Yes, you did squeeze out more oil than needed and you can't get it back in the tube. Not to worry. Glad to see oils in use for flesh tones. Using cardboard for soaking out excess linseed oil is ok but as a pallet you might end up with paper fibres in your paint, then on the model and grief to pick out. I transfer to a non-porous surface to mix and use. If you want to speed up the drying time of oils use a food dehydrator, overnight in one is equal to 3-4 days of room temp. Dehydrators go up to 104 degrees and safe for plastics. Thrift shops a good place to find. Cheers.
Looks good! Love the eyes! You can use Winsor & Newton Acrylic Flow Improver, along with their Acrylic Slow Drying Medium to get that oil paint-style blend out of acrylics. Both available through Dick Blick. BTW, I'm a huge fan of your cat. I have one that supervises me, too.--Cindi
You might have less lint if you use copier paper to wipe your brush rather than paper towel. The short coarse bristles tend to tear up paper towel. BTW did you say you used Burt sienna...
um, wait, Robin/Burt ward was actually wearing skin colored tights in the '66 series, so those CAN be a uniform color, unlike the arms or face, which you have to do all the flesh tone coloring.
Hello Dr. Faust. You seem to know a lot about the old Ral Partha and Citadel paints so I wondering if you could answer a question. It's a bit of a long shot, but I'm doing research on the original Citadel Colour paints and I was wondering if you or anyone you know would know what pigments were used in the discontinued Citadel "Titillating Pink" and "Hobgoblin Orange" from the 1980s boxed set or if any companies make an exact match for them. I can't seem to find a mild orange like the hobgoblin and of course I can't find a fluorescent pink like the titillating pink was. I've found excellent replacements for most of the other colors through Coat D'Arms, but their oranges are too saturated in color hue and so are too intense and not naturally tangerine/pumpkin enough and their pinks are not even close to the natural fluorescence of Titillating Pink. I suspect that Citadel's "Hobgoblin Orange" was just Ral Partha's "Goblin Flesh Tangerine" available in 1990 as item number 77-768 if that helps. Also as a tip for yourself using the later 1990s Citadel paint called “Elf Flesh” was a flesh color in the orangish range similar to maybe a slightly reddish naples yellow in tone, but color-wise like a cadmium red light (which is red-orange) mixed with white. Elf Flesh appears to be the same color as what is included in Reeves watercolor paints sets as “Flesh Tint”. The word “tint” in that case indicates white is mixed with a base color of some sort. To make it myself I tried a number of reds in the Reeves set with white and they all turned out too cool (pinkish). I also tried the orange in the set and that seemed to be much closer and would substitute pretty well, but the color saturation was a little high, but when I used the warmist yellow in the set called yellow deep and mixed it with white it came out pretty much perfect. But I have a feeling it’s just the warmest yellow or yellow ochre and white which is a common starting point for making flesh tones that I use a lot in oil painting. There are lots of options for a warm yellow or yellow orange in mainstream paint lines. So elf flesh shouldn’t be a problem to make yourself. Also the Coat D’Arms paint called “Flesh 213” is pretty darn close to it.
@@ThePaintingClinic Ah. Thank you for the quick reply and thank you anyway. I've decided to try the War Colour equivalents. I didn't know they made them, but they have a line that is supposed to be close to the old Citadel Colour line and they include the more obscure colours Ctiadel made including the ones I mentioned so I'll give them a chance. I wanted to try their regular paints out anyway so that works in my favour. Thank you again.
@@martinfanthom3870 I am just starting to branch out from oil washes and weathering to painting a whole army in oils, inspired by James. So far I am loving it. I have issues with my hands so using an air brush is painful for me, but oils allow that butter-smooth blending with a brush. Give it a try :)
I've been waiting for this build and now it's finally here. Awesome video
I just love how you always resolve to keep things basic and then... 20 layers and washes later...
for flesh -shadows- lights ,you can use acrilic artists inks ,with airbrush or brush.
Yes, you did squeeze out more oil than needed and you can't get it back in the tube. Not to worry. Glad to see oils in use for flesh tones. Using cardboard for soaking out excess linseed oil is ok but as a pallet you might end up with paper fibres in your paint, then on the model and grief to pick out. I transfer to a non-porous surface to mix and use. If you want to speed up the drying time of oils use a food dehydrator, overnight in one is equal to 3-4 days of room temp. Dehydrators go up to 104 degrees and safe for plastics. Thrift shops a good place to find. Cheers.
Looks good! Love the eyes! You can use Winsor & Newton Acrylic Flow Improver, along with their Acrylic Slow Drying Medium to get that oil paint-style blend out of acrylics. Both available through Dick Blick. BTW, I'm a huge fan of your cat. I have one that supervises me, too.--Cindi
You might want to look into sponges. You dab it on rather than brush it on. They leave a nice flat finish in an even color.
Khajit is innocent of these crimes!
You might have less lint if you use copier paper to wipe your brush rather than paper towel. The short coarse bristles tend to tear up paper towel. BTW did you say you used Burt sienna...
He said burnt, but it's close in American English, both kind of like boynt.
@@DrWhom Sorry, friend - it was a bad joke. The actor who played the character on television was Burt Ward.
@@triruns Yeah, I got that. I'm old - older than you can possibly imagine.
@@DrWhom 😀 I'm just old enough to remember seeing the tv show's original broadcasts.
The bristles are soft and I'm not worried about tearing. It was more an issue with Marvin fluff in the air.
um, wait, Robin/Burt ward was actually wearing skin colored tights in the '66 series, so those CAN be a uniform color, unlike the arms or face, which you have to do all the flesh tone coloring.
What's best thinning paint with white spirit or just straight from the tube, I'm doing 28mm figures
Hello Dr. Faust. You seem to know a lot about the old Ral Partha and Citadel paints so I wondering if you could answer a question. It's a bit of a long shot, but I'm doing research on the original Citadel Colour paints and I was wondering if you or anyone you know would know what pigments were used in the discontinued Citadel "Titillating Pink" and "Hobgoblin Orange" from the 1980s boxed set or if any companies make an exact match for them. I can't seem to find a mild orange like the hobgoblin and of course I can't find a fluorescent pink like the titillating pink was. I've found excellent replacements for most of the other colors through Coat D'Arms, but their oranges are too saturated in color hue and so are too intense and not naturally tangerine/pumpkin enough and their pinks are not even close to the natural fluorescence of Titillating Pink. I suspect that Citadel's "Hobgoblin Orange" was just Ral Partha's "Goblin Flesh Tangerine" available in 1990 as item number 77-768 if that helps. Also as a tip for yourself using the later 1990s Citadel paint called “Elf Flesh” was a flesh color in the orangish range similar to maybe a slightly reddish naples yellow in tone, but color-wise like a cadmium red light (which is red-orange) mixed with white. Elf Flesh appears to be the same color as what is included in Reeves watercolor paints sets as “Flesh Tint”. The word “tint” in that case indicates white is mixed with a base color of some sort. To make it myself I tried a number of reds in the Reeves set with white and they all turned out too cool (pinkish). I also tried the orange in the set and that seemed to be much closer and would substitute pretty well, but the color saturation was a little high, but when I used the warmist yellow in the set called yellow deep and mixed it with white it came out pretty much perfect. But I have a feeling it’s just the warmest yellow or yellow ochre and white which is a common starting point for making flesh tones that I use a lot in oil painting. There are lots of options for a warm yellow or yellow orange in mainstream paint lines. So elf flesh shouldn’t be a problem to make yourself. Also the Coat D’Arms paint called “Flesh 213” is pretty darn close to it.
I don't have a clue. I never used the original Citadel colors.
@@ThePaintingClinic Ah. Thank you for the quick reply and thank you anyway. I've decided to try the War Colour equivalents. I didn't know they made them, but they have a line that is supposed to be close to the old Citadel Colour line and they include the more obscure colours Ctiadel made including the ones I mentioned so I'll give them a chance. I wanted to try their regular paints out anyway so that works in my favour. Thank you again.
Do you use craft paint, I use arteza, pebeo or reeves what's best or how to thin an apply, is pouring medium any good or army paint flow improver
Didn't know you can use oil paint for models
Look up James Wappel, he uses oils for 28mm figures
@@bethanygraham427 hi do you use oils
@@martinfanthom3870 I am just starting to branch out from oil washes and weathering to painting a whole army in oils, inspired by James. So far I am loving it. I have issues with my hands so using an air brush is painful for me, but oils allow that butter-smooth blending with a brush. Give it a try :)
looking good thare yes see more as pst more same bat time same bat chanel
okay, never mind....
Not sure why, but that much naked leg on Robin makes me uncomfortable.
Do you have a dog? maybe the hair comes from it
Dude: 3:19
it was a joke dude, i saw the video first.