve, just change. Less malty beers benefit much more in my opinion. Golden ales being the ones I play around with the most. See my hoppy summer ale video :)
Ok thank you
what is the problem to not use hops in the main boil lapse? (6:45 ). My english is not good enough to hear clearly this part 😅
This is mentioning about controlling boilovers without hops in the boil until the later stages.
What are your views on the hop rocket
I haven’t bought one, so its hard to fully judge. I have used hop backs in commercial brewing and they work well.
5:07 you know, going by your voice I wouldn't have expected you to look this dashing. But I should have known better. The hops-leggings at the beginning of the clip were a dead give away. :D
Haha, thank you :P
Subtitles intro: three beer it’s good fire (music) tea Nanna lie down. lol, I like to sing “ I am gonna drink beer till I need to lie down”. Not the actual lyrics to the intro. :)
Haha ok :)
Boy, you do sound like Chain Bear in F1
Haha ok, well we are both British.
What are your top 3 favorite hops that you use?
Hi Daniel, this really depends on the style of beer, what styles interest you?
I love the Hazy beers, AKA NEIPA's. the reason i asked for your favorite hops is because I am planning to grow a couple of varieties of hops next spring. just want our insight. I should of asked, if you were going to grow hops what variety would you grow. LOL
I would go with citra, mosiac, amarillo, simcoe, galaxy in no particular order :)
Thank you. I really appreciate this.
Anytime :)
I had tasted hop chinnok 12,8%AA and sorachi ace 9,5%AA. And sorachi is much bitter then chinnok.?????? Why?????
Was this with a beer? If so the then hops bitterness is just one part of the balance. Check my video here:- th-cam.com/video/TJu7rRCpz1Q/w-d-xo.html
I'm a 29 year old bearded man and I want those leggings for myself...
Haha, I do not blame you :)
Scott and you probably would look great in those leggings!
At first I thought you were wearing them, David ...
In a second moment, too.
HOPMAN ?? hahaha
Haha!! :)
They would make a great pair of long johns at least
Wtf is a gram? I live in America.
Worth looking into seeing as the rest of the world use the metric system :) I include imperial measurements also though.