We recently built a new home and moved in May 5th. Encapsulation was part of the build. I have added the ventilation fan I bought from your DIY store. The rim joists are not air sealed. I am doing that myself. I know you use foam board, but is it ok to pull the rim joist fiberglass insulation, air seal the rim joists, wait for the spay foam to dry and then put the fiberglass back in? Thanks!
Looking for some advice on low cost solutions to keep the crawlspace functional and to prevent or slow down degrading conditions. Live in Michigan high humidity and cold winters. Unfinished crawlspace no insulation the home is not worth more than $110,000 purchased at market value (to give an idea on reasonable fixes. It’s not a forever home. Been quoted $13-$20k for full encapsulation) HAVC ducts run in crawl water lines are in attic. It’s damp and water does collect. Fixing a support beam now $$$$ will run a sump pump for standing water. Is there no way to have any type of minimal insulation added (even to duct work) to help during the cold months without risk of mold growing in it? Or any ideas to make it any more functional without spending more than $5k?
Thanks for all the great advice. I hope you can help me with an issue. The crawl space floor is concrete. There are 2 pony walls. The walls are open 2x4’s, 32” high. One is about 48’ long, the other is about 27’ long. They sit on a concrete curb that varies from 2” up to 6”. How do I deal with installing the dimple and sheet plastic in/around these walls to get an effective encapsulation? I don’t want to close them off as I need to be able to pass thru the walls to access plumbing/electrical in the future. Thanks, Jon
We would like to email about this to go more in -depth - please fill out this form - crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-help-faq/ and we will email you shortly!
I am having an encapsulation done on my crawlspace in Little Rock, AR. They are going to seal the crawlspace vents, but they will install one crawlspace vent fan blowing outward to eliminate soil gases. Is rim joist insulation and sealing the sill plate something I might need to do in addition to the encapsulation? Also, should I ask them to seal off any subfloor penetrations as well?
Glad to hear that they're encapsulating and properly ventilating. We would definitely recommend air sealing and rim joist insulation would be good to have for winter. It will help with the overall comfort in your living space. Check out this video we did that talks about why air sealing is important. th-cam.com/video/otNCxKqez8k/w-d-xo.html
I live in Atlantic Canada very humid I blocked my vents off with r10 and put a commercial dehumidifier down there. Which during the summer was great, but now that it is cold 🥶 my rim joist are terribly wet, as well as the frost wall. Any solutions to dry those rim joists out now that it’s cold an so much condensation
Is the crawl space too cold too turn on the dehumidifier? Does the space have rim joist insulation? If not, could you somehow safely warm the crawl space in order for dehumidifier to turn on the rim joist to dry out then add insulation?
My home in Albuquerque, New Mexico has a vented crawlspace that is completely uninsulated, and the walls of the house are cinder block. The climate is very dry year-round (high desert). I'm planning to leave the crawlspace unencapsulated (as an exterior space) and install poly wrapped fiberglass insulation batts between the floor joists on top of the crawlspace. My question is, for the rim joists, is placing some fiberglass enough, or do I need to install foam boards? I'm thinking maybe there isn't much air flow in the cinder block walls. I'm also planning to leave the bare earth floor of the crawlspace - would prefer for any small water leaks to soak in rather than pond on plastic. Does this sound OK? Will appreciate any advice.
Desert climates are a little out of my comfort zone but the rim joist can allow air to move into the living space no matter the climate if they are not air sealed. I spoke with a man that lives in NV desert and he placed down plastic and sealed it to walls because he was trying to keep desert creatures out. He was not doing it due to moisture. Sorry I don't have a better answer. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate your helpful videos. For my situation maybe someone with experience with a desert climate will be able to add some recommendations. @@CrawlSpaceNinja
Just an update after 6 months. I decided to go with spray polyurethane foam on the ceiling of the crawlspace (between the joists supporting the floor of the house). Although it cost $6000 for 1100 sq. ft. vs $2000 for fiberglass, it seemed to me much more durable and it seals the surfaces including rim joists against air flow much better. I left the sandy floor of the crawl space unsealed. Now in the hot summer I am finding that the foam insulation did improve the performance of our A/C system - before the insulation our relatively new 5-ton rooftop unit couldn't adequately cool the 2900 sq. ft. house, even though it was sized properly. It could only get it down to maybe 81-82 degrees on very hot days. Now, with the added insulation in the crawl space, the A/C can maintain the house at 79 degrees on very hot days, and this feels much better. So I am satisfied having made this decision. We live in an area known to have radon in the soil, so I also bought a radon meter and discovered that during the winter, with no ventilation, the crawl space had about 6 picocuries/L, and inside the house had about 3 picocuries/L. Although the concern/remediation level inside a home is 4 picocuries/L and we were below this level, this was getting uncomfortably close. I added a small exhaust fan in the wooden access door to the crawlspace, keep it running at a modest level constantly, and it reduced the radon concentrations by half or more. Also open up the house when the weather is good. I hope this info is helpful to others.
I live in California and the humidity can get high here. I recently purchase a old house, 1960s build, that did not have any insulation in the walls. This is my first winter in this house. The attic has some insulation, but could be better. I recently got blown in cellulose insulation to the exterior walls in hopes of retaining the heat longer in the house, but it is still drafty, cold and floor are cold as well. I noticed some area of the floor and baseboard has gaps which I filled as well and sealed off small holes and cracks around the house with foam spray. In addition to cold draft and floors during the winter, I have noticed the humidity levels reach around 67% in the home. I am running out of option, but I came across you video. The crawl space is vent and unconditioned. Would sealing the rim joist make a difference in the drafts we are feeling, help with the cold floors and lower the humidity? And when doing the sealing, do I first apply foam spay seal around the rim joist, then put the foam board and then seal again with foam spray? Thanks in advance for your help and great informative videos!!
Our 1960s Tennessee home has rim joist resting directly on concrete block peers. No sill plate. What is your recommendation for (a) air sealing and insulating with no sill plate and also (b) covering or filling the void at the top of the concrete block (Pests like to live in them. Found a dozen snake skins on 1st inspection of the space, which is maybe better than mice).
To go in-depth it is best for a consultation or a Ask a Ninja form. Here are the links and we are excited to hear from you! - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
My crawlspace is encapsulated. For the termite gap, is sealing the exposed brick and mortar with something like "clear" Dylok or Thompson's WaterSeal a good idea? This goes for both inside the crawlspace and or/Outside below the rim joist (I have heard bricks have to breath).
My concern with any product designed to damp proof is can it eventually grow mold. If the products you are wanting to use will not grow mold and they work, I think it is ok. Most likely top/bottom of brick can breathe plus whatever is behind plastic. Thanks for watching, hope that helps. Also, check with your pest company to ensure they don't have rules that could violate there warranty.
@@CrawlSpaceNinja I would be interested in sharing my crawlspace concerns on video with you including your thoughts on outside on the sill plate (concrete to sheathing).
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Depends on the layout of the land and the construction, but the sandier nature of the soil there and low humidity during the summers often permits good drainage to be sufficient for drying crawlspaces. However, dehumidifers are always a good idea during the rainy season, which sometimes feels like it lasts all year long.
![ค้างคืนโรงเก็บกระสวยอวกาศร้างกลางทะเลทราย [Around The World Ep. 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E5bWZQhABJE/mqdefault.jpg)
Best hint I have seen... if insulation is dirty, it means air is flowing thru and the insulation becomes an air filter. Foam those gaps
Nice idea!
We recently built a new home and moved in May 5th. Encapsulation was part of the build. I have added the ventilation fan I bought from your DIY store. The rim joists are not air sealed. I am doing that myself. I know you use foam board, but is it ok to pull the rim joist fiberglass insulation, air seal the rim joists, wait for the spay foam to dry and then put the fiberglass back in? Thanks!
Yes, if the fiberglass is not damaged, you can use it to add more r value. Great question, and thanks for watching.
Looking for some advice on low cost solutions to keep the crawlspace functional and to prevent or slow down degrading conditions. Live in Michigan high humidity and cold winters. Unfinished crawlspace no insulation the home is not worth more than $110,000 purchased at market value (to give an idea on reasonable fixes. It’s not a forever home. Been quoted $13-$20k for full encapsulation) HAVC ducts run in crawl water lines are in attic. It’s damp and water does collect. Fixing a support beam now $$$$ will run a sump pump for standing water. Is there no way to have any type of minimal insulation added (even to duct work) to help during the cold months without risk of mold growing in it? Or any ideas to make it any more functional without spending more than $5k?
I believe our DIY team can help you regulate that humidity and get insulation for the range you're looking for. Email us at DIY@crawlspaceninja.com
Thanks for all the great advice. I hope you can help me with an issue. The crawl space floor is concrete. There are 2 pony walls. The walls are open 2x4’s, 32” high. One is about 48’ long, the other is about 27’ long. They sit on a concrete curb that varies from 2” up to 6”. How do I deal with installing the dimple and sheet plastic in/around these walls to get an effective encapsulation? I don’t want to close them off as I need to be able to pass thru the walls to access plumbing/electrical in the future.
Thanks, Jon
We would like to email about this to go more in -depth - please fill out this form - crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-help-faq/ and we will email you shortly!
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Any chance you can give me advice on this? I submitted teh form a couple of weeks ago and didn't hear back. Thanks!
I am having an encapsulation done on my crawlspace in Little Rock, AR. They are going to seal the crawlspace vents, but they will install one crawlspace vent fan blowing outward to eliminate soil gases. Is rim joist insulation and sealing the sill plate something I might need to do in addition to the encapsulation? Also, should I ask them to seal off any subfloor penetrations as well?
Glad to hear that they're encapsulating and properly ventilating. We would definitely recommend air sealing and rim joist insulation would be good to have for winter. It will help with the overall comfort in your living space. Check out this video we did that talks about why air sealing is important. th-cam.com/video/otNCxKqez8k/w-d-xo.html
I live in Atlantic Canada very humid I blocked my vents off with r10 and put a commercial dehumidifier down there. Which during the summer was great, but now that it is cold 🥶 my rim joist are terribly wet, as well as the frost wall. Any solutions to dry those rim joists out now that it’s cold an so much condensation
Is the crawl space too cold too turn on the dehumidifier? Does the space have rim joist insulation? If not, could you somehow safely warm the crawl space in order for dehumidifier to turn on the rim joist to dry out then add insulation?
My home in Albuquerque, New Mexico has a vented crawlspace that is completely uninsulated, and the walls of the house are cinder block. The climate is very dry year-round (high desert). I'm planning to leave the crawlspace unencapsulated (as an exterior space) and install poly wrapped fiberglass insulation batts between the floor joists on top of the crawlspace. My question is, for the rim joists, is placing some fiberglass enough, or do I need to install foam boards? I'm thinking maybe there isn't much air flow in the cinder block walls. I'm also planning to leave the bare earth floor of the crawlspace - would prefer for any small water leaks to soak in rather than pond on plastic. Does this sound OK? Will appreciate any advice.
Desert climates are a little out of my comfort zone but the rim joist can allow air to move into the living space no matter the climate if they are not air sealed. I spoke with a man that lives in NV desert and he placed down plastic and sealed it to walls because he was trying to keep desert creatures out. He was not doing it due to moisture. Sorry I don't have a better answer. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate your helpful videos. For my situation maybe someone with experience with a desert climate will be able to add some recommendations. @@CrawlSpaceNinja
Just an update after 6 months. I decided to go with spray polyurethane foam on the ceiling of the crawlspace (between the joists supporting the floor of the house). Although it cost $6000 for 1100 sq. ft. vs $2000 for fiberglass, it seemed to me much more durable and it seals the surfaces including rim joists against air flow much better. I left the sandy floor of the crawl space unsealed. Now in the hot summer I am finding that the foam insulation did improve the performance of our A/C system - before the insulation our relatively new 5-ton rooftop unit couldn't adequately cool the 2900 sq. ft. house, even though it was sized properly. It could only get it down to maybe 81-82 degrees on very hot days. Now, with the added insulation in the crawl space, the A/C can maintain the house at 79 degrees on very hot days, and this feels much better. So I am satisfied having made this decision. We live in an area known to have radon in the soil, so I also bought a radon meter and discovered that during the winter, with no ventilation, the crawl space had about 6 picocuries/L, and inside the house had about 3 picocuries/L. Although the concern/remediation level inside a home is 4 picocuries/L and we were below this level, this was getting uncomfortably close. I added a small exhaust fan in the wooden access door to the crawlspace, keep it running at a modest level constantly, and it reduced the radon concentrations by half or more. Also open up the house when the weather is good. I hope this info is helpful to others.
I live in California and the humidity can get high here. I recently purchase a old house, 1960s build, that did not have any insulation in the walls. This is my first winter in this house. The attic has some insulation, but could be better. I recently got blown in cellulose insulation to the exterior walls in hopes of retaining the heat longer in the house, but it is still drafty, cold and floor are cold as well. I noticed some area of the floor and baseboard has gaps which I filled as well and sealed off small holes and cracks around the house with foam spray. In addition to cold draft and floors during the winter, I have noticed the humidity levels reach around 67% in the home. I am running out of option, but I came across you video. The crawl space is vent and unconditioned. Would sealing the rim joist make a difference in the drafts we are feeling, help with the cold floors and lower the humidity? And when doing the sealing, do I first apply foam spay seal around the rim joist, then put the foam board and then seal again with foam spray? Thanks in advance for your help and great informative videos!!
Hey! To go into this please submit a Ask a Ninja form - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
Our 1960s Tennessee home has rim joist resting directly on concrete block peers. No sill plate.
What is your recommendation for (a) air sealing and insulating with no sill plate and also (b) covering or filling the void at the top of the concrete block (Pests like to live in them. Found a dozen snake skins on 1st inspection of the space, which is maybe better than mice).
To go in-depth it is best for a consultation or a Ask a Ninja form. Here are the links and we are excited to hear from you! - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
My crawlspace is encapsulated. For the termite gap, is sealing the exposed brick and mortar with something like "clear" Dylok or Thompson's WaterSeal a good idea? This goes for both inside the crawlspace and or/Outside below the rim joist (I have heard bricks have to breath).
My concern with any product designed to damp proof is can it eventually grow mold. If the products you are wanting to use will not grow mold and they work, I think it is ok. Most likely top/bottom of brick can breathe plus whatever is behind plastic. Thanks for watching, hope that helps. Also, check with your pest company to ensure they don't have rules that could violate there warranty.
Do we first apply sealant to the rim joist where it meets the wall, then place the foam board and seal it as well?
Foam Board the use spray foam to seal the seams between the boards!
Amazing channel Sir, respect! Subscribed!
Thank you so much.
How about log cabin construction? How’s that work ?
Hey! This would need a In-depth response feel free to submit a Ask a Ninja form - crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-help-faq/
I've been waiting for this video!
Hope you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for another informative video
So nice of you to say. Thanks for watching.
I can’t imagine any place in Oregon being that dry. 😮
I have not been there but I am sure even drier climates will have humidity spikes to deal with at certain times of the year.
@@CrawlSpaceNinja I would be interested in sharing my crawlspace concerns on video with you including your thoughts on outside on the sill plate (concrete to sheathing).
@@CrawlSpaceNinjaYou are correct. Even here, in Canada, we have periods where a crawl space gets a RH of 89% in summer. In winter, RH gets low.
We'd love that! Please fill out our Ask A Ninja form and we can work on scheduling something. crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Depends on the layout of the land and the construction, but the sandier nature of the soil there and low humidity during the summers often permits good drainage to be sufficient for drying crawlspaces.
However, dehumidifers are always a good idea during the rainy season, which sometimes feels like it lasts all year long.
😊
First one!!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Lol. Congrats and thanks for watching.