One other thing to look at is IAC valve. I know a bad idle air control valve will create a vacuum leak situation which the computer cannot regulate with a bad valve, can also be why your running rich as the computer is trying to compensate for the extra air by enriching the fuel mixture. Good luck 👍🏾 keep focus on the goal.
Make sure you check vaccuum lines or adjust throttlebody (if possible). I had an issue with my car dying when coming to stop after it warmed up because the engine was essentially getting choked out from not getting enough air.
I think it's f'n cool how you and your girl Franzie have 240's and the fact that she does work on the cars with you. Keep the great content coming bro!!
I swear it stills looks so great outside in his videos. Here it's freezing cold and rainy everyday and it feels like we're getting only a couple of hours of daylight I haven't been able to put a single hour of work on my car even tho it absolutely needs to be ready to send to paint before the end of this year...
Mike I was watching your videos about 4 months ago and I saw you weld the oil pan of the 300zx after cleaning it with brake clean and when brake clean reaches a certain temperature it creates a gas that can be fatal if your exposed to it often the best and most safe thing you can use is acetone
@@QuattroWayne meh, your talking about so little that it is irrelevant. Even if it’s left it would evaporate as fast as the engine reaching any higher temps
The new green can formula of brake clean doesn’t do that when heated. The green cans are mostly acetone. That was an issue with the older red cans, which are made with mostly Tetrachloroethylene. The red cans are getting harder to find nowadays anyway Still not a good idea to weld with brake clean tho
@@SharpieEasternn yeh I'm sure he knows I just said incase he didn't because I remember getting really sick when I was doing my old Nissan blue birds frame rails I found out from my doctor so it's good to know just incase
I had a similar dying issue in my s13. Turned put to be the cluster. It was doing the same thing, all ancillary gauges worked, but the tach an speedo read all the way to the right. Swapped clusters an it went away.
07:56 gasket orientation doesn't matter cause itll flatted out when you torque bolts anyways. HOWEEVER. since the turbo down pipe gasket is directional (from its shape) look at the orientation of the crush lip on that down pipe gasket when installed, in relation to the flow of exhaust gasses. this will give you an idea for what the engineer intended for the crush washer orientation via the flow of exhaust gases.
22:39 it's so funny to me that I live in Montana and never see anything like this, but then i'll watch youtube videos and see these sick imports rocking the plates.
Mike do you have a Blow off valve on your car? BOV's make maf cars run super rich and can cause the stalling you see after load. my z32 used to do that until i went back to re-circulation valves.
Keep up what your doing my guy, you're doing the lords work keeping these S chassis' rolling! Stoked to see you in the Gloria too buddy! Also, shout out to franzy
I ran into a similar issue with a wrx. The BOV was causing some sort of weird vacuum issue and would kill the car in the exact same way. Swapped it out and worked perfect after.
My sr car died pulling up to lights because of a minor vacuum leak in my wastegate line. Not sure if you checked that just a thought. Replaced my Maf, coolant temp, o2 and some other shit. Replaced the line and it was perfect
Great job! I really like watching your videos and the content is always engaging, however each video I expect to see you starting the paint job for your project cars but it never happens :D Oh well, will wait for that day and until then - still continue watching and expecting... :)
mike. new wiring harness and a standalone for frans car. this will help all of your issues, while ordering the harness get a link monsoon, best bang for buck and with ordering the harness you can have them tailor the harness to that setup. and NO MORE MAF go to map sensor!
Mike, I don't know if anyone has said this yet but this problem could because your MAF is too close to your Turbo. It might not be reading the air correctly because of a vortex of air by the turbo. Move the Maf away from the turbo.
The dying when putting the car in neutral could be there isnt enough airfkow going past the maf sensor. I was having that issue on my 240 and what was causing it was the intake boot was torn in between the trottle body and maf sensor so it wasnt getting a good reading
This is old but if you’re running stock ecu and have a BOV it’s gonna stall out after you let off throttle. Air that was supposed to be recirculated is being vented Or there’s a boost leak in ic or intake. Hopefully ya get it sorted
first time viewer, and i loooove your presenting style. knowledgeable, informative, humble with logcal processes.. exactly how i view things.. but idk how you dont open and inspect deliveries before usage?! i would geek out item over quality in my personal time 😂😂
my kaT has the same stalling issue ive given up trying to fix it just downshift everytime i drive it so it wont die. cant wait to see if you figure it out so i dont have to anymore
you guys are soooooo fn lucky to still have a manual car was locally. all of mine have been torn down and replaced with automated drive through washes. hate it!!!!
Id test the bov being after the afm theory first , being the blow off valve is releasing measured air causing a super rich condition which the iac cannot send enough air to counter for . Either adjust your bov to super hard so it doesn't open as easily, or confirm it by blocking the bov port completely and retesting
@@PrizzaMike ohms test the iac would be the next test I would perform , if you can bring up live data to confirm o2 sensor is within range , aside from fitting a known good one .
I'm not sure you needed the factory gasket if those adapter flanges had o-rings on both sides, depending on the material they should be able to hold up to the heat. Also I have done a few t28 turbo swaps, and almost always had to heat the dp and put a small dent where it was contacting with the block.
I hope you continue to keep making your videos like this as you grow bigger, You explain things extremely well and it’s super entertaining at the same time🤙
Dying after load sounds like the problem I was having with my crankshaft position sensor. When tletting the car coast for a while, it would die as soon as I press down the clutch. I dont know enough about these engines to know if it has one of those sensors though
its funny coming back to this video months later knowing there's a massive hole in that intercooler pipe causing all the issues the car has been experiencing and not the turbo or coolant temp sensor. like, imagine if it didn't get so dark so early. you might have noticed the hole when you checked it in the parking lot after the first test drive
Bro laterally my car us N/A and doing the same. On the code reader it says p0600. just says missing link to ecm. cuts out when driving,. if i turn it off and on and pop it in second off I go again, sometimes jerks.. need to look into it tomorrow. great vid keep it up!!
Dude that Yakuza Nissan at thee end, holy smokes!!! I'm golad my wife is not the only one with such an irrational fear of every spider haha. It's all good that's what your partner is there for right?
Having a massive air leak before or right after the o2 will cause it to stall. You only had 2 bolts in a 5 bolt flange. This includes pre turbo leaks also.
Don’t know if you resolved the dying, but if it’s only when you are post-acceleration, the BOV can be passing air, and the stock ECU will still be dumping fuel, flooding it. I have that issue. Solution is to get an ECU that fuels off TPS, or just don’t do that :-)
I had the same problem with my s13 died after a pull and letting go of the gas. I has to turn up the idle even tho the car ran om idle. Hope this helps👍
Dude your Gloria is gonna be as sick if not better then that vepoo from Japan parked with you !!!! That Gloria is so badass dude you got your sick cruiser vip style
She's such a lucky girl to have you as her boyfriend. That's awesome that your fixing it for her much love, respect and appreciation for you, PizzaMike
I know it's not your style or the kind of content you do on your channel, but I really want to see a clean build with the Gloria. A build where all panels are same color, wheels are new, new tires, some decent suspension and something more "showroom" quality and not backyard engineering. I know you can do this type of work.
It's always cool watching some engine/turbo build video with some deep explains 😄
Waiting for the next chapter of the glorious Gloria 🤘
a
can’t wait
One other thing to look at is IAC valve. I know a bad idle air control valve will create a vacuum leak situation which the computer cannot regulate with a bad valve, can also be why your running rich as the computer is trying to compensate for the extra air by enriching the fuel mixture. Good luck 👍🏾 keep focus on the goal.
Make sure you check vaccuum lines or adjust throttlebody (if possible). I had an issue with my car dying when coming to stop after it warmed up because the engine was essentially getting choked out from not getting enough air.
My car does the same thing! ill have to check those!
vacuum leak + unmetered air with the afm makes these issues on maf based cars @@joshuasutton5019
Update: you were correct, found a hole in the intercooler pipe lol
Just a LS guy saving one Sr at a time 🫡
love seeing the details of the turbo swap! always cool to see how stuff gets routed around to fit
I think it's f'n cool how you and your girl Franzie have 240's and the fact that she does work on the cars with you. Keep the great content coming bro!!
23:36 - Dont judge me
You was the reason why i got to the commands to shame someone... SO SHAME ON YOU
dont act like you didnt click on it
@@dominickrass8473
Could also be the IAC ( idle air control valve ) near the throttle body.
Also could be a large vaccum leak or a larg intake leak.
you must be bribing the winter or something i swear, count the days mike, soon your coolant will freeze 🥶
I swear it stills looks so great outside in his videos. Here it's freezing cold and rainy everyday and it feels like we're getting only a couple of hours of daylight
I haven't been able to put a single hour of work on my car even tho it absolutely needs to be ready to send to paint before the end of this year...
62 degrees tdy lol
I’m in Florida thank god #904
@@imnotain wisco it was 60* out today sun goes down at 5pm tho😭
Its literally called antifreeze because it doesn’t freeze😐
Always good to see franzy's 240 getting some work done hell yeah
love it bro. keep killing it!
🙏💙
5:06 be careful with those restrictor fittings, they strip and cross thread super easy. mine stripped on my B20 vtec build
24:38 Midnight Club plate frame
Mike I was watching your videos about 4 months ago and I saw you weld the oil pan of the 300zx after cleaning it with brake clean and when brake clean reaches a certain temperature it creates a gas that can be fatal if your exposed to it often the best and most safe thing you can use is acetone
Brake clean is safe to do so, if you let it air out. Brake clean dont leave a residue since its about 55% acetone to the weight, and it evaporates.
@@FluePeakyeah but if there is any left even a tiny bit it is extremely dangerous
@@QuattroWayne meh, your talking about so little that it is irrelevant. Even if it’s left it would evaporate as fast as the engine reaching any higher temps
The new green can formula of brake clean doesn’t do that when heated. The green cans are mostly acetone.
That was an issue with the older red cans, which are made with mostly Tetrachloroethylene. The red cans are getting harder to find nowadays anyway
Still not a good idea to weld with brake clean tho
@@SharpieEasternn yeh I'm sure he knows I just said incase he didn't because I remember getting really sick when I was doing my old Nissan blue birds frame rails I found out from my doctor so it's good to know just incase
For the steel gaskets Mike there’s a saying when in doubt bevel out good to seen all the cars getting love
I had a similar dying issue in my s13. Turned put to be the cluster. It was doing the same thing, all ancillary gauges worked, but the tach an speedo read all the way to the right. Swapped clusters an it went away.
Wow never heard of such an issue.
07:56 gasket orientation doesn't matter cause itll flatted out when you torque bolts anyways. HOWEEVER. since the turbo down pipe gasket is directional (from its shape) look at the orientation of the crush lip on that down pipe gasket when installed, in relation to the flow of exhaust gasses. this will give you an idea for what the engineer intended for the crush washer orientation via the flow of exhaust gases.
Great idea!
22:39 it's so funny to me that I live in Montana and never see anything like this, but then i'll watch youtube videos and see these sick imports rocking the plates.
Great vid, I love the in depth explanation videos, those are my favorite to watch!
just bought one of your hoodies, i love it, first time buying merch from a youtuber lol, congrats on how far you have come, cant wait for 200k
Nice job, always satisfying to put new parts together ❤
At least your winters seem to have a bit of sunshine. Over here it's gray Nov-May --and it's not even winter yet!!!
Love the Prizza Jams playlist! But what’s the outro song
Used to you - thisistoodifficult
@@quentin9120 thank you!
Mike do you have a Blow off valve on your car? BOV's make maf cars run super rich and can cause the stalling you see after load. my z32 used to do that until i went back to re-circulation valves.
No BOV at all!
Keep up what your doing my guy, you're doing the lords work keeping these S chassis' rolling! Stoked to see you in the Gloria too buddy! Also, shout out to franzy
Adjust your base idle set screw. I had the same problem with my 3000gt years ago and that was the fix.
When i got my skyline it would do this. The MAF was bad, the solder on the pins was braking.
either vac leaks, or your idle air control valve, also could double check your tps is ohming within range
I ran into a similar issue with a wrx. The BOV was causing some sort of weird vacuum issue and would kill the car in the exact same way. Swapped it out and worked perfect after.
I like how well explained you are. I’m terrible at explaining things lol. Motivating man!
Yes Mike yet another awesome video! Love all your content and I finally downloaded the song at the end of your videos❤ keep up the good work boi
My sr car died pulling up to lights because of a minor vacuum leak in my wastegate line. Not sure if you checked that just a thought. Replaced my Maf, coolant temp, o2 and some other shit. Replaced the line and it was perfect
That thumbnail killed me 😂 glad we are getting so much time before the cold.
It started up right away bf you cycled the key with the plugs out to prime the oil in the turbo
Great job! I really like watching your videos and the content is always engaging, however each video I expect to see you starting the paint job for your project cars but it never happens :D Oh well, will wait for that day and until then - still continue watching and expecting... :)
Soooo nice seeing you assemble the turbo together 🔥
mike. new wiring harness and a standalone for frans car. this will help all of your issues, while ordering the harness get a link monsoon, best bang for buck and with ordering the harness you can have them tailor the harness to that setup. and NO MORE MAF go to map sensor!
look into the idle control valve they act up also giving them a clean might help
awesome job! BTW, love that door chime on the 240! never heard it before haha
Check the tps,and iacv.had the same issue on a nissan before and ended up being a tps.
Nice little custom exhaust with smokes welds would be sick for franzies 240
Classic SR20 things, if you don’t have that BOV looping back into the intake the stock ecu spazes out. Gotta get some sort of tune for it
Car is sooo clean... That's all you need!!!
you know the cedric is the same chassis as the cima, Y33
Hondas tend to have that same issue of dying out after letting off throttle and its the iac valve. Maybe try checking that out?
Mike, I don't know if anyone has said this yet but this problem could because your MAF is too close to your Turbo. It might not be reading the air correctly because of a vortex of air by the turbo. Move the Maf away from the turbo.
The dying when putting the car in neutral could be there isnt enough airfkow going past the maf sensor. I was having that issue on my 240 and what was causing it was the intake boot was torn in between the trottle body and maf sensor so it wasnt getting a good reading
This is old but if you’re running stock ecu and have a BOV it’s gonna stall out after you let off throttle. Air that was supposed to be recirculated is being vented
Or there’s a boost leak in ic or intake.
Hopefully ya get it sorted
first time viewer, and i loooove your presenting style. knowledgeable, informative, humble with logcal processes.. exactly how i view things.. but idk how you dont open and inspect deliveries before usage?! i would geek out item over quality in my personal time 😂😂
my dad had the same stalling probled, the mechanic unplugged the sensor and it ran good without stalling
Love the new turbo setup! also I had a oddidty with by SR diyng when there was a vacuum leak on the throttle body.
Your videos are always a banger Mike!
Mike could it be the idle air control valve or something throttle body related?
you and your girl look soo cute riding around in her tuner mobile. keep up the awesome videos coming.
my kaT has the same stalling issue ive given up trying to fix it just downshift everytime i drive it so it wont die. cant wait to see if you figure it out so i dont have to anymore
My golf mk4 had the same issue it was the coolant sensor that was causing the engine to flick around and slowly dying when on neutral
i am jealous on SOOOO many levels!!!!!!!...... happy for you both!
z32 maf seems to be the move on the 240! common sr20 issues, luckilly yours stays at least running on idle, but it sounds like the MAF is a goner
Try the evap purge valve if it's still dyeing
Check for vacuum leaks. If you don't have a plug for boost leak testing they are easy to make and would be good content.
Check the IACV that is most likely the issue causing it to die out I had the same issue with my TT Z32 I'm also in IL
you guys are soooooo fn lucky to still have a manual car was locally. all of mine have been torn down and replaced with automated drive through washes. hate it!!!!
Id test the bov being after the afm theory first , being the blow off valve is releasing measured air causing a super rich condition which the iac cannot send enough air to counter for . Either adjust your bov to super hard so it doesn't open as easily, or confirm it by blocking the bov port completely and retesting
Currently running no bov
@@PrizzaMike ohms test the iac would be the next test I would perform , if you can bring up live data to confirm o2 sensor is within range , aside from fitting a known good one .
Another amazing video, keep it up prizza!
I'm not sure you needed the factory gasket if those adapter flanges had o-rings on both sides, depending on the material they should be able to hold up to the heat. Also I have done a few t28 turbo swaps, and almost always had to heat the dp and put a small dent where it was contacting with the block.
I hope you continue to keep making your videos like this as you grow bigger, You explain things extremely well and it’s super entertaining at the same time🤙
Dying after load sounds like the problem I was having with my crankshaft position sensor. When tletting the car coast for a while, it would die as soon as I press down the clutch. I dont know enough about these engines to know if it has one of those sensors though
its funny coming back to this video months later knowing there's a massive hole in that intercooler pipe causing all the issues the car has been experiencing and not the turbo or coolant temp sensor. like, imagine if it didn't get so dark so early. you might have noticed the hole when you checked it in the parking lot after the first test drive
Bro laterally my car us N/A and doing the same. On the code reader it says p0600. just says missing link to ecm. cuts out when driving,. if i turn it off and on and pop it in second off I go again, sometimes jerks.. need to look into it tomorrow. great vid keep it up!!
Bendaga had the same issue with his 1997 Civic hatchback, he cleaned out the throttle body and it fixed the issue.
Dude that Yakuza Nissan at thee end, holy smokes!!! I'm golad my wife is not the only one with such an irrational fear of every spider haha. It's all good that's what your partner is there for right?
Having a massive air leak before or right after the o2 will cause it to stall. You only had 2 bolts in a 5 bolt flange. This includes pre turbo leaks also.
Blow off valve re-circulated? That could be why it dies out after a shift
Wow I really like how you both own two very cool looking 240sx’s I really like the rims on hers
Your iacv would also cause that symptom ( the stalling out)
sick video! cant wait for the next one :D
Hey Mike, try to replace the tps, iac valve - maybe that is the issue.
amazing conent fr, it gives me so much more drive to work on my own car
could be the timing chain.. tensioner??
Don’t know if you resolved the dying, but if it’s only when you are post-acceleration, the BOV can be passing air, and the stock ECU will still be dumping fuel, flooding it. I have that issue. Solution is to get an ECU that fuels off TPS, or just don’t do that :-)
DAMN THAT SIMA THOOOO ur gloria will look sick aff when its done too
I had the same problem with my s13 died after a pull and letting go of the gas. I has to turn up the idle even tho the car ran om idle. Hope this helps👍
Dude your Gloria is gonna be as sick if not better then that vepoo from Japan parked with you !!!! That Gloria is so badass dude you got your sick cruiser vip style
I'd re calibrate your tps my s13 did the same thing and it was because my tps was out of calibration
increased the idle on the biss screw by the throttle body ...😁
Crank position sensor maybe 🤔
I’m loving the work you’re doing for her 240, thank you for always make the night the best!🫡
Love your vids bro💯
Maf sensor or IAC idel air control 🤔
I will wait the day when nissan get's new paint on 🙈keep it going mike😎
Yoooo heck yeah !!!! I’m pumped
My car use to die like that all the time I refreshed all the intake gasket and vacuum lines and made a huge difference
I have a NA sr and man I use to hate it when it would just die i used to get so embarrassed 😭
She's such a lucky girl to have you as her boyfriend. That's awesome that your fixing it for her much love, respect and appreciation for you, PizzaMike
I think u jot the nail in the coffin ecu
SR good, sr always good!
Those Tomei exhaust manifolds always crack, that's probably the only part from them I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole.
Let's go BOYZ. Mikes back to the daily grind #DailyReel
I know it's not your style or the kind of content you do on your channel, but I really want to see a clean build with the Gloria. A build where all panels are same color, wheels are new, new tires, some decent suspension and something more "showroom" quality and not backyard engineering. I know you can do this type of work.
I had a problem with the car stalling like that it turns out my speed sensor plug was loose and just plugging it in fixed it
Check the coil packs
Could be the fuel pump relay
I am your only fan that watches the videos in Vr 😂😂 thank you for the great video buddy be safe