On my 2002 Monaco Diplomat, I did what you did: broke out my 50 amp shore power cable. I put it on a manual cord reel in a compartment. I added a 25 foot cable as an extension as-needed. I then wired my Hughes Autoformer and Power Watchdog units into the electrical bay (securing them) and placed the short 50amp male plug in that bay too. All set. Clean. Locked up. 😊
I'd never seen that 50A to dual 20A cable before - that could be very handy! I have a 30A rig, but I use a 50A to 30A & 20A conversion cable which is very handy. I installed a dedicated outlet that I plug into the 20A outlet on the cable when I use electric heat - very handy for my camping!
Yeah. Didn't think many folks knew about that one. I've already found a couple different uses for it. Sounds like you've got a pretty functional setup goin on.
Fantastic ideas, especially for you and your compartment and needs. I have no solar etc and love to run 50a. I May follow your tip and convert my dedicated 50a trailer wire to an extension cord. I already have a right angle rv to 50 a dog bone, so I could gain a right angle connection ( which I can’t find as a plug). I also always carry a spare 15 foot 50a extension cord, and thus I could just use that instead of the 25 foot heavy wire when I’m typically parked near a pedestal. Or use them together so I’d have 15,25, or 40 foot power leads. Thanks for the ideas.
Thank you senior Tito!! You meck my day!! I screw up my electric Al the time. Now I fix it corect. Thank you!! Also on the roof, I will put the solar panels now.
I’m so glad I have a power winder on my motorhome for my 50 amp cord and it’s 25 foot long. I do also carry a 30 foot50 amp extension with me that I keep in another compartment. But like you, I drag camp 95% of the time, so neither one of them gets used. Thanks for the video.
❤ pure genuis -- I have busted knuckles trying to get the 30 amp cord stuffed back into the tiny compartment on our View....that will end soon. The plugs are an Amazon away. As always, watching your stuff is helpful - even if it does not directly apply to my situation.
For all these reasons and many more, I’ve never used a 50A connection on my RV. Always using my 30A and now my 3000K Victron Inverter can assist in the rare instances where I’ve needed more power. Since it’s rare, I’ve yet to have any issues….
Additional note. My 5er doesn't have a dedicated compartment, just the single pass thru so that's the main reason for sticking with the lighter, easier to handle power cord. It was several years before I wised up and stopped hauling around that heavy 50A cord.
Great ideas and setup. The 50 to two 20s seems more useful if running a generator to power multiple loads. Even though my coach has a 50amp RV twist lock type of plug on the coach end, I was able to get an adapter that is the exact opposite that you built. It splits from the coach 50 amp twist lock to two 30amp rv plugs. I plug in two 30amp to 20 amp adapters and run two heavy duty extension cords to two different outlets at my house, or when mooch docking. This gives me, depending on the outlets that one is plugging into, a total of 40 amps or 40 amps (20 or 15 on each leg), which allows me to run both a/c, when a 30 or 50 amp outlet is not available to plug into. This adapter has allowed me to skip the extra expense of having to install a 50 amp plug. Also, if I'm at a campground that only has 30amp pedestals, being that the adapter is actually 50 to two 30s, I could plug into two 30amp pedestals, and provide full power to the coach. In general, the more adapter configuration one has, the more flexibility one has, as they encounter different situations, and they also can help others if need arises.
I added a portable 9K BTU A/C, Washer and dryer to my 30A TT. Split a 50A male into 30A and 20A females. Using the standard 30A cord and added 20A cord, that connects through the A/C exhaust door, I can run everything from one 50A, or one 30A and one 20A. This didn't require rewiring the TT for 50A, just added one 20A outlet next to the A/C exhaust door.
I always enjoy your informative and thoughtful videos. I might have added about switching the standard yellow 30amp plug that comes with most new trailer to the superior Smartplug. It is easier to use, gives a reassuring click when engaged and has greater contact surface. Thanks again.
Right on great tips Brian I have often just ran a extra extension cord to my trailer for a small heater as well as my 30 amp only if the pedestal has it of course thanks
Same here. The previous owner actually had the 50A cord stolen one winter (severed while connected to power). Since then, he ran only a regular extension cord for a trickle charger.
I did the same thing with my 50A cord. Bonus was that if I want to use my Autoformer and surge protector I can keep them locked in the cable bay instead of having it sitting out in weather.
I have always heard the fewer connections the better, each connection adds a point for a loose or bad connection that can cause overheating in the connection.
I agree, thanks. There are more points to make sure they are tight and clean while implementing a maintenance program. Note that more connectors will also cause more voltage drop which is a concern under high load conditions.
Yes. That's right. If you lose the surge protector, you could use this single 50A to 120V adapter (amzn.to/3qzTSEG) and go right into the extension cord.
They make an adapter where you can use two 30 AMP circuits to create a 50 AMP connection. We've used it more than a few times for our motorhome. It works great!
@@jonathanowens2337 There are race tracks we work at that have RV hook ups but they are only 30 AMP. We use 2 pedestals when that happens. In most camp grounds that's not necessarily the case. We did stay at 1 earlier this year where we ended up using two 30 AMP plugs on 2 sites that where back to back because there were no 50 amp sites available.
Very good Brian..good examples. As simple as the wiring is, I believe it may be beyond the capability of some DIY'rs. Just for safety sake, If you are not comfortable with working with high power cables/connectors/applications, please have someone who is to do this work for you.
Thanks for the heads up on the 50 amp conversion to 20s. I'm thinking it would help power a heater - inside my type C and take the pressure off my 30 amp. Or easy way to plug in a heater or heaters for sitting outside some morning and use the heater to knock the chill done without needing to build a fire. Thanks again for your ideas.
What I like to do also is remove the access panel behind the absorption fridge and plug the AC on the back of the refrigerator right into the pedestal.
If your running off your genny or solar inverter to power your 120 appliances, is that plug you installed in the bay Hot from Feed back? Probably it would be better (safer) to have a mounted, covered RV receptacle than a loose plug.
It is not hot because it is on the input side of the transfer switch. This is not an unusual setup, but most RVs that have removeable cords use a male receptacle instead of a plug. My Foretravel uses a male twist-lock receptacle, and it was built that way by the factory 32 years ago. It has two cords, one 50 Amp and one 30 Amp.
Great Tips Thank you! Did you make the 50 amp “pigtail or can you buy it? I did something similar to that for my 30 amp motorhome. I added a 20 amp receptacle to my plug compartment and ran a short cable into our Rv. It’s nice to have a single independent plug to plug in a space heater with out having to worry about overloading the 30 amp system. Of course you need a 120 volt outlet at the power pedestal.
Just a quick comment on newer rigs vs older rigs. My 2023 Travato would not allow my home-made extension cord to work at home but the older 1999 Pleasureway with a transformer type inverter worked just fine. As it turned out an AC analyzer showed I had a hot/neutral reverse when I wired the plug years ago. The new computer power systems are much more sensitive to correct wiring and a quick fix solved the problem.
One bad thing is you just added more connections to your power line. One more thing to heat up and fail. I like a cleaner set up, I bought a power line monitor that was made to be hard wired into the system at the coach end. Also the 50A to 15A setup you now have more voltage drop across the extension cord. A #6 wire in the 50A cable vs #12 wire in the extension cord.
Yup. Understood. It's definitely better to minimize the number of connections. I also have one of these 50A plug to 20A adapters (amzn.to/3p26Bja ) which also does the trick. About the potential voltage drop: Sure, a #6 AWG wire will probably have almost no voltage drop for a light load 25ft away. But it's probably overkill if you only have a 500W to 1500W max load. #12 AWG ext cords are typically rated for 50ft at 120V and #10 ext cords are rated up to 100ft. I typically use a #12 AWG cord at 25ft. Any tiny potential voltage drop for me is very minor and worth the convenience.
thanks, I cant connect my rig with a bill dog power surge to 110v with a ground fault plug. The bull dog wont let the 110v through. But when plugging into a normal plug I am fine.. weird
Hi there from Jimmy in UK, I have 2 big Lithuim batteries on my large mobility scooter is there any way I can charge my mobility scooter when on the move so I can have unlimited mileage 😊
Do you have problems when you plug into a GFCI with no load, that the breaker trips for that circuit since you have the Victron Multiplus II? I’ve read where others have this issue because it sees an open ground. Do you know how to fix this?
can't speak to the reality of this - but I saw a recent post somewhere which opined that extension cords can be (at least anecdotally) protected from theft by making some really jakey looking black electrical tape "repairs" (which of course are bogus) at several points down the length - people apparently don't mess with stealing extension cords they perceive as having problems...
Typically the natural male prong and female plug fail at the pedestal and cord. This usually burns the plug off your cord because of the loose connection. This is what happens when you have cord plugs and repeated use. If you've ever had a plug get ruined at the pedestal and melt, imagine that you now have moved that hazard inside your RV?
My motor batteries are not being charged when I have the coach plugged in. I just had new batteries put in and wondering if this is normal. I had the service done at a freightliner dealership.
1. If you are going to that much trouble, just install a 50 amp breaker box in your RV. Now you have an additional breaker to protect you and you can have that breaker off, while you are hooking up your 50 amp shore power cable and surge protector. 2. Putting the surge protector inside the storage box is NOT a good idea. I've seen surge protectors blow up from a lightning strike. I'd much rather that occurred outside my rig than inside; even with the higher risk that the surge protector gets stolen.
Am I wrong to be concerned about the safety of putting a bunch of connectors in a box that is under my rig? It is my understanding that the reason for twist locking connectors at the RV is to reduce the chance of a loose connection causing heat or starting a fire? you are using multiple connectors, and if any of them get loose at all you taking a big risk. That does not seem safe to me.
In any hookup, it's always a good preventative measure to regularly inspect your plugs and connectors for wear, corrosion and overheating. Also, make sure you're not exceeding their rated current. Twist lock connectors are nice to have. I've never had one on any of my RVs.
The Victron Inverter/Charger he uses has a built-in transfer switch. It is wired between the input and the load so while it can pass shore power to the RV it can only go one way. When running on batteries or solar the inverter does not push back through the input. I have the same unit in my RV. It works the same way with the generator wiring but that has its own transfer switch.
No. It's not hot. Neither the inverter or RV transfer switch feed power back unless the whole system is wired wrong and there's current feeding back through the ground. That would be bad.
Its 50 amps total on the outlet, not each leg. I could see where that dog-bone would come in handy if more outlets are needed for other toys you bring with you.
Often wondered myself a long time ago. So I Googled it. It just worked out that way back when Tesla and Edison were going at it. www.electronicproducts.com/why-doesnt-the-us-use-220v-like-everyone-else-in-the-world/
I thought I knew how to attach plug-ends, but pulling the pins out makes it a LOT easier - thanks!
You bet Phil!
On my 2002 Monaco Diplomat, I did what you did: broke out my 50 amp shore power cable. I put it on a manual cord reel in a compartment. I added a 25 foot cable as an extension as-needed. I then wired my Hughes Autoformer and Power Watchdog units into the electrical bay (securing them) and placed the short 50amp male plug in that bay too. All set. Clean. Locked up. 😊
Nice! I always thought I'd add a cord reel, but never had a good spot for it.
I'd never seen that 50A to dual 20A cable before - that could be very handy! I have a 30A rig, but I use a 50A to 30A & 20A conversion cable which is very handy. I installed a dedicated outlet that I plug into the 20A outlet on the cable when I use electric heat - very handy for my camping!
Yeah. Didn't think many folks knew about that one. I've already found a couple different uses for it. Sounds like you've got a pretty functional setup goin on.
Fantastic ideas, especially for you and your compartment and needs. I have no solar etc and love to run 50a. I May follow your tip and convert my dedicated 50a trailer wire to an extension cord. I already have a right angle rv to 50 a dog bone, so I could gain a right angle connection ( which I can’t find as a plug). I also always carry a spare 15 foot 50a extension cord, and thus I could just use that instead of the 25 foot heavy wire when I’m typically parked near a pedestal. Or use them together so I’d have 15,25, or 40 foot power leads.
Thanks for the ideas.
You bet. Sounds like you've got lots of options
Thank you senior Tito!! You meck my day!! I screw up my electric Al the time. Now I fix it corect. Thank you!!
Also on the roof, I will put the solar panels now.
Geeat! Glad to hear from you!
I’m so glad I have a power winder on my motorhome for my 50 amp cord and it’s 25 foot long. I do also carry a 30 foot50 amp extension with me that I keep in another compartment. But like you, I drag camp 95% of the time, so neither one of them gets used. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome. Yeah a power winder is a very nice thing to have...if you plug in more than you and I do 😃
❤ pure genuis -- I have busted knuckles trying to get the 30 amp cord stuffed back into the tiny compartment on our View....that will end soon. The plugs are an Amazon away.
As always, watching your stuff is helpful - even if it does not directly apply to my situation.
For all these reasons and many more, I’ve never used a 50A connection on my RV. Always using my 30A and now my 3000K Victron Inverter can assist in the rare instances where I’ve needed more power. Since it’s rare, I’ve yet to have any issues….
Additional note. My 5er doesn't have a dedicated compartment, just the single pass thru so that's the main reason for sticking with the lighter, easier to handle power cord. It was several years before I wised up and stopped hauling around that heavy 50A cord.
Same here. I rarely ever need the 50A anymore. Once I get my new A/C setup I should never need it.
Great ideas and setup. The 50 to two 20s seems more useful if running a generator to power multiple loads. Even though my coach has a 50amp RV twist lock type of plug on the coach end, I was able to get an adapter that is the exact opposite that you built. It splits from the coach 50 amp twist lock to two 30amp rv plugs. I plug in two 30amp to 20 amp adapters and run two heavy duty extension cords to two different outlets at my house, or when mooch docking. This gives me, depending on the outlets that one is plugging into, a total of 40 amps or 40 amps (20 or 15 on each leg), which allows me to run both a/c, when a 30 or 50 amp outlet is not available to plug into. This adapter has allowed me to skip the extra expense of having to install a 50 amp plug. Also, if I'm at a campground that only has 30amp pedestals, being that the adapter is actually 50 to two 30s, I could plug into two 30amp pedestals, and provide full power to the coach. In general, the more adapter configuration one has, the more flexibility one has, as they encounter different situations, and they also can help others if need arises.
I added a portable 9K BTU A/C, Washer and dryer to my 30A TT. Split a 50A male into 30A and 20A females. Using the standard 30A cord and added 20A cord, that connects through the A/C exhaust door, I can run everything from one 50A, or one 30A and one 20A. This didn't require rewiring the TT for 50A, just added one 20A outlet next to the A/C exhaust door.
Nice solution!
Great video, thank you. I like having the surge protector inside locked so it doesn't get stolen.
Yeah. I've never liked having it hanging from the pedestal.
I always enjoy your informative and thoughtful videos. I might have added about switching the standard yellow 30amp plug that comes with most new trailer to the superior Smartplug. It is easier to use, gives a reassuring click when engaged and has greater contact surface. Thanks again.
Great tip! Thanks.
Right on great tips Brian I have often just ran a extra extension cord to my trailer for a small heater as well as my 30 amp only if the pedestal has it of course thanks
Same here. The previous owner actually had the 50A cord stolen one winter (severed while connected to power). Since then, he ran only a regular extension cord for a trickle charger.
I did the same thing with my 50A cord. Bonus was that if I want to use my Autoformer and surge protector I can keep them locked in the cable bay instead of having it sitting out in weather.
Exactly!
Thanks Brian, as always, a fun and educational watch.
Glad you enjoyed it
I moved to a smart plug and got rid of my mouse hole. Same idea. I love it!
Do they make a 50A smart plug?
Just bought a Winnebago Vista and I'm going to do that to the power cord. Pain in the butt getting all that cable through that little hole. Thanks
Certainly is a pain.
I have always heard the fewer connections the better, each connection adds a point for a loose or bad connection that can cause overheating in the connection.
I agree, thanks. There are more points to make sure they are tight and clean while implementing a maintenance program.
Note that more connectors will also cause more voltage drop which is a concern under high load conditions.
Yes. That's right. If you lose the surge protector, you could use this single 50A to 120V adapter (amzn.to/3qzTSEG) and go right into the extension cord.
Good info for when I get ready to start my RV life!!
Glad it was helpful!
Fascinated by this hack. Very useful.
Yes it is. 👍
They make an adapter where you can use two 30 AMP circuits to create a 50 AMP connection. We've used it more than a few times for our motorhome. It works great!
Yes. I've seen those. There seem to be more adapters available these days than before.
these always confuse me. Where do you get 2 30 amp connections at once?
@@jonathanowens2337 There are race tracks we work at that have RV hook ups but they are only 30 AMP. We use 2 pedestals when that happens.
In most camp grounds that's not necessarily the case. We did stay at 1 earlier this year where we ended up using two 30 AMP plugs on 2 sites that where back to back because there were no 50 amp sites available.
@@jonathanowens2337 I see them at Georgia state parks. Nowhere else yet.
Great information. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Great information. Thanks again Don
You bet Don! Glad you enjoyed it.
As always a great video.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it
Very good Brian..good examples. As simple as the wiring is, I believe it may be beyond the capability of some DIY'rs. Just for safety sake, If you are not comfortable with working with high power cables/connectors/applications, please have someone who is to do this work for you.
Absolutely. Good advice.
Well done!
Thanks!
Thanks for the heads up on the 50 amp conversion to 20s. I'm thinking it would help power a heater - inside my type C and take the pressure off my 30 amp. Or easy way to plug in a heater or heaters for sitting outside some morning and use the heater to knock the chill done without needing to build a fire. Thanks again for your ideas.
What I like to do also is remove the access panel behind the absorption fridge and plug the AC on the back of the refrigerator right into the pedestal.
@@RVwithTito Thanks for the idea. Hadn't thought of that. Will keep that in mind.
Some good advice
Glad you thought so. Thanks!
If your running off your genny or solar inverter to power your 120 appliances, is that plug you installed in the bay Hot from Feed back? Probably it would be better (safer) to have a mounted, covered RV receptacle than a loose plug.
It is not hot because it is on the input side of the transfer switch. This is not an unusual setup, but most RVs that have removeable cords use a male receptacle instead of a plug. My Foretravel uses a male twist-lock receptacle, and it was built that way by the factory 32 years ago. It has two cords, one 50 Amp and one 30 Amp.
There shouldn't be any feedback through the inverter or transfer switch. The solar charger is actually completely separate on the 12V DC side.
I have it where i can use j1772 in my camper van and safely run about 20 22 amps max at 120 v
Nice. Isn't that an EV cord?
Thanks for sharing. Like 76
Thank you! Cheers!
Great Tips Thank you! Did you make the 50 amp “pigtail or can you buy it? I did something similar to that for my 30 amp motorhome. I added a 20 amp receptacle to my plug compartment and ran a short cable into our Rv. It’s nice to have a single independent plug to plug in a space heater with out having to worry about overloading the 30 amp system. Of course you need a 120 volt outlet at the power pedestal.
No need to make one. Here it is amzn.to/3N1dSro
Just a quick comment on newer rigs vs older rigs. My 2023 Travato would not allow my home-made extension cord to work at home but the older 1999 Pleasureway with a transformer type inverter worked just fine. As it turned out an AC analyzer showed I had a hot/neutral reverse when I wired the plug years ago. The new computer power systems are much more sensitive to correct wiring and a quick fix solved the problem.
Yes. I was going to ask what that is then you answered it :)
I use heavy duty scissors for cutting cabling
One bad thing is you just added more connections to your power line. One more thing to heat up and fail. I like a cleaner set up, I bought a power line monitor that was made to be hard wired into the system at the coach end. Also the 50A to 15A setup you now have more voltage drop across the extension cord. A #6 wire in the 50A cable vs #12 wire in the extension cord.
Yup. Understood. It's definitely better to minimize the number of connections. I also have one of these 50A plug to 20A adapters (amzn.to/3p26Bja ) which also does the trick. About the potential voltage drop: Sure, a #6 AWG wire will probably have almost no voltage drop for a light load 25ft away. But it's probably overkill if you only have a 500W to 1500W max load. #12 AWG ext cords are typically rated for 50ft at 120V and #10 ext cords are rated up to 100ft. I typically use a #12 AWG cord at 25ft. Any tiny potential voltage drop for me is very minor and worth the convenience.
thanks, I cant connect my rig with a bill dog power surge to 110v with a ground fault plug. The bull dog wont let the 110v through. But when plugging into a normal plug I am fine.. weird
I’ve never found connectors that come apart without great difficulty, often it takes 2 people to pull them apart.
Dialectic grease will help with that issue.
Yes. They can get pretty tight. Sand any oxidation off periodically and spray on some dielectric grease helps too and also helps prevent oxidation.
Hi there from Jimmy in UK, I have 2 big Lithuim batteries on my large mobility scooter is there any way I can charge my mobility scooter when on the move so I can have unlimited mileage 😊
Did your Adventurer come with 50a? Our 2001 32v is only 30a. If you converted, did you do a video on that?
Ours came with 50A.
Great video Brian. Isn't there also a pigtail that will combine a 20 amp & 30 amp outlet into 50 amp?
Can't say. I imagine it's designed to go the other way 50A to 20A and 30A.
I used a 30 amp marine twist lock on my RV side. I'm a bit confused on the 50 amp math. How do you go from 50 amp to two 20 amp?
14:24 a quality trigger clamp will help you make this connection easier and less fatigue on you
Great as always but those gloves came off pretty early
What happened to your AC renovation?
Still happening. I'm waiting on components to arrive.
Do you have problems when you plug into a GFCI with no load, that the breaker trips for that circuit since you have the Victron Multiplus II? I’ve read where others have this issue because it sees an open ground. Do you know how to fix this?
Haven't had that issue.
I use small tote box to wind cord into Talk about 50 amp to 2- 20 120Volt Why use 50 amp cord and put dog bone 2 -120 volt in the cabinet
can't speak to the reality of this - but I saw a recent post somewhere which opined that extension cords can be (at least anecdotally) protected from theft by making some really jakey looking black electrical tape "repairs" (which of course are bogus) at several points down the length - people apparently don't mess with stealing extension cords they perceive as having problems...
I wonder if that would wife-approved :)
Winnebago 35 u. Is only 30 amp with basement air . 2001. My rig never gets above 24 amps on initial start up .
Aha. 30A is all you need then.
Typically the natural male prong and female plug fail at the pedestal and cord. This usually burns the plug off your cord because of the loose connection. This is what happens when you have cord plugs and repeated use. If you've ever had a plug get ruined at the pedestal and melt, imagine that you now have moved that hazard inside your RV?
My motor batteries are not being charged when I have the coach plugged in. I just had new batteries put in and wondering if this is normal. I had the service done at a freightliner dealership.
For my gas motorhomes that is normal. The chassis battery only charges when the engine is running. The two systems are separate.
1. If you are going to that much trouble, just install a 50 amp breaker box in your RV. Now you have an additional breaker to protect you and you can have that breaker off, while you are hooking up your 50 amp shore power cable and surge protector.
2. Putting the surge protector inside the storage box is NOT a good idea. I've seen surge protectors blow up from a lightning strike. I'd much rather that occurred outside my rig than inside; even with the higher risk that the surge protector gets stolen.
Am I wrong to be concerned about the safety of putting a bunch of connectors in a box that is under my rig? It is my understanding that the reason for twist locking connectors at the RV is to reduce the chance of a loose connection causing heat or starting a fire? you are using multiple connectors, and if any of them get loose at all you taking a big risk. That does not seem safe to me.
In any hookup, it's always a good preventative measure to regularly inspect your plugs and connectors for wear, corrosion and overheating. Also, make sure you're not exceeding their rated current. Twist lock connectors are nice to have. I've never had one on any of my RVs.
Is the male end, in the electrical compartment, hot when Solar is on?
that would be called a WIDOW Maker lol im sure he has a switch to isolate
The Victron Inverter/Charger he uses has a built-in transfer switch. It is wired between the input and the load so while it can pass shore power to the RV it can only go one way. When running on batteries or solar the inverter does not push back through the input. I have the same unit in my RV. It works the same way with the generator wiring but that has its own transfer switch.
No. It's not hot. Neither the inverter or RV transfer switch feed power back unless the whole system is wired wrong and there's current feeding back through the ground. That would be bad.
Its 50 amps total on the outlet, not each leg. I could see where that dog-bone would come in handy if more outlets are needed for other toys you bring with you.
With the dual 120A outlet adapter it's 40A total, up to 20A on each leg. When the RV is connected it is rated for up to 50A on each leg.
The rv geeks have a 50 amp power cable reel thats electric
But yea i build all my own adapters and cables its cheaper than buying them made up from the worst places of all camping world
Yeah. Same here. Made a couple more last night for another project.
🇩🇰🇩🇰🇩🇰👀👀👀
Uh what?
Tito just watching from denmark😊
it must be a pain to work with 110v and not 240v . amperage and cables have to be so massive !! why on earth did the US go 110V ??
Often wondered myself a long time ago. So I Googled it. It just worked out that way back when Tesla and Edison were going at it. www.electronicproducts.com/why-doesnt-the-us-use-220v-like-everyone-else-in-the-world/
@@RVwithTito Fascinating ! thanks for the link
@@justinlinnane8043 You're welcome. Yes. It's very interesting.