Also another trucker trick, if the fuel cost more than the loads pay just give up and go to miami for the winter. The truck will start easier in the spring.
This would have been really helpful a few weeks ago in central Alberta when it was -50 -60. Oh she started alright, but she was mad. 90% of our trucks were just left running overnight in the yard. If all else fails you gotta do what you gotta do.
Something that i do, my company's terminal is located in the warmer southeast but we get regular loads to the north west and norh east. They ask us to top off our fuel at the terminal but i know that fuel sold in the southeast may not have anti gel additives. But fuel sold in the northern states will typically have it already added to prevent it freezing in their holding tanks. So I'll only top off one tank at the yard, enough to get me up north, then ill fill up with the treated stuff. . Things may have changed over the years but it's a habit ive had for decades so imma just keep on doing it. 😁
If you have to idle the engine you must step the idle up above 1000 rpm up here in ak by the arctic circle it has to be done if plugins or fuel burning coolant heaters are not available. Ether injection systems do work well and wont damage the engines as long as you dont have an intake heater system like glow plugs or heat grid. Its also old technoligy but its amazing how well a flame heater works to get a diesel engine started. Thick oil is your enemy change to a lighter oil like 5w40 synthetic if your going to be running below 0 it meets the specs for most cat engines from -25f to 70 f
I've always pushed the clutch in on manual trans, on my trucks and cars, for cold starts it helps a lot. All these are good tips BTW. My Ford IDI 7.3 likes a short squirt of ether in the winter. Starts everytime 😂😂
I’m a little confused about the charcoal like substance on the end of the plug getting into the oil. Is this a tougher Canadian block heater?The block heater I had was a sealed element that went into the coolant and would keep the coolant warm.
Torpedo heater and a tarp. Or a real old oldtimer trick, metal coffe can with some charcoal in it light it set under pan cover engine to ground with tarp shut hood go inside. Probably not the safest but ive done it and it does work. But a torpedo heater works best. Obviously this is a plugged in truck that refuses to start
Honda 3000 IS generator installed professionally and solidly on the catwalk, operates easily my 10k BTU A/C in the summer. In the winter I have a 1500/750 W heater. Overnight I keep the heater on 1500 W all night. In the cold mornings I turn the heater to 700w just to keep it warm inside cab, I turn ON my block heater on my 12.7 Detroit Series 60 TWO hours before starting the engine. That will use another 1000 W . Easily handled by the Honda. It might smoke for 15 minutes, but starts very easily. Forget $15K APUs . Ripoff
I've got a timer on the circuit for the receptacles on the side of my garage to plug the trucks into. I just set it to come on a couple hours before we are going to start. Even if you don't have electric you can get propane fired coolant heaters. I got to tell you I cringe when I see these TH-camrs doing cold start videos it's so hard on the truck. The old timers would have totally flipped out at me back in the 70's if I didn't make sure all the trucks were plugged in. If I started something cold with spray and had it popping spitting and banging I'm sure blood would have squirted from their eyeballs
i retired, did million miles car hauling/ $5.25 gallon below i-40. l had to go, 84 cents when l started late,,,,bushees,biden ruined trucking,, im building house car out of pete & 25 box with a maxon. Thanks for your channel.
Dave newer engines are a lot different than older ones. Here is some advice for people with newer trucks. 1. Don't use either unless absolutely necessary and don't use it unless you know where the grid heater is on the air intake. This heater turns on when you turn the key on and warms the air as it's sucked in through the intake. We use these instead of glow plugs. If ether gets on it you WILL have a fire or it could explode. Locate it first spray downstream from it. Sometimes it's in the filter housing, sometimes it's right where the air gets sucked in, sometimes it's past the turbo. Be certain before you use ether. 2. If your using 15W40 and it's below 0 degrees or if your using 10W30 and it's below -20 degrees you must use your pre heater otherwise you could damage the engine, at the very least you will accelerate wear. I recommend owner operators purchase an idle control computer. These things start the truck when the engine gets below a certain temperature to warm up the block and prevent cold starts. Bunk heaters that circulate the engine coolant through them also work good. Hot Start sells a siphon pump that warms coolant and circulates it through the engine. In my opinion these are far better than an oil pan heater because they warm the whole block not just the oil. You can start the truck and have instant heat. Metal gets brittle when cold, this prevents damage far better than an oil pan heater. 3. Fuel treatment and anti gel, don't use them unless you have fuel that's not winterized. Today's emissions equipment is extremely sensitive adding stuff to the fuel when you don't need it can damage the emissions systems. Fuel tank heaters work better. The Paccar MX series comes standard with an arctic fox in block heat and an optional arctic fox fuel heater. This warms the engine coolant and circulates it through an element in the fuel tank to keep the fuel from gelling. Anyone who parks where they can't plug in I recommend getting a coolant heater such as an espar hydronic. You can use it to pre heat your truck, turn it on about an hour before you start the truck. If your worried about draining the batteries keep a set of jumper cables in your car. If the batteries get low, hook cables from your car to the jump post on the truck or to the positive and negative on one of the batteries and idle the car to charge the batteries. IMPORTANT: disconnect the car before starting the truck. I know I've done this before where I've parked a truck somewhere before going home for home time, come back to frozen batteries and cold block. I hooked the jumper cables to the battery because I didn't have ac power for a trickle charger to thaw the batteries. I let the car idle and ran the coolant based bunk heater. After an hour, the block was warm enough to start and the batteries were charged. I disconnected my car and started the truck.
On the last part I disagree strongly … it’s much better not to idle any motor after cold start rather start driving immediately and shifting gears at low rpm until operational temp is reached ..this way you warm the drive train system at the same time with the engine and reducing wear and tear on both considerably and also reducing unnecessary pollution( in Europe if you idle to warm up an engine.. you can be fined up to €10K ) It time that this American myth be tossed out that idling an engine is somehow good for the engine… it’s not it’s actually reduces engine life!!!
That may be, but having run, and currently run, older diesels (present one is a 1998 Detroit 430/1650 DDECIII), you start down the road after a sub-35°F or 40°F cold start you're gonna have a real unhappy rig that first 10 miles. Barf a bunch of black smoke/unburned fuel out the stack, shake and pre-detonate, belts running cold, transmission stiff and cold air compressor, etc. Give her 900-1000 rpm for at least 5 minutes and 10 is better, she runs out like a champ, just take it a little easy that first 5 miles. Low idle is another matter .. learned early on in my career that sitting at low idle isn't any good for anything. Shut down or go to 900 rpm. Newer engines I know little about, could be a completely different set of rules.
Also another trucker trick, if the fuel cost more than the loads pay just give up and go to miami for the winter. The truck will start easier in the spring.
This would have been really helpful a few weeks ago in central Alberta when it was -50 -60. Oh she started alright, but she was mad. 90% of our trucks were just left running overnight in the yard. If all else fails you gotta do what you gotta do.
Yes! yes and yes! All the the above!
Something that i do, my company's terminal is located in the warmer southeast but we get regular loads to the north west and norh east. They ask us to top off our fuel at the terminal but i know that fuel sold in the southeast may not have anti gel additives. But fuel sold in the northern states will typically have it already added to prevent it freezing in their holding tanks.
So I'll only top off one tank at the yard, enough to get me up north, then ill fill up with the treated stuff. . Things may have changed over the years but it's a habit ive had for decades so imma just keep on doing it.
😁
Yeah I don’t play around with cold starting a truck, I almost always keep it in optimized idle anytime under 40f 👍
A battery tender is nice if you are already running power to the truck.
I’ve had to use the ether trick quite a few times over the years in NH! Gets a tad chilly here too! lol
All great advice!👊🏻
EXCELLENT ADVICE!!! A LITTLE OLD SCHOOL TOO! I LOVE IF
Pushing in clutch is a great idea I didn't know about..... thanks
If you have to idle the engine you must step the idle up above 1000 rpm up here in ak by the arctic circle it has to be done if plugins or fuel burning coolant heaters are not available. Ether injection systems do work well and wont damage the engines as long as you dont have an intake heater system like glow plugs or heat grid. Its also old technoligy but its amazing how well a flame heater works to get a diesel engine started. Thick oil is your enemy change to a lighter oil like 5w40 synthetic if your going to be running below 0 it meets the specs for most cat engines from -25f to 70 f
On the ether we used to install a kit.
When it would fire you turn the key off & on quickly and it put a regulated squirter in the manifold.
I've always pushed the clutch in on manual trans, on my trucks and cars, for cold starts it helps a lot. All these are good tips BTW.
My Ford IDI 7.3 likes a short squirt of ether in the winter. Starts everytime 😂😂
I used to put a timer on mine 2.5 hrs before I wakeup
This is very useful to this steering wheel holder
So even when I’m neutral it helps to push the clutch in?
Thank for information 😊
That’s why I love my opti idle no apu no running the engine all day
What about adding alcohol in the washer flued
I’m a little confused about the charcoal like substance on the end of the plug getting into the oil. Is this a tougher Canadian block heater?The block heater I had was a sealed element that went into the coolant and would keep the coolant warm.
Ahh I can hear those Blue Jays in the background at around 0:40 lol Such loud obnoxious birds
I always put 3 gallons of gasoline in my tanks it helps big time
Has anyone used AGM batteries, oddessy etc, are they good for extreme cold weather?
Does this 379 still run down the road today?
Hey Dave. How does your truck get so dirty just sitting there? Are you driving again?
I'm guessing it's probably all the frost, from the cold temperatures.
Torpedo heater and a tarp. Or a real old oldtimer trick, metal coffe can with some charcoal in it light it set under pan cover engine to ground with tarp shut hood go inside. Probably not the safest but ive done it and it does work. But a torpedo heater works best.
Obviously this is a plugged in truck that refuses to start
Honda 3000 IS generator installed professionally and solidly on the catwalk, operates easily my 10k BTU A/C in the summer. In the winter I have a 1500/750 W heater. Overnight I keep the heater on 1500 W all night. In the cold mornings I turn the heater to 700w just to keep it warm inside cab, I turn ON my block heater on my 12.7 Detroit Series 60 TWO hours before starting the engine. That will use another 1000 W . Easily handled by the Honda. It might smoke for 15 minutes, but starts very easily.
Forget $15K APUs . Ripoff
I've got a timer on the circuit for the receptacles on the side of my garage to plug the trucks into. I just set it to come on a couple hours before we are going to start. Even if you don't have electric you can get propane fired coolant heaters. I got to tell you I cringe when I see these TH-camrs doing cold start videos it's so hard on the truck. The old timers would have totally flipped out at me back in the 70's if I didn't make sure all the trucks were plugged in. If I started something cold with spray and had it popping spitting and banging I'm sure blood would have squirted from their eyeballs
👍👍👍
i retired, did million miles car hauling/ $5.25 gallon below i-40. l had to go, 84 cents when l started late,,,,bushees,biden ruined trucking,, im building house car out of pete & 25 box with a maxon. Thanks for your channel.
Dave newer engines are a lot different than older ones. Here is some advice for people with newer trucks.
1. Don't use either unless absolutely necessary and don't use it unless you know where the grid heater is on the air intake. This heater turns on when you turn the key on and warms the air as it's sucked in through the intake. We use these instead of glow plugs. If ether gets on it you WILL have a fire or it could explode. Locate it first spray downstream from it. Sometimes it's in the filter housing, sometimes it's right where the air gets sucked in, sometimes it's past the turbo. Be certain before you use ether.
2. If your using 15W40 and it's below 0 degrees or if your using 10W30 and it's below -20 degrees you must use your pre heater otherwise you could damage the engine, at the very least you will accelerate wear. I recommend owner operators purchase an idle control computer. These things start the truck when the engine gets below a certain temperature to warm up the block and prevent cold starts. Bunk heaters that circulate the engine coolant through them also work good. Hot Start sells a siphon pump that warms coolant and circulates it through the engine. In my opinion these are far better than an oil pan heater because they warm the whole block not just the oil. You can start the truck and have instant heat. Metal gets brittle when cold, this prevents damage far better than an oil pan heater.
3. Fuel treatment and anti gel, don't use them unless you have fuel that's not winterized. Today's emissions equipment is extremely sensitive adding stuff to the fuel when you don't need it can damage the emissions systems. Fuel tank heaters work better.
The Paccar MX series comes standard with an arctic fox in block heat and an optional arctic fox fuel heater. This warms the engine coolant and circulates it through an element in the fuel tank to keep the fuel from gelling.
Anyone who parks where they can't plug in I recommend getting a coolant heater such as an espar hydronic. You can use it to pre heat your truck, turn it on about an hour before you start the truck. If your worried about draining the batteries keep a set of jumper cables in your car. If the batteries get low, hook cables from your car to the jump post on the truck or to the positive and negative on one of the batteries and idle the car to charge the batteries. IMPORTANT: disconnect the car before starting the truck.
I know I've done this before where I've parked a truck somewhere before going home for home time, come back to frozen batteries and cold block. I hooked the jumper cables to the battery because I didn't have ac power for a trickle charger to thaw the batteries. I let the car idle and ran the coolant based bunk heater. After an hour, the block was warm enough to start and the batteries were charged. I disconnected my car and started the truck.
It always bugged me to see my fellow drivers start there trucks up and then just hold the throttle down until it warmed up.
Must be pretty cold, even his mustache looks froze
😮 must be something wrong with your truck. Trucks won't crank over if the clutch is not pushed in.
Not true, mine is a 2021 and it cranks without pushing clutch in
I think he's talking about older trucks that don't have that clutch safety mechanism.
On the last part I
disagree strongly … it’s much better not to idle any motor after cold start rather start driving immediately and shifting gears at low rpm until operational temp is reached ..this way you warm the drive train system at the same time with the engine and reducing wear and tear on both considerably and also reducing unnecessary pollution( in Europe if you idle to warm up an engine.. you can be fined up to €10K )
It time that this American myth be tossed out that idling an engine is somehow good for the engine… it’s not it’s actually reduces engine life!!!
That may be, but having run, and currently run, older diesels (present one is a 1998 Detroit 430/1650 DDECIII), you start down the road after a sub-35°F or 40°F cold start you're gonna have a real unhappy rig that first 10 miles. Barf a bunch of black smoke/unburned fuel out the stack, shake and pre-detonate, belts running cold, transmission stiff and cold air compressor, etc. Give her 900-1000 rpm for at least 5 minutes and 10 is better, she runs out like a champ, just take it a little easy that first 5 miles.
Low idle is another matter .. learned early on in my career that sitting at low idle isn't any good for anything. Shut down or go to 900 rpm. Newer engines I know little about, could be a completely different set of rules.
Apu with arctic package is best for keeping coolant warm, batteries topped up when parked for extended periods of y