Finally a guy that know how to make video here at youtube. Informtive and no talk about everything else like the weather and no calling for Aries (like ææææ--æææ--æ--ææ-æ) There is some background sound and interefence but all thoe a very clean and very good planed work troue of the matter. All credit to U !!!!!!!!
Outstanding lesson, thank you for sharing your knowledge. The thoroughness of your lecture creates a desire to learn even more on the subject matter. Thank you.
Thank you again for your wonderful videos. You teach timeless lessons of working steel in a very easily understood way. BTW, The music is.... excellent!. No doubt!
You make so many great videos! It's really a wonderful resource for people to learn -- you explain clearly and deal with the real world when showing how to do things.
Very much informative. Direct talking professionally. Thank you Marc Lecuyer for extra excellent presentation i learn a lot about Hardening, Tempering & Annealing a high carbon steel.
Genius! Thank you so much, I believe you have taught me all I need to know in order to heat treat metal properly-I have tried and failed a few times in the past because I was never too sure about temperatures and the precise colours to look for. I'll have another go now!
Deadpan, that's what that is, deadpan! Thanks, really interesting and helpful stuff. I learn better with a smile on my face. Love the song, sounds like me.
Thanks for including normalizing. (It's not all about home gamers making knives.) And for the in-depth plus hands-on tutorial. It makes me feel ready to do it.
...watched this after the first video. Very practical and clear description, also the oxy/acetylene refresher was valuable as it's been 40 years since I used one at school. Thank you.
Excellent coverage. You do a fantastic job presenting material. I just found your channel,and I look forward to watching your other videos. Thank you very much!
How to properly open the tank valves: For the oxygen, first turn the tank so the regulators are not pointed toward your body. There have been cases in which the sudden increase in pressure has blown out a regulator, peppering the operator with its pieces. Next, SLOWLY crack the main valve. After the gauge reads full pressure, unscrew the knob all the way to the top. That's to make sure the upper gasket seals completely. Otherwise, it can leak gas. For the acetylene, open the valve about a quarter turn. That's so you can quickly shut it off, if you experience a flash-back in the hose. This procedure is described in any good book on gas welding.
I've been trying to figure out this heat treatment thing for quite some time. After watching part one and two, now I get it! Thanks for your detailed explanation. The comparison to water's latent heat of vaporization and the wall chart worked for me. Thanks for sharing this information!
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Finnegan Dylan thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
WOW, what a lesson, thank you Marc. I wanted to learn about heat treating and I sure did get a lot out of your videos. I need to watch it a few more times for things to sink in. Do you think small-scale heat treating is practical for a small start-up product manufacturing business? Parts will be CNC machined (not sure what steel yet) for 1 small gear type approx .375 di, and a latch arm part that is about .5 long x .2 thick? OR am I better off sourcing the parts to a shop that is set up for this type of work.
It appears that you are using a Rosebud for heating. It will do a much better job for heating objects like this. Excellent video. BTW I always enjoy that JFK clip at the end.
Hi Marc in the forge when making tools I determine critical temp with a magnet when the steel loses magnetism I quench it. Then use tempil sticks to reach tempering temps. A quick and dirty way suitable for the kinds of things I make. Thanks for the theory-Great video!
As a newcomer to this, im really interested in that idea as it seems only an expert eye can find that perfect hue with dependable regularity. and i'm not real stoked about the idea of annealing every other part I wind up screwing up haha
Hi Markc.... you do an excellent job, I has been learning a lot seen your videos... and well I had a question for you... I would like work with stainless steel 304, and I want yo know if I had to normalize it before machine it, to make it on a easy way... and if once it was machined, I can hardened and tampered it... like you do on your videos... thanks so much... and a hug in the distance... pd I am from Colombia in south America! ;)
I can't say bout the fun to work with part, but I do like to sing when I am at a machine. I am guessing that that can get a little irritating since I sing about as well as my brother Dr. Michel L'Ecuyer (the successful son) sings the little monkey song. Pretty scary stuff! Here is a link to the Little monkey song if you haven't seen it already. Merry X-mass, Marc L'Ecuyer th-cam.com/video/cizbhtbmv5I/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for that wealth of information Marc! Back in high school (45 years ago) we case hardened hammers in water I don't remember what steel was used.this left the shades of blues, that I don't see after the steel is emerged in water.For the last year I have been making knives from 1084 steel so that I can harden at home in canola oil.All that I have learned is from youtube and no one seems to recommend a water quench. Is this because of the blade shape and warping? Thank you Joel
Water heats faster, and you can get bubbles forming along the side of the blade very rapidly, which can potentially cause warping, as the bubble is a lower pressure than the surrounding water. Also, there is the potential for cracks, due to too rapid cooling. The oil dumps the heat away more slowly, and though it boils around the blade, it has less risk of warping as well. Brine has a higher boiling point, so that helps.
Different steels require different mediums. There is water hardening, oil hardening and air hardening steel. Using the wrong medium results in an improper hardening. I didn’t see the first part, so I don’t know if he discussed that. But just look up those types of steel.
So admire with your videos really i need your advice about this tow questions: I had made my own bowie knife from straight old leaf spring with my grinder only and it is oky my question is do you think i have to do heat trearment and quench and temper in spite of i didnot any heat treatment befor to it because it was straight i mean is it necessary 2 : if i heat another curve leaf sping until i got tow red spot on it then i hammered it to make it straight and after make bowie knife in this case do you think i have to do the three stages (heat treatment&quench&temper)waiting your answer Tkank you so much
Love your lessons - very informative. Question: Can a part be tempered after it has fallen to room temperature after quenching? Or must it be done immediately after quenching and without letting the part get below tempering temp?
Hi Marc, Thanks for this very well made and well explained video. Know you made this video a few years ago have only seen it now. I have been wanting to make a Shrinker stretcher for sheet metalwork for some time. Now that ive got a mill, things are coming together. One of the problems i would face is hardening and tempering the jaws and this video has given me some insight on how to. My question is, and maybe i missed something or you have done another video on this that i haven't seen, what steel would be appropriate to machine in the home workshop that can be hardened? All the best and thanks for doing these video. Keep it up Regards
It depends a lot on how hard versus how tough you need the steel to be. For toughness and deep penetration with a reasonable (45 Rc) hardness I would go with a medium carbon alloy (oil quenching) steel such as 4140. For major hardness (60 Rc +) and wear resistance I would tend toward a O1 (oil quenching #1, tool steel). Here are a few videos that might help you in your quest, th-cam.com/video/I9Ukt7y23wc/w-d-xo.html and maybe th-cam.com/video/a9uqc9NVNMg/w-d-xo.html I have in all at this time 9 videos specifically about materials, you can link to all of them through my website THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM You can find them easily on page two of the site, they have red frames and mostly red lettering. I hope this helps? Thanks for watching, Marc
Sir, Thank you much for the video series. It was quite helpful, and not at all lazy, at least I would say. One thing I am confused on. It seems to me that quenching skips the normal cooldown phase and keeps it's austenite(?) properties. But that would mean that steel is hardest when it is dark orange. Due to blacksmithing, I know this can't be true. If you would please explain that would be appreciated.
Hi! I am very sorry for the long delay in answering. Iron is an element, meaning that it is pure. A chunk of Iron contains only Iron. If I heat iron up to orange and then cool it (quickly of slowly) I will have the same iron that I had at the beginning. No harder, no softer. Steel is not iron. Steel is a mix of Iron and Carbon plus sometimes (but not necessarily) other elements. When steel is heated, the alignment of the carbon and iron atoms change. this realignment takes both time and energy. If you can cool something faster than the time it takes to reorganize its atoms, you can paly a trick on nature and get a material that is the same in composition (iron and Carbon) but different in properties. All types of metals are different, it just happens that steel can do this. I hope this helps and again, sorry for the delay. Marc L'Ecuyer THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM
Why does this guy only have 29K total subs? The Machinist videos are to the point and this guy really knows his trade and is very good at teaching it as well. He has a good bit of machinist content on his channel. Just wondering!
Hi Troy! I would love to have the silver 100,000 thousand subscribers plaque but since my videos are more directed towards beginner machinists, they are more about basic info and not so much about entertaining and since my production quality (I am not very good with lighting and sound) isn't great a lot of people that happen on one of my videos don't stay with it long enough to realize that the content could be interesting. I do know, thanks to comments such as yours, that my videos are helping a lot of people and that is the objective. For me it is all about sharing. I will mention that I also have 7,000 subscribers on my French (I am French Canadian) TH-cam channel so the total is 36,000. If you don't already know, you can find links to all my videos (even the jokes) on my free bilingual website THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM Thanks for taking the time to comment and for letting me know that the videos are helping, Marc
I have used oxyacetalyne torches for over 20 years. I have lit it probably 100s of thousands of times with a lighter over that time. I would say if you have never touched a set of torches not too, or mabe at least use a grill lighter. I have never turned my regulators to zero in that time as well. I would like to know what percentage of you turn the regulators every time u turn the torch off. I used to get pissed when some one in the shop even changed my setting. Yeah just wondering about that who resets their regulators every time.
Thank you for this great video series. You clear me many doubts i had about this topic. I see you perform the heat treatment with no eye protection. It is not dangerous to do this in this way? It is posible to do it with oxy-acethylene welding golges? I've seen people that make their heat treatment using a magnet. When the piece to be hardened is no longer atracted by the magnet is the moment when they do the "quenching".
Oxygen tanks can be safely used on their side as there's no liquid, it'd probably be easier to accidentally knock the regulator around though but that's the only danger with an o2 tank on it's side
It's all about the speed of cooling. Some liquids cool the steel faster, some (like quenching oil) cool slower. Oddly water can be used two ways, total immersion (wich is a solid to liquid heat transfer) and by evaporation which uses energy transferred to pass the water to steam. With immersion the colder the water the faster the cooling, with the evaporation, the water temp won't be that important. Many sword making videos I have seen seem to use the dip and evaporate method. Except for when sharpening tools on the grinder, I prefer immersion because it cools the part more evenly causing less deformation. Remember, the evaporation technique is reserved for water only, most other liquids tend to explode!!! Please excuse the quality of my English. Marc L'Ecuyer THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM
If you can control the temperature very very well, and leave the parts in the oven for several hours at the precise temperature, you can create a good thickness of carbides on the surface which then can be sealed in a hot oil bath. This makes for a tough durable and attractive finish. I am however not a gun smith and do not know much about guns. Perhaps, since this comment is public, someone out there could help out with a gun specific answer? thanks for the great question and thanks for watching, Marc L'Ecuyer
+EraserFace The way I understand the process of gun blueing is a chemical process not heat. I am not a gunsmith but have seen presentations on utube and instructions in articles. I probably have now opened a big can of worms. Sorry.
Very nice videos! Profennonally and competently made with good advice given! I can use the first for a bit of practical examples for my material sciences exam naxt week and the second part i might get to use for some unproffessional smithing on my part :) Only small criticism is the background noise in your workshop. Oh and of course as a german, the Fahrenheit system annoys the crab out of me^^ But I cant really critisize that, taken that other people will feel the other way around.
+Robin Hi robin, it is all for fun and I am working to get the sound under control. I am learning to produce videos as I go so all I can hope for is that it will get better. We use Celsius here now but I was raised back when things where in Fahrenheit and at my age it is hard to get used to the other scale. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, Marc
You seem to know your stuff, and I basically don't know much about this. But did you say to turn off acetylene before oxygen?? Are you sure about that? I in my limited knowledge in the subject thought it was the other way around, turn of the oxygen first, then acetylene..
Hi! When I was an apprentice the rule was A before o or you GO! I must admit that I have read and heard the contrary many times as well. Can anyone out there give us a hand in figuring this out?
I have a question, a machinist friend of mine said that heat treating has to be done in a controlled atmosphere with no oxygen. He said oxygen will attack the part and draw out carbon thus weakening the part, or that's at least what I remember.
I figured as much.. I'm no expert... And I was wondering if it was accurate. Parts Id be working on would be sheet metal gun parts. Ill have to do more research before I dive of into it.
The steel is 4130 carbon steel. It saves me very little money to heat treat parts myself instead of buying them complete. It would only come in handy for a custom job. Unfortunately, farming out heat treating would cost too much for every part. Thank you for the insight!
Plain carbon steels (no other alloy except carbon) must always be quenched in water. Only alloy steels that have been alloyed to increase their "quenchability" can be quenched in oil, because they require a smaller thermal shock. So the simple answer is that the steel you choose determines the type of quenching medium. Marc L'Ecuyer
Actually his idea of using the wood stove (outdoor preferably) gave me a brain blurb for the annealing process at a lower temperature. I can see where the spouse would frown on the stove concept so how about a grill that has been brought up to the 500-degree range...??? Of course it could be sitting close to the outdoor stove to make the process more efficient and cook those brats/burgers when this venture makes the ole tummy growl.
Dam, this place looks like a regional jail in the arctic somewere. A few pictures on the walls would cut down on the echo and add some warmth that those heaters and stoves are not producing.the environment is cold, cold in a post apocalyptic sort of way, sorry guys its just depressing to watch...
Thanks Marc, for the informative video. I am a hobbyist working with wood and metals. I have watched your other videos too. The way you explain and demonstrate is quite helpful to get a good understanding of the subject. You are a great teacher. However, I need to point out one thing. The music in the beginning of the video and at the end is unpleasant, disturbing and inappropriate. The value of your video will improve if you get rid of that "music" altogether.
+David Kassin Hi David, it is good to always remind people about safety. I believe that all your points (except for the safety glasses) are valid when welding or when using very hot equipment. However in this video I am not melting or welding, just heating up a small and easily manipulated piece of tool steel to well below its melting point (about 800 degrees less). All the lenses of my many pairs of glasses are made of tempered shock resistant glass approved for use in shops. As these details could be lost on a novice machinist and the fact that I did not specifically mention them in the video I find it timely and very good that you remind us all of the importance of safety in the shop. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to share, Marc
If you think this video is difficult to listen to you should try it in French th-cam.com/video/NvOWUeGJyrg/w-d-xo.html . All jokes aside, it is one of my older videos that I haven't redon yet and at that time I wasn't very good at recording the video and audio for my lessons (we all start somewhere). Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, Marc (the guy).
While he obviously knows a lot, and speaks it well, his movements, herky jerky as they are, and his speech patterns are robotic, and irksome. It gets in the way that a smoother flow wouldn’t. Perhaps he should take a lesson on public speaking.
He has never had a problem with public speaking but he had very little experience in video production when he produced this video. The more recent ones are (I think ) much better. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, He (Marc). P.S. as an example, here is a link to a recent production th-cam.com/video/RwI7pjJ6ACM/w-d-xo.html
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Finally a guy that know how to make video here at youtube. Informtive and no talk about everything else like the weather and no calling for Aries (like ææææ--æææ--æ--ææ-æ) There is some background sound and interefence but all thoe a very clean and very good planed work troue of the matter. All credit to U !!!!!!!!
This is the best video about heat treatment that I've seen so far. Thanks for the info and being especially informative.
I'm glad I watched this video first. I need not search anymore.
Great video.
Outstanding lesson, thank you for sharing your knowledge. The thoroughness of your lecture creates a desire to learn even more on the subject matter. Thank you.
Thank you again for your wonderful videos. You teach timeless lessons of working steel in a very easily understood way. BTW, The music is.... excellent!. No doubt!
You make so many great videos! It's really a wonderful resource for people to learn -- you explain clearly and deal with the real world when showing how to do things.
Very much informative. Direct talking professionally. Thank you Marc Lecuyer for extra excellent presentation i learn a lot about Hardening, Tempering & Annealing a high carbon steel.
one of the best heat treatment vids on steel on you tube.
Genius! Thank you so much, I believe you have taught me all I need to know in order to heat treat metal properly-I have tried and failed a few times in the past because I was never too sure about temperatures and the precise colours to look for. I'll have another go now!
Man, your are extraordinarily clear. You chose the right pieces of information, got them properly organized, and delivered the material nicely.
Deadpan, that's what that is, deadpan! Thanks, really interesting and helpful stuff. I learn better with a smile on my face. Love the song, sounds like me.
Thank you, just watched 1 & 2. Very informative and I appreciate your time.
Many thanks Marc for sharing your knowledge with others - very informative and helpful video !
Thanks for including normalizing. (It's not all about home gamers making knives.) And for the in-depth plus hands-on tutorial. It makes me feel ready to do it.
Best heat treatment video on TH-cam
...watched this after the first video. Very practical and clear description, also the oxy/acetylene refresher was valuable as it's been 40 years since I used one at school. Thank you.
I am learning a lot with your videos. You are incredible. Thanks for all your Work!
Great presentation well done.
Excellent video excellently explained and answered many questions
Stay safe
John Baker
This was a very informative video and I can use it at work for many things. Glad you put in on.
Just watched both of these without pause and am now trying out the annealing with some scraps in my sop. Thanks for the VERY informative videos!
Soooo.... This is what education and intelligence looks like in a youtube video! THANKS!
Watched part one and now part 2. Really a great show. Very informative. Thanks.
Excellent coverage. You do a fantastic job presenting material. I just found your channel,and I look forward to watching your other videos. Thank you very much!
Thank you for making heat treating so accessible for the home gamer.
The way he speaks got me to subscribe to his channel. Its very detailing 🙏🏾👍🏾
Excellent presentation. I knew the practical, now I know both the practical and the theory.
How to properly open the tank valves: For the oxygen, first turn the tank so the regulators are not pointed toward your body. There have been cases in which the sudden increase in pressure has blown out a regulator, peppering the operator with its pieces. Next, SLOWLY crack the main valve. After the gauge reads full pressure, unscrew the knob all the way to the top. That's to make sure the upper gasket seals completely. Otherwise, it can leak gas. For the acetylene, open the valve about a quarter turn. That's so you can quickly shut it off, if you experience a flash-back in the hose. This procedure is described in any good book on gas welding.
+Clyde Wary Thanks Clyde! Input is always welcome, Marc
Great video. Thanks for the lesson.
I've been trying to figure out this heat treatment thing for quite some time. After watching part one and two, now I get it! Thanks for your detailed explanation. The comparison to water's latent heat of vaporization and the wall chart worked for me. Thanks for sharing this information!
Thanks Mark Great video, well explained.
This video and its first answered all my questions about heat treatment of steel. Thank you :)
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Carlos Koa Instablaster :)
@Finnegan Dylan thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Finnegan Dylan it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
@Carlos Koa Happy to help =)
WOW, what a lesson, thank you Marc. I wanted to learn about heat treating and I sure did get a lot out of your videos. I need to watch it a few more times for things to sink in. Do you think small-scale heat treating is practical for a small start-up product manufacturing business? Parts will be CNC machined (not sure what steel yet) for 1 small gear type approx .375 di, and a latch arm part that is about .5 long x .2 thick? OR am I better off sourcing the parts to a shop that is set up for this type of work.
I like the transition effects. :) The information is great!
Nicely done sir. I watched both parts and learned allot. Thank you!
+SheriffRoscoP Thanks Rosco!
SheriffRoscoP .
It appears that you are using a Rosebud for heating. It will do a much better job for heating objects like this. Excellent video. BTW I always enjoy that JFK clip at the end.
This guy is awesome with detailed easy explanations.
Thanks oppanheimer! Marc
Hi Marc in the forge when making tools I determine critical temp with a magnet when the steel loses magnetism I quench it. Then use tempil sticks to reach tempering temps. A quick and dirty way suitable for the kinds of things I make. Thanks for the theory-Great video!
That is an excellent method Johnny, thanks for the suggestion. Marc L'Ecuyer
As a newcomer to this, im really interested in that idea as it seems only an expert eye can find that perfect hue with dependable regularity.
and i'm not real stoked about the idea of annealing every other part I wind up screwing up haha
This is such a good video matey really knows his stuff . Thanks very grateful
Very good lesson 👍, thanks a lot ☺️
Hi Markc.... you do an excellent job, I has been learning a lot seen your videos... and well I had a question for you... I would like work with stainless steel 304, and I want yo know if I had to normalize it before machine it, to make it on a easy way... and if once it was machined, I can hardened and tampered it... like you do on your videos... thanks so much... and a hug in the distance... pd I am from Colombia in south America! ;)
My God I love this kind of videos so well dam explained
GREAT VIDEO. I bet you are a fun guy to work with. Very informative.
I can't say bout the fun to work with part, but I do like to sing when I am at a machine. I am guessing that that can get a little irritating since I sing about as well as my brother Dr. Michel L'Ecuyer (the successful son) sings the little monkey song. Pretty scary stuff! Here is a link to the Little monkey song if you haven't seen it already. Merry X-mass, Marc L'Ecuyer th-cam.com/video/cizbhtbmv5I/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for that wealth of information Marc! Back in high school (45 years ago) we case hardened hammers in water I don't remember what steel was used.this left the shades of blues, that I don't see after the steel is emerged in water.For the last year I have been making knives from 1084 steel so that I can harden at home in canola oil.All that I have learned is from youtube and no one seems to recommend a water quench. Is this because of the blade shape and warping? Thank you Joel
joel stark I am also curious on the difference between oil and water quenching and when to or not to use either one...
I thought they used some kind of brine solution....
Water heats faster, and you can get bubbles forming along the side of the blade very rapidly, which can potentially cause warping, as the bubble is a lower pressure than the surrounding water. Also, there is the potential for cracks, due to too rapid cooling. The oil dumps the heat away more slowly, and though it boils around the blade, it has less risk of warping as well. Brine has a higher boiling point, so that helps.
Different steels require different mediums. There is water hardening, oil hardening and air hardening steel. Using the wrong medium results in an improper hardening. I didn’t see the first part, so I don’t know if he discussed that. But just look up those types of steel.
Great video, thanks! Why do you sometimes quench in oil and sometimes in water?
Thanks for the great info.
Very thorough.
Great job of explaining, I actually understabd now.
Excelente!!!
So admire with your videos really i need your advice about this tow questions:
I had made my own bowie knife from straight old leaf spring with my grinder only and it is oky my question is do you think i have to do heat trearment and quench and temper in spite of i didnot any heat treatment befor to it because it was straight i mean is it necessary
2 : if i heat another curve leaf sping until i got tow red spot on it then i hammered it to make it straight and after make bowie knife in this case do you think i have to do the three stages (heat treatment&quench&temper)waiting your answer
Tkank you so much
Love your lessons - very informative. Question: Can a part be tempered after it has fallen to room temperature after quenching? Or must it be done immediately after quenching and without letting the part get below tempering temp?
Hi Marc,
Thanks for this very well made and well explained video. Know you made this video a few years ago have only seen it now.
I have been wanting to make a Shrinker stretcher for sheet metalwork for some time. Now that ive got a mill, things are coming together.
One of the problems i would face is hardening and tempering the jaws and this video has given me some insight on how to.
My question is, and maybe i missed something or you have done another video on this that i haven't seen, what steel would be appropriate to machine in the home workshop that can be hardened?
All the best and thanks for doing these video.
Keep it up
Regards
It depends a lot on how hard versus how tough you need the steel to be. For toughness and deep penetration with a reasonable (45 Rc) hardness I would go with a medium carbon alloy (oil quenching) steel such as 4140. For major hardness (60 Rc +) and wear resistance I would tend toward a O1 (oil quenching #1, tool steel). Here are a few videos that might help you in your quest, th-cam.com/video/I9Ukt7y23wc/w-d-xo.html
and maybe th-cam.com/video/a9uqc9NVNMg/w-d-xo.html I have in all at this time 9 videos specifically about materials, you can link to all of them through my website THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM You can find them easily on page two of the site, they have red frames and mostly red lettering. I hope this helps? Thanks for watching, Marc
Thanks a million.
I will go have a look at all you have sent.
Thanks for making the videos
All the best and keep it up
Regards,
Paul
your a funny guy and you remind me of my mom telling me to pre heat the oven lol thanks for the lesson
Sir,
Thank you much for the video series. It was quite helpful, and not at all lazy, at least I would say. One thing I am confused on. It seems to me that quenching skips the normal cooldown phase and keeps it's austenite(?) properties. But that would mean that steel is hardest when it is dark orange. Due to blacksmithing, I know this can't be true. If you would please explain that would be appreciated.
Hi! I am very sorry for the long delay in answering. Iron is an element, meaning that it is pure. A chunk of Iron contains only Iron. If I heat iron up to orange and then cool it (quickly of slowly) I will have the same iron that I had at the beginning. No harder, no softer. Steel is not iron. Steel is a mix of Iron and Carbon plus sometimes (but not necessarily) other elements. When steel is heated, the alignment of the carbon and iron atoms change. this realignment takes both time and energy. If you can cool something faster than the time it takes to reorganize its atoms, you can paly a trick on nature and get a material that is the same in composition (iron and Carbon) but different in properties. All types of metals are different, it just happens that steel can do this. I hope this helps and again, sorry for the delay. Marc L'Ecuyer THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM
Thanks! Very informative!
Why does this guy only have 29K total subs? The Machinist videos are to the point and this guy really knows his trade and is very good at teaching it as well. He has a good bit of machinist content on his channel. Just wondering!
Hi Troy! I would love to have the silver 100,000 thousand subscribers plaque but since my videos are more directed towards beginner machinists, they are more about basic info and not so much about entertaining and since my production quality (I am not very good with lighting and sound) isn't great a lot of people that happen on one of my videos don't stay with it long enough to realize that the content could be interesting. I do know, thanks to comments such as yours, that my videos are helping a lot of people and that is the objective. For me it is all about sharing. I will mention that I also have 7,000 subscribers on my French (I am French Canadian) TH-cam channel so the total is 36,000. If you don't already know, you can find links to all my videos (even the jokes) on my free bilingual website THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM Thanks for taking the time to comment and for letting me know that the videos are helping, Marc
Wish we were taught like this....
Great Video :-) Well Done
I have used oxyacetalyne torches for over 20 years. I have lit it probably 100s of thousands of times with a lighter over that time. I would say if you have never touched a set of torches not too, or mabe at least use a grill lighter. I have never turned my regulators to zero in that time as well. I would like to know what percentage of you turn the regulators every time u turn the torch off. I used to get pissed when some one in the shop even changed my setting. Yeah just wondering about that who resets their regulators every time.
Thank you for this great video series. You clear me many doubts i had about this topic. I see you perform the heat treatment with no eye protection. It is not dangerous to do this in this way? It is posible to do it with oxy-acethylene welding golges? I've seen people that make their heat treatment using a magnet. When the piece to be hardened is no longer atracted by the magnet is the moment when they do the "quenching".
Really great video! Super information for DIY, hobby, and small shop metal projects. Praise be to Allah for finding this series.
very well done! thanks marc
Can this be done on all stainless steels as well?
thank you
Richard westerfield
when he was talking about how the gauges work...he said DO NOT oil the threads on the gas connectors or bottles..that is why the ga says "use no oil"
Dear Marc, thank you very much
Lesson: 38
Oxygen tanks can be safely used on their side as there's no liquid, it'd probably be easier to accidentally knock the regulator around though but that's the only danger with an o2 tank on it's side
Organized and informative. Really pvts a face with the name. Mvch appreciated thankyov!
you remind me of peter broyle and i really appreciate the info and delivery.
Boyle.
@@MrShobar what a DICK....i try to complement you and all you got is correcting me? FU shobar ,no wonder you only have 7 subscribers.
great videos. can you comment of the temperature of the water. cold warm room temp. i remember sword makers using odd fluids.
It's all about the speed of cooling. Some liquids cool the steel faster, some (like quenching oil) cool slower. Oddly water can be used two ways, total immersion (wich is a solid to liquid heat transfer) and by evaporation which uses energy transferred to pass the water to steam. With immersion the colder the water the faster the cooling, with the evaporation, the water temp won't be that important. Many sword making videos I have seen seem to use the dip and evaporate method. Except for when sharpening tools on the grinder, I prefer immersion because it cools the part more evenly causing less deformation. Remember, the evaporation technique is reserved for water only, most other liquids tend to explode!!! Please excuse the quality of my English. Marc L'Ecuyer THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM
hello thats a good explanation i watched part 1 @ 2 beautiful. thanks for sharing your super skill,chers
Thank you.
what is the best type of steel for making tooling
A2 OR D2
When tempering and it turns the dark blue color, is this how gun blue is dune?
If you can control the temperature very very well, and leave the parts in the oven for several hours at the precise temperature, you can create a good thickness of carbides on the surface which then can be sealed in a hot oil bath. This makes for a tough durable and attractive finish. I am however not a gun smith and do not know much about guns. Perhaps, since this comment is public, someone out there could help out with a gun specific answer? thanks for the great question and thanks for watching, Marc L'Ecuyer
+MrAlittle5150 gun bluing is a controlled oxidation so no it is completely different than heat treatment. Gun blue is essentially rust.
+EraserFace The way I understand the process of gun blueing is a chemical process not heat. I am not a gunsmith but have seen presentations on utube and instructions in articles. I probably have now opened a big can of worms. Sorry.
Very nice videos! Profennonally and competently made with good advice given!
I can use the first for a bit of practical examples for my material sciences exam naxt week and the second part i might get to use for some unproffessional smithing on my part :)
Only small criticism is the background noise in your workshop.
Oh and of course as a german, the Fahrenheit system annoys the crab out of me^^ But I cant really critisize that, taken that other people will feel the other way around.
+Robin Hi robin, it is all for fun and I am working to get the sound under control. I am learning to produce videos as I go so all I can hope for is that it will get better. We use Celsius here now but I was raised back when things where in Fahrenheit and at my age it is hard to get used to the other scale. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, Marc
A vote here to stay with Fahrenheit.
no flash-back arrestors?
Used motor oil works for me.
You seem to know your stuff, and I basically don't know much about this. But did you say to turn off acetylene before oxygen?? Are you sure about that? I in my limited knowledge in the subject thought it was the other way around, turn of the oxygen first, then acetylene..
Hi! When I was an apprentice the rule was A before o or you GO! I must admit that I have read and heard the contrary many times as well. Can anyone out there give us a hand in figuring this out?
I have a question, a machinist friend of mine said that heat treating has to be done in a controlled atmosphere with no oxygen. He said oxygen will attack the part and draw out carbon thus weakening the part, or that's at least what I remember.
I figured as much.. I'm no expert... And I was wondering if it was accurate. Parts Id be working on would be sheet metal gun parts. Ill have to do more research before I dive of into it.
There's a way to do it without that im certain :P
The steel is 4130 carbon steel. It saves me very little money to heat treat parts myself instead of buying them complete. It would only come in handy for a custom job. Unfortunately, farming out heat treating would cost too much for every part. Thank you for the insight!
THATLAZYMACHINIST How about a quickie lesson on some of the more exotic treatments such as nitriding? Thanks again! Chazz
How do u decide when to use oil or use water to quench?
Plain carbon steels (no other alloy except carbon) must always be quenched in water. Only alloy steels that have been alloyed to increase their "quenchability" can be quenched in oil, because they require a smaller thermal shock. So the simple answer is that the steel you choose determines the type of quenching medium. Marc L'Ecuyer
Thanx for the response and sorry if u said that in the video but i missed it.
thank you Sir
thank you
Pretty cute trick @ about 10:30
Actually his idea of using the wood stove (outdoor preferably) gave me a brain blurb for the annealing process at a lower temperature. I can see where the spouse would frown on the stove concept so how about a grill that has been brought up to the 500-degree range...??? Of course it could be sitting close to the outdoor stove to make the process more efficient and cook those brats/burgers when this venture makes the ole tummy growl.
Decent video, but that music at the start makes me want to go full Picasso.
Do it first, then go over the safety tips, just like home.
Dam, this place looks like a regional jail in the arctic somewere. A few pictures on the walls would cut down on the echo and add some warmth that those heaters and stoves are not producing.the environment is cold, cold in a post apocalyptic sort of way, sorry guys its just depressing to watch...
Hi Matthew, depressing is what I was shooting for.
Thanks Marc, for the informative video. I am a hobbyist working with wood and metals. I have watched your other videos too. The way you explain and demonstrate is quite helpful to get a good understanding of the subject. You are a great teacher.
However, I need to point out one thing. The music in the beginning of the video and at the end is unpleasant, disturbing and inappropriate. The value of your video will improve if you get rid of that "music" altogether.
I have to agree on all accounts. Great content and info nicely presented but that "music" is annoying as Hell.
no safety shield or glasses or no gloves/apron
+David Kassin Hi David, it is good to always remind people about safety. I believe that all your points (except for the safety glasses) are valid when welding or when using very hot equipment. However in this video I am not melting or welding, just heating up a small and easily manipulated piece of tool steel to well below its melting point (about 800 degrees less). All the lenses of my many pairs of glasses are made of tempered shock resistant glass approved for use in shops. As these details could be lost on a novice machinist and the fact that I did not specifically mention them in the video I find it timely and very good that you remind us all of the importance of safety in the shop. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to share, Marc
Sorry I hit the dislike button instead of the like button my fault.
+jumjavjoe - Hit the button again and it ill revert back, then hit the like
Maybe I could watch the video, but.... the damn "guitar player " kills my ears!!!
I found the guy impossible to listen to for very long
If you think this video is difficult to listen to you should try it in French th-cam.com/video/NvOWUeGJyrg/w-d-xo.html . All jokes aside, it is one of my older videos that I haven't redon yet and at that time I wasn't very good at recording the video and audio for my lessons (we all start somewhere). Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, Marc (the guy).
Get rid of the dying dog you use for music
While he obviously knows a lot, and speaks it well, his movements, herky jerky as they are, and his speech patterns are robotic, and irksome. It gets in the way that a smoother flow wouldn’t. Perhaps he should take a lesson on public speaking.
He has never had a problem with public speaking but he had very little experience in video production when he produced this video. The more recent ones are (I think ) much better. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to write, He (Marc). P.S. as an example, here is a link to a recent production th-cam.com/video/RwI7pjJ6ACM/w-d-xo.html
Thank you