Arête des Cosmiques - 8a at 3800m
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2021
- Researching Arête des Cosmiques - one of the highest 8a's in the world made me stumble upon a comment by Martina Cufar, Lead World Champion for 2001 who did the second ascent.
The ace Slovenian climber says it all:
"I took me quite some attempts to finally do it! I was breathless, empty but happy on the top! It really felt much harder to me than Digital crack on it's left. At 3800m 8a feels like 8b! A few days later I climbed an 8b in the valley and found this a lot easier, far less of a fight than 8a up on Mont Blanc!" - กีฬา
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We were there watching you climb! we just stopped folloging our climb in the Arête just to see you climb, amazing!
Al limite dell' impossibile!! Assolutamente prodigioso, eleganza, coraggio, determinazione, bellezza,!!!
What an incredible climb! I'd love to see the rest of it.
Excellent climb and engaging filming! THIS CLIMB WAS CAPTIVATING!🌷💖🌷💖🌷💖BRAVO!
Très impressionnant. Bravo !
This is phenomenal.
не перестаю Восхищаться!
amazing work
Браво, много красиво!
Just awesome. 👍 keep it up.
It's quite a shame that the camer work cuts off just as he's going to make the clips- that's the hardest bit!
Yes, and we see almost the same moment over and over again, from all possible angles....
Amazing !! 🙂
impresionante. buena trepada bro. thanks for the video
This vidéo is art
Браво!
reminds me a lot of 'A um passo do espaço' in Sugar Loaf mountain, Rio de Janiero
Krasse Leistung und mein vollster Respekt. Grüße ronactive
Darn good.
MEGA!
is the ringing pitch along piramid split? the harsh moves applicate further on the route
This is so inspiring, holy shit. How long is the route/pitches? Trying to find info online about the routes on the tower, but it seems hard to find.
Thanks for the video Victor!
It's just one pitch, around 35m in length. The approach is a bit tricky, though.
@@victorvaroshkin2648 awesome! thanks for sharing!
unattainable dream for most of us
top rankin'
Enhorabuena por la ascensión,pero que poco probecho se le sacó al dron.
👏👍
👍👍👍👍
Such an amazing line! How endurance heavy do you reckon the route is? It looks like the crux is at the start, but those granite aretes like the one at the top can be super tricky as well.
At 3800 the crux is that you run out of breath/energy way faster than down in the valley.
@@molomono9481 I'm aware of that. I've been there before. That is of course an external factor that deserves some respect, but I was asking about the crux in terms of climbing moves.
To me the boulder at the base felt like a 7a, followed by a nice rest with a knee bar and 7a+/b route above. Truly the crux was catching my breath all the way up though I had been guiding in the massif for more than 3 months already, including 5 summits of Mont Blanc and countless nights above 3600m a.s.l.
@@victorvaroshkin2648 thanks for the reply dude! I haven't done any climbing above 7a at that altitude, but if you're saying that with your vast experience it might really come down to catching your breath. Have you done digital crack as well?
@@Landolini Just one try but didn't like the extremely sharp holds. Also the climb is an ordinary slab climbing that I didn't find as interesting as this aesthetic edge. :) Probably I will try it at some point in the future again.
Is that Digital Crack ?
Those steel balls must be getting awfully chilly up there 😄
Why this video is stopped before he reaches the top??
Due to some external circumstances all the shots are done with just half an hour of drone flight so a lot of climb is missing. :)
!!!
Helmet?
No, you?
Vertical Victor
Beautiful rock - only made slightly less so by those ugly bolts
やばっ
Jesus is coming soon
Not really good skills with the drone
I wait for someone who do this free solo.
What a ghastly thought.