If you're looking to buy the paints or miniatures used in this video then check out Warlord Games using my affiliates link! store.warlordgames.com?aff=7
Great video, clear instructions and results look great. Only downside is that you use so many GW paints. 😩 As a historical gamer/modeller my collection of paints have nothing from GW beyond a couple of their washes.
I really wish you'd do something (literally anything lol) with the Vallejo Model Color Acrylic stuff, they have a line of paints named specifically for WW2 and they seem pretty spot on from what I've seen so far. Some pretty good paint quality as well, more of a mid-range price; but still cheaper than GW paints while being just as good if not better.
I can't belive what I'm just watching !! Yesterday i was going crazzy while searching after a Tutorial for German Greanaiders with Army painter paints. I Tried it out on my own but after seeing this I wish I would have weightet
Hey Pete, I got curious about one thing regarding the poncho liner on the Grenadier I know you did the tan side of it but I was curious as to how you could achieve the green tinted side.
My own personal challenge is to find ways to paint a model using as few colors as possible. If I can do all the base coats with 8 colors or less it's good - and sometimes one highlight color can be used to highlight several other colors. If you've got the right paints you can do a Grenadier in 7 colors plus the wash and a couple highlight colors - so about half of the total above.
Love your tutorials, TWG! I one were going to put decals on the figures (unit patches, rank insignia, etc...) at what point would you do it? Before the wash, or after all was said and done? If the latter, would you do any additional weathering or tint on the decal? I noticed on one of your tank tutorials that decals came before the weathering, which has worked out really well for me, but I was wondering how effective that was on the soldiers? Thanks!
It really depends, if my miniature is quite 'clean' in it's appearance I would probably apply them last but if you wanted a slightly more grittier appearance then applying them before any washes would be the way to go.
I understand that this is an old question, but I do believe it deserves an answer, if only for those who come by later. I would say “yes.” I love W40K, but the prices can be most prohibitive. A squad of guardsmen is $30 for ten right now. A squad of German Grenadiers is $45 for thirty. I also think BA’s rules are smoother and their stats much more concise. I also like how BA bypasses the whole “I go for about thirty minutes while you do nothing and then we switch” situation with it’s turn system (put one die in the “dice cup” per unit in your army, players take turns pulling dice from the cup and whoever’s color die it is goes). Additionally, Warlord (the company behind Bolt Action as well as other lines) actually provides deals quite consistently (some are even on top of their boxes sets that are already great value) and their site feels more user friendly (painting videos are often linked, there are more sorting options, etc.). Now, a complaint that I do have is that some set descriptions are unsatisfactory, but I only started having such standards after looking at sets on their site that had list descriptions and painting guides. I enjoy the W40K universe and quite a few of their models, but Games Workshop makes that difficult for me to really play out.
Nice video! I was thinking of applying the same metod for my FOW germans, this will help me a lot. Have you maybe tried using Green tone insted of Dark tone on Feldgrau uniforms? If not, what do you think will it work maybe?
I have tried it before an it works fairly well, it gives the uniform a more greenish hue (obviously) but that's still in keeping with some historical varieties of Feld Grau.
Great tutorial! Love how the model looks at the end. May I ask what CITADEL color should I use instead the field grey that is used on the begining? It looks more like green to me than gray :P.
No, it is usually harder. Perhaps some subassemblies to make it easier to access certain areas, but be sure to scrape the areas where the parts will join - a glue bond of paint on paint is weak and will break easily. And don't be one of those lunatics who paints on the sprue - you'll have mold lines and sprue marks and it'll look half-assed and save no time.
I just ordered every color of army painter that you've used in this tutorial. The problem I have is that the field gray you use looks green and the field gray I ordered looks gray on the bottle. Same with cultist robe. Yours looks deep green and the bottle I ordered looks gray. I'm hoping they didn't change up the colors.
Hi I have a question: I'm using Uniform Gray as a primer, however the thing I'm worried about is that the model itself is already gray. So it makes it a little difficult knowing how much primer I put on until it's too late, as I accidentally oversprayed a few of my models. How do you get around this?
I wouldn't say harsh, Bolt Action is generally a stylised version of WW2. Many weapons and uniforms aren't always 100% accurate and that's not to mention the 'heroic' style (larger heads and hands) of the miniatures. If you can't forgive weapons being painted with a dulled silver rather than black then I would imagine that these other historical inconsistencies wouldn't sit well with you either. Besides, the metal areas on the antique WW2 weaponry that I have inspected often have a dark metallic appearance, I can't say I've ever come across one which is completely Matt Black.
So why go to the bother of trying to replicate the colours of the uniforms, why don't we just paint the figures red or blue, and forget all the detail put into the models, you could just call it an "historical inconsistency"
If you're looking to buy the paints or miniatures used in this video then check out Warlord Games using my affiliates link!
store.warlordgames.com?aff=7
Saved your affiliate link for the net time I place an order with Warlord.
Great video, clear instructions and results look great.
Only downside is that you use so many GW paints. 😩
As a historical gamer/modeller my collection of paints have nothing from GW beyond a couple of their washes.
@@CS-zn6pp all the paints used in this video are Army Painter, not Games Workshop 🙂
I really wish you'd do something (literally anything lol) with the Vallejo Model Color Acrylic stuff, they have a line of paints named specifically for WW2 and they seem pretty spot on from what I've seen so far. Some pretty good paint quality as well, more of a mid-range price; but still cheaper than GW paints while being just as good if not better.
I've not really made use of any Vallejo stuff unfortunately but I'll keep it in mind for the future :D
I can't belive what I'm just watching !!
Yesterday i was going crazzy while searching after a Tutorial for German Greanaiders with Army painter paints. I
Tried it out on my own but after seeing this I wish I would have weightet
You'll just have to buy some more I suppose :P
Funny, i just started painting these yesterday too.
😂
Great tutorial. I got hold of 10 Grenadiers & was able to replicate relatively well with only my own poor panting skill getting in the way.
I learned about using a dark tone wash in metal. The camo design too.
Love the way you have videoed this with the black background to ensure a focus on the figure.
cool I just got a set of grenadiers in the mail. This will help me a lot for painting them thank you.
Perfect timing then!
this was just the painting tutorial I needed. thanks!
You're welcome!
10/10 WW2 USMC next please.
USMC won't be the next tutorial but there is already a Marine assembled and primed on my painting table....
Cant upvote this enough! NO ONE has done an army painter tutorial, even warlord has nothing
The War Gamer Would you do one on Late and Early war Fallschirmjägers?
Used this video to paint my first ever minis and it's been a breeze following you step by step. Nice videos! 👍🏻👍🏻
Great to hear!
Would you consider revisiting your bolt action videos with the new fanatic range from Army Painter?
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
I Couldn't wait for this tutorial when you released the Heer painting tutorial.
Keep it up!
Hey Pete, I got curious about one thing regarding the poncho liner on the Grenadier I know you did the tan side of it but I was curious as to how you could achieve the green tinted side.
Awesome. MUCH better than your previous guide on WW2 germans :D
these are the guys you have.
So. Many. Paints. :o Thanks for the info!
My own personal challenge is to find ways to paint a model using as few colors as possible. If I can do all the base coats with 8 colors or less it's good - and sometimes one highlight color can be used to highlight several other colors. If you've got the right paints you can do a Grenadier in 7 colors plus the wash and a couple highlight colors - so about half of the total above.
Great tutorial dude
Great Job
Another very interesting and helpful video. Thanks for sharing.
Great job,nice colour scheme!
If you could it would be awesome to see what you could do with the Konflikt 47 Zeus kit
so nice
Great job! I jus ordered these guys this video is gonna help alot! Thanks
An effective method - well done.
i confused this game with flames of war and was surprised to see how small flames of war minis are! these are more my style..
I can understand the confusion!
Hey Pete, first of all awesome job!!!! But can you tell me where you got the mini? Company?
These are figures from the wargame BOLT ACTION by Warlord games.
Great job, could you do a tutorial about basing???
awesome
What paints are equivalent from Vallejo?
Love it, thx for taking the time to do these.
No problem, thanks for the comment.
Great paint!
Hi, is there a mistake in the paints or am I mistaken, the gas canister is green but cultist robe is a brown/grey colour?
excellent tutorial as usual mate !
Late war waffen ss tutorial plz i really want to make them look good
It looks great!
Does anyone here know any substitute i can use for the dark tone ink?
Brilliant!
Thank you sir!!!!
Excellent tutorial, keep up the amazing work.
Do you mind giving me the basing materials you used? The base looks great.
I used the following techniques: th-cam.com/video/W7jyFzK2w7M/w-d-xo.html
I would love to see you do some Peadot Camo (Erbsenmuster) on late war Germans (Preferably FallschirmJager)
Pea dot will be the next camouflage I will be covering :)
Awesome!! can not wait
Love your tutorials, TWG! I one were going to put decals on the figures (unit patches, rank insignia, etc...) at what point would you do it? Before the wash, or after all was said and done? If the latter, would you do any additional weathering or tint on the decal? I noticed on one of your tank tutorials that decals came before the weathering, which has worked out really well for me, but I was wondering how effective that was on the soldiers? Thanks!
It really depends, if my miniature is quite 'clean' in it's appearance I would probably apply them last but if you wanted a slightly more grittier appearance then applying them before any washes would be the way to go.
Could this work in 15mm miniatures?
These videos are awesome
nice work keep them coming
i'm currently interested mainly in wh40k, but is Bolt Action a good alternative games to play?
I understand that this is an old question, but I do believe it deserves an answer, if only for those who come by later.
I would say “yes.” I love W40K, but the prices can be most prohibitive. A squad of guardsmen is $30 for ten right now. A squad of German Grenadiers is $45 for thirty. I also think BA’s rules are smoother and their stats much more concise. I also like how BA bypasses the whole “I go for about thirty minutes while you do nothing and then we switch” situation with it’s turn system (put one die in the “dice cup” per unit in your army, players take turns pulling dice from the cup and whoever’s color die it is goes). Additionally, Warlord (the company behind Bolt Action as well as other lines) actually provides deals quite consistently (some are even on top of their boxes sets that are already great value) and their site feels more user friendly (painting videos are often linked, there are more sorting options, etc.). Now, a complaint that I do have is that some set descriptions are unsatisfactory, but I only started having such standards after looking at sets on their site that had list descriptions and painting guides.
I enjoy the W40K universe and quite a few of their models, but Games Workshop makes that difficult for me to really play out.
Amazing ! Do you know what Vallejo color I have to use instead ? thanks !
Unfortunately I don't use Vallejo so I wouldn't know the equivalents, sorry :(
Very helpful!
Do Army Painter make a Field Grey spray primer? I can’t seem to see it. Is it the Vallejo one you used?
excellent
As always well done:)
What Brand of Paint and brushes you use
Nice video! I was thinking of applying the same metod for my FOW germans, this will help me a lot.
Have you maybe tried using Green tone insted of Dark tone on Feldgrau uniforms? If not, what do you think will it work maybe?
I have tried it before an it works fairly well, it gives the uniform a more greenish hue (obviously) but that's still in keeping with some historical varieties of Feld Grau.
Great videos
How would you paint late war Sturmpioniere? Something similar?
Yep! Their uniform would be the same as these guys.
@@PeteTheWargamer thank you very much :)
Great informational video. Sorry if I missed but what did you use to primer these with?
These particular ones would have been primed with a grey acrylic car primer if I recall correctly.
Nice tutorial ;)
Very nice tutorial as always . Do you think it'd be possible to do some Napoleonic tutorials in your painting style ? :-)
It's not something I've really considered as I don't collect or game with miniatures from that era. However I will keep it in mind for the future.
The War Gamer i got my paint set from war lord games and i do not get 'dark tone ink' shall i just buy i seprate or can i do somthing about it
Great tutorial! Love how the model looks at the end.
May I ask what CITADEL color should I use instead the field grey that is used on the begining? It looks more like green to me than gray :P.
It won't be exact, but try skavenblight dinge or stormvermin fur.
You may want to try a mix of Dawnstone (or some other grey) and Death Guard Green?
Stormvermin Fur is perfect, if you want a something that leans more toward the grey end of the “field grey” spectrum.
Quick noob question? Is it not easier to not assemble the figure before painting ?
No, it is usually harder. Perhaps some subassemblies to make it easier to access certain areas, but be sure to scrape the areas where the parts will join - a glue bond of paint on paint is weak and will break easily.
And don't be one of those lunatics who paints on the sprue - you'll have mold lines and sprue marks and it'll look half-assed and save no time.
I just ordered every color of army painter that you've used in this tutorial. The problem I have is that the field gray you use looks green and the field gray I ordered looks gray on the bottle. Same with cultist robe. Yours looks deep green and the bottle I ordered looks gray. I'm hoping they didn't change up the colors.
It might be a trick of the light. Field grey is supposed to be both green and grey and also neither of those colors.
I don't have Vallejo paints so what color would be close to Field Gray in Citedal paints?
Dawnstone mixed with Death Guard Green,
Hi I have a question: I'm using Uniform Gray as a primer, however the thing I'm worried about is that the model itself is already gray. So it makes it a little difficult knowing how much primer I put on until it's too late, as I accidentally oversprayed a few of my models. How do you get around this?
Might try a darker grey like mechanicus gray. I find this worked great for my grenadiers.
How did you make the base?
This should help you out: th-cam.com/video/zYIQi-M0es0/w-d-xo.html
What brushes do you use?
ASMR
Are you using Vallejo?
Nope army painter, I mention that I'm using them at the start of the video 😉
I recognize some of these colors but what brand did you use for your paints?
These are all from the Army Painter range :)
While your paint work is excellent, that figures "zeltbahn" is modeled TERRIBLY.
The "sleeves" of the zelt should'nt p\be bunched at the shoulders.
I hate people painting guns silver or gunmetal they are always black not silver for a reason !
Then Bolt Action in general probably isn't your thing.
Just becuse I point out a fact ! a little harsh
I wouldn't say harsh, Bolt Action is generally a stylised version of WW2. Many weapons and uniforms aren't always 100% accurate and that's not to mention the 'heroic' style (larger heads and hands) of the miniatures. If you can't forgive weapons being painted with a dulled silver rather than black then I would imagine that these other historical inconsistencies wouldn't sit well with you either.
Besides, the metal areas on the antique WW2 weaponry that I have inspected often have a dark metallic appearance, I can't say I've ever come across one which is completely Matt Black.
So why go to the bother of trying to replicate the colours of the uniforms, why don't we just paint the figures red or blue, and forget all the detail put into the models, you could just call it an "historical inconsistency"
You can paint your miniatures whatever colour you like, there are no laws against it. Although some people seem to think there is..