Charles, they're Supra X Pro D6 connectors by RC Pro Plus. easy to solder, reusable, high amp rating, very secure yet easy to unplug. Best connectors on the planet. good luck finding them in stock in the US though
After RPM standardization, and after your heli spools down, according to the printed instructions, before you power down the heli, it says the lower your throttle stick on yer Tx to the bottom position in order to flash the standardized rpm to the ESC's memory. Not sure if engaging throttle hold takes care of that step, but it's been a habit of mine either way. As far as Spartan FBL's and HW V4 ESC's and their rpm output lead, I dealt with trying to get a 130A V4 to work with a vx1 forever and after reading and reading forums I just went ahead and went and soldered a external sensor to use with the FBL unit. Hopefully they sort something out soon, all V3 ESC's work just fine.....not v4's for some reason. Nice video Dave!
HKMaster556 as long as the esc sees zero throttle it will be ok. Doesn't matter how it sees it as long as it does. HW is currently working on the solution for the V4 escs throttle signal issue
Yeah, I figured as much it had to just be looking for a zero throttle signal in any fashion. Yeah, I was talking with someone the other day about not only the V4 rpm out issue thing, but a ton of other exciting things being worked on as well! Needless to say. I am excited. -J
quick question for you so you say not to go beyond 87 flat on high idle up in gov mode so what if the head speed is not high enough and you can not change the pinion.what would happen if you used a flat 100 esc failure or blow up esc .
nitrokyosho curious why you wouldn't be able to change the pinion? What would happen if you did run it at 100 would definitely be excessive heat and a very poorly performing governor.
DarkSyd3D ok thanks I'm use to castle gov these are new to me .align trex 700 x only offers 1 pinion but maybe at 87 % in at 2100 rpm need to use a tac
nitrokyosho castle govs are a little more liberal with their throttle which is why many smack pilots prefer a tighter running gov. I'm surprised Align only offers one pinion option for the 700x. I wonder if the other Align 700 opinions would work. 2100 is a great headspeed but will shorten battery life. I'm noticing more and more pilots running lower headspeeds and increasing pitch for longer run times. Something to think about.
Most likely not. Since there have been several firmware updated to the V4 esc and 2 or three to the LCD box you would need to update the box first, then the esc
Hi Dave,So is it correct once set up that in Normal mode with a linear throttle curve 0 to 100 that nothing happens when the throttle stick of between 0 and 40% then when you raise the stick to 40% the motor will spool up to 40% ?
Thanks for the video. Have a question. I am new to rc heli and have trex 500. Does every ESC have governor mode if it has general beep 6 step setup? How can I find out if it has gov mode in the first place? Do I need to buy hobbyking program card for this?
Darksyde very good video awesome. I got one question i got the same equpment as you but how do i start a softstart where my blade spools up at the very beginning of my stick at lets say 5% stick i stead my blades start spinning at almost 50% I dont like that it scares me on my alzrc 380 devil which is essentially a goblin clone. Thanks Darksyde.
Paul Santora there's no way to do that when you're in any of the internal governing modes. The throttle doesn't respond till it's over 40%. But it should still spool up slowly with soft start as that is also controlled by the gov :)
why is that it allows more control over my throttle why would they allow that happening at 40% blahhhh thats horrible there is no soft start only soft stop. what is the readings when tje governor 1-9. and theres governor par 1 between 10 on my platinumm does 1 mean min start to max speed. Thanks so much Darksyde you are Life saver seriously.
the same exact one you got Darksyde. there gov 1-9 and theres. gover par. 1-9 as well well what do the numbers mean in governor mode mean anywAy. this helielf setting.
When you select a setting like Helicopter store and press ok how do you know it's saved. The asterisk is only on the default values and stays that way so there's no indication that you have picked a setting.
Basil Yousif correct. The asterisk only shows what is the default value Incase you want to go back to it. You can verify the saved values but powering down the system and powering back up again. The saved values will always show first as you scroll through each parameter
Billy Sventzouris Most likely you have either a bad or loose or cold solder joint. Every time I've seen that happen that has been the cause. I would go over every solder joint that you have and make sure everything is nice and shiny. May want toeven consider reflowing the solder joints
Hi DarkSyd3D. I see that you are using a Spartan Vx1e. I'm on my second Vx1n build (Gaui X3) and I'm using a HW 60a V4. In *Live Status*, the Spartan does not acknowlege any signal from the built-in single wire RPM sensor when I run up the motor (bench testing, no blades). On my first build (Align 450) I used a Castle Talon-35 and soldered a separate HW RPM sensor to the motor wires. The Vortex worked with that, no problem. Does your Vortex work with the ESC's built-in single wire RPM sensor?
Funny you bring this up at this time :) just yesterday I started to test the external gov with the HW esc. so far it does recognize the signal with the 50a v3 but I'm stuck until Monday to set the rest up. I use Jeti Hero and didn't have the needed add on in the TX to use the gov function so I had to purchase it. my next tests after the 50 will be the 60a, then 120lv, 130, and finally the 160hv all with the Vortex fbl. I wanted to start with the 50 v3 because I know it works and wanted to get a base line of what to expect. testing will take a few weeks but I should have results for the 60 by next week hopefully. I would say for now use what works until there is a conclusion of what the issue is of the signal wire not working and we come up with a fix. Hope this helps. cheers
DarkSyd3D Hi & thankyou for replying. I did solder an external HW RPM sensor and it seems to work fine with the Spartan. Bigger problem though... I don't thing the BEC is putting out constant power. Both Satellites flash and there are interruptions in the servo operation. Just working the collective up & down, there are "freezes". I did try a different ESC (HW V3 50 amp) and both Sats are solid ON, and servo operation is constant. I did send a message to Hobbywing North America. I purchased this back in Feb of this year. Do you think they will do an exchange?
They should take care of you....did you end up sending it in on a rma??? Also how sure were you of all your solder joints??? Kinda sounds like a cold solder causing you power issues. If not I got noooo idea. Hehe. Hope you got her fixed.
They did replace it... no fuss. I don't know about the solder joints. I had a LHS do it and they looked good. With the new one, I bought a soldering station and did it myself. Had a very hard time & it took me way too long. So I hope the joints are ok now. They seem to be working. Thankyou.
Hello Boss!1 Another quick question hereif you could please guide me. i got the HW 100 V3 it says it comes with rpm sensor. how do i set that up? i got a dx9 and ikon . thanks alot.
Luis Lopez it doesn't come with an rpm sensor. It has an rpm out wire which is the single yellow cable. I believe you need the adapter the Ikon has to plug it into the ikons gov port
Luis Lopez yes, depends if you want to use the Ikon gov or the internal HW gov. If using the Ikon gov you have to set the HW gov off with either heli gov off mode or fixed wing mode. You also have to set the Ikon gov up. Refer to the forum threads for those instructions
+DarkSyd3D So If I understand it correctly, the only purpose for that RPM sensor wire on the HW is to use an FBL unit's gov... correct? And for that, it has to be in Airplane mode so there's basically no delay between what the Spartan gov asks for, and what the HW will deliver? The ESC will be totally slaved to the Spartan Vortex. In other words, any delayed power (such as Soft Start) would have to be programmed into the FBL unit (Spartan or Vbar or Other). And since I have the v4 60amp, and I want to use the Spartan's gov... I hope I'm not going to sacrifice the Active Freewheeling feature? The manual does such a poor job of explaining these things. And using the Programming box, I couldn't find where to even enter the pinion/maingear ratio, pole count, pwm, etc... _even if I wanted_ to use the HW gov. Thanks for posting.
+Stringfellow Hawke you are correct about the esc being a slave for the FBL unit. If you want to have a soft start and auto bailout through the esc you would set it in Heli Linear (cant remember what its called in V4). Those are the only two gov features that can be programmed. If youre using Fixed Wing mode youll have to set everything in the spartan i.e. pole count, soft start, ect. As far as the AFW I havent actually checked to see if it sill functions on an external gov. Im pretty sure you will still have that function but again, dont quote me lol. Pole count and gear ration is not programmable because of how the RPM is standardized within the HW. Its not set based on the numbers you input. Its based on the load the esc senses during the store process. As far as timing and PWM, try updating the program box to v3.2.22 and the esc to v4.0.0.1 My 160s didnt have those settings at one point and not they do. Not sure if it will be the same with the LV series. Hope this helps!!
Hi DarkSyd3D, where did you get your TX skin cover? I was looking several sites on net but I couldn't find any better than yours. where can I get one for my DX9?
hey dude. thanks! I actually Hydrodipped the transmitter. has to take everything out of the inside but it wasn't bad. look up hydrodipping on TH-cam and you can see how it's done
Hi again DarkSyd3D, I've ordered a hydrodipping kit and it will probably arrive by tomorrow. I decided to do myself :) I just have couple of questions if you don't mind I would like to ask you... 1. is it really hard to remove DX9 and put it back together, any tips or suggestions? 2. is it necessary to sand all the radio? 3. my theme is skulls, what base coat color should apply, black or white? 4. any further advise would be appreciated :) thanx!!!
+necip ali the best tip for taking the TX apart I'd take pics of the inside and the order of the wires. mark the position of the switches and most importantly be very careful. small wires break easy. I used a hobby grade media blaster I bought from harbor freight to dull the finish on the 9 so the base coau would adhere better. just tape off anything you don't want sanded like the screen and switch plates. depending on your exact design and color would determine the choice of base color. On mine, the only foreground color is black so a black base coat would mask the image. white will make any color stand out well but is also prone to look dirty faster. The kit I purchased came with everything except the tub for dipping. the base coat is fast drying and covers well. and I used a matte clear coat with 4 coats of it. If you've never done it before, find something with curves and crevices to practice on. You'll hate yourself if you stretch the image or it comes out looking bad.
gov store only requires one calibration for a fully charged pack. Afterword you when you use other packs you won't have to calibrate again. If you put in a poorly performing battery you may get shorter flight time because the Gov wants to maintain the headspeed based on the stored calibration. Gov ELF requires a calibration every time you go to fly after unplugging a pack. This option will make the gov work based on the output of the pack currently in use.
DarkSyd3D I'll try responding to this. If you don't get this time I will go to HF. I have set up my esc as per your vid. And the governor works well in idle 1 and 2. Is it correct that in normal mode set with a linear 0 to 100 pitch curve that the motor doesn't spool until the stick is raised to 40% position and then the motor quickly spools up to 40 % throttle?
Rod Larkin hey ron, it's normal for the motor not to engage till the esc sees 40% throttle or more as this is one of the functions of the gov. Depending on what you mean by "quickly" spooling up in linear mode it's possible it's doing that if you have the auto bailout set. Otherwise it should spool up like it would in IU 1 or 2
can someone help me. am trying to get the throttle to start after 5 to 7% throttle not 40%. and i can't remember how to do it. my 100A starts after 5 to 7%. i would appreciate your help very much. again will not run Governor on this bird. i am not getting any support from hobbywing.
DarkSyd3D hi i need a quicker pitch punch do i need more headspeed i have a 18t pinion now but it punches up slow can i go for a 20t pinion will that work?
heli baz I assume by the size of the motor you're flying a 500? Increasing the pinion size will increase the headspeed but will also take some torque away. Depending on how much pitch you have you may need to increase it or even decrease the expo for pitch.
lys avin actually it should be closer to 40% throttle before the motor starts to spool up. If it doesn't spool up till 50% you may need to recalibrate the throttle end points. The 40% is normal for any gov mode as that's how you know it is programmed correctly.
Why would you run the gov in the ESc, instead of the FBL unit? I run a brain, and I thought they were supposed to have better Govs than an ESC, since they are proactive, rather than reactive.
tee HW gov is extremely tight and has zero loss of HS in any maneuver I can put on them. it is reactive and TECHNICALLY a fbl responds first but for me it's not a noticeable difference. There's always power when needed
Ok, cool. I'm just more comfortable setting up the Gov in the Brain. When I callibrate my 100A Platinum v3 for the first time, should I have it in a normal mode with my throttle curve 0,25,50,75,100? The reason I sak is because I am supposed to run my curves in the brain 40, 60, and 100 all the way across. thanks.
+steve sparrow the HW gov is quite easy to set up if you have the LCD program box. Initially you'll need to set the endpoints like normal in the brain and keep a 0-100 linear curve to calibrate the HW throttle. This is done by moving the throttle stick to full, arming the esc and wait for the first couple tones. Then after go to zero throttle and you should hear the rest of the tones. Make sure your throttle hold is off during this :)
Yes, I have the Progamming box. I just was not sure if I should have my TX set up for normal mode to be 0 through 100, linear. I think for my throttle it was up at 137 both low and high, because I had a castle talon. I guess I go back and set those to 100 in the TX? I don't think it really has the end points for the throttle in the brain, just the pitch, and then you set head speeds.
+steve sparrow unless something changed in the brain software the throttle endpoints had to be set in the fbl using the travel adjust on the TX. you should get a 0 at low and a 100 in high in the throttle setup screen of the brain software. The throttle servo numbers don't matter to the HW as long as the brain sees 0-100 the throttle curve is linear. The HW will see that as 0-100 as well
oh I see. Unfortunately the V4 escs aren't stick programmable. This is because there are more parameters to set the the V3 and using a program box or Wifi express module eliminates all the confusion. also, there is no way to update firmware without one of the above mentioned items
Can you tell me how to get into program mode using the Tx I have the 100 amp platinum v3 I turn on the tx put throttle to full ( throttle hold on )then plug in battery and it just arms normally.
oh my mistake. I thought this was my 160 video lol. you need to have TH off for programming mode to activate. So keep the throttle at 100 then arm with TH off. make sure to calibrate the throttle first so it sees the 100
I thought one critical piece of information should FIRST be to confirm that the throttle curves are linear. It they are something else, wouldn't that cause a problem?
I don't have a $300.00 radio. I use a $49.00 radio. but just spent $275.00 for a Hobby wing 130 pro platinum HV. Any body want to purchase a Align 700 DFC with KST servos, Ikon 2 , and X nova motor ?
i purchased 2 hobbywing a 60A and 100A. the programming is very confusing and tech support sucks. i emaid support and told them after programing the throttle on my heli, my motor will start spooling at 50% throttle. his reply was" it seems to me that you are having programming problem". what an idiot. I am with you. never again.
can someone help me. am trying to get the throttle to start after 5 to 7% throttle not 40%. and i can't remember how to do it. my 100A starts after 5 to 7%. i would appreciate your help very much. again will not run Governor on this bird REPLY. i am not getting any support from hobbywing.
Charles, they're Supra X Pro D6 connectors by RC Pro Plus. easy to solder, reusable, high amp rating, very secure yet easy to unplug. Best connectors on the planet. good luck finding them in stock in the US though
what are those battery connectors call. i want to get some
After RPM standardization, and after your heli spools down, according to the printed instructions, before you power down the heli, it says the lower your throttle stick on yer Tx to the bottom position in order to flash the standardized rpm to the ESC's memory. Not sure if engaging throttle hold takes care of that step, but it's been a habit of mine either way.
As far as Spartan FBL's and HW V4 ESC's and their rpm output lead, I dealt with trying to get a 130A V4 to work with a vx1 forever and after reading and reading forums I just went ahead and went and soldered a external sensor to use with the FBL unit. Hopefully they sort something out soon, all V3 ESC's work just fine.....not v4's for some reason.
Nice video Dave!
HKMaster556 as long as the esc sees zero throttle it will be ok. Doesn't matter how it sees it as long as it does.
HW is currently working on the solution for the V4 escs throttle signal issue
HKMaster556 lol same here. Have fun!
Yeah, I figured as much it had to just be looking for a zero throttle signal in any fashion. Yeah, I was talking with someone the other day about not only the V4 rpm out issue thing, but a ton of other exciting things being worked on as well! Needless to say. I am excited. -J
quick question for you so you say not to go beyond 87 flat on high idle up in gov mode so what if the head speed is not high enough and you can not change the pinion.what would happen if you used a flat 100 esc failure or blow up esc .
nitrokyosho curious why you wouldn't be able to change the pinion? What would happen if you did run it at 100 would definitely be excessive heat and a very poorly performing governor.
DarkSyd3D ok thanks I'm use to castle gov these are new to me .align trex 700 x only offers 1 pinion but maybe at 87 % in at 2100 rpm need to use a tac
nitrokyosho castle govs are a little more liberal with their throttle which is why many smack pilots prefer a tighter running gov.
I'm surprised Align only offers one pinion option for the 700x. I wonder if the other Align 700 opinions would work.
2100 is a great headspeed but will shorten battery life. I'm noticing more and more pilots running lower headspeeds and increasing pitch for longer run times. Something to think about.
DarkSyd3D ok thanks buddy
nitrokyosho no problem
Hi, thank you for your video.
Is the LCD Program Box compatible with V4 ESCs out of the box or you need to update its firmware? Regards!
Most likely not. Since there have been several firmware updated to the V4 esc and 2 or three to the LCD box you would need to update the box first, then the esc
Thank You! Helped a lot :)
Hi Dave,So is it correct once set up that in Normal mode with a linear throttle curve 0 to 100 that nothing happens when the throttle stick of between 0 and 40% then when you raise the stick to 40% the motor will spool up to 40% ?
What kind of battery connectors are those? I have never seen them before looks like they plug and unplug very easily.
did you have to connect the rpm wire into fbl unit? or no need?
Thanks for the video. Have a question. I am new to rc heli and have trex 500. Does every ESC have governor mode if it has general beep 6 step setup? How can I find out if it has gov mode in the first place? Do I need to buy hobbyking program card for this?
Darksyde very good video awesome. I got one question i got the same equpment as you but how do i start a softstart where my blade spools up at the very beginning of my stick at lets say 5% stick i stead my blades start spinning at almost 50% I dont like that it scares me on my alzrc 380 devil which is essentially a goblin clone. Thanks Darksyde.
Paul Santora there's no way to do that when you're in any of the internal governing modes. The throttle doesn't respond till it's over 40%. But it should still spool up slowly with soft start as that is also controlled by the gov :)
why is that it allows more control over my throttle why would they allow that happening at 40% blahhhh thats horrible there is no soft start only soft stop. what is the readings when tje governor 1-9. and theres governor par 1 between 10 on my platinumm does 1 mean min start to max speed. Thanks so much Darksyde you are Life saver seriously.
Paul Santora I'm not sure what setting you're referring to. What esc do you have?
the same exact one you got Darksyde. there gov 1-9 and theres. gover par. 1-9 as well
well what do the numbers mean in governor mode mean anywAy. this helielf setting.
Paul Santora I'm still unsure what parameter you're in to know what it means. If you're using the LCD program box it will tell you at the top
When you select a setting like Helicopter store and press ok how do you know it's saved. The asterisk is only on the default values and stays that way so there's no indication that you have picked a setting.
Basil Yousif correct. The asterisk only shows what is the default value Incase you want to go back to it. You can verify the saved values but powering down the system and powering back up again. The saved values will always show first as you scroll through each parameter
hey what does it mean when you do a tic toc and the motors cuts out then comes back on. I tried adjusting the LVC and it doesn't do me any good?
Billy Sventzouris Most likely you have either a bad or loose or cold solder joint. Every time I've seen that happen that has been the cause. I would go over every solder joint that you have and make sure everything is nice and shiny. May want toeven consider reflowing the solder joints
Hi DarkSyd3D. I see that you are using a Spartan Vx1e. I'm on my second Vx1n build (Gaui X3) and I'm using a HW 60a V4. In *Live Status*, the Spartan does not acknowlege any signal from the built-in single wire RPM sensor when I run up the motor (bench testing, no blades).
On my first build (Align 450) I used a Castle Talon-35 and soldered a separate HW RPM sensor to the motor wires. The Vortex worked with that, no problem.
Does your Vortex work with the ESC's built-in single wire RPM sensor?
Funny you bring this up at this time :) just yesterday I started to test the external gov with the HW esc. so far it does recognize the signal with the 50a v3 but I'm stuck until Monday to set the rest up. I use Jeti Hero and didn't have the needed add on in the TX to use the gov function so I had to purchase it.
my next tests after the 50 will be the 60a, then 120lv, 130, and finally the 160hv all with the Vortex fbl.
I wanted to start with the 50 v3 because I know it works and wanted to get a base line of what to expect.
testing will take a few weeks but I should have results for the 60 by next week hopefully.
I would say for now use what works until there is a conclusion of what the issue is of the signal wire not working and we come up with a fix. Hope this helps.
cheers
DarkSyd3D
Hi & thankyou for replying. I did solder an external HW RPM sensor and it seems to work fine with the Spartan.
Bigger problem though... I don't thing the BEC is putting out constant power. Both Satellites flash and there are interruptions in the servo operation. Just working the collective up & down, there are "freezes". I did try a different ESC (HW V3 50 amp) and both Sats are solid ON, and servo operation is constant. I did send a message to Hobbywing North America. I purchased this back in Feb of this year. Do you think they will do an exchange?
+Stringfellow Hawke they should no problem. Got to www.hobbywingdirect.com and fill out an rma
They should take care of you....did you end up sending it in on a rma??? Also how sure were you of all your solder joints??? Kinda sounds like a cold solder causing you power issues. If not I got noooo idea. Hehe. Hope you got her fixed.
They did replace it... no fuss. I don't know about the solder joints. I had a LHS do it and they looked good. With the new one, I bought a soldering station and did it myself. Had a very hard time & it took me way too long. So I hope the joints are ok now. They seem to be working. Thankyou.
Hello Boss!1 Another quick question hereif you could please guide me. i got the HW 100 V3 it says it comes with rpm sensor. how do i set that up? i got a dx9 and ikon . thanks alot.
Luis Lopez it doesn't come with an rpm sensor. It has an rpm out wire which is the single yellow cable. I believe you need the adapter the Ikon has to plug it into the ikons gov port
after is pluged. do i need to do anything on the radio or ikon? thanks for your time buddy.
Luis Lopez yes, depends if you want to use the Ikon gov or the internal HW gov. If using the Ikon gov you have to set the HW gov off with either heli gov off mode or fixed wing mode. You also have to set the Ikon gov up. Refer to the forum threads for those instructions
for brake mode. in my setup is off. should i keep itl ike that ot change it? thanks
Luis Lopez please keep it off for heli's. That function is only for airplanes :)
ok thanks so much.
Anytime
Hey dude, nice video and cool transmitter skin. Question for you, can I use this ESC with a Neo VBAR external gov?
you can but you have to use airplane mode and make sure your soft start on the vbar gov is enabled and working the way you want it
+DarkSyd3D ok great. Thanks. Are you on Facebook?
+Anthony Garcia yup. davebartleyrc. Helifreak too. darksyd3d
+DarkSyd3D So If I understand it correctly, the only purpose for that RPM sensor wire on the HW is to use an FBL unit's gov... correct? And for that, it has to be in Airplane mode so there's basically no delay between what the Spartan gov asks for, and what the HW will deliver? The ESC will be totally slaved to the Spartan Vortex. In other words, any delayed power (such as Soft Start) would have to be programmed into the FBL unit (Spartan or Vbar or Other).
And since I have the v4 60amp, and I want to use the Spartan's gov... I hope I'm not going to sacrifice the Active Freewheeling feature?
The manual does such a poor job of explaining these things. And using the Programming box, I couldn't find where to even enter the pinion/maingear ratio, pole count, pwm, etc... _even if I wanted_ to use the HW gov. Thanks for posting.
+Stringfellow Hawke you are correct about the esc being a slave for the FBL unit. If you want to have a soft start and auto bailout through the esc you would set it in Heli Linear (cant remember what its called in V4). Those are the only two gov features that can be programmed. If youre using Fixed Wing mode youll have to set everything in the spartan i.e. pole count, soft start, ect.
As far as the AFW I havent actually checked to see if it sill functions on an external gov. Im pretty sure you will still have that function but again, dont quote me lol.
Pole count and gear ration is not programmable because of how the RPM is standardized within the HW. Its not set based on the numbers you input. Its based on the load the esc senses during the store process.
As far as timing and PWM, try updating the program box to v3.2.22 and the esc to v4.0.0.1
My 160s didnt have those settings at one point and not they do. Not sure if it will be the same with the LV series.
Hope this helps!!
DarkSyd3D, Do you do the rpm standardization with or without the main blades on?
rex hamilton with blades on. Sorry for the late reply
Hi DarkSyd3D, where did you get your TX skin cover? I was looking several sites on net but I couldn't find any better than yours. where can I get one for my DX9?
hey dude. thanks! I actually Hydrodipped the transmitter. has to take everything out of the inside but it wasn't bad. look up hydrodipping on TH-cam and you can see how it's done
Hi again DarkSyd3D, I've ordered a hydrodipping kit and it will probably arrive by tomorrow. I decided to do myself :) I just have couple of questions if you don't mind I would like to ask you...
1. is it really hard to remove DX9 and put it back together, any tips or suggestions?
2. is it necessary to sand all the radio?
3. my theme is skulls, what base coat color should apply, black or white?
4. any further advise would be appreciated :)
thanx!!!
+necip ali the best tip for taking the TX apart I'd take pics of the inside and the order of the wires. mark the position of the switches and most importantly be very careful. small wires break easy.
I used a hobby grade media blaster I bought from harbor freight to dull the finish on the 9 so the base coau would adhere better. just tape off anything you don't want sanded like the screen and switch plates.
depending on your exact design and color would determine the choice of base color. On mine, the only foreground color is black so a black base coat would mask the image. white will make any color stand out well but is also prone to look dirty faster. The kit I purchased came with everything except the tub for dipping. the base coat is fast drying and covers well. and I used a matte clear coat with 4 coats of it.
If you've never done it before, find something with curves and crevices to practice on. You'll hate yourself if you stretch the image or it comes out looking bad.
+DarkSyd3D thank you very much, really helpful info for me. I will show you the result. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👌👌👌
governor store vs elfgov or only governor what is the different??????
gov store only requires one calibration for a fully charged pack. Afterword you when you use other packs you won't have to calibrate again. If you put in a poorly performing battery you may get shorter flight time because the Gov wants to maintain the headspeed based on the stored calibration.
Gov ELF requires a calibration every time you go to fly after unplugging a pack. This option will make the gov work based on the output of the pack currently in use.
Ron Larkin I don't see your comment although I have a notification of one from you. You can PM me on helifreak anytime.
DarkSyd3D I'll try responding to this. If you don't get this time I will go to HF. I have set up my esc as per your vid. And the governor works well in idle 1 and 2. Is it correct that in normal mode set with a linear 0 to 100 pitch curve that the motor doesn't spool until the stick is raised to 40% position and then the motor quickly spools up to 40 % throttle?
Rod Larkin hey ron, it's normal for the motor not to engage till the esc sees 40% throttle or more as this is one of the functions of the gov.
Depending on what you mean by "quickly" spooling up in linear mode it's possible it's doing that if you have the auto bailout set. Otherwise it should spool up like it would in IU 1 or 2
Had to rebind the radio with zero thro. Cheers!
iPilott4411 sorry dude. Totally skipped over where you said you had a Spektrum radio lol. Glad you got it!
LOL!! naah! In your defense I do believe I my not have mentioned that part! LOL!! Cheers
can someone help me. am trying to get the throttle to start after 5 to 7% throttle not 40%. and i can't remember how to do it. my 100A starts after 5 to 7%. i would appreciate your help very much. again will not run Governor on this bird. i am not getting any support from hobbywing.
where did you get skulls print for the radio
rac heal roseinblat it's a hydrodip pattern I found online. Don't remember the website name but ones that sell the DIY kits ha e TONS of patterns
hey I have the same controller and cant get it into program mode any ideas...
try updating both the ESC and program box firmwares. if they don't match they won't communicate with eachother
Whats the best timing and pwm for the scorpion 4020 1100kv motor for a power set up im running 8 pwm and 5 timing and it don’t feel powerful enough?
heli baz I always just play around with those settings until I can get the right balance of power and efficiency. That's probably the best thing to do
DarkSyd3D hi i need a quicker pitch punch do i need more headspeed i have a 18t pinion now but it punches up slow can i go for a 20t pinion will that work?
heli baz I assume by the size of the motor you're flying a 500?
Increasing the pinion size will increase the headspeed but will also take some torque away.
Depending on how much pitch you have you may need to increase it or even decrease the expo for pitch.
th-cam.com/video/yvm8d8Ijeq0/w-d-xo.html
The punch is not that good what do you suggest
I have the 60A esc and after i programme the throttle, the motor spools up at 50%. 0 to 49% i get nothing. why?
lys avin actually it should be closer to 40% throttle before the motor starts to spool up. If it doesn't spool up till 50% you may need to recalibrate the throttle end points.
The 40% is normal for any gov mode as that's how you know it is programmed correctly.
I am not running Gov mode. I haven't even got to that part yet. i just purchased this esc and i am trying to program the high and low throttle.
can you spell your name so i can find you on facebook. i think you said dave barley right.
my 100A hobbywing was doing the same thing and this guy showed me how to fix it. and get the throttle to start after 5%, but i forgot how.
i will never buy a hobbywing esc again
Why would you run the gov in the ESc, instead of the FBL unit? I run a brain, and I thought they were supposed to have better Govs than an ESC, since they are proactive, rather than reactive.
tee HW gov is extremely tight and has zero loss of HS in any maneuver I can put on them. it is reactive and TECHNICALLY a fbl responds first but for me it's not a noticeable difference. There's always power when needed
Ok, cool. I'm just more comfortable setting up the Gov in the Brain. When I callibrate my 100A Platinum v3 for the first time, should I have it in a normal mode with my throttle curve 0,25,50,75,100? The reason I sak is because I am supposed to run my curves in the brain 40, 60, and 100 all the way across. thanks.
+steve sparrow the HW gov is quite easy to set up if you have the LCD program box.
Initially you'll need to set the endpoints like normal in the brain and keep a 0-100 linear curve to calibrate the HW throttle. This is done by moving the throttle stick to full, arming the esc and wait for the first couple tones. Then after go to zero throttle and you should hear the rest of the tones. Make sure your throttle hold is off during this :)
Yes, I have the Progamming box. I just was not sure if I should have my TX set up for normal mode to be 0 through 100, linear. I think for my throttle it was up at 137 both low and high, because I had a castle talon. I guess I go back and set those to 100 in the TX? I don't think it really has the end points for the throttle in the brain, just the pitch, and then you set head speeds.
+steve sparrow unless something changed in the brain software the throttle endpoints had to be set in the fbl using the travel adjust on the TX. you should get a 0 at low and a 100 in high in the throttle setup screen of the brain software.
The throttle servo numbers don't matter to the HW as long as the brain sees 0-100 the throttle curve is linear. The HW will see that as 0-100 as well
dont have program box trying to do through the TX
oh I see. Unfortunately the V4 escs aren't stick programmable. This is because there are more parameters to set the the V3 and using a program box or Wifi express module eliminates all the confusion.
also, there is no way to update firmware without one of the above mentioned items
Can you tell me how to get into program mode using the Tx I have the 100 amp platinum v3 I turn on the tx put throttle to full ( throttle hold on )then plug in battery and it just arms normally.
oh my mistake. I thought this was my 160 video lol. you need to have TH off for programming mode to activate. So keep the throttle at 100 then arm with TH off. make sure to calibrate the throttle first so it sees the 100
I thought one critical piece of information should FIRST be to confirm that the throttle curves are linear. It they are something else, wouldn't that cause a problem?
3DLee Live Action that's what I meant by saying the end points being 0-100.
thanks for the confirmation. Its a great video and works perfectly
I don't have a $300.00 radio. I use a $49.00 radio. but just spent $275.00 for a Hobby wing 130 pro platinum HV.
Any body want to purchase a Align 700 DFC with KST servos, Ikon 2 , and X nova motor ?
If you get this darksyd check your pms at helifreak I just messaged you on Thier.from genuine.
Hobbywing is junk! no warranty. I bought direct and had problems with 2 of the 4 esc's! I got bent over!
If you bought them direct you had a warranty bud, I would double check that whole 'bought direct' theory.
I been using these...no problems at all
i purchased 2 hobbywing a 60A and 100A. the programming is very confusing and tech support sucks. i emaid support and told them after programing the throttle on my heli, my motor will start spooling at 50% throttle. his reply was" it seems to me that you are having programming problem". what an idiot. I am with you. never again.
can someone help me. am trying to get the throttle to start after 5 to 7% throttle not 40%. and i can't remember how to do it. my 100A starts after 5 to 7%. i would appreciate your help very much. again will not run Governor on this bird
REPLY. i am not getting any support from hobbywing.