They are the same as any other trowel you hold it at 30 or 45 deg you will be picking up material hold it at 10 to 15 deg you will be loosing material you will get a custom or your new toys have fun . I hope it helped . But you should know this any way . Once again have fun love your videos keep pumping them. Hi from Australia
I too was impressed with large boards you used ,I hope I don't need them ever. Closed captioning was a big help, the terms is all new too me ,but I will watch more and probably have to re watch a few since I found cc button ,I don't know if you will send me a list though on covering my floor in Pro-line ,just wanted it to come out fairly well just to roll out floor and maybe spray top edges and console probably leave floor in a semi-ruff so not to slip, maybe a hint to point me in right direction would be fantastic also. thanks and enjoyed it ,Jim .
Q: How is faring compound different from plastic automotive filler? As someone who has used large floats and trowels to finish concrete, my best advice when using that long trowel would be to work from the center of the radius outward. That way, the excess material naturally works it's way onto the area that you are going to trowel next. I say the "center of the radius" because your arm will inevitably follow an arc around your body (its pivot point) and centrifugal force will push the material away from center, allowing you to use that material on the next (further away) pass. In the case of filling relatively flat surfaces, longer is better. Lookin' good though! Wish I had the funds to support your endeavor and hope I never have to use anything I have learned from you on my own boat! lol
Great job, having been in this situation a few times myself, I expected much more labor, sore elbows and maybe a few curse words too.... you made a tuff job it look easy! .... I do the same with PVA, it can be a quick n easy sanding guide coat. .. You get an A+ or 100% from me on this video, NOBODY gets a perfect score from me but me... so I take my hat off to you! ... Great Job, Andy! ! !
I’m about to fair my dinghy hull with a west solution fibre glass gel coat with a fairing compound added. I’m going to be doing this over an epicure wood primer. Should I give this a mechanical key using 60 grit or will it chemically bond with the primer?
Love the videos. There is something just serene about watching you work. Not sure if it's just me, but I find that I have to crank up my audio volume to be able to listen to your videos. Anyways, thanks for the content. Looking forward to the next one! :)
I'll look over the settings on my mixer to see if I can bump it up a bit. It's a balancing act between having enough volume and too much sensitivity (handling noise :-)
@@boatworkstoday Thanks Andy! I figured it's just me as I didn't see anyone else ever say anything about it, and I have no issue with turning up my volume. I just thought maybe it might be an issue that you should be aware of.
Ever try knocking off the sharp corners on those types of trowels? You'll see a lot of plasterers do that when they buy new ones. They take a grinder or sander and lightly round off the corners and that greatly helps reduce that streaking you get at each side of the trowel when laying down any type of compound, especially with large trowels and large areas.
I'll try and remember to show them in more detail next week, but the edges are already rounded and bent up a bit to minimize digging (hopefully that makes sense lol ;-)
My boat is painted with epoxy gel coat. I want to fill some divots and holes with fairing compound, then re-paint in more epoxy gelcoat. Can I use a polyester fairing compound? or should I just pay up and use epoxy fairing compound! the main area I want to touch up is above the waterline.
Do you ever use any two-pack high-build spray fillers? In automotive restoration, these are used quite a bit and can build up to 1/4 in one application. Never seen any pinholes and they sand great. Also, no smoothing required as they are self leveling.... Evercoat Slick Sand is one product I've used in the past, a lot of show cars use this product.
I have a of question: why do you need the pva if you are going to put a fill coat over it? If you don't use the pva won't you save some work (no need to wash it off and no need to sand and it will give a chemical bond instead of a mechanical bond? (I don't have much experience working with resin and fiberglass in boats but I do have some experience with surfboards where there is a laminating step and a sanding coat with wax added. Just trying to understand the different requirements. Thanks
I think on this job I would have used a grinder to round off one corner of the trowel so it would fit into the edge. You could smooth from edge out. Why did you put on the white gel coat over the glass? Then sand then fair? It seems that going to Faring from the glass would be less steps??
Andy, do you have a video on adhering tops of a boat back onto the hull. I have a Laser sailboat that needs this done. Looking to find the best product and process.
FYI- Interlux 202 can’t be sold/purchased in California, due to environmental regs. Unless you can recommend something else, I guess acetone or alcohol are our prime choices for wash down here in the “golden state”.
Find a local automotive paint supplier. They will have a "prep wash", or a "Wax & Grease Remover". When I was working in an industrial painting facility, we used a lot of Grow Automotive #1705 Super Klean Wax, Grease& Silicone Remover. (We were painting fiberglass parts heavily contaminated with Silicone). You can also find it on Amazon, and they will ship it to California, so I assume it still meets the regs.
Most automotive stuff is polyester based while marine faring tends to be epoxy based. Not always, but typically which makes epoxy based materials better suited for marine applications :-)
Thank you so much for your videos! They have been a huge help. If I am laying down a layer of 24 oz fabric over bare epoxy with epoxy resin do I need to let it fully cure and sand it or can I just fair it when it stops thumb printing?
what is the purpose of this faring step what does it do ? and can you use this totalfair stuff in automotive as for body filler bondo and primer it and clear coat ? intersting ?
Hi Andy, Consider making a video to review the merits of the various fairing and sanding boards. I am especially interested in your feelings about the flexisander products. They look really good. How good are they?
great job Andy quick question how many layers of fiberglass on a floor of a 1972 Thompson I'm redoing it I'm gonna put 3/4 marine ply and would u only do the sides or middle too? thanks for your time
More or less, except epoxy would not be used if intending to topcoat with gelcoat; poly based products would need to be used to ensure proper bonding :-)
Hi Tony, it really depends on the size of the batch. Thick mixes will tighten up much faster than thinner ones but with the size mixes shown in this video I had no issues working it for at least 20-30 minutes. After that it started to get a little stiff to work with ;-)
I knew the first coat was not going to be enough to completely fair it in, so going at it with a DA and 60 grit is much faster. Would rather spend the time longboarding when I know there's enough material there to work with ;-)
Did you say in a previous video about this boat that the boat is going to be your personal boat when you are done with it? I thought I heard you say that in a previous video. Keep up the great content :D
BoatworksToday gotcha. Well I hope in the short time it is yours, your family and yourself have some wonderful times on it out on the lake. Keep up the great content, I have learned a lot for my boatbuilding project from your channel. Thank you 😊
What is the working time for the Totalfair? I seem to always run out of time and waste some of the stuff I've used. Good vid - is that the same Makita still going strong after almost 15 years now? Wow!
it really depends on the size of the batch. Thick mixes will tighten up much faster than thinner ones but with the size mixes shown in this video I had no issues working it for at least 20-30 minutes. After that it started to get a little stiff to work with ;-)
How happy are you with the total build up of fairing compound? seems to me that the coats were heavy. Typically I like tighter coats so the total build is minimal. It is hard to tell from the vid. so I may be out to lunch on this comment.
Personally I love this compound. Not sure how well it came across on video but the first coat varied from 1/16" to maybe 1/8 tops. The second was more or less a skim coat mostly filling in the imperfections of the surface. After sanding I'd be surprised if there's more than an 1/8" left in the thickest spots.
@@boatworkstoday You mentioned you liked this compound because it didn't have the bubbling issues of other compounds. Did it perform to your expectations in this application?
Nice video, Andy! It appeared that you simply "eye-balled" the 1:1 ratio on the TotalFair (and TotalBoat seems to show the same in their video). Is it less sensitive to ratios than regular epoxy?
It's pretty forgiving material to work with. Do a small batch accurately and take note of the mixed color, then carry that 'color' over to larger batches ;-) You'll be good to go!
@@boatworkstoday I've been looking for project boats, and there don't seem to be any older catamarans. Are they recent additions? Do people just keep them forever?
Sooo I got a question Andy. On another video there was a guy looked like a supplier that said polyester resin wouldn't stick to old poly that my boat was made out of, said it might last 3 years then I'd have to redo it. I have an 83 sport craft that I need to do some repairs on. Like the cuddie cabin roof. So is this dude wrong cause now I'm worried
Dumb question: does the PBA tend to clog sanding discs or is it just another layer to sand down? I ask because my impression of it is that it's sort of plasticy...
@@boatworkstoday I did a total reno on a centerboard model,last summer.200 hours into scraping grinding and painting,I was convinced it was 20 hours of work.
My problem is that as I watch more of your videos I start thinking I should keep putting off my first time restoration of a 66 BW that I inherited in order to learn more. Spidercracked, stress cracks, holes, gouges, bottom blister, and other assorted bruises. Once upon a time I thought I knew what I needed to do, but each time you put out one of these videos I learn something else, see a new tool or product, and find myself thinking I have to put this off a while longer while you show me more. At some point the real work will have to start and I hope I will have learned enough not to muck it up!
@@boatworkstoday I sure hope so. As soon as the weather warms up a bit in CO I'll start grinding off the old and prepping for the new. Meanwhile, I will keep watching your vids because you do a wonderful job of explaining and showing techniques.
We like TotalFair on our small projects, it has a short drying time so we can get back to fun faster. It also comes in smaller tubs for our smaller restorations. We mix it until we don't see the blue or yellow anymore. Used some recently on our Super Sailfish: th-cam.com/video/9dDqWIxtF0I/w-d-xo.html
Does the 'fairing' act like bondo on a car? Rule for bondo cant be more than 1/4in thick of bondo or it will crack. Is this the same say if you had to build up one side a little more than the other would you use this or build it up with fiberglass before this stage? P.s great channel becoming one of my favorites as i am trying to learn more about this hobby
I always try and keep the thickness of the fairing to a minimum; somewhere around 1/8" give or take. As far as how thick this stuff can be laid up, I don't know. Would be a good question for the TB tech support :-)
I'm afraid that you'll still see ads there as well as the video's are embedded from TH-cam :-/ About the only way I know of to avoid ads all together is to sign up for my Patreon (even a $3 level gets you ad-free versions of the vids). Not trying to talk you into it, just throwing it out there!
I Love this channel you have taught me a lot but I did not like the add that popped up about impeaching Trump. I think politics should not be in you tube channels and I am wondering did you approve this add.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
I never get tired of hearing your daughter saying: Production ;-) Makes me realy smile....
They are the same as any other trowel you hold it at 30 or 45 deg you will be picking up material hold it at 10 to 15 deg you will be loosing material you will get a custom or your new toys have fun . I hope it helped . But you should know this any way . Once again have fun love your videos keep pumping them. Hi from Australia
I too was impressed with large boards you used ,I hope I don't need them ever. Closed captioning was a big help, the terms is all new too me ,but I will watch more and probably have to re watch a few since I found cc button ,I don't know if you will send me a list though on covering my floor in Pro-line ,just wanted it to come out fairly well just to roll out floor and maybe spray top edges and console probably leave floor in a semi-ruff so not to slip, maybe a hint to point me in right direction would be fantastic also. thanks and enjoyed it ,Jim .
Glad to see the new toys working
Sure fun to watch a pro learn a new tool and be so very pleased with the result.
Q: How is faring compound different from plastic automotive filler? As someone who has used large floats and trowels to finish concrete, my best advice when using that long trowel would be to work from the center of the radius outward. That way, the excess material naturally works it's way onto the area that you are going to trowel next. I say the "center of the radius" because your arm will inevitably follow an arc around your body (its pivot point) and centrifugal force will push the material away from center, allowing you to use that material on the next (further away) pass. In the case of filling relatively flat surfaces, longer is better. Lookin' good though! Wish I had the funds to support your endeavor and hope I never have to use anything I have learned from you on my own boat! lol
The announcer at the end is a nice touch. 🤗
She's my little girl ;-)! Not so little anymore, turning 9 in a couple days :-/
You love that belt sander!!
Andy, you do amazing work. If I lived near you I would work for you for free just to learn the trade by an obvious craftsman. Well done, sir.
Great job, having been in this situation a few times myself, I expected much more labor, sore elbows and maybe a few curse words too.... you made a tuff job it look easy! .... I do the same with PVA, it can be a quick n easy sanding guide coat. .. You get an A+ or 100% from me on this video, NOBODY gets a perfect score from me but me... so I take my hat off to you! ... Great Job, Andy! ! !
Mr Roach, thank you ;-) There's a reason I had voice overs and music lol!! Appreciate the kind words ;-)
Thanks Andy. Once again a great video.
Nicely done and some great comments from the gallery
This just fascinates the crap out of me.
Hi Andy, I enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. I am currently building a small camper and plan to finish exterior with fiberglass.
Next time I get a project going I think I’ll try Totalfair. Thanks for the video.
Tks for ur vids
Good job!!! Nice trowling!
It might even lay down a little nicer if you take a shallower angle of attack with the blade in your final passes.
I’m about to fair my dinghy hull with a west solution fibre glass gel coat with a fairing compound added. I’m going to be doing this over an epicure wood primer. Should I give this a mechanical key using 60 grit or will it chemically bond with the primer?
Thanks for making the videos. I always learn a lot. Thank you Andy
Wow you did that just like a professional boat repair guy! Oh yeah you are a professional boat repair guy!! LOL. GREAT JOB
Love the videos. There is something just serene about watching you work. Not sure if it's just me, but I find that I have to crank up my audio volume to be able to listen to your videos. Anyways, thanks for the content. Looking forward to the next one! :)
I'll look over the settings on my mixer to see if I can bump it up a bit. It's a balancing act between having enough volume and too much sensitivity (handling noise :-)
@@boatworkstoday Thanks Andy! I figured it's just me as I didn't see anyone else ever say anything about it, and I have no issue with turning up my volume. I just thought maybe it might be an issue that you should be aware of.
FWIW Got no audio issues my end
What an American hero
I know some service guys that would giggle at your interpretation of what it takes to be a hero, American or otherwise.
thanks
Ever try knocking off the sharp corners on those types of trowels? You'll see a lot of plasterers do that when they buy new ones. They take a grinder or sander and lightly round off the corners and that greatly helps reduce that streaking you get at each side of the trowel when laying down any type of compound, especially with large trowels and large areas.
I'll try and remember to show them in more detail next week, but the edges are already rounded and bent up a bit to minimize digging (hopefully that makes sense lol ;-)
NICE! Flexi-Sander is ‘da bomb’.
Excellent video as always andy always look forward to them thank you so much!
My boat is painted with epoxy gel coat. I want to fill some divots and holes with fairing compound, then re-paint in more epoxy gelcoat. Can I use a polyester fairing compound? or should I just pay up and use epoxy fairing compound! the main area I want to touch up is above the waterline.
Thank you for the videos Andy! Great stuff for us weekend DIY’s!
Hey Andy what kind of vacuuming disc sander are you using first? Is it a dust shroud on an angle grinder??
Great video Andy as always. Cant wait to here what you have to say about Alexseal when you return from your trip.
Does Total Fair have a longer working time that Automotive body filler?
Do you ever use any two-pack high-build spray fillers? In automotive restoration, these are used quite a bit and can build up to 1/4 in one application. Never seen any pinholes and they sand great. Also, no smoothing required as they are self leveling.... Evercoat Slick Sand is one product I've used in the past, a lot of show cars use this product.
I have a of question: why do you need the pva if you are going to put a fill coat over it? If you don't use the pva won't you save some work (no need to wash it off and no need to sand and it will give a chemical bond instead of a mechanical bond? (I don't have much experience working with resin and fiberglass in boats but I do have some experience with surfboards where there is a laminating step and a sanding coat with wax added.
Just trying to understand the different requirements.
Thanks
PVA allows the resin to fully harden. Without it laying down fairing coat would be a pain. (Plus there might be chemical compatibility problems.)
Awesome stuff as usual Andy!
Really appreciate your content bud! Thank you. Corey Kelowna B.C. Canada
hi andy-----great video-----you mentioned initial sanding with 60 paper----was the fairing compound sanded with 60 paper too------- thanks
I think on this job I would have used a grinder to round off one corner of the trowel so it would fit into the edge. You could smooth from edge out.
Why did you put on the white gel coat over the glass? Then sand then fair?
It seems that going to Faring from the glass would be less steps??
what name brand, model sander and type are you using that has the vacuum?
is that an orbital sander or rotating sander with the vacuum?
have you ever gel coated over that fairing compound?
Andy, do you have a video on adhering tops of a boat back onto the hull. I have a Laser sailboat that needs this done. Looking to find the best product and process.
FYI- Interlux 202 can’t be sold/purchased in California, due to environmental regs. Unless you can recommend something else, I guess acetone or alcohol are our prime choices for wash down here in the “golden state”.
That sounds like something I may need to brush up on? CA regs are much different than the rest of the states :-/
Find a local automotive paint supplier. They will have a "prep wash", or a "Wax & Grease Remover". When I was working in an industrial painting facility, we used a lot of Grow Automotive #1705 Super Klean Wax, Grease& Silicone Remover. (We were painting fiberglass parts heavily contaminated with Silicone). You can also find it on Amazon, and they will ship it to California, so I assume it still meets the regs.
You beat me to it using your flexi fairing tool! I'm glad you did so I can see how it's done between you and Sail Life. Thanks!
So what is the difference between fairing compounds and automotive bondo
Most automotive stuff is polyester based while marine faring tends to be epoxy based. Not always, but typically which makes epoxy based materials better suited for marine applications :-)
@@boatworkstoday so this is why they are more expensive than bondo makes sense
The filler material in bondo is talc and absorbs water. Not a good thing below the waterline.
BoatworksToday what made you choose the total boat compound vs west 407?
I was going to ask the same question.
Why does the fairing compound go on top of the gel coat? Why not gel coat on top?
Thank you so much for your videos! They have been a huge help. If I am laying down a layer of 24 oz fabric over bare epoxy with epoxy resin do I need to let it fully cure and sand it or can I just fair it when it stops thumb printing?
what is the purpose of this faring step what does it do ? and can you use this totalfair stuff in automotive as for body filler bondo and primer it and clear coat ? intersting ?
Hi Andy, Consider making a video to review the merits of the various fairing and sanding boards. I am especially interested in your feelings about the flexisander products. They look really good. How good are they?
So far very happy with them! My shoulders don't give them as cheery of a review but they get the job done very efficiently!
Do you reuse sanded green putty dust again as filler for epoxy?
great job Andy quick question how many layers of fiberglass on a floor of a 1972 Thompson I'm redoing it I'm gonna put 3/4 marine ply and would u only do the sides or middle too? thanks for your time
So what was the point in the PVA coat you put on then sanded off? ps love the edge tracking shot!!
This allowed the Poly resin to Cure.
what is the orbital sander you are using? cheaper than a Festool.
Great video. Would the process be the same if finishing with a textured gel coat or diamond skid?
More or less, except epoxy would not be used if intending to topcoat with gelcoat; poly based products would need to be used to ensure proper bonding :-)
Andy what's the pot life of the compound ? Say at 70 and 50% humidity ?
Hi Tony, it really depends on the size of the batch. Thick mixes will tighten up much faster than thinner ones but with the size mixes shown in this video I had no issues working it for at least 20-30 minutes. After that it started to get a little stiff to work with ;-)
What is the advantage of fairing the deck? Could you have just primed it painted it and used the non-skid? Thanks PM
I think I can smell it!
Use MIBK for solvent
Stop by on your way south to charleston , I’ll show you my carbon unibodies. Ya can teach me some more stuff.
Why did you gel coat, sand it off then cover with fairing compound? Why not just fair it?
4 -5 coats down to 2 is pretty darn spiffy.
and what, no more glorious, glorious sanding.
Safes a lot of time with the new doohickeys.
@@airgead5391
and the cost of compound, abrasives and solvent etc.
Question why not use a flexible long board after the first coat?
I knew the first coat was not going to be enough to completely fair it in, so going at it with a DA and 60 grit is much faster. Would rather spend the time longboarding when I know there's enough material there to work with ;-)
Do you use cobalt? Why? Tnx for the reply
Hi, Great video’s, what is the model of your little belt sander? Thanks Bob
th-cam.com/video/czaoO6Y4bsM/w-d-xo.html
Did you say in a previous video about this boat that the boat is going to be your personal boat when you are done with it? I thought I heard you say that in a previous video. Keep up the great content :D
It will be for a short time then I'm giving some serious thought to selling to pay off (or at least make a big dent) in the mortgage for the shop!
BoatworksToday gotcha. Well I hope in the short time it is yours, your family and yourself have some wonderful times on it out on the lake. Keep up the great content, I have learned a lot for my boatbuilding project from your channel. Thank you 😊
Can I use this product on bottom ?
What is the working time for the Totalfair? I seem to always run out of time and waste some of the stuff I've used. Good vid - is that the same Makita still going strong after almost 15 years now? Wow!
it really depends on the size of the batch. Thick mixes will tighten up much faster than thinner ones but with the size mixes shown in this video I had no issues working it for at least 20-30 minutes. After that it started to get a little stiff to work with ;-)
How happy are you with the total build up of fairing compound? seems to me that the coats were heavy. Typically I like tighter coats so the total build is minimal. It is hard to tell from the vid. so I may be out to lunch on this comment.
Personally I love this compound. Not sure how well it came across on video but the first coat varied from 1/16" to maybe 1/8 tops. The second was more or less a skim coat mostly filling in the imperfections of the surface. After sanding I'd be surprised if there's more than an 1/8" left in the thickest spots.
@@boatworkstoday You mentioned you liked this compound because it didn't have the bubbling issues of other compounds. Did it perform to your expectations in this application?
Nice video, Andy! It appeared that you simply "eye-balled" the 1:1 ratio on the TotalFair (and TotalBoat seems to show the same in their video). Is it less sensitive to ratios than regular epoxy?
It's pretty forgiving material to work with. Do a small batch accurately and take note of the mixed color, then carry that 'color' over to larger batches ;-) You'll be good to go!
Here's a weird question, do you ever see a sailing catamaran or any sort of multihull in the great lakes?
Of course ;-)! There are a few in local charter along the South Shore of the lake!
@@boatworkstoday I've been looking for project boats, and there don't seem to be any older catamarans. Are they recent additions? Do people just keep them forever?
No older ones here that I'm aware of, mostly new additions for the charter fleets
Check out Kijiji. Saw a few old cats in Ontario
Sooo I got a question Andy. On another video there was a guy looked like a supplier that said polyester resin wouldn't stick to old poly that my boat was made out of, said it might last 3 years then I'd have to redo it. I have an 83 sport craft that I need to do some repairs on. Like the cuddie cabin roof. So is this dude wrong cause now I'm worried
Dumb question: does the PBA tend to clog sanding discs or is it just another layer to sand down? I ask because my impression of it is that it's sort of plasticy...
sorry...PVA
No clogging at all. It's just a paper thin plastic layer that comes off very clean!
Hey Andy, great video. I love to watch you work and am learning so much from you. You are wicked fast, how did you develop your speed?
Hey Andy, What ever happened to the R19.?
Check out last weeks video, talked about it briefly there :-)
@@boatworkstoday I did a total reno on a centerboard model,last summer.200 hours into scraping grinding and painting,I was convinced it was 20 hours of work.
My problem is that as I watch more of your videos I start thinking I should keep putting off my first time restoration of a 66 BW that I inherited in order to learn more. Spidercracked, stress cracks, holes, gouges, bottom blister, and other assorted bruises. Once upon a time I thought I knew what I needed to do, but each time you put out one of these videos I learn something else, see a new tool or product, and find myself thinking I have to put this off a while longer while you show me more. At some point the real work will have to start and I hope I will have learned enough not to muck it up!
Hi Kurt! I'd get started asap, it's the best way to learn!! There's nothing you can do that can't be fixed ;-)!
@@boatworkstoday I sure hope so. As soon as the weather warms up a bit in CO I'll start grinding off the old and prepping for the new. Meanwhile, I will keep watching your vids because you do a wonderful job of explaining and showing techniques.
We like TotalFair on our small projects, it has a short drying time so we can get back to fun faster. It also comes in smaller tubs for our smaller restorations. We mix it until we don't see the blue or yellow anymore. Used some recently on our Super Sailfish: th-cam.com/video/9dDqWIxtF0I/w-d-xo.html
Did you wax those tools yet?
Not yet, but will do so before using again ;-)
large surfaces are difficult to cover in one pass but large curved surface even worse. You made it look all too easy.
5 coats of compound? Millimeters thick is all you need, to level the surface. That's all.
Does the 'fairing' act like bondo on a car? Rule for bondo cant be more than 1/4in thick of bondo or it will crack. Is this the same say if you had to build up one side a little more than the other would you use this or build it up with fiberglass before this stage? P.s great channel becoming one of my favorites as i am trying to learn more about this hobby
I always try and keep the thickness of the fairing to a minimum; somewhere around 1/8" give or take. As far as how thick this stuff can be laid up, I don't know. Would be a good question for the TB tech support :-)
If I have to build up more than that then I'll do the bulk of it with more glass, then fair ;-)
Camel green? lol. :-)
i bet you charge a ton of money to do this work... and you should charge a ton of money your work is quality...
TH-cam ran an ad from needtoimpeach.com during your video. You’ve lost me. I’ve unsubscribed. Bye. Enjoy your hate.
I have no control over what ads Google decides to display
Guess I’ll be going to boatworkstoday.com. Love your videos. Couldn’t take the full lobotomy ad that Google stuck in there. Sorry.
I'm afraid that you'll still see ads there as well as the video's are embedded from TH-cam :-/ About the only way I know of to avoid ads all together is to sign up for my Patreon (even a $3 level gets you ad-free versions of the vids). Not trying to talk you into it, just throwing it out there!
I Love this channel you have taught me a lot but I did not like the add that popped up about impeaching Trump. I think politics should not be in you tube channels and I am wondering did you approve this add.
That's not something I have any control over :-/ That's all Google (which own's TH-cam)
I have a TH-cam channel also and I get to pick the adds I want and so can you please look into it
Well, you know more about this that I do lol :-) I don't know where to do this