Electrical Rough In
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2024
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Shannon from www.house-impr... shows you the steps to doing electrical wiring rough-in during your house renovation or improvement project.
Shannon, After 6 years of my first home improvement project still revisiting this page to remember good stuff you recorded and use your methods to pass the inspection on my basement project
That is awesome!
I love that you leave the extra slack for future work. I hate working on things after someone else. They seldom think of others.
Or yourself if you have a nitpicky inspector
This guy's awesome...... His drop ceiling video showed me step by step process....... It helped me more than any junk out there. Now this video helps me out with another project
Shannon - I am currently building a detached workshop and your videos have been invaluable to my progress. You seem to have a video for each step I reach with quality and easy to follow instruction. Thank you fro the time you put into getting these vids up on you tube
I like seeing how folks from different areas areas wire. I like how you stress on the drilling per Nec 1 1/4 " from the edge of the stud if you dont drill in the middle you will be nail plating, Its also good how you refer to the authority having jurisdiction , I like the little service loop. Ive had to go back and rewire homes were mad renters cut the wire off at the back of the box. But here we put all our recepts on a 20 amp breaker and use 12/2 . This is good video for the DYI .
The video was pretty informative for most beginners. The only thing I would add is that when you are inserting the wires it's a always helpful to make your 8" strip length previous to inserting the wires. That way you aren't struggling to fit a hawkbill or box cutter in the box. As well as I found an issue with how high Shannon put his staple above the box. It should be 4"- 6" above the box not 12" or more. Another helpful tip for beginners is to staple 90 degrees across from the previous stud hole then pull the wire straight as it would naturally be stapled. Then find where the wire would be to the bottom of the box. This will be the start of your 8" strip length. That way your extra will be consistent and the length of the box if a dry Waller hits your wire with a screw or what have you. Then do your squiggle loop and enter into the box! Easy as pie, works great and looks great too!
he said the staple had to be within 12in and he was at about 10
3/4" works well for most size wires and it also allows 2 wires of most smaller wire sizes to share the same hole. I generally will not drill holes any larger than that as it weakens the framing. You are better off with two or three 3/4" holes than a 1-1/2" hole.
I need to put in a 240 socket in a new workshop.Will 3/4 be big enough?
My Dad was gonna run the electrical to my new 12 x 12 she shed but after seeing this video I feel confident that I can rough it all in for him and save him some time. He is a GC (general contractor) and HVAC expert so his time is extremely valuable especially with summer coming up. Thank you so much for the help!
I have many electrical related videos that will help you also on my channel th-cam.com/users/HouseImprovementsfeatured?view_as=public
A great video for the everyday "home improvement guy" pretty straight forward and informative...good job Shannon!
From my standpoint this is a good video. Please don't let people critique you with no professional background. What you have done looks great from my standpoint and thanks for adding the staple to your other wire at the end for code.
Great video, as usual, but one thing to note - it's useful to knockout the holes you need for the cables before attaching the receptacles to the framing, especially with the polythene vapour barrier container on the exterior walls. Learned that the hard way lol.
Great video. All of the videos I have watched and this is the first mention of a vapor box that I have ever heard. Thanks for posting.
Like the vapor box really works
I like the part about leaving some slack for future problems that could occur. Also I'm adding a receptacle in my shop and didn't think about the vapor barrier box cover.
Uhhhmm actually I'm a 2nd year apprentice and you should've... just joking, thanks for the vid and all the others. I'm building a tiny house and have learned tons from you. Cheers from BC
Great video!! The only thing I would add is to use those little metal nail guards on the studs, so the sheet guys don't drive a nail into the new wiring. They're only like .30 c a piece, so they're cheep insurance.
Hi. I have seen a few of ur videos. Thanks for taking the time to make them. I have learned so much and been able to do most of my projects myself.
Steve
The naysayers are hilarious. It's easy to throw rocks from the sidelines and pick people apart. It's much harder to make a video like this. Until you naysayers can create something better, Shannon is the best! I suspect most of the critiques are rooted in insecurity.
Not really, some of them bring up valid points.
Shut your pie hole ryan!
Greg's Garage 3
100%!!!!
He's actually spot on, this is Code in Indianapolis, just like he did it...so it's right, that I know
Thanks shannon,very informative and detailed....helped me run new wire and recpticle through my basement
I'm a DIY'er doing a small basement and just finished insulating (no vapour barrier on yet). Unfortunately I had no idea you needed those vapour boxes. I'd paid and electrician to do my rough in so now all my exterior wall boxes are on and pre-wired without the plastic box. I guess i have to remove them all and slide the plastic around and re-attach them. Talk about aggravating!
Any electrician should know you need either these or at least poly wrapped around them if you require vapour barrier
thank u bubba i'm a construction forman trying to get may state license i know alot about a/c and refrigerator i'm slowly learning more on electrical wiring and laws etc thanks i just learned something
This presentation is done well! As a new Electrician, I like his work habits and style. Keep up the good work!
"Wire isnt too expensive"....fast forward to 2021!
LOL, aint that the truth!
As always, a big help. Thanks again Shannon.....
Great video. Good to see a tradesman thinking ahead (extra wiring provided in wall cavity). I hope I get an electrician who is as thoughtful as you when I commence my renovations.
never heard of using vapor covers for boxes before. otherwise it looks about right to me. I'm learning residential wiring n this made it look pretty easy. thanks man
Depending where you are you may not need vapour barriers in your home?
Great job, as usual Shannon.
Thanks for the strategies you have contributed here.
This guy is Canadian. Will all of these tips still pass inspection in the US?
Codes are different. Check your local municipal code on your city's website. Good resources for me were Black and Decker's Complete Guide to Wiring and my electrical inspector. Also, the forum on HouseImprovements website gave me some good advice. One of the contributors is from Minnesota.
Hey thanks for the video im in the middle of running electrical now
Very informative -- he talks like the characters on the movie "Fargo."
Just the info I was looking for. Thanks for the great video!
using romex cable. then use PVC boxes. there is more room in the box . and they are stamped inside on how many wires for the box. IT is NEC. And i am a Sparky , i have been in the trade since 1978. Yes drill in the center of the stud. If in front of the stud you have to use nail guards.
Yeaaaaaa! Its Shannon!
good video with clear instructions
Thanks James
The actual preformed boxes I use are not required by code. Many people simply use a 24" x 24" piece of poly wrapped around the box and seal it to the face of your air/vapour barrier.
I like your videos. Don't listen to the haters. It's easy to nitpick. Nice thorough work. :)
Very nice 👍 good job
We do loops outside the box in some localities, and others we don't when the AHJ doesn't like them. The problem is indeed down the road as he said, just sooner than you would expect. All too often the drywall crew gets crazy and sloppy with the Rotozip and slices my 6-8 inches of wire into 4 inches or less. You'd think they'd stop when they feel resistance, but nope. Loops are more expensive, but they can be neatly made while adhering to the 5 times cable diameter rule.
YOUVE DONE A GREAT JOB WITH THE CLOSE UP IMAGES FOR HARD TO SEE PARTS
thanks
hey shannon your vids are the best on you tube was wondering if you could do some more electrical vids
thank you very much. You did good.
This is really good. Gonna be doing electrical myself in my basement. Thanks for the video!
@HouseImprovements Hey, thank you for responding. I completely forgot to mention that one of the walls that already has studs is a shared wall with my neighbour (it's a townhouse).. so do I still need a moisture or vapor barrier? I was thinking of using the sound and fireproof insulation against that wall...
Great video, thanks! Just a side note- whenever you see a negative comment click on the commenter's icon and 9 times out of 10 they will have no videos of their own, so in fact they are experts in nothing except maybe moaning on other people's content... 😃👍
ive watched these videos a bunch and his way seems to work for me.
ScoutCrafter Amen brother
Not having their own videos means nothing - not everyone is into making videos. Most great craftsmen couldn't care less about filming themselves and posting. Just saying.
Romex cabling needs to be secured within 6 inches of the box it terminates into. Also the fittings on the box, if it be metal, needs to have listed means of securing NM type cabling.
u can use 14awg in the U.S. also in residential except for your bathroom, kitchen, garage, washer, furnace and outside lighting and outlets.
Thaks for the video.
I am trying to get someone to do the electrical in my basement but it is next to impossible to even get a phone call returned. For my 1620 sq ftt roughed in basement, the one guy I could get to come out wanted $11,570 to do it. I think I will do it myself.
Whether that is reasonable or not depends on what all you need done and whether the electrician will be supplying the components. It also depends on how hard it will be to do the job (time factor). If nothing has been installed past the power meter, then that quote may be entirely reasonable.
Figure that the labor cost itself will probably be $70 - $100 (or more) an hour. If the job is difficult, that could easily eat up $7000 or more of the quote.
I find vapour barriers to be confusing. It is my understanding that the plastic must be only on the warm side, which usually means inside the insulation. However in your basement you have the barrier on the cold side, opposite to the side you put the box cover on. Last week when I had a conversation with another building inspector, he again emphasized that they don't want plastic next to basement cement wall, because of concern about cold induced condensation from ambient air.
Good video, thanks for making it.
Cheers buddy, appreciate your efforts.
You are welcome
Staples should be at least 6 inches from a box/device thats why I usually drill at knee level which is around 2 1/2 feet so you dont come close to the hole. Also individual staples for each wire is good practice.
Dang bro, your knees are 2 1/2 ft???
@@mattwykstra3502 6'5 ;D
How I'm officially, hopelessly confused. I've had three different building inspectors (in BC and Alberta) insist that I not do that (put plastic on both sides of the wall). It's been a tricky point because I can see the reasoning, and so I keep testing them, most recently last week in BC. They tell me the house needs to 'breathe', to allow some place for moisture to go. But they ironically do allow painting of the concrete wall inside.
I'll check out your other videos, thanks.
Hi Shannon, I have problem , all power outlets in my house second floor don't support household vacuum cleaner operation, except one, they just trip the circuit breaker, please tell me why, thank you. I love, trust, and follow your videos.
you can use whatever box you want, electrical
box are more stronger and primary use in commercial setting, you have to ground the metal box unlike a plastic box.
+P. Lieu Here metal boxes are used almost everywhere
I agree, all you know it alls can eat (own work of choosing), respect the fact that some one is lending his knowledge to you. You can either choose to take it, or get the (own work of choosing) off his channel!
code is 48 for switched 16 for receptacle hight wise thats arkansas code and reason why they say every 12 feet a receptacle has to be placed is because most everything comes with a 6 ft cord
Thanks for taking the time to post. Good Information.
Great tips. Thanks.
To be honest, I've been a residential electrician for over 16 years and I've never seen the vapor boxes you use. It's a good idea, though.
Love the video, but one question...I am roughing in electrical in my new shop, and I need to run wires from one side of a door to the other. Is it okay to drill holes through a king stud, and cripple studs? I also will likely need to run wiring below a window so I will be going through the king and jack as well. Is this safe to do and a standard practice?
One note on the looping and stapling the wires above the device boxes - you are bending them at too small of a radius. By NEC code minimum radius bending of NMC, or "romex" should not be smaller than 5 times diameter of the wire, which in this case radius needs be around 2.5 inches.
Romex isn't half an inch thick - although it is roughly that wide.
Vapor Box? Learned something new today. Tks.
The box is a waste of time
Great video Thank You !!!
Your vid are the best.
Thank you for your video! If you are putting tile on the wall and you know how thick it is including the mud, do you adjust the depth of the box out to accommodate, or just use an extension... My case: 1/2" for Cement Board, 5/16" Tile and Approx 3/8" mud. Would you move the box out 1-3/16"? Thanks again for your video.
You could do either . I generally would install the box the normal 1/2" projection and add rings
are there any codes for heights? i am planning on adding some outlets in my garage but i want them a little high up to accommodate tools and work benches so i want them about 4 feet high off the ground.
Yes there is code heights read the book
Lots of stereotypical union workers on this thread, complaining about someone else's work while they sit back and enjoy their collectively bargained salaries, cushy benefits and non-performance based raises. A decent guy like this tries to make a helpful video for DIY homeowners, and all these blowhards tear him apart and suggest the homeowner pay their ridiculous hourly rates so the wiring "looks pretty" according to whatever arbitrary "best practice" they're teaching in trade school this week. I've seen plenty of shoddy work from so-called professional card-carrying union guys. Give us all a break.
matthew terakita, you must be a union worker.
I know plenty of union hacks.
Another idiot whose mind has been destroyed by the Koch brothers.
Couldn’t have said it any better McScott! Thanks for speaking up. Shannon seems like a no nonsense kinda guy. Someone you could enjoy working with!
Take care Peace 👍😁🇺🇸
Very Good Video Bro! Very Helpful.
Great Job thank you so much!!!
yes you are correct, but i would never use 14-2 on any outside outlets because of the things you would plug into them.....lighting i could see though.
Great videos Shannon. Really helpful!
Thanks Buddy! A great video straight to the point.
You make things easy for me! Thanks!
Shannon thanks for the video. At the site of the penetrations you made how would you seal them. I have heard 1. Low expanding Spray foam. 2. Acoustic sealant 3. Blue tuck tape. Any preference?
a combination of all three really . Just depends on the penetration but normally tape or acoustical are the easiest and most common.
@@HouseImprovements thank you Shannon you are an amazing teacher!
thank you! very helpful!
Great video, it was a lot of help! You seem like a smart and good guy, keep it up!
Very good video....Only two thing i suggest is that you NEVER put more then one wire under a staple and Two as far as i know in Canada the homeowner may change recepticles and switches and replace fixtures without a permit. The homeowner cannot get an electrical permit as it requires a CQ#(Certificate of Qualification). I would never recommend a home owner ever do there own rough in.
For an exterior wall like this, why not run the cable behind the studs, to provide better protection from dry wall screws and such? Obviously fastening the cable might be more difficult. Is this the only reason?
Don't forget, to sound proof, that wall. Thanks Shannon
If a basement wire had a screw drilled in the middle of the wire, would it have to be replaced or can you just put electrical tape around it? I will say that the breaker was switched off and it was sparks everywhere. I know it will eventually need to be replaced but will electrical tape work for now or is that unsafe?
It will need to be replaced before it is covered up with the wall finish but if you turn off breaker and remove screw , tape up the area and turn on breaker . If you have no sparks and the devices down stream work you may be fine until you have time to change it.But it does need to be changed soon.
@@HouseImprovements ok thanks hun!
Thank you, sir.
أحسنت يا صديقي
Loops comes after the staple not before. Rest is ok
Great videos thanks. I removed drywall to add a door that goes from bedroom into bathroom; however, BX wire is on top within stud. Any advice on how to proceed?
hey shannon just wondering if you could do a video on how to instal an exterior outlet on a home thanks and keep up the great vids..
1gang outlets are at Hammer hight , add nail plates if the 14-2 is not centered due to eyeballing to prevent sheetrock installations from damaging the power wire aka 14-2
Good demonstration, I especially like the idea of leaving a loop of slack above the outlet. Are you using the NEC, or the CEC, as you code?
I assume you were going to the panel with the wire, could one run wire for say 2 walls from one receptacle that has power to it instead of going to the panel box?
@Everyone commenting on the wire length... it is typically against trade practice (and code depending on jurisdiction) to loop the wires above the receptacle because dry wallers will synch the wire between the stud and the drywall when it is installed. If the dry-waller does you would be hard pressed to get him to pay for it as they would blame the electrician. Believe me they also don't care if your wires are in their way. If I were renovating my own house and I were doing both the electrical and drywall I would certainly loop the wired as such, however I would never on a job site. It is a good way to lose $$. The vapor bag over the box serves no purpose in this instance as the wall has vapor barrier. I would also be weary of taking advice from an unlicensed electrician on youtube. Hire a qualified professional. It is very easy to make a mistake that costs a life or causes serious property damage.
Source: Licensed Electrician.
I like your comment and you are exactly right about the loop of wire , drywallers nick wires often and having a little extra that you can pull in prevents an expensive fix.I have trouble understanding why you figure the vapour box around the box serves no purpose? The vapour box is there to seal the vapour barrier to once it is installed. The poly you see against the concrete is a moisture barrier not the vapour barrier. In my area we are required to have a moisture barrier against any concrete below grade.Thanks for your comment though.
HouseImprovements I watched your video on installing the moisture barrier. Where I live they install moisture barrier on the outside of the building and vapor barrier on the inside.
Thanks for the nice video. This is the best I have seen on TH-cam. How do you run Romex in the wall if I am hiding a basement support pole inside the wall. There is no room on either side since dry wall will be up against it. Am I allowed to run the Romex under the support where the diameter is thinner? Or do I have to aviod this completely? Thanks
If you can I would go up and over and back down , or up past the threaded part at the top of the support post.
Shannon great vids
Do you have any vids on installing metal 3 gang boxes. For new and existing walls. I require changing a 2 gang box to a 3 gang in an existing wall. Wondering how to support it. Since the 3 gangs have a tendancy to swing out of the wall due to lack of support.
For 24 inch framing, does the wire need to be supported between the studs?
Hey Shannon. Why use metal recp boxes, instead of the blue pvc ones? Also. Where would I get those vapor barriers for the recep boxes at? Thanks and happy New Year.
Is it Typical to run the Wire Horizontal rather than Vertical up the 2x4, even for a Mobile home? I have to cut some Wall higher up and didn't wanna hit a Wire
Thank you!
it could be either way so you need to be very careful.
Do you seal the wiring going through that vapor barrier box?
Thank Shannon. I really enjoy your videos. Where do you get these vapor barrier boxes here in NJ. I’ve tried Home Depot and Lowe’s and unfortunately couldn’t find any.
Because there junk
I'm curious why you used a 14awg, instead of a 12awg? I thought receptacles were suppose to be on 12awg. Thanks for the videos! Really helpful!
Not always, depends on the application, also codes are changing regularly lately.
Generally kitchen plugs use 20a 12awg all other plugs use 15a
Great video. Quick question. Can I run 12/2 to all my receptical boxes with 20A recepticals on a 20A breaker from my panel? Total length from panel to furthest receptical is approximately 65 feet.
No
@HouseImprovements The laundry area.. the wires are run across the ceiling but then comes down for a plug-in, one looks like a standard one, and the other is for the dryer. There's about an inch between the wires and concrete so would I, or can I just put the insulation around it? (and copper pipes too?) They're secured to some small 2x4s attached to the wall... ... .. (this basement is a big headache..)
I have been an electrician for ten years and I have to agree with hermancando. I understand why he's doing it, but leaving a loop like that could potentially cause more problems than it would ever solve. Always make sure you are feeding power into those boxes! It isn't just a matter of running the wires. Power needs to be feed into those boxes either coming from a breaker (14 gauge = 15 amp breaker, 12 gauge = 20 amp breaker) or off of another outlet that has power to it.
THNKS YOU BRO
+Wiring Diagrams you're welcome