Hi Cyndi. Great video, demonstration and information. You amaze me with your creativity and skill. Keep up the fantastic work. - best regards, Larry aka the cookie man
By the way, if you want to use that curved hollowing tool and enjoy it much better put a vice grip at the bottom of the handle on the steel and use it as a grip. It will keep the tool from torquing on you which it is prone to do because it has that, extra distance from the center of the tool to the where it’s cutting. More torque exerted on your grip exponentially. I learned that trick from Captain Eddie Castellin another great teacher on here that really stresses how to turn on a budget. His health got bad and he had to quit making videos, but I believe he’s still around involved in Woodturning clubs, etc.. his videos hopefully live on forever
God bless you that you remembered anything without taking notes! I’d have to consult my notes to see if you forgot anything!🥴. Judging from your accomplishment I’d say you forgot nothing! Laugh out loud!
Yes. I didn’t learn it from him but yes. I actually learned it on my own but yes! He is the only other one I have seen that teaches that method. It works so freaking well. Again I think certain people don’t want it to be discovered but that is another issue. I’m glad what I stated made enough sense that you made that connection! Take care!
Nice video! You have unfortunately been misled by many people that sound like they know what they’re doing but the concept that a carbide cutter should only held flat on the rest and horizontal to the piece is total rubbish! It can be both tilted at an angle on the rest and presented with the handle down IF you always cut on the supported side of the tool. You must round over the bottom edges of the tool to do this so it glides over the rest but it works incredibly well! It’s hard to explain but the rule of 45 degrees applies here exactly like a bowl and spindle gouge so you can slice the wood rather than just scrape. Much smoother cuts if done correctly rivaling a bevel riding gouge cut. Richard Raffan explains the rule of 45 in his books and are a great read. Also excellent TH-cam teacher. Tomislav Tomicic (sp?) and Ray Key are both masters at teaching this subject and I highly recommend them also. Also the spindle roughing gouge should not have been used initially because it was a burl with grain running in all directions. They should only be used on straight grain wood when the grain is parallel to the axis of the lathe otherwise it is quite dangerous. Now in the hands of a master it can be used but it is presented in a completely different way using again the rule of 45 and again only cutting on the supported side of the tool. I’m a very experienced turner and wish I could train you for while so you could skip a lot of the problems you will encounter learning on your own. You are going to be great at this if you keep at it and it is worth it but I would love to pass on some basics that will accelerate your journey greatly. Enjoy your journey and welcome to the club. I applaud you for starting a TH-cam channel. That to me is a daunting prospect but I need to do it. You have a great screen presence and are easy to listen to. Good luck and keep turning!
Thank you so very much for your guidance!! It truly is appreciated! I have of course heard of Richard Raffen but have never heard of the other two you mentioned. I will definitely look into all of them. I had stopped using the spindle roughing gouge on bowls but misunderstood that even if it was shaped like a spindle it wasn’t safe. I thought it was the shape not also the type of wood. I am so happy to hear that I am able to use the carbide tools in different manners. I do find them much easier to work with. I am a complete dunce when it comes to sharpening. I have taken several lessons and just can’t seem to get the hang of it right. So the carbide tips are a god send to me until I master the grind. Thank you again for your guidance and encouragement. ❤️
I’m retired and I spend most of my free time turning. Probably averaged 4-5 hours a day for quite a while. When my back and legs allow it. Sharpening is quite challenging and so important. I have the wolverine sharpening system but it’s not completely intuitive. Big learning curve. Doug Thompson sells some of the best gouges and turning tools in the world using the best steel for turning there is. He has some great videos on why his steel is superior for turning and also has the best sharpening video I have seen. He teaches consistency. Once you have a grind angle etc that you like you stick with it and master it. So I have set my angle for about 60 with a 1 3/4” protrusion out of the wolverine jig for my bowl gouges and it will cover nearly every scenario from turning the outside, inside rim, and bowl bottoms. Then I have my detail spindle gouges setup and I stick with it. I don’t change my tool holding jig angle but adjust the distance from the cup to the wheel. I have spacer sticks cut exactly to length to set the distance to my wheel exactly with them labeled saying exactly what angle they achieve and what tool they are used on and how much tool is protruding out of the holder. So it is super easy now to sharpen and set up for multiple tools. I now normally use a 1 3/4” protrusion (Doug uses this) vs starting with a 2”. I like the wing profiles better resulting from that change. Again I don’t touch the angle on the holder jig, you can play with it but it leads to inconsistency. I don’t think I will change it the rest of my life. I have solved all my sharpening woes with this one angle so why change. Then I don’t have to rack my puny brain trying to remember what angle I use for what scenario. What I do change is the distance to the wheel. I have 3 main set up sticks that I use to set the distance from my cup to the wheel. This determines my bevel angle. Get an angle gauge and move the cup bar out trial and error until you get the exact angle you want and then make your setup stick to fit tight between the cup bar and base and label the heck out of it saying exactly what tool, what angle, what protrusion, what profile it produces etc and keep it handy. I can switch from the grinding platform to the wolverine jig and set my cup distance exactly in seconds. Set my protrusion exactly, color my bevel with sharpie ink, sharpen lightly until all the sharpie is gone at the edge and be done in a minute. When you finally get a quick easy way to sharpen traditional gouges is when you can finally use them efficiently and then you fall in love because they are so elegant in how they cut. I still use carbide, especially for roughing to round because that process dulls HSS quicker, saving my sharp gouges for good clean wood. But again I do not use my carbide tools as scrapers only I tilt them at angles and drop the handle etc and cut on only only on the supported side of the cutter to slice rather than scrape. Once you get the hang of that process, it is a game changer. A complete game changer. There are only a couple of Turners that I have seen that preach that idea and that was after I learned how to do it myself through trial and error thinking there had to be a better way, but it truly is a game changer and you will appreciate your carbide tools 1000 times more once you figure it out. I know you will and I think you are going to have so much joy come from that situation that I am actually excited for you. I like your videos I like what you do and what you stand for and just keep rolling. You are on a good journey. Take care, Scott.
Hi Cyndi. Great video, demonstration and information. You amaze me with your creativity and skill. Keep up the fantastic work. - best regards, Larry aka the cookie man
Thank you Larry. You always make me smile!❤️
👍👍
Thank you so much!!❤
By the way, if you want to use that curved hollowing tool and enjoy it much better put a vice grip at the bottom of the handle on the steel and use it as a grip. It will keep the tool from torquing on you which it is prone to do because it has that, extra distance from the center of the tool to the where it’s cutting. More torque exerted on your grip exponentially. I learned that trick from Captain Eddie Castellin another great teacher on here that really stresses how to turn on a budget. His health got bad and he had to quit making videos, but I believe he’s still around involved in Woodturning clubs, etc.. his videos hopefully live on forever
Awesome job Cyndi! Love the shape. ❤
@@vilmab5190 thank you. Was there anything I totally forgot from the symposium? I was excited it worked!
God bless you that you remembered anything without taking notes! I’d have to consult my notes to see if you forgot anything!🥴. Judging from your accomplishment I’d say you forgot nothing! Laugh out loud!
PS new subscriber
@@scottstubberud1137 thank you so much for that idea!! I NEVER would have thought of that!!❤️
Always such an interesting process Cyndi😅ijj in ķ thank you for sharing
@@LouiseMcKayArt thank you Louise ❤️
That's Glen and Liza Teagle Wood Turning.
Yes. I didn’t learn it from him but yes. I actually learned it on my own but yes! He is the only other one I have seen that teaches that method. It works so freaking well. Again I think certain people don’t want it to be discovered but that is another issue. I’m glad what I stated made enough sense that you made that connection! Take care!
Beautiful work
@@rosestern4392 thank you. Miss you!!❤️❤️❤️
Nice video! You have unfortunately been misled by many people that sound like they know what they’re doing but the concept that a carbide cutter should only held flat on the rest and horizontal to the piece is total rubbish! It can be both tilted at an angle on the rest and presented with the handle down IF you always cut on the supported side of the tool. You must round over the bottom edges of the tool to do this so it glides over the rest but it works incredibly well! It’s hard to explain but the rule of 45 degrees applies here exactly like a bowl and spindle gouge so you can slice the wood rather than just scrape. Much smoother cuts if done correctly rivaling a bevel riding gouge cut. Richard Raffan explains the rule of 45 in his books and are a great read. Also excellent TH-cam teacher. Tomislav Tomicic (sp?) and Ray Key are both masters at teaching this subject and I highly recommend them also. Also the spindle roughing gouge should not have been used initially because it was a burl with grain running in all directions. They should only be used on straight grain wood when the grain is parallel to the axis of the lathe otherwise it is quite dangerous. Now in the hands of a master it can be used but it is presented in a completely different way using again the rule of 45 and again only cutting on the supported side of the tool. I’m a very experienced turner and wish I could train you for while so you could skip a lot of the problems you will encounter learning on your own. You are going to be great at this if you keep at it and it is worth it but I would love to pass on some basics that will accelerate your journey greatly. Enjoy your journey and welcome to the club. I applaud you for starting a TH-cam channel. That to me is a daunting prospect but I need to do it. You have a great screen presence and are easy to listen to. Good luck and keep turning!
Thank you so very much for your guidance!! It truly is appreciated! I have of course heard of Richard Raffen but have never heard of the other two you mentioned. I will definitely look into all of them. I had stopped using the spindle roughing gouge on bowls but misunderstood that even if it was shaped like a spindle it wasn’t safe. I thought it was the shape not also the type of wood. I am so happy to hear that I am able to use the carbide tools in different manners. I do find them much easier to work with. I am a complete dunce when it comes to sharpening. I have taken several lessons and just can’t seem to get the hang of it right. So the carbide tips are a god send to me until I master the grind.
Thank you again for your guidance and encouragement. ❤️
I’m retired and I spend most of my free time turning. Probably averaged 4-5 hours a day for quite a while. When my back and legs allow it. Sharpening is quite challenging and so important. I have the wolverine sharpening system but it’s not completely intuitive. Big learning curve. Doug Thompson sells some of the best gouges and turning tools in the world using the best steel for turning there is. He has some great videos on why his steel is superior for turning and also has the best sharpening video I have seen. He teaches consistency. Once you have a grind angle etc that you like you stick with it and master it. So I have set my angle for about 60 with a 1 3/4” protrusion out of the wolverine jig for my bowl gouges and it will cover nearly every scenario from turning the outside, inside rim, and bowl bottoms. Then I have my detail spindle gouges setup and I stick with it. I don’t change my tool holding jig angle but adjust the distance from the cup to the wheel. I have spacer sticks cut exactly to length to set the distance to my wheel exactly with them labeled saying exactly what angle they achieve and what tool they are used on and how much tool is protruding out of the holder. So it is super easy now to sharpen and set up for multiple tools. I now normally use a 1 3/4” protrusion (Doug uses this) vs starting with a 2”. I like the wing profiles better resulting from that change. Again I don’t touch the angle on the holder jig, you can play with it but it leads to inconsistency. I don’t think I will change it the rest of my life. I have solved all my sharpening woes with this one angle so why change. Then I don’t have to rack my puny brain trying to remember what angle I use for what scenario. What I do change is the distance to the wheel. I have 3 main set up sticks that I use to set the distance from my cup to the wheel. This determines my bevel angle. Get an angle gauge and move the cup bar out trial and error until you get the exact angle you want and then make your setup stick to fit tight between the cup bar and base and label the heck out of it saying exactly what tool, what angle, what protrusion, what profile it produces etc and keep it handy. I can switch from the grinding platform to the wolverine jig and set my cup distance exactly in seconds. Set my protrusion exactly, color my bevel with sharpie ink, sharpen lightly until all the sharpie is gone at the edge and be done in a minute. When you finally get a quick easy way to sharpen traditional gouges is when you can finally use them efficiently and then you fall in love because they are so elegant in how they cut. I still use carbide, especially for roughing to round because that process dulls HSS quicker, saving my sharp gouges for good clean wood. But again I do not use my carbide tools as scrapers only I tilt them at angles and drop the handle etc and cut on only only on the supported side of the cutter to slice rather than scrape. Once you get the hang of that process, it is a game changer. A complete game changer. There are only a couple of Turners that I have seen that preach that idea and that was after I learned how to do it myself through trial and error thinking there had to be a better way, but it truly is a game changer and you will appreciate your carbide tools 1000 times more once you figure it out. I know you will and I think you are going to have so much joy come from that situation that I am actually excited for you. I like your videos I like what you do and what you stand for and just keep rolling. You are on a good journey. Take care, Scott.
@@scottstubberud1137thank you so very much for your guidance!! Great idea about the sticks!! I will absolutely try that!❤