BIG WAVE PEAKS | France POV Raw Surf
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- Surf season is upon us in France and the waves have not disappointed so far! I grabbed a new 7'0 swallowed gun from Sel Surfboards and ripped straight into some solid ones out front :)
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It would be rad to see notes and/or a session review video with decision making at various points. Like paddling at a wave and deciding on right vs left. Thanks for the content Kale!
Bruh just go surf and listen to your own experience
These POV videos (including "failed" attempts) really help us a lot; in mastering where, when and how to position in the breaking wave.
Many thanks!
It such an immersive dynamic when out at a new lineup. From the paddle out to the greeting of people. Sussing out the peak then working your way into the peak while not being too far inside and then making sure you don’t burn anybody when you eventually get one. Great video
I was actually just thinking about this. Surfing new breaks is so different than your local. In my opinion it definitely helps you progress as a surfer exploring new breaks as often as you can.
I've surfed a lot of beach break waves like these and I could absolutely catch them on my favourite board a 5' 10" (probably x 18" x 1.5-2" but I can't recall) and I'm 6' tall.
My main method was to have a wave-catching paddle position on my board which is forward of the ordinary paddle position, so that if I adopt a normal paddling body pose the front of the board digs into the water by a couple of inches and I have to arch my back to the max to keep the front level with the surface. As I catch the wave and the water drops away below the front of the board I drop my head down to the board and the nose drops by 2 or 3 inches giving me a lot closer parallel alignment with the plane of the wave's front surface, reducing drag and increasing my speed tremendously.
The second thing is that beach break waves threaten to break a lot without actually doing it for quite a while, so if you're using to rocky breaks you tend to misjudge the wave (as you seemed to be doing at first in this session), and paddle out towards it only to turn around to catch it and find you're getting left behind. Don't believe a beach break wave until it's genuinely hollow. Position yourself further inside than you think and just wait for it to come to you. You may miss a very few biggies by having to cancel and paddle over the back of it, but you'll miss far less of not being able to paddle fast enough. Even better, triangulate the position that the desired wave height actually breaks. Then you just watch it fake threatening till it comes right into your lap, turn, paddle a few strokes with the above method and you're on it.
I'm not trying to come off smartass here, btw, I'm just sharing my experience so that people reading can benefit from it.
This is actually brilliant advice here. I do the same but could never articulate it such as this
This video is so satisfying for many reasons. The weather, the water, the paddle out, how the approaching waves look, the size and how much fun the rides look. I've had sessions like this so I can relate but sadly they're few and far between. Most sessions I have are practice for days like this.
Love it 🤙🏽
I might be in my 30s, but my soul is all about those single fin longboards from back in the day. 🤘 Who says you can't be young and have an old soul? Loving the mix of new and classic on this channel. Subscribed to stay stoked and share my unique passion!
Thanks so much!
You shred @@KalesBroccoli
So glad you're enjoying Europe Kale, as a European myself I recently moved back after living 6 years in Sydney (Manly), now living in Ericeira :) It's nice for me to see Europe and Australia connect. Happy to host you if you're ever around!
🙏🏽
Mid-length twins are so sick. I got one this summer, and I progressed so much so fast its incredible. I really can recommend you to test the Pukas Lady-Twin, the speed and handling are incredible!
Great for turning but I love a thruster more - the third fin helps convert some sideways movement into forward speed. But my style is more flowing than rad, so that figures. My favourite move is to come off the bottom turn with speed and turn onto and with the lip and stay there as it throws you out.
@@greatbriton8425 I prefer flow as well, I personally think/feel that a twin is just much faster, after having ridden both types, it‘s easier for me to generate speed, but both can work great for sure
@@salty_adventures Oh that's interesting! Thanks for your reply!
No worries, and happy surfing 🤙
Mid length is how long?
That’s what I remember from 🇫🇷 amazing country, beautiful waves, crowded, everyone is going for that particular wave no lineup always a guy on a stand up paddle-board in the way. Drop ins bla bla bla. But really nice video! Respect that you made it though the crowd and got some sick waves mate. 🤙🏻
I'm so glad to see this, I thought I was the only one having to give priority 5 times before each wave I could ride
I live near guethary in the south west of France, Parlementia is the same type of wave big and sloppy but really fun when you master it. The waves you had are the perfect size, not too big to be dangerous but still lot of fun and speed down the line
Great video and great camera positioning. As someone who is coming out of the beginning stage. This kind of video helps soooo much :)
Nice and clean. I just picked up a slightly used 7 footer. It's firewire unibrow and it got me into waves that my fat, thick 6'6" Slater Helium. The Helium was getting hung up in the lip on big hollow offshore days (we don't get many). A very frustrating session since the waves were epic and I couldn't catch any. I just couldn't get into the waves on the 6'6". It seemed the extra thickness and volume was working against me. The 7 footer was thin enough to get down the face and let me catch some waves. I'm getting old and fat so I think I need to start riding bigger boards, but just adding thickness worked against me on hollow days.
So useful to see the raw footage
Thanks for giving the dims of the board at the beginning.
Nice video. Wish i could get clear water like that here in south portugal there is so much seaweed after a storm hit and took all the sand away.
Like central florida, on a good day
awesome as per usual kale!
Thanks again!
Incredible video, in which part of France is this?
Hossegor, South ouest, in les Landes
Beautiful waves man
That raw footage was sick. I also like the info on the board and why you chose it. Can you remember the swell height/period for this particular day?
Looks like 4-8 foot to me with a period of 14 seconds.
@@greatbriton8425 Yeah mate, thx for your reply. I wondered if the bigger sets were like 8 foot. Is a bit hard to tell from the GoPro angle. Also didn't look hollow so medium to lower swell period would make sense. I just tried to figure out what the parameters where for his board choice, because it doesn't look like a classic step-up.
@@buttersnow Hollowness is based on bottom contour not swell period. This is a beach break with slight rise out at the back followed by a very level contour before shallowing normally, so the big waves are touching ground outside and then marching without much change till they hit the rising ground, and the medium waves are touching a bit on the level countour and marching in then breaking a little shallower than the big ones.
I think the bigger sets are 8 foot based on the times when we can measure the height of the wave against his board or stance.
He explained his board choice, slow non-hollow beach break waves are much easier to catch with a longer board, and he's chilling on the slopes anyway so not looking for shorter. Probably doesn't have a huge quiver to choose from.
@@greatbriton8425 yes, good point. I agree. Bottom contours play a big role and definitely the banks didn't look shallow in this case. Cheers
Not exactly sorry!!
Looks so good! Where in France? Would love to go. Grey video thanks!
Hi kale
Are you from Sydney in Australia?
Just looks like you must be due to how you paddle out and instantly paddle through the line up to sit in the best spot?
Was the guy on the paddle board selling hotdogs?
Yes gluten free
I recognized the surf spot, it’s lacanau, home sweet home….❤
Hossegor....
Looks a lot like Old Man's in San Onofre on a bigger day.
the gopro is in the mouth?
Can you clarify why your bailing on these like 4:40. ?
I want
where is this
Hey Kale, what gopro do you use to record?
Just did a video review on this and have a how to pov coming :)
Is this Bidart?
Nice show 👌
Do you ride the 7'0 thruster or 2+1?
crowd at the first spot was terrible looking
Yeah he made a good choice to move.
nice ones ! When are you leaving? :(
Tomorrow!
Dry hat paddle out!
The best
How big roughly are these waves??
Double overhead
@@KalesBroccoli oh wow!!! I’m 13 and started surfing a few years ago but 7ft still feel big enough 😭😭
bro you need to take those lefts
dreamy
What wetsuit are you wearing?
where is this?
Around the Hossegor, Capbreton, Labenne area.. 30 kilometers of beach so there is always gonna be empty waves away from the populated/tourist areas
Hey Kale, How many liters?
Not 100% sure - ask Sel!
that thing just doesnt want to hold off the bottom m8
What a fucking life to live im jealous❤