Interesting and informative! I’ve been building and reshafting clubs for myself for about 20 years. Your methods and procedures are very similar to mine. One thing I do is to tape the club at the hosel and ferrule so I don’t get any movement when the epoxy is drying. I’ve also watch a few of the Tour Van videos and picked up a few good tips.
Hi Paul. Thanks for watching. If you let the epoxy get a bit thicker before gluing then you shouldn't have to worry about the tape, but I understand why you would do that for your own piece of mind. Ryan
Hey Ryan.. it’s much appreciated and obvious in your building process that you put time and effort in building clubs. Your videos have brought myself a level of comfort when building my own clubs. Some feedback is that you don’t necessarily have to voice your focus on quality frequently.. we can all see it in your craftsmanship :). Great video thanks for sharing!
Since those grips have been installed and some have tip weights and some don’t are you just allowing for the length differences that is being caused by the tip weights?
Hi Ryan. Where do you purchase the plastic weight tips? Also, where do the OEM get the tip plugs for preventing the glue going up the shaft? Lastly, do you have a vendor for obtaining the the power drill hex stainless steel brush for cleaning out the hosel? I would get them from Golfworks but I find their shipping prices are high. Thank you Ryan.
Using wooden mixing sticks will introduce air into the epoxy. I make fishing rods and never use anything porous like wood. Use something non-porous like a metal spatula which you can get on Ebay or fishing rod component web sites. Also I saw when I was making my first clubs that rolling the tip in the epoxy then rolling it in the beads was the proper application method? Now you know far more than I do so is there any reason you don't do it that way? Great video!
You also said you don't like when people put their shafts in a vertical position when epoxying because the epoxy will run? Then you took the iron shaft and put it against the wall vertically?
Hi Ryan, loved the video. Showed me some tips to make the work more organized, going to try and put a set together soon. When you measured for swingweight, I didn’t see the ferrule on the club. Did you do it before and just forgot during the video? Also, I have a set of recoil iron shafts in .355 taper and the ferrules are .370, but they seem to be extremely tight when I tested putting them on the shaft. Is that normal? Thanks
Ryan Here - I didnt check SW with the ferrule because its a very small factor - the goal was consistency and not a VERY specific weight. Since it was around D2 pre assembly final came out to D2.5 which was in the area I was shooting for. As for the ferrules if they are snug, which is very common heres a video to help with that th-cam.com/video/gsgQyn2S4W0/w-d-xo.html
Doubt you will see this as it’s an old video. What is the paper towel you use. I’m in Europe and the paper towel here just sticks to the epoxy. Also would you say the epoxy and ferrule are about .5 of a SW. I enjoyed the video.
Nice video but I am wondering how that leftover epoxy set up? Part B would have been 3.5 +.35=3.85gm which when added to the 5.5gm of part A makes a total of 9.35gm rather than just under 9gm...I think u missed .5gm during ur addition. The best advice for people is to do the calculations with a calculator and write them down...also, tare the scale before adding the second part so you eliminate that one "simple" unnecessary math step. As you have said, it is critical to get the ratios correct so just keep it simple and reduce the chances of error. ;)
Hi Ryan. Great video - very thorough! Can you review the epoxy ratio again? Is part A 10 and part B 7? or vice versa? And what are the contents of part A and of part B? I've always wanted to know. As for drying the clubs would you lay them horizontally? Thanks again! :D
During the drying cycle, clubs should be placed vertically to dry. Horizontal drying, laying the club flat before the epoxy starts setting, the epoxy can solidify and end up on just one side of the shaft.
Ryan Here, Yes, depending on the head weights, tip weights are used to get the swing weights within a tolerance / have the head weights progress properly. Thanks for watching
Great stuff. Really enjoyed watching with you guys. Quality work and very helpful info.
Interesting and informative! I’ve been building and reshafting clubs for myself for about 20 years. Your methods and procedures are very similar to mine. One thing I do is to tape the club at the hosel and ferrule so I don’t get any movement when the epoxy is drying. I’ve also watch a few of the Tour Van videos and picked up a few good tips.
Hi Paul.
Thanks for watching. If you let the epoxy get a bit thicker before gluing then you shouldn't have to worry about the tape, but I understand why you would do that for your own piece of mind.
Ryan
Hey Ryan.. it’s much appreciated and obvious in your building process that you put time and effort in building clubs. Your videos have brought myself a level of comfort when building my own clubs. Some feedback is that you don’t necessarily have to voice your focus on quality frequently.. we can all see it in your craftsmanship :). Great video thanks for sharing!
Great video, very good. What type of epoxy do you use? Thanks
Since those grips have been installed and some have tip weights and some don’t are you just allowing for the length differences that is being caused by the tip weights?
Hi Ryan. Where do you purchase the plastic weight tips? Also, where do the OEM get the tip plugs for preventing the glue going up the shaft? Lastly, do you have a vendor for obtaining the the power drill hex stainless steel brush for cleaning out the hosel? I would get them from Golfworks but I find their shipping prices are high. Thank you Ryan.
Using wooden mixing sticks will introduce air into the epoxy. I make fishing rods and never use anything porous like wood. Use something non-porous like a metal spatula which you can get on Ebay or fishing rod component web sites. Also I saw when I was making my first clubs that rolling the tip in the epoxy then rolling it in the beads was the proper application method? Now you know far more than I do so is there any reason you don't do it that way? Great video!
You also said you don't like when people put their shafts in a vertical position when epoxying because the epoxy will run? Then you took the iron shaft and put it against the wall vertically?
Ryan Here - When I said vertically I meant head up and grip down is incorrect, letting it dry with the head down is the correct method
Hi Ryan, loved the video. Showed me some tips to make the work more organized, going to try and put a set together soon. When you measured for swingweight, I didn’t see the ferrule on the club. Did you do it before and just forgot during the video? Also, I have a set of recoil iron shafts in .355 taper and the ferrules are .370, but they seem to be extremely tight when I tested putting them on the shaft. Is that normal? Thanks
Ryan Here - I didnt check SW with the ferrule because its a very small factor - the goal was consistency and not a VERY specific weight. Since it was around D2 pre assembly final came out to D2.5 which was in the area I was shooting for. As for the ferrules if they are snug, which is very common heres a video to help with that th-cam.com/video/gsgQyn2S4W0/w-d-xo.html
Doubt you will see this as it’s an old video. What is the paper towel you use. I’m in Europe and the paper towel here just sticks to the epoxy. Also would you say the epoxy and ferrule are about .5 of a SW. I enjoyed the video.
Nice video but I am wondering how that leftover epoxy set up? Part B would have been 3.5 +.35=3.85gm which when added to the 5.5gm of part A makes a total of 9.35gm rather than just under 9gm...I think u missed .5gm during ur addition. The best advice for people is to do the calculations with a calculator and write them down...also, tare the scale before adding the second part so you eliminate that one "simple" unnecessary math step. As you have said, it is critical to get the ratios correct so just keep it simple and reduce the chances of error. ;)
Where do you buy just golf heads from?
Hi Ryan. Great video - very thorough! Can you review the epoxy ratio again? Is part A 10 and part B 7? or vice versa? And what are the contents of part A and of part B? I've always wanted to know. As for drying the clubs would you lay them horizontally? Thanks again! :D
During the drying cycle, clubs should be placed vertically to dry. Horizontal drying, laying the club flat before the epoxy starts setting, the epoxy can solidify and end up on just one side of the shaft.
Ryan, I have a 1x30 sanding machine from harbor freight can you use that to turn down ferrules?
Can you post a link for the ferrules that you use?
Hello, what about MOI making, how do you match the desired MOI?
Is there any specific situation where you should use brass tip weights instead of lead?
its up to the builder - brass are more expensive and higher quality but either one works.
Why did you put tip weights to some clubs and not to the other? To achive the same swing weight?
Ryan Here,
Yes, depending on the head weights, tip weights are used to get the swing weights within a tolerance / have the head weights progress properly. Thanks for watching
Ryan, how to get in touch with you
Ryan Here - you can always reach out on my social media channels - just google my name and golf
Cheers
Better loose that pizza hat
sadly this is a waste of time to watch. I was building my own before this guy was born.
Then get lost, you ungrateful clubbuilding prodigy. The audacity...
Makes sense,you know everything but are watching instructional videos still.. what a tool