I'd like to especially thank Joe from Dark Arts Astrophotography for the use of the image at 3:10 in this video. I initially didn't realise it was his image but I think it's very important to acknowledge the original owner of material. Thanks a lot Joe for the use of your image. Check out his awesome work and a great link to his article regarding the use of crop sensor cameras vs full frame here: darkartsastro.ca/full-frame-vs-crop-sensor-is-full-frame-worth-the-extra-cost/
@@nightscapeimages.richard I saw an old building under a nearly full moon early one morning. It turned out well, lighting and composition wise, but when I got home and put it on my computer I could see the noise. So I went back at the same time the next morning and set it to ISO 100 and the sky looked A LOT better. No noise discernible to the eye. In each case I had to use a tripod so using the higher ISO simply doesn't make sense. Why use ISO 3200 in your case? It's better to not have the noise in the first place so one doesn't have to reduce it via software later. Most of the post-production stuff people do could be avoided if they put a little more thought into things when out shooting photos. One thing that strikes me is that I see people doing stuff on the computer, many times spending significant amounts of time, that could be done by spending just a few seconds considering things when taking the photo itself.
@@Anon54387 Thanks a lot for watching and for leaving a comment. Your shooting scenario is very different to this example as you had a "nearly full moon". I challenge you to go out and try that when there is no moon in the sky and see how many stars you can capture at iso100. That is a very much considered comment coming from many years of nightscape experience.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I'll give that a shot on the 26th as there will be no moon. I take it I won't be able to see many stars without upping the ISO. At least if I understood your comment correctly. Still, I do see people spending significant amounts of time doing stuff on the computer that could be avoided if different choices were made when taking the photo. I'd rather, if at all possible, to minimize time on the computer and spend more taking photos. Thanks for the reply. I wasn't expecting one, to be honest, with the volume on this channel. You must enjoy interacting with people. It seems you reply quite a lot. Edit: I just watched your video on focusing to infinity with that small cubby house. Not to beat a dead horse, but couldn't a person reduce the ISO to 100 and just use a bulb for a longer exposure so as to avoid the noise? Perhaps I'm not seeing the problem.
Thanks a lot Josh, yes I am very passionate about helping. Sometimes it's hard to get info because photographers often like to keep their info close to themselves.
now folks, this is a living testament to what pro's said about gears & skill.. give a pro photographer a kitlens & they will give you a topnotch output.. give a newbie a top of the line camera/lens & gives you an either underexposed or overexposed output.. Im a newbie as well, literally, bought last month nikon z6II as my first camera with 85mm & 35mm 1.8S lens..this video gives me a lot of insights in terms of gears/experience as on how to use what youve got in a given situation.. learned a lot from this video, will surely carry this knowledge until then.. 10/10
@@nightscapeimages.richard you're welcome sir! Btw, can you make an in depth tutorial for photo stacking panoramic astro using example 35mm lens..thank you!
@@nightscapeimages.richard actually im planning to get 20mm 1.8s for astro, but after i saw this video, i think i can use 35mm to stack panoramic astro to be able to recreate a 14mm image.. Im just a bit confused other video tutorials here in yt. Thank you so much!
As someone who's only just started, this is very inspiring. I have a Nikon cropped sensor camera (D5300) with the exact kit lens you used. You haven't baffled us newbies with tonnes of technical detail or used expensive camera, lens or lighting rigs. Keeping everything simple is paramount for us to succeed. As another poster stated, we can go back and re-watch the areas we need clarification on, so no need to apologise for running through the detail quickly. I will watch this over and over again. Thanks again. I've just subscribed.
Hi Richard I would of taken six dark frames to Help reduce the sencor heat noise :) I know its another step but one can really see the noise from the sencor around the corners of the frame in the sky images ! For those who are wondering how to do dark frames all you need to do is after you have taken your Sky images leave the camera settings the same just put the lens cap back on and take another six shoots before you start doing your light painting images ! Later in processing all you need to do is apply the same edit you have made to your sky images and export as Tiffs as you will be doing for your Sky then load them in the dark frame tab in Sequator
Its amazing how you helped beginners so instantly ..I'm one of the person who requested you to make something by the kitlens ..and here you go you did it better than anybody else ..thanks a lot sir ..gem of a guy ..
@@nightscapeimages.richard thank you mate ! You are amazing
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I've been watching astrophotography videos for a week. I've watched almost 10-15 videos in youtube and read articles three times more. Your video is the far best content i've ever seen. Thanks!
Thanks Marc. I knew when I produced it that I'd get some people saying it was too long but it's almost impossible to do a post processing video without it stretching out.
I have just gotten into the world of photography and your explanation as to how to do this is AMAZING! I cannot wait to give this a go and see how it turns out for me. Thank you!
I went to university and took bunch of photography classes, professors kept saying go shoot more and then printed them out on paper, hung on the wall and wasted more time to critique each other. Now this is straightforward teaching, Thank You very much.
Great tutorial for night photography that too a brilliant work with a kit lens and crop camera. Great encouragement to all photographers with a minimum gear! Thanks for the tutorial right from taking the images to processing them.
I was about to photograph the sky tonight at some abandoned farm hoping that the images get good without any editing, I have the G85 lumix and Leica 15mm 1.7mm lens, then while having the morning coffee my smart tv randomly suggest this video, and i havent watched similar vids in a while, But The video was the best ive seen for in this topic, Editing is truly Key and the result was amazing, Thanks alot, you got yourself a new subscriber. :-)
Can't believe I actually finish watching the entire video. I love shooting photos and I love searching for educational shooting related videos, but usually I can never ever finish watching those videos as they are soo soo boring. But this one is fun, meaningful, and straight to the point.
Just blew me away .. this came up on my feed and even though I never met you I instantly knew who you were. I was to go to one of your location shoots but unfortunately didn’t make it due to illness. But watching this was just like being there thank you Richard for your time. I have subbed and liked😀
Just looked at this vid for the 10th time - more I look the more I realise its utterly brilliant for those of us with "stock" cameras and lenses. Thank you so much for an explanation which makes such awesome photos possible.
wow what a great video. thanks so much for showing us beginners what we can achieve with our cropped sensor and kit lenses. and in a very easy to follow manner too. Subbed
First time viewer here. Loved the vid and thought the result was awesome. Hitting sub was a no brainer. Off to look at the rest of your vids now. Thanks for uploading.
Totally blown away by this video. I have recently purchased a Canon 77D (with 18-135, 50mm nifty fifty, upgrade from 1100D) and was gathering money for Samyang 14mm f/2.8 for astrophotography. I am new to star world and was relying on investing in better lens. However, your video gave me courage to try with what I already own. After watching your video multiple times, I am all set for my first astro shot. Big thumbs UP to your effort and guidance. Love from India!!!!!
Thank you for investing your time to make this for the people starting out, this realy helps getting folks more interested in photography without spending a fortune.
Impressive. particularly for me who doesn't have a prime lens with a wide aperture. But I really like to see a video with the milky way nearly in all its details with multiple images. Thank you
@@nightscapeimages.richard I tried it last weekend. Really nice tool, stacked 27x14s images which turned out pretty nicely. The remove light pollution option is pretty impressive imho.
Thank you, one million times. You are a perfect example of how the rest of the photography community should behave. Photographers become more and more toxic imho and you keep the good values of supporting each other. You have a whole lot of experience and knowledge and i am very thankful that you shared it with all of us. Have a nice day
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks for making the video it's helped a lot! Started snapping milky way recently and needed a no nonsense tutorial on stacking! You've got another subscriber!👍
This has been one of the most informative videos I've seen in a while. I've just recently been getting into photography, so I bought a cheap Rebel SL1 to get the feel of using a "decent" camera, to see if this was a hobby I wanted to pursue. I've definitely improved my technique, and understanding of how to properly setup the camera for the given shot, by understanding ISO, aperture, and shutter time. I figured I would give photography/nightscapes a shot with said Rebel SL1 and a 24MM F2.8 prime lens, and ALL of the pictures turned out blurry and out of focus, as well as grainy and awful looking. I already know my way around photoshop fairly well so I will definitely be trying your method out to see if I can squeeze any decent images out of this cheap setup. Thanks for keeping me enthused about potentially taking/creating some decent nightscapes in the future.
Crazy good tutorial, very useful for beginners and intermediate photographers. This is the first time I heard of Sequator, and you have my thanks for that! Subscribed immediately after watching
Awesome video tutorial. This is very useful. It seems that a lot of post processing needs to be done to really get the image you want. Since both Lightroom and Photoshop are very feature rich programs, it would be nice to have a cheatsheet walkthrough of the software features to get this final image. Thank you.
Excellent tutorial. I tried to figure the night photography tricks myself for years. Night photography is challenging because of the harsh environment that we are dealing in the complete darkness. Through many trial-and-error shots, I was able to get a few shots on my own. But this tutorial is teaching so much more that I wanted to know, but no one had ever explained to me. Thank you!!!
one of the best tutorials ive seen on youtube when it comes to taking shots of the nightsky using a dslr and a kit lens, i recently purchased the ioptron skytracker pro mount and im wondering if i can take shots of good quality of the milkyway using my 200d & the kit lens, or the nifty 50 lens which is my recent lens upgrade.
I keep coming back to this video, especially more often now that I got myself a DSLR over my 15 year old digital camera, just to check on certain steps and facts. I tried to capture stars at my back yard today, even though it's super cloudy and I live in light polluted area. It worked though on my D3200 and 18-105mm 3.5-5.6 kit lens. I've been waiting super long for when the clouds clear up and tomorrow should be the first day for it during right times. Thank you for sharing your guides and adventures with us!
Great informative video 👍😎. I’ve been trying to do similar images (astrophotography) with my kit canon and manual focus Astro lens. I’ve got many still images ready to stack, but never really got a grasp of the Lr or Ps program yet. This video has inspired me to try it again. I’m a decent photographer, but not good at the “editing” software. Thank you again for the tutorial and inspiration to give it a go again. Cheers 😉
Thank you for the lovely video and explanation. I wish to do the same experiment with my Nikon d90 and just a mobile torch on my phone ( as I don't have any other gear for lights ). Wish to ask you about - the 10 night shots that you took - were the settings the same for all 10 shots , why 10 shots - what's the reason to have so many instead of may be 5 ? - kindly explain and also please comment on if I could get anywhere near that kind of a shot with the gear I have. thanks.
Thanks for watching Anand. The 10 shots were all exactly the same exposure settings. You could do 5 but the resultant noise reduction would not be as great. The Nikon D90 was a really good camera and I had one for years but the high iso noise will be a problem .. that's why we need to do the noise reduction technique. You can use any light source to light paint.
Thank you so so much I sat watching your videos for hours yesterday and last night out it all into practise for my 1st attempt at astro photography. I'm amazed I got the shot and I love it . Yes there is improvements to be made but took all your advice downloaded sequator and wow . I'd love to be able to show it to you, is this possible? Also you mentioned an orange sheet over your torch that's my main niggle with the image, light is to white . Is it commonly available im in the UK . I can't even remember what video it was in as I watched them for about 4 hours some even twice lol. Thank you again so much .
Thank you so much Tanya, really appreciate you watching. The orange gel is a 1/2 cto and the part number here in Australia is 205. Let me know how you go.
Please allow me a correction. Scientifically, full frames do not receive more light than cropped sensors, because exposure is by unit area, not total area. A Lens doesn't care where its sitting on, it brings exactly the same light regardless the sensor. Light is the same per milimetre basis. The advantages of full frame is SNR and Larger Photosites and better pixel pitch with allows a better depth of field and less noise, and since its not cropped, better for many styles of photography, landscape for example. Cropped sensor are far better in wildlife photography. Good video none the less.
In fact, you could say that a bigger sensor in the same light conditions gathers more light (as quantity of light, not intensity). The higher quantity of light is then distributed on a larger area, so that the intensity of light does not change. It’s like if you have two water reservoirs: one having an area 10 times (for instance) bigger than the other. If you get 1 hour of a 1 mm/h rainfall on both reservoirs, the bigger one will collect 10 times the amount of water collected by the smaller one, but the water level (provided that the areas are constant) will increase of 1 mm on both reservoirs. . Said that, I’d like to add that I really enjoyed the video tutorial and will try out this technique. Thank you 😊
Correction to the correction. "...With allows a better depth of field..." This should read, "allows a shallower, depth of field" but actually, the sensor size and pixel pitch has nothing to do with depth of field. Remember that 'better' is a subjective term. And the whole point of this video is you don't need fancy gear to make great images. Just the skills and determination.
ISO sensitivity is based on area, so of course a large ISO on a full frame sensor has less noise, because in actuality, the ISO has to be (in effect) larger on a smaller sensor because there's less area. The ISO number isn't absolute.
@@Noksus actually , it's not only about the sensor size, but also about the density of the pixels stacked into it. here can fit the "less is more" sentence :)
Great Video mate- One of the most informative I've watched on astrophotography. My question is regards to when you took the stacking images at the beginning- I know you said the ISO was at 3200 I believe and the F stop was at 3.5 and that the shutter speed was 15 seconds so when you took the 10 images that you later stacked in sequator were each of these pictures shot with these settings because if so wouldn't the stars have moved over the course of taking each photo or does sequator blend them altogether regardless? Sorry for the essay! I'm new to all this. Great vid- definitely subscribing- Thanks!
Did you really drive to the corner, set up your camera, drive away, turn around, drive past the camera, turn around again, and go back and get your camera for 5 seconds of b-roll? That's commitment lol
Look at channels like Pierre T. Lambert, McKinnon and others. So many funny moments like these where they depict getting into a car etc, but you just see from the camera placement that they'll have to double back to get it :D
this is the single most useful video on the topic. if all other videos were deleted ppl like me would find the essential info way faster. ive seen a boatload of those videos and the only thing i got from them was confusion , yours was well structured and even showed a free program that can achieve that. nice!
Hi Merlin 15 sec shutter speed at iso 3200 for the sky. Also 15 sec at a lower iso for the foreground. When light painting the foreground I didnt necessarily light the subject for the full 15 seconds. It depends how bright the light source is etc.
@@nightscapeimages.richard fantastic I had no idea what light painting was, absolutely brilliant. My phone has light painting mode just thought it was filter haha
Whenever I have nothing to focus on I literally just set my phone with the ligh on out 50 or so feet from my camera and focus on that with live view set to 10x
Super helpful and motivating for me who just started with a second hand kit. And a delight to see someone explain things well without too much of the pretentious TH-cam stuff (although given they are also helpful, TH-cam is a great place). Your explanation was excellent, not to fast or slow.
Thanks for watching. I think it depends on what type of photography you're doing. With this low light night sky stuff it's really important to have good post processing skills for sure.
You could say the same thing about Ansel Adams: Camera & lens - 10% Photography skill - 20% Darkroom/developing skills - 70% Comments like this don't serve any purpose whatsoever.
2:55 This is not true. If I take my D500 and my D850, my 70-200 f/2.8, set a tripod up and place a test subject/object, take a picture with the D500 w/70-200, then take a picture with the D850 framed up the same way with the same lens 70-200, same settings, the exposure data and image appearance will be EXACTLY the same. Both images will look identical exposure wise, and they will both have the exact same ISO, aperture and shutter speed. The FF does not gather light faster, it just has larger pixels that are more spread out for the same amount of MP, which generally gives less noise, shallower dof/more pleasing background. If FF could gather more light quicker, the exposures would be different in experiments like I described, but they're not. The only thing that is affected is depth of field, which is shallower on a FF if using the same lens and aperture. But the crop sensor has the advantage of 1.5x reach and nowadays, the noise difference is negligible on good cameras.
Thanks for watching. Your are correct and I have had this discussion with quite a few people and have corrected my view on this. Really appreciate you watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks for replying and making such an informative video. I really enjoyed it. Sorry if I came off as rude or snarky, it wasn't my intent. You have my sub! :)
@@adamaj74 I didn't see it that way at all. I'm a big believer that we learn from each other and that no-one knows it all. Also that we can easily make incorrect assumptions and mistakes. I always value people like yourself who add insight to my videos. Thanks again.
I mean that's more of an interpretation of what he said... If you use the same aperture the larger sensor will gather a lot more light (~2.25 times in absolute light), but since ISO is not size normalized you'll need the same ISO and Exposure time. But if you want to capture 2 identical images (including depth of field) you need to apply the crop factor to both the aperture and the focal length, so if you use say 70mm F2.8 on a 1.5x crop you'd need a 105mm F4.2 lens on a full frame body and raise the ISO accordingly...
Hi Richard, Many thanks for your very kind help regarding the older lenses. I will take on board your advice and see what results l get. I will continue to watch your tutorials with avid interest. Thanks again. Best regards. Richard.
You never put your seat belt around your kit bag, tut tut ^^ I've seen people set up a camera to walk on by then retrieve it but never drive on by, kudos! You got me subbed!! Can you do this in RawTherapee
I want someone to do a video about night photography, not software mess, stacking, layering and all that..Lots of us have a stock camera and the crappy software that comes with it.. Today Outdoor Photographer magazine should be called Indoor Editing magazine.
You get the same amount of light per area. So you're perpetuating the same myth that everyone did in the past about cropped sensors. "cropped" camera lenses are designed for that camera. So you get exactly the same quality. One interesting fact, "full frame" cameras are actually heavily cropped. The cameras used to have actual "full frame" - were 4x5 cameras, medium format was slightly smaller. 35mm cameras are actually cropped already. Heavily. So no, you don't get less light in a cropped sensor. It's a bollocks myth. You have higher pixel density - which depending on the sensor quality might give you more noise.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Not the size matter, only the pixel density. A 12mpx micro 4/3 sensor does have the same pixel density as a 24mpx FF sensor.
@@louismeyer6766 When you are looking at a 1:1 crop. Given similar sensor technology, surface area is going to be the most important factor for noise performance when you are comparing final exposures scaled to the same resolution. The later applies to this type of photography.
Rheinmetall Borsigue That is true, but dont forget the lenses.. FF lens has twice the area compared to m4/3 lenses and that lets a FF sensor to receive far more photons over the same amount of time. The F number might be the same, but the actual T stops different. Today even a phone camera lenses are pretty bright at 1,7f ar even 1,4f although they are considerably bright, look at the physical size of them.. Imagine that the sensor is behind that lens and the opening of that lens is so tiny, the sensor is even tinier.. Yet they are 1,7f they cant compare in light gathering capabilities to a bigger sensor with a lens that has more surface area.. The only reason a phone cameras can struggle in low light conditions - they take a series of pictures and stack them in postproccesing to increase the light gathered, so the picture you take with the phone is a set of many exposures in most cases a short "video" of ~20 frames or so stacked together. While camera gathers all that information in one exposure.. So when compared FF with m4/3 its is 2x crop, so twice the amount of information... In real life scenarios on a sunny day 2x more information might not be the big difference because the amount of light in the atmosphere is very huge, even phones are doing OK, but when the sun sets the difference is becoming clearer with each minute after the dawn.
I'd like to especially thank Joe from Dark Arts Astrophotography for the use of the image at 3:10 in this video. I initially didn't realise it was his image but I think it's very important to acknowledge the original owner of material. Thanks a lot Joe for the use of your image. Check out his awesome work and a great link to his article regarding the use of crop sensor cameras vs full frame here: darkartsastro.ca/full-frame-vs-crop-sensor-is-full-frame-worth-the-extra-cost/
Thanks for that. I'm glad we got this resolves.
Great video, by the way.
@@DarkArtsAstrophotography It's the least I could do Joe ... many thanks.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I saw an old building under a nearly full moon early one morning. It turned out well, lighting and composition wise, but when I got home and put it on my computer I could see the noise. So I went back at the same time the next morning and set it to ISO 100 and the sky looked A LOT better. No noise discernible to the eye. In each case I had to use a tripod so using the higher ISO simply doesn't make sense. Why use ISO 3200 in your case? It's better to not have the noise in the first place so one doesn't have to reduce it via software later. Most of the post-production stuff people do could be avoided if they put a little more thought into things when out shooting photos.
One thing that strikes me is that I see people doing stuff on the computer, many times spending significant amounts of time, that could be done by spending just a few seconds considering things when taking the photo itself.
@@Anon54387 Thanks a lot for watching and for leaving a comment. Your shooting scenario is very different to this example as you had a "nearly full moon". I challenge you to go out and try that when there is no moon in the sky and see how many stars you can capture at iso100. That is a very much considered comment coming from many years of nightscape experience.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I'll give that a shot on the 26th as there will be no moon. I take it I won't be able to see many stars without upping the ISO. At least if I understood your comment correctly. Still, I do see people spending significant amounts of time doing stuff on the computer that could be avoided if different choices were made when taking the photo. I'd rather, if at all possible, to minimize time on the computer and spend more taking photos. Thanks for the reply. I wasn't expecting one, to be honest, with the volume on this channel. You must enjoy interacting with people. It seems you reply quite a lot.
Edit:
I just watched your video on focusing to infinity with that small cubby house. Not to beat a dead horse, but couldn't a person reduce the ISO to 100 and just use a bulb for a longer exposure so as to avoid the noise? Perhaps I'm not seeing the problem.
Taught me more in 28 minutes than I've learned in months with others
Very kind of you to say Ray, really appreciate you watching.
Taught me more in 28 minutes that Google Pixel doing in one click.
airscrew1 yet you still took the time to read then reply.🤷♂️
Well said!! I just found his channel a month or two ago!!
Me too, ffs. I just wish I saw that channel sooner!
I can tell your passionate about helping people with Milkyway photography. One of the best I’ve saw on the tube.
Thanks a lot Josh, yes I am very passionate about helping. Sometimes it's hard to get info because photographers often like to keep their info close to themselves.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Yah its really spooky!
Seen
This is proof that experience is worth more than good/expensive gear!
Thanks a lot for watching
Faxx bro
now folks, this is a living testament to what pro's said about gears & skill..
give a pro photographer a kitlens & they will give you a topnotch output..
give a newbie a top of the line camera/lens & gives you an either underexposed or overexposed output..
Im a newbie as well, literally, bought last month nikon z6II as my first camera with 85mm & 35mm 1.8S lens..this video gives me a lot of insights in terms of gears/experience as on how to use what youve got in a given situation..
learned a lot from this video, will surely carry this knowledge until then.. 10/10
Thanks so much for watching my friend. I very much appreciate your comments.
@@nightscapeimages.richard you're welcome sir! Btw, can you make an in depth tutorial for photo stacking panoramic astro using example 35mm lens..thank you!
@@BOUNTYEATER I'll see if I can get around to that some time.
@@nightscapeimages.richard actually im planning to get 20mm 1.8s for astro, but after i saw this video, i think i can use 35mm to stack panoramic astro to be able to recreate a 14mm image..
Im just a bit confused other video tutorials here in yt. Thank you so much!
@@BOUNTYEATER Yes you can certainly use the 35mm as a panorama. . but I must admit I love that 20mm Z lens.
As someone who's only just started, this is very inspiring. I have a Nikon cropped sensor camera (D5300) with the exact kit lens you used. You haven't baffled us newbies with tonnes of technical detail or used expensive camera, lens or lighting rigs. Keeping everything simple is paramount for us to succeed. As another poster stated, we can go back and re-watch the areas we need clarification on, so no need to apologise for running through the detail quickly. I will watch this over and over again. Thanks again. I've just subscribed.
Thanks so much Carl, really appreciate you taking the time to comment.
2 years later & this is still a great tutorial for those of us just starting with kit lens cameras! Thanks 🙏🏻 & Well done👍🏻
Thanks so much for watching Rashid.
Hi Richard I would of taken six dark frames to Help reduce the sencor heat noise :) I know its another step but one can really see the noise from the sencor around the corners of the frame in the sky images ! For those who are wondering how to do dark frames all you need to do is after you have taken your Sky images leave the camera settings the same just put the lens cap back on and take another six shoots before you start doing your light painting images ! Later in processing all you need to do is apply the same edit you have made to your sky images and export as Tiffs as you will be doing for your Sky then load them in the dark frame tab in Sequator
Thanks a lot John. Good suggestion.
Thanks for the lesson on using an APS-C camera with a kit lens. Many people forget what can be done with the tools they can afford.
Really pleased you like it David, thanks heaps for watching.
David Madden It is a shame he keeps stressing ‘just a crop sensor’, I almost feel bad for choosing one.
Simply wow.
Thanks so much for watching.
Thankyou sir. Like your style of teaching and keep touching with all subscriber
I appreciated .. BIG Love from India
Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment Rasav.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Risav😅
Its amazing how you helped beginners so instantly ..I'm one of the person who requested you to make something by the kitlens ..and here you go you did it better than anybody else ..thanks a lot sir ..gem of a guy ..
I just subscribed to your channel. You've only 9,998 subscibers to go.
@@kenwalton6711 thank you mate ..only a few left ..I appricate it.I subscribed to you too
I spend a lot of time with new photographers with standard camera equipment so I get asked about it quite a lot. Thanks for watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thank you mate ! You are amazing
I've been watching astrophotography videos for a week. I've watched almost 10-15 videos in youtube and read articles three times more. Your video is the far best content i've ever seen. Thanks!
Very kind of you to say Ekin, thank you
Nothing wrong with a long video as long as it's not full of waffle and adds value. Which this video is! Great stuff!
Thanks Marc. I knew when I produced it that I'd get some people saying it was too long but it's almost impossible to do a post processing video without it stretching out.
@@nightscapeimages.richard It was nowhere near too long. I could have watched all night. Very good video!
Thank you
Fantastic picture.
Thanks very much for watching James.
It is pure magic to see someone knowing what they do :) This show that gear does not matter that much, it is the creator who do the magic :)
I really appreciate you watching Kristoffer.
People like you inspired me to become a photographer. Thank you!.
I really appreciate you watching Gabriel
I have just gotten into the world of photography and your explanation as to how to do this is AMAZING! I cannot wait to give this a go and see how it turns out for me. Thank you!
Thanks so much for watching
Thanks for this intro to Sequator. I just started using it and feel like I've developed a photography super power!
Thanks a lot for the comment Luke. Really appreciate it. It's a wonderful program isn't it.
I went to university and took bunch of photography classes, professors kept saying go shoot more and then printed them out on paper, hung on the wall and wasted more time to critique each other. Now this is straightforward teaching, Thank You very much.
Thanks so much for watching, really appreciated.
XLNT tutorial. Thank you.. use to do a lot of light painting, but this beautiful with the night sky as an addition.
Thank you so much for watching.
excellent job. dont worry about how fast you go through a tutorial. we can always rewind and pause. nice job. subscribed today.
Thanks so much for your support.
Great tutorial for night photography that too a brilliant work with a kit lens and crop camera. Great encouragement to all photographers with a minimum gear! Thanks for the tutorial right from taking the images to processing them.
Thank you so much for watching
Terrific end result!! This is a great tutorial A-Z on nightscape photography I've ever seen on the web.
Thanks for your lovely comments Aluico, really appreciated
I was about to photograph the sky tonight at some abandoned farm hoping that the images get good without any editing, I have the G85 lumix and Leica 15mm 1.7mm lens, then while having the morning coffee my smart tv randomly suggest this video, and i havent watched similar vids in a while, But The video was the best ive seen for in this topic, Editing is truly Key and the result was amazing, Thanks alot, you got yourself a new subscriber. :-)
Really appreciate you watching my friend. Always happy to assist any time.
Can't believe I actually finish watching the entire video. I love shooting photos and I love searching for educational shooting related videos, but usually I can never ever finish watching those videos as they are soo soo boring. But this one is fun, meaningful, and straight to the point.
Thank you so much Sherry for watching, really appreciated.
Just blew me away .. this came up on my feed and even though I never met you I instantly knew who you were. I was to go to one of your location shoots but unfortunately didn’t make it due to illness. But watching this was just like being there thank you Richard for your time. I have subbed and liked😀
Hi Jillian, of coarse I remember you. I hope you're doing well. Thanks so much for watching.
Brilliant video, very descriptive and easy to understand - thanks for taking the time to do it.
Really appreciate you watching Ryan, thanks
What a great presentation of how to do something really cool. Thank you from Arizona.
Thanks very much for watching. ..really appreciated.
Just looked at this vid for the 10th time - more I look the more I realise its utterly brilliant for those of us with "stock" cameras and lenses. Thank you so much for an explanation which makes such awesome photos possible.
You are very kind Toby, thanks so much for your generous comments.
This tutorial is a gem. Never saw this kind of tutorial before. I'm not going to be ashamed of using a kit lens anymore. Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching Jelourd, glad you like it.
Enjoyed watching that, completely lost in the process but enjpyed it..!!!
Really appreciate you watching Martin, thanks so much.
wow what a great video.
thanks so much for showing us beginners what we can achieve with our cropped sensor and kit lenses.
and in a very easy to follow manner too.
Subbed
Really appreciate you watching Martyn
Hi. Im just starting to take pictures of the night sky and this. This is so perfect. Thank you. I learned a lot especially stacking.
Really appreciate you watching.
Super job Richard, love final image 🥰👍🇮🇪
Thanks as always Vivian
I dont comment on youtube videos often...but this is pure gold. Perfect pace. Thank you very much!
Thanks a lot for watching. I feel quite privileged ..!!!
Hasn’t digital made this easy to do, I did light painting on film for years one exposure, good video mate well edited
Thanks so much for watching Greg, really appreciate your insights.
Thanks a lot. You have opened the gates for me 😀
Really appreciate you watching Pratik
First time viewer here. Loved the vid and thought the result was awesome. Hitting sub was a no brainer. Off to look at the rest of your vids now. Thanks for uploading.
Thanks Merv really appreciate that.
Totally blown away by this video. I have recently purchased a Canon 77D (with 18-135, 50mm nifty fifty, upgrade from 1100D) and was gathering money for Samyang 14mm f/2.8 for astrophotography. I am new to star world and was relying on investing in better lens. However, your video gave me courage to try with what I already own. After watching your video multiple times, I am all set for my first astro shot. Big thumbs UP to your effort and guidance. Love from India!!!!!
Thanks so much for taking the time to watch and comment, really appreciate that.
Thank you for investing your time to make this for the people starting out, this realy helps getting folks more interested in photography without spending a fortune.
I'm so glad you like it. Thanks for the comment.
this is pure magic, I am looking on my Nikon D5200 in a different way now...
Really appreciate you watching Lightjay Panda
Impressive. particularly for me who doesn't have a prime lens with a wide aperture. But I really like to see a video with the milky way nearly in all its details with multiple images.
Thank you
Thanks heaps for watching.
I am so gonna try out sequator on some of my older images.
Yes it's certainly worth a go.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I tried it last weekend. Really nice tool, stacked 27x14s images which turned out pretty nicely. The remove light pollution option is pretty impressive imho.
Thank you, one million times. You are a perfect example of how the rest of the photography community should behave. Photographers become more and more toxic imho and you keep the good values of supporting each other. You have a whole lot of experience and knowledge and i am very thankful that you shared it with all of us. Have a nice day
Really appreciate your kind words Peter Pan
Fantastic! 👏
Thanks for watching
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks for making the video it's helped a lot! Started snapping milky way recently and needed a no nonsense tutorial on stacking! You've got another subscriber!👍
@@ersway My pleasure
This has been one of the most informative videos I've seen in a while. I've just recently been getting into photography, so I bought a cheap Rebel SL1 to get the feel of using a "decent" camera, to see if this was a hobby I wanted to pursue. I've definitely improved my technique, and understanding of how to properly setup the camera for the given shot, by understanding ISO, aperture, and shutter time. I figured I would give photography/nightscapes a shot with said Rebel SL1 and a 24MM F2.8 prime lens, and ALL of the pictures turned out blurry and out of focus, as well as grainy and awful looking. I already know my way around photoshop fairly well so I will definitely be trying your method out to see if I can squeeze any decent images out of this cheap setup. Thanks for keeping me enthused about potentially taking/creating some decent nightscapes in the future.
Thanks heaps for watching MrMatte0000, really appreciate it.
Crazy good tutorial, very useful for beginners and intermediate photographers. This is the first time I heard of Sequator, and you have my thanks for that! Subscribed immediately after watching
Thanks very much for watching and commenting.
Good... Yes... But hella looooooooonggggg and kinda boring
Appreciate you watching anyway ... it has to be long to explain the process ... and boring ... well that's up the individual.
@@oxoConstantinEoxo All learning is. You have to tediously study theory before you go into the field and start learning on your mistakes haha
Awesome video tutorial. This is very useful. It seems that a lot of post processing needs to be done to really get the image you want. Since both Lightroom and Photoshop are very feature rich programs, it would be nice to have a cheatsheet walkthrough of the software features to get this final image. Thank you.
Thanks so much for watching Steve. You are correct, there is a lot of work required to get these final results.
Probably the best tutorial for amateur ever made. Everything is in there. Outstanding job !
Very kind of you to say .. thanks for watching
Excellent tutorial. I tried to figure the night photography tricks myself for years. Night photography is challenging because of the harsh environment that we are dealing in the complete darkness. Through many trial-and-error shots, I was able to get a few shots on my own. But this tutorial is teaching so much more that I wanted to know, but no one had ever explained to me. Thank you!!!
You're very welcome Wendy. I really appreciate you watching. I have many more videos on my channel which may be helpful to you also.
That was brilliant! I'm inspired now :)
Really pleased you like it
one of the best tutorials ive seen on youtube when it comes to taking shots of the nightsky using a dslr and a kit lens, i recently purchased the ioptron skytracker pro mount and im wondering if i can take shots of good quality of the milkyway using my 200d & the kit lens, or the nifty 50 lens which is my recent lens upgrade.
Thanks very much for watching Allan. Yes you certainly can take great images with the 200D, especially with the skytracker. Give it a go ..!!!
Great stuff!
Really appreciate you watching Peter
I keep coming back to this video, especially more often now that I got myself a DSLR over my 15 year old digital camera, just to check on certain steps and facts. I tried to capture stars at my back yard today, even though it's super cloudy and I live in light polluted area. It worked though on my D3200 and 18-105mm 3.5-5.6 kit lens. I've been waiting super long for when the clouds clear up and tomorrow should be the first day for it during right times. Thank you for sharing your guides and adventures with us!
I'm really pleased you like the video Smiley, thanks for the comment.
Loved it. Thanks mate. Subscribed.
I really appreciate that my friend.
thank you for sharing the knowledge. subscribed!!
Many thanks indeed
Great informative video 👍😎. I’ve been trying to do similar images (astrophotography) with my kit canon and manual focus Astro lens. I’ve got many still images ready to stack, but never really got a grasp of the Lr or Ps program yet. This video has inspired me to try it again. I’m a decent photographer, but not good at the “editing” software. Thank you again for the tutorial and inspiration to give it a go again. Cheers 😉
Thanks so much for watching, really appreciate your comments.
Very informative and easy to absorb content. Thanks for sharing your methods, which yield awesome results. Liked and subbed..
Thanks heaps mate, appreciate the comments
Amazing shot and video....really helpful to me.
Thank you so much for watching.
I should have discovered this video much before. Thank you for this great tutorial
I'm pleased you like it, thanks for watching.
Thank you for the lovely video and explanation. I wish to do the same experiment with my Nikon d90 and just a mobile torch on my phone ( as I don't have any other gear for lights ). Wish to ask you about - the 10 night shots that you took - were the settings the same for all 10 shots , why 10 shots - what's the reason to have so many instead of may be 5 ? - kindly explain and also please comment on if I could get anywhere near that kind of a shot with the gear I have. thanks.
Thanks for watching Anand. The 10 shots were all exactly the same exposure settings. You could do 5 but the resultant noise reduction would not be as great. The Nikon D90 was a really good camera and I had one for years but the high iso noise will be a problem .. that's why we need to do the noise reduction technique. You can use any light source to light paint.
Thank you so so much I sat watching your videos for hours yesterday and last night out it all into practise for my 1st attempt at astro photography. I'm amazed I got the shot and I love it . Yes there is improvements to be made but took all your advice downloaded sequator and wow . I'd love to be able to show it to you, is this possible? Also you mentioned an orange sheet over your torch that's my main niggle with the image, light is to white . Is it commonly available im in the UK . I can't even remember what video it was in as I watched them for about 4 hours some even twice lol. Thank you again so much .
Thank you so much Tanya, really appreciate you watching. The orange gel is a 1/2 cto and the part number here in Australia is 205. Let me know how you go.
Hey Tanya, send me an email if you'd like. rgtatti@hotmail.com
Please allow me a correction. Scientifically, full frames do not receive more light than cropped sensors, because exposure is by unit area, not total area. A Lens doesn't care where its sitting on, it brings exactly the same light regardless the sensor. Light is the same per milimetre basis. The advantages of full frame is SNR and Larger Photosites and better pixel pitch with allows a better depth of field and less noise, and since its not cropped, better for many styles of photography, landscape for example. Cropped sensor are far better in wildlife photography. Good video none the less.
Thanks for your correction Martim D. Happy for you to add to the discussion. Thanks for watching.
In fact, you could say that a bigger sensor in the same light conditions gathers more light (as quantity of light, not intensity). The higher quantity of light is then distributed on a larger area, so that the intensity of light does not change.
It’s like if you have two water reservoirs: one having an area 10 times (for instance) bigger than the other. If you get 1 hour of a 1 mm/h rainfall on both reservoirs, the bigger one will collect 10 times the amount of water collected by the smaller one, but the water level (provided that the areas are constant) will increase of 1 mm on both reservoirs.
.
Said that, I’d like to add that I really enjoyed the video tutorial and will try out this technique. Thank you 😊
Correction to the correction. "...With allows a better depth of field..." This should read, "allows a shallower, depth of field" but actually, the sensor size and pixel pitch has nothing to do with depth of field. Remember that 'better' is a subjective term. And the whole point of this video is you don't need fancy gear to make great images. Just the skills and determination.
ISO sensitivity is based on area, so of course a large ISO on a full frame sensor has less noise, because in actuality, the ISO has to be (in effect) larger on a smaller sensor because there's less area. The ISO number isn't absolute.
@@Noksus actually , it's not only about the sensor size, but also about the density of the pixels stacked into it.
here can fit the "less is more" sentence :)
Nice trick thank you for showing us the way of photography
Thank you for watching.
This must be one of the best tutorials I've seen yet. Love the fast pace - there's always the pause button for us dim-witted...
Thank you so much for watching Sigurd and leaving a comment
Thank you Sir. What is the program's name on 06:28?
That app is called Photopills
Great Video mate- One of the most informative I've watched on astrophotography.
My question is regards to when you took the stacking images at the beginning- I know you said the ISO was at 3200 I believe and the F stop was at 3.5 and that the shutter speed was 15 seconds so when you took the 10 images that you later stacked in sequator were each of these pictures shot with these settings because if so wouldn't the stars have moved over the course of taking each photo or does sequator blend them altogether regardless?
Sorry for the essay! I'm new to all this.
Great vid- definitely subscribing- Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching Dean. Yes all the sky images are exactly the same. The Sequator software aligns the stars so they don't trail.
very nice work
Thanks heaps
Great video. Thanks for this 👍🏻
I'm really pleased you like it Beverley.
after watching this i feel like i can get amazing shots with my d5200 but that i also need to upgrade to a full size sensor
Really appreciate you watching.
Im still shocked! Cant wait to try that on FF camera Sony alpha 7
Your Sony A7 will be awesome Hells Bells
Did you really drive to the corner, set up your camera, drive away, turn around, drive past the camera, turn around again, and go back and get your camera for 5 seconds of b-roll? That's commitment lol
Yes I certainly did. It takes a lot of work to shoot these videos and I appreciate you watching.
Night videos next
Look at channels like Pierre T. Lambert, McKinnon and others. So many funny moments like these where they depict getting into a car etc, but you just see from the camera placement that they'll have to double back to get it :D
this is the single most useful video on the topic. if all other videos were deleted ppl like me would find the essential info way faster. ive seen a boatload of those videos and the only thing i got from them was confusion , yours was well structured and even showed a free program that can achieve that. nice!
Thanks heaps Maxi, really appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment.
the best tutorial i have ever seen in youtube. you know what, the best i have ever seen. period. thank you very much!
Thank you very much for your kind words.
Hi, what shutter speeds did you use for the sky and light painting? Edit. I mean exposure times sorry
Hi Merlin 15 sec shutter speed at iso 3200 for the sky. Also 15 sec at a lower iso for the foreground. When light painting the foreground I didnt necessarily light the subject for the full 15 seconds. It depends how bright the light source is etc.
@@nightscapeimages.richard fantastic I had no idea what light painting was, absolutely brilliant. My phone has light painting mode just thought it was filter haha
Whenever I have nothing to focus on I literally just set my phone with the ligh on out 50 or so feet from my camera and focus on that with live view set to 10x
Great idea Marcus. Thanks for your insights.
what the best (in normal price !!) for Nikon Z 6 night and atmosphere phtography (wide range)
The cheapest wide angle lens to use with the Z6 (with the FTZ adaptor) is the Samyang 14mm f2.8. This is not the best lens by a long way though.
@@nightscapeimages.richard for the first time taking night and sky photo i ordered it. thanks
Super helpful and motivating for me who just started with a second hand kit. And a delight to see someone explain things well without too much of the pretentious TH-cam stuff (although given they are also helpful, TH-cam is a great place). Your explanation was excellent, not to fast or slow.
Thank you so much Niels for watching, really appreciated.
Excellent tutorial, I have the D7100 and 18-105 kit lens and this has given me some ideas for having a go at light painting, thanks
Thanks for watching Simon
Sir ,Can it be done with a Nikon D5300 and 18-55 kit lens?
Yes absolutely it can be done with that camera and lens.
Nice Video! What was the name of the app with the tables?
The app is called Photopills
What’s the name off the app you’ve used at the tablet?
The app is called Photopills
Amazing video
Thanks so much for watching.
I'm new to photography and your video is the most complete and comprehensive I found so far! thx a lot and I can't wait to go out and try it!
Thanks so much Seb
Just right what I needed. May I ask where you shot this? I'm located in Coburg, Victoria and I'm sure this place wouldn't be too far.
Thanks Tammy. This tractor is on private property near Newbridge in Central Victoria
To get good pictures result:
Camera & lens - 10%
Photography skill - 20%
Photoshop - 70%
Thanks for watching. I think it depends on what type of photography you're doing. With this low light night sky stuff it's really important to have good post processing skills for sure.
You could say the same thing about Ansel Adams:
Camera & lens - 10%
Photography skill - 20%
Darkroom/developing skills - 70%
Comments like this don't serve any purpose whatsoever.
2:55 This is not true. If I take my D500 and my D850, my 70-200 f/2.8, set a tripod up and place a test subject/object, take a picture with the D500 w/70-200, then take a picture with the D850 framed up the same way with the same lens 70-200, same settings, the exposure data and image appearance will be EXACTLY the same. Both images will look identical exposure wise, and they will both have the exact same ISO, aperture and shutter speed. The FF does not gather light faster, it just has larger pixels that are more spread out for the same amount of MP, which generally gives less noise, shallower dof/more pleasing background. If FF could gather more light quicker, the exposures would be different in experiments like I described, but they're not. The only thing that is affected is depth of field, which is shallower on a FF if using the same lens and aperture. But the crop sensor has the advantage of 1.5x reach and nowadays, the noise difference is negligible on good cameras.
Thanks for watching. Your are correct and I have had this discussion with quite a few people and have corrected my view on this. Really appreciate you watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks for replying and making such an informative video. I really enjoyed it. Sorry if I came off as rude or snarky, it wasn't my intent. You have my sub! :)
@@adamaj74 I didn't see it that way at all. I'm a big believer that we learn from each other and that no-one knows it all. Also that we can easily make incorrect assumptions and mistakes. I always value people like yourself who add insight to my videos. Thanks again.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Well said, and thank you.
I mean that's more of an interpretation of what he said... If you use the same aperture the larger sensor will gather a lot more light (~2.25 times in absolute light), but since ISO is not size normalized you'll need the same ISO and Exposure time. But if you want to capture 2 identical images (including depth of field) you need to apply the crop factor to both the aperture and the focal length, so if you use say 70mm F2.8 on a 1.5x crop you'd need a 105mm F4.2 lens on a full frame body and raise the ISO accordingly...
Sure, you should have more views and followers. Your craft is inspiring.
Thanks so much for your encouraging words my friend.
Hi Richard, Many thanks for your very kind help regarding the older lenses. I will take on board your advice and see what results l get. I will continue to watch your tutorials with avid interest.
Thanks again.
Best regards.
Richard.
Many thanks indeed Richard, really appreciate you watching
You never put your seat belt around your kit bag, tut tut ^^
I've seen people set up a camera to walk on by then retrieve it but never drive on by, kudos! You got me subbed!!
Can you do this in RawTherapee
Thanks so much for watching. I've not used RawTherapee.
Why does he drive on the wrong side of the road?
Hey Kyle, thanks for watching. PS: Half the world drives on the wrong side of the road.
You forgot to mention you also needed a computer and software
Very true and don't forget a car to get out on location. Thanks for watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard 😁😁
@@nightscapeimages.richard LOL THAT WAS GREAT
Great video. I know when I was involved with a photography club many members who had basic cameras struggled to get inspiration.
Thanks so much for watching Debbie. Yes it is very true.
Great video - thanks for sharing
Thank you so much for looking Keith, thank you.
I want someone to do a video about night photography, not software mess, stacking, layering and all that..Lots of us have a stock camera and the crappy software that comes with it..
Today Outdoor Photographer magazine should be called Indoor Editing magazine.
Appreciate you watching James
You get the same amount of light per area. So you're perpetuating the same myth that everyone did in the past about cropped sensors. "cropped" camera lenses are designed for that camera. So you get exactly the same quality.
One interesting fact, "full frame" cameras are actually heavily cropped. The cameras used to have actual "full frame" - were 4x5 cameras, medium format was slightly smaller. 35mm cameras are actually cropped already. Heavily.
So no, you don't get less light in a cropped sensor. It's a bollocks myth. You have higher pixel density - which depending on the sensor quality might give you more noise.
Really appreciate your corrections Greg. Thanks for the comments and insight.
@2:57 "Larger sensor is going to capture MORE light, QUICKER..." ?? A very bad way to start a FF vs Crop sensor camera comparison video.
Well perhaps it could have been worded differently but physical size of the sensor does make a difference to light gathering ability.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Not the size matter, only the pixel density. A 12mpx micro 4/3 sensor does have the same pixel density as a 24mpx FF sensor.
@@louismeyer6766 When you are looking at a 1:1 crop. Given similar sensor technology, surface area is going to be the most important factor for noise performance when you are comparing final exposures scaled to the same resolution. The later applies to this type of photography.
Rheinmetall Borsigue That is true, but dont forget the lenses.. FF lens has twice the area compared to m4/3 lenses and that lets a FF sensor to receive far more photons over the same amount of time. The F number might be the same, but the actual T stops different.
Today even a phone camera lenses are pretty bright at 1,7f ar even 1,4f although they are considerably bright, look at the physical size of them.. Imagine that the sensor is behind that lens and the opening of that lens is so tiny, the sensor is even tinier.. Yet they are 1,7f they cant compare in light gathering capabilities to a bigger sensor with a lens that has more surface area.. The only reason a phone cameras can struggle in low light conditions - they take a series of pictures and stack them in postproccesing to increase the light gathered, so the picture you take with the phone is a set of many exposures in most cases a short "video" of ~20 frames or so stacked together. While camera gathers all that information in one exposure.. So when compared FF with m4/3 its is 2x crop, so twice the amount of information... In real life scenarios on a sunny day 2x more information might not be the big difference because the amount of light in the atmosphere is very huge, even phones are doing OK, but when the sun sets the difference is becoming clearer with each minute after the dawn.
This photo came out amazing. Goes to show even with a cropped sensor camera one can still produce some. Amazing images.
Thanks very much Phil.
Excellent Video.
Thanks heaps for having a look.