Watching with my 5 year old daughter - when you said people might laugh at you when you used a vice to crimp connectors a few minutes later she says, "I don't want to laugh at him, I want to cheer for him. He's awesome! I'm AveRage Joe's biggest fan!". She loves your battery packs and thought the bus bars are "beautiful!!"
I either use G-tek general purpose amzn.to/2RCXgeW cause your hands wont sweat but they dont last as long or I use Atlas gloves (that were renamed to showa) amzn.to/2LVpNqN cause they last longer but your hands will sweat. Theres a few other G-tek gloves that have different coatings that might last longer that I wanna try but havent yet!
Fun fact! When you double up wires, you drop the effective gauge by 3. When you triple up wires, you drop the effective gauge by 5. Thus: 2x 12AWG = 9AWG 3x 12AWG = 7AWG Love the videos, keep them coming!
Agreed. And I would've soldered, no matter the terminal or technique. The buss bars are foundational, determining the current carrying characteristics, so why skimp at this critical junction?
Your "vice crimps" at 7:22 are actually quite good for conductivity. The solder you add afterwards will hermetically seal the joint away from oxidation and corrosion, well done, sir! This method is NOT a compromise, it is a very good technique.
No, solder reduces the current carrying capacity of the wire. You add resistance, which eats power and heats up the wire at the critical joint. In a moment of surge, the tin migrates into the copper, thus reducing it's melting point that that of bronce and if more tin is added, then the melting point comes down extremely. Try it out! Get a copper wire, measure the current required to melt it as a fuse, then get a similar copper wire and put solder on it and try the experiment again. Anyway, I think that one would only see that kind of thing if you dead shorted the battery.
Yeah, you got his "package" and that was so funny. And fitting for a proper use of hand air quotes on package. Been a 1/2 hour and I am still chuckling. Keep up the good work and having that fun attitude on all your videos. Also, like that you have toned back the profanity.
LOL Package received!!! Those air quotes I can never get right!!! Thanks for the comment and I wanted to make the videos a little more everyone friendly so I put a BEEP in all profanity words if I keep them at all!!
Ooh cat. Oh buddy 4 am you are killin it for us thanks a million actually the crimp will be a good test to given that it's going to be outside and not the ideal way to do it should make for some interesting videos coming up grins
Jooo legend, wazzap! This can be done about 100 times faster if you put a piece of wire of around 3 meters in the vice, take the back of a clawhammer and pull it off.
Do it! I got 20 meter busbar in like 10 minutes, you can even do way longer pieces of 5 meter wire if you have the space, then when you stripped them you cut them right after the vice, then fold them double so you have half the length and put them in your drill(i used to cut them first but then you have 2 separate pieces of wire to get in there which is a bit annoying) and the end with 2 wires in the vice, the stripping takes about 5 seconds this way. All inspired by you of course ;) BOOM...OUT!
Those TS80's are really good. 18W, yeah. But all those watts are focused on the tip alone, not the whole iron like standard irons do. I have one, and it works really good. Altho, make sure to keep the tips clean. I have to have mine redone, or buy a new one. It doesn't work because of that 😕
Good to hear! Im gonna attempt a try on the bus bars to see what it will do. I usually do a sponge wipe before and after each solder! Thats how I was taught at least. So far I havent had to change a tip on my regular iron and Ive had it for years and got it used from a buddy that had it fooooor eeeeeevver and a day with the same tip. I used the same tip on the 14s100p packs and still going strong. 💥💥💥💥😆👍
@@AveRage_Joe Nice! You won't be able to do the bus bar with it, it doesn't hold that much heat. But you should be able to do any wire-to-wire and pcb soldering. That's where it shines. Now the TS100 iron, that's a different beast. It can do a lot better. Not sure if it'll do bus bars or not, tho. But it does have a larger heat mass.
I have not used it myself but there are several TH-cam reviews that find it can heat way beyond what might be expected for its wattage. Give it a try on the heavy duty jobs.
Goes to Lowes and buys insulated/shielded copper wire just to get home and cut the shielding off lol. I was just at Lowes, they sell the gauges of wire in bare spools or by the foot as well...
I have in the older video when I was testing them! Think there was a few others at that time as well. I did get a sample pack from Keith with all the different ones and Ill be doing another video with them all here soon.👍
I was thinking about this too. My line of though is - even though they don’t blow on your systems highest current draw, surly they drop too much voltage when operated over their rating (0.5) and could be heating up but obviously not to the extent that they produce visible light. However you are only running them at ~700mA ( per cell basis) on your heaviest amp draw ( full load / low battery voltage) so probably not significant. Would be interesting to know though!. I would have gone for the 1As in your system because then you would be running under the fuse rating and still have a safe low instantaneous break current (3-4A). Could easily be tested if you had a thermal camera.
AveRage Joe - Yes they are excellent tools, easy to see the dying cells in your packs and when you test the cells individually you can fill up your charger rack and then set up the thermal camera to record through the charge and easily identify bad cells. Also good for viewing bad insulated areas in your house and can be used to inspect power electronics periodically to look for any ageing components. You can also look at the solar panels with them and identify failing panels, we do this in summertime on large solar farms and every year dying panels get swapped out. Generally a good quality panel ( Canadian Solar is good quality) will last a good amount of time maybe 10 years + but when they die they can effect the MPPT tracking efficiency. As I say very useful tools - literally gives you a new set of eyes to look at stuff with!!
Great vid Joe I've been watching you and hbpowerwall since you started and your videos have become very professional and entertaining. Keep up the good work I hope the channel keeps growing you deserve it . From down under. .
Funny thing I chose 2A fuses like 8 years ago, too. :) Usually the cells should be kept under 0.8A constant or average current/cell for longer battery life...
NICE!!!! Yeah keep them under an amp for sure. I think the max Ive ran mine at is .8a during a Live Stream LOL! Normal usage is super low right meow since I dont have enough solar yet to keep up! Soon to get more!😆👍
Hi Joe, Another awesome video! I'm building a ebike 36v 350w motor. The battery 10s6p is recovered 18650 from laptop batteries. Thanks for all the tips.
From your videos, I set my self up with some tp4056 connected to MP1584 5v buck module and powered by a laptop power supply (I can do about 6 at time)...…….makes a great charger before I test them on a LiitoKala Lii-500. Without pre charging the used 18650s takes forever to test. Also the tp4056 cost around .99$ and I won't wear out my Lii-500 charging them. Again all of this is stuff I learned from your videos. Thanks again.
I think its pretty fast once you get into the groove(and not filming😉😆) I thought about making a stripping tool but decided not to since this way is pretty fast!🤘👍
The copper wire and all. The way I'm building my packs is getting spendy... I'm thinking I'll nickle strip the next packs. If I can figure how to fuse the cells. Maybe nickle the neg side and solder fuses to the nickel in the pos side? The packs will be only supplying 50 amps peak , that's 250 ma per cell peak. So the nickel should be fine!! Great video sir Joe!
What is costing so much in your build? Copper😉😆. Ive been thinking of nickel strip as well but want to do some testing. The only issue with spot welding nickel strip directly to the cell is if you ever need to replace a single cell.
AveRage Joe yeah, looks like I'm gonna have about 100' of 8 gauge, plus 1.5" x3" copper plates. I don't know if my iron is going to survive. Nearly half the huge tip is gone already. I guess I need to regulate the temp. It vapirises the solder afert at full temp. It's a 200watt from amazon. What do you think about jehu's rig? With the PCB's?? It's OK I guess. If you aren't pulling any current. . I have a similar idea I had for a while . I thought it was a dumb idea. Now I'm thinking maybe not so dumb.. It is sort of like how Tesla did the older packs. Only using PCB. And spot weld or solder to the cells and PCB. And could probably be used with the cell holders. But not a must. I may tinker with the idea. After I get some of my projects squared. But yeah, the budget for copper has definitely been blown. It's near doubled what I was thinking. I'm definitely doing something different next time. Keep at it, and keep us informed on progress!
AveRage Joe yeah, looks like I'm gonna have about 100' of 8 gauge, plus 1.5" x3" copper plates. I don't know if my iron is going to survive. Nearly half the huge tip is gone already. I guess I need to regulate the temp. It vapirises the solder afert at full temp. It's a 200watt from amazon. What do you think about jehu's rig? With the PCB's?? It's OK I guess. If you aren't pulling any current. . I have a similar idea I had for a while . I thought it was a dumb idea. Now I'm thinking maybe not so dumb.. It is sort of like how Tesla did the older packs. Only using PCB. And spot weld or solder to the cells and PCB. And could probably be used with the cell holders. But not a must. I may tinker with the idea. After I get some of my projects squared. But yeah, the budget for copper has definitely been blown. It's near doubled what I was thinking. I'm definitely doing something different next time. Keep at it, and keep us informed on progress!
AveRage Joe I was just thinking. If you use nickel strip. And had a bad cell to replace. Just cut the strip near the cell. Replace it by welding a piece of nickel to the cell. And weld it to the rest of the nickel strip on the pack. Then there is fusing, and finding the bad cell may be more difficult.. I don't know!!!! But we will figure it out!!!!
Ill have to look in videos and see what hes got! At least you are using a fuse!!!! They axial glass fuses in a slow burn pop at double what they say. In a dead short type of thing I think they pop closer to what there rated at.
I love the work product you put out. What are the dimensions of the wire, length precut, length after the twist and the length is for how many cell holders?
Thanks Man!!! Precut was 4ft, (way to long) about 44ish inch after twist(about 6-7 seconds of drill time) then I cut them to 42" before bends. After bends I cut off another 1" off each end. Four 4x5 cell holders then I had some singles on hand and put 2 rows on the end!🤘👍
Yes Sirrr. Precut was 4ft, (way to long) about 44ish inch after twist(about 6-7 seconds of drill time) then I cut them to 42" before bends. After bends I cut off another 1" off each end. Four 4x5 cell holders then I had some singles on hand and put 2 rows on the end!💥👌
Love your videos! Is there a functional/electrical reason for the ~2" part of the bus bar that connects the two long sections, opposite the end where they come together in a "Y" - or is that just for ease of construction/handling, like to keep it all in one continuous piece? I'm considering a design that wouldn't include that section, and it seems like no current would flow through it anyways - but am I missing something?
Its there to help keep all the cells in balance. Sure the "Y" is also doing the same but lets say for example the 2 rows on one side are "weaker" then the other side then those cells will have to work a little harder to get the energy to where it needs to go. Do you actually need that connection, probly not. But since Im using recycled cells I want to keep all the cells as balanced with each other as I can. Some even add an extra connection in the middle! I say do you! Build what you want to build! There are no rules!😀🤘
Very possible! I cant lend the current arduino spot welder since Ill be giving it away on Patreon but maybe I could build another since I have another set of pcb's. I know HBPowerwall is gonna do a community spot welder in his location so maybe I could do the same for the US???🤔💥
Hey Joe your doin Tony tiger GREEAAAT!! Thanks a bunch for your hard work. I have a question. Doin my first project and what is the suggested difference between cells in mah. Anybody !😊
What do you think the current rating is for these bus bars? 12 AWG is rated for 9.3 for power transmission ...so 3x9.3= 27.9 amps for the busbar you created?
Atleast you didn't have to actually make the wire! I used 8 gauge. 4per pack! Of 100 cells... It's over kill. I think 12 gauge on the next. And soldering can be difficult. I have noticed reduced capacity in cold cells. At 50°F about 400 ma lower than when it was near 80°F. The cells were about 48°F is say because where they were stored was a bit cooler than room temp.
Yeah that would suck if I had to try and make the wire LOL! 4 8g on a pack? That could be a lil overkill but who knows! Agree soldering might be a little tough! Yeah Ive seen lower performance in colder temps as well. Im thinkin the outside is gonna be huge!!!😆👍
Battery porn, copper porn, design porn... it's all here... :-) I got a TS100 so I could use it with 6S if I needed to fix anything on the ebike in the middle of nowhere. The TS80 is lower voltage and power and not as useful to me, but is still a great device. This good article compares the differences: oscarliang.com/ts80-soldering-iron-ts100/
Loved it. Try bring the videos down to 10 minutes or less. Can I send you battery holders for your next project. How about 120p14s. What is your postal address I will send them from South Africa
Thanks Man! I dont know if I know how to do a 10min or less video!😆 What kinda holder do you have? Also I have a PO address in the description box!💥💥💥💥👍
Have been watching your vids on wire fuse testing here is a link to a chart for tinned copper fuse wire hope this helps your viewers for safety electricguru.in/page_view.php?id=29 Cheers
Watching with my 5 year old daughter - when you said people might laugh at you when you used a vice to crimp connectors a few minutes later she says, "I don't want to laugh at him, I want to cheer for him. He's awesome! I'm AveRage Joe's biggest fan!". She loves your battery packs and thought the bus bars are "beautiful!!"
🤘😆 My Work is Done then!!! Best Comment EVER!!!!! BOOOOOOOM💥💥💥💥💥
@@AveRage_Joe th-cam.com/video/T2N_EGHWR_w/w-d-xo.html
@@AveRage_Joe What type gloves do you prefer for tearing apart batteries?
NOICE!!!!!😆👍👍👍
I either use G-tek general purpose amzn.to/2RCXgeW cause your hands wont sweat but they dont last as long or I use Atlas gloves (that were renamed to showa) amzn.to/2LVpNqN cause they last longer but your hands will sweat. Theres a few other G-tek gloves that have different coatings that might last longer that I wanna try but havent yet!
Fun fact! When you double up wires, you drop the effective gauge by 3. When you triple up wires, you drop the effective gauge by 5. Thus:
2x 12AWG = 9AWG
3x 12AWG = 7AWG
Love the videos, keep them coming!
You Know IT!!!!!! Thanks Man! Working on spot wielding ⚔ 😆💥
Your crimp terminal technique is FINE. Stop apologizing for using what you had... You git what you git, and you don't throw a fit!!! BOOM baby BOOM!!
Agreed. And I would've soldered, no matter the terminal or technique. The buss bars are foundational, determining the current carrying characteristics, so why skimp at this critical junction?
You get what you get and dont throw a fit BOOOOOOOOM💥💥💥💥💥😆🤘
Thanks Man! Yeah I usually solder all connections as well!😆👍👍
Outstanding work bud - you 'busbarded it'
Thanks Man!!! Bastardized and DONE!!!💥👍
Your "vice crimps" at 7:22 are actually quite good for conductivity. The solder you add afterwards will hermetically seal the joint away from oxidation and corrosion, well done, sir! This method is NOT a compromise, it is a very good technique.
A little smashy here, a little solder there and BOOOOOM!💥😆👍👍👍
No, solder reduces the current carrying capacity of the wire. You add resistance, which eats power and heats up the wire at the critical joint. In a moment of surge, the tin migrates into the copper, thus reducing it's melting point that that of bronce and if more tin is added, then the melting point comes down extremely. Try it out! Get a copper wire, measure the current required to melt it as a fuse, then get a similar copper wire and put solder on it and try the experiment again. Anyway, I think that one would only see that kind of thing if you dead shorted the battery.
Yeah, you got his "package" and that was so funny. And fitting for a proper use of hand air quotes on package. Been a 1/2 hour and I am still chuckling. Keep up the good work and having that fun attitude on all your videos. Also, like that you have toned back the profanity.
LOL Package received!!! Those air quotes I can never get right!!! Thanks for the comment and I wanted to make the videos a little more everyone friendly so I put a BEEP in all profanity words if I keep them at all!!
Why would someone dislike this video? Nice video man, showed people exactly how to make busbars step by step.
Agreed!😉😉😆 And Thanks Man!💥💥💥💥
Tom Amerman exactly , must that someone is jealous, and hating . I think all of Joe's videos are good.
The method you used for bus bars is what I do, what is modeled after Pete. You did a great job on it.
Thanks! First try on this style!😆
Keep it up Joe loving the old western music
Thanks Man, figured Id mix it up a bit!💥😆👍
See you have perfected your bus bars manufacture process!! Good work. Love the spaghetti western style music! 👍
Seemed to go a little smoother this time for sure! Sometimes this music gets stuck in my head so I had to use it LOL😆👍
Love your technique... Those Bussbars will work out just fine!! AND YOU CRACK ME UP!! Keep up the good work...... :)
Thanks Man! I think they will work just fine as well!💥💥💥💥💥💥😆🤘
Great camera work joe
Thanks Man!!!📽👍💥
I like the ingenuity BooM!!
BOOOOOOM Thaks Man!!!💥👍😆
I used to suck at soldering. but the TS100 with a C4 tip is awesome. lol.
Oh you have a TS100? Did you use it to solder to bus bars?
You make watching fun
Thanks Man!!!👍👍👍💥
OOH Baby, those sure are pretty looking busbars. You should make an extra one to give your wife some new jewelry for Christmas! ;-)
Thanks Man!!! I thought they turned out pretty good as well! Id have to come up with a francy design for jewelry cause she doesnt wear much of it!😆👍
Joe Yoda man your first background music made me think of badges we don't need no stinking badges ha ha
LOL😆😆👍
FM is good knowledge to have love your methods
Thanks Man!😃🤘👍
Sweet hack my dude
Thank You!!!💥👍
Top Job
Thank You!!!
Nice camera work Joe.
Thanks Man! Didnt even use half of it LOL! Gotta make it go with the TUNES!!!!😆🤘
Ooh cat. Oh buddy 4 am you are killin it for us thanks a million actually the crimp will be a good test to given that it's going to be outside and not the ideal way to do it should make for some interesting videos coming up grins
Yep.....4am lol! I think the crimpy joby will work out just fine! The lugs are pretty thick and strong and with the added solder👌👌😃
@@AveRage_Joe how will the planes fly straight if your going to bed at 4 am lol I,m kidding
Auto Pilot😉😉💥😂
Jooo legend, wazzap! This can be done about 100 times faster if you put a piece of wire of around 3 meters in the vice, take the back of a clawhammer and pull it off.
I havent tried that method yet🤔 Maybe Ill give it a try!👍🤘
Do it! I got 20 meter busbar in like 10 minutes, you can even do way longer pieces of 5 meter wire if you have the space, then when you stripped them you cut them right after the vice, then fold them double so you have half the length and put them in your drill(i used to cut them first but then you have 2 separate pieces of wire to get in there which is a bit annoying) and the end with 2 wires in the vice, the stripping takes about 5 seconds this way. All inspired by you of course ;) BOOM...OUT!
Those TS80's are really good. 18W, yeah. But all those watts are focused on the tip alone, not the whole iron like standard irons do.
I have one, and it works really good. Altho, make sure to keep the tips clean. I have to have mine redone, or buy a new one. It doesn't work because of that 😕
Good to hear! Im gonna attempt a try on the bus bars to see what it will do. I usually do a sponge wipe before and after each solder! Thats how I was taught at least. So far I havent had to change a tip on my regular iron and Ive had it for years and got it used from a buddy that had it fooooor eeeeeevver and a day with the same tip. I used the same tip on the 14s100p packs and still going strong. 💥💥💥💥😆👍
@@AveRage_Joe Nice! You won't be able to do the bus bar with it, it doesn't hold that much heat. But you should be able to do any wire-to-wire and pcb soldering. That's where it shines.
Now the TS100 iron, that's a different beast. It can do a lot better. Not sure if it'll do bus bars or not, tho. But it does have a larger heat mass.
Yeah I kinda thought the samzies!
I have not used it myself but there are several TH-cam reviews that find it can heat way beyond what might be expected for its wattage. Give it a try on the heavy duty jobs.
I might as well give it a try and see what she will do!!! That would be pretty cool if it did! 💥👍
Goes to Lowes and buys insulated/shielded copper wire just to get home and cut the shielding off lol. I was just at Lowes, they sell the gauges of wire in bare spools or by the foot as well...
I havent seen the bare stuff other then the 6awg solid there. Maybe there hiding it from me!🤔😃
Just curious - have you measured the voltage drop across those 0.5A and 1A fuses? when operating at 0.5A and 1A?
I have in the older video when I was testing them! Think there was a few others at that time as well. I did get a sample pack from Keith with all the different ones and Ill be doing another video with them all here soon.👍
I was thinking about this too. My line of though is - even though they don’t blow on your systems highest current draw, surly they drop too much voltage when operated over their rating (0.5) and could be heating up but obviously not to the extent that they produce visible light. However you are only running them at ~700mA ( per cell basis) on your heaviest amp draw ( full load / low battery voltage) so probably not significant. Would be interesting to know though!.
I would have gone for the 1As in your system because then you would be running under the fuse rating and still have a safe low instantaneous break current (3-4A).
Could easily be tested if you had a thermal camera.
As soon as I get a thermal camera that test will be one of the first!! Been wanting one for a long time lol.
AveRage Joe - Yes they are excellent tools, easy to see the dying cells in your packs and when you test the cells individually you can fill up your charger rack and then set up the thermal camera to record through the charge and easily identify bad cells.
Also good for viewing bad insulated areas in your house and can be used to inspect power electronics periodically to look for any ageing components.
You can also look at the solar panels with them and identify failing panels, we do this in summertime on large solar farms and every year dying panels get swapped out. Generally a good quality panel ( Canadian Solar is good quality) will last a good amount of time maybe 10 years + but when they die they can effect the MPPT tracking efficiency.
As I say very useful tools - literally gives you a new set of eyes to look at stuff with!!
Those are all the things I want one for!!!😆🖒🖒
Great vid Joe I've been watching you and hbpowerwall since you started and your videos have become very professional and entertaining. Keep up the good work I hope the channel keeps growing you deserve it . From down under. .
Thanks Man!!! Im giving it my best(most of the time😉😉) Can hopefully get better as I go aaaaaand keep the entertaining part!😃👍👍👍👍👍💯
Funny thing I chose 2A fuses like 8 years ago, too. :) Usually the cells should be kept under 0.8A constant or average current/cell for longer battery life...
NICE!!!! Yeah keep them under an amp for sure. I think the max Ive ran mine at is .8a during a Live Stream LOL! Normal usage is super low right meow since I dont have enough solar yet to keep up! Soon to get more!😆👍
Hi Joe, Another awesome video! I'm building a ebike 36v 350w motor. The battery 10s6p is recovered 18650 from laptop batteries. Thanks for all the tips.
Thanks for watching!!! When using laptop cells just make sure to not go over 1amp per cell! They will get hot!!!💥👌
From your videos, I set my self up with some tp4056 connected to MP1584 5v buck module and powered by a laptop power supply (I can do about 6 at time)...…….makes a great charger before I test them on a LiitoKala Lii-500. Without pre charging the used 18650s takes forever to test. Also the tp4056 cost around .99$ and I won't wear out my Lii-500 charging them. Again all of this is stuff I learned from your videos. Thanks again.
Awesome!!! Those TP4056's are great!! Pre and post capacity testing to keep the process goin as fast as possible!🖒
Your method of insulation stripping is how its done! Saw this years ago, no method is better.
I think its pretty fast once you get into the groove(and not filming😉😆) I thought about making a stripping tool but decided not to since this way is pretty fast!🤘👍
That's a big Thumbs up
10/4 Loud and Clear💥😆🖒
looking great! my setup has an XT-90 on each end, with both terminals used:)
Thanks! Yeah XT-90s would work great!!!👍👍👍
@@AveRage_Joe I'll shoot you a post on the FB group with my setup:)
Got it!!!
Cool beans man love it!
Thanks Man!😆💥
Best music!!
Figured Id mix it up a bit!😆🎻🎸
The copper wire and all. The way I'm building my packs is getting spendy... I'm thinking I'll nickle strip the next packs. If I can figure how to fuse the cells. Maybe nickle the neg side and solder fuses to the nickel in the pos side? The packs will be only supplying 50 amps peak , that's 250 ma per cell peak. So the nickel should be fine!! Great video sir Joe!
What is costing so much in your build? Copper😉😆. Ive been thinking of nickel strip as well but want to do some testing. The only issue with spot welding nickel strip directly to the cell is if you ever need to replace a single cell.
AveRage Joe yeah, looks like I'm gonna have about 100' of 8 gauge, plus 1.5" x3" copper plates. I don't know if my iron is going to survive. Nearly half the huge tip is gone already. I guess I need to regulate the temp. It vapirises the solder afert at full temp. It's a 200watt from amazon. What do you think about jehu's rig? With the PCB's?? It's OK I guess. If you aren't pulling any current. . I have a similar idea I had for a while . I thought it was a dumb idea. Now I'm thinking maybe not so dumb.. It is sort of like how Tesla did the older packs. Only using PCB. And spot weld or solder to the cells and PCB. And could probably be used with the cell holders. But not a must. I may tinker with the idea. After I get some of my projects squared. But yeah, the budget for copper has definitely been blown. It's near doubled what I was thinking. I'm definitely doing something different next time. Keep at it, and keep us informed on progress!
AveRage Joe yeah, looks like I'm gonna have about 100' of 8 gauge, plus 1.5" x3" copper plates. I don't know if my iron is going to survive. Nearly half the huge tip is gone already. I guess I need to regulate the temp. It vapirises the solder afert at full temp. It's a 200watt from amazon. What do you think about jehu's rig? With the PCB's?? It's OK I guess. If you aren't pulling any current. . I have a similar idea I had for a while . I thought it was a dumb idea. Now I'm thinking maybe not so dumb.. It is sort of like how Tesla did the older packs. Only using PCB. And spot weld or solder to the cells and PCB. And could probably be used with the cell holders. But not a must. I may tinker with the idea. After I get some of my projects squared. But yeah, the budget for copper has definitely been blown. It's near doubled what I was thinking. I'm definitely doing something different next time. Keep at it, and keep us informed on progress!
AveRage Joe I was just thinking. If you use nickel strip. And had a bad cell to replace. Just cut the strip near the cell. Replace it by welding a piece of nickel to the cell. And weld it to the rest of the nickel strip on the pack. Then there is fusing, and finding the bad cell may be more difficult.. I don't know!!!! But we will figure it out!!!!
Yeah thats a possibility! We will figure it out! BOOOOOOM💥😆
I think Julian illett has one of the irons! Wow I got 4 amp fuses... Maybe I should go with 2 amp fuses??
Ill have to look in videos and see what hes got! At least you are using a fuse!!!! They axial glass fuses in a slow burn pop at double what they say. In a dead short type of thing I think they pop closer to what there rated at.
Hey AverageJoe. Greetings from Palmview Texas 😎👊
Whats UUUUUUUUP!😆🤘
I love the work product you put out. What are the dimensions of the wire, length precut, length after the twist and the length is for how many cell holders?
Thanks Man!!! Precut was 4ft, (way to long) about 44ish inch after twist(about 6-7 seconds of drill time) then I cut them to 42" before bends. After bends I cut off another 1" off each end. Four 4x5 cell holders then I had some singles on hand and put 2 rows on the end!🤘👍
@@AveRage_Joe Hey, I sent you a PM to your email address: averagejoestuff@gmail.com
All i can say is BOOOM!!!!!
I Like it!!!!!💥💥💥💥💥💥😆🤘
Love the visual effects! You're getting good! You gave it a little bit of an AvE flavor. Keep up the good work, but please get some sleep! ;-)
Thanks Man!!! Love AvE's channel! Sleep???? Never heard of it LOL
Did you settle on a name for the test I still like The Patio Heater haha got to love them reds
I havent yet but thinkin Ill make a poll and let everyone decide!😆👍
How much length is lost during the twisting operation?
I turned the drill for about 6-7 seconds and lost about 4inch!👍
Can you make video how to assemble 18650 with solar power system
A lot of my past videos show my system connected to solar.
Hey, can you throw out some info on your jig? what measurements you used for the length ect?
Yes Sirrr. Precut was 4ft, (way to long) about 44ish inch after twist(about 6-7 seconds of drill time) then I cut them to 42" before bends. After bends I cut off another 1" off each end. Four 4x5 cell holders then I had some singles on hand and put 2 rows on the end!💥👌
@@AveRage_Joe Perfect. I have been kind of winging it on my bus bars. Nice to have somewhere to start that's consistent.
AWG = American Wire Gauge
So "AWG" and "gauge" are synonymous/interchangeable.
What about Chinese ium wire non standard crap
@@4priusnt How about Australian Standard Gauge Wire. Lol
BOOOOOOOM You know it!!!💥💥💥💥💥😆👍
🤔😆
ASG????😆
Heat shrinks hides it.. you didn't even have to show us. lol
SSSHHHHHHH😆😂
How long time 18650 battery can work? How many years?
They can last for many many years!
Joe I would like to give you a thumbs up but that was a two thumbs up video sorry BOOM BABY..!
Crap........ Ill have to tone it down a bit to get the 1 thumbsy💥😆👍
Funny how the wire gets shorter when ya twist it 😜
It gets warm too!😉😉💥
Looks like you're bending the bus bars over Bart Simpsons ear!
LOL😆🤘
Love your videos! Is there a functional/electrical reason for the ~2" part of the bus bar that connects the two long sections, opposite the end where they come together in a "Y" - or is that just for ease of construction/handling, like to keep it all in one continuous piece? I'm considering a design that wouldn't include that section, and it seems like no current would flow through it anyways - but am I missing something?
Its there to help keep all the cells in balance. Sure the "Y" is also doing the same but lets say for example the 2 rows on one side are "weaker" then the other side then those cells will have to work a little harder to get the energy to where it needs to go. Do you actually need that connection, probly not. But since Im using recycled cells I want to keep all the cells as balanced with each other as I can. Some even add an extra connection in the middle! I say do you! Build what you want to build! There are no rules!😀🤘
Love it!
😱💥💯
Yo Joe. Would you loan a spot welder?
Very possible! I cant lend the current arduino spot welder since Ill be giving it away on Patreon but maybe I could build another since I have another set of pcb's. I know HBPowerwall is gonna do a community spot welder in his location so maybe I could do the same for the US???🤔💥
Hey Joe your doin Tony tiger GREEAAAT!! Thanks a bunch for your hard work. I have a question. Doin my first project and what is the suggested difference between cells in mah. Anybody !😊
Thanks Man!! The mah IMO is really up to you and what cells you get. I used 2000 all the way up to 3100ish in my own packs!
don't worry, it is underneath the heat shrink
And nobody will ever see it LOL BOOOOOM😆💥
If I use 60 18650 cells 3.6v in parallel what would the amp hours be in total 🤔
You would need to know the amp hour of the cells first. Example 60cells times 2amp hours is 120ah!
The cells are 18650-2500 mah 3.6v 9wh
Ok then 60 cells times 2.5 (2500mah) is 150ah (150000mah).
Thank you very much 👍
Any chance you can make it to this Anarchaforko if we give you a ticket averagejoe?
Ill have to look that one up! What is it😀
@@AveRage_Joe it's a liberty unconference/diy conference in Acapulco Mexico. Topics range from bitcoin/crypto to gardening and peaceful parenting
Oh havent heard of it. Ill look into it! Sound interesting!!!
What do you think the current rating is for these bus bars? 12 AWG is rated for 9.3 for power transmission ...so 3x9.3= 27.9 amps for the busbar you created?
12awg can handle 20amps. So 60amps with the 3. Ive ran 80😲😆
@@AveRage_Joe Thanks, I got my ampacity rate direct from the American Wire Gauge chart ...where did you get the rating of 20 amps for 12 AWG from?
Do you have a link? Every chart Ive seen shows 20amps.
@@AveRage_Joe This is the chart that I found www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Hmm, thats the first one Ive ever seen with that low of amps!🤔
Good stuff! soLdering has an L. It is not soddering... Still, I can look past that as this is a great, informative vid.
Thanks! LOL I know theres a L in there but it rolls of the tongue a little easier with out it!! For me at least LOL
@@AveRage_Joe Is an 'Merica! thing, keep up the good work!
You know it LOL💥
2x boom
💥💥👍😆
Atleast you didn't have to actually make the wire! I used 8 gauge. 4per pack! Of 100 cells... It's over kill. I think 12 gauge on the next. And soldering can be difficult. I have noticed reduced capacity in cold cells. At 50°F about 400 ma lower than when it was near 80°F. The cells were about 48°F is say because where they were stored was a bit cooler than room temp.
Yeah that would suck if I had to try and make the wire LOL! 4 8g on a pack? That could be a lil overkill but who knows! Agree soldering might be a little tough! Yeah Ive seen lower performance in colder temps as well. Im thinkin the outside is gonna be huge!!!😆👍
how long and how many different camera angles did it take to strip that wire. awesome insanity joey!
Waaaaay to many 🤣 and I didnt even use half of them lol💥
@@AveRage_Joe more angles! :D No... gj mate! Loving em!
Slower you slicer!
Wyłączamy milczenie. = Włączamy myślenie. Wiedza warta rozdawania. Autorom podziękowania ślę serdeczne . Budzimy iskierki WIEDZY by je rozdawać.. Sprawdzaj, doświadczaj.. ignorancją wspieraliśmy system.. podaj dalej. Polecam.
BOOOOOOM!💥🤘
fk. only links i can use of yours are the banggood ones lol. Canada has a serious shipping problem :(
DAAAAMN!!!! Banggood ships everywhere LOL!😆👍
I bought some medical pack cells from your link. Don't spend it all in one place.
Awesome Thanks!!! To late, Im gonna spend it all in one place.......TH-cam💥😆🤘
@@AveRage_Joe Haha. I hear ya. This may go to your SPAM folder, but check out my lights: th-cam.com/video/OTqKmRebj74/w-d-xo.html.
Wow dude! You did all that!!!! Looks Awesome!!!
👍
💥😆👍
cowboy music. lol
Yeah why not lol! Mix it up a lil!🎻🎸👢😆
🤩🤩🤩🤩
🤘😁
Battery porn, copper porn, design porn... it's all here... :-)
I got a TS100 so I could use it with 6S if I needed to fix anything on the ebike in the middle of nowhere.
The TS80 is lower voltage and power and not as useful to me, but is still a great device.
This good article compares the differences: oscarliang.com/ts80-soldering-iron-ts100/
Thanks Man! All the Porns😆💥 There you go, thats a great option to have on the road! Thanks for the link! Ill checker out fo sho!!!💥👍
Do six million dollars man theme music when ff
Only if I can find a non copy right version lol😆
Loved it. Try bring the videos down to 10 minutes or less. Can I send you battery holders for your next project. How about 120p14s. What is your postal address I will send them from South Africa
Thanks Man! I dont know if I know how to do a 10min or less video!😆 What kinda holder do you have? Also I have a PO address in the description box!💥💥💥💥👍
God damnit your a fucking genius dude. Thank you.
😆🤘
Yeah But and uh
UUUUUUUM😆
Have been watching your vids on wire fuse testing here is a link to a chart for tinned copper fuse wire hope this helps your viewers for safety electricguru.in/page_view.php?id=29 Cheers
Thats a good chart, havent seen that one. Id say its pretty close to my testing!
I didn't see any trouble or bad about your improvising. it's totally goo