Nicely done. That is an absolutely beautiful route; lots of features, steep and quite a bit of variety. Really efficient screw placements and nice consistent movement, super fun to watch. Definitely has me psyched to get out swingin' the tools. Thanks for the filming; that pole mounted camera really conveys the airy-ness of the climbing and highlights the texture of the ice.
Awesome climbing, just curious, do you pre plan your screw placements in advance or do you just climb until you feel the need to place one? You’re very efficient so I’d like to hear your thoughts
Great question! I always plan my placements and try to only place in restful positions. On long routes where I can’t plan every placement from the bottom, I’ll identify intermediate points from which I can analyze the rest of the route and plan my upcoming placements. With exceptions, I try to only lead what I could solo and view ‘not falling’ as my primary protection and my screws and rope as my secondary protection. As such, I often make choices that prioritize ‘not falling’ over placing more screws. This means that I end up running things out a bit but I’m generally not climbing things I’m not very confident on. There are of course exceptions to all of this, but generally if I start sewing it up its usually a good sign that I should be backing off the climb - be it from fatigue, or ice conditions, etc…
Nicely done. That is an absolutely beautiful route; lots of features, steep and quite a bit of variety. Really efficient screw placements and nice consistent movement, super fun to watch. Definitely has me psyched to get out swingin' the tools. Thanks for the filming; that pole mounted camera really conveys the airy-ness of the climbing and highlights the texture of the ice.
Thanks! It was a real treat to climb :)
Awesome climbing, just curious, do you pre plan your screw placements in advance or do you just climb until you feel the need to place one? You’re very efficient so I’d like to hear your thoughts
Great question! I always plan my placements and try to only place in restful positions. On long routes where I can’t plan every placement from the bottom, I’ll identify intermediate points from which I can analyze the rest of the route and plan my upcoming placements.
With exceptions, I try to only lead what I could solo and view ‘not falling’ as my primary protection and my screws and rope as my secondary protection. As such, I often make choices that prioritize ‘not falling’ over placing more screws. This means that I end up running things out a bit but I’m generally not climbing things I’m not very confident on.
There are of course exceptions to all of this, but generally if I start sewing it up its usually a good sign that I should be backing off the climb - be it from fatigue, or ice conditions, etc…
Can I ask what are you filming with ?
Anyone looking for a climbing partner?
Hell yes! I've only done Trap dike solo, would love to have someone to share rope duties with and buy some ice screws
@@jasonbennett2194 I have a full kit already.