Oh duh, this video is on honing the micro bevel! lol... I get the picture now, 25 degree primary, 30 degree secondary... my bad. :-) To get a feel for different methods I have watched a LOT of videos on sharpening, this is far and away the best one. (IMHO) Thanks for providing this for the woodworking community.
@newluthier Actually it is 25 deg. I would still put a 5 degree secondary bevel on the blade. Sharpening at 30 deg is different from honing guide to honing guide. So you are best to use a protractor and get the projection from that. Once that is established you should make a stop block for easy recreation of that angle. Cheers.
The angle obtained in the guide depends on the thickness of the blade. So you need different settings for some of the thick blades such as those used in bevel up planes and some makes of bevel down planes compared to the thin blades used in a lot of commonly available planes.
Deneb, I have recently bought a second hand pair of LN 98 &99 side rebate planes. the blades had been so badly sharpened that I have bought a new set. There seems to be very little on the internet about sharpening these blades. It would be great if at some time in the future you were to do a presentation on sharpening these and other shewed plane and chisel blades. I am considering making specific jigs to hold these blades to ensure the cutting edge remains vertical when in the plane.
I have a 4 1/2. May I create very tiny curves on bevel edges? Actually l, on the micro-bevel edges? Less than half milimeter. That IS what I did on all my bench planes yet.
So it’s not just chisels that you put a micro bevel on…I’ve just restored an old Stanley number 4 plane and i got a brand new blade but I didn’t realise you put micro bevel on it…
Many experienced sharpeners--that is to say those who have tried and used water stones, diamond stones, oil stones, abrasive paper, etc., etc.--believe that water stones produce an ultimately finer cutting edge than diamond stones. While diamond stones offer the advantage of always being flat, as well as speed and the ability to abrade any metal, the polish produced by water stones is superior.
Awesome video and well done. I however have a question. In this video you say that the primary bevel is 25 degrees, yet when you hone the bevel you set it to 30 degrees. Am I missing something. So for my bench planes, I should have a primary bevel of what degree?
Hi. Thank you for the great videos. Will the ruler trick work with a bevel up plane (such as the LN block plane) or should these irons be treated like a chisel?
Kevin O'Callaghan if you're going to 8,000 I don't think it would make that much of a difference. I can't say that with absolute confidence however, because I haven't done it personally. I'm only thinking of the history where these blades weren't sharpened much past 800 before stropping.
Deneb, I assume with LN's standard block plane you would stay with a 20 deg. angle. If so, do you know the measurement on the jig for that. Thanks for all the good info!! I love my LN tools. Larry
Black and white photography is just so tasteful; these more avant-garde art works, such as the cubism abstraction plane, or the art deco block-plane movements that are now moving into the popular art culture are just so pretentious. That photo helps me to stay grounded in the organic roots of the of the early carpenter, much like using a bronzed plane does.
@1 New Notification Oh my, and another all-too-certain Boomer has failed to recognize farce. I was poking fun at you tool fetishists, dunce. And I'm gen X.
Those honing guides are nice, but be very careful to dry them thoroughly, and oil the wheel after each use if you lap with water. The wheel will rust and seize or grab slightly while rolling. This will cause a flat spot in the wheel and make it unusable.
It can be a tough blade to sharpen. We will try to make a video of that for you. However, for the time being you can watch this video th-cam.com/video/Y0gNiGj_6wo/w-d-xo.html&feature=plcp. It is from one of our favorite fans. He goes over sharpening and shows a home made jig for the blade. It is worth watching all the way through though. Funny guy.
There is no reason to think having the entire back of the pane iron flat is better. The edge is just as sharp with a back bevel. The back is not a registration surface as it is with a paring chisel. With a back bevel, You get to the same place (a sharp edge) faster. So there's no more quality to be put into it with extra time.
The back of the blade should be honed completely flat no micro bevel, this is the best and fastest way to completely ruin your blade! 31 years as a carpenter and joiner and I have never seen anything like it.
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Deneb is like the Norm Abram of hand tool woodworking!
Oh duh, this video is on honing the micro bevel! lol... I get the picture now, 25 degree primary, 30 degree secondary... my bad. :-)
To get a feel for different methods I have watched a LOT of videos on sharpening, this is far and away the best one. (IMHO) Thanks for providing this for the woodworking community.
Excellent video, packed with great information. Thanks for your time!
Love this video. Very informative. Thanx for showing me the right procedures.
@newluthier Actually it is 25 deg. I would still put a 5 degree secondary bevel on the blade. Sharpening at 30 deg is different from honing guide to honing guide. So you are best to use a protractor and get the projection from that. Once that is established you should make a stop block for easy recreation of that angle. Cheers.
excellent video indeed, very complete and well explained
The angle obtained in the guide depends on the thickness of the blade. So you need different settings for some of the thick blades such as those used in bevel up planes and some makes of bevel down planes compared to the thin blades used in a lot of commonly available planes.
Very good video.
Deneb,
I have recently bought a second hand pair of LN 98 &99 side rebate planes. the blades had been so badly sharpened that I have bought a new set. There seems to be very little on the internet about sharpening these blades. It would be great if at some time in the future you were to do a presentation on sharpening these and other shewed plane and chisel blades. I am considering making specific jigs to hold these blades to ensure the cutting edge remains vertical when in the plane.
I have a 4 1/2. May I create very tiny curves on bevel edges? Actually l, on the micro-bevel edges? Less than half milimeter. That IS what I did on all my bench planes yet.
It's my first Lie Nielsen and I'm trying to be very carefull.
Thank you for the video! Question, ive looked on amazon, and i cant find a ruler less than 20 thousandths of an inch, where did you get yours?
So it’s not just chisels that you put a micro bevel on…I’ve just restored an old Stanley number 4 plane and i got a brand new blade but I didn’t realise you put micro bevel on it…
Many experienced sharpeners--that is to say those who have tried and used water stones, diamond stones, oil stones, abrasive paper, etc., etc.--believe that water stones produce an ultimately finer cutting edge than diamond stones. While diamond stones offer the advantage of always being flat, as well as speed and the ability to abrade any metal, the polish produced by water stones is superior.
Sure, if you say so. Ha Ha Ha Ha. Learn how to present evidence, or just get out.
Naa, Waterstones are just MORE WORK, get fine diamond stones and quick and Easy SHARP results
Awesome video and well done. I however have a question. In this video you say that the primary bevel is 25 degrees, yet when you hone the bevel you set it to 30 degrees. Am I missing something. So for my bench planes, I should have a primary bevel of what degree?
Hi. Thank you for the great videos. Will the ruler trick work with a bevel up plane (such as the LN block plane) or should these irons be treated like a chisel?
Nice presentation. Question; do you see any value in going further, either up to 12000# mesh or to a leather strop with compound?
should the primary bevel of 25degrees be ground first or does it matter?
Would stropping the bevel and back of the blade with honing compond improve the sharpness
Kevin O'Callaghan if you're going to 8,000 I don't think it would make that much of a difference. I can't say that with absolute confidence however, because I haven't done it personally. I'm only thinking of the history where these blades weren't sharpened much past 800 before stropping.
Do you flatten the back of the blade? Or is the ruler trick replacing that step?
Should I use a back bevel on a low angle plane? Thanks in advance.
Deneb,
I assume with LN's standard block plane you would stay with a 20 deg. angle. If so, do you know the measurement on the jig for that.
Thanks for all the good info!! I love my LN tools.
Larry
Black and white photography is just so tasteful; these more avant-garde art works, such as the cubism abstraction plane, or the art deco block-plane movements that are now moving into the popular art culture are just so pretentious. That photo helps me to stay grounded in the organic roots of the of the early carpenter, much like using a bronzed plane does.
cubism and art deco are from like a hundred years ago, guy
@1 New Notification Oh my, and another all-too-certain Boomer has failed to recognize farce.
I was poking fun at you tool fetishists, dunce.
And I'm gen X.
Also, where can I buy a ruler like the one shown in the video?
Those honing guides are nice, but be very careful to dry them thoroughly, and oil the wheel after each use if you lap with water. The wheel will rust and seize or grab slightly while rolling. This will cause a flat spot in the wheel and make it unusable.
Lie Nielsen's are stainless steel. No rust.
@@josiahutah3712 im trying to remember which one i had, because it definately rusted, but that is a fair point.
Use diamond stones, jmo
It can be a tough blade to sharpen. We will try to make a video of that for you. However, for the time being you can watch this video th-cam.com/video/Y0gNiGj_6wo/w-d-xo.html&feature=plcp. It is from one of our favorite fans. He goes over sharpening and shows a home made jig for the blade. It is worth watching all the way through though. Funny guy.
Do you put a camber at all on your iron?
For me the link to the printable PDF does not work. HTTP 404
There is no reason to think having the entire back of the pane iron flat is better. The edge is just as sharp with a back bevel. The back is not a registration surface as it is with a paring chisel. With a back bevel, You get to the same place (a sharp edge) faster. So there's no more quality to be put into it with extra time.
A mirror on the back is handy in case you want to check your hair between blade sharpenings.
Nosey bare
Great video, but really, you don't need to speak THAT slowly.
Soon as pots legal this guys gonna quit ....Jesus!
Your overcomplicating things! Any thin machine rule, like a pen pocket rule. Keep it simple! Don't think that these guys know everything!
The back of the blade should be honed completely flat no micro bevel, this is the best and fastest way to completely ruin your blade! 31 years as a carpenter and joiner and I have never seen anything like it.