I’m hoping Brent just goes more Lynchian. Long black and white shots of eating Funyons while he puts out a cigarette on a mini to test something. Close ups of oil-stained fingers dragging across a Monopoly board. Somewhere his cats are eating a rabbit. Brent looks to the camera, takes a drag from a cigarette, “Welcome to Goobertown, no one leaves.”
I'm a woodworker as well as a mini/model enthusiast and have been using varnishes/polyurethane/shellacs for years. The only real diference between matte/satin/gloss are the flatteners that are added to reduce shine. No, gloss does not protect better than matte. The reason to add a gloss coat would be to 1 protect paint from being stained by a wash (paints and the flatteners used in matte varnish are easily stained by washes and inks) or to provide a glassy surface for applying decals. That's it. If you aren't doing either, a coat of matte will protect your minis just fine (and yes, you always want to protect them).
And then wich Varnish or combo is better? I want to paint World Eaters (red colours). Gloss - i hate *sparky* lightly on mini. Matte - bright colours after that looks more darker. Satin = gloss Optimal combo is gloss + matte?
@@catyara I would go with a gloss coat before the decals and then use a satin finish, especially given the metallics I'm sure you're using for all the gold. A matte finish will flatten the gold sheen far too much.
@@anthonymaravola3966 Thanks for the information. Much obliged. For years many have sworn to first adding a gloss varnish and then going over with two thin coats with either satin or matt varnish. Since I still have a bottle of gloss left I'll stick to this method for its remainder.
Oh! The Pawn'a'rium kickstarter with those orange dwarfs is still live for a few more hours! I thought the idea of busts as game pieces was pretty fun. www.kickstarter.com/projects/pawnarium/pawnarium-miniatures-1-stl-files?ref=discovery&term=pawnarium
My OCD needs to comment and highlight some variables that may not be accounted for: Back in ye oldehammer days before plastic, the gloss varnish was generally not an acrylic, because its JUST acrylic, received wisdom (from ancient white dwarfs and wargames books) recommended spirit based varnishes, usually from an art shop or an automotive or yacht varnish spray, which is more hard wearing than an acrylic varnish. THEN you would go over with your matt, which also tended to be non acrylic. I'm not convinced of any difference between matt and gloss vanish of any one kind, except that matt is likely to suffer greater friction due to a less slippy surface. From personal experiment there's not really any benefit to priming plastic other than as a nice canvass to work on, GW primers are just spray acrylic anyway, they don't have any actual priming qualities like surface etching, as found in 'real' primers, because acrylic bonds pretty well to Poly Plastic it seems. Metal minis however benefit from a REAL primer for sure (but almost certainly not very much from a spray can of GW acrylic). Next: is the 3D printer resin actually the same as casting resin as used in mini casting? I'd suggest at the very least the difference is that cast resin would potentially leech out plasticisers and mold release if fresh. Maybe.... I don't know anything about 3d Printers but thought I'd raise this FOR PSEUDOSCIENCE. Lastly...it looked like the tape was squashing the foam somewhat, which would create a much firmer grasp on the internal minis, minimising any potential wriggle room (and therefore friction) compared to being placed in a normal case, and I think without the wriggle room you aren't going to get the friction and potential wear on the same level as the real thing. Sorry for all the WHAT ABOUTS, it's a damn fine service you are providing, thank you!. FOR SCIENCE!!
I use Testors dullcote / glosscote and some spray cans that aren't acryllic, as well as some AK interactive "ultra matte" acrylic which is actually ULTRA matte. Don't want to get carried away brushing on that testors stuff cuz it starts to soften the paint
That was an interesting experiment and helps to confirm what I have been doing in the past such as priming, painting and clear coating. Thanks for taking the time to do this experiment and sharing the results.
A new word for my vocabulary: "Funyunated" and as someone who likes Funyuns, I am glad to see them being useful in scientific endeavors. And of course, glad to see your cats are properly supervising your work.
Thank you so much for the time you spend in testing so I don't have to. Your rigor and dedication are among the many things that make this my current favorite channel on youtube. And your cats help quite a bit with that too!
Haven’t been watching TH-cam for a while as I have been worrying about and writing my dissertation. This instantly puts a smile on my face and I feel relaxed, thank you for your content and relaxing voice!
Thanks Brent for doing this experiment instead of us. The result was expected, but it is good to get a "scientific" confirmation that all that varnish I used was not in vain :)
i do have a request maybe for a special occasion in the far future. i loved the random figure and dice roll you've created. you remember the video where you had the bar and multiple figures? what if you have a few building and furniture that is randomly decided (like the bar setup) then 2-3 figures randomly decided. you'll then have to roll dice for the theme as usual. the biggest challenge would be creating a scene. maybe you have a cottage with a royal guard and assasin. is the royal guard hiring the assasin for a dark deed? possible treason against the corrupt king perhaps? dwarf and high elf at a pub arguing who is the mightiest? you're amazing at combining and creating stories. it would be an awesome event in my opinion. I'm sure it's expensive, but maybe once a year special or a one time thing. you're creation has no limits! I love this channel.
Brent, thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos for us. It can be difficult finding concise info for some of the more obscure aspects of hobbying but hot damn you always come through for us with that awesome science brain!! Cheers :D
This actually proves something I've been convinced of for some time: Priming is a leftover practice from the days of mostly metal miniatures, and mostly or even entirely unneccessary for plastic and resin minis. I've never used primer on a plastic or resin model in my life - only ever basecoated with regular paint - and haven't had a single negative experience with it.
love putting your videos on in the background when painting man. Got back into the hobby last year and your videos have been a massive help. Keep up the great work :)
I love your content, the perfect blend of informative, wholesome, relaxing, with some humor thrown in. I almost always have your videos on in the background while I paint or model. Your videos have helped me become a better painter, and a more patient person, you even inspired me to pick up the paint brush after a long hiatus from fighting off the black dog. Much thanks for the videos and I'm looking forward to your next video.
My understanding is that Gloss followed by Matte is less for protection and more to make applying waterslide decals easier. The gloss is nice and flat for the decal to sit on and adhere to while the matte takes off the gloss’s shine and helps the edges of the waterslide blend in.
Dude thanks so much for the time and effort you've put into these tests and videos. The discipline involved and time put into it is amazing. Thank so much man. I will def be sharing this video my friend.
I just saw this, a little but what a great video! I love and appreciate proper testing, thanks for taking the time to do this. Looking forward to reviewing your other videos.
You know, i build scale models for a few years now (also here on youtube), and i have some experience with primers and clear coats. I tried many primers and i can honestly say now that vallejo primers are probably the worst for scale models. Priming is essential and for me primer must be durable, must be able to fill a tiny scratches and work as a microfiller and last, you should be able to sand it if you see any imperfections on the model when you prime it. Im sure this is not such an issue with mini figures, but it's really importand on model kits to be able to sand it after you primed the model, and this is where Vallejo primers really sucks. Since these are acrylic primer, there is no chemical reaction betwen the primer and plastic, so primer is only a skin on top of it and when you start to sand it, its just startin to peel off and thats a terrible durability. for plastic models u suggest using lacquer based Mr.Surfacer 1500 (that also work as microfiller) thinned with Mr.Leveling thinner. Since its a lacquer based paint, it kind of melts itself with a surface beneth and leveling thinner helps the primer to level itself on the surface. That gives super durability and the surface is sandable too. Believe me, you will see the quality when you test these against vinyl primers like vallejo especially when you gonna build some 40k vehicles. I also highly recommend lacquer based varnishes like mr.color GX super clear . Awesome channel mate, im sure watching your videos will help me paint my Fallout wasteland warfare minis :)
Now I want a bowl of funions! Never painted with medal minis before. Thanks so much for the appreciation you show to your craft. These experiences make us all better hobbyists! You rock Brent!
This video and the last deserves my like and a comment just for the sheer commitment to thorough testing.. also, I really need to sit down and varnish the rest of my minis!
One other advantage about doing a gloss coat and then matte over it is that varnish can probably wear over time. Thus, if you start to see some shine poking through, you know it's time to give it another coat of matte.
Please keep making more videos! Not to many youtubers keep up the great content like you do. This is obviously a passion hobby for you. That is what counts!
another experiment that could be interesting is what is the best way to clean of Cheeto of Funyuns dust without damaging the paint. maybe see if there is a difference between if you clean them right away, like when you got home from a tournament vs if the oil and dust was left to sit for a few days
Thank you for these videos, I just started getting into the hobby and this has helped me answer definitively whether or not I want to bother varnishing, I think I will just for the added protection against greasy fingers!
I spend a lot of time painting my minis to a high display standard, and I always protect them with a layer of a very sturdy varnish which is a bit glossy, and then I put a layer of matt varnish on top for a super-matt, true to the colors finish. The best protection, however, ist the following: I magnetize all bazes and transport the minis in metal boxes - there's no foam rubbing against them. I also always only touch the minis at their base rim, and other people are only allowed to touch them there. Should someone not abide by these rules, his or her hands are in jeopardy. I also build large models with lighting and all bells and whistles - mostly Star Wars. These have to be touched in order to move them, put them into a box for transport or set them up for display. I found a very cool method to protect them: I varnish them matt first, and then mist a sturdy, satin-gloss varnish on top. The sturdy varnish partly mixes with the matt first layer and becomes less satin and more matt, and it also creates a slightly rough surface on a microskopic level. The result is very sturdy, and because of the microscopic roughness repells fluids not dissimilar to teflon. What's more, because of the tiny roughness, the surfaces are also super-matt, even with harsh light reflecting off them at a very shallow angle, at which normally almost every matt varnish starts to appear glossy.
I remember reading on a forum years ago that gloss isnt any better than matte at protection, but if you want two coats, two layers of matte will obscure blends and such more than a coat of gloss and then a coat of matte will. It sounded good, so I've been working with that in mind. :P
thats really cool that the sprayed matte and sprayed gloss both held up the same. im new to the hobby so i dont have any superstitions :p so ill spray matte for protection and just use my gloss varnish when i want to cause something to run like a mad man when im using oil washes.
Kudo's for pushing mini's in such a way that it looks good when speeded up (and thanks for the results, very insightful-I usually do two coats of gloss over a metal mini). And also kudo's keep on moving the mini's it even when your cat tried to sabotage the vid :D
Just got my first orderd varnish today and I was planning on spraying it. Great timing on the test Brent! :) Also, the fast time-lapse looks very nice.
This is great (and also a very good use of a monopoly board). Keep them coming! I love your hobby science stuff! As for the video wishes- It would be great to see something about re-basing figures without damaging them too badly in one of your future videos.
I must say Brent... I really love your videos. I know this was a while ago but I really liked the video when you picked a model to paint that sparked your excitement at the moment. This video (the one today) was very creative and your cats are adorable! :)
I've been working on hand painting keyboard kyecaps and it is widely held in the community that you can't paint and protect them. This matches up pretty closely with my findings! I can't say enough how much I appreciate your science :3
Awesome! I have been waiting for this video since the last one, it left me with a burning desire to know matte vs gloss vs combo. Love it! Thank you for your service. We will remember the sacrifice of the fallen Funions fondly.
Man, it is actually a very good experiment, you helped me with the decision of start putting some varnish in my beautifully painted miniatures. As weird as it looks like, this video is purely scientific.
Honestly just want to thank you for putting yourself through this just to get an answer. Doing the exact same task for 6 hours straight (even with cats) is damn hard. Thanks dude. I might invest in a small airbrush and varnish because of this.
Primer is more for when you're painting, so you are less likely to rub off paint if it bumps or if you touch the mini with your fingers during painting
Have you ever considered testing different kinds of varnish (acrylic, polyurethane, enamel, etc.)? I’ve heard a lot of people say acrylic isn’t as protective as polyurethane or enamel. Since you already tested the “worst” kind and found it’s protective against light wear like handling and foam, maybe some metal minis and your shake test like you did with the goblins for a very aggressive test could get fairly quick results that don’t involve four hours of effort.
Its experiment time! What about fluids? Eg if someone spilt beer / coke / mountain dew / energy drink / water on a mini how long does it take to remove paint (just chuck minis in a bowl of each and check on them every x minutes) on from a varnished / unvarnished / primed and so on mini. For the above sugary fluids what's the best way to clean that off without damaging paintwork?
Whiskey, and whiskey and coke would probably be the most aggressive standard gaming fluids. Outside of the alcohol, the phosphoric acid can play merry hob on a lot of varnishes and sealants.
Presumably, once oils get on to the paint of an unvarnished mini there is some degradation over time that wouldn’t have shown up in this test? A bit like print photographs showing fingers prints. Maybe you could but some of the sample set into a box out of direct sunlight and check them after 6 or 12 months? Just to see what, if anything, happens?
I know I learned something from this... that Brent is the most dedicated miniature mad scientist in any universe, would terrify a haemonculus with his sadistic torturous methods and clearly has transhuman physiology. You really do put a shift in sir.
I learnt from wood working gloss then matte because matte over matte dulls the paint as the gloss starts to turn opaque. I noticed it on my models too so now I do gloss then matte (because I like 2 coats of varnish).
I thought I was slightly nutz for doing a D20 dice probability test, rolling two sets of 4 dice 100 times. I found that one brand rolled slightly higher. Not a big difference.
I can't say I'd push around minis for six hours like this just to test varnish. Mad respect, I'm gonna apply varnish to my most used minis now for sure.
Wtf.... Thank you so much for your effort. You pretty nice and crazy gamer dude. Love you, you are the reason I'm back in the hobby since I saw a video from you a few years ago
Soo now that you have concluded that warnish really work i would sugest putting the resin models in a foam container as a big pile and then back into the tumbler ^^ This would create some heavy duty friction ( and allso quite possibly damage the models, but if they are resin prints then... ) would be very insteresting to se if that would set them apart. Great video btw keep those funnyuns flowing :-)
Well Sir this was an interesting video! I applaud your efforts and Geeeez! that's a lot of moving mini's! My muscles got tired just watching you do all the motivating too! I am enjoying my delve into your video library, Thanks!
As Always, very informative and I love these videos as I always learn something new, and something that is very relevant. I didn't know about varnishing the models and now after watching both videos I know to varnish, which one to use And! how best to apply it. Like I said Very! informative video.
Thanks for doing these! I'd love to see the effects of: Clean minis run through this process, then primed, and maybe a coat of paint or varnish, before being run through again. Why? I've often played with un painted minis, and I'm pretty sure the loss of durability is because of the oils on my hands while playing with them.
Video idea: Washing different kinds of miniatures before painting and its effects on painting the model. I know I probably wouldn't need to do it, but I still like to wash even my new GW plastics before painting out of superstition.
Brent. You can just buy and eat Funyuns because you want to. You don't need to create these experiments as an excuse. It's OK.
this changes everything.
Why did you tell him !!
tax deductable funyuns
Lololol
When is the Goobertown Magic Craft crossover coming, where Brent makes terrain and Jeremy does Funion testing?
Can we just appreciate how Brent spent 6 hours of his life pushing minis for the greater good of the hobby community?
for the greater good.
@@GoobertownHobbies You should have had Guinness there to get the record for longest time at a Monopoly board without flipping the table over.
@@GoobertownHobbies Trying to decide if this is a T'au thing or a Hot Fuzz thing.
There's a whole bunch of murderising either way, I suppose.
@@GoobertownHobbies Tau'va
@@GoobertownHobbies This is the way!
>"These experiments are fun"
> moving minis around a monopoly board for 6+ hours.
Brent, are you ok?
LOL 'Blink Twice if Frito-Lay is holding you hostage as a way to advertise Funyuns!'
The man has a PhD. In chemistry this involves 3 years of adding solvents together. Same same
thank the lord there are podcasts ;D
I’m hoping Brent just goes more Lynchian. Long black and white shots of eating Funyons while he puts out a cigarette on a mini to test something. Close ups of oil-stained fingers dragging across a Monopoly board. Somewhere his cats are eating a rabbit.
Brent looks to the camera, takes a drag from a cigarette, “Welcome to Goobertown, no one leaves.”
check back in a few years :-)
I'll see you again in 25 years.
I'm a woodworker as well as a mini/model enthusiast and have been using varnishes/polyurethane/shellacs for years. The only real diference between matte/satin/gloss are the flatteners that are added to reduce shine. No, gloss does not protect better than matte. The reason to add a gloss coat would be to 1 protect paint from being stained by a wash (paints and the flatteners used in matte varnish are easily stained by washes and inks) or to provide a glassy surface for applying decals. That's it. If you aren't doing either, a coat of matte will protect your minis just fine (and yes, you always want to protect them).
makes sense to me! :-)
And then wich Varnish or combo is better? I want to paint World Eaters (red colours). Gloss - i hate *sparky* lightly on mini.
Matte - bright colours after that looks more darker.
Satin = gloss
Optimal combo is gloss + matte?
@@catyara I would go with a gloss coat before the decals and then use a satin finish, especially given the metallics I'm sure you're using for all the gold. A matte finish will flatten the gold sheen far too much.
@@anthonymaravola3966 Thanks for the information. Much obliged.
For years many have sworn to first adding a gloss varnish and then going over with two thin coats with either satin or matt varnish. Since I still have a bottle of gloss left I'll stick to this method for its remainder.
"I wonder how he's going to do the abrasion test. Maybe he'll toss them in the dryer or something..."
7:52
"Oh dear lord he's really doing it..."
awww yeahhh!!!! :-)
Broke: going to the gym to work out
Woke: moving metal minis around a board 2,000 times to get swole
First frame: Brent grinning into a camera and holding up a bag of chips.
Me: "Oh, it's that time again."
I haven't seen him do this before, all I could think was, "no, no, he's not gonna do it!"
Better grab your balloons and invite your friends!
Oh boy, the Funions are back... Never thought I'd see Sisters suffering side-by-side with Gretchins...
"But will you suffer side by side with a friend?"
I appreciate how you dive in and give gamers the answers they need! You are on the dangerous, cutting edge of Tabletop science.
I appreciate that you've only got 2 ads for a full video unlike other youtubers that throw 9 ads in
Oh! The Pawn'a'rium kickstarter with those orange dwarfs is still live for a few more hours! I thought the idea of busts as game pieces was pretty fun. www.kickstarter.com/projects/pawnarium/pawnarium-miniatures-1-stl-files?ref=discovery&term=pawnarium
So it's sell em or bust?
thanks
My OCD needs to comment and highlight some variables that may not be accounted for:
Back in ye oldehammer days before plastic, the gloss varnish was generally not an acrylic, because its JUST acrylic, received wisdom (from ancient white dwarfs and wargames books) recommended spirit based varnishes, usually from an art shop or an automotive or yacht varnish spray, which is more hard wearing than an acrylic varnish. THEN you would go over with your matt, which also tended to be non acrylic. I'm not convinced of any difference between matt and gloss vanish of any one kind, except that matt is likely to suffer greater friction due to a less slippy surface.
From personal experiment there's not really any benefit to priming plastic other than as a nice canvass to work on, GW primers are just spray acrylic anyway, they don't have any actual priming qualities like surface etching, as found in 'real' primers, because acrylic bonds pretty well to Poly Plastic it seems. Metal minis however benefit from a REAL primer for sure (but almost certainly not very much from a spray can of GW acrylic).
Next: is the 3D printer resin actually the same as casting resin as used in mini casting? I'd suggest at the very least the difference is that cast resin would potentially leech out plasticisers and mold release if fresh. Maybe.... I don't know anything about 3d Printers but thought I'd raise this FOR PSEUDOSCIENCE.
Lastly...it looked like the tape was squashing the foam somewhat, which would create a much firmer grasp on the internal minis, minimising any potential wriggle room (and therefore friction) compared to being placed in a normal case, and I think without the wriggle room you aren't going to get the friction and potential wear on the same level as the real thing.
Sorry for all the WHAT ABOUTS, it's a damn fine service you are providing, thank you!. FOR SCIENCE!!
Hey, the what abouts are important! :-) This is an iterative process. I'll be referring to this list the next time I get hungry for funyuns!
I use Testors dullcote / glosscote and some spray cans that aren't acryllic, as well as some AK interactive "ultra matte" acrylic which is actually ULTRA matte. Don't want to get carried away brushing on that testors stuff cuz it starts to soften the paint
Oddly satisfying watching the sped up video at the end, and seeing the dice shuffle across the board from the vibrations of the pieces moving around.
right? makes it all worth it :-)
Mate, I"m impressed by your determination.... 6 hours moving miniatures.... Did you have visions while doing this?
You wouldn't believe the things I saw...
@@GoobertownHobbies Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion?
@@PhantomJavelin there's no way we can know if it was raining during the experiment, but I can guarantee there were tears.
I feel personally attacked by this title
I recommend 1 gloss 1 matte coat as it reduces chances for fogging and also tells you when and where to revarnish in the future
Yeah that is a nice bonus! easy to see as you're applying the coats too.
That was an interesting experiment and helps to confirm what I have been doing in the past such as priming, painting and clear coating. Thanks for taking the time to do this experiment and sharing the results.
Watching that model shuffle around the board is still hypnotic. Give us a 10-hour cut with some gentle music as a sleep aid!
A new word for my vocabulary: "Funyunated" and as someone who likes Funyuns, I am glad to see them being useful in scientific endeavors. And of course, glad to see your cats are properly supervising your work.
Thank you so much for the time you spend in testing so I don't have to. Your rigor and dedication are among the many things that make this my current favorite channel on youtube. And your cats help quite a bit with that too!
Hey thanks! glad it's sort of useful! :-)
Haven’t been watching TH-cam for a while as I have been worrying about and writing my dissertation. This instantly puts a smile on my face and I feel relaxed, thank you for your content and relaxing voice!
You legend. Can't believe you repeated this. The dedication is impressive.
It's for the love of time lapses
Thanks Brent for doing this experiment instead of us. The result was expected, but it is good to get a "scientific" confirmation that all that varnish I used was not in vain :)
The incremental movement of the dice as you move the minis around the board look so cool under time lapse.
i do have a request maybe for a special occasion in the far future.
i loved the random figure and dice roll you've created. you remember the video where you had the bar and multiple figures?
what if you have a few building and furniture that is randomly decided (like the bar setup) then 2-3 figures randomly decided. you'll then have to roll dice for the theme as usual. the biggest challenge would be creating a scene. maybe you have a cottage with a royal guard and assasin. is the royal guard hiring the assasin for a dark deed? possible treason against the corrupt king perhaps?
dwarf and high elf at a pub arguing who is the mightiest?
you're amazing at combining and creating stories. it would be an awesome event in my opinion. I'm sure it's expensive, but maybe once a year special or a one time thing. you're creation has no limits! I love this channel.
Brent, thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos for us. It can be difficult finding concise info for some of the more obscure aspects of hobbying but hot damn you always come through for us with that awesome science brain!! Cheers :D
This actually proves something I've been convinced of for some time:
Priming is a leftover practice from the days of mostly metal miniatures, and mostly or even entirely unneccessary for plastic and resin minis.
I've never used primer on a plastic or resin model in my life - only ever basecoated with regular paint - and haven't had a single negative experience with it.
love putting your videos on in the background when painting man. Got back into the hobby last year and your videos have been a massive help. Keep up the great work :)
I love your content, the perfect blend of informative, wholesome, relaxing, with some humor thrown in. I almost always have your videos on in the background while I paint or model. Your videos have helped me become a better painter, and a more patient person, you even inspired me to pick up the paint brush after a long hiatus from fighting off the black dog. Much thanks for the videos and I'm looking forward to your next video.
My understanding is that Gloss followed by Matte is less for protection and more to make applying waterslide decals easier. The gloss is nice and flat for the decal to sit on and adhere to while the matte takes off the gloss’s shine and helps the edges of the waterslide blend in.
Dude thanks so much for the time and effort you've put into these tests and videos. The discipline involved and time put into it is amazing. Thank so much man. I will def be sharing this video my friend.
I just saw this, a little but what a great video! I love and appreciate proper testing, thanks for taking the time to do this. Looking forward to reviewing your other videos.
"not the hero we deserved, but the hero we needed!"
OMG I can't believe you spent over 6hrs on this your arms must be knackered.
You know, i build scale models for a few years now (also here on youtube), and i have some experience with primers and clear coats. I tried many primers and i can honestly say now that vallejo primers are probably the worst for scale models. Priming is essential and for me primer must be durable, must be able to fill a tiny scratches and work as a microfiller and last, you should be able to sand it if you see any imperfections on the model when you prime it. Im sure this is not such an issue with mini figures, but it's really importand on model kits to be able to sand it after you primed the model, and this is where Vallejo primers really sucks. Since these are acrylic primer, there is no chemical reaction betwen the primer and plastic, so primer is only a skin on top of it and when you start to sand it, its just startin to peel off and thats a terrible durability. for plastic models u suggest using lacquer based Mr.Surfacer 1500 (that also work as microfiller) thinned with Mr.Leveling thinner. Since its a lacquer based paint, it kind of melts itself with a surface beneth and leveling thinner helps the primer to level itself on the surface. That gives super durability and the surface is sandable too. Believe me, you will see the quality when you test these against vinyl primers like vallejo especially when you gonna build some 40k vehicles. I also highly recommend lacquer based varnishes like mr.color GX super clear . Awesome channel mate, im sure watching your videos will help me paint my Fallout wasteland warfare minis :)
Now I want a bowl of funions! Never painted with medal minis before. Thanks so much for the appreciation you show to your craft. These experiences make us all better hobbyists! You rock Brent!
Thank you for all you do! I'm new to this all and trying to do everything as correctly as I can.
3:56 The bust minis really gives me some Battle Brothers vibes. Very cool! And that reminds me I need to play that some more..
One of the most understudied fields of miniature science. You’re a hero to civilization
My man sat for HOURS and moved minis for an experiment. This is dedication for the greater good. Thank you sir.
I appreciate your unwavering dedication to science. The Omnissiah would be pleased.
This video and the last deserves my like and a comment just for the sheer commitment to thorough testing.. also, I really need to sit down and varnish the rest of my minis!
One other advantage about doing a gloss coat and then matte over it is that varnish can probably wear over time. Thus, if you start to see some shine poking through, you know it's time to give it another coat of matte.
I love how the time lapse makes it look the dice are slowly trying to run away while you aren't looking at them.
I noticed this too! xD
Please keep making more videos! Not to many youtubers keep up the great content like you do. This is obviously a passion hobby for you. That is what counts!
another experiment that could be interesting is what is the best way to clean of Cheeto of Funyuns dust without damaging the paint. maybe see if there is a difference between if you clean them right away, like when you got home from a tournament vs if the oil and dust was left to sit for a few days
hehehe, that would be a lot of fun!!! Must start acquiring cheeto dust!! :-)
Thank you for these videos, I just started getting into the hobby and this has helped me answer definitively whether or not I want to bother varnishing, I think I will just for the added protection against greasy fingers!
Your commitment is truly appreciated, science (and the community) thanks you for your sacrifice!
I've been loving these tests, the conclusions keep being similar but not quite what you expect, and i love being surprised by the results :D
I spend a lot of time painting my minis to a high display standard, and I always protect them with a layer of a very sturdy varnish which is a bit glossy, and then I put a layer of matt varnish on top for a super-matt, true to the colors finish. The best protection, however, ist the following: I magnetize all bazes and transport the minis in metal boxes - there's no foam rubbing against them. I also always only touch the minis at their base rim, and other people are only allowed to touch them there. Should someone not abide by these rules, his or her hands are in jeopardy.
I also build large models with lighting and all bells and whistles - mostly Star Wars. These have to be touched in order to move them, put them into a box for transport or set them up for display. I found a very cool method to protect them: I varnish them matt first, and then mist a sturdy, satin-gloss varnish on top. The sturdy varnish partly mixes with the matt first layer and becomes less satin and more matt, and it also creates a slightly rough surface on a microskopic level. The result is very sturdy, and because of the microscopic roughness repells fluids not dissimilar to teflon. What's more, because of the tiny roughness, the surfaces are also super-matt, even with harsh light reflecting off them at a very shallow angle, at which normally almost every matt varnish starts to appear glossy.
I remember reading on a forum years ago that gloss isnt any better than matte at protection, but if you want two coats, two layers of matte will obscure blends and such more than a coat of gloss and then a coat of matte will. It sounded good, so I've been working with that in mind. :P
Yeah all Matte is, is gloss with Chalk mixed in. It sprotection is 1:1.
Man, I totally love these videos, thank you Papa Goob 🙏
thats really cool that the sprayed matte and sprayed gloss both held up the same. im new to the hobby so i dont have any superstitions :p so ill spray matte for protection and just use my gloss varnish when i want to cause something to run like a mad man when im using oil washes.
Kudo's for pushing mini's in such a way that it looks good when speeded up (and thanks for the results, very insightful-I usually do two coats of gloss over a metal mini). And also kudo's keep on moving the mini's it even when your cat tried to sabotage the vid :D
hahaha, those cats do love funyuns! :-)
Just gon hit this with a like and comment for the sheer amount of work you put into this
I love this one giving me ideas to paint Gandalf and the Balrog on Bridge of Khazad-dûm love it, you always fire me up to paint and push myself
Just got my first orderd varnish today and I was planning on spraying it. Great timing on the test Brent! :)
Also, the fast time-lapse looks very nice.
woooo!!! protect them!!!
This is great (and also a very good use of a monopoly board). Keep them coming! I love your hobby science stuff!
As for the video wishes- It would be great to see something about re-basing figures without damaging them too badly in one of your future videos.
While the results were pretty much what I expected, it is always good to have confirmation. And your videos are just so relaxing...
I must say Brent... I really love your videos. I know this was a while ago but I really liked the video when you picked a model to paint that sparked your excitement at the moment. This video (the one today) was very creative and your cats are adorable! :)
hey glad you're having fun! Me too :-)
I've been working on hand painting keyboard kyecaps and it is widely held in the community that you can't paint and protect them. This matches up pretty closely with my findings! I can't say enough how much I appreciate your science :3
I think Brent might just be making these videos whenever he has a hankering for funions.
shhh!!!!
Awesome! I have been waiting for this video since the last one, it left me with a burning desire to know matte vs gloss vs combo. Love it! Thank you for your service. We will remember the sacrifice of the fallen Funions fondly.
anytime! happy to help :-)
Man, it is actually a very good experiment, you helped me with the decision of start putting some varnish in my beautifully painted miniatures. As weird as it looks like, this video is purely scientific.
9:10 I like watching the dice migrate across the board in the time lapse
Man! Your dedication is astounding!
Brent, your dedication is incredible and an inspiration. Wow!
Damn now that's greasy, it's like the Peloponnesian War on that Monopoly board
Wow, I didn't expect you to do a test like this. Respect and thank you. What a hassle.
Honestly just want to thank you for putting yourself through this just to get an answer. Doing the exact same task for 6 hours straight (even with cats) is damn hard. Thanks dude. I might invest in a small airbrush and varnish because of this.
Oh yeah! Greasy gamer is back!
Primer is more for when you're painting, so you are less likely to rub off paint if it bumps or if you touch the mini with your fingers during painting
0:37 seconds in and im asking myself..."am i tripping or is Brent using some crazy warp magic"
Have you ever considered testing different kinds of varnish (acrylic, polyurethane, enamel, etc.)? I’ve heard a lot of people say acrylic isn’t as protective as polyurethane or enamel. Since you already tested the “worst” kind and found it’s protective against light wear like handling and foam, maybe some metal minis and your shake test like you did with the goblins for a very aggressive test could get fairly quick results that don’t involve four hours of effort.
Your dedication to this craft is unrivalled! Thank you!
Dwarf Slayer conga line. Hilarious and deadly.
Its experiment time! What about fluids? Eg if someone spilt beer / coke / mountain dew / energy drink / water on a mini how long does it take to remove paint (just chuck minis in a bowl of each and check on them every x minutes) on from a varnished / unvarnished / primed and so on mini. For the above sugary fluids what's the best way to clean that off without damaging paintwork?
Hehehe, that would be a fun test :-)
Whiskey, and whiskey and coke would probably be the most aggressive standard gaming fluids. Outside of the alcohol, the phosphoric acid can play merry hob on a lot of varnishes and sealants.
Presumably, once oils get on to the paint of an unvarnished mini there is some degradation over time that wouldn’t have shown up in this test? A bit like print photographs showing fingers prints. Maybe you could but some of the sample set into a box out of direct sunlight and check them after 6 or 12 months? Just to see what, if anything, happens?
I love it! You are quickly becoming the miniature myth buster!!!
wooo!!! :-)
I appreciate that the snack remains consistent to mitigate the variables in this experiment
I know I learned something from this... that Brent is the most dedicated miniature mad scientist in any universe, would terrify a haemonculus with his sadistic torturous methods and clearly has transhuman physiology.
You really do put a shift in sir.
I'm glad that I've switched to sprayed varnish, thanks for the video!
I learnt from wood working gloss then matte because matte over matte dulls the paint as the gloss starts to turn opaque. I noticed it on my models too so now I do gloss then matte (because I like 2 coats of varnish).
Thank you for all the effort you take to make us these videos!!!
The dedication is insane, thank you for this!
I thought I was slightly nutz for doing a D20 dice probability test, rolling two sets of 4 dice 100 times. I found that one brand rolled slightly higher. Not a big difference.
I'm just happy that you finally got to eat the second bag of funions!!!!
me too! (and it actually was the same bag from the first vid hahahaha)
@@GoobertownHobbies A+++++
I can't say I'd push around minis for six hours like this just to test varnish.
Mad respect, I'm gonna apply varnish to my most used minis now for sure.
Your dedication to mindnumbing tasks in the name of science and for our entertainment is absolutely astounding. You really earned that bag of Funyuns.
Wtf.... Thank you so much for your effort. You pretty nice and crazy gamer dude. Love you, you are the reason I'm back in the hobby since I saw a video from you a few years ago
I feel bad that you spent so much time but it is in the name of science for minis. I congratulate you on your dedication to science.
Soo now that you have concluded that warnish really work i would sugest putting the resin models in a foam container as a big pile and then back into the tumbler ^^
This would create some heavy duty friction ( and allso quite possibly damage the models, but if they are resin prints then... ) would be very insteresting to se if that would set them apart.
Great video btw keep those funnyuns flowing :-)
Well Sir this was an interesting video! I applaud your efforts and Geeeez! that's a lot of moving mini's! My muscles got tired just watching you do all the motivating too! I am enjoying my delve into your video library, Thanks!
I really appreciate these practical tests you do! Excellent content :D
I have never seen anybody with that much dedication move miniature figures around a monopoly board
I Love these types of experiments! Keep em coming!
As Always, very informative and I love these videos as I always learn something new, and something that is very relevant. I didn't know about varnishing the models and now after watching both videos I know to varnish, which one to use And! how best to apply it.
Like I said Very! informative video.
"these little experiments are fun" .... we need to get this poor, poor man some dire help :'(
Thanks for doing these! I'd love to see the effects of: Clean minis run through this process, then primed, and maybe a coat of paint or varnish, before being run through again. Why? I've often played with un painted minis, and I'm pretty sure the loss of durability is because of the oils on my hands while playing with them.
Video idea: Washing different kinds of miniatures before painting and its effects on painting the model. I know I probably wouldn't need to do it, but I still like to wash even my new GW plastics before painting out of superstition.