Hey there, just want to say wow & thanks for the info you posted up on ClubLexus and the detail you've gone into with your modification. I'm still going through watching the videos (mostly familiar with the process anyway) but just taking some time to appreciate how in depth you've gone with actually showing the parts, pieces and sources for all your stuff. Things as simple as showing what a bleed plate is and the physical look of the piston differences, and step by step for disassembly with the tools that regular joe can get. All great work.
Thank you for the kind words. Just trying to help. Im contemplating making a step by step tutorial video of the math behind determining critical damping, motion ratios etc. Not sure yet.
hello Again, I have followed all you post at clublexus and am nearly done... would you mind to contact me via mail for a pair of questions? I dont know how to send pm in youtube. thank you very much
Frugal_Fabrication thank you very much again. I have all the math work done. now am getting messed with the dynos dont know wich is better or worst. understood the 65% but...
Super informative, i have a chance to purchase a set of the BC coilovers for like 80$ but one of them have a broken shaft, do you know where one can buy replacement shaft and what alternative shaft one can use?
Hi, as for a broken shaft that is hard to say as I feel the shafts are almost exclusive to only the BC racing coilovers in that exact length of shock you have. Unfortunately, you may have to buy 1 new replacement BC racing shock insert for ~$65 to $70 USD.
Out of purchasing the replacement parts, the Bilstein pistons were the most expensive at approximately $20 per piston for each shock ( considering I bought the old 699 style Bilstein piston which like better that their new COB style) and the Nitrogen tank kit with hoses/valve was $79. Google “DIY SHOCK REVALVE CLUBLEXUS” and read through my 50 page step-by step tutorial with math and shock calculations and all…I believe I detailed where I bought all the items from (with weblinks) and how much they were.
Hello i was curious about your bump stop comment ... Do you recommend 14 mm koni. For a daily use or for track use or inbetween .. And was it a linear. Pregressive soft bump stop ... I bottom out andd need more traval which u stated please and thankyou for any reaponse
To be honest, I dont remember. But I did catalogue/journal all my findings, info, and graphs in the clublexus post. Type in google “diy shock revalve” and click in the clublexus link. The bump stop graph should be there.
If I want to drive 5/4 Springs on BRs that had 10/8 Springs, would I need to revalve? Or if I just plop on the springs, does it have bad effects? 10/8 is just bouncing around so I need to find something softer (very much softer, 10/8 is undrivable with the roads here)
@@juliusme3818 how did this turn out for you? Did the new softer springs need to be longer in free length because they would compress more than your old spring under identical loads. Wouldn't you lose damper travel if they were the same length because of this?
Have you ever torn down an old HKS hipermax D damper? The top seal doesn’t unscrew. Wondering how it’s separated from the body. Has holes for spanner wrench but just spins.
bmxunderground2 i know the damper you speak of, but unfortunately I have never opened it. Take a look at “REsuspension’s” website page they may have some spare parts just in case you need to destroy portions of that shock to get access to the internal parts. They have several high in shock performance parts for the internal and External portions of shocks
bmxunderground2 anytime man. Please chime in with your findings, as I am interested as well. At the RE suspensions website you may be able to find a different shock part manufacturer that will work with your hyper max shocks.
Frugal_Fabrication I found a photo of one torn down from a Russian website. It looks like the seal cap is threaded onto a floating seal that sits below the C clip. Sucks because I can’t tell how in the world he was able to secure that part. The translation roughly sounds like he gassed up the lower port to 300psi which put enough pressure on the top seal against the C clip to prevent it from spinning so the top cap could unscrew from it. That just seems janky. I’ll have to post a link so you can see what I’m looking at and get your thoughts.
I've been looking for awhile and can't seem to find the RM-series teardown that you've referenced on the clublexus writeup. I'm getting coilovers for an MR2 AW11 (the gs450h can wait for now :D) and I'd like to go for the supposedly less flexy inverted package, as the car is using struts (macPherson) all around. Do you have any leads on this? Thanks!
@@majanboo22 I'll let you know if I find anything, haven't given up on it just yet... I'll take my time with the research :) Thanks for the prompt reply!!!
So i have the BC racing BR coilovers. First one of my front strut went bad so i replaced it. Now i just add the anti-sway bars and literally a soon i put the car down and drove for less than 3 miles the rear strut went bad. Both bad strut were on the same side (driver side). Anyhow, how they went bad was it leaked most of the oil out. How do i fix this issue. I want to rebuild them, and also revalve them as well. What parts do i need to change to prevent it from leaking again? What are the benefits of revalving?
Frugal_Fabrication Let me just explain my situation and maybe you can point me in the right direction or give me your opinion. Previously I had a 2007 Accord and purchased brand new BC coilovers, I fell in love with the ride comfort. They were great for the 6 years that I had the car. I recently purchased a 2013 Accord and found a great deal on used BC coilovers with camber plates. I don’t know it’s history besides the obvious things. I noticed when installing them there was no pre load set. I adjusted my ride height to the point where there is no wheel to fender gap. As soon as I went for a test drive it felt like if I had them on full stiff, I lowered it to the softest setting and the ride still felt harsh. Going over bumps at normal speeds there was no abnormal noises. When coming out of a driveway or going over bumps in a parking lot I can hear allow squeaking and a bit of clunking. I torqued down the 17mm on the strunt and also the upper camber bolts. I then read there are also bolts on the bottom of the plate which I will check tomorrow. I also spoke to BC and they said to do a shock function test which I will be performing shortly. Would the best option be to upgrade them with bilstein Internals like you did or what would be your opinion? I’m mostly interested in ride comfort. Thanks again, I appreciate what you have done for the community.
+DRFPV as I read what you posted, I immediately Thought, what if the last guy that owned your used coilovers requested for much higher damped shock inserts from BC racing. And after driving on it for a while realized he was not happy with his custom requested selection. So now you got a deal on these coil overs sets but I’m not sure if the shock insert was specifically valid for your Honda accord from factory and not a custom requested shock. I hate to say it but unless you’re into tinkering and tweaking your best bet may be to request for two new front and rear shocks from BC racing for your specific vehicle.
Frugal_Fabrication thanks for the info, I’m going to call BC maybe with the serial number they can tell me if it was custom or stock. Also depending how the shock function test turns out I’ll see if I decide to take on this project and just probably adjusting the rebound shims could help me get where I need. After reading your post on club Lexus everything makes more sense to me. If not I think I’ll just pass them on and go for some tein street advance I hear good things about them for my specific car. I’m not really looking for performance, just a nice lowered comfortable car.
Frugal_Fabrication after speaking to a few people that own 9th gen accords, that have experience with BC either end up switching to tein or deal with the stiffness to go lower.
I wonder if I were to just change out the shock oil, and refill the NO2, if that would "stiffen" the dampening ability a bit from the stock setup on my BC coils...
I would definitely say yes it would. But keep in mind that when the oil/shock gets hot after heavy use/driving the oils viscosity will change and the oil will flow more freely again (could still be less than the original BC racing shock fluid). I would make the changes to the shock at the shims, but if money and equipment was an issue I wouldn’t have minded testing out changing to a thicker (or thinner depending on what you want) oil to get different shock results.
Frugal_Fabrication Now the question is whether the bc racing coils measure the same internally, as I looked into the digressive piston you used, and the sizing threw me off a bit. But, would have to try out the shims as you mentioned first...
+Dio Pena the BC racing coil over cartridge for the Lexus GS 300 1st generation and I think other Lexus’ used a 46 mm internal piston with more restriction on the rebound orifice holes. This equated to more for their factory piston on the rebound side with using less shifts because the holes were smaller.
Gotcha... I'd have to disassemble my coilovers, and measure the piston to make sure I then order the correct sized Bilstein piston, but, as a first attempt, I'll probably rebuild/refill the shock as they are for now, with 10W shock oil. And then figure out where i can get NO2. So, I'm practically just opening mine up, letting the NO2 out, dumping the old oil, refilling with 10w shock oil, and rebuild, fill up NO2, just to see while I get the proper pistons. *I was told that BC BR coils may have different sized pistons.
Ive done this at least 7-10 times on one shock insert/cartridge. This is a thought that just came to mind... If I ever in the future run into a problem with the rubber seal sealing, I may use a q-tip/cotton swab with the end soaked in solvent (gasoline, mineral spirits, etc.) and lightly rub the q-tip/cotton swab head onto the inside (outside might work too) of the self-healing rubber seal in hopes the rubber would slightly swell up and close up all the previous needle piercing points/paths. Keep in mind I have not tried this yet...so I cannot verify that it works 100%. I hope this explanation makes sense.
I think I chose the weight from an off road forum during the research period. I was afraid if I chose too thin I would have to rely solely on precisely tuning the shock shim stacks to get the needed forces. Considering it was my 1st time revalving, my thoughts were if the oil was not super thin(high viscosity), then it would allow for less quantity of shims stacks due to the drag of the thicker oil. I was nervous in my initial selection, as shock dynoing is not cheap. But it all worked out in the end.
REsuspension may be able to help you with some of the items. There are other online shock parts stores I listed in the “clublexus revalve tutorial”. Check this link and I think the list of stores is near the bottom of this “post #9”. www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/770149-diy-shock-revalve-parts-1-3-a.html#post8860594
Kene, I can't PM you, your inbox is full... Here's the specs you asked for the SC300 Here's what i measured... Front LCA 21.5CM from Strut mount to camber bol (used middle of both bolts) Rear 36.7 Mount to ball join 11.5 front 7.7 rear lca to ball joint 35.5 front 42.5 rear 72degree angle on rear.
Hey there, just want to say wow & thanks for the info you posted up on ClubLexus and the detail you've gone into with your modification. I'm still going through watching the videos (mostly familiar with the process anyway) but just taking some time to appreciate how in depth you've gone with actually showing the parts, pieces and sources for all your stuff.
Things as simple as showing what a bleed plate is and the physical look of the piston differences, and step by step for disassembly with the tools that regular joe can get. All great work.
Thank you for the kind words. Just trying to help. Im contemplating making a step by step tutorial video of the math behind determining critical damping, motion ratios etc. Not sure yet.
Ran into this somehow. You sir, are a freaking beast.
Thanks man. Make sure to Subscribe as I have many more cool things to show. 👍🏾
My boy Kene For the Win!
JOEY C Thanks for the props man!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH For your incredible post at clublexus. thank you.
No problem. Glad to help.
hello Again, I have followed all you post at clublexus and am nearly done... would you mind to contact me via mail for a pair of questions? I dont know how to send pm in youtube. thank you very much
+Andrew s2k I will try and create and list a contact email to reach me at the top of the first post in clublexus in a few hours or by tomorrow.
Frugal_Fabrication thank you very much again. I have all the math work done. now am getting messed with the dynos dont know wich is better or worst. understood the 65% but...
I cant understand how you fill your data into the curve you downloaded from ohlins so you can then look what sims you need at bilstein manuals
Excellent video series!
Thank you very much.
Super informative, i have a chance to purchase a set of the BC coilovers for like 80$ but one of them have a broken shaft, do you know where one can buy replacement shaft and what alternative shaft one can use?
Hi, as for a broken shaft that is hard to say as I feel the shafts are almost exclusive to only the BC racing coilovers in that exact length of shock you have.
Unfortunately, you may have to buy 1 new replacement BC racing shock insert for ~$65 to $70 USD.
@@majanboo22 Thanks mate, cheers.
this is a brilliant video
Thank you.
Based on this rebuild, how much would you say you spent all in all after purchasing the replacement parts and necessary tools?
Out of purchasing the replacement parts, the Bilstein pistons were the most expensive at approximately $20 per piston for each shock ( considering I bought the old 699 style Bilstein piston which like better that their new COB style) and the Nitrogen tank kit with hoses/valve was $79.
Google “DIY SHOCK REVALVE CLUBLEXUS” and read through my 50 page step-by step tutorial with math and shock calculations and all…I believe I detailed where I bought all the items from (with weblinks) and how much they were.
Hello i was curious about your bump stop comment ... Do you recommend 14 mm koni. For a daily use or for track use or inbetween .. And was it a linear. Pregressive soft bump stop ... I bottom out andd need more traval which u stated please and thankyou for any reaponse
To be honest, I dont remember. But I did catalogue/journal all my findings, info, and graphs in the clublexus post. Type in google “diy shock revalve” and click in the clublexus link. The bump stop graph should be there.
If I want to drive 5/4 Springs on BRs that had 10/8 Springs, would I need to revalve? Or if I just plop on the springs, does it have bad effects?
10/8 is just bouncing around so I need to find something softer (very much softer, 10/8 is undrivable with the roads here)
If it were me, I would try the 5/4 springs before tearing everything apart for a revalve. Who knows, you may be very happy with the results.
Frugal_Fabrication Okay thanks! If it wont work for me atleast I have a tutorial to follow
@@juliusme3818 how did this turn out for you? Did the new softer springs need to be longer in free length because they would compress more than your old spring under identical loads. Wouldn't you lose damper travel if they were the same length because of this?
D4ve1985 asked BC for prices and ended up just buying new ones and throwimg the old ones away. Not worth the hassle for saving like 50$
@@juliusme3818 were the springs noticeably longer in the 5/4 set than your old ones?
Have you ever torn down an old HKS hipermax D damper? The top seal doesn’t unscrew. Wondering how it’s separated from the body. Has holes for spanner wrench but just spins.
bmxunderground2 i know the damper you speak of, but unfortunately I have never opened it.
Take a look at “REsuspension’s” website page they may have some spare parts just in case you need to destroy portions of that shock to get access to the internal parts.
They have several high in shock performance parts for the internal and External portions of shocks
Thank you for the quick reply I will check out their site in just a moment.
bmxunderground2 anytime man. Please chime in with your findings, as I am interested as well.
At the RE suspensions website you may be able to find a different shock part manufacturer that will work with your hyper max shocks.
Frugal_Fabrication I found a photo of one torn down from a Russian website. It looks like the seal cap is threaded onto a floating seal that sits below the C clip. Sucks because I can’t tell how in the world he was able to secure that part. The translation roughly sounds like he gassed up the lower port to 300psi which put enough pressure on the top seal against the C clip to prevent it from spinning so the top cap could unscrew from it. That just seems janky. I’ll have to post a link so you can see what I’m looking at and get your thoughts.
Here's a video of an older HKS being torn down. Mine did not have this hex screw in the top cap: th-cam.com/video/I7hxBY2dZC8/w-d-xo.html
I've been looking for awhile and can't seem to find the RM-series teardown that you've referenced on the clublexus writeup. I'm getting coilovers for an MR2 AW11 (the gs450h can wait for now :D) and I'd like to go for the supposedly less flexy inverted package, as the car is using struts (macPherson) all around. Do you have any leads on this? Thanks!
I just searched and unfortunately I cannot find the BC racing nissan RM coilover teardown post anymore. I used google to try and find it.
@@majanboo22 I'll let you know if I find anything, haven't given up on it just yet... I'll take my time with the research :)
Thanks for the prompt reply!!!
@@SpiritLwerewolf Anytime.
@@SpiritLwerewolf oh yeah! Please let us all know if you find the BC Racing inverted RM forum page/link.
Many thanks.
@@majanboo22 I'll search a bit more, but it looks like I might be getting a lathe... I guess you know where that's going :D
So i have the BC racing BR coilovers. First one of my front strut went bad so i replaced it. Now i just add the anti-sway bars and literally a soon i put the car down and drove for less than 3 miles the rear strut went bad. Both bad strut were on the same side (driver side). Anyhow, how they went bad was it leaked most of the oil out. How do i fix this issue.
I want to rebuild them, and also revalve them as well. What parts do i need to change to prevent it from leaking again? What are the benefits of revalving?
rohan smiley google my tutorial “DIY SHOCK REVALVE” . It is on the clublexus website.
It ha s several step by step pictures and data.
rohan smiley where exactly was it leaking from? Top of shock at shaft?
or
bottom base of shock?
Yo can you help me out on where u got the piston shim etc
If you go to my clublexus tutorial (Google “DIY Shock revalve Part 1-3 clublexus”) It will list where I ordered all my part, tools, etc from online.
Great diy I really appreciate it. What do I need to buy if I want to keep it BC Internals?
Could you explain more in detail what you mean by “ keeping it BC internals”?
Do you mean rebuild worn out BC dampers using the same internals?
Frugal_Fabrication Let me just explain my situation and maybe you can point me in the right direction or give me your opinion.
Previously I had a 2007 Accord and purchased brand new BC coilovers, I fell in love with the ride comfort. They were great for the 6 years that I had the car.
I recently purchased a 2013 Accord and found a great deal on used BC coilovers with camber plates. I don’t know it’s history besides the obvious things. I noticed when installing them there was no pre load set. I adjusted my ride height to the point where there is no wheel to fender gap. As soon as I went for a test drive it felt like if I had them on full stiff, I lowered it to the softest setting and the ride still felt harsh. Going over bumps at normal speeds there was no abnormal noises. When coming out of a driveway or going over bumps in a parking lot I can hear allow squeaking and a bit of clunking. I torqued down the 17mm on the strunt and also the upper camber bolts. I then read there are also bolts on the bottom of the plate which I will check tomorrow. I also spoke to BC and they said to do a shock function test which I will be performing shortly.
Would the best option be to upgrade them with bilstein Internals like you did or what would be your opinion? I’m mostly interested in ride comfort. Thanks again, I appreciate what you have done for the community.
+DRFPV as I read what you posted, I immediately Thought, what if the last guy that owned your used coilovers requested for much higher damped shock inserts from BC racing. And after driving on it for a while realized he was not happy with his custom requested selection.
So now you got a deal on these coil overs sets but I’m not sure if the shock insert was specifically valid for your Honda accord from factory and not a custom requested shock.
I hate to say it but unless you’re into tinkering and tweaking your best bet may be to request for two new front and rear shocks from BC racing for your specific vehicle.
Frugal_Fabrication thanks for the info, I’m going to call BC maybe with the serial number they can tell me if it was custom or stock. Also depending how the shock function test turns out I’ll see if I decide to take on this project and just probably adjusting the rebound shims could help me get where I need. After reading your post on club Lexus everything makes more sense to me. If not I think I’ll just pass them on and go for some tein street advance I hear good things about them for my specific car. I’m not really looking for performance, just a nice lowered comfortable car.
Frugal_Fabrication after speaking to a few people that own 9th gen accords, that have experience with BC either end up switching to tein or deal with the stiffness to go lower.
I wonder if I were to just change out the shock oil, and refill the NO2, if that would "stiffen" the dampening ability a bit from the stock setup on my BC coils...
I would definitely say yes it would. But keep in mind that when the oil/shock gets hot after heavy use/driving the oils viscosity will change and the oil will flow more freely again (could still be less than the original BC racing shock fluid).
I would make the changes to the shock at the shims, but if money and equipment was an issue I wouldn’t have minded testing out changing to a thicker (or thinner depending on what you want) oil to get different shock results.
Frugal_Fabrication
Now the question is whether the bc racing coils measure the same internally, as I looked into the digressive piston you used, and the sizing threw me off a bit.
But, would have to try out the shims as you mentioned first...
+Dio Pena the BC racing coil over cartridge for the Lexus GS 300 1st generation and I think other Lexus’ used a 46 mm internal piston with more restriction on the rebound orifice holes. This equated to more for their factory piston on the rebound side with using less shifts because the holes were smaller.
+Frugal_Fabrication *more force; *less shims
Gotcha... I'd have to disassemble my coilovers, and measure the piston to make sure I then order the correct sized Bilstein piston, but, as a first attempt, I'll probably rebuild/refill the shock as they are for now, with 10W shock oil. And then figure out where i can get NO2. So, I'm practically just opening mine up, letting the NO2 out, dumping the old oil, refilling with 10w shock oil, and rebuild, fill up NO2, just to see while I get the proper pistons.
*I was told that BC BR coils may have different sized pistons.
Do you think d2 coilovers be similar? Might want to try this for my s2000
Quite possibly, try buying 1 new spare insert/cartridge and see if it is built similar.
Will you offer this as a service by chance?
zazzn Hmm.... maybe. Not precisely sure as of currently. I’m still thinking about it.
How many times you can punch the self healing valve until this does not heal anymore?
Ive done this at least 7-10 times on one shock insert/cartridge.
This is a thought that just came to mind...
If I ever in the future run into a problem with the rubber seal sealing, I may use a q-tip/cotton swab with the end soaked in solvent (gasoline, mineral spirits, etc.) and lightly rub the q-tip/cotton swab head onto the inside (outside might work too) of the self-healing rubber seal in hopes the rubber would slightly swell up and close up all the previous needle piercing points/paths.
Keep in mind I have not tried this yet...so I cannot verify that it works 100%.
I hope this explanation makes sense.
Hey, any particular reason you chose 10wt oil instead of others? Thanks!
I think I chose the weight from an off road forum during the research period. I was afraid if I chose too thin I would have to rely solely on precisely tuning the shock shim stacks to get the needed forces. Considering it was my 1st time revalving, my thoughts were if the oil was not super thin(high viscosity), then it would allow for less quantity of shims stacks due to the drag of the thicker oil.
I was nervous in my initial selection, as shock dynoing is not cheap. But it all worked out in the end.
hello everyone, does anyone know the site to purchase parts for repairing the blistein B16 kit
REsuspension may be able to help you with some of the items. There are other online shock parts stores I listed in the “clublexus revalve tutorial”. Check this link and I think the list of stores is near the bottom of this “post #9”.
www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-1st-gen-1993-1997/770149-diy-shock-revalve-parts-1-3-a.html#post8860594
@@majanboo22
ok, thank you very much for your help, I will keep looking. Thanks for the suggestion.
Kene, I can't PM you, your inbox is full... Here's the specs you asked for the SC300
Here's what i measured...
Front LCA 21.5CM from Strut mount to camber bol (used middle of both bolts)
Rear 36.7
Mount to ball join
11.5 front
7.7 rear
lca to ball joint
35.5 front
42.5 rear
72degree angle on rear.
zazzn
please PM with this information pasted. There should be space now, I also responded.
👍
RayXLaced Thanks.
Kene, Check email i sent it again
Thank you. I responded.