The early 70's 472/500 were & can be a monster with a little cam & ignition upgrade especially down low rpm.Keep up the love for the forgotten torque monsters.☝🏿
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 I got a similar issue on my 560SEL, but I can change the timing only on the camshafts by using offset woodruff keys. MB suggest 2 to 4 degrees on the M116/117 engines as well. I have been reluctant to change the woodruff keys as mine are the original and they are super tied on the camshaft. I don’t want to damage my camshafts by removing them. Glad your feeling better Peter
Sir… I’ve been in the internet for way too long tonight and I’ve watched all your C3 videos… Sir, what happened to it? I’ve got a neighbor trying to sell me a 79 in good shape with a L82 in it. I want to get it to 400+ hp with new heads, exhaust, intake manifold, a new carb, and potentially (please picture Jerry from Tom and Jerry swallowing that lump in his throat) changing the cam😮 Your play by play was a real eye opener. I have so many C3 questions that were being answered in that video. Please bring back the stingray!
I do indeed plan to but priorities changed and had to put it on the back burner. She is sitting tucked away in the garage. Motor just has the two mounting bolts to remove and then out comes the motor. I certainly do appreciate you taking time to comment.
@@ImpalamansGarage Thanks! I am looking on Rock Auto and the plug specs changed in 1974 and I suppose it’s due to upgraded ignition, HEI. Plus the warmer plugs from 1974 and up show a 0.050” - 0.060” gap where the older models are 0.030” gap. If you don’t mind, what plugs are you running?
Running good .... Even the video shows how it is quiet and smooth as compared to when you started with everything ... Running like a Cadillac should.. you could be right about the rear end deal I forget about the strike and could not really understand why you had to go extreme on fixing the driveshaft
Scott nothing I did had any effect on that vibration until I pulled that pinion angle up. Of course if I had had driveline experience it would not have taken me so long to figure it out. That was huge education for me. I've found no damage to the vehicle, no mods (other than my most recent ones clearly) or anything else that could explain why it was so far off. I truly believe it's been that way for 52 years and the original owner either didn't care or just puttered around town in it.
I think most gas back in the day was lower octane so the car was set up for that. Now you need a more advanced timing for higher octane. What do you think? Have a good Sunday evening! 👍
Well I'm just not sure Werner. When I was a kid in the 70s it seemed like I use to see premium gas at 97, 100 and even 103 octane available. Now was that octane rating calculated in the same way it is now? Don't know. I'd expect there are a lot of variables to take in. Seems like the most octane around these parts is 91. I heard there was 91 octane pure gas at Buc-ees in Birmingham but I've not been there to verify. Maybe the quality control of refined gasoline today is much more consistent than it was 50 years ago. Seems logical. A vehicle might need to be designed to accommodate much more dramatic inconsistencies in fuel quality in that case. These days the computer runs the air/fuel management and you can feed a more car whatever you want as long as it's not diesel and it will run fine.
@Impalaman's Garage, You know, I don't remember pumps having any octane rating on them back in the 60s and 70s. It was either ethyl or regular. It all had lead in it, so I don't know what the difference was. Ethyl must have been higher octane. Or was it higher lead content? 🤔 For $.50 or a dollar, I could drag Douglas Ave in Wichita on Saturday night for several hours in my Mustang mach1. 91 is the highest I see around here, and that's what my e320 calls for. I learned a long time ago that the higher the octane, the less volatile gas is reducing ignition caused by compression. They strip one atom off some of it, making it 5 atoms instead of six per molecule and adding that back into the mix.
All older cars came from the factory with an extremely conservative tune. They had to be able to run in the most extreme conditions and on the worst gasoline in the world......This requires ignition timing to be retarded several degrees from an optimized tune. All old cars need tuned with more ignition advance and a richer carb tune and other adjustments!
The early 70's 472/500 were & can be a monster with a little cam & ignition upgrade especially down low rpm.Keep up the love for the forgotten torque monsters.☝🏿
Still nothing like the sound of secondaries opened up ❤️
Runs like a caddy should. Beautiful work on that car.
Thank you!
Your passing gear works good and holds to 80 mph....nice!
That’s awesome. That makes some nice sounds on the 50-80 romp!
How do you avoid pre ignition?
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I got a similar issue on my 560SEL, but I can change the timing only on the camshafts by using offset woodruff keys. MB suggest 2 to 4 degrees on the M116/117 engines as well.
I have been reluctant to change the woodruff keys as mine are the original and they are super tied on the camshaft. I don’t want to damage my camshafts by removing them.
Glad your feeling better
Peter
Sir… I’ve been in the internet for way too long tonight and I’ve watched all your C3 videos… Sir, what happened to it? I’ve got a neighbor trying to sell me a 79 in good shape with a L82 in it. I want to get it to 400+ hp with new heads, exhaust, intake manifold, a new carb, and potentially (please picture Jerry from Tom and Jerry swallowing that lump in his throat) changing the cam😮 Your play by play was a real eye opener. I have so many C3 questions that were being answered in that video. Please bring back the stingray!
I do indeed plan to but priorities changed and had to put it on the back burner. She is sitting tucked away in the garage. Motor just has the two mounting bolts to remove and then out comes the motor. I certainly do appreciate you taking time to comment.
She is a Beauty! What spring and limit washer combo did you settle in on?
I used the distributor as it came right out of the box. No changes.
Did this upgraded ignition system call for plugs different from the factory spec?
Yes. You need plugs and wires rated for HEI ignition.
@@ImpalamansGarage Thanks! I am looking on Rock Auto and the plug specs changed in 1974 and I suppose it’s due to upgraded ignition, HEI. Plus the warmer plugs from 1974 and up show a 0.050” - 0.060” gap where the older models are 0.030” gap. If you don’t mind, what plugs are you running?
Running good .... Even the video shows how it is quiet and smooth as compared to when you started with everything ... Running like a Cadillac should.. you could be right about the rear end deal I forget about the strike and could not really understand why you had to go extreme on fixing the driveshaft
Scott nothing I did had any effect on that vibration until I pulled that pinion angle up. Of course if I had had driveline experience it would not have taken me so long to figure it out. That was huge education for me. I've found no damage to the vehicle, no mods (other than my most recent ones clearly) or anything else that could explain why it was so far off. I truly believe it's been that way for 52 years and the original owner either didn't care or just puttered around town in it.
I think most gas back in the day was lower octane so the car was set up for that. Now you need a more advanced timing for higher octane. What do you think?
Have a good Sunday evening! 👍
Well I'm just not sure Werner. When I was a kid in the 70s it seemed like I use to see premium gas at 97, 100 and even 103 octane available. Now was that octane rating calculated in the same way it is now? Don't know. I'd expect there are a lot of variables to take in. Seems like the most octane around these parts is 91. I heard there was 91 octane pure gas at Buc-ees in Birmingham but I've not been there to verify. Maybe the quality control of refined gasoline today is much more consistent than it was 50 years ago. Seems logical. A vehicle might need to be designed to accommodate much more dramatic inconsistencies in fuel quality in that case. These days the computer runs the air/fuel management and you can feed a more car whatever you want as long as it's not diesel and it will run fine.
@Impalaman's Garage, You know, I don't remember pumps having any octane rating on them back in the 60s and 70s. It was either ethyl or regular. It all had lead in it, so I don't know what the difference was. Ethyl must have been higher octane. Or was it higher lead content? 🤔
For $.50 or a dollar, I could drag Douglas Ave in Wichita on Saturday night for several hours in my Mustang mach1.
91 is the highest I see around here, and that's what my e320 calls for.
I learned a long time ago that the higher the octane, the less volatile gas is reducing ignition caused by compression. They strip one atom off some of it, making it 5 atoms instead of six per molecule and adding that back into the mix.
103 is racing fuel, I use it in my bike on track days.
All older cars came from the factory with an extremely conservative tune. They had to be able to run in the most extreme conditions and on the worst gasoline in the world......This requires ignition timing to be retarded several degrees from an optimized tune. All old cars need tuned with more ignition advance and a richer carb tune and other adjustments!