I recently replaced a fuel pump on my 1975 Chevy 350 van and it didn't have a push rod so it's cam driven...is there a special way you have to install it cause now the van won't stay started...youtube has no videos on how to instal a cam driven fuel pump
Awesome video! Looking forward to seeing how you make a oil primer. Btw, can you make a video on what to do if you need to store a car for over a year, in terms of fluid removal. Thanks!!!
Great video, I’m working with a 72’ sbc 400 in my k5 Blazer. After five minutes with the torch I got the bolt on the side out. Trying to get the larger bolt to go back in is not happening. Trying to screw in by hand/no. Applied heat and finally got it started. Trying to turn it with a wrench/no. 3/8 socket/no. 1/2 socket- 1 revolution= 1 hour. I am even using a helper bar on the 1/2 ratchet. 50 year old threads where a large amount of sealer was used from the factory. Two questions: 1) should I heat the bolt with the torch or some other method hoping it will transfer the heat forward to the corroded threads upfront 2) how do I know when to stop since there is no feel the ratchet. I hope these questions help other guys with older engines. I live by the saying “never give up!”
Thanks for watching everyone! What do you think about today's big block chevy upgrades?
Looks good. Its nice to be able to use off the shelf parts when something breaks you can get a replacement pretty much anywhere.
It really helps on a street car that will see a lot of miles.
I recently replaced a fuel pump on my 1975 Chevy 350 van and it didn't have a push rod so it's cam driven...is there a special way you have to install it cause now the van won't stay started...youtube has no videos on how to instal a cam driven fuel pump
Ty for the fuel pump torque.Where did you get it from ?
Awesome video! Looking forward to seeing how you make a oil primer. Btw, can you make a video on what to do if you need to store a car for over a year, in terms of fluid removal. Thanks!!!
I think that is a good idea for a video and I appreciate the suggestion. I think I will do one fairly soon since winter is coming.
Look like Peter Parker
Great video, I’m working with a 72’ sbc 400 in my k5 Blazer. After five minutes with the torch I got the bolt on the side out. Trying to get the larger bolt to go back in is not happening. Trying to screw in by hand/no. Applied heat and finally got it started. Trying to turn it with a wrench/no. 3/8 socket/no. 1/2 socket- 1 revolution= 1 hour. I am even using a helper bar on the 1/2 ratchet. 50 year old threads where a large amount of sealer was used from the factory. Two questions: 1) should I heat the bolt with the torch or some other method hoping it will transfer the heat forward to the corroded threads upfront 2) how do I know when to stop since there is no feel the ratchet. I hope these questions help other guys with older engines. I live by the saying “never give up!”
Digging that Jack Nicholson smile you got going in the beginning 🤣
Like Jack Nicholson from The Shining or Batman? Ill take either honestly.
@@BudgetBuildGarage Is it not obvious?
I replaced my fuel pump 2 months ago, now it failed again. Pulled it out this time and the pump arm had 0 tension, just flopped around .
Good Video, But I'm sure you found out by now the fuel pump you are using is for an SBC the BBC fuel pump has a larger bottom
Thanks for not editing out mistakes. Seeing those is important as well.
How did the oem fuel pump go mine failed a 10 minute test with a fuel pressure gauge ( went to 0 psi in 10 minutes )
How can I tell if you need to change your push rods and rocker arms?
Great buying tips.
I don't believe Teflon tape is heat /petroleum rated for this job.
I'm pretty sure you would have ruined that engine if you started it with those lifters.
It could have ruined. Some of the lifters may have freed up or maybe bent a push rod but we should be good now.
No one cares.
No one cares about your comment.