I have driven a few forward control trucks with a front mounted winch, rather than hanging off of the steering wheel and forcing my face into the windscreen glass to see when the cable is wound back into the home position and not too far, I have found a small mirror mounted above the windscreen facing down onto the winch will save looking a circus act when securing the winch. Of course a small camera might be better but a mirror works just fine. Great content, happy new year.
@@Frank-Thoresen I cannot claim the credit, it was a British Army staff suggestion scheme entry after so many of the rest of us pulled the hook off the end of the rope! I believe he was given a few hundred pounds for money saved.
Thats a good idea. Most newer trucks here, also have front mirrors. Not intended for winches, but rather just to be able to see whats right in front of the truck. :)
Hi Kasper ,in Canada on coaches we were using webasto, espar or pro heat heater system to heat it up the coach in very cold weather, It is like a little portable furnace working with fuel and they were programmable to start at a certain time very useful system.keep the good work from Richard in Canada.
Me parece un trabajo digno, muy decente además de necesario el aislamiento del techo de la cabina. También hagas lo que hagas, ponle algún tipo de calefacción. A mi me resultaba muy desagradable conducir congelado en mi camión. Te recomiendo estar muy seguro de querer meterte con la instalación eléctrica del camión. Si tienes la paciencia y los conocimientos, adelante. Si no, casi mejor lo remiendas lo mejor posible para que funcione todo y ya está. Estoy de acuerdo con la gente que te sugiere ponerle un espejo para ver el frontal del camión, tanto para el winch, como para ver lo que tienes delante y asi evitarte algún disgusto. Espero que el nuevo año te traiga muchos proyectos, muchas ganas de realizarlos y como no, muchas ganas de compartirlos. Gracias por todo, un saludo.
KJ as usual love your videos and running commentary, to help maybe when cleaning or removing decals and sticky tapes etc try using eucalyptist oil as it really removes adhesives, and dries after 2 days or wash off with degreaser, also i often use vinegar to clean down electical connectors as its a mild acid and removes dirt corrosion and most mild oils
You can get overhaul kits for those heaters or just replace it with a knockoff. The inlet for cabin air should be coming from inside the cabin. You can put a Y valve in the inlet to balance exterior air and recirculating cabin air
Hi jk the webasto heater is alway's live because it's used as a night heater in every European truck yes they are expensive to buy new and not so cheap to repair but my goodness they do a fantastic job at heating the truck cab, when I and many other drivers kept them on constantly in winter when we drove in the mountains of Europe you will find your fellow Danish drivers do the same but if you can remount it somewhere it can stay dry mine have always been mounted inside the cab unlike yours behind the front bumper, best of luck getting it repaired or replaced but please put it in the cab and in the dry thanks for another great video.p/s as for the headlights the early Scania's and some other truck's had oval lights and they got converted to twins ither side so I'm sure there is a conversion out there that's suitable for your maggy.
Just a hint, get yourself some hose the right diameter for the air input side of the heater section and run it into the cab. This way you can pull preheated air from within the cab. This way you are not heating cold air. You could even find a "Y" adapter for the input air hose and modify it so you could draw from both inside or outside air. I have several of the old Espar D1L heaters and the only thing I found was a set of bad bearings on the motor shaft which not only blows the air into the cab but also acts as the air compressor into the burn chamber. I lucked out and the bearings were well marked so I ordered a new bearing set and installed them. Tho heater works like new. It’s somewhat normal for the pump to hang loose but make sure it’s output side is facing up and on a 45° angle up to the fuel inlet on the heater or the pump will not work right. Interesting that the truck works with an air cooled engine. That about eight parts that cannot go bad.
Hi KJ, Good Luck with the fabulous Magirus. Great you are keeping her on the road. A great workhorse. I found the Webasto airtop 2000S-D workshop manual at butlertechnik which shows the complete installation and electrics. All spares are available. These are the Webasto terminal designations from DIS 72552: Terminal 15 = battery+ from ignition switch, Terminal 30 = from battery+ direct, permanent live, Terminal 31 = return to battery- or direct to ground, Terminal 58 = licence plate lights, instrument panel. Webasto units are very good but when the fan motor gets packed with snow in the winter it can blow the fuse as the motor draws too much current. Also the glow plug in the combustion chamber can break. It is possible the high current resistor that is broken is there to reduce the voltage from 24 down the 12V. It should be possible to replace it. Also some units have a programmable timer for automatic switch on. Love the videos.
I am so happy I found your channel! You have some cool hardware. I was a heavy equipment mechanic back in the late 80s . Do to a bad auto accident . I had to quit the job I loved . Your stuff is not as large but is very cool .
Greetings, KJ. Your project is coming along very well! I enjoy how you go over what some of the issues you are finding and how you go about solving the problems and how you make it better! Great job, sir!! 👍
Hi great content can't you source secondhand webasto, as previous stated I understand it's not cheap if you can when better dry weather comes in try and get some type 2 or gravel for outside you're garage it save truck tyres and garage floor from getting muddy,love the Maggie where I live a company ran about six of these as tankers carrying molasses regards from Scotland 🇬🇧🏴🇬🇧🚚⚙️🛠️
9x22.5 - old method of specifiying tyres when crossply/bias tyres were about. The 9" is the nominal width or height of the tyre. Metric direct equivalent would be 230/100 R 22.5 but 315/70 R 22.5 (or 275/80 R 22.5, very uncommon) would be the nearest available size, 315/80 R 22.5 is a bit bigger but a more common size.
If you replace the heater or repair this one, try to route the heating air intake also from the cabin, the open intake behind the bumper may have caused the unit to fail as well... Great progress, every ltlle thing counts even on these bigger rigs... 👍👍👍
Dear Kasper. 👍👌👏 2) The Webasto might have been used a lot as a kind of engine preheater besides being a cabin heater. Because just like firetrucks and ambulances, THW vehicles often have to be driven fast to wherever they're needed. Because nothing more worse than revving up a cold engine, a lot of emergency vehicles are constantly warmed up a bit. Maybe that's the reason why your additional heater was wired to function constantly? Best regards, luck and health in particular. Post Scriptum: Sir, please kindly allow me to ask respectively suggest something: Instead of getting even more vehicles (like the Dodge), why not investing in some truck loads of gravel to put (and compact) in front of your workshop? It's quite obvious that there is too much mud most of the time.
It's pretty weird to see an airtop mounted in the engine bay. I don't think, that it's a block heater, it is meant to heat the cabin. In the army we had Pinzgauer and Haflinger., both wirh aircooled engines. They had a windscreen defrost only, because that is upto code. The codriver could stick his frozen fingers into the slot, that was the only part of the body we could heat up. We always made jokes, that the heating only has two stages: Cold and fu**Ing cold 😂
@@stefankaufmann8257 Dear stefankaufmann... It's definitely mainly for cabin heating but maybe used for slightly preheating the engine too. I added something to 1 sentence of my comment to make it better understandable. 2) We had 3 big 22.000 ltr. Tanklastzüge when I was a kid in the 1960's and 70's, In winter time, the drivers wore thick clothes and shoes. Additionally they stuffed rags and clothes into the door gaps to stop cold air from coming in. I know that because sometimes respectively in certain situations my father drove one of the trucks and I was allowed went along. The last respectively newest truck we owned was a Daimler Benz 2020 with 200 hp. The tractor (Zugmaschine) had 3 axles and the first two were steering axles. The 3rd one was the drive axle with 2 tires on each side. 3) I guess that almost every VW Käfer (bug) driver knows exactly what you mean about putting the fingers near or almost into the windshield heating slots. Best regards, luck and health in particular.
@Chr.U.Cas1622 it is for cabin heatimg, because it's useless to heat the finned cylinders. If you want to heat the block of an aircooled engine - there are no larger aircooled engines in fact, they are cooled by the engine oil - you have to heat the oil pan. Compare the last aircooled Porsche engines, they contained about 13(!) liters of oil. Aircooled engines are cool - true. Air does not boil, air does not freeze ( Ferdinand Porsche). Since my years in the army, i hate camping and i hate aircooled engines.
@@stefankaufmann8257 As I said: "A kind of block heater". Maybe I should have written " A kind of engine preheater"? Simply because of the fact, that if you preheat the cabin of a vehicle (especially a cabover), almost everything gets warmed up at least a little bit! The seats, steering wheel, steering column, windshield/windows, the metal of the cabin and everything that is in the cabin or comes in contact with it. This is a physical fact and can't be denied. Of course would a water cooled engine be heated up even a bit more by only using an auxiliary heating respectively a Webasto parking heater. Because usually the heater core of the cooling systems water cycle is inside a cabin. But of course there are exceptions.
You are right. it makes sense for them to keep the engines warm. Although, that is not the case for this particualr heater. this one is only set up for heating the interior of the cab :) Well, to be fair, the last vehicles i got, i really didn't spend any money on :) But you are right. i really do need some compaced gravel, in front of the workshop. and i will. it's part of the plan, for when i get around to re-model my workshop :) Also, it has been unusually rainy this year. so it's the first time that the ground out here, has been this soft. so it really hansn't been that much of a problem, untill now. As usual, Thank you for watching along :)
Could you replace the oval headlights with twin 19cm dip/main on each side? Was there a version of the MD that had those lights? This would give you much more lighting at the front, without a LED roofbar.
Can't you, in Denmark, place DOT/SAE or E marked LED headlights on older vehicles? We can here across Skagerrak. And since May 5th last year (or so) we can - according to EU regulations - use E marked LED bulbs in Halogen headlights.
I can't replace the entire headlight for an led one, no. Even if it is marked and approved. the truck itself has to be approved for it as well. and also be equipped with automatic light-leveling. that also has to be approved. and no such approvals/parts exist for these old, unusual vehicles. But, the LED bulbs might be an option though. so that's the part im looking into :)
Where exactly are you located? There are square led lights for american style semi trucks (like 10x15cm), that also have european homologation. WIth a 3D printed bezzle, you could be able to mount them.
I put LED lights on my truck...they are good but a thing to remember is they don't get hot!! They will not melt snow off them, so you can end up with them caked up & you invisible! On the worn tyre...only seen that on tyres that are heavily cornered 😂 All the best from rural Portugal!
Buy a Chinese one buy 2 1 spare at the moment in Australia they are $ 100 aussie the board is $1000 dollars for webasto here no brainer china ones work great better controls 😮 love your channel
Didn't you notice the rust lines in the roof panels or did you just ignore them? I mean you had good access for a wire brush and some zinc spray.... HAD. Now it's blocked.
I did notice. and yeah. i mostly ignored it :) Thing is, those lines of "Rust" comes from some lines, where the roof panel is cripmed together, on the top side. so the rust is in between that, and impossible to get to. so just cleaning and dressing the bottom of that, really wouldnt make a differance anyway. But hopefully, now that there is some insualtion on there, there won't be much condensation and moisture up there, so it souldnt be getting any worse, for the next many years :)
I have driven a few forward control trucks with a front mounted winch, rather than hanging off of the steering wheel and forcing my face into the windscreen glass to see when the cable is wound back into the home position and not too far, I have found a small mirror mounted above the windscreen facing down onto the winch will save looking a circus act when securing the winch. Of course a small camera might be better but a mirror works just fine. Great content, happy new year.
That is a great suggestion
@@Frank-Thoresen I cannot claim the credit, it was a British Army staff suggestion scheme entry after so many of the rest of us pulled the hook off the end of the rope! I believe he was given a few hundred pounds for money saved.
Thats a good idea.
Most newer trucks here, also have front mirrors.
Not intended for winches, but rather just to be able to see whats right in front of the truck. :)
@@KJOff-Road You could use the spotlight bracket you took off the front. Just need to modify it to hold a small mirror
Hi Kasper ,in Canada on coaches we were using webasto, espar or pro heat heater system to heat it up the coach in very cold weather, It is like a little portable furnace working with fuel and they were programmable to start at a certain time very useful system.keep the good work from Richard in Canada.
Me parece un trabajo digno, muy decente además de necesario el aislamiento del techo de la cabina.
También hagas lo que hagas, ponle algún tipo de calefacción. A mi me resultaba muy desagradable conducir congelado en mi camión.
Te recomiendo estar muy seguro de querer meterte con la instalación eléctrica del camión. Si tienes la paciencia y los conocimientos, adelante. Si no, casi mejor lo remiendas lo mejor posible para que funcione todo y ya está.
Estoy de acuerdo con la gente que te sugiere ponerle un espejo para ver el frontal del camión, tanto para el winch, como para ver lo que tienes delante y asi evitarte algún disgusto.
Espero que el nuevo año te traiga muchos proyectos, muchas ganas de realizarlos y como no, muchas ganas de compartirlos.
Gracias por todo, un saludo.
KJ as usual love your videos and running commentary, to help maybe when cleaning or removing decals and sticky tapes etc try using eucalyptist oil as it really removes adhesives, and dries after 2 days or wash off with degreaser, also i often use vinegar to clean down electical connectors as its a mild acid and removes dirt corrosion and most mild oils
You can get overhaul kits for those heaters or just replace it with a knockoff.
The inlet for cabin air should be coming from inside the cabin.
You can put a Y valve in the inlet to balance exterior air and recirculating cabin air
7:37 9 and 11 22.5 tires are really common on big RV’s in the states. There is usually a nicer metric size tire that fits the same.
Hi jk the webasto heater is alway's live because it's used as a night heater in every European truck yes they are expensive to buy new and not so cheap to repair but my goodness they do a fantastic job at heating the truck cab, when I and many other drivers kept them on constantly in winter when we drove in the mountains of Europe you will find your fellow Danish drivers do the same but if you can remount it somewhere it can stay dry mine have always been mounted inside the cab unlike yours behind the front bumper, best of luck getting it repaired or replaced but please put it in the cab and in the dry thanks for another great video.p/s as for the headlights the early Scania's and some other truck's had oval lights and they got converted to twins ither side so I'm sure there is a conversion out there that's suitable for your maggy.
Just a hint, get yourself some hose the right diameter for the air input side of the heater section and run it into the cab. This way you can pull preheated air from within the cab. This way you are not heating cold air. You could even find a "Y" adapter for the input air hose and modify it so you could draw from both inside or outside air. I have several of the old Espar D1L heaters and the only thing I found was a set of bad bearings on the motor shaft which not only blows the air into the cab but also acts as the air compressor into the burn chamber. I lucked out and the bearings were well marked so I ordered a new bearing set and installed them. Tho heater works like new. It’s somewhat normal for the pump to hang loose but make sure it’s output side is facing up and on a 45° angle up to the fuel inlet on the heater or the pump will not work right.
Interesting that the truck works with an air cooled engine. That about eight parts that cannot go bad.
Hi KJ, Good Luck with the fabulous Magirus. Great you are keeping her on the road. A great workhorse. I found the Webasto airtop 2000S-D workshop manual at butlertechnik which shows the complete installation and electrics. All spares are available. These are the Webasto terminal designations from DIS 72552: Terminal 15 = battery+ from ignition switch, Terminal 30 = from battery+ direct, permanent live, Terminal 31 = return to battery- or direct to ground, Terminal 58 = licence plate lights, instrument panel. Webasto units are very good but when the fan motor gets packed with snow in the winter it can blow the fuse as the motor draws too much current. Also the glow plug in the combustion chamber can break. It is possible the high current resistor that is broken is there to reduce the voltage from 24 down the 12V. It should be possible to replace it. Also some units have a programmable timer for automatic switch on. Love the videos.
Good info. Thanks!
I am so happy I found your channel! You have some cool hardware. I was a heavy equipment mechanic back in the late 80s . Do to a bad auto accident . I had to quit the job I loved . Your stuff is not as large but is very cool .
thats the fun thing of being in a big shop on your own at night you get to play driver fitter
You’re making great progress! Stay strong 🇨🇦
Greetings, KJ. Your project is coming along very well! I enjoy how you go over what some of the issues you are finding and how you go about solving the problems and how you make it better! Great job, sir!! 👍
YEA! get ur truck heater working for winter time. back lights next.. lv the blue truck MD 170011
Great job with the roof. Well done.
Agree, this is becoming a lovely truck, great work!
Hi great content can't you source secondhand webasto, as previous stated I understand it's not cheap if you can when better dry weather comes in try and get some type 2 or gravel for outside you're garage it save truck tyres and garage floor from getting muddy,love the Maggie where I live a company ran about six of these as tankers carrying molasses regards from Scotland 🇬🇧🏴🇬🇧🚚⚙️🛠️
This one really hits, KJ Off-Road! btw, if you’re interested in elevating your storytelling or experimenting with shorts, I’d love to assist you guys.
9R22.5 is the tubeless replacement for the 8.25 20 tyre
Enjoy the videos and the details! Keep it up! Love Team Army Trucks! LOL, kidding, KJ Offroad is great, sir.
Haha. the real ones will be those that remember Team Army Trucks :)
9x22.5 - old method of specifiying tyres when crossply/bias tyres were about. The 9" is the nominal width or height of the tyre. Metric direct equivalent would be 230/100 R 22.5 but 315/70 R 22.5 (or 275/80 R 22.5, very uncommon) would be the nearest available size, 315/80 R 22.5 is a bit bigger but a more common size.
If you replace the heater or repair this one, try to route the heating air intake also from the cabin, the open intake behind the bumper may have caused the unit to fail as well...
Great progress, every ltlle thing counts even on these bigger rigs...
👍👍👍
Better to take fresh air from outside, don't recirculate hot air inside a cab that you may spend 10 hours in.
Thanks for sharing and taking us along
I recommend that you order 5kW diesel heater or 8kW diesel heater.
Dear Kasper.
👍👌👏 2) The Webasto might have been used a lot as a kind of engine preheater besides being a cabin heater. Because just like firetrucks and ambulances, THW vehicles often have to be driven fast to wherever they're needed. Because nothing more worse than revving up a cold engine, a lot of emergency vehicles are constantly warmed up a bit. Maybe that's the reason why your additional heater was wired to function constantly?
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
Post Scriptum: Sir, please kindly allow me to ask respectively suggest something: Instead of getting even more vehicles (like the Dodge), why not investing in some truck loads of gravel to put (and compact) in front of your workshop? It's quite obvious that there is too much mud most of the time.
It's pretty weird to see an airtop mounted in the engine bay. I don't think, that it's a block heater, it is meant to heat the cabin.
In the army we had Pinzgauer and Haflinger., both wirh aircooled engines. They had a windscreen defrost only, because that is upto code. The codriver could stick his frozen fingers into the slot, that was the only part of the body we could heat up. We always made jokes, that the heating only has two stages: Cold and fu**Ing cold 😂
@@stefankaufmann8257
Dear stefankaufmann...
It's definitely mainly for cabin heating but maybe used for slightly preheating the engine too. I added something to 1 sentence of my comment to make it better understandable. 2) We had 3 big 22.000 ltr. Tanklastzüge when I was a kid in the 1960's and 70's, In winter time, the drivers wore thick clothes and shoes. Additionally they stuffed rags and clothes into the door gaps to stop cold air from coming in. I know that because sometimes respectively in certain situations my father drove one of the trucks and I was allowed went along. The last respectively newest truck we owned was a Daimler Benz 2020 with 200 hp. The tractor (Zugmaschine) had 3 axles and the first two were steering axles. The 3rd one was the drive axle with 2 tires on each side.
3) I guess that almost every VW Käfer (bug) driver knows exactly what you mean about putting the fingers near or almost into the windshield heating slots.
Best regards, luck and health in particular.
@Chr.U.Cas1622 it is for cabin heatimg, because it's useless to heat the finned cylinders. If you want to heat the block of an aircooled engine - there are no larger aircooled engines in fact, they are cooled by the engine oil - you have to heat the oil pan. Compare the last aircooled Porsche engines, they contained about 13(!) liters of oil.
Aircooled engines are cool - true. Air does not boil, air does not freeze ( Ferdinand Porsche). Since my years in the army, i hate camping and i hate aircooled engines.
@@stefankaufmann8257
As I said: "A kind of block heater". Maybe I should have written " A kind of engine preheater"? Simply because of the fact, that if you preheat the cabin of a vehicle (especially a cabover), almost everything gets warmed up at least a little bit! The seats, steering wheel, steering column, windshield/windows, the metal of the cabin and everything that is in the cabin or comes in contact with it. This is a physical fact and can't be denied. Of course would a water cooled engine be heated up even a bit more by only using an auxiliary heating respectively a Webasto parking heater. Because usually the heater core of the cooling systems water cycle is inside a cabin. But of course there are exceptions.
You are right. it makes sense for them to keep the engines warm.
Although, that is not the case for this particualr heater. this one is only set up for heating the interior of the cab :)
Well, to be fair, the last vehicles i got, i really didn't spend any money on :)
But you are right. i really do need some compaced gravel, in front of the workshop. and i will. it's part of the plan, for when i get around to re-model my workshop :)
Also, it has been unusually rainy this year. so it's the first time that the ground out here, has been this soft. so it really hansn't been that much of a problem, untill now.
As usual, Thank you for watching along :)
Great vid as ever! but please.... no LED's :(
Nice improvements!
Great job :).
When do you continue working on the Unimog?
Greetings :)
Could also be a bad earth, Relays can work intermittently which can cause similar problems to your vehicle.🇬🇧🇮🇪.
Great Channel
Looking good
Could you replace the oval headlights with twin 19cm dip/main on each side? Was there a version of the MD that had those lights? This would give you much more lighting at the front, without a LED roofbar.
I could. but that would also not be road legal. as i can only have two dip-beam head lights.
We have strangely strict rules, regarding the lights.
@@KJOff-RoadYou could have 2 lights on each side. One dipped and the other for main beam. Like the Ford Capri. Or older model BMW 5 series
"Hamburger lights?" LOL!
Maybe you could just get some LED bulbs for the front lights?
Can't you, in Denmark, place DOT/SAE or E marked LED headlights on older vehicles?
We can here across Skagerrak.
And since May 5th last year (or so) we can - according to EU regulations - use E marked LED bulbs in Halogen headlights.
I can't replace the entire headlight for an led one, no.
Even if it is marked and approved. the truck itself has to be approved for it as well. and also be equipped with automatic light-leveling. that also has to be approved. and no such approvals/parts exist for these old, unusual vehicles.
But, the LED bulbs might be an option though. so that's the part im looking into :)
Where exactly are you located? There are square led lights for american style semi trucks (like 10x15cm), that also have european homologation. WIth a 3D printed bezzle, you could be able to mount them.
i'm in Denmark.
We have extremely strict rules, regarding lights. so that would also not be road-legal :)
Du kan købe en standard 7" rund tysk forlygte, de er godkendt med Osram og Phillips H4 LED
I put LED lights on my truck...they are good but a thing to remember is they don't get hot!! They will not melt snow off them, so you can end up with them caked up & you invisible!
On the worn tyre...only seen that on tyres that are heavily cornered 😂
All the best from rural Portugal!
Buy a Chinese one buy 2 1 spare at the moment in Australia they are $ 100 aussie the board is $1000 dollars for webasto here no brainer china ones work great better controls 😮 love your channel
👍👍👍
when you sink a single wheel axel she goes deep
Why don't you dump a truckload of gravel in front of the garage so you don't get all that mud inside the garage?
Because it's expensive :)
But i will. whenever i get to remodel the workshop :)
👍
Toyo M 608Z 9R22.5 G/14PLY
👋😀🇬🇧
Didn't you notice the rust lines in the roof panels or did you just ignore them? I mean you had good access for a wire brush and some zinc spray.... HAD. Now it's blocked.
Looks more like some undercoating, Tectyl ore similar.
I did notice. and yeah. i mostly ignored it :)
Thing is, those lines of "Rust" comes from some lines, where the roof panel is cripmed together, on the top side.
so the rust is in between that, and impossible to get to. so just cleaning and dressing the bottom of that, really wouldnt make a differance anyway.
But hopefully, now that there is some insualtion on there, there won't be much condensation and moisture up there, so it souldnt be getting any worse, for the next many years :)
@@KJOff-Road I wish the best, but I guess this lack of additional work of max an hour will come will bite you in the ass in foreseeable time.
Hej et tips vis du ikke kender den app. Kleinanzeigen Tyskland g&g der kan du finde dele Mvh kennet