My Renault Kangoo electric van (ZE22 or ZE33) is dead. How do I fix it and get it started?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2024
- This video is for owners of the Renault Kangoo ZE electric van and shows what to do if you find you can't unlock or start your electric van. The same principles are for any electric vehicle too. This covers the Renault Kangoo ZE22 with the 22kWh battery (2011-2016) and the Renault Kangoo ZE33 with the 33kWh battery (2017-2022).
If your electric van wont unlock with the keys, then it is either the battery in the key fob or the 12V battery under the bonnet that has gone flat. If the key will open the door using the key blade and then you can start the vehicle up, its the key fob battery that needs replacing. If you can't start the vehicle, then its likely the 12V battery has gone flat and needs charging or replacing. In an emergency, you can jump start it from another vehicle, just the same as in an ICE vehicle.
To replace the 12V battery in the Kangoo ZE van, see • How to replace the 12V...
For more Renault Kangoo ZE videos, see our playlist • Renault Kangoo ZE
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Chapters/timestamps
00:00 Introduction
00:29 Van is dead
02:08 It wont charge!
02:35 Option 1: Replace 12V battery
03:35 Option 2: Jump start
06:39 Option 3: Charge the 12V battery
16:45 Wrap up
#gogreenautos #evlearning #renaultkangoo #gogreenautosuk #electricvan #renaultkangooze - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Because most of EV owners' discussions are about traction batteries, we sometimes forget the importance of the 12V system and how much our cars still depend on it.
Yes and when it does go flat, it completely throws many EV owners. I probably get one call a week on this from owners who are desperate that their EV is dead and they don't know what to do. Hence why I'm making these videos.
@@GoGreenAutos My factory renault 12v battery came with a olfactory and visual warning system, Where it started smelling like eggs then let out all the magic smoke. Fortunately managed to disconnect it on the side of the road (FunFact The kangoo runs just fine without the batttery connected once the green go is on)
a long lasting low crank ev battery. very good idea. is there one available?
I have a kangoo ze 22kw and my 12v battery was dead but I put on my small car starter!
I drove the car 15km and stop att home! Then i have 13volt but it droped to 9v then i got a new battery from biltema!
12v 74amp! Now it is working great!
Brilliantly explained. Thanks
Thanks. Glad it was useful.
Great instructional video. Could you also use one of these booster packs you can get rather than use jump leads?
Yes I will do. You have to be careful with booster packs. On an EV, they really need to be in "constant 12V mode" rather than "boost mode". They are designed for an ICE vehicle where the starter motor requires that boost.
I would be recharging the battery with my CTEC MXS 5.0 (or equivalent) on the reconditioning charge setting. The conditioning charge will likely take several hours (but not 36 hours?). There is a larger CTEC model for larger batteries. This may well be a similar charger to the one shown on the video. If the battery fails again, yes, change it! The battery monitors (shown in another video) is also a good idea to keep an eye on what is going on.
I had a similar problem with my Hyundai Kona Electric. The 12V battery failed twice within 4 Years. After the 2nd time the battery went flat at a very inconvenient place, I bought a power bank with 12V jump start capability for the car battery. It works properly and brings flat 12V Batteries back to live.
I forgot to include power banks/jump packs in this video.
Hi Matt once again a very good and informative video but I have a question lots of people today have a car jump starter it like a very small power pack which you charge at home and then keep in your glovebox the one I have is called a Halo it also as a flash light and a tyre pump all in one unit is there anything to be aware of when using this king of thing I have been trying to add a picture or Amazon link but I can’t see how to do it but I’m sure you will know what I’m talking about once again thank you for your time and effort
Les
From Wigan
Yes I should have included jump packs in the video. Yes you can use them, but if they have modes on it, put it in "constant 12V mode" or "charging mode" rather than "boost/jump mode", as that is designed for an ICE engine with a starter motor.
I haven’t had an issue with my 12v yet but I carry lithium jump pack in the car just in case something like this happens, batteries tend not to fail at convenient places or time.
Hi great video but can you change a electrical vehicles 12volt battery with both vehicles pos and neg connected
No, but no need really unless your radio has a security code and you don't have it. Most newer vehicles don't have radio codes anymore.
Would I be right in thinking that if my 12v battery goes flat then the battery is probably on the way out or could it be flat because of a problem with the EV charging system. Also what is the best type of replacement if you need one. Thanks
The battery will go flat because of lack of use (sat unused too long) or too many short trips where it doesn't have long enough time to recharge fully. Its no different to an ICE vehicle. EV charging system faults are extremely rare. As for the battery replacement, that video is coming next Wednesday.
My Ioniq 28version, it gives me a message that I read and the sense I make of it the large battery gets used to keep the 12volt battery good when left unused for a few days etc… 🤔
Yes Hyundai & Kia EVs has a system that wakes up the car and starts the 12V charging if it gets low. Its not fool proof though and the Ioniq 38kWh still suffers from dead 12V batteries, but it goes a long way to help.
As ever, I still await the right battery being fitted to EVs. A battery designed for hard cranking and quick recharge is not the right one. I've had to start with a convenient 12v leisure battery ( I had a boat) and the advantage is you don't need hefty jump lead cable. Just enough to open a big relay.
Yes, you're right
I can remember, in years gone by, disconnecting the battery, thoroughly cleaning the terminal posts, reconnecting, and hopefully starting the engine.
This step seems to be ignored these days.
Is there a reason?
In years gone by when batteries were vented and terminals corroded, yes. Less of an issue now as battery terminals stay cleaner. But if they are corroded or dirty, absolutely.
My Kangoo ZE has just come up with Brake Failure on the dash. Ove lost the speedo, electric windows, cabin fan etc. Renault atate it could be the 12v battery on its way out. Have you ever heard of this? Thanks.
Yes, quite common. A dead or low battery will cause all sorts of issues across the vehicle as everything is controlled by ECUs.
@@GoGreenAutos 🤞 hope so! Thanks for everything you do on your channel! You've guided me through the past 3 EV's I've owned. More importantly, thanks for your quick reply! 🙏
@@SJBraveYesterday A battery tester like this amzn.to/4azjT99 is worth its weight in gold.
Hi, I bought my Hyundai a few months ago, but recently, it's been saying that my coolant is low, although it is at its maximum. My service is due in 9 days, could you please advise me on this. Thanks.
See www.youtube.com/@GoGreenAutos/search?query=ioniq%20coolant
Videos already on this subject. Its a recall to change the coolant to different type. Make sure its done at the service.
@@GoGreenAutos Thank you very much..
EV’s are new to me. Is there a reason why you can’t install a Lithium battery as the 12 volt battery?
No there's not. Just cost. Tesla have recently gone to a 16V lithium battery on their new cars and this battery is meant to last the life of the car.
Wht do they fit such a big 12v battery if all it needs to do is operate the power relay? It looks big enough to start a diesel engine with stop/start.
Wouldn't a tiny leisure battery be better?
It would be. They fit the same battery as the diesel Kangoo. All traditional OEMs do the same. Its probably cheaper to fit the same. Same battery tray, same wiring, same plastics etc etc.
I'm likely missing something fundamental , but why not step down the 400V to 800V from the traction battery to 12V through a switched mode power supply? Couldn't you then skip having the 12V battery entirely? It seems like that would save space and reduce complexity. I may be totally missing something here. I have a suspicion the answer is "it would cost more to manufacture" 😅
This is extremely helpful practical guidance for the reality we have tho. Thank you!
I think that happens - but you need to have a 12v supply to flip the contactors to 'switch on' the HV system.
You need an external (12V) supply to switch the HV battery on and off. When the car is locked and not used, the HV battery is isolated and shutdown. You therefore need the 12V battery to unlock the vehicle, switch on the ECUs to start it, which in turn opens the contactors to enable the HV battery.
You could do it the way you suggest, but the HV will be on all the time. They've decided not to go down that route, I guess for safety maybe. Tesla do it differently, as their HV battery is live most of the time, but they still have a 12V battery (16V in the latest models).
@@GoGreenAutos that makes sense. That is a useful perspective. Thank you!
so, when the snow storm knocks out electricity for 5-6 days to weeks, you're screwed. when the tornado-wind storm that knocks down all the trees on to the powerlines for 6-7 days, you're screwed. when the fires in Cali takes out all the power for about 2 weeks, you're screwed. In TX, AL, GA, MS, LA, CA, AZ, NM, UT, NV, AL, FL, CO when they declare a HEAT EMERGENCY WITH BLACKOUTS, THEN 1/2 THE COUNTRY IS SCREWED. I guess I can add hurricanes that had power out in some areas for over a month in TX in 2016 & FL last year.
Electricity black outs takes down petrol stations too.
@@GoGreenAutos But I still have 200-250 miles from my 1/2 tank of gas... I get 30 City/50 Hwy with 11 gallon tank... And don't have to charge it to go 5 miles
Regarding this type of problem on a NEW tesla.
They are switching from 12v to 16v. This means they are incompatible to anything else on the market.
Their 16v batteries are lithium based, not acid based. They are much smaller and lighter and a lot less amps (as they don't need it)
But what is most important is that the 16v battery is expensive AF, and also it has a controller inside.
Why couldn't they put the controller on the outside and keep the battery as affordable as possible if needed change?
Because you can't jump start a tesla with a flat battery as you'd think, like attaching wires.
Oh no, because of that internal switch that literally closes the battery inside itself you need to jump through hoops and hope it unlocks itself.
Anti consumer prasctices galore.
Ah, if your 16v battery is dead, guess what, nothing works. Yes, the completely digital vehicle is just a hunk of metal.
But Tesla's are different as the HV battery stays live and therefore its not reliant on the aux battery so much. Their battery management is already pretty good and they don't suffer dead batteries as much as others and you also get advanced warning when it needs changing. However, the ideal of the new 16V lithium battery is that it is meant to last the life of the vehicle.
I love my diesel none of these problems and a key in my drivers door
Renault, biggest pile of shit going, had a Magane Senic, that if you left the steering wheel in the wrong position, the bugger would refuse to start, I'd would never have another
Simple don't buy one
Sorry anyone who buys ev is a few marbles short of a set