Wiring a Small Layout - Building "The Grunge" Ep. 10
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- To get your model trains running, you need power. And usually to have power on a model railroad you need wiring. And that often means soldering. In model railroading, where there are so many aspects to the hobby, there are bound to be things you like and that you don’t like, things you’re good at and others you’re not so good at. For me, wiring, and more specifically soldering, fall into the “don’t like” and “not good at” categories.
But still, it needed to be done if I wanted to see trains running on my HO scale layout.
In this video I share my techniques for wiring a layout for DCC. While I'm no expert, if you've ever wondered how to perform these task, this video will cover what you need to know to get your layout running.
If you've ever wanted to get into model trains, or build a small switching layout but didn't know where to start, this series is for you, because it's all about how to build a small layout! There's a lot to think about when building a train layout, especially in a tight space, and we'll cover everything you need to know on how to build a small layout. This is the tenth(!) episode in the series on building a small HO scale layout.
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
02:10 - Preparing the Surface
04:17 - Bus Wire
08:47 - Prepping the Drop Wires
12:30 - Installing Drop Wire
20:21 - Connecting Drops to the Bus
22:53 - DC vs. DCC
23:56 - Testing the Layout
26:21 - Wrapping Up
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Track plan for "The Grunge" Layout: www.chessiemctd.com/the-grunge...
#modelrailroading #switchinglayout #modelrailroad #wiringalayout #soldering - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Just found this series - very impressed with the Grunge and its design. Two comments - with suitcase connectors, you don't need to strip the connector end of the dropper. Secondly, for a DCC system, this would be an ideal candidate for a DCC-EX controller. Thanks for sharing your progress with us.
I like the way you present the wire against the rail. I believe that if you "tin" the spot on the rail and "tin" the tip of the wire, then you with one hand, position the wire and with the other the soldering iron, brief moment, not melting the ties, and get the solder done.
We all have something we don't like to do, but you got through it, and it all works. Thanks for sharing, David
Happy to share. Thanks for watching!
It's alive 👍👍
Alive! 🙂
I'd love to see how you operate this layout
Thank you for sharing
I've never soldered in my life... never had an actual layout for that matter.
But I'm definitely saving this video for a good reference on soldering once I get there
Thanks for the comment! An ops video is in the works. That said, I wouldn't use me as your primary source for soldering tips. Like someone mentioned in another comment, you're probably better off watching soldering tips from someone like RTNT: th-cam.com/video/o0ogBn0moCo/w-d-xo.html
The ops video is now up! th-cam.com/video/D0MsNjH2DTo/w-d-xo.html
Great job Joe, you managed to turn something boring such as wiring to something entirely funny and entertaining, it was amazing to watch you get it done, I felt your frustration when you tried to line the wires for soldering.
Glad you enjoyed it! Yes, I was pretty frustrated there. I edited out some, uh, let’s call it “colorful language”!
Looks great!
Thanks!
Two suggestions about your drops: 1) maybe try a smaller hole than ⅛", and 2) try wedging the drops in place temporarily with a round toothpick.
With the Gatorfoam, you’re right I could have gone smaller. The 1/8” hole works great with other, more “squishy” materials like homesite and ceiling tiles. Love the toothpick suggestion!
Wow, never thought of the tooth pick thing. I like it!!!!!
Nicely done.
Hi Joe,
I understand that you dislike shouldering. Me too. And I work in electronics!
Here's a simpler, safer, & easier way to shoulder your dropper wires to your track.
First, if you preplan your shoulder locations join your droppers off layout. You will have an easier access to your rails if they are not glued and screwed in place.
B: before attaching your droppers to the rails tin the wires with shoulder.
III; when the iron is hot strike the rail with it's own tinning. While the rail is still warm use the iron to reheat the shoulder on the wire. Make it quick to avoid over heating the ties. I tend to keep a cool damp rag close by to drop the temp quickly.
Next, I ALWAYS use Suitcase Connecters to connect my droppers and bus lines. Though I do have multiple bus lines for:
Trackage
Animation
Lightning
& Offline Rail Tools. Like an independent RIP Track.
Lastly, I keep all of my wiring ZIP TIED and stapled to the underside of the track bed. For neatness.
P.S. Label all wires under the track bed. Handwritten peel & stick labels, doubled over on themselves, work just fine.
P.P.S. You do good stuff. I'm glad YT recommend your channel to me.
I LIKED, SUBSCRIBED, and "HIT THE LITTLE BELL."
Thanks,
Jim N.Y.,N.Y.
Thanks Jim. These are good suggestions. I do label my wires on the main layout where there are a lot more drops. But I could always do better. And my wiring is pretty messy. Want to come and clean mine up? 😉
Thanks for the kind words and for subscribing. I hope you continue to enjoy what you see!
Interesting series of video's, great to watch. My tip for wiring drop wires is to solder the drop wire to the bottom of a rail joiner before fitting it to the rail. A little bit of pre-planning is needed for the drilled holes in the baseboard but makes the drop wire completely invisible once the track is ballasted.
I’ve heard of others doing this but have never seen anyone do it in person or tried it myself.
If one doesn't like to solder one can buy the rail joiners with the wire already attached.
Great video. Yes. Do an operations video.
Thank you for the step by step video. I appreciate your struggles to show soldering. As I always tell everybody, it always works up until there are witnesses.
As for thoughts about improving, I only have thoughts. (CAVEAT / DISCLAIMER) They are not by any means advice, because I have not begun wiring.
Perhaps use mini binder clips (basic models are black spring-steel with chrome levers) on the underside to hold the drops in place. Or perhaps use a square of painter's tape to affix the wire to the underside of your
substrate.
Perhaps pre-tinning your tie-plate shaped drops.
You're welcome. I always struggle with just how much step by step to show, especially for things that I might have already showed in a previous video. And don't sell yourself short, those are great suggestions. Thanks for watching!
love soldering. No more satisfaction than seeing a great solder joint neat and finished.A 1/8 inch hole is pretty big unless you want to use large wire. I use a drill that is 1 size larger than the wire I want to use and that is a very small wire. Another controversial thing I used to do was to put the wires between the rails and solder them to the inside of the rail. I have never had a derailment due to the solder, ever. I am a minimalist when it comes to solder... It is always nice to be able to get to the underside of the road for wiring. Either that or having it high enough for a chair to get under the road. My road is at 50 inches. None of the DCC owners I know put any twist in the wire. One problem solver I have found good is to have an older car with most any kind of tape on each side. Color one side of the car for the first color and the other side for the other. Now have the car on the road and just match the color of the side to the wire. On the track end I take off about 1 inch of cover and the other end I don't worry about until I get to the soldering phase. The wire will never get close enough to short out so why worry about the shield above the base material?? I've never used "heat sinks". I find it unnecessary. I have a friend that actually files a slot in the base of the track the size of the wire and then solders it to the track. I also have a friend that will drill the hole for the wire directly through the tie, take off the molded in tie plate, and then solder the wire like you do and the wire will look like the tie plate. I usually solder the wire to the underside of the rail. Not wanting to have the trouble you had, I usually tin the track and the end of any wire I use, then I can hold the wire with one hand and the soldering iron with the other. Nice solder job!!! My drops used to be every 6 feet on my roads. Don't like to rely on anything except solder and I can not see spending the money for the suit case connectors. Currently I have no wiring to my track as I have all of my engines battery operated....
A lot of interesting tips in there. Thanks for the info!
@@ThePixelDepotLLC I've been lucky in my modeling life to have been taught by some very astute modelers. and I tend to go on and on...
Great video, thanks for doing the video. I’m just getting started and yes I’m dreading the wiring. Thanks for keeping it simple.
You can do it! Seriously, I'm clearly not a fan, but lots of people I know do really like doing it. Or at least don't mind it. Take your time. You might find that you do like it. There are plenty of other videos out there with great pointers from people who do a much better job than I do!
Nice
Operations? Yes please
Clean or replace your iron, that's why it is having heat problems. Otherwise good video and tips on smashing the wire like that.
Push a toothpick into the hole to trap the wire against the rail. Then it will stay in place, and you can solder with impunity.
Ha ha I feel that way when all the wiring is done, "Thanks god that's done" lol. I've started cutting more ties at the joints and soldering the drop feeders on the bottom of the rails to avoid seeing any drop wires. Of course I'm now working with 2 separate N scale layouts with very small track and it's a real pain. I saw the C&O Geep was weathered in the background, looking good buddy. - Dave B.
You’re braver than I am going with N Scale. I’m not sure I could do it without my eyes revolting on me.
Also is important that the site is clean , free of oxidation. Every section of track you will put feed wires ?
Nice video today
Thank you!
@@ThePixelDepotLLC Hi if you get time Have a look at my channel. See what you think. Thanks for your support and time.
First issue I noticed on that first drop. The track was flexing side to side because it wasn’t secured to table. So the wire kept falling off.
Second I believe you should be putting the solder Tip against the rail and drop wire tip. Flowing Solder on much faster. With Liquid Flux should take about a 1-2 sec. touch on a Hot Iron.
I think those drops fell off due to Cold Solder Joints. They always look Dull silver grey. Good joints shine like Chrome.
Ties were looking a little shiny from heat.
Check out IMMRO on YT or RTNT for excellent Solder Demos and Tips.
I just ordered a Vise Grip Auto Striper from AMZ. Will be a step up from the Plastic one I got 2 years ago. Thanks for that mention on the Bonus Vid.
Thanks for the pointers. Somewhere along the line--not sure when or where--I was told that you don't want to apply the heat directly to the joint. I'm not saying you're wrong, just telling you why I do it that way. And yes, some of those ties did suffer some damage.
Thanks for watching and keep those suggestions coming!
@@ThePixelDepotLLC
Totally disagree with that technique. Been soldering since teen years and Professionally since 1982.
The likely reason your 4? Feeders fell off was due to Cold Joints.
Check out Ron’s vid on doing feeders. One if the best modelers out there for Techniques and Tips.
th-cam.com/video/o0ogBn0moCo/w-d-xo.html
I think that the "heat sincks" were taking some of the heat away because they were so close. I don't use them at all.
Great job..but for that amount of wires i would recommend an adjustable auto stripper...saves a lot of time.
I have never heard of this tool before… but I will definitely be checking it out. Thanks!
Yes, if you want to pay that kind of money for something that is a single tasker. I just don't...
I found your channel two days ago, while searching about designing and building a switching layout, have subscribed, here is my question, why didn't you break the bus line where the two modules join? It would be easier to move the layout in some instances. Great videos and layout
Hi Gregg! I certainly could have done that. The reason I didn't break the layout in the middle is because I was fairly certain that once assembled, I wouldn't need to split the layout, even to move it. With the Gatorfoam, it is extremely light, and thus very easy to move. I also didn't want to have to worry about how to make sure the sections stayed aligned using clamps or something like that.
I'm glad you found the channel and that you're enjoying it! Keep this questions coming!
HI JOE I just finished watching tutorial on wiring ,I found it very interesting and informative, my question is how far would a model railroader assume the distance for each drop wire location also what about the locations when a switcher track is involved? If I may intrude on a diagram of the location on a switcher track it would not only help me but many others who may have the same doubts of there whereabouts .thanks looking forward to hearing from you. KEN
Hi Ken. A good rule of thumb that I use is to put drop on every piece of track, including turnouts. That way you're never relying to the connectors to provide an electrical connection. Now, this is more realistic if you're using flextrack instead of sectional track. You could solder the connectors to the track to ensure connection between sections, but I would only do this in the even you have a very small piece of track on one side of the connector.
Would using those old hemostat clamps help in holding those drop wires preventing them from falling back through the hole?
It probably would. That’s a great idea!
This foam core material, I noticed you are not using switch machines with that material would it be an issue to install ? Have to go back to see how you built the box. I also use auto stripper and auto crimper saves a lot of time. Did you tin the drop feeder before you tried to solder it to the rail?
I am not using switch machines, no. I generally don’t use them, even on my main layout, which is still a shelf-style layout, except for in a couple of places. That said, I think you could probably use them here if, like I did with the terminal blocks, you used some wood blocks glued to the surface for support. I don’t think the Gatorfoam itself would hold the machines in place long term.
No, I didn’t tin the feeder. Probably would have been easier if I had. Thanks!
I followed your way of wiring the layout. I used peco unifrog streamline switches everything works great except 2 of the switches stop the engine right at the frog. Any solution would be appreciated!
I wonder if you tinned the drop, if it would be easier....
Probably. If I was that smart! 😉
@@ThePixelDepotLLC oh, you're that smart. Some of my best ideas come to me after I screw up or talk to someone who has done it before ...
Good Stuff. Noticed you make no mention of powering "frogs". Is it because you are using Peco turnouts that allows the operation of all turnouts without special wiring? Thanks.
I'm using Peco Insulfrogs which means that the frog is completely insulated. It's made of plastic so it's no conductive. Thus, I've never had to worry about powering the frogs. They are, however, power routing, so it does power the rail beyond the frog to ensure conductivity. Hope that helps.
thanks for the good info@@ThePixelDepotLLC
Hi, starting watching the grung videos, up to #10 wiring. I am doing a 1x6 shelf setup using Kato tracks. I saw that you used all those drops, was so many necessary? I will probably use a D C setup. I also noticed that your switches are not powered. Can you please help me understand, cause I suck at doing electrical stuff, thanks so much, Mitch B.
I wire every piece of track. It’s probably overkill in a layout this size, but it’s rock solid in terms of power delivery. I’d rather have overkill than find that a rail joiner isn’t provide solid contact.
I usually don’t power my switches _right away_. I usually keep them in place for a while to make sure I’m happy with placement and operations, but I do power them later once I’m satisfied that I won’t be moving the turnout.
Good luck with your wiring!
@@ThePixelDepotLLC thanks Joe, for answering me back.
Hi Joe, about to finish wiring up my shelf layout, I followed your video and so far so good, BUT, I don’t know which side of the bus bar to connect the blue and white wire that will go from the bar to the Kato controller. I’m doing DC , can you please please help me, I will be in your debt, thanks, Mitch B.
If you’re just connecting your controller to the bus, it shouldn’t matter. In DC connecting the blue to side A will cause the loco to go one way when it’s in “forward”. If you connect the white to side A will make the loco go the opposite direction when set to forward.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC thanks so much.
So what you are saying is that if the blue is connected with the red , it will go forward in forward mode, correct?
@@mitchellbennis9236 I can’t guarantee that, since it depends on the polarity. But if it doesn’t you can reverse the wires.
Got it, then if it doesn’t work out then I’ll reverse the wires, thanks.
Is your bus wire solid or braided
I’ve been using stranded bus and solid drops, but you could probably go with solid on the bus as well.
What musical artist is that playing?
I assume you mean during the timelapse sections? That's a song called "Pell Mell" from a royalty -free outfit called The Music Bakery.
Hi Joe, I don't think you want to talk about it. But please, do you have any problems with the frogs? I'm building the grunge or something similar but I will be using atlas turn outs. do you have any thought?
I'm not avoiding it, I'm just very behind on comments! I'm using Peco Insulfrogs which means that the frog is completely insulated. It's made of plastic so it's not conductive. Thus, I've never had to worry about powering the frogs. This thread might help you, though: forum.mrhmag.com/post/how-to-power-atlas-frog-12199056
Thank's I appreciate that very mumuch. I should be ordering my materials real soon. I never had problems with the atlas frog in the past but seems that's all I hear any more.Well I'm all prepare I hope. I plan to get back into the hobby, again thanks.
Humans should have three hands
It really would make a lot of things easier.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC you might consider fixing the drop wire with a drop of hotglue before soldering. Helps keep everything in place. Regards
@@PepsiMagt excellent tip.
@@ThePixelDepotLLC Like the above idea of using a tooth pick to wedge into the hole better.
There was no need to strip the bottom of the drop wire if you are going to just use the brown push connector. 100% not needed