I like to put axles & nails into the chuck of my cordless drill. I bought this synthetic fabric that is supposed to act like steel wool. I pull the trigger of the drill with one hand and apply pressure with the fabric on the nail / axle and can always polish it up really nice. I also highly recommend getting a brass brush if you don't have one already.
Pitting can be filled in by melting tin into the holes using a small torch. The melting point of zinc is much higher than that of tin, so you don't need to worry about that. Also, a torch is useful in annealing the zinc before you attempt to straighten bent parts. Lessens the chance of cracking or pieces snapping off. If you want to get into it, you can use the printed plastic part as a sacrificial mold in zinc casting. Then you can tin solder the piece into place, thus ending up with a much nicer, and more professional restoration.
These old toys are usually a lead alloy with a very low melting point. There is no zinc in these that I am aware of. Adding a torch is a recipe for disaster. I've tried. It always ends up in a melted or warped part. What you are describing is also extremely difficult even with modern diecast toys. I'm sure it is possible, but it is outside my skill set. While I like your idea of the printed part being used for a mold, it is also much harder than you describe. Many molds will not set due to the resin used in the 3D print. Additionally, casting zinc to a nice finish is very difficult and soldering two zinc parts with tin solder is almost impossible without specialized tools.
Great save! Planes are not my thing, but it was very interesting to watch. Cheers!
Fun save!
Nice work on the Tootsietoy Fighter jet, It almost reminds me of Matchbox's Skybusters only in a Tootsietoy Version.
Excellent restoration, the paint looks brilliant
I like to put axles & nails into the chuck of my cordless drill. I bought this synthetic fabric that is supposed to act like steel wool. I pull the trigger of the drill with one hand and apply pressure with the fabric on the nail / axle and can always polish it up really nice. I also highly recommend getting a brass brush if you don't have one already.
Interesting that this aircraft that looks like an F-80 Shooting Star is called an F9F Panther in your book, an aircraft that looks nothing like this.
I wonder if the book if wrong
Pitting can be filled in by melting tin into the holes using a small torch. The melting point of zinc is much higher than that of tin, so you don't need to worry about that.
Also, a torch is useful in annealing the zinc before you attempt to straighten bent parts. Lessens the chance of cracking or pieces snapping off.
If you want to get into it, you can use the printed plastic part as a sacrificial mold in zinc casting. Then you can tin solder the piece into place, thus ending up with a much nicer, and more professional restoration.
These old toys are usually a lead alloy with a very low melting point. There is no zinc in these that I am aware of. Adding a torch is a recipe for disaster. I've tried. It always ends up in a melted or warped part. What you are describing is also extremely difficult even with modern diecast toys. I'm sure it is possible, but it is outside my skill set.
While I like your idea of the printed part being used for a mold, it is also much harder than you describe. Many molds will not set due to the resin used in the 3D print. Additionally, casting zinc to a nice finish is very difficult and soldering two zinc parts with tin solder is almost impossible without specialized tools.