I also agree. I have the 7 and it's a blast to fly. I also upgraded to the more durable frame (2s) without noticing any real difference in the flight, and it actually flies better IMHO. Thumbs up on your comment.
I've had the Cylinder of those motors (Mobula6) seperate from the top very frequently. Had to squeeze them back together and use tiny amount of superglue to secure them.
Bro, just got the betafpv cetus bundle, within an hr, landed in my kids pool, got it out, unplugged and with the luck of the gods and a hair dryer, it still works lol, 7 drones later lol 😆 It's a bit scared but she still flies lol
bi blade props allow the motors to spin faster at a lower relative current draw. i wish back yarders would respect that this is engineering and the designers wouldve done the calcs and worked out the best performance for this setup is through using the config that it comes with.
Has anyone compared this whoop to the BetaFPV Meteor65 Pro? Which is better? The Meteor seems to have larger props and stronger motors, a bit lighter as well if I'm not wrong.
I was wondering if you could put together a video that would describe the 3 components that you would package together, if bought separately, a beginner system, like the little whoop style for 4k FPV. I want to experience FPV flying, but I'm still not sure that prepackaged kits are the answer? I want to fly mostly indoors, but that's not to say that I won't use it outside. I watch tons of your vids so I respect your advice, but I'm still not sure what to get. I'm not afraid to spend a little extra for quality, but it still should be reasonably priced. BTW if you recognize this question, I asked it on another one of your Videos, lol...I'm sometimes a bit impatient. Thank you for all of your content, it is invaluable to newbies like me.
The optional canopy doesn't hold the FC in horizonally and you will pop out the FC from the side stand offs. A small slice of business card or cereal box cardboard from left to right posts will hold it together really well and stiffen up the frame a bit. Very noticeable difference in smoothness.
I really like my mob 7 elrs 1s - it actually gets better range than my geprc cinelog35 600mw vtx drone that I lost due to bad visuals last week. (I had GPS but it wasn't logging on my controller)
I always had bell slipping on all my different 0802,0603 and 0703 motors. Unibell are great. It’s not the prop guard that prevent that. I had a frame where the lipo was tuck in so when you land or disarm all for motors hit at the same time the concrete. This impact made the bell slip.
Like I show to joshua I have a full box of dead motor with more sliding magnet issue than slidding bell... But yes meteor frame with lower motor than battery can act like inertia hammer.
Great video. Again. And you threw out a teaser statement that this is not necessarily good for indoor freestyle which is what I would be interested in. Need a round up on that category. It definitely would be fun. Thanks again for making us learn something today!
Hello Joshua! Your videos are just great! Thanks for producing such good content. I want to tell you that the Meteor65 2022 edition has been recently released. Would be great to watch your review! Greetings from Argentina!
The motors on my Mobula6 ALWAYS seperate. i have to put them back together at least twice a sesh. How could the two part motors possibly be better for cooling? Unibell has bigger holes and the solid mass allows the heat to transfer easier. Am I missing something?
how does this FC compare to the HappyModel X12 board? The X12 has a ceramic ELRS antenna, and UFL connector. 1-2s, 400mw apparently does 12a continuous
Also worth noting: The provided new 'old style' canopy does NOT include the sling to hold the camera within it. And the new 3D printed canopy does NOT fit on the meteor 65 frames. You will have to use the old style canopy or mod the frame somehow to use the together.
Hello Joshua I recently bought the mobeetle6 watching your video I found it very interesting but I have a problem with the video that I see in black and white with my glasses, it only happens to me with the mobeetle6 with the other drones I can see fine but the videos are recorded in color ...it's crazy. Any suggestions....
quick note: the canopy provided is NOT the standard Mobula 6 canopy, it's the new type, also available on the Mobula 7 1S, which has FOUR mounting points instead of just THREE as on the Mobula 6
Yes ... but I think you are a bit confused. Currently there are MoBEETLE, MobLITE and MobuLA. What Josh review here is MoBEETLE6 with different 3d print canopy, 0702 motors and DIAMOND FC F4 aio. Back in the day where the 1st mobula released it only 75mm and the canopy actualy represent of Mobula fish.
@@eedok hmm ... what I know from official release HM site the 4 point plastic canopy is for mobula7 while the 3 point plastic canopy is for mobula6 however both are interchangeable. The 3D print canopy low profile style is for moblite6/7 and the 3D print "beetles" style is for mobeetle6 and no official mobeetle7 yet at the moment. All of those canopies surely interchangable for standard whoop.
@@gonebdg I’m referring to the hard plastic canopy provided as optional with the mobeetle, which JB said it’s the “standard Mobula 6”. it’s not, as per my original comment. I’m not confused nor confusing. you are 😂
I love this thing, got it as my first whoop. Throttle center at 60 percent and some expo made it way easier to fly, I also put the rates on 550 deg/s! Simulators are so handy to find out great settings.
@@DonJohnsonFPV have you made any videos on this? I would love to learn more. I have been using expo it gave me more mid stick control, but I could also lower my rates…
@@DonJohnsonFPV Kinda makes sense, I don't want any mouse acceleration enabled when I play a shooting game as well. I can notice it instantly. Ideal would be full linear with that thought process. I'll be experimenting.
@@fpvcruzer I totaly disagree, expo make your mid stick absolutely unptedictable. no video needed, just use the less possible expo with the slowest rate possible. And once used to these setting remove even more expo...
@@DonJohnsonFPV thanks for the reply. I meant lowering my rates instead of expo :) and I am going to follow your suggestion in order to see if I like that better. Always more to learn.
just curious. Why can't you use regular wire for the wire antenna as opposed to standard bus wire? What does the coating do for the signal in laymen terms?
Hi. Could you help me please. On my Meteor65 and other tiny drone one of the motors when i do Arm is starting a bit latter than others and disbalance the drone. When it flies you don't feel it but i would like to fix it if possible. Any idea what might cause this and how to fix? Thanks!
Ok, i didn't fly quads for like a year, all i know that happened was digital fatshark, what did i miss. I mean mobula 6, ye i have one of those, what is a diamond f6? This is great
Have you tried the Mobula6 ELRS version? It comes with ELRS (ceramic antenna) and 400mw OpenVTX. It's a solid, reliable FC. The only criticism is that they paired a heavier build with the 0702 motors, which were designed for a lighter build like the Mobeetle.
ah somebody had a similar idea as I just had ... grin ... take best of both ... bigger motor, bigger vtx and the elrs ... (and the "over" power maybe could lift a bigger battery to have longer fun?!?)
Yeah the mobula 6 elrs is a problem honestly, WAY WAY WAY TOO SLOW. I made another comment bringing JBs attention to the fact that the mobula he showed is no longer for sale.
@@avgvstvs96 Well, the Mobula6 is still available, but it is the V2. It is the same as the original except the new gyro and they switched the VTX to OpenVTX. The Mob6 ELRS isn't slow per se, but the 702 motors don't do as well with the extra weight of the heavier FC and canopy. If you switch those out to 802 or 603 motors, it rips. For now, it is my preferred FC.
How far do people really take a whoop though I mean honestly most of the time you need that wattage in the VTX for penetration not really range so much at least from what I've seen and my experience and my usage experience
Lovely video, i can tell you put a load of time and effort into this so well done 👊👌 i like how you actually raced it aswell, a lot of product reviews for 65mm's are just flying around the house and that's not all that helpfull if you need to figure out sag etc :) thankyou jb 👍
this seems very similar to the flywoo 1s baby nano, can you compare against this one? One of my complains on this flywoo is that it doesn't have prop guards and I've broke a lot of motor shafts... I have to see if its possible to fix them, I didn't want to buy more motors for it for now. I'm now using the last 4 motors I have and I just don't use turtle mode to make them last longer lool
@@avgvstvs96 this happens on both my open vtx boards, Happy Model and Flywoo , and my Happy Model AIO x12. It isn’t a deal breaker for me because I do not race, and I continue to purchase open vtx to help support the project. Interesting that it doesn’t happen to you though and I am curious what the difference may be, may be something in the settings?
Another great video Josh! I love tiny whoops. They are so nuch fun and inexpensive to run. What tiny whoop is your go to so far? Do you like the nitro necktor better then the 450mAh ones with the bt2.0 conectors from betafpv?
I strongly disagree on the statement that the split bell motors are better than unibell. If you swap to the Meteor65 frame, as many of us do, you’re landing on the motor screws instead of landing on the battery - this causes more downward force on the motors and increases the tendency to slip the bell. I personally avoid split bell motors at all cost. For anyone looking at emuflight, I strongly recommend looking into Quicksilver. While it may not have all the features, it is has significantly improved flight performance, especially with whoops, when compared to Betaflight.
@@JoshuaBardwell Flight controllers are limited, yes, but pretty much every whoop FC is supported, with more being added all the time (I just flashed an old omnibus F4 to run it on 5” as well). As for ELRS, they’ve had it working since late 1.x. All my race whoops are running QS + ELRS, some SPI and some serial RX. I highly recommend revisiting it!
Love your videos JB. I think people are missing a trick with the carbon frame. Lots of people in the world live in urban environments or other compact living scenarios. A 65-80mm carbon frame allows you to rip balls outside with a lot of the freestyle characteristics of much larger quads. They’re so much fun and flyable. And the crucial thing is they’re so quiet it’s much harder to disturb others or draw attention. Yes a toothpick style 2s etc will fly a little better but everything bigger is louder. Flying “under the radar” is really useful nowadays.
Sweet. I've been flying these for a few weeks now.. they're great. Dump the canopy - it lets the camera wobble, and doesn't protect the copper aerials... the included old style canopy has four points.. no jello, and shrouds those aerials. Put it in a meteor frame. It'll be indestructible. Stick a bt2.0 connector on and use some betaflight batteries. I suspect Angry Don is just a little bitter because he didn't expect such a commercial trade off. That's fair. I can understand that. But I can also see why HM wanted to offer something a little more than another, lighter whoop. They already had a superlight ELRS 65 whoop.. so they needed to spend money on a gimmick to differentiate this, and I guess that was the carbon frame..
I'm bitter cause it can have been sub 16g, but it's 17.5g, it can have better cam but no it's worst than what we have 2 years ago, it can have molded canopy but no they prefer to use my worst design... the included other canopy didn't come with cam holder... Meteor frame is durable but is a notorious motor killer cause lower motor than battery and duct lack of rigidity... And please no BT2.0 on such a efficient quad !!!
@@DonJohnsonFPV great response! Appreciated! I mentioned the cam sling in another comment. That was a bummer, and a total oversight in my opinion as it makes the canopy useless to many. I need the bt2.0 because I thrash the shit out of my quads :/. The included connector always goes to shit for me with loose connection. Same reason why I feel OK to weigh mine down with the canopy and meteor frame - I need durability over slight performance. Haven't burned a motor yet on 4 drones though. Maybe I'm lucky. But I have several completely shredded mobula frames so maybe I'm unlucky instead! Usually they break at the tray and at the duct standoffs :s What cam would you have recommended? I thought this cam was pretty well liked?
@@big-smoke-rc better FPV Cam would be "Caddx Ant Lite" or "Foxeer Pico Razer" (haven't tested the Foxeer one, but the Ant & Ant Lite are much much better than the RunCam Nano3. and it's also quite good in low light (normal Ant is little bit better, in low light)
Indestructible. Just wait for the next AIO esc to blow. I love micros, but I can't even count how many little dead boards I've already accumulated. It was too expensive. Nowadays I only fly toothpicks because 12A esc's are reliable. BTW foxeer pico razer is the best whoop cam I'v found (I dont like runcam nano or caddx ant). Then comes ratel nano 2 for the toothpicks, and finally runcam phoenix nano 2 for the bigger ones. Also I would advice to use PAL, as the extra NTSC refreshrate doesn't show up in the googles thanks to the mild ghosting effect of the LCD's.... on the computer screen it's another story as PAL uses to playback poorly when converted to digital.
@@DonJohnsonFPV I like Pico razer camera. Wich canopy would you recommend for such a micro? Also, do you have any advice to stop burning more aio boards? Merci
Hi Josh Great video and review of the Mobeetle 6is is great. And yes this is the beast F.C for your micro's right now. And is the reason why I have been thinking about switching a Crossfire transmitter for a ELRS transmitter. I hade a set of Mobilly gates that I have been practicing with my mobula 6. I like your track and yes nitronector is the best batteries. I can't wait to see you have Blunty over for a race. I need to build a new mobula 6, using the new F.C and the Caddx ant. I think I would stay with the 25,000kv and turn it down in Betaflight this way if I ever get good enough to fly without hitting something LOL Thanks again for the video and information.
Just got the mobula7 the esc no.1 firmware says yyyyyyyyy-yyyyyyyy the others are correct firmware drone flips on take off motor one starts and stops , you cannot flash esc on Blheli the flash button is whited out anyway to fix the esc or flash esc another way
@@661FPV I've lost 3 ceramic antennas in past 5 months. Replaced with a piece of wire. I've not lost any of these or the ones on the diamond ELRS boards yet.
I disagree wholeheartedly with Don's point about the unibells not mattering. Every set of Happmodel 0802 motors I've ever gotten on a Mobula6 have split, usually within the first few packs. That probably has more to do with HM's manufacturing though as I've not had those problems with BetaFpv or Newbeedrone motors.
@@dubzsquaredfpv7171 this is very true. I removed my betafpv motors from my mobula frame and I put them on a mosquito frame to give them a fare chance. I believe the problem is coming from the frame of the mobula. I need to slightly bend the wire connections to the motor housing and this may cause the problem.
I wonder if it would be better with a different battery connector. I've been running the bt2.0 on a very similar build and it seems to perform a lot better
the ph2.0 is all thats necessary on a whoop as long as it's solid pin. the crimped pin ones are definitely not good enough, but the sold pins are all you need with no extra weight. bt2.0 and gnb27 add too much extra weight and the connectors are SO expensive that I feel like it's so important that we generally boycott buying them until they start selling 100 packs for $20 not 5 connectors for $10 like the bt2 and gnb27 jokes, imagine having to spend $40 to convert all your batteries? anything that really needs more than a ph2.o should go straight to xt30s
Pretty fantastic flying and review, Joshua! 😃 Maybe I repeat it too much... But I definitely mean it! This little quad is sweet! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Greetings sir I must commend you an the quality work that you have been doing... I have a problem that I think only you can help me solve . I just purchase a mamba mk4 h743 FC for a 7 inch build but it's just not arming in beta flight, the error is rxloss and I have change the receiver not once but twice from working quads so I know it's not the receiver l also updated the firmware and it's the same thing.. the radio is running edgetx and the receiver is elrs... I really don't know what's really happening... so any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Some things to check. In the ports tab in Betaflight is serial rx checked on the correct number uart? Also in BF, is the receiver type set to serial and the protocol se to CRSF. Make sure TX on the receiver is connected to RX on the FC and vise versa. In EdgeTX is the the internal module set to off and the external module on and set to CRSF?
I know in the tw world with there normal 0802 bells theres a large problem with the bells slipping down on crashes. So for the avg consumer the unibells are better. During IGOW i had my share of bell slips till i switched to unibells or the newbeedrone plaids.
JB this is important - the Mobula 6 you compared is the old version, the new version comes with ELRS and the same smaller size 0702 motors as the Mobeetle but 26000KV which is too high. The new Mobula 6 (green frame) is totally not comparable to the Mobeetle, it's much less powerful because the Mobula is a lot heavier, so I think it's important that people know that the Mobula you say is more powerful than the Mobeetle is actually not available anymore! **EDIT The older Mobula IS available from some retailers like RDQ, but not with ELRS, it comes in the clear frame with only the outdated Frsky, flysky, and dsmx protocols.** In addition I'll add my experience regarding the Mobeetle which slightly contradicts yours, maybe because I was flying the much slower mobula 6 elrs I found myself really really happy with the power from the mobeetle on 300mah HM batteries even though they're overweight, my smaller batteries couldn't fit because the pigtail is too short, shorter than JBs making it completely impossible to plug it in. The quad felt fast and nimble, I was very happy with it. Video is not as good as the mobula of course but this is acceptable for less weight. I recommend the Mobeetle for sure. I flashed mine with bluejay but some prefer not to, if you do it's best to have an 120hz overclock.
Problem with the 400 mW VTX is when you're racing you have to use 25 mW and I don't know about you, but I get pretty good range at home. It's at races where there's 4 other quads in the air that video is terrible. AKA. I'd rather have a 25 mW VTX with a good antenna on it than a 400 mW VTX with a piece of wire for an antenna.
@@DonJohnsonFPV I don't get what smart audio has to do with this. 1) Races are limited to 25 mW. 2) Races have more interference from more VTXs being on. Thus a better antenna is worth more than higher output power.
I wish someone compares performance of a ufl connected monopole antenna with just a piece of wire. I wouldn't be surprised if the difference was marginal when the wire was bent away from the pcb.
First
Eyyyyyyyy
Stuuuuuu!! G'day you absolute LEGEND!!
Stuuuu good day brother.
Just got flashbacks to watching your stuff that got me into the hobby 2 years ago, lol. Hope you're doing well mate
Stuuuu G'day... got me into FPV with that 99$ 5inch quad video like 5 years ago. Great times..
thanks, very well done as always! but PLEASE review the new Mobula 7 1S ELRS next. I think it's even better, even if it's less "tiny"
I agree, the 70ish mm whoops fly sooo good
I have the Mobula 7 1s Elrs it’s fun definitely a quad you can have some fun with and impress yourself with how it develops your skills!
Agreed. The Mobeetle seems like a must-by whoop until you realise the much better Mobula 7 1S ELRS exists.
I also agree. I have the 7 and it's a blast to fly. I also upgraded to the more durable frame (2s) without noticing any real difference in the flight, and it actually flies better IMHO. Thumbs up on your comment.
@@nq0amark138 which “more durable frames” do you mean? the mobula 7 V3?
I've had the Cylinder of those motors (Mobula6) seperate from the top very frequently. Had to squeeze them back together and use tiny amount of superglue to secure them.
You rather use loctite 638 than superglue for that.
Superglue don't like vibs or heat.
@@DonJohnsonFPV that is a very good idea. Thank you :)
Bro, just got the betafpv cetus bundle, within an hr, landed in my kids pool, got it out, unplugged and with the luck of the gods and a hair dryer, it still works lol, 7 drones later lol 😆
It's a bit scared but she still flies lol
bi blade props allow the motors to spin faster at a lower relative current draw. i wish back yarders would respect that this is engineering and the designers wouldve done the calcs and worked out the best performance for this setup is through using the config that it comes with.
Has anyone compared this whoop to the BetaFPV Meteor65 Pro? Which is better? The Meteor seems to have larger props and stronger motors, a bit lighter as well if I'm not wrong.
I was wondering if you could put together a video that would describe the 3 components that you would package together, if bought separately, a beginner system, like the little whoop style for 4k FPV. I want to experience FPV flying, but I'm still not sure that prepackaged kits are the answer? I want to fly mostly indoors, but that's not to say that I won't use it outside. I watch tons of your vids so I respect your advice, but I'm still not sure what to get. I'm not afraid to spend a little extra for quality, but it still should be reasonably priced. BTW if you recognize this question, I asked it on another one of your Videos, lol...I'm sometimes a bit impatient. Thank you for all of your content, it is invaluable to newbies like me.
What about betafpv Meteor65 pro? build in ELRS and 350mw vtx.
The optional canopy doesn't hold the FC in horizonally and you will pop out the FC from the side stand offs. A small slice of business card or cereal box cardboard from left to right posts will hold it together really well and stiffen up the frame a bit. Very noticeable difference in smoothness.
Thanks for the detailed review and for reminding about perspective.
I have the Mob 7 ELRS and its great, fast agile and long fly-time on 450 lipo or 660.
I really like my mob 7 elrs 1s - it actually gets better range than my geprc cinelog35 600mw vtx drone that I lost due to bad visuals last week. (I had GPS but it wasn't logging on my controller)
Lucky! I've been waiting on a backorder from GetFTP for over a month now.
@@MaxSMoke777 Banggood and RDQ have them
You haven't seen Mobula6 HDZero?
I always had bell slipping on all my different 0802,0603 and 0703 motors. Unibell are great. It’s not the prop guard that prevent that. I had a frame where the lipo was tuck in so when you land or disarm all for motors hit at the same time the concrete. This impact made the bell slip.
Like I show to joshua I have a full box of dead motor with more sliding magnet issue than slidding bell...
But yes meteor frame with lower motor than battery can act like inertia hammer.
Great video. Again. And you threw out a teaser statement that this is not necessarily good for indoor freestyle which is what I would be interested in. Need a round up on that category. It definitely would be fun. Thanks again for making us learn something today!
Hello JB..the mobula 6 has been upgraded to 0-400 mw openvtx as well.
What
@@Fpvfixit Yes have a look at HM web page... infact most of their tiny whoops even the moblites are upgraded to 0-400 mw
"they have this thing tuned within an inch of its life" had me DYING while i was stoned watching this thinking "man them motors are screaming"
what gauge copper wire should i use to replace the vtx wire on the FC?
Hello Joshua! Your videos are just great! Thanks for producing such good content. I want to tell you that the Meteor65 2022 edition has been recently released. Would be great to watch your review! Greetings from Argentina!
The motors on my Mobula6 ALWAYS seperate. i have to put them back together at least twice a sesh. How could the two part motors possibly be better for cooling? Unibell has bigger holes and the solid mass allows the heat to transfer easier. Am I missing something?
Right, I wanted a little cutie bubito ever since I saw it unfortunately I'm too much of a nube for 1 yet.
how does this FC compare to the HappyModel X12 board?
The X12 has a ceramic ELRS antenna, and UFL connector. 1-2s, 400mw
apparently does 12a continuous
Also worth noting:
The provided new 'old style' canopy does NOT include the sling to hold the camera within it.
And the new 3D printed canopy does NOT fit on the meteor 65 frames. You will have to use the old style canopy or mod the frame somehow to use the together.
super worth noting, i tried swapping the canopies just now and just to my luck, there's no mount for the canopy LOL
If I were to get lower kv motors soldered up , what else would I have to change on the fc to make it fly normal.
give us mobeetle 7. diamond vtx with 0802s.
Thanks for another informal video!
I wish these was available to get in Norway.
You cant get whoops there??
@@johnwalter6410 They are now :) Norway is just a bit slow to keep up with the fun stuff.
5:36 min - Nick Burns said 12,9 mm for 5.8 Ghz some time ago.. 😅
Hello Joshua I recently bought the mobeetle6 watching your video I found it very interesting but I have a problem with the video that I see in black and white with my glasses, it only happens to me with the mobeetle6 with the other drones I can see fine but the videos are recorded in color ...it's crazy. Any suggestions....
I got that drone. should I turn on the Air Mode?
quick note: the canopy provided is NOT the standard Mobula 6 canopy, it's the new type, also available on the Mobula 7 1S, which has FOUR mounting points instead of just THREE as on the Mobula 6
Yes ... but I think you are a bit confused.
Currently there are MoBEETLE, MobLITE and MobuLA.
What Josh review here is MoBEETLE6 with different 3d print canopy, 0702 motors and DIAMOND FC F4 aio.
Back in the day where the 1st mobula released it only 75mm and the canopy actualy represent of Mobula fish.
@@gonebdg I think he's correct, not confused.
@@gonebdg the mobeetle comes with both the 3d print canopy and the new 4 point mobula style canopy
@@eedok hmm ... what I know from official release HM site the 4 point plastic canopy is for mobula7 while the 3 point plastic canopy is for mobula6 however both are interchangeable. The 3D print canopy low profile style is for moblite6/7 and the 3D print "beetles" style is for mobeetle6 and no official mobeetle7 yet at the moment. All of those canopies surely interchangable for standard whoop.
@@gonebdg I’m referring to the hard plastic canopy provided as optional with the mobeetle, which JB said it’s the “standard Mobula 6”. it’s not, as per my original comment. I’m not confused nor confusing. you are 😂
What batteries did you use for the mobula?!?!?!?
I love this thing, got it as my first whoop. Throttle center at 60 percent and some expo made it way easier to fly, I also put the rates on 550 deg/s! Simulators are so handy to find out great settings.
Just my 2 cents but the more expo you use the more unpredictable it get... EXPO is bad guys !!!
@@DonJohnsonFPV have you made any videos on this? I would love to learn more. I have been using expo it gave me more mid stick control, but I could also lower my rates…
@@DonJohnsonFPV Kinda makes sense, I don't want any mouse acceleration enabled when I play a shooting game as well. I can notice it instantly. Ideal would be full linear with that thought process. I'll be experimenting.
@@fpvcruzer I totaly disagree, expo make your mid stick absolutely unptedictable.
no video needed, just use the less possible expo with the slowest rate possible.
And once used to these setting remove even more expo...
@@DonJohnsonFPV thanks for the reply. I meant lowering my rates instead of expo :) and I am going to follow your suggestion in order to see if I like that better. Always more to learn.
My mobula 6 motors the black side keeps falling down to prevent me from flying
just curious. Why can't you use regular wire for the wire antenna as opposed to standard bus wire? What does the coating do for the signal in laymen terms?
It does nothing for the signal. But having a conductive wire flapping around will eventually short something.
@@JoshuaBardwell Ah. Gotcha thanks!
Hi. Could you help me please. On my Meteor65 and other tiny drone one of the motors when i do Arm is starting a bit latter than others and disbalance the drone. When it flies you don't feel it but i would like to fix it if possible. Any idea what might cause this and how to fix?
Thanks!
Angry Don is angry? You don't say...
which would you recommend the mobula6 1s elrs or mobeetle6 1s elrs ?
Thanks Josh
Love u bro, your videos have always helped me❤
Is ther any better dvr in 2023 analogue ????
Ok, i didn't fly quads for like a year, all i know that happened was digital fatshark, what did i miss. I mean mobula 6, ye i have one of those, what is a diamond f6?
This is great
Have you tried the Mobula6 ELRS version? It comes with ELRS (ceramic antenna) and 400mw OpenVTX. It's a solid, reliable FC. The only criticism is that they paired a heavier build with the 0702 motors, which were designed for a lighter build like the Mobeetle.
ah somebody had a similar idea as I just had ... grin ...
take best of both ... bigger motor, bigger vtx and the elrs ... (and the "over" power maybe could lift a bigger battery to have longer fun?!?)
I prefer that FC to the diamond one, since I don't like the copper wire antennas (I've had them break on me).
Yeah the mobula 6 elrs is a problem honestly, WAY WAY WAY TOO SLOW. I made another comment bringing JBs attention to the fact that the mobula he showed is no longer for sale.
@@avgvstvs96 Well, the Mobula6 is still available, but it is the V2. It is the same as the original except the new gyro and they switched the VTX to OpenVTX. The Mob6 ELRS isn't slow per se, but the 702 motors don't do as well with the extra weight of the heavier FC and canopy. If you switch those out to 802 or 603 motors, it rips. For now, it is my preferred FC.
@@dubzsquaredfpv7171 you say its the same as the original, its not. Smaller motors. Much slower. Bad buy compared to the old one
Hi dude! Is express lrs the way?
yez
How far do people really take a whoop though I mean honestly most of the time you need that wattage in the VTX for penetration not really range so much at least from what I've seen and my experience and my usage experience
Range and penetration are the same thing. Range is just easier to test.
@@JoshuaBardwell range is just penetration through air
What are the differences with a moblite 6?
1:55 - Mobilite6 has only 200mw VTX and not 400mw.
I can't seem to find the link to your Betaflight/ EMuflight comparison video int he description...
th-cam.com/video/ACTQryEWxUI/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=JoshuaBardwell
I have 6 wats max brushless size I can install also what’s max mah I can fly with
Lovely video, i can tell you put a load of time and effort into this so well done 👊👌 i like how you actually raced it aswell, a lot of product reviews for 65mm's are just flying around the house and that's not all that helpfull if you need to figure out sag etc :) thankyou jb 👍
hello i want to buy this device can i connect tbs nano rx se receiver.
I need your valuable information
I've broken elrs ceramic antennas off 2 whoops. Do you think I could solder a ceramic wire antenna on them?
Yep absolutely.
Thank you
It looks shinny, is it conformal coated?🙌🏻sick video still🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
can I link this to my dji v2 with a analog receiver? I want to buy some of these so my son can learn to fly were both new to fpv thanks.
Yes, the video signal sent by the quad can be picked up by an analog receiver hooked into the AV input on the V2 goggles.
@@JoshuaBardwell Awsome thank you for responding! You have been my go-to in this hobby and I can't thank you enough.
this seems very similar to the flywoo 1s baby nano, can you compare against this one? One of my complains on this flywoo is that it doesn't have prop guards and I've broke a lot of motor shafts... I have to see if its possible to fix them, I didn't want to buy more motors for it for now. I'm now using the last 4 motors I have and I just don't use turtle mode to make them last longer lool
Awesome vid!!!!!! Thx for instruction and excellent reviews
can I buy mobula 6 with futaba reddy?
Can I connect Crossfire nano rx ???
Couldn't you just put the Diamond FC into the Mobula 6?
Open vtx has issues where is will change to 0mW in the middle of a flight. You can work around this by removing the 0W in the vtx power.
Had no idea about this problem. Thanks for the heads up. Does it switch and stay on 0mw, or does it do that intermittently?
@@JohnCuppi it stays on 0mW until you change it to a different power and reboot. I removed the 0mW and it seamed to stop.
@@cohibamatt8117 i didnt notice this on either of my open vtx whoops
@@avgvstvs96 this happens on both my open vtx boards, Happy Model and Flywoo , and my Happy Model AIO x12. It isn’t a deal breaker for me because I do not race, and I continue to purchase open vtx to help support the project. Interesting that it doesn’t happen to you though and I am curious what the difference may be, may be something in the settings?
Another great video Josh! I love tiny whoops. They are so nuch fun and inexpensive to run. What tiny whoop is your go to so far? Do you like the nitro necktor better then the 450mAh ones with the bt2.0 conectors from betafpv?
Bought this because the mobula 6 elrs is so hard to get in oz rn
Why is is a bad whoop for inside. Sorry I must have missed that part
Hello you are one of the best if not the best fpv TH-camr I’ve seen you have gotten so good over these years keep it up
Great video Jb
Great video, as always.
I strongly disagree on the statement that the split bell motors are better than unibell. If you swap to the Meteor65 frame, as many of us do, you’re landing on the motor screws instead of landing on the battery - this causes more downward force on the motors and increases the tendency to slip the bell. I personally avoid split bell motors at all cost.
For anyone looking at emuflight, I strongly recommend looking into Quicksilver. While it may not have all the features, it is has significantly improved flight performance, especially with whoops, when compared to Betaflight.
Quicksilver is great, but aren't there limited choice of FC to run it? And no ELRS support.
@@JoshuaBardwell Flight controllers are limited, yes, but pretty much every whoop FC is supported, with more being added all the time (I just flashed an old omnibus F4 to run it on 5” as well). As for ELRS, they’ve had it working since late 1.x. All my race whoops are running QS + ELRS, some SPI and some serial RX. I highly recommend revisiting it!
Love your videos JB. I think people are missing a trick with the carbon frame. Lots of people in the world live in urban environments or other compact living scenarios. A 65-80mm carbon frame allows you to rip balls outside with a lot of the freestyle characteristics of much larger quads. They’re so much fun and flyable. And the crucial thing is they’re so quiet it’s much harder to disturb others or draw attention. Yes a toothpick style 2s etc will fly a little better but everything bigger is louder. Flying “under the radar” is really useful nowadays.
Agree, I have the flywoo firefly and they are incredible silent with 16500kv and biblades.
nice flying
Sweet. I've been flying these for a few weeks now.. they're great.
Dump the canopy - it lets the camera wobble, and doesn't protect the copper aerials... the included old style canopy has four points.. no jello, and shrouds those aerials.
Put it in a meteor frame. It'll be indestructible.
Stick a bt2.0 connector on and use some betaflight batteries.
I suspect Angry Don is just a little bitter because he didn't expect such a commercial trade off. That's fair. I can understand that.
But I can also see why HM wanted to offer something a little more than another, lighter whoop. They already had a superlight ELRS 65 whoop.. so they needed to spend money on a gimmick to differentiate this, and I guess that was the carbon frame..
I'm bitter cause it can have been sub 16g, but it's 17.5g, it can have better cam but no it's worst than what we have 2 years ago, it can have molded canopy but no they prefer to use my worst design...
the included other canopy didn't come with cam holder...
Meteor frame is durable but is a notorious motor killer cause lower motor than battery and duct lack of rigidity...
And please no BT2.0 on such a efficient quad !!!
@@DonJohnsonFPV great response! Appreciated!
I mentioned the cam sling in another comment. That was a bummer, and a total oversight in my opinion as it makes the canopy useless to many.
I need the bt2.0 because I thrash the shit out of my quads :/. The included connector always goes to shit for me with loose connection. Same reason why I feel OK to weigh mine down with the canopy and meteor frame - I need durability over slight performance.
Haven't burned a motor yet on 4 drones though. Maybe I'm lucky. But I have several completely shredded mobula frames so maybe I'm unlucky instead! Usually they break at the tray and at the duct standoffs :s
What cam would you have recommended? I thought this cam was pretty well liked?
@@big-smoke-rc better FPV Cam would be "Caddx Ant Lite" or "Foxeer Pico Razer" (haven't tested the Foxeer one, but the Ant & Ant Lite are much much better than the RunCam Nano3.
and it's also quite good in low light (normal Ant is little bit better, in low light)
Indestructible. Just wait for the next AIO esc to blow. I love micros, but I can't even count how many little dead boards I've already accumulated. It was too expensive. Nowadays I only fly toothpicks because 12A esc's are reliable.
BTW foxeer pico razer is the best whoop cam I'v found (I dont like runcam nano or caddx ant). Then comes ratel nano 2 for the toothpicks, and finally runcam phoenix nano 2 for the bigger ones. Also I would advice to use PAL, as the extra NTSC refreshrate doesn't show up in the googles thanks to the mild ghosting effect of the LCD's.... on the computer screen it's another story as PAL uses to playback poorly when converted to digital.
@@DonJohnsonFPV I like Pico razer camera. Wich canopy would you recommend for such a micro? Also, do you have any advice to stop burning more aio boards? Merci
Very balanced reviewing! Great job Josh!
The newer diamond f4 boards have built in programmable LEDs as well. Out of all the reviews on this quad, nobody has mentioned this.
Mine have the LED's on the front, but I have no idea how to set them up..
They removed the LEDs on this revision
Hi Joshua have you looked at the Mobula 7 1s?
Where are the battery links?
Sorry about that. www.fpvknowitall.com/fpv-shopping-list-tiny-whoop/#whoop-battery-chargers
Hi Josh Great video and review of the Mobeetle 6is is great. And yes this is the beast F.C for your micro's right now. And is the reason why I have been thinking about switching a Crossfire transmitter for a ELRS transmitter. I hade a set of Mobilly gates that I have been practicing with my mobula 6. I like your track and yes nitronector is the best batteries. I can't wait to see you have Blunty over for a race. I need to build a new mobula 6, using the new F.C and the Caddx ant. I think I would stay with the 25,000kv and turn it down in Betaflight this way if I ever get good enough to fly without hitting something LOL Thanks again for the video and information.
Do it!🤘 ELRS whoop boards are definitely not going away.
SPI ELRS will be gone eventually, but it’ll be integrated as a uart.
The Caddax ant is the best whoop camera. Light and good picture quality.
Just got the mobula7 the esc no.1 firmware says yyyyyyyyy-yyyyyyyy the others are correct firmware drone flips on take off motor one starts and stops , you cannot flash esc on Blheli the flash button is whited out anyway to fix the esc or flash esc another way
The ceramic antennas would regularly break off.
@@661FPV I've lost 3 ceramic antennas in past 5 months. Replaced with a piece of wire. I've not lost any of these or the ones on the diamond ELRS boards yet.
I need to get on the happy model hype train
Seen a few other decent mobeetle 6 reviews. Love this one. Loved the benchmarking with the mobula6.
I disagree wholeheartedly with Don's point about the unibells not mattering. Every set of Happmodel 0802 motors I've ever gotten on a Mobula6 have split, usually within the first few packs. That probably has more to do with HM's manufacturing though as I've not had those problems with BetaFpv or Newbeedrone motors.
I never had luck with betafpv 0802. I have to buy 2 sets to get 4 working motors. They work better on the carbon frames like the mosquito.
@@cohibamatt8117 This hobby is crazy. For every story about a great experience with a product, you can find a bad story with the exact same product.
@@dubzsquaredfpv7171 this is very true. I removed my betafpv motors from my mobula frame and I put them on a mosquito frame to give them a fare chance. I believe the problem is coming from the frame of the mobula. I need to slightly bend the wire connections to the motor housing and this may cause the problem.
geprc smart16 is basically a tiny whoop without guards and a carbon frame. I fly it outside. two-piece bell even.
Mob7 hdzero! Elrs!
#NewBeeDrone is the truth! I love that place they help you out in the best ways possible. Good stuff!
How do you think this compares against the new newbie drone v2 board and whoop? Great channel and info bro.
Happy Model is killing it in the whoop game.
I wonder if it would be better with a different battery connector. I've been running the bt2.0 on a very similar build and it seems to perform a lot better
the ph2.0 is all thats necessary on a whoop as long as it's solid pin. the crimped pin ones are definitely not good enough, but the sold pins are all you need with no extra weight. bt2.0 and gnb27 add too much extra weight and the connectors are SO expensive that I feel like it's so important that we generally boycott buying them until they start selling 100 packs for $20 not 5 connectors for $10 like the bt2 and gnb27 jokes, imagine having to spend $40 to convert all your batteries? anything that really needs more than a ph2.o should go straight to xt30s
I updated my mobula 6 to 4.3 with the factory software and it’s stuck on pit mode
Try removing the 0mW and 25mW power in your vtx and see if it comes back.
@@cohibamatt8117 ok will try
try going through the on screen display to turn it off sometimes they get locked in via the firmware
Pointless upgrading a whoop to bf4.3. Revert it back to factory.
@@JC-qy6cx has a problem from factory vtx acting weird I would have to switch power to get decent range every time I swap battery
Pretty fantastic flying and review, Joshua! 😃
Maybe I repeat it too much... But I definitely mean it! This little quad is sweet!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Greetings sir I must commend you an the quality work that you have been doing... I have a problem that I think only you can help me solve . I just purchase a mamba mk4 h743 FC for a 7 inch build but it's just not arming in beta flight, the error is rxloss and I have change the receiver not once but twice from working quads so I know it's not the receiver l also updated the firmware and it's the same thing.. the radio is running edgetx and the receiver is elrs... I really don't know what's really happening... so any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Some things to check. In the ports tab in Betaflight is serial rx checked on the correct number uart? Also in BF, is the receiver type set to serial and the protocol se to CRSF. Make sure TX on the receiver is connected to RX on the FC and vise versa. In EdgeTX is the the internal module set to off and the external module on and set to CRSF?
@@skree_fpv436 thanks for responding yes all those things are already been cheched
@@nich532 Have you tried connecting it to a different uart?
@@skree_fpv436 no I did not try a different one apart from the default which is quart 1
@@nich532 Okay. Definitely try another uart. Some flight controllers have issues with elrs on uart 1.
Would you recommend this drone as the first indoors drone instead of Meteor65 pro? It's really hard to pick one, seems like they are pretty similar.
Hi, will a racedayquads 450 1 cell battery fit this quad?
No it's too wide to fit in the slot on the frame.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you for your help.
Newbie here. Is there a digital version of this? Or something similar to this
I know in the tw world with there normal 0802 bells theres a large problem with the bells slipping down on crashes. So for the avg consumer the unibells are better. During IGOW i had my share of bell slips till i switched to unibells or the newbeedrone plaids.
I'm looking forward to trying one of these out. I have a M6 as well as a Mobulite 7.
Is it a concern that there's so much of the circuit board left exposed like that instead of protected by plastic?
no lol it's a whoop
@@fitchyyboi Are you saying that at the speeds it goes, hitting some hard pointy surface is not gonna crack any vias or dislodge any components?
@@tiagotiagot Still better than moblite 7 with totatly unprotected FC siting 2mm higher than everything else...
JB this is important - the Mobula 6 you compared is the old version, the new version comes with ELRS and the same smaller size 0702 motors as the Mobeetle but 26000KV which is too high. The new Mobula 6 (green frame) is totally not comparable to the Mobeetle, it's much less powerful because the Mobula is a lot heavier, so I think it's important that people know that the Mobula you say is more powerful than the Mobeetle is actually not available anymore! **EDIT The older Mobula IS available from some retailers like RDQ, but not with ELRS, it comes in the clear frame with only the outdated Frsky, flysky, and dsmx protocols.**
In addition I'll add my experience regarding the Mobeetle which slightly contradicts yours, maybe because I was flying the much slower mobula 6 elrs I found myself really really happy with the power from the mobeetle on 300mah HM batteries even though they're overweight, my smaller batteries couldn't fit because the pigtail is too short, shorter than JBs making it completely impossible to plug it in. The quad felt fast and nimble, I was very happy with it. Video is not as good as the mobula of course but this is acceptable for less weight. I recommend the Mobeetle for sure. I flashed mine with bluejay but some prefer not to, if you do it's best to have an 120hz overclock.
Anyone got any pid tunes to share for this?
It basically comes with Angry Don's tune, but he has a suggested tune on his channel, as well as other updates he suggests.
@@JoshuaBardwell I just checked it out. Sick vid. 🙏🏻
my guy put gates on the tree... yeah man.
Does the board have 2 extra uarts for a tbs 500mw nano vtx, and a crossfire nano?
Why someone would want to put such dated and heavy components on such a great FC ???
I love tooth pick style drones,it’s all I fly. Love when you review them.
You see the issue with my original meteor 65 is that it only gets 2mins and 10sec of flightime, 4mins on a tiny whoop is something I'm looking for.
its the weight. make it weigh 17g dry and youll get 4 minutes
@@avgvstvs96 No it's the motor, Betafpv 22000kv (especially the old one with bearing) are less efficient than any 25000kv available
Problem with the 400 mW VTX is when you're racing you have to use 25 mW and I don't know about you, but I get pretty good range at home. It's at races where there's 4 other quads in the air that video is terrible. AKA. I'd rather have a 25 mW VTX with a good antenna on it than a 400 mW VTX with a piece of wire for an antenna.
That's cause smart audio is wrongly setup, 25mw is way lower than that from what Phobos told me.
@@DonJohnsonFPV I don't get what smart audio has to do with this.
1) Races are limited to 25 mW.
2) Races have more interference from more VTXs being on.
Thus a better antenna is worth more than higher output power.
@@Vousie you missed the point, on 25mw setting this VTX is a lot lower than 25mw that's why others blasting you will flying together.
@@DonJohnsonFPV It's not any lower. The guys at the races have an rf meter to check that everyone's at about the same output power.
I wish someone compares performance of a ufl connected monopole antenna with just a piece of wire. I wouldn't be surprised if the difference was marginal when the wire was bent away from the pcb.