I appreciate you putting this video up. I’ve got my seal already and going to install it tomorrow on my 2600. Dang bushhogs and tillers are hard on them. Thank you!
Just spend some effott and clean the opening where the paper gasket sits..The biggest hassel is the c clip holding the bearing race into the housing. When I was reinstalling it ; it decided to fly off somewhere in my shop. Took me three hours to find it..
What you just witnessed is what not to do. This is a very easy job with the most basic proper tools. THEY ARE NOT CALLED "C" CLAMPS! They are snap rings.
Yeah, I hate to say it but that was about everything you shouldn't do when replacing a seal. If you had put it in the correct way would have been about a 20 min job from start to finish. BTW if you had put it in right side up a block of wood over the seal and any kind of hammer tapping it in works a whole lot better.
Anyone starting this project. You do not need to remove the retaining ring on the shaft for the bearing just the ring on the housing. Otherwise this is pretty informative of what to expect.
I never figured out why when working on stuff, people don't take a few minutes to pressure wash it. It makes disassemble a lot cleaner plus you don't contaminate the new parts when reassembly. I'm sure the new seals and bearings would appreciate a clean surface.
Yes I just reiterated about the spring side. But you knocked the old seal out correct but the knocked the new seal in the same way and that’s why you couldn’t get it to go in without force it to go in the wrong way. The seal has nothing to keep it from walking out. The seal should of been knocked in from the opposite end. Also no need to take off smaller snap ring unless you needed to take the beating completely off the shaft. Watch your video and you will see the mistake you made. I just don’t want someone else installing it the wrong way. You are gonna have problems with the new seal. Just stating the facts but still was a good video.
The seal was knocked out from the outside in and you installed the seal from the outside in instead of the inside out. The spring part of the seal goes towards the inside of the tractor. Your seal will probably walk out.
That is why you had such a hard time knocking it in the wrong way. Not trying to knock you I just didn't want someone else to confuse putting the seal in the correct way. Seal should go in with light taps with a bushing driver or even a socket that fits the outer ring of the seal metal surface.
Hey, can we connect the tractor rear power socket to the trailer to help push in the mud and mountain areas if the tractor's rear power takes it in conjunction with the wheels.
Same axle as a ford jubilee. I'd imagine that the pto seal and plate gasket would also fit the 3000. You should really press the seal and bearing. Harbor freight sells a 20ton for under $200 so no excuses for not owning one. Great video
@@YanasaTV that is an excuse. It will save you money in the long run if you have to press hub bearings or trailer bearings. A shop usually gets $20 to press something. Chances are that in about 5 yrs you will be replacing those pto bearings and dust seal.
@@buzzsaw301 Seal can be tapped in if you use the correct size driver. No need for a press on such a small seal. You can also place the seal in the freezer to shrink it. Will go in a lot easier.
@@YanasaTV doing this to a TO30 today and was watching a few of these vids, not that i need to , been doing these for years,, The old to30 uses 90 wt gear oil
Get the proper tools! Screwdrivers and hammers are no substitute for a cheap puller or pry bar. Your pliers to get off the retainers was hilarious! Clean off the tractor before you pull it apart to prevent dirt in the case. Bearing/seal drivers are also cheap about $15 at Harbor Freight. You basically showed every wrong way to replace the seal!
Specialty tools really make a difference when tackling projects like this. Well done. Good video. Great channel.
I appreciate you putting this video up. I’ve got my seal already and going to install it tomorrow on my 2600. Dang bushhogs and tillers are hard on them.
Thank you!
Best of luck! These old tractors need maintenance but are great work horses
Just spend some effott and clean the opening where the paper gasket sits..The biggest hassel is the c clip holding the bearing race into the housing. When I was reinstalling it ; it decided to fly off somewhere in my shop. Took me three hours to find it..
Great Video! I enjoyed seeing inside the hydraulic chamber!
using an appropriately sized socket and a vice would help for seating the new seal
ouch.. you didn't clean the tractor mating surface.. may as well not have put that gasket on
What you just witnessed is what not to do. This is a very easy job with the most basic proper tools.
THEY ARE NOT CALLED "C" CLAMPS! They are snap rings.
Yeah, I hate to say it but that was about everything you shouldn't do when replacing a seal. If you had put it in the correct way would have been about a 20 min job from start to finish. BTW if you had put it in right side up a block of wood over the seal and any kind of hammer tapping it in works a whole lot better.
Thank you for the great video. Gives me the courage to get mine done.
My 9N PTO has been leaking for 40 years. Think I will keep adding transmission oil for a few more years...
Anyone starting this project. You do not need to remove the retaining ring on the shaft for the bearing just the ring on the housing. Otherwise this is pretty informative of what to expect.
I never figured out why when working on stuff, people don't take a few minutes to pressure wash it. It makes disassemble a lot cleaner plus you don't contaminate the new parts when reassembly. I'm sure the new seals and bearings would appreciate a clean surface.
I saw the same thing. Good information anyway
Or at least get a scotch brite pad and some break cleaner to clean the mating surface. I never install a gasket unless the surfaces are clean.
Watching that pto shaft run, looked like it wobbled. If bearing is bad, new seal won't last long.
Bula frnd
Nice video
Yes I just reiterated about the spring side. But you knocked the old seal out correct but the knocked the new seal in the same way and that’s why you couldn’t get it to go in without force it to go in the wrong way. The seal has nothing to keep it from walking out. The seal should of been knocked in from the opposite end. Also no need to take off smaller snap ring unless you needed to take the beating completely off the shaft. Watch your video and you will see the mistake you made. I just don’t want someone else installing it the wrong way. You are gonna have problems with the new seal. Just stating the facts but still was a good video.
You need to invest in a power washer.I never work on anything until its clean.
Especially hydraulic systems
Amen!
Dude buy some tools! Seal drivers and retaining ring pliers are not that expensive. Even for good name brand stuff.
How long did this job take? Have a fluid change coming up thought it would be a good time to change a weeping seal.
THATS NOT HYDAULIC FLUID
ITS BASIC NON FOMING ENGNE OIL (AGRI OL)
The seal was knocked out from the outside in and you installed the seal from the outside in instead of the inside out. The spring part of the seal goes towards the inside of the tractor. Your seal will probably walk out.
That is why you had such a hard time knocking it in the wrong way. Not trying to knock you I just didn't want someone else to confuse putting the seal in the correct way. Seal should go in with light taps with a bushing driver or even a socket that fits the outer ring of the seal metal surface.
If you listen I said “you’ll see a side with a spring, that side should be facing in towards the tractor, the other side faces outward”
Hey, can we connect the tractor rear power socket to the trailer to help push in the mud and mountain areas if the tractor's rear power takes it in conjunction with the wheels.
If your gear ratio on the trailer match the ratio on the rear tires on the tractor... I suppose it could be possible
@@YanasaTVThank you, how can I calculate that tractor tires size 18.4.30 and the trailer 1200 /20
Use a rubber mallet so u don’t damage your equipment. Don’t worry about using a screw driver as a punch.
Why do remove retaining ring on shaft , your only replacing oil seal and not the bearing
Friend I hope someday to lead the lifestyle that you have greetings from guadalajara Jalisco
IT DOES NOT HAVE A TAPERED SPLINE
Hey you put the seal in backwards.
Same axle as a ford jubilee. I'd imagine that the pto seal and plate gasket would also fit the 3000. You should really press the seal and bearing. Harbor freight sells a 20ton for under $200 so no excuses for not owning one. Great video
I don’t have $200
@@YanasaTV that is an excuse. It will save you money in the long run if you have to press hub bearings or trailer bearings. A shop usually gets $20 to press something. Chances are that in about 5 yrs you will be replacing those pto bearings and dust seal.
@@buzzsaw301 Seal can be tapped in if you use the correct size driver. No need for a press on such a small seal. You can also place the seal in the freezer to shrink it. Will go in a lot easier.
@@JT-qf4it great advice, I have tried that on some bearing races in the past. Works reasonably well.
Where did you get kit from?
What name and or model number did you use to order? I tried and got the wrong one.
They are not "c clamps" they are called Cir clips" or "snap rings" but they never snap..
Just a few question what year tractor and what transmission is in it 4 or 8 speed , what position was the the PTO selector in Engaged or did Engaged.
Engaged on my new Holland 3430
I dump gear oil in mine ! Leaks out a little slower ha
That must do wonders to the hydraulic pump 🤔
@@YanasaTV doing this to a TO30 today and was watching a few of these vids, not that i need to , been doing these for years,, The old to30 uses 90 wt gear oil
Get the proper tools! Screwdrivers and hammers are no substitute for a cheap puller or pry bar. Your pliers to get off the retainers was hilarious! Clean off the tractor before you pull it apart to prevent dirt in the case. Bearing/seal drivers are also cheap about $15 at Harbor Freight. You basically showed every wrong way to replace the seal!
You’re wearing that oilskin vest again...
Cowboy