Thanks for the shout out Brett! Most fast guys at Norcal are running 13 or 14mm ride height and -2 degrees of camber. Im curious of how much more your temp will drop with the new location. I also geared down but am finally running in the 130 degree area. Also, as long as you use quality servo tape like the clear 3M stuff and clean the chassis and fan surfaces the fan sticks real strong! I also cut the body a bit back there to allow more air flow! Love the wall ride on that track! Also carpet tires seem to lose their grip pretty quick. I went to the pro-line pre-glued wedge front and pyramid rear and its on rails! Also im running lots of brass. The brass front bulkhead should help your steering a bunch!
Awesome, awesome, awesome! Love to see you guys giving us racers the info we wana know! You guys just keep doin' what you're doin', I'll be here to watch!
I'd like to see an experiment where you exhaust the hot air vs intake the cool air. Exhaust has a tendency to be more efficient. I'm wondering if that holds true here.
Longer chassis makes it harder for back end to let loose in the corners, but longer chassis makes it easier to drive on long straight aways. Also go with the shorter rear arms and driveshafts to make the back end really swing free.
Yo ho Bret. Thank you amain hobbies for doing these videos. I have no place to run & no hobby stores to go to. Guess that's why I. Buy from the best store around. Thank you. My closest store is 2 hours. Can't wait for next video. 👍👍👍
Really enjoy your videos. I recently purchased RC10B6.1DL on sale from you at AMain. Good discount because B6.2 is now on sale. Great Buggy. Really fun to drive. Mine spins also. Tested on smooth hardwood floor for consistancy. Out of 20 test hits. It when straight 4 times, spun right 2 and spun 14 times to left. Ride height & alignment are symmetrical and in spec. Swapped rear tires left to right. Thought small chance they’re different in some manner. Plus ensured steering returned to center before each test. No change in results. I believe diff is out of wack or case twisted. I think your buggy has gear diff?, mine is ball. So it’s weird we’d have the same problem. Or maybe yours spins equally left and right. Could you test yours? I just bought some more diff lube from you. So I’ll rebuild the diff and flip it over. Currently the tension adjustment screw is on left side and tension spring on right (the side with too much power). I’ll see if power follows diff orientation or stays with case. Manual says to bottomout spring and back off 1/8th turn. I made this adjustment twice with no help. Then tried 1/2 and diff works much smoother but power is still unequal. I raced RC10T back in ‘91 or 92 forgot the exact year. I do remember it always worked better for me with loose diff. And I RC drifted for a several years when I lived in Japan. I always setup loose diff. Although some use a spool. Thanks Never experienced the weird unequal distribution of power.
It may just be your trims are off a little. But there are many variables at play here and i'd only tune the vehicle to the surface and traction levels where you'll be racing and/or driving. The slipper floors are like driving on ice, so I would attribute the inconsistent results to the lack of traction. -Brett
Making check the driveshafts and make sure there is no binding in the bearings or hubs? If those are not spinning freely, that could cause some wonky left/right behavior. -Brett
I had the exact same rear spin out on fast turns and at first I dialed out steering (running rear proline pyramids) and then someone recommended running the Schumacher Cactus tires (smaller pins) and it completely fixed it to where I could put back all of the steering to original! HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT!
Bah, you could always eyeball the camber by tire wear pattern, not to mention that you still have the recommended turnbuckle lengths from the manual/base setup... Could have saved you the $13 for the Exotek top shaft right there. 😁 But your Math was, Uh... Interesting, in order to stay on budget, haha.
The turnbuckles were set to the length described in the turnbuckle assembly of the manual, but they were a little off from -1 and -2 setup sheet recommendation. -Brett
Awesome vid Brett. As usual. Though this video just makes me mad. I want to get into racing buggies so bad but not on my budget! Ah some day. Dream a Little Dream. Again, great video man.
Hold your vehicle vertically, with the front down on the table, and the rear of car pointing to the sky. Now use your camber gauge to measure the front toe. -Brett
Yeah, we used the Prism in the front: www.amainhobbies.com/proline-prism-2.2-2wd-front-buggy-premounted-carpet-tires-white-2-z3-pro8278-13/p1007687?v=997164 And the Pyramid in the rear: www.amainhobbies.com/proline-pyramid-2.2-rear-buggy-premounted-carpet-tires-white-2-z3-pro8267-13/p982470?v=977034 We later changed to these Cactus on the rear: www.amainhobbies.com/schumacher-cactus-2.2-rear-1-10-buggy-premounted-carpet-tire-2-yellow-schu6839/p700369?v=697580 -Brett
I can't say which combo is best, but these are the most popular purchased combos: Tekin RS Gen3: www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-rs-gen3-spec-sensored-brushless-esc-gen4-spec-r-motor-combo-17.5t-tektt2792/p1216097 Reedy Sonic S-Plus: www.amainhobbies.com/reedy-blackbox-800z-esc-sonic-splus-brushless-motor-system-17.5t-asc27402c/p784836 Hobbywing XR10: www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xr10-pro-stock-spec-2s-sensored-brushless-esc-v10-g3r-combo-17.5t-hwa38020308/p1148467
I am following these videos and trying to build the same buggy. The Exotek Flite Top Shaft you have listed says it is "discontinued" on your site. ...is there a replacement that does the same job and still allows the fan to be mounted in the corner of the rear (rather than butted up against the lexan on the side)?
Hmm, the top shaft shows in stock but I see the blue spur mount is discontinued; is that what you meant? The black mount is still available: www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-flite-ultra-light-direct-spur-mount-black-exo1726blk/p581334 -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thanks, yes the blue one is discontinued, but just after I posted this comment I found that you carry the same part in black. All good. Keep up the awesome videos, loving them and I am following your build w/ my own!
Proline Pyramids are not good under power on corner exits, I’ve had the same problem with the rear breaking away. If you used some prisms or Schumacher cactus on the carpet you’d find this happen a whole lot less.
I just purchased the exotek slipper eliminator and the top flight shaft according to this video and I can’t see how it fits. A detailed video would be very helpful. I’m lost
The new top shaft will replace the old top shaft, and then the eliminator mount bolts to the new top shaft. Have you already opened up the transmission? -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies yes I have. The new top shaft is shorter than the old one and the long bolt that comes with the eliminator is not long enough. I wish I could FaceTime. I really need help. I bought everything in your video series for the b6
@@Gazelle0078 Long bolt? There is no long bolt included, unless you bought the eliminator designed to be used with the original top shaft (EXO1851). If this is the case, just use the eliminator with the stock top shaft, and return the Exotek Top Shaft? We used EXO1726, which requires the EXO1867 top shaft. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies here’s what I have. Exotek 1867 flite shaft, Kimbrough 72 tooth gear and exotek 1851 direct spur mount. What an email I can send pics to ?
Brad,for the Arrma Big Rock on 5200mah & 3S BLX-80C, In 100° Florida heat,what would you say is the best & 2nd best fan that will fit,for cooling the motor & ESC ??? Btw ?, What temperature is safe for running without burning up my electronics ? Run time 30 min.
Try to avoid getting over 170°F on the motor and ESC. If you can put your finger on the motor and leave it there for a good 2-3 seconds, you're ok. If you can't leave your finger on it, it's too hot. For fans, get one or two of these: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-30x30x10mm-aluminum-high-speed-hv-cooling-fan-silver-black-ptk-2111/p995313 Or this one: www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-racing-30x30x10mm-aluminum-tornado-plus-high-speed-cooling-fan-yea-ya-0472bk/p529891 Hope that helps. -Brett
That was your first time with that car on that track!??? actually I thought that was extremely impressive Of course I haven't been to a race in over 20 years but still. I've never driven off road on carpet either I would like to see what I could do and that looked way faster than a 17 turn. I live in North Idaho I need to find a track like that
It's been great so far and no complaints. The power delivery is really smooth and programming with the box seems easy enough, although I've never done it. I wouldn't say it's better or worse than the other top competition ESC's, but it's a great option. -Brett
It depends, but only if you want to use your B6.2D on carpet. Otherwise, if you are driving on clay or dirt, you would want to follow the setup sheet located in the back of your B6.2D manual. -Brett
30wt oil front and rear? That doesn’t sound right at all, especially on a carpet track like that. If you want more steering and better off power rotation then reduce the rear toe, and lower the inner front camber link.
Are you going to be racing, or is this just for fun? If for racing, what class will you be racing; 17.5T stock, or modified? There are a lot of electronics available, so you have many options. -Brett
I wouldn't race much because I dont really have any tracks near me. I also have a 7.5T sensored brushless Novak velociti that I dont have a clue if still works or not
Here are some great all-around electronics: EcoPower 120T Servo: www.amainhobbies.com/ecopower-wp120t-coreless-waterproof-high-torque-metal-gear-digital-servo-ecp-120t/p734714 Hobbywing 17.5T Motor & ESC Combo: www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xr10-justock-sensored-brushless-esc-sd-g2.1-motor-combo-17.5t-hwa38020241/p784984 Common Sense 2S LiPo: www.amainhobbies.com/common-sense-rc-lectron-pro-2s-35c-lipo-battery-w-tstyle-7.4v-5200mah-csd2s5200-35d/p545327 T-Style Connectors: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-tstyle-ultra-plugs-2-male-2-female-ptk-5004/p14565 The ESC would need the T-Style connector soldered on, so that's why I added a link to the connector. -Brett
Sorry man, it's on hold. We're working from home, the track is closed down and things are tough right now, so it's on hold. I'm only able to get in the studio briefly to film and this build series is a bit more intensive to wrench and film. Hopefully we can get back to it soon. -Brett
Great video! Had exactly the same experience buying that top shaft and forgetting that I also have to order the spur gear mount. And then it is only compatible with a Kimbrough spur gear, not the factory ones. I'm looking at the AE one for our other car, since it uses a standard spur gear. Since this build is for carpet I'm curious if you are concerned about stripping the idler gear. Even though it is for stock 17.5, Team Associated has a warning that a direct drive is "not recommended for carpet." They go on to say they are not responsible for damaged or broken idler gears. www.associatedelectrics.com/factoryteam/parts/details/91800-ASC91800-b6_1_ft_direct_drive_kit/
They are probably trying to cover themselves. I think they had some issues with idler gears in the past, but there are too many guys using these lockouts with few issues in the newest gearboxes. There are a lot of variables to stripping an idler, like how hard you drive and how hard you're on the throttle as the car lands from a jump. And inevitably, idler gears go bad no matter what. It's a give and take situation, and as a competitor, I choose to sacrifice a little durability to maximize performance and efficiency. To play it safe and ensure we don't strip an idler while leading a race, it's good to start a schedule where the idler is replaced every 2 hours, 5 hours, or whatever time you want, of use; this is how the pros would do it. -Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Follow up question. Why did you choose the Exotek over the Team Associated one? Was one lighter or stronger than the other? I have the Exotek in one car and deciding which one to go with in our second car.
I know a another YT on here who has a Team Associated buggy, he made a video about cooling and managing temps. But he placed the motor fan on the/a battery mount (i think) and there is plenty of room for the fan and it doesn't scratch/rub up against the body. Here's the link to his video: th-cam.com/video/mjPA-iE8DWg/w-d-xo.html. Great vid btw 😁!
Awh that's sweet. Having the fan on the battery brace gives the fan plenty of room to breathe and it's oriented in the same direction as the airflow under the body. Great placement. Thanks for sharing. -Brett
Brett this video just might have the power to be one of the best videos you've made to date!
This dude reminds me of that little kid in speed racer all grown up. You could be a hobby ambassador mate!
He gets better with every video.
@@Wicuscriz I think he is already
Love the self-deprecating humor. We all make mistakes -- like forgetting to end with table bongos.
Thank you for the smiles, humour and for producing this given everything else. It lifted my mood.
Thanks for the shout out Brett! Most fast guys at Norcal are running 13 or 14mm ride height and -2 degrees of camber. Im curious of how much more your temp will drop with the new location. I also geared down but am finally running in the 130 degree area. Also, as long as you use quality servo tape like the clear 3M stuff and clean the chassis and fan surfaces the fan sticks real strong! I also cut the body a bit back there to allow more air flow! Love the wall ride on that track! Also carpet tires seem to lose their grip pretty quick. I went to the pro-line pre-glued wedge front and pyramid rear and its on rails! Also im running lots of brass. The brass front bulkhead should help your steering a bunch!
Good tips!
-Brett
If you end up not liking the slipper eliminator try the Avid or Schelle set up. that's what I use on my B6.1.
Man that thing looks like it’s hauling butt!
Awesome, awesome, awesome! Love to see you guys giving us racers the info we wana know! You guys just keep doin' what you're doin', I'll be here to watch!
Brett, I think up-ing the diff oil should help you with spin-out around the corners.
I'd like to see an experiment where you exhaust the hot air vs intake the cool air. Exhaust has a tendency to be more efficient. I'm wondering if that holds true here.
Handles really well, and those jumps were *smoooooth*
Longer chassis makes it harder for back end to let loose in the corners, but longer chassis makes it easier to drive on long straight aways. Also go with the shorter rear arms and driveshafts to make the back end really swing free.
Lol! Knew the budget would be blown 🤣 I love the justification, everyone does that 😉
Yo ho Bret. Thank you amain hobbies for doing these videos. I have no place to run & no hobby stores to go to. Guess that's why I. Buy from the best store around. Thank you. My closest store is 2 hours. Can't wait for next video. 👍👍👍
Really enjoy your videos.
I recently purchased RC10B6.1DL on sale from you at AMain. Good discount because B6.2 is now on sale. Great Buggy. Really fun to drive.
Mine spins also. Tested on smooth hardwood floor for consistancy. Out of 20 test hits. It when straight 4 times, spun right 2 and spun 14 times to left.
Ride height & alignment are symmetrical and in spec. Swapped rear tires left to right. Thought small chance they’re different in some manner. Plus ensured steering returned to center before each test. No change in results.
I believe diff is out of wack or case twisted. I think your buggy has gear diff?, mine is ball. So it’s weird we’d have the same problem. Or maybe yours spins equally left and right. Could you test yours? I just bought some more diff lube from you. So I’ll rebuild the diff and flip it over. Currently the tension adjustment screw is on left side and tension spring on right (the side with too much power). I’ll see if power follows diff orientation or stays with case.
Manual says to bottomout spring and back off 1/8th turn. I made this adjustment twice with no help. Then tried 1/2 and diff works much smoother but power is still unequal.
I raced RC10T back in ‘91 or 92 forgot the exact year. I do remember it always worked better for me with loose diff. And I RC drifted for a several years when I lived in Japan. I always setup loose diff. Although some use a spool.
Thanks
Never experienced the weird unequal distribution of power.
It may just be your trims are off a little. But there are many variables at play here and i'd only tune the vehicle to the surface and traction levels where you'll be racing and/or driving. The slipper floors are like driving on ice, so I would attribute the inconsistent results to the lack of traction.
-Brett
Thanks for reply.
Making check the driveshafts and make sure there is no binding in the bearings or hubs? If those are not spinning freely, that could cause some wonky left/right behavior.
-Brett
Glad to see a roller start to build up to a professional race machines. Very nice video Amain😎🔥👌👍
drill vent holes in body shellso fan can pull air in
Awesome vid! Love this series and seeing you out there Wednesday night. I was out there flipping all the cars for you guys haha.
Awesome man, thanks for your help out there. Volunteer turn marshals are always appreciated.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Car or no car, just love being at the track!
I had the exact same rear spin out on fast turns and at first I dialed out steering (running rear proline pyramids) and then someone recommended running the Schumacher Cactus tires (smaller pins) and it completely fixed it to where I could put back all of the steering to original! HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT!
would love to see this series with the Tamiya TT-02
Hi Brett, would love to have seen it the second time with level dog bones 🦴 you definitely have rc racing skills man 😎👍👍👍
Bah, you could always eyeball the camber by tire wear pattern, not to mention that you still have the recommended turnbuckle lengths from the manual/base setup... Could have saved you the $13 for the Exotek top shaft right there. 😁 But your Math was, Uh... Interesting, in order to stay on budget, haha.
The turnbuckles were set to the length described in the turnbuckle assembly of the manual, but they were a little off from -1 and -2 setup sheet recommendation.
-Brett
Awesome vid Brett. As usual. Though this video just makes me mad. I want to get into racing buggies so bad but not on my budget! Ah some day. Dream a Little Dream. Again, great video man.
I concur.....2wd Buggy was my first love in rc.......but for the price, you may as well go 4wd to get all the "bang for your buck"....
I've had a fan taped to the chassis on my B6 for a long time and I crash a lot but the fan is still there.
Hi... understood well how you set the ride height & cambers.... what about the front toe out??? how I can do that without a setup station???
Hold your vehicle vertically, with the front down on the table, and the rear of car pointing to the sky. Now use your camber gauge to measure the front toe.
-Brett
Great video but can you please send me a link to the tyres that you used please and were is that track
Yeah, we used the Prism in the front: www.amainhobbies.com/proline-prism-2.2-2wd-front-buggy-premounted-carpet-tires-white-2-z3-pro8278-13/p1007687?v=997164
And the Pyramid in the rear: www.amainhobbies.com/proline-pyramid-2.2-rear-buggy-premounted-carpet-tires-white-2-z3-pro8267-13/p982470?v=977034
We later changed to these Cactus on the rear: www.amainhobbies.com/schumacher-cactus-2.2-rear-1-10-buggy-premounted-carpet-tire-2-yellow-schu6839/p700369?v=697580
-Brett
Quick question....no penny un-spent! Hands down best ESC/Motor Combo 17.5T/ 2S?
I can't say which combo is best, but these are the most popular purchased combos:
Tekin RS Gen3: www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-rs-gen3-spec-sensored-brushless-esc-gen4-spec-r-motor-combo-17.5t-tektt2792/p1216097
Reedy Sonic S-Plus: www.amainhobbies.com/reedy-blackbox-800z-esc-sonic-splus-brushless-motor-system-17.5t-asc27402c/p784836
Hobbywing XR10: www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xr10-pro-stock-spec-2s-sensored-brushless-esc-v10-g3r-combo-17.5t-hwa38020308/p1148467
3:25 man i lost my mind a bit hahaha, was not expecting that hehe
I am following these videos and trying to build the same buggy. The Exotek Flite Top Shaft you have listed says it is "discontinued" on your site. ...is there a replacement that does the same job and still allows the fan to be mounted in the corner of the rear (rather than butted up against the lexan on the side)?
Hmm, the top shaft shows in stock but I see the blue spur mount is discontinued; is that what you meant? The black mount is still available: www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-flite-ultra-light-direct-spur-mount-black-exo1726blk/p581334
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thanks, yes the blue one is discontinued, but just after I posted this comment I found that you carry the same part in black. All good. Keep up the awesome videos, loving them and I am following your build w/ my own!
...yes sorry, meant "spur mount" in my original post.
Your good on camera my man
Enjoyed the video, hope to make it down there some time from Oregon.I was wondering if you are going to check the front toe?
Awh, good point. Eye balling it, it looks 0. But the kit setup sheet recommended a degree out, which we haven't done. Maybe next time.
-Brett
Proline Pyramids are not good under power on corner exits, I’ve had the same problem with the rear breaking away. If you used some prisms or Schumacher cactus on the carpet you’d find this happen a whole lot less.
Good tips Glen! I'll have to give them a try.
-Brett
I just purchased the exotek slipper eliminator and the top flight shaft according to this video and I can’t see how it fits. A detailed video would be very helpful. I’m lost
The new top shaft will replace the old top shaft, and then the eliminator mount bolts to the new top shaft. Have you already opened up the transmission?
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies yes I have. The new top shaft is shorter than the old one and the long bolt that comes with the eliminator is not long enough. I wish I could FaceTime. I really need help. I bought everything in your video series for the b6
@@Gazelle0078 Long bolt? There is no long bolt included, unless you bought the eliminator designed to be used with the original top shaft (EXO1851). If this is the case, just use the eliminator with the stock top shaft, and return the Exotek Top Shaft?
We used EXO1726, which requires the EXO1867 top shaft.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies here’s what I have. Exotek 1867 flite shaft, Kimbrough 72 tooth gear and exotek 1851 direct spur mount. What an email I can send pics to ?
So if I use the original shaft that means I won’t be able to move the fan back like u did in the video will I ?
Brad,for the Arrma Big Rock on 5200mah & 3S BLX-80C, In 100° Florida heat,what would you say is the best & 2nd best fan that will fit,for cooling the motor & ESC ??? Btw ?, What temperature is safe for running without burning up my electronics ? Run time 30 min.
Try to avoid getting over 170°F on the motor and ESC. If you can put your finger on the motor and leave it there for a good 2-3 seconds, you're ok. If you can't leave your finger on it, it's too hot. For fans, get one or two of these: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-30x30x10mm-aluminum-high-speed-hv-cooling-fan-silver-black-ptk-2111/p995313
Or this one: www.amainhobbies.com/yeah-racing-30x30x10mm-aluminum-tornado-plus-high-speed-cooling-fan-yea-ya-0472bk/p529891
Hope that helps.
-Brett
Was that a pic of AMain's desktop pc ?
Can you use the stock spur gear with the exotek slipper eliminator?
No, it is not compatible.
-Brett
Could you possibly do step by step videos on the upgrades that you did?
We'll probably cover all the upgrades and costs in the last video for a grand total. Is that what you mean?
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies meaning how to install parts.
I am also having problems with my slipper eliminator and top shaft. I could really use help.
I could really use some help bret.
Wow that is fast
I just bought a part from your website
Sweet man! Thanks for visiting our shop.
-Brett
With your budget one could assume a racer would already have a camber and ride height gauge!
True, but we honestly did not.
-Brett
That was your first time with that car on that track!??? actually I thought that was extremely impressive Of course I haven't been to a race in over 20 years but still. I've never driven off road on carpet either I would like to see what I could do and that looked way faster than a 17 turn. I live in North Idaho I need to find a track like that
Excellent as always bret.......B74 critique?
Would love to try one, but sadly haven't yet. Looks like a great buggy though. 4WD is always a blast!
-Brett
Was the timing box stock or advanced a bit??
That's a great question. We didn't check it, although this motor and ESC came out of a previous build, but I believe it is box stock.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies thx I got one from amain last month and it was 40degrees 2.3 amps , super cool to the touch no matter how hard I pushed it. Great motor
What about those temps brett. Lol
That corner where you spinned out my rb7 gets loose when I accelerate out of that corner hard
How do you guys like the Maclan mmx pico esc? I need a esc for 17.5 buggy class. Thanks
It's been great so far and no complaints. The power delivery is really smooth and programming with the box seems easy enough, although I've never done it. I wouldn't say it's better or worse than the other top competition ESC's, but it's a great option.
-Brett
just bought the 6.2d yesterday, would your set up for the 6.2 work for the 6.2d as well?
It depends, but only if you want to use your B6.2D on carpet. Otherwise, if you are driving on clay or dirt, you would want to follow the setup sheet located in the back of your B6.2D manual.
-Brett
Greats car 👍👍👍😍
30wt oil front and rear? That doesn’t sound right at all, especially on a carpet track like that. If you want more steering and better off power rotation then reduce the rear toe, and lower the inner front camber link.
I’ve noticed the ride height issue on my sc6.1
Well man, sometimes you have make your shaft to shaft the.... ok lets keep this PG...
Good series but include a run AFTER the mods 👍
Try the proline pyramids
Lmao 🤣 Great video! Dude cracks me up 😂
I am beginning to build a yokomo b-max2 and I do not know what electronics to use, I need help.
Are you going to be racing, or is this just for fun? If for racing, what class will you be racing; 17.5T stock, or modified? There are a lot of electronics available, so you have many options.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies it is mainly for fun, but I would probably be racing every great once in a while
I wouldn't race much because I dont really have any tracks near me. I also have a 7.5T sensored brushless Novak velociti that I dont have a clue if still works or not
Here are some great all-around electronics:
EcoPower 120T Servo: www.amainhobbies.com/ecopower-wp120t-coreless-waterproof-high-torque-metal-gear-digital-servo-ecp-120t/p734714
Hobbywing 17.5T Motor & ESC Combo: www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xr10-justock-sensored-brushless-esc-sd-g2.1-motor-combo-17.5t-hwa38020241/p784984
Common Sense 2S LiPo: www.amainhobbies.com/common-sense-rc-lectron-pro-2s-35c-lipo-battery-w-tstyle-7.4v-5200mah-csd2s5200-35d/p545327
T-Style Connectors: www.amainhobbies.com/protek-rc-tstyle-ultra-plugs-2-male-2-female-ptk-5004/p14565
The ESC would need the T-Style connector soldered on, so that's why I added a link to the connector.
-Brett
Hope that helps, and let me know what you think.
-Brett
i like this car
When does part 3 comes???
When the lockdown ends and our facility opens back up.
-Brett
Amain should have you do full point series videos following your trials and tribulations with it! I miss racing so bad right now! :(
when is part 3?
Sorry man, it's on hold. We're working from home, the track is closed down and things are tough right now, so it's on hold. I'm only able to get in the studio briefly to film and this build series is a bit more intensive to wrench and film. Hopefully we can get back to it soon.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Thank you!
I servo tape my fan there on my buggy to
When does the next build episode drop?
Hopefully soon, when the lockdown ends and our facilities open back up.
-Brett
AMain Hobbies looking forward to it!
Anyone else notice the axle height insert in the rear hub wearing exceptionally fast with the 6.2?
Haven't heard anyone mention that, but I've heard some guys glue those inserts in place; front and back.
-Brett
6.2d manual shows 1mm ballstud washers
Anyone waiting for the 3rd episode Becase I am XD
You would have been better off cutting vent holes in the body than to try relocating the fan.
Do a short course truck build series!!!!
😊🤙🇦🇺🍻
Ah screw the budget... 👀
Great video! Had exactly the same experience buying that top shaft and forgetting that I also have to order the spur gear mount. And then it is only compatible with a Kimbrough spur gear, not the factory ones. I'm looking at the AE one for our other car, since it uses a standard spur gear. Since this build is for carpet I'm curious if you are concerned about stripping the idler gear. Even though it is for stock 17.5, Team Associated has a warning that a direct drive is "not recommended for carpet." They go on to say they are not responsible for damaged or broken idler gears. www.associatedelectrics.com/factoryteam/parts/details/91800-ASC91800-b6_1_ft_direct_drive_kit/
They are probably trying to cover themselves. I think they had some issues with idler gears in the past, but there are too many guys using these lockouts with few issues in the newest gearboxes. There are a lot of variables to stripping an idler, like how hard you drive and how hard you're on the throttle as the car lands from a jump. And inevitably, idler gears go bad no matter what. It's a give and take situation, and as a competitor, I choose to sacrifice a little durability to maximize performance and efficiency. To play it safe and ensure we don't strip an idler while leading a race, it's good to start a schedule where the idler is replaced every 2 hours, 5 hours, or whatever time you want, of use; this is how the pros would do it.
-Brett
@@AMain_Hobbies Follow up question. Why did you choose the Exotek over the Team Associated one? Was one lighter or stronger than the other? I have the Exotek in one car and deciding which one to go with in our second car.
When’s the next video??
Hopefully when our facilities open back up after the lockdown.
-Brett
I know a another YT on here who has a Team Associated buggy, he made a video about cooling and managing temps.
But he placed the motor fan on the/a battery mount (i think) and there is plenty of room for the fan and it doesn't scratch/rub up against the body. Here's the link to his video: th-cam.com/video/mjPA-iE8DWg/w-d-xo.html. Great vid btw 😁!
Awh that's sweet. Having the fan on the battery brace gives the fan plenty of room to breathe and it's oriented in the same direction as the airflow under the body. Great placement. Thanks for sharing.
-Brett
@@AMain_HobbiesNo problem, happy to help!
Driver skills to fan unplugged???????????????????????????? What
Just another sales pitch.
Great car, ugly body.