Installing a Sliding Barn Door Without a Header
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- Studs around a doorway almost never line up on a 16-inch center. Using a header board is more expensive, time-consuming, and not as safe as mounting directly to each stud.
The Freedom Clamp is a new technology for mounting sliding doors that does just that. You can skip the surface mount header board and use one of our hardware kits.
Hardware Kits available at neaternest.com...
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No click bait. Good job and helpful if a little quick. Thanks
Thanks Don! We also have a comprehensive installation booklet to go along with this and other videos so installation goes smoothly. Plus we are here if you ever need any help.
Thank you for being right to the point.😎🛠️
Always!
This is dope 👍🏽
So if I don’t want to use a header board. I can use the existing studs that are there if the wholes line up ?
Yes, if you bought a kit with holes drilled already and they magically line up with your studs then consider yourself lucky.
What’s floor gap? It says height plus floor gap. Is that up to me?
Yes. Typically the floor gap is between 1/2” and 1-inch. If there is carpet, you don’t want it too close because of moisture. And in general you want to allow for any house movement or sometimes floors are not level so you may have a small gap on one side and larger on the other.
@@NeaterNest I have tile. You think 1/2 would be good? I’m about to install the clamps I received from you.
Yes, I think 1/2 is good for tile.
@@NeaterNest thanks!
@@NeaterNest what about if you have carpet now but plan to replace with composite wood later?
You just sell the freedom clamps and they will work universally with the rail and hardware that I purchased with my door?
We do sell the Freedom Clamps separate. I wouldn’t say they are universal but they do work with most standard tracks on the market that come with round spacers.
We have special instructions for installing them with a 3rd party kit. The one major change are the holes drilled in the door. Freedom Clamps require a little extra space between the door and the track. If you have a door that was pre-drilled for another system then the holes will need to be filled and re-drilled to work with our brackets. So just be aware of that.
Great video. You mentioned a video for installing the rollers. I can't find that video. I will be buying your system soon. But, I only have 11 inches above my door opening to the ceiling, will this system work?
Yes! 11 inches is plenty. You only need 6. The instructions come with links to the videos. I’ll make sure to update the website with more videos in the FAQ and spec section.
Is there a double rail configuration possible?
We currently don’t have anything for sale to do a double rail. But we do have a design in the works. I’d be happy to discuss this further with you if you contact Neater Nest. Ask for Eric and reference this conversation. We can talk about your needs and see if we can come up with a solution for you.
❤❤❤
So you just use the exiting studs ??
Yep! Locate the studs and you should have 1 every 16-24 inches or so.
Why 1 9/16 ??? Strictly for freedom Clamp??
Yes, that’s just for freedom clamp. It’s a process we came up with because people wanted to use their own rollers and with different sizes, we needed a 1 size fits all, so that method works.
I hope your doorway has a header 😂
😂 haha. Right? It’s funny because I was always having a hard time figuring out what to call it. “External blocking”?
Header board seemed to be the most commonly used description amongst DIYers.
Quit with the click bait ...Video says install with no header.... Video starts..... Doorway has huge header 🙄...
Um, sorry that’s not a header that’s a shadow. I don’t do click bait. If you actually watch the video you will see this mounting system does not require a surface mounted header board. Would love to help you with your install. I guarantee my hardware is superior to anything out there. 😉
what header that is sheetrock and paint a header is a long board above the door hole the wheel track bolts to if the studs do not line up with the bolt holes in the track
You did not listen, the brackets were designed to be installed on existing studs
Nice stuff. I blocked during framing for barn doors.
That’s always good. But I ran into a problem the other day on a job. Blocking was installed but the wall was not plumb. The bottom plate was kicked out so far that the door was dragging.
Freedom Clamps to the rescue. I added the extenders to the back and that shimmed out the track enough to keep the door from dragging.
@@NeaterNest caulk and paint make a framer what he ain’t