The old motor can only be used for focus. Making your new motor an iris or zoom. It works fine, to activate it just set channels to manual and select the channel listed on your old motor, then scan for your new motor (after double clicking the motor button), then set your new motor to blue (zoom) or iris and you're done.
One big note that I've found with the nano II motor power will vary a lot based on your power source. I first tried USB C to USB C through multiple power sources, but it wasn't strong enough to work on several lenses I tried. Once I plugged it in to 14.8v D-tap, it has no problems.
I wonder how many ppl thought this would run off usb-c? I certainly did, until the pink flashing light made me realise that they are talking about usb-c PD, a variant that carries up 20V, and while the II will work on 5V, that is really about a third of the power it needs to deliver full torque. So much for all the reviews I watched beforehand! BTW the manual mentions that it needs 18V so you're still underpowered.
@TheAwesomeGamer21 It works without one at the right voltage and current. But I work from batteries, which I assume do not surge (might be wrong). Don't get dtap specifically for this, it's overpriced and limited.
Word of note regarding the Nano original (and this comes from Tilta directly), they do NOT recommend powering the hand unit via USB, as that port was meant for firmware. Sadly, the display on the older units tends to crap out and was pretty unreadable to begin with. I wonder if the designer of the original ever used a follow-focus before letting that unit go to market.
Quick question: When I piggy backed the USB connections through the motor and to my FX3 (as you did), I did get control of the camera functions, but I lost PD power from the brick battery. Even though my camera had the little plug icon next to the battery indicator, it was running off the internal battery. So can it power the camera remotely from the brick and also control camera functions? I had the right ports connected just as you did it. Also, can the lock lever be adjusted? It sticks out 90 degrees when secured on my nato rail and often gets in the way. And finally, how would you connect it to the Sony FX3 via wifi if you needed to control it that way because of the power issue mentioned above?
I had version 1 until this weekend.. the wheel slipped off from my ronin s when I set it down in a bush up at the boundary waters, didn't realize it until I got all the way home. So will the nano 2 wheel work with nano 1 motor as long as your on same channel? I'm sorry, i don't know if you mention this as I'm not able to listen with audio right now.
dang that sucks that your nano 1 wheel just dropped into the water! Yes, the Nano 2 wheel does work with the Nano 1 motor. But honestly, it's easier to setup and use with the nano 2 motors, so I'd recommend getting the kit anyway.
Bit late to the party, but I see you were running your Nano 1 motor off of 16.8 volts while USB-C will give you less than that. Have you tried running the Nano 2 motor from DTap with a DTap to USB-C? And if so, how do you establish a cable connection between the motor and the camera even though the voltage is higher than what the camera is rated for? It feels like you could fry the camera this way if the motor and camera do not have any voltage step down / PD communication to operate properly. No info from Tilta (besides not plugging in the DTap USB directly into other devices but the motor). Realistically, I feel like many people would plug in the DTap to USBC into the Nano 2 and not think about the cable connection from Nano 2 to the camera that might not work properly. Have not tried yet myself since I'm waiting for the cables.
Hello Chadwin Smith, like you, I have a Sony a7sIII and Nano II with the handheld. Since my upgrade to 3.01, I can no longer switch the camera to record mode with the handheld. This was before not a problem. All other functions of the handheld are active and are taken over by the camera without to switch in recorde mode. The menu item PC remote is no longer available and I cannot find a setting that would allow me to switch the camera to record mode with the handheld. Do you perhaps have a solution? Many thanks for your video on the nano II and also many thanks for an answer. Best regards Peter
Hey! I don't know that I've ran accross this exact issue yet. Reach out to Tilta directly for support though, they're usually pretty good about it! If i find a solution i'll comment again.
Hi, Thanks for the great review. I am looking for a motor for a little unusual setup - dji ronin 4d with sirui saturn lenses. And I want to use the motor for iris while the native motor pulls the Focus wheel. Could you be so kind and tell me, please: 1. how good is the sensitivity of the nano compared to nano II? And 2. Which of the two consumes more battery? Thanks in advance.
hey! you can definitely use the Nano ii for multiple motors like this to control Iris and Focus. you can adjust the sensitivity and torque with the Focus Wheel settings, so yes you can totally dial it in to where you need. As far as battery consumption i'm not totally sure the difference. I plug them both into a large v-mount battery, so power is never an issue.
Yeah, I still need to place a pre-order for it--but, I'd really like to test out the new grip! I played with it a little bit at NAB, but not enough to draw conclusions.
@@chadwin yea same here only concern is doesn’t look like they thought about the mounting options for a rotatable rosette but hopefully some adapter can fix that
Thanks for the review, pretty cool. Quick question, you said the nano 2 wont work with the old focus side handle, do you know if it would work with the Advanced Focus Handle . I also love to use the handle and be able to focus at the same time.
I noticed this oil in my case... I couldn't figure out where tf this was coming from, granted, i had it stored for a while, but I here I thought it was something else.. crazy. I actually lost it on my last shoot over the weekend. Do you know if this new wheel works with old motor?
Hi Chadwin Smith, thank you for the informative video about the Nucleus Nano 2 from Tilta. With this system I control 2 motors, one for the focus and one for the aperture. I work with Sony A7S III. If I set a hard stop, I succeed immediately in the first position. But with the second position I have to hold down with my finger on AB several times until it sets the second stop. That's annoying because it takes time and I often don't have it. Do you know this problem and if so, how can it be solved? Thank you very much for your effort. Best for you, Peter
I don't know the exact torque numbers and it doesn't say on their website. What I can say is, it's very powerful and I can't imagine any lens focus barrel that it couldn't handle. Here's all the Tilta site says "Equipped with a high-performance motor, the Nano II delivers five times the torque of its predecessor"
This looks so much cooler than my SmallRig MagicFIZ. I have it paired with my Sony A7IV and a 24-70mm G Master Lens, i was disappointed with the motors as they seem very strong but couldn't properly control the zoom from the lens it was skipping the little teeth marks here and there. But for the focus it did great. I still have it but returned the second motor after smallrig confirmed that they're magicfiz cant control the Zoom function on lenses. I wonder if this can do it. I wanted something that can control both the zoom and focus. 😅 maybe im asking for too much?
It can do both. You can link it to 4 individual motors for focus, zoom, iris, VND, etc. The handle itself can control two as it has the side lever/wheel thing as opposed to the main wheel itself. But you can switch between motors or functions just by tapping the option on screen. You can also pair it to a focus grip, though I'm not sure if it can be synced to ANY grip or just Titla grips. I'd assume the latter, but never the less, it'll do what you want provided you have two motors. The torque is also VERY good, so much so I actually worry about the lens sometimes haha. Jokes aside, you can adjust sentitivity. I haven't had any issues with skipping teeth.
Yes exactly. You can program the zoom rocker to another motor for a zoom ring. I just couldn’t get it working perfectly with my old nucleus nano motor to show it, but it does work with the zoom rocker and the nano ii motor just fine
Have you used the Nucleus-M? I am wondering how the Nano-II compares in torque. I do wish there was a hard stop mode override - for instance holding down a button allowed to to pull past the stop - I understand the soft stop mode can do this, but I think a firm stop could work better then ability for micro adjustment - but I say that not having tried it yet. Thanks for sharing your experience with it. I ordered one during Black Friday sales and I should have it in hand soon.
I have used the Nucleus-M before yes, and I'd say the motors are just as powerful. You can either set a soft A/B stop, that you feel the haptic feedback but can still pull past. or you can set hard A/B stops and it will stop at the A/B stops you set. Hopefully you like it once you receive your order!!
I’ve used both extensively. The new nucleus nano ii is powerful enough to turn large cinema lenses. Nucleus M is only slightly more powerful than the nano ii. The Nano ii IMO is not ready for production, it’s not compatible with most of the previous tilta handles despite tilta stating it would. Connectivity is also a joke, it is not consistent and constantly loses connection when turning the unit off and on. Ik switching back to the Ronin-M for pro video work.
I have follow focus nucleus-n 1, it turns out that there was a curious person who put 14v into my nucleus, and it burned! :C long story! Now I only have the engine left, can I just buy a nucleus two? the new one that came out and use it with the engine?
At a guess, the PDMovie probably had all its functionality at time of release but the Nano looks like it was released 6 months too early and virtually every part of it is in beta! 😂 😢
Honestly, my biggest worry is that the new nucleus with its internal tech and rubber hand wheel is more fragile and won't last as long as the more sturdy build and wooden handle of the original, thoughts?
@@chadwin I do have a curious question though. As somebody who does have the old one, and was thinking of buying the new one. Can I use the old one, in parallel with the new one? I would use the old controller and everything. Just would like to know, say for example, use the old one for zooming purposes, on a makeshift rig with a zoom lens... While the new one will be used for the actual focus. I'm just wondering if the frequencies get tangled up or not. And for reference, I was thinking of a permanent rig for streaming purposes, so that whomever used it, does not have to physically touch the rig in question.
IDK man, it feels gimmicky? The granular control its nice, but its not like you have this 10 sets of lenses that you need to jump confings on the fly from and to in a shoot. Mabie that could be an app for customize it. the one function I would expect from a device with this granular control and menus is set A-B focus points. As a solo shooter for a moderate complex shot on a gimbal, or pairing it with a slider for a perfect match cut or whatever, that could be really a game changer.
I get what you’re saying. I will say though it’s very nice to be able to configure the device without an iPhone and app, cause we all know that can be a real headache sometimes. It does allow you to easily set A/B focus points and you can use them with haptic feedback or hard stops. You can actually set multiple focus points if you have more than 2.
@@SebasSant87 hahaha! I do the same thing all the time. life of an editor and creator--we're always multi-tasking. But then I just have to end up rewinding and watching parts again that I zoned out on.
The micro USB input into the Nano v1 isn't for power, just firmware updates - unless there's a "v1 mark II" - which is a major drawback compared to the new version.
Yeah. I’m pretty sure you’re right! For some reason in my mind I thought I remember powering it via USB micro also, but maybe it was only for updates ever 😅
@ I belatedly discovered that mine can in fact be powered via USB without issue. Bit of a weird one, I'm not sure if the documentation changed or what.
The old motor can only be used for focus. Making your new motor an iris or zoom. It works fine, to activate it just set channels to manual and select the channel listed on your old motor, then scan for your new motor (after double clicking the motor button), then set your new motor to blue (zoom) or iris and you're done.
Ahh, I see. That could work! I'll have to give it a try. It'd be nice to be able to use both motors together easily.
thanks work
One big note that I've found with the nano II motor power will vary a lot based on your power source. I first tried USB C to USB C through multiple power sources, but it wasn't strong enough to work on several lenses I tried. Once I plugged it in to 14.8v D-tap, it has no problems.
I wonder how many ppl thought this would run off usb-c? I certainly did, until the pink flashing light made me realise that they are talking about usb-c PD, a variant that carries up 20V, and while the II will work on 5V, that is really about a third of the power it needs to deliver full torque. So much for all the reviews I watched beforehand! BTW the manual mentions that it needs 18V so you're still underpowered.
@@MekchanoidDo you know if you need a Dtap to usb-c cable with a surge protector brick (like small rigs) or can it just be one without it?
@TheAwesomeGamer21 It works without one at the right voltage and current. But I work from batteries, which I assume do not surge (might be wrong). Don't get dtap specifically for this, it's overpriced and limited.
Word of note regarding the Nano original (and this comes from Tilta directly), they do NOT recommend powering the hand unit via USB, as that port was meant for firmware. Sadly, the display on the older units tends to crap out and was pretty unreadable to begin with. I wonder if the designer of the original ever used a follow-focus before letting that unit go to market.
Extraordinarily clear, as though I had the unit with me. Convincing towards purchase. Big thanks. And no talking head.
Thanks!! Hope it was helpful in your decision
Quick question: When I piggy backed the USB connections through the motor and to my FX3 (as you did), I did get control of the camera functions, but I lost PD power from the brick battery. Even though my camera had the little plug icon next to the battery indicator, it was running off the internal battery. So can it power the camera remotely from the brick and also control camera functions? I had the right ports connected just as you did it. Also, can the lock lever be adjusted? It sticks out 90 degrees when secured on my nato rail and often gets in the way. And finally, how would you connect it to the Sony FX3 via wifi if you needed to control it that way because of the power issue mentioned above?
I had version 1 until this weekend.. the wheel slipped off from my ronin s when I set it down in a bush up at the boundary waters, didn't realize it until I got all the way home. So will the nano 2 wheel work with nano 1 motor as long as your on same channel? I'm sorry, i don't know if you mention this as I'm not able to listen with audio right now.
dang that sucks that your nano 1 wheel just dropped into the water!
Yes, the Nano 2 wheel does work with the Nano 1 motor. But honestly, it's easier to setup and use with the nano 2 motors, so I'd recommend getting the kit anyway.
Bit late to the party, but I see you were running your Nano 1 motor off of 16.8 volts while USB-C will give you less than that. Have you tried running the Nano 2 motor from DTap with a DTap to USB-C? And if so, how do you establish a cable connection between the motor and the camera even though the voltage is higher than what the camera is rated for? It feels like you could fry the camera this way if the motor and camera do not have any voltage step down / PD communication to operate properly.
No info from Tilta (besides not plugging in the DTap USB directly into other devices but the motor). Realistically, I feel like many people would plug in the DTap to USBC into the Nano 2 and not think about the cable connection from Nano 2 to the camera that might not work properly. Have not tried yet myself since I'm waiting for the cables.
Hello Chadwin Smith,
like you, I have a Sony a7sIII and Nano II with the handheld. Since my upgrade to 3.01, I can no longer switch the camera to record mode with the handheld. This was before not a problem. All other functions of the handheld are active and are taken over by the camera without to switch in recorde mode.
The menu item PC remote is no longer available and I cannot find a setting that would allow me to switch the camera to record mode with the handheld.
Do you perhaps have a solution?
Many thanks for your video on the nano II and also many thanks for an answer.
Best regards
Peter
Hey! I don't know that I've ran accross this exact issue yet. Reach out to Tilta directly for support though, they're usually pretty good about it! If i find a solution i'll comment again.
Hi, Thanks for the great review. I am looking for a motor for a little unusual setup - dji ronin 4d with sirui saturn lenses. And I want to use the motor for iris while the native motor pulls the Focus wheel. Could you be so kind and tell me, please: 1. how good is the sensitivity of the nano compared to nano II? And 2. Which of the two consumes more battery? Thanks in advance.
hey! you can definitely use the Nano ii for multiple motors like this to control Iris and Focus. you can adjust the sensitivity and torque with the Focus Wheel settings, so yes you can totally dial it in to where you need.
As far as battery consumption i'm not totally sure the difference. I plug them both into a large v-mount battery, so power is never an issue.
Sweet...can you run constant usb c power to the wheel via Vmount set up?
waiting on the handle u gonna do a review on that?
Yeah, I still need to place a pre-order for it--but, I'd really like to test out the new grip! I played with it a little bit at NAB, but not enough to draw conclusions.
@@chadwin yea same here only concern is doesn’t look like they thought about the mounting options for a rotatable rosette but hopefully some adapter can fix that
Thanks for the review, pretty cool. Quick question, you said the nano 2 wont work with the old focus side handle, do you know if it would work with the Advanced Focus Handle . I also love to use the handle and be able to focus at the same time.
Another what? That's right.... ANOTHER BANGER VIDEO. Great job.
I've had two of the original handwheels fail and leak oil.
Oh really? That’s crazy! I’ve had mine for over 4 years with no issues.
There’s oil in the hand wheel??
@@chadwin Yea it's how they create the resistance.
that's interesting! I didn't know that. Hopefully Tilta covered them under warranty. @@darrenorange2982
I noticed this oil in my case... I couldn't figure out where tf this was coming from, granted, i had it stored for a while, but I here I thought it was something else.. crazy. I actually lost it on my last shoot over the weekend. Do you know if this new wheel works with old motor?
Hi Chadwin Smith, thank you for the informative video about the Nucleus Nano 2 from Tilta. With this system I control 2 motors, one for the focus and one for the aperture. I work with Sony A7S III. If I set a hard stop, I succeed immediately in the first position. But with the second position I have to hold down with my finger on AB several times until it sets the second stop. That's annoying because it takes time and I often don't have it. Do you know this problem and if so, how can it be solved? Thank you very much for your effort. Best for you, Peter
What are the torque numbers on both devices please?
I don't know the exact torque numbers and it doesn't say on their website. What I can say is, it's very powerful and I can't imagine any lens focus barrel that it couldn't handle. Here's all the Tilta site says "Equipped with a high-performance motor, the Nano II delivers five times the torque of its predecessor"
This looks so much cooler than my SmallRig MagicFIZ. I have it paired with my Sony A7IV and a 24-70mm G Master Lens, i was disappointed with the motors as they seem very strong but couldn't properly control the zoom from the lens it was skipping the little teeth marks here and there. But for the focus it did great. I still have it but returned the second motor after smallrig confirmed that they're magicfiz cant control the Zoom function on lenses. I wonder if this can do it. I wanted something that can control both the zoom and focus. 😅 maybe im asking for too much?
It can do both. You can link it to 4 individual motors for focus, zoom, iris, VND, etc. The handle itself can control two as it has the side lever/wheel thing as opposed to the main wheel itself. But you can switch between motors or functions just by tapping the option on screen. You can also pair it to a focus grip, though I'm not sure if it can be synced to ANY grip or just Titla grips. I'd assume the latter, but never the less, it'll do what you want provided you have two motors. The torque is also VERY good, so much so I actually worry about the lens sometimes haha. Jokes aside, you can adjust sentitivity. I haven't had any issues with skipping teeth.
Are you sure you're supplying enough power?
Could the rocker be used to control another motor such as a zoom motor..?
Yes exactly. You can program the zoom rocker to another motor for a zoom ring. I just couldn’t get it working perfectly with my old nucleus nano motor to show it, but it does work with the zoom rocker and the nano ii motor just fine
@@chadwin that’s awesome!
Have you used the Nucleus-M? I am wondering how the Nano-II compares in torque. I do wish there was a hard stop mode override - for instance holding down a button allowed to to pull past the stop - I understand the soft stop mode can do this, but I think a firm stop could work better then ability for micro adjustment - but I say that not having tried it yet. Thanks for sharing your experience with it. I ordered one during Black Friday sales and I should have it in hand soon.
I have used the Nucleus-M before yes, and I'd say the motors are just as powerful.
You can either set a soft A/B stop, that you feel the haptic feedback but can still pull past. or you can set hard A/B stops and it will stop at the A/B stops you set.
Hopefully you like it once you receive your order!!
I’ve used both extensively. The new nucleus nano ii is powerful enough to turn large cinema lenses. Nucleus M is only slightly more powerful than the nano ii. The Nano ii IMO is not ready for production, it’s not compatible with most of the previous tilta handles despite tilta stating it would. Connectivity is also a joke, it is not consistent and constantly loses connection when turning the unit off and on. Ik switching back to the Ronin-M for pro video work.
How to connect motor to the wheel?! It is disconnected!
I have follow focus nucleus-n 1, it turns out that there was a curious person who put 14v into my nucleus, and it burned! :C long story! Now I only have the engine left, can I just buy a nucleus two? the new one that came out and use it with the engine?
Very informative video!
I know this video isn’t about this product, but how do you think the nano 2 compares to the PDMovie Live Air 3 Smart?
At a guess, the PDMovie probably had all its functionality at time of release but the Nano looks like it was released 6 months too early and virtually every part of it is in beta! 😂 😢
is there a firmware update for the original nucleus nano (v1)? I can not find it
The Nano record function works with my FX30 while the Nano II does not.
"it has a display" => that's already enough for me :))
the display is really nice! but i will say, there's something to be said about the simplicity of the Nano 1 just working haha
Honestly, my biggest worry is that the new nucleus with its internal tech and rubber hand wheel is more fragile and won't last as long as the more sturdy build and wooden handle of the original, thoughts?
On my wooden handle, the wood dried and snapped. It still holds but has a clean break going through it.
I like the new one...
😮
Yeah, it works well and has so much more tech packed into it!
@@chadwin I do have a curious question though.
As somebody who does have the old one, and was thinking of buying the new one.
Can I use the old one, in parallel with the new one?
I would use the old controller and everything.
Just would like to know, say for example, use the old one for zooming purposes, on a makeshift rig with a zoom lens... While the new one will be used for the actual focus.
I'm just wondering if the frequencies get tangled up or not.
And for reference, I was thinking of a permanent rig for streaming purposes, so that whomever used it, does not have to physically touch the rig in question.
IDK man, it feels gimmicky? The granular control its nice, but its not like you have this 10 sets of lenses that you need to jump confings on the fly from and to in a shoot. Mabie that could be an app for customize it. the one function I would expect from a device with this granular control and menus is set A-B focus points. As a solo shooter for a moderate complex shot on a gimbal, or pairing it with a slider for a perfect match cut or whatever, that could be really a game changer.
I get what you’re saying. I will say though it’s very nice to be able to configure the device without an iPhone and app, cause we all know that can be a real headache sometimes.
It does allow you to easily set A/B focus points and you can use them with haptic feedback or hard stops. You can actually set multiple focus points if you have more than 2.
@@chadwin gotta stop watching and editing at the same time then. In that case I'm all in with this bad boy hahaha
@@SebasSant87 hahaha! I do the same thing all the time. life of an editor and creator--we're always multi-tasking. But then I just have to end up rewinding and watching parts again that I zoned out on.
That's fine because that functionality doesn't work yet and who knows when and if it might.
I
The micro USB input into the Nano v1 isn't for power, just firmware updates - unless there's a "v1 mark II" - which is a major drawback compared to the new version.
Yeah. I’m pretty sure you’re right! For some reason in my mind I thought I remember powering it via USB micro also, but maybe it was only for updates ever 😅
There must be another version, I power my hand wheel via the USB micro socket.
@ I belatedly discovered that mine can in fact be powered via USB without issue. Bit of a weird one, I'm not sure if the documentation changed or what.
The nato attachment is losen up idk what to do it's poorly designed
Non removable battery on the nano 2? 🤦♂️ they can’t be serious. In a few years time it will last for half the time. Not a wise thing to do.
It would help if you spelled DIFFERENCES right..
lol. That would’ve made all the difference🤓