nice product. I would recommend coating the insife with a food grade/safe polyurethane. especially if using pine because of pines natural resin. simple to do, just pour a little inside, spin the flask around to evenly coat then place nozzle side down and allow excess to drip out and the remainder will dry.
I would have made the stopper plug and handle from one piece as I can just imagine the glue giving way and the plug stuck in the mouthpiece. Apart from that, a brilliant project.
Thank you for sharing. I am involved with a medieval style LARP, and I plan do try this out for that. I'm a hobby woodworker also, so this should be pretty simple for me to make.
When I make this sort of thing, as well as my leather flasks, I seal the interiors with molten brewer's resin, pour out the excess, and let cool while inverted. Later, still inverted on a foil-lined tray, I put them in a low-temp oven to melt out the rest of the excess. Sometimes, I repeat the process if a flask leaks.
Love the build but I'm cautious about using glue for things that will come into contact with food or drink. They use metal rings for whiskey barrels to hold the wood together and the liquid expands the wood to make it water proof. Also, they only use white oak for spirits such as rum, whiskey and such. Maybe you could come up with something like metal staples or clasps that hold the wood together to age rums or whiskeys in. It's getting real popular to make very small whiskey bottles on youtube. Could you do something like that? Again, nice build!
Good example of glue around food: Wooden cutting boards :) Almost every chef has a wooden board and almost every one is held together with some sort of wood glue.
NO..the finish may be food safe, and applied for other reasons...but the glue holding the individual boards will be in regular contact with knives as they chop/slice into the board. It too needs to be food safe, and is usually a made out of close to the same stuff that your water bottles are made from.
Great construction. I think I'll put this on my todo list for a birthday present, using seasoned oak and a metal band, maybe copper. Seasoned oak is good because it soaks up the moisture and expands into the band, creating a perfect seal. If it then dries out, it returns to the size it was before when the band was put on, so it shouldn't fall apart!
great work... for food safe / leak proof 1 use right glue shoping aroung ask google. 2 in the middle insirt make your mouthpice when you make it and put a 1/8-1/4 lip on the center and reciving slot on the sides 3 fill with sawdust and set aflame burning just the inside
I am glad i clicked. This is awesome. I went on your page to inquire purchasing it. But i do not see one like this with the old barrel style. I really like it.
Excellent use of power tools. At one time I did pretty much everything by hand, but I am in a lot of pain and burned out most of the time now. I think you could just use the same procedure they use for kuska cups to treat it. Some initiate it into use with coffee, whiskey, and then what I have used after that is coconut oil. Tastes good , treats the wood, etc. Anyway, thanks for sharing, it is always nice to start the morning off with inspirational videos such as this one. Makes me want to have my first cup of coffee and let the wood chips fly!!! ;)
Stumbled across this after looking for barrel making. I like that you include specs, what size bits, types of wood , sizes etc. That alone got me to subscribe. Nice work!
Great project, easy to follow and modify. For others thinking about this project, though: be careful what wood you use for this project, especially if you use hardware store pine. There may be anti-rot chemical traces on the wood that can leech into your drink unless you coat the inside of the flask with food-grade epoxy.
You are quite right. I tend to get my timber from a yard rather than a Home Depot style store. Also some exotic woods are poisonous them selfs. If you are not sure, go to a reputable lumber yard and ask their advice. Thanks for the comment.
just to be informational, this will eventually start leaking. I learned a technique that keeps that from happening. Get a piece of metal coat hanger wire and a hammer. Now hammer the wire into the wood (making an indent ) before you glue your sides on. Actually this method doesn't even require glue you could instead use like decorative nails. well any ways... after the seam gets wet that "wire indentation " will swell up making a bead and thus sealing your canteen / flask. Wish I could post a pic but I'm sure with a little research u can find out what I'm talking about if I didn't describe it good enough. woodworkers use this technique on wet stone tubs. REALLY NICE VIDEO. they look great!
Question. I have also been experimenting with wooden water bottles. So far I have made two bottles and seem to always have the same problem. The glue joint between the middle piece and the sides cracks. I know that wood expands when moist but I am still confused. I am noting the grain direction on all the pieces. On the first bottle, the cracks appeared at the parts where end grain is. I think it might have something to do with the quality of my wood glue. I am using waterproof glue but I suppose I could try a higher quality one. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Hello, it may be that the wood you are using is too dry when you are making the flask. You want a much higher moisture content than for say cabinet work. try spritzing the wood with water and putting it in a polythene bag for a few days before cutting to size.
@@l.h.9747 its bees wax they used back then or fat, but fat doesn't taste good so bees wax was used since the 17th and 18th century, in 1870 they figured out that Smoke masks alarm pheromones which include various chemicals, e.g., isopentyl acetate that are released by guard bees or bees that are injured during a beekeeper's inspection. The smoke creates an opportunity for the beekeeper to open the beehive and work while the colony's defensive response is interrupted.
Interesting idea. I might have to make one of these myself, though I'll probably use my lathe to round out a block rather than cutting it round (I don't have a band saw, so it's just a matter of using what I have).
Hi, I really like this build. But won't the water/whiskey/brandy/whatever seep through the wood? Or if you empty it and leave it be, will it not mould on the inside? I will be making something of this sort so I ask if I should coat the inside with something.
Very nice project piece. It's simple and easy and looks fun to do. It can be sealed with any number of food safe products, such as true Tung Oil, food safe resins, beeswax, mineral oil, olive oil, even polyurethane (has to cure for at least 7 days). I don't know anything about the glue you used, I'm sure it's fine considering it's nontoxic. Once a sealer is put over it, it won't matter anyways. As far as the stain, I'd be careful with those simply because it will soak through the end grains and work it's way inside and if there is no sealer to serve as a barrier it can mix with your water or whatever fluid you put into it. Just a simple piece of advise on that one. I really do like this project and I definitely want to do one similar except I'll do mine on the lathe (easier to sand and shape, I too hate sanding haha). Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up from me.
If you leave some extra material on the 'bottom' you can make it flat so it has a shelf to sit on, that way you don't have to worry about it rolling around when you set it down.
Doesnt need anything to seal it. Long as it is dried out after each use and stored properly. The wood also has its own antibacterial properties. Why add anything when the wood does a perfectly good job on its own?
Interesting idea, my main concern is using dye where drinking water is used. I'm presuming the PVA has the D4 additive to make it not come apart when water is added (I'd be careful not to poison myself with contamination the water with it), and my third obviation is how you would water proof the inside of the flask so it wouldn't damage the wood in the long run?
Excellent craftsmanship buddy. In my opinion I would have used pine sap for the glue being it's a 100% waterproof an natural. You can find balls of it on the sides of the tree
This brings me some bad memories. I had one of these wooden water bottle, my grandpa gave it to me. It was ancient, nicely carved and cool, a craftsmanship piece of art. I took it with me to a summer camp even that my grandpa insisted not to do it. I didn't listen to him, so, it happened. Some jerk colleague stole it from me! I could be more careful with my stuff. I still mourn that bottle today, even that it happened about 35 years ago. LOL so sad... So, kids, eyes on your wooden bottles and listen to your grandparents! LOL
+Robbie Rivera making powder flasks is another hornets nest (I make those too but haven't the courage to post that on youtube, every expert in the world will be telling me Im doing it wrong... despite the fact that the majority have no actual tangible experience in the matter. But that never stops the keyboard warriors) two points i would recommend, 1) is to fit a safety valve that measures out a set quantity of powder, then closes off the flask, so should the worst happen and the powder is ignited, it only burns a small quantity and not the whole flask. 2) fit a bung in the base, that, again should the worse happen and the powder in the flask does ignite, the bung is blown out, rather than the flask explode. there is a lot of really good information available on the internet and it is well worth researching before you go into the workshop. You may already know all this, but i thought it would be prudent to say something. hope that helps, if you require any more help in this matter you can contact me on my facebook page facebook.com/theswallowforge.
You can make this project using hand tools. A coping saw is very handy. It just takes a little longer. I have made these using a very limited tool kit.
My bandsaw takes an odd size of blade. I got it massively discounted as it is no longer in production. I did buy a load of blades when I got it and I sharpen them myself using the method shown by Mathias Wendal. They are much sharper than when they come out of the packet. Hope that helps. All the best SF
curious as to the interior of the canteen. did you seal it in any way? I didn't notice any sealer for the interior. just curious because of the treatments they use on some woods during milling.
+Shane Rudd I don't seal the insides. It really doesn't need it. Plus I make sure I use untreated wood. After each use rinse it out and let it dry. If you want to be extra safe you can always sterilise it with baby bottle sterilising solution. The main thing is not to leave water in it for more than a day or so. Hope that helps. SF
Hello. Thank you for the kind comment. The wood doesn’t need sealing, just don’t keep liquid in it for more than a couple of days. And store it upright with the spout up.
Theoretically; any waterproofing thing you can get in there. Waxes are good but could melt under heat, so boiling liquids going into that thing wouldn't work. Food safe polyurethane would be a good choice overall, I'd say. You could also just use the wood as a shell over a waterproof pouch inside.
Neat little canteen, man! I know I should say something disparaging, since this is the internet, but I like this project! I think it would look cool if you used pegs or dowels around the edge; they would maybe take the stain different and the contrast would be groovy
+Jamie O'neal That's actually a very neat idea. I may try that :) Now where's my disparaging comment? All this positivity just doesn't feel right :) Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the feedback :)
Swallow Forge is there a way to cost the inside so that it would be safe to drink out of and would also last a long time without damaging the wood? Or possibly something to line the inside with?
GeneralXification you can use a food grade epoxy. but the idea is that as in old barrel construction, the wood swells and seals itself. hope that helps.
Depending on what drink it is, won't the pinewood flavour it? And if so, wouldn't that make the drink bitter and weird tasting? How come you didn't seal the inside?
Personally I like the taste of pine, The Drunken Monk made some amazing Pine resin beer once... it was delicious. Anyhow, I digress. it honestly doesnt affect the flavour, You should store any liquid in this for more than a day or two, so it wont have long enough to take on any flavour of the wood. It does not require any kind of seal. Hope you enjoyed the video. SF
Hello, the main reason is because if you drill the hole first, you cant use a router with a bearing guide to roundover the edges. Plus the hole is large enough that the sawdust can be shook out or given a blast with an airline. Hope that helps. Sf.
Only downside is that hot beverages will melt and leech some of the wax over time, requiring additional coats. Not harmful, mind you, just inconvenient.
Not a stupid question at all. Usually with this kind of container, it's not recommended to leave water in them for more than a day or so as the water will start to taste funny. But that's the same with plastic drinks canteens too. With alcohol yes, some flavour from the wood is absorbed, but with the right wood it can be a good thing :) that is why whiskey makers take so much care with the barrels they use. Again though, I wouldn't recommend leaving spirits in the container for more than a week or so. Hope that helps. All the best. SF
You can make the whole thing by hand. You can cut the centre section with a coping saw or if you have one a jigsaw. You can resaw the side panels with a hand saw. After that it's just a case of taking your time with sandpaper. Hope that helps.
+BennyCFD I was thinking the same thing. There was no sealer, no poly coat to make sure the wood doesnt absorb it all.. after a few uses, that wood will warp and it will be useless. Hell, even stabilizing it would be better then all natural.
+Harlequinn WoodWorks 1) the wood does not warp. 2) the wood does not absorb everything, and if you read the description notes it clearly says not to leave filled for more than a day or two. why fill your world with chemicals when the natural product does the job perfectly adequately. hope you enjoyed the video. SF
hahaha, touche' Another way you could go, Stabilize the wood first, and then use a few layers of shellac. then once its all cut out and put together, you would have a fully sealed and safe cannister for all liquids.
No it's non toxic. However I would not recommend leaving any liquid in the flask for more than a day or so. This is the same advise as given on nearly all hip flasks regardless of the material they are made from. Hope that helps. SF
Glad i read the comments before I posted a stupid questions - or what some may take as a stupid question - as I got my stupid questions answered by all the "Pros" who left comments - thanks for not wasting my time :)
It kind of looks like the sides of the flask are flat or rift sawn boards? Is that true? I guess if you are not keeping liquid in it more than a day or two it would not be a huge problem, but even over night I have seen pine warp pretty aggressively. I love the look, they came out beautiful. I think I might try them out of Sapele or some other 1/4 sawn boards that wont absorb much liquid. Thanks for the video!
Tape wouldn't work. As long as you cut carefully with a sharp forstner bit, you get very little tear out. I have made made many many of these. I think the process I use is the most efficient. Thank you for your comments though. It's always good to think the process through
***** hello, I found that waterproof PVA is fine. There doesn't seem to be any problems. if you are concerned with contamination etc, you can use a food grade epoxy.
Thank you. I used pine from a lumber yard (untreated, air dried) and no seal is required. Just make sure you rinse it out after use and store with the stopper left out.
that was wonderful brother. but i want to ask about the rest of glue which is still inside the bottle . ?i mean does that not matter because as you know even if the glue got dried an tough its gonna get back liquid again if it stays into the water for long . and that gonna make problem thanks for this awesome clip and i'm sorry about my simple English and i hope you understood what i meant
Thank you for your comment. The Glue is waterproof and non-toxic, there is very little 'squeeze' out inside the bottle. In my experience it really doesn't matter. Once the glue is set, it stays set. I hope that helps. All the best SF
Great job. However, If I were in your place, I would have cut just two-thirds of the main plat and then get rid of the excess of remaining wood in the middle, so I have to cover only one side of the bottle with a separate piece of wood. Moreover, I would close the bottle by gluing the side at the end of the whole process so I could put a plastic bag inside the bottle to fill it with water instead of filling water inside the bottle itself. Otherwise, I would use natural tar extracted from trees to paint the bottle from the inside to minimize the side effect of the glue. And good luck with your future projects.
Its a flask not n ageing barrel. No liquid should be kept in it for more than few days. However, if you wish to make one out of Burnt oak I can't see any issues with that, just make sure the edges that are glued are free from char. :)
I seem to have had a sudden rush of views... has this been posted somewhere?
thank you for watching/ supporting :)
it just appeared in my recommended videos among other wood related stuff (and I'm glad it did )
Thank you guys, much appreciated :)
I noticed this video in my "recommended videos" on TH-cam. Never seen your channel before, really cool video btw :)
The ways of youtube are ... you know right?
Swallow Forge that is how I found your channel. I like to do stuff like you do but I don't have enough money so I watch TH-cam
nice product. I would recommend coating the insife with a food grade/safe polyurethane. especially if using pine because of pines natural resin. simple to do, just pour a little inside, spin the flask around to evenly coat then place nozzle side down and allow excess to drip out and the remainder will dry.
I was gonna say...some way to waterproof the inside would make for a better flask. Thanks.
I was about to comment the same thing. It's not much use if the wood absorbs all the water and then possibly falls apart in the middle of a hike.
some nice hard 80 proof whiskey should dissolve that adhesive really good, mmmm i just love licking me some whiskey off the floor! (ง ͠° ͟ل͜ ͡°)ง
I've had 120 proof in one like this and it didn't do anything adverse to the adhesive.
Edward Norton yours nay have been sealed also. That's why it may not have been affected.
I would have made the stopper plug and handle from one piece as I can just imagine the glue giving way and the plug stuck in the mouthpiece. Apart from that, a brilliant project.
Thank you for sharing. I am involved with a medieval style LARP, and I plan do try this out for that. I'm a hobby woodworker also, so this should be pretty simple for me to make.
They look beautiful. I loved the mini router table! Awesome job!
Thank you :) I checked out your channel, you've got some good stuff on there. So I subscribed :)
This was super cool to watch!
When I make this sort of thing, as well as my leather flasks, I seal the interiors with molten brewer's resin, pour out the excess, and let cool while inverted. Later, still inverted on a foil-lined tray, I put them in a low-temp oven to melt out the rest of the excess. Sometimes, I repeat the process if a flask leaks.
i dont think im capable of making anything you showcase i just want you to know i love your videos
Love the build but I'm cautious about using glue for things that will come into contact with food or drink. They use metal rings for whiskey barrels to hold the wood together and the liquid expands the wood to make it water proof. Also, they only use white oak for spirits such as rum, whiskey and such. Maybe you could come up with something like metal staples or clasps that hold the wood together to age rums or whiskeys in. It's getting real popular to make very small whiskey bottles on youtube. Could you do something like that? Again, nice build!
Just use food safe glue...
An American Homestead Titebond III would be a good glue, waterproof and fda approved
Good example of glue around food: Wooden cutting boards :)
Almost every chef has a wooden board and almost every one is held together with some sort of wood glue.
True, but those cutting boards have a finish on them that makes them food safe
NO..the finish may be food safe, and applied for other reasons...but the glue holding the individual boards will be in regular contact with knives as they chop/slice into the board. It too needs to be food safe, and is usually a made out of close to the same stuff that your water bottles are made from.
"Thumbs up" for the whole video, but especially that router jig!
Nice circle jig. Never thought to make one like that.
Great construction. I think I'll put this on my todo list for a birthday present, using seasoned oak and a metal band, maybe copper. Seasoned oak is good because it soaks up the moisture and expands into the band, creating a perfect seal. If it then dries out, it returns to the size it was before when the band was put on, so it shouldn't fall apart!
Thank you for your kind comment. Sounds like a plan. Let me know how you get on :)
great work... for food safe / leak proof 1 use right glue shoping aroung ask google. 2 in the middle insirt make your mouthpice when you make it and put a 1/8-1/4 lip on the center and reciving slot on the sides 3 fill with sawdust and set aflame burning just the inside
i just got to say this really don't comment on videos but watching your vid's man your good and a genius.
I am glad i clicked. This is awesome. I went on your page to inquire purchasing it. But i do not see one like this with the old barrel style. I really like it.
shouldn't you have added an internal bladder so that the wood doesn't degrade from the liquid? also won't alcohol degrade the glue?
omg...how patient you are I'm impressed
No patience involved if you enjoy what you're doing :)
I need to build other stuff to sell, so I can buy the tools I need to build this. This video is a inspiration.
Awesome!!! Finally a video without all the hype! TYVM
+Alakro I liked and subscribed... Bring us more please.
Excellent use of power tools. At one time I did pretty much everything by hand, but I am in a lot of pain and burned out most of the time now. I think you could just use the same procedure they use for kuska cups to treat it. Some initiate it into use with coffee, whiskey, and then what I have used after that is coconut oil. Tastes good , treats the wood, etc. Anyway, thanks for sharing, it is always nice to start the morning off with inspirational videos such as this one. Makes me want to have my first cup of coffee and let the wood chips fly!!! ;)
Thank you for your kind comment. Coconut oil ? Now that's the perfect lining for a Rum flask. Good suggestion :)
Stumbled across this after looking for barrel making. I like that you include specs, what size bits, types of wood , sizes etc. That alone got me to subscribe. Nice work!
Thank you :)
Great project, easy to follow and modify. For others thinking about this project, though: be careful what wood you use for this project, especially if you use hardware store pine. There may be anti-rot chemical traces on the wood that can leech into your drink unless you coat the inside of the flask with food-grade epoxy.
You are quite right. I tend to get my timber from a yard rather than a Home Depot style store. Also some exotic woods are poisonous them selfs.
If you are not sure, go to a reputable lumber yard and ask their advice. Thanks for the comment.
one of the better inst, vids I have seen in a long while bravo
Thank you. That's kind of you to say so. :)
I always wondered how they made wooden canteens, great vid, cheers for uploading.
Great idea, poured melted wax inside mine to seal it, solid build idea, thanks for posting.
Wouldn't a water/fluid proof lacquer be needed on the inside to prevent the wood from absorbing it and, Generally, causing failure of container?
such a simple project. lol. They are very nice. But who has all that equipment? Do you sell them?
just to be informational, this will eventually start leaking. I learned a technique that keeps that from happening. Get a piece of metal coat hanger wire and a hammer. Now hammer the wire into the wood (making an indent ) before you glue your sides on. Actually this method doesn't even require glue you could instead use like decorative nails. well any ways... after the seam gets wet that "wire indentation " will swell up making a bead and thus sealing your canteen / flask. Wish I could post a pic but I'm sure with a little research u can find out what I'm talking about if I didn't describe it good enough. woodworkers use this technique on wet stone tubs. REALLY NICE VIDEO. they look great!
That circle cutting jig is just fantastic! Thanks for the amazing idea! (also the flash is amazing)
Thank you, I was going to d a video on circle cutting jigs if its something people would be interested in. all the best .SF
Question. I have also been experimenting with wooden water bottles. So far I have made two bottles and seem to always have the same problem. The glue joint between the middle piece and the sides cracks. I know that wood expands when moist but I am still confused. I am noting the grain direction on all the pieces. On the first bottle, the cracks appeared at the parts where end grain is. I think it might have something to do with the quality of my wood glue. I am using waterproof glue but I suppose I could try a higher quality one. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Hello, it may be that the wood you are using is too dry when you are making the flask. You want a much higher moisture content than for say cabinet work. try spritzing the wood with water and putting it in a polythene bag for a few days before cutting to size.
Thank you! I will try it!
Don't you need to coat the inside with some sealant ?
yes i think they used some sort of wax for it
@@l.h.9747 its bees wax they used back then or fat, but fat doesn't taste good so bees wax was used since the 17th and 18th century, in 1870 they figured out that Smoke masks alarm pheromones which include various chemicals, e.g., isopentyl acetate that are released by guard bees or bees that are injured during a beekeeper's inspection. The smoke creates an opportunity for the beekeeper to open the beehive and work while the colony's defensive response is interrupted.
Thanks! Now I know what to make for my daughter's birthday gift.
Is there a way to seal the inside of the flask so it doesn't absorb the water or whatever liquid is put in it and expand?
awesome work, looks well made !
For everyone concerned about drinking from bare wood, a period-correct coating is brewer's pitch:
jas-townsend.com/brewers-pitch-p-373.html
+Christopher Powers Jas-townsend does not recommend brewers pitch if you are going to fill with scotch
+Brian Park if its a decent aged single malt, it will hardly have time to touch the sides... :)
+Swallow Forge Aberlour
most accurate and important post on this entire thread!
Love the vid btw
Interesting idea. I might have to make one of these myself, though I'll probably use my lathe to round out a block rather than cutting it round (I don't have a band saw, so it's just a matter of using what I have).
Sounds like a plan :) I have turned them myself in the past.
Hi, I really like this build. But won't the water/whiskey/brandy/whatever seep through the wood? Or if you empty it and leave it be, will it not mould on the inside? I will be making something of this sort so I ask if I should coat the inside with something.
Very nice project piece. It's simple and easy and looks fun to do. It can be sealed with any number of food safe products, such as true Tung Oil, food safe resins, beeswax, mineral oil, olive oil, even polyurethane (has to cure for at least 7 days). I don't know anything about the glue you used, I'm sure it's fine considering it's nontoxic. Once a sealer is put over it, it won't matter anyways. As far as the stain, I'd be careful with those simply because it will soak through the end grains and work it's way inside and if there is no sealer to serve as a barrier it can mix with your water or whatever fluid you put into it. Just a simple piece of advise on that one. I really do like this project and I definitely want to do one similar except I'll do mine on the lathe (easier to sand and shape, I too hate sanding haha). Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up from me.
If you leave some extra material on the 'bottom' you can make it flat so it has a shelf to sit on, that way you don't have to worry about it rolling around when you set it down.
That router table idea is absolutely genius
Very nice! I loved this idea!
Nice but what did you not put into the inside to seal it so it does not expand an eventually crack
Doesnt need anything to seal it. Long as it is dried out after each use and stored properly. The wood also has its own antibacterial properties. Why add anything when the wood does a perfectly good job on its own?
Interesting idea, my main concern is using dye where drinking water is used. I'm presuming the PVA has the D4 additive to make it not come apart when water is added (I'd be careful not to poison myself with contamination the water with it), and my third obviation is how you would water proof the inside of the flask so it wouldn't damage the wood in the long run?
Excellent craftsmanship buddy. In my opinion I would have used pine sap for the glue being it's a 100% waterproof an natural. You can find balls of it on the sides of the tree
Very nice! I know two boys who would love one. Will try soon.
I watch all of your videos!they have given me some great ideas! Thanks!
Thank you for the support, much appreciated.
dude, excellent. thank you for a million ideas all at once.
new subscription here.
+Alan Avery
Thank you Alan. Much appreciated. :)
Very Nice! I remember when I was a kids. I have um the plastic. Use for play with my brother. Tks a lot! Lourenço Brazil
Was nice to see you index the screws so few do that these days
Thank you for noticing :)
very easy i have all equipamentos thankfully for you share with us
This brings me some bad memories. I had one of these wooden water bottle, my grandpa gave it to me. It was ancient, nicely carved and cool, a craftsmanship piece of art. I took it with me to a summer camp even that my grandpa insisted not to do it. I didn't listen to him, so, it happened. Some jerk colleague stole it from me! I could be more careful with my stuff. I still mourn that bottle today, even that it happened about 35 years ago. LOL so sad... So, kids, eyes on your wooden bottles and listen to your grandparents! LOL
Cool little project.. I am thinking of doing some minor spout tweaks and using it to hold my black powder.
+Robbie Rivera making powder flasks is another hornets nest
(I make those too but haven't the courage to post that on youtube, every expert in the world will be telling me Im doing it wrong... despite the fact that the majority have no actual tangible experience in the matter. But that never stops the keyboard warriors)
two points i would recommend, 1) is to fit a safety valve that measures out a set quantity of powder, then closes off the flask, so should the worst happen and the powder is ignited, it only burns a small quantity and not the whole flask.
2) fit a bung in the base, that, again should the worse happen and the powder in the flask does ignite, the bung is blown out, rather than the flask explode. there is a lot of really good information available on the internet and it is well worth researching before you go into the workshop. You may already know all this, but i thought it would be prudent to say something. hope that helps, if you require any more help in this matter you can contact me on my facebook page facebook.com/theswallowforge.
maybe i missed something but you didnt use any kind of finish inside right? wont it rot?
So satisfying to watch.
Very cool! Nice looking!
Thank you :)
so can you do anything without powertools or with tools poeple have at home?
You can make this project using hand tools. A coping saw is very handy. It just takes a little longer. I have made these using a very limited tool kit.
where do you get such good bandsaw blades? Not home depot.
My bandsaw takes an odd size of blade. I got it massively discounted as it is no longer in production. I did buy a load of blades when I got it and I sharpen them myself using the method shown by Mathias Wendal. They are much sharper than when they come out of the packet. Hope that helps. All the best SF
curious as to the interior of the canteen. did you seal it in any way? I didn't notice any sealer for the interior. just curious because of the treatments they use on some woods during milling.
+Shane Rudd
I don't seal the insides. It really doesn't need it. Plus I make sure I use untreated wood. After each use rinse it out and let it dry. If you want to be extra safe you can always sterilise it with baby bottle sterilising solution. The main thing is not to leave water in it for more than a day or so. Hope that helps. SF
Brilliant, I love it. I'm assuming the wood you used is pine, or Douglass fir? Did you waterproof the interior with anything?
Hello. Thank you for the kind comment. The wood doesn’t need sealing, just don’t keep liquid in it for more than a couple of days. And store it upright with the spout up.
It looks like pine to me.
perhaps coating the insides with something so the wood wont mold or warp or give your drink a wooddy flavor?
beeswax
+Spudwellington so... is there any other thing that you can use?
Theoretically; any waterproofing thing you can get in there. Waxes are good but could melt under heat, so boiling liquids going into that thing wouldn't work. Food safe polyurethane would be a good choice overall, I'd say. You could also just use the wood as a shell over a waterproof pouch inside.
Neat little canteen, man! I know I should say something disparaging, since this is the internet, but I like this project! I think it would look cool if you used pegs or dowels around the edge; they would maybe take the stain different and the contrast would be groovy
+Jamie O'neal
That's actually a very neat idea. I may try that :)
Now where's my disparaging comment? All this positivity just doesn't feel right :)
Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the feedback :)
Arghhhh it doesn't fly!!! And it doesn't make me invincible or spontaneously refill with whiskey!! What a fake! Arrgh I'm insane with fury lmao
Swallow Forge is there a way to cost the inside so that it would be safe to drink out of and would also last a long time without damaging the wood? Or possibly something to line the inside with?
GeneralXification you can use a food grade epoxy. but the idea is that as in old barrel construction, the wood swells and seals itself. hope that helps.
Swallow Forge yes it does help, thank you very much
I realy like that quick release clamp you use on the drill press. Where did you get that thing?
Your jig-making skills... wow.!! ^_^ I actually learned alot from this. Thanks man! Keep it up!
+Kurt Krut
Thank you. I am planning on doing a video on some simple but very useful jigs soon. All the best. SF
Doesn't using pine give it a bitter taste, especially if you use it for alcohol?
Depending on what drink it is, won't the pinewood flavour it? And if so, wouldn't that make the drink bitter and weird tasting?
How come you didn't seal the inside?
Personally I like the taste of pine, The Drunken Monk made some amazing Pine resin beer once... it was delicious. Anyhow, I digress. it honestly doesnt affect the flavour, You should store any liquid in this for more than a day or two, so it wont have long enough to take on any flavour of the wood. It does not require any kind of seal. Hope you enjoyed the video. SF
Nice build, thanks for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it. :) all the best. SF
Interesting work. Nice piece.
Thank you, much appreciated.
Why did you not drill the hole on the edge of the bottle before putting the sides on and leaving all that sawdust inside?
Hello, the main reason is because if you drill the hole first, you cant use a router with a bearing guide to roundover the edges. Plus the hole is large enough that the sawdust can be shook out or given a blast with an airline. Hope that helps. Sf.
Thumbs up! Nice video and a BIG thank you for not using the crappy annoying free TH-cam music!---Subscribed.
Thank you Tom, much appreciated.
have you thought about coating the inside with melted bees wax?
+Rachel Woodruff Smart... without.. kinda yucky...
+Rachel Woodruff Smart... without.. kinda yucky...
+Rachel Woodruff I did that with mine. Just melted some wax poured it in there shook it up and poured the excess.
Did this 4 times.
Only downside is that hot beverages will melt and leech some of the wax over time, requiring additional coats.
Not harmful, mind you, just inconvenient.
3 years later... I’ve seen this done a few times and am mining one of these my self for fun. Will alcohol mess up beeswax?
how were they made without the modern tools.
By hand. :)
Friggin Brill....i must agree negative comments suck. Great video. whoa betide we should ever start using barrels
Very cool !!! I wish I had the tools to do this
Andrew Fairbrother The first one i made was with a coping saw and a hand crank drill. you don't need fancy tools, just a bit more time and patience :)
Waaaowwoo que bonita te quedo esa cantinflora
That first cut looked fun. Cool vid, liked/subd
Man, you could char the inside and make mini aging casks for DIY whiskey distillers.
Thanks. :)
+ImprovisedSurvival my thinking! lol
Cool video! Great work.
You've put screws in sides of flask, and still, no leaks?
George Sears Thats because I made sure the screws were shorter than the wall thickness. I got the smarts me.
Swallow Forge sorry for stupid, and maybe ignorant question... But are water and other drinkable liquids tastes like wood, after they was poured in?
Not a stupid question at all. Usually with this kind of container, it's not recommended to leave water in them for more than a day or so as the water will start to taste funny. But that's the same with plastic drinks canteens too. With alcohol yes, some flavour from the wood is absorbed, but with the right wood it can be a good thing :) that is why whiskey makers take so much care with the barrels they use. Again though, I wouldn't recommend leaving spirits in the container for more than a week or so. Hope that helps. All the best. SF
Swallow Forge And if you're really worried about it, make the thing out of white oak, just like a whiskey barrel!
That's fricken Awesome brother... I know what i'm building this weekend, Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it. Let me know how you get on. If you have any questions you can contact me at
facebook.com/theswallowforge
Theese were awesome. I wanna make one, don't have the tools you do but I gotta see if I can't work around that.
You can make the whole thing by hand. You can cut the centre section with a coping saw or if you have one a jigsaw. You can resaw the side panels with a hand saw. After that it's just a case of taking your time with sandpaper. Hope that helps.
Swallow Forge Thanks, I do have a coping saw and access to a jigsaw so I might try that.
Won't the water taste like wood sense the inside wasn't sealed?
+BennyCFD I was thinking the same thing. There was no sealer, no poly coat to make sure the wood doesnt absorb it all.. after a few uses, that wood will warp and it will be useless. Hell, even stabilizing it would be better then all natural.
+BennyCFD Water will taste like glue with which it is glued.
+Harlequinn WoodWorks 1) the wood does not warp. 2) the wood does not absorb everything, and if you read the description notes it clearly says not to leave filled for more than a day or two.
why fill your world with chemicals when the natural product does the job perfectly adequately. hope you enjoyed the video. SF
+Strong Spirit Thats why i use extra tasty glue, with added electrolytes.
hahaha, touche'
Another way you could go, Stabilize the wood first, and then use a few layers of shellac. then once its all cut out and put together, you would have a fully sealed and safe cannister for all liquids.
Wow beautiful craftsmanship
I'll finally have a place to store my strawberry wine
Thats some wierd wine.
Your jig is genius!
The glue that you use on every part is it toxic if it stays in contact with whiskey for a longtime?
No it's non toxic. However I would not recommend leaving any liquid in the flask for more than a day or so. This is the same advise as given on nearly all hip flasks regardless of the material they are made from. Hope that helps. SF
+Swallow Forge Thanks for your answer and you advise.
Simple yet effective result, very nice project!
Glad i read the comments before I posted a stupid questions - or what some may take as a stupid question - as I got my stupid questions answered by all the "Pros" who left comments - thanks for not wasting my time :)
Shouldn't you seal the inside?
It kind of looks like the sides of the flask are flat or rift sawn boards? Is that true? I guess if you are not keeping liquid in it more than a day or two it would not be a huge problem, but even over night I have seen pine warp pretty aggressively. I love the look, they came out beautiful. I think I might try them out of Sapele or some other 1/4 sawn boards that wont absorb much liquid. Thanks for the video!
Id seal the inside of the bottle or even line it with something to prevent the wood from warping.
Why didn't you drill the hole before gluing the sides on? Did you use waterproof white glue?
If you drill the hole first, the bearing of the router round over bit drops into the hole tearing a chunk out of the side. Voice of experience :)
I see, but some tape over the hole would have prevented that and you wouldn't have to get chips out from inside and could have cleaned up the hole.
Tape wouldn't work. As long as you cut carefully with a sharp forstner bit, you get very little tear out. I have made made many many of these. I think the process I use is the most efficient. Thank you for your comments though. It's always good to think the process through
Is there any specific glue you need for this? I'm just worried about the glue contaminating the liquid, especially if it's something like whisky.
***** hello, I found that waterproof PVA is fine. There doesn't seem to be any problems.
if you are concerned with contamination etc, you can use a food grade epoxy.
Fantastic, I didn't even know that was a thing
Excellent job. Two questions: Which wood did you use and used something to seal on the inside or do not need?
Thank you. I used pine from a lumber yard (untreated, air dried) and no seal is required. Just make sure you rinse it out after use and store with the stopper left out.
Since i'm no expert on this, couldn't you coat the inside to make it waterproof so you could store water in it for longer?
use melted beeswax it is foodsafe and as long as you dont leave it in the arizona sun or pour boiling liquids in it, it will work great
that was wonderful brother.
but i want to ask about the rest of glue which is still inside the bottle .
?i mean does that not matter
because as you know even if the glue got dried an tough its gonna get back liquid again if it stays into the water for long . and that gonna make problem
thanks for this awesome clip
and i'm sorry about my simple English and i hope you understood what i meant
Thank you for your comment. The Glue is waterproof and non-toxic, there is very little 'squeeze' out inside the bottle. In my experience it really doesn't matter. Once the glue is set, it stays set. I hope that helps. All the best SF
im always wondering how to make wood products ressistent against water and bacteria, specially if its like a spoon or a wood bottle or something -.-
Great job. However, If I were in your place, I would have cut just two-thirds of the main plat and then get rid of the excess of remaining wood in the middle, so I have to cover only one side of the bottle with a separate piece of wood. Moreover, I would close the bottle by gluing the side at the end of the whole process so I could put a plastic bag inside the bottle to fill it with water instead of filling water inside the bottle itself. Otherwise, I would use natural tar extracted from trees to paint the bottle from the inside to minimize the side effect of the glue.
And good luck with your future projects.
Why not use burnt oak? Especially since you said it was for spirits.
Its a flask not n ageing barrel. No liquid should be kept in it for more than few days. However, if you wish to make one out of Burnt oak I can't see any issues with that, just make sure the edges that are glued are free from char. :)
If you made it out of oak and charred the inside prior to the glue up it would make and excellent mini cask for whiskey.
Was the inside water tight?