I don't know if it is necessary on these engines, but some guys (Dave from Hagerty for instance) on TH-cam torque the big end and crank bearing caps with the bearings fitted but without the crankshaft, so that the gap where the crank is to be is correct in relation with the crank. In other words, there must be a gap for the oil to be able to move between the crank and the bearing. The gap is measured between the bearing cups with a micrometer and checked on the circumference of the crank. If the gap is too small the bearings are starved of oil which of course causes abnormal wear. Thank you for your very interesting videos!
There are many useful techniques like that for high performance engines. If a mechanic shop goes with all of them they will be bankrupt very soon :) We rely on the accuracy of the new bearings and our own measurements and math. I find the bearings extremely precise and as long as I measure and do my math right everything should go well. I used to plastigauge the bearings just to doublecheck, but I find it unnecessary anymore.
Great video Elin.. Not putting 'assembly lube' in the bores is a good move. There's another argument that has always done the rounds about "three stage torqueing" .. Personally I just tighten as equally as possible by feel and only use a torque wrench for the last turn/tightening much like you show here. The only time I'd reign in my tightening judgement is on cylinder heads.
thanks again Elin. I wish I had your videos when I rebuilt TS 394 LO in 1967. I had the factory service manual but don't think I was as careful as you are. Anybody got a time machine they are not using ? But the car ran for 12,000 miles over 20 years. Will be getting into it again this summer with a grandson. Will report at some point. From Manitoba . . .
They say the only dumb question is one not asked , so here goes 😊If the # 4 bore is slightly larger as indicated by the ring gap , would that not also equate to a larger piston to bore gap ?
Correct, but 3 thou difference in the circumference equals 9/10000 in the diameter, so it shouldn’t be a problem. Most of the shops measure up to 1/1000, they don’t even know what a 1/10000 is
You didn’t mention the wear on the small end, piston to gudgeon pin. Did you fit new bearings in the small end of the con rods & ream them or how do you determine if the fit is too loose? I’m enjoying this series despite not owning a TR4.
I usually check them visually for play. If there is anything that I can see with my eyes then it is too much. Not very precise, I know. I need to figure out a better method. The thing is I've never seen a warn small end bearing so far.
Another great video about engine rebuilding. Everything is looking great. However not a fan of the yellow. It's not the tint that I don't like it's the color yellow as the contrast with the green. I love the green but even if you matched the yellow perfectly with the car color or the lighter shade you were going for....I don't think it would make a difference. I think the green and with black would look much better.....just my 2 cents...not my car so not my call. Just making a suggestion.
Good stuff! 😎 I was trying to figure out where I have seen that pastel green engine color... Buick used a green and a turquoise, but they seem darker. Detroit Diesel used a green, but it seems brighter. Anyone know? Not that you would or even should care, but I'm not a fan of the bright yellow with the green! I probably would have just painted everything boring black. Or at least used black in place of the yellow. 😁 Yeah, I'm nit picking.
Generally the arrow is there when you have valve cutouts which are normally different inlet to exhaust so the piston can only go one way, on this case they are flat so they could go either way. As for assembly lube on the rings, there is a small risk of glazing the bore but it's so small as to be negligible, unless you are going to rev the nuts of it from first start.
The TR4 pistons are always flat, no cutouts for valves and still some of them have direction. They have channels and holes on the skirts for better lubrication I believe nd it is important how you clock them. Not the case with this set though.
Hello that was a good video. One thing I noticed was you torqued the connecting rods to 60 lb in one go not three stages. I have always done all my torquing in three stages. Like 20-40 then 60. Is that not done with Triumph engines?
@@philtucker1224 more accurate as you pull each side down a bit at a time in equal amounts. I have never ever ever torqued a head bolt or stud or rod bolt in any motor without doing three or even four steps. Also the cylinders should be wiped down what transmission fluid on a clean cotton rag or Bounty paper towel. Bounty doesn't have lint. You wouldn't believe the amount of dirt that comes off of the cylinder.
I do 2 or 3 stage on heads depending on the torque spec. But for bearing caps I go as even as possible with my regular ratchet or even gun and then to the correct torque on one go. It is a circle with a gap to the journal, it can't go uneven. I never measured, but I believe the difference between say 30 and 80 ft/lbs in distance is probably within 2-3 ten thousands. Again, for heads it is important and I do it as there is a gasket and changes in distance are much higher between the steps.
Because they are not a solid ring did you notice the shape of the if they butt ends they can just squish up like an accordion as where the second and first ring cannot do that you do not want any gaps in the oil ring because you want to see all the oil in the bottom of the motor where it belongs not coming up past the oil ring getting into the combustion chamber and fouling spark plugs
I don't find it necessary. As long as the measurements are correct it should be good. The new bearings are extremely precise. Of course there are small deviations that would be important for a racing or high performance engines, but for a standard engine like this I trust my measurements and math.
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Thank you Elin, really like the green color
Thanks Elin! Good to see Cheftush in the mix! Cheers 🍻!
Great Video Elin! That yellow is wild!
Very soothing video. Cheers.
Always good. Nice to see the TR 4 coming together.
Super video you are one of the best at explanation and detail.
Thanks. Great work. Wish I had your skill, patience, and tool set....
Great video, very well presented. Good to see your friend Dave helping out👏👏
Good luck from Spain!!
Looking forward to the next one !!
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Another superb tutorial. Thanks, Elin!
You’ve done it again. Thanks Elin for your productions. 🎅
Those drillings on the side of the Conrods are to lubricate the lower bore and piston skirt.
The holes in the sides of the connecting rods are to provide oil to cool the undersides of the pistons.
Three pistons TDC. I thought the same thing!
Stella's back 👍
I don't know if it is necessary on these engines, but some guys (Dave from Hagerty for instance) on TH-cam torque the big end and crank bearing caps with the bearings fitted but without the crankshaft, so that the gap where the crank is to be is correct in relation with the crank. In other words, there must be a gap for the oil to be able to move between the crank and the bearing. The gap is measured between the bearing cups with a micrometer and checked on the circumference of the crank. If the gap is too small the bearings are starved of oil which of course causes abnormal wear. Thank you for your very interesting videos!
There are many useful techniques like that for high performance engines. If a mechanic shop goes with all of them they will be bankrupt very soon :) We rely on the accuracy of the new bearings and our own measurements and math. I find the bearings extremely precise and as long as I measure and do my math right everything should go well. I used to plastigauge the bearings just to doublecheck, but I find it unnecessary anymore.
@@RustyBeauties Thanks for the info Elin!
Great video Elin.. Not putting 'assembly lube' in the bores is a good move. There's another argument that has always done the rounds about "three stage torqueing" .. Personally I just tighten as equally as possible by feel and only use a torque wrench for the last turn/tightening much like you show here. The only time I'd reign in my tightening judgement is on cylinder heads.
Exactly, I do it too for heads only
thanks again Elin. I wish I had your videos when I rebuilt TS 394 LO in 1967. I had the factory service manual but don't think I was as careful as you are. Anybody got a time machine they are not using ? But the car ran for 12,000 miles over 20 years. Will be getting into it again this summer with a grandson. Will report at some point. From Manitoba . . .
You can fit the pistons in pairs 1 & 4, 2 & 4, because of how the crankshaft is arranged. Saves a few flips of the block…
Yeah, I simplify processes when not filming, but in this case I did it this way to avoid confusions.
They say the only dumb question is one not asked , so here goes 😊If the # 4 bore is slightly larger as indicated by the ring gap , would that not also equate to a larger piston to bore gap ?
Correct, but 3 thou difference in the circumference equals 9/10000 in the diameter, so it shouldn’t be a problem. Most of the shops measure up to 1/1000, they don’t even know what a 1/10000 is
You didn’t mention the wear on the small end, piston to gudgeon pin. Did you fit new bearings in the small end of the con rods & ream them or how do you determine if the fit is too loose? I’m enjoying this series despite not owning a TR4.
I usually check them visually for play. If there is anything that I can see with my eyes then it is too much. Not very precise, I know. I need to figure out a better method. The thing is I've never seen a warn small end bearing so far.
Another great video about engine rebuilding. Everything is looking great. However not a fan of the yellow. It's not the tint that I don't like it's the color yellow as the contrast with the green. I love the green but even if you matched the yellow perfectly with the car color or the lighter shade you were going for....I don't think it would make a difference. I think the green and with black would look much better.....just my 2 cents...not my car so not my call. Just making a suggestion.
Not ELIN’s car either…the Customer picked the paint colour actually, so as long as they like it all is good 👍
Good stuff! 😎
I was trying to figure out where I have seen that pastel green engine color... Buick used a green and a turquoise, but they seem darker. Detroit Diesel used a green, but it seems brighter. Anyone know?
Not that you would or even should care, but I'm not a fan of the bright yellow with the green! I probably would have just painted everything boring black. Or at least used black in place of the yellow. 😁 Yeah, I'm nit picking.
I think it’s an Austin engine colour.
It is very similar to the colour of Rolls-Royce military / commercial engines, the BMC engines were a darker green.
@@cheftush you are correct. !
Austin engine colour.
Generally the arrow is there when you have valve cutouts which are normally different inlet to exhaust so the piston can only go one way, on this case they are flat so they could go either way.
As for assembly lube on the rings, there is a small risk of glazing the bore but it's so small as to be negligible, unless you are going to rev the nuts of it from first start.
The TR4 pistons are always flat, no cutouts for valves and still some of them have direction. They have channels and holes on the skirts for better lubrication I believe nd it is important how you clock them. Not the case with this set though.
@@RustyBeauties I see, never come across that myself, you learn something new everyday.
Keep on keeping on Elin.
Hello that was a good video. One thing I noticed was you torqued the connecting rods to 60 lb in one go not three stages. I have always done all my torquing in three stages. Like 20-40 then 60. Is that not done with Triumph engines?
Why do you do that Gary?
@@philtucker1224 more accurate as you pull each side down a bit at a time in equal amounts. I have never ever ever torqued a head bolt or stud or rod bolt in any motor without doing three or even four steps. Also the cylinders should be wiped down what transmission fluid on a clean cotton rag or Bounty paper towel. Bounty doesn't have lint. You wouldn't believe the amount of dirt that comes off of the cylinder.
I do 2 or 3 stage on heads depending on the torque spec. But for bearing caps I go as even as possible with my regular ratchet or even gun and then to the correct torque on one go. It is a circle with a gap to the journal, it can't go uneven. I never measured, but I believe the difference between say 30 and 80 ft/lbs in distance is probably within 2-3 ten thousands. Again, for heads it is important and I do it as there is a gasket and changes in distance are much higher between the steps.
I might have been having a beer at the time but did anybody see him torque the three main bearings?
The Main Bearings were torqued in the previous video. Cheers, Tush
@@cheftush Ta Muchly! I'll sleep better tonight.
Any reason you don't use a ring expander tool?
Elin why is it not a requirement to gap the rail of the oil ring?
Because they are not a solid ring did you notice the shape of the if they butt ends they can just squish up like an accordion as where the second and first ring cannot do that you do not want any gaps in the oil ring because you want to see all the oil in the bottom of the motor where it belongs not coming up past the oil ring getting into the combustion chamber and fouling spark plugs
@@garyfraser8584 oh yes of course! (I remember now, thanks Gary!
Why don’t you use Plasti gauge ?
I don't find it necessary. As long as the measurements are correct it should be good. The new bearings are extremely precise. Of course there are small deviations that would be important for a racing or high performance engines, but for a standard engine like this I trust my measurements and math.