B420LD Episode 2 - 1972 Honda CB350 Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- This video goes through the teardown, repair and rebuild of a 1972 Honda CB350 Super Sport. It also includes a riding view of the annual Barber Vintage Fest attractions. This Honda has been my main "go to" bike for this event for 10 years since the rebuild.
@B420LDprojects
This era of Honda motorcycles is one of my favorites.
I agree. This is my main go-to bike for short trips. It will be going through a redo in a year or so. This time with new chrome and ending overhaul.
Nice. I had a 250 version rattle-canned metallic blue in the early to mid '80s, keeping the black styling stripes. But I'm in the UK. Bikes with this style of tank were only ever green, this red colour or gold as sold here. Never seen one with a plastic headlamp bowl, ours were all steel and exactly the same as CB175/200s. Put a lot of miles on mine over many years, starting off as one of Maggie's millions (unemployed people in the Thatcher years. No shame as there were a lot of us). Clock now says 98k miles - yes I still have it laid up waiting for my retirement. Ran when parked but superceded by a GPz550 Kwak.
Ticking top end may be the wearing faces of the rockers going through the hard chrome. These motors last well if oil changes are done religiously and the centrifugal oil filter is regularly cleaned out. Ignore at your peril, the oil feed to the top end gets occluded, cam followers and lobes wear and the cam bearings in the replaceable housings wear. Over here it was such a common problem that a firm called Joy Engineering did a roller bearing cam bearing conversion using your bearing housing and cam by exchange, which solved the problem cheaper than all-new Honda bits, if you'd learned about oil changes and the filter. Later bikes (G5 and CJ series) had cams running directly in the head, which suffered the same issues for the same cause but worse/faster.
Cam chains wear at high mileages, but you can slow the wear down by taking some of the slack out of them. The 'automatic' tensioner has a spring that it a bit weak. Take off the auto tensioner. Drill and tap a small port in the rear to access the tensioner plunger. Put it back on and tension as in the manual. Start the bike and run until warm. Remove your new plug with the engine at tickover. Put a screwdriver in the port, slacken the clamp screw and locknut and push gently until the chain rattle just goes away. Don't overdo it. Lock the adjuster, replace your port screw and you're good. Worth doing as I've stripped dozens of these when I worked for a bike breaker and erosion in the cam chain tunnel from a flapping cam chain was common and sometimes severe. Hope this rabbiting was useful to someone.
Thanks for the great response. This information is awesome. I will use it for reference later, no doubt. I hope you have time to restore your 250 when retirement time comes. But keep in mind that once retired, people tend to be busier than ever. Thanks again
I've definitely been down that road to Barber before.
Yes. I call it "Disney World for Motorcycle Enthusiasts" Love going there every year.
prison mike is that you.....nice bike man!
Thanks for the comment. However, I am not Prison Mike.