Hello High Fell, thank you for this idea. I need to try it. The expensive old hand uncoupler from Tillig is designed for the old BTTB/Zeuke couplings. In the GDR, the distances between the wagons were much larger than today. I don't know why they still sell them, probably nostalgia. This design is over sixty years old. You can find it in the 1964 catalog on page 22. If you're curious, just search for the berliner-tt-bahnen catalog 1963-64.
Thank you for the extra info 👍 I had always assumed it was for the new style coupling as it does work when there is space between stock. The new slim-line model I made is really easy to use and with practice you can very very precise. Great to have your contribution and thanks for watching 😁
Great idea ! I thought these TT couplings were quite a neat design overall, certainly an improvement over the ancient old BTTB couplings that I remember back when. Your tool certainly makes them the best option out there now.
Brilliant!. Made me think and I remembered I have quite a few mini fridge magnets 6mm x 1mm which I thought might work. As a test I blue tacked one flat onto the end of a drinking straw and held it above an end coupling to check if such a tiny magnet would work. Success so cut a slice off an old credit card and drilled a 6mm hole and fixed magnet into it. Perfect and being so thin fits easily between any coaches or wagons. Thanks for the inspiration.
No worries, glad you had the bits on hand. I think these couplings make much more sense with this style of uncoupling. Idea would probably work on tension lock type too.
I've been using a plastic cutlery knife to release from underneath. I didn't realise the couplings were metal, I thought they were all plastic. Your solution is far neater. I've got some self adhesive magnetic pads I can cut to size and stick to a suitable implement. Thanks.
If you had a small magnet you could pop it in the end of the stir/lollipop stick. Overhead uncoupling is really useful when you can’t access underside 👍
Another good one and do admire your integrity regarding the hobby in your description. I’d say though, you must monetize your channel when you can or another channel will simply copy your content, re-post it under their heading and as it gains momentum, you tube would then pick up on that version and promote it more, over yours, simply because they too make revenue. Your original content then becomes less seen on searches and may then fall into the wrong hands🙏 I’m all for creators being rewarded fairly, whilst against influencers being dressed up as these, in order to push a certain product or agenda and unfortunately the above practices do go on to mislead the consumer, even in this great hobby where younger people or busy adults may naturally be a little more impulsive or naive. This side of the hobby is growing too sadly👍
Usually most people see through those individuals. I don’t like the ads so if by not monetising the channel it reduces the ads subscribers/viewers get bombarded with I’d rather do that for them, the money is unlikely to ever amount to much here 🤣 It’s a different approach but I have a lot of people say they prefer less commercialism. It will be interesting to see how it works out. Thanks for the support too, I can’t compete on the editing and polished productions, it’s an iPhone and a stand and Video Up 👍
All that effort bought me a Duchess and a rake of 21t wagons, some unfitted still to come. The video production is a lot of work, even my wobbly efforts take hours and a few retakes. They are more new skills to me. I can’t remember how many hours I had in High Fell by time of the diorama challenge. The quayside surface alone around the track was around 30 hours with air drying clay. I left the pics of my dad’s model ship, Globe Trader, out of the competition pics, it didn’t seem fair. There are some in my gallery on the Hornby forum 😁 I love the bikers racing about Shiredale, I honestly thought that could clinch it for you
Great Idea which I’ll be copying so many thanks for this. Looks like you have a reverse loop and wondered how you did this & with what equipment? Can’t see a how to on your list of how 2’s 😉 and my proposed layout has a similar plan….. Any help or tips greatly appreciated. 👍
The magnetic uncoupler is a game changer 😁 and everything I publish is to be copied, amended and enjoyed. There are some more videos in the pipeline on 😉 but to get you going, reverse loop is dead easy, the viaduct section is the isolated section that forms the reversing part. It’s long enough to accommodate the longest trains but there is something I will share on a future video about this too. I tried a few Reverse Loop Modules but the best by far is the ‘Frog Juicer’ from Tam Valley, it’s an American design and can power frogs (on the points) or act as a RLM and has adjustable current levels which is very useful at preventing unwanted power drops or cut outs. It is intended to work with the traditional DCC ‘AC’ style track power.
Hi High Fell, many thanks for quick reply and I’ll look at this and look forward to your loop how 2 when it comes out. I’ve already nicked some of your ideas, and have a little airforce growing now after seeing your Hunters. So I got one Hunter, and a Jet Provost or 2, and also a couple of Vampires which will make a corner airfield scene over a tunnel. Fun liTTle hobby this isn’t it although definitely tests your eyes 👀 a lot in this scale huh?? 🙄
Thanks looks like you have given me the solutions for uncoupling, Hornby uncoupling ramp hasn't appeared here in Australia. I tried magnet couplers but don't work well for shunting. Your system looks good I be trying soon.
@@HighFell I bought four and have three unused. The one I fitted was reasonably easy to install though the diagram could have been clearer as to which way around one part went. The bar just didn't lift up enough to unhook the couplers reliably and it quickly became frustrating. If the bar is too high I suppose there is a danger of it catching on the coupling mechanisms. I have removed the one I installed so I can't give a detailed description of my problems, sorry. I hope other folk have had more success using this item as I want Hornby to succeed with this scale.
@WaterwaySongs no apologies needed, if they don’t work that well, it’s good to know. Maybe feedback to Hornby in case the manufacturing or design needs tweaking. Must admit I don’t like ramps, they are never wher you need them! 😁
Ooops 😊 forgot to say I’m using the HM7000 DCC Flying Scotsman power supply as my starting point.
Hello High Fell,
thank you for this idea. I need to try it.
The expensive old hand uncoupler from Tillig is designed for the old BTTB/Zeuke couplings. In the GDR, the distances between the wagons were much larger than today.
I don't know why they still sell them, probably nostalgia. This design is over sixty years old. You can find it in the 1964 catalog on page 22. If you're curious, just search for the berliner-tt-bahnen catalog 1963-64.
Thank you for the extra info 👍 I had always assumed it was for the new style coupling as it does work when there is space between stock. The new slim-line model I made is really easy to use and with practice you can very very precise. Great to have your contribution and thanks for watching 😁
Great idea ! I thought these TT couplings were quite a neat design overall, certainly an improvement over the ancient old BTTB couplings that I remember back when. Your tool certainly makes them the best option out there now.
Thank you. So easy to make, inexpensive and very useful for other things around the layout.
Great idea 👍🚂
Thanks, it makes the standard TT:120 coupling much more practical. 😁
Brilliant!. Made me think and I remembered I have quite a few mini fridge magnets 6mm x 1mm which I thought might work. As a test I blue tacked one flat onto the end of a drinking straw and held it above an end coupling to check if such a tiny magnet would work. Success so cut a slice off an old credit card and drilled a 6mm hole and fixed magnet into it. Perfect and being so thin fits easily between any coaches or wagons. Thanks for the inspiration.
No worries, glad you had the bits on hand. I think these couplings make much more sense with this style of uncoupling. Idea would probably work on tension lock type too.
Brilliant! I'll be making one of those.
Great to hear, best compliment a modeller can get 😁👍
I've been using a plastic cutlery knife to release from underneath. I didn't realise the couplings were metal, I thought they were all plastic. Your solution is far neater. I've got some self adhesive magnetic pads I can cut to size and stick to a suitable implement. Thanks.
I tried some fridge magnet material, Hopeless! But a decent thin magnet is just the ticket.
Nice :-) I am using wooden stir sticks, as Modeloco mentioned in one of the videos, but I need to push from the bottom
If you had a small magnet you could pop it in the end of the stir/lollipop stick. Overhead uncoupling is really useful when you can’t access underside 👍
Another good one and do admire your integrity regarding the hobby in your description. I’d say though, you must monetize your channel when you can or another channel will simply copy your content, re-post it under their heading and as it gains momentum, you tube would then pick up on that version and promote it more, over yours, simply because they too make revenue. Your original content then becomes less seen on searches and may then fall into the wrong hands🙏 I’m all for creators being rewarded fairly, whilst against influencers being dressed up as these, in order to push a certain product or agenda and unfortunately the above practices do go on to mislead the consumer, even in this great hobby where younger people or busy adults may naturally be a little more impulsive or naive. This side of the hobby is growing too sadly👍
Usually most people see through those individuals. I don’t like the ads so if by not monetising the channel it reduces the ads subscribers/viewers get bombarded with I’d rather do that for them, the money is unlikely to ever amount to much here 🤣 It’s a different approach but I have a lot of people say they prefer less commercialism. It will be interesting to see how it works out. Thanks for the support too, I can’t compete on the editing and polished productions, it’s an iPhone and a stand and Video Up 👍
All that effort bought me a Duchess and a rake of 21t wagons, some unfitted still to come. The video production is a lot of work, even my wobbly efforts take hours and a few retakes. They are more new skills to me. I can’t remember how many hours I had in High Fell by time of the diorama challenge. The quayside surface alone around the track was around 30 hours with air drying clay. I left the pics of my dad’s model ship, Globe Trader, out of the competition pics, it didn’t seem fair. There are some in my gallery on the Hornby forum 😁
I love the bikers racing about Shiredale, I honestly thought that could clinch it for you
Great Idea which I’ll be copying so many thanks for this. Looks like you have a reverse loop and wondered how you did this & with what equipment? Can’t see a how to on your list of how 2’s 😉 and my proposed layout has a similar plan….. Any help or tips greatly appreciated. 👍
The magnetic uncoupler is a game changer 😁 and everything I publish is to be copied, amended and enjoyed.
There are some more videos in the pipeline on 😉 but to get you going, reverse loop is dead easy, the viaduct section is the isolated section that forms the reversing part. It’s long enough to accommodate the longest trains but there is something I will share on a future video about this too. I tried a few Reverse Loop Modules but the best by far is the ‘Frog Juicer’ from Tam Valley, it’s an American design and can power frogs (on the points) or act as a RLM and has adjustable current levels which is very useful at preventing unwanted power drops or cut outs. It is intended to work with the traditional DCC ‘AC’ style track power.
Hi High Fell, many thanks for quick reply and I’ll look at this and look forward to your loop how 2 when it comes out. I’ve already nicked some of your ideas, and have a little airforce growing now after seeing your Hunters. So I got one Hunter, and a Jet Provost or 2, and also a couple of Vampires which will make a corner airfield scene over a tunnel. Fun liTTle hobby this isn’t it although definitely tests your eyes 👀 a lot in this scale huh?? 🙄
@@andywilliams4116 very good 🤣 I look forward to seeing how you get on 😁
Could have used this for my latest video 😝
Need to make another 😁👍👍
Thanks looks like you have given me the solutions for uncoupling, Hornby uncoupling ramp hasn't appeared here in Australia. I tried magnet couplers but don't work well for shunting. Your system looks good I be trying soon.
I find this way ideal for shunting operations and you are not fixed to set locations to have easy uncoupling. Hope you enjoy the results 😁
Don't waste your money on the uncoupling ramp if it ever ships to Australia. It is worse than useless IMO.
@@WaterwaySongs I haven’t used one, it sounds like you have and are not impressed. Technically it should work, any idea why it’s not?
@@HighFell I bought four and have three unused. The one I fitted was reasonably easy to install though the diagram could have been clearer as to which way around one part went. The bar just didn't lift up enough to unhook the couplers reliably and it quickly became frustrating. If the bar is too high I suppose there is a danger of it catching on the coupling mechanisms. I have removed the one I installed so I can't give a detailed description of my problems, sorry. I hope other folk have had more success using this item as I want Hornby to succeed with this scale.
@WaterwaySongs no apologies needed, if they don’t work that well, it’s good to know. Maybe feedback to Hornby in case the manufacturing or design needs tweaking. Must admit I don’t like ramps, they are never wher you need them! 😁
Just ordered magnets and spatulas from Amazon 😊
Awesome, it’s the future 😁👍
I failed to find 😞
@@GlibVideo amzn.eu/d/0iKPytp5
For the sculpting spatulas, set of 5 at The Works £2
@@HighFell Ow, I've found 10x2, I guess I've misheard, s I was searching for 10x1