Zenith Super Duty AUTOPILOT (Ep74)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- I've started out today working on the Pitts. Then I moved on to the Zenith Super Duty autopilot servo. In this video I'm going to design and fabricate mounts for the servo. Let's get started!!
WIRING TOOLS (From Steinair.com:)
BUY THE WHOLE KIT: www.steinair.c...
Crimper for Dynon pins: www.steinair.c...
Racheting Crimper: www.steinair.c...
Terminal Die: www.steinair.c...
Molex Type Crimper: www.steinair.c...
Flush Cutters: www.steinair.c...
Wire Stripper: www.steinair.c...
OTHER PRODUCTS I'VE USED:
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Park Brake Clamp: www.aircraftsp...
Dynon D3: dynonavionics....
Tape: amzn.to/2TzU32s
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Dremel Flap Wheel: amzn.to/3ztmXle
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Air Hose Fittings: amzn.to/3iIf2dB
Paint Gun (works GREAT for smaller parts): amzn.to/3vqDgMa
Air Filter for Paint Gun: amzn.to/3iHhfX2
USB Data Port (for Dynon): amzn.to/3iLsiOL
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Fly Cutter (for fuel sender): amzn.to/3gvgXzO
#zenithsuperduty #kitplane #zenithaircraft
Looking forward to seeing how you connect your Autopilot to the flight controls and rig the installation.
Great job with the design of the supports. Keep in mind in the case of a jam, you want the loads to take the stiffest path back into primary structure (your support brackets should be sufficiently stiff hence the .050” thk selection but that means a larger bend radius).
Nice to see you plan your design on the white board and then make trial parts to prove the concept. Very well done 👏
Having been part of a full S1-S rebuild that's a lot of work.
Of course it is! So is building a kitplane.
Looks good man... my 650 had true trac auto pilot installed.. so when i redid my panel with garmin i pulled it all out... but i left all the mounts in the plane so when i get the garmin servos i should be all set to install pretty easy.. hopefully
It's the little things that count. Your attention to detail is showing in the finished work you do. Thanks for the care you take in producing the videos. Excellent job.
Instead of making two mirror-image mounts, make them the same as the one with the wires through it. That way, you will at least have good access to the bolts/screws on one side. Also, about going under Vs over the wires: if you do what you described to go over, it looks like you'll be giving some more leverage to the servo, but this will in turn require more throw/movement. Could that be a problem? Or maybe an advantage? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I did physics in highschool but that was so long ago the laws of physics might have changed since..! Nice work, as always.
I’m glad that you are giving us some content on the auto pilot install. Thanks, hopefully you will give more. I’m installing the same autopilot servos myself and love your ideas. I’m curious as to how to test the auto pilots functionality before getting into the air. If you have any thoughts it would be appreciated
Oh my the enormous amount of criteria to consider is beyond my comprehension.
I'm betting that this airplane responds well given minimal control input. I wonder what considerations are important in regard to servo movement increments in relation to control surface degrees of deflection. As always, my first question is always the same: Failure Mode Considerations. That said, I idealized a nearly completely autonomous control system. The trim control system alone would be fascinating to explore.
I fabricated and installed anti servo tabs and recall how rewarding it was on that particularly heavy handed airframe. It was impressive to me to discover how effective a relatively small tab can be .
Cheers
So, that aileron servo looks like a mega sized version of an r/c servo. They're (r/c) geared, but directly driven. When you manually move the control surfaces, you feel the resistance from the attached servo drivetrain. How do you connect that servo inline with your control surfaces, to where you can override, or have it disabled to manually fly it? I realize there are thousands of aircraft with a/p's, but have never looked into how they're installed.
My buddy has an RV6 with an O-320. He was having an ignition problem and he got the plugs tested turns out they all tested fine but several actually had a cracked insulator. Bottom line he replaced the plugs and it runs great. The cracks were very difficult to see.
You need a press brake to make that bend in the opposite direction. If you have a small hydraulic press you can easily make a rudimentary press brake.
Looking good.
Had a couple thoughts...
You mentioned a bracket to get the tie-rod above the cables. Just keep in mind, that that will change the geometry. You will have a longer arc the farther you get from the pivot point of the torque tube, and as such will require a longer horn on the servo to maintain the same travel of the ailerons.
It would take some modding but the aileron push-pull tubes look pretty stout. Adding a bracket to the tube to connect to the servo would solve some of the issues since you wouldn't have to go past the cables. Probably have to check with Zenith on that one. Another option could be to fab a bell-crank between the servo and the aileron torque tube to re-route tie-rod geometry.
On the servo mounting, will you be using nut-plates to mount the servo to the bracket? Looks like it would be cumbersome to use regular nuts bolts.
Thanks for the video!
Edit: Just re-watched some of the video and another option occurred to me... Another possibility is to rotate the servo 90° onto it's side with the horn vertical; up or down for best fit.
All good ideas....but, I didn't just throw the servo in and mount it. I tried many positions and orientations! Connecting the pushrod to the aileron tube was my first option, and I have another 'napkin drawing' of a bracket I designed to clamp on the tube so I don't have to worry about the cables. That's only an option if I can have my machinist friend actually make my bracket. I hate to ask him to make too many parts for me. Yes the .050 brackets will have nutplates so I'll be able to insert the 4 bolts from the cabin side of the bulkhead. I'm also making a drilling jig so I can get the positions of the holes on the bulkhead correct.
If your interested here is a link to a video I previously made on the servo location in my CruZer. th-cam.com/video/wsBuYl9EmUY/w-d-xo.html
Mark, isn't the bracket stronger with the bends BOTH to the inside?? With the bends opposite each other you would have about a 1 inch offset in the mount holes.
A vice and mallet would achieve that angle you want. Not the break.
Mark, if the servo is reversible why can't you mount it on the Pilots side and eliminate having to go over or under the cables you showed? And the servo arm would be that much closer to the Aileron horn.
The cables are the Samson the left and right side. I believe in the video, only 3 of the 4 cables are there.
Just put the brackets on the opposite ends then the mount holes are on the outside.
That won't work on the side with the wires.
@@KitplaneEnthusiast Ah.. I didn't notice that.
The Super Duty is being fitted with auto pilot?
* Like the control cables under a control rod: to remove the likelihood of frictional rubbing.
Pitts
* Why are the holes so big around the wing tension cable?
🎄🎆
Yes pitch and roll axis autopilot for the Super Duty. The holes are large in the Pitts because tools need to be inserted in there to connect the flying wires.
45 kts afraid of a little wind? Ha ha