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New Mexican chest lock - part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- I have seen quite a few of these chest locks in galleries and museums in New Mexico. I am by no means a locksmith and this is will be a fairly crude lock. But with any luck I will learn new things to apply on future lock projects. This is part 1 of the New Mexican chest lock.
00:00 - Overview
03:58 - Materials
06:34 - Lock plate
10::35 - Bolt
21:49 - Keyhole
26:09 - Keeper
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Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.
I for one love the longer content. And the talking, its great, its the best way of teaching.
Thanks, I like these kind of videos. Especially because you do it by hand and tell the story.
More to come!
It seems like every time I am watching, and start to wonder about something, John chimes in and explains exactly what I was wondering about! Lol. Thanks John! I enjoy watching and learning
Thank you John, looks like this is going to be a great series!!
Thanks, I just hope it works smoothly when its all done
Thanks John. I never thought I would find this so interesting. Can't wait for part 2. Glad you got the rain you needed.
What a cool project!! I am going to make one for my shop door!!! For me, your videos can't be long enough, I can listen to you talk all day..
I’m glad to see you branch out into new territory
As Mr. Spock would say, "fascinating." Can't wait for part 2.
this is some neat content. It kind of explains why the old padlocks were so big.
I began smithing nearly a year and a half ago in an 18th century forge that once stood in Northern Ireland. Having to learn without electricity or modern tools, your videos have been invaluable and you're my number one resource (along with the other smith I work with in the forge) for ideas and learning. Thought I'd finally give a comment and send a thank you for all of your work with the videos.
A few weeks ago I purchased the New Spruce Forge manual and am gearing up to attempt one of the locks. Looking forward to the next video!
Sounds like a great work environment to learn in
I would have been very appreciative to have had you as a shop teacher/trades instructor in middleschool/highschool those oh so many years ago now.👍😄
I say you provide good balance of talking and demonstration/practical application in your videos.
Not tiresome to watch or listen for the mechanically-minded who like learning from skilled and experienced tradesmen.
Looking forward to the next installment.
👍💯✝️🕊️
I really enjoy the explanations of the thought processes and the following implementation of them. The spring being only lightly hardened makes sense especially if it is a part of a daily used lock 😀
The only problem I see is, I have to wait for part two! 😂 This is awesome John! I’m definitely digging it!
Thanks John, this one is on my list!
Fascinating to see how many mediums you have to know before you ever pick up a hammer. Stay safe out there
I’m glad you are doing this series. A couple years ago I started making a padlock with the body in the shape of a Fleur de lise (?Sp.) and the body shape was as far as I got before quitting. Now I just may go and slay that dragon!
Can't wait for part two
Thanks John, just what I need, to make a lock for my door on my blacksmith shop, right after I make the door.
Thanks for sharing
Glad it helps
That's a lot of file work. Very interesting John , can't wait for part 2
Should be in a few weeks
This is great! Really looking forward to seeing parts 2 and 3.
Very cool build. Thanks John sir
Frank was a blast! Had the pleasure of learning from him in the early 90’s
That was awesome John. Never put much thought into the door locks until now. That took some engineering and fabricating too. Thanks for sharing with us John. Stay safe around there and keep up the fun you have making them. Fred.
looks like its going to be fairly simple lock to make, hope you guys make it through the fire out there
It's still three miles away and isn't moving this direction. 59% containment as of today.
@BlackBearForge good deal, last I want to see is a video from one of my favorite blacksmiths saying he lost everything in the fire or anyone in general
25:22 Somewhere I learned that when filing, to keep the annoying ringing down, clamp a vice-grip or something similar on the end of the work where it hangs out of the vice, it’ll dampen the vibration and cut the noise.
Good idea
Lovely project. Nice to see all the hand tool working. I was inspired by earlier videos last Christmas to make a small steel witch out of sheet metal cutting with a chisel for a present. It came out delightfully. Thank you for sharing!
glad are you are safe, that is very important
This is really cool John. Love your work.
Thank you for this video John 😊
Great start, I've never thought to research anything about lock making, looking forward to part two!
thanks..
..Black Art Forge..
Thank you for a very interesting video.
Interesting!
Greetings from Toledo Spain..🇪🇸🇺🇸
I'm enjoying this series of videos, you make it interesting and I enjoy learning new things.
Glad you enjoy it!
A lot of 18th cen locks have two notches in the bolt and it takes two rotations to lock and unlock. That addresses the short throw of the key.
Thanks a lot, awesome as usual
That spring is out of a vehicle (most likely truck) hood to help take the weight off when opening the hood. Good material
Neat project. Makes me want to see how diabolical I could design and build my own lock. I have a good collection of tools, but no forge. Yet. 👍🏻
Great video John. Long is good! I need that detail. Otherwise when I try myself, I end up stuck thinking WWJD. What would John do? I look forward to part 2!
On the next one, try locking in some parts and fitting/making new parts to match with it. For instance, instead of guessing where the notch for the key goes in the bolt, get the key swinging in the lock and locate the parts for the bolt so that you know where it is located. Then you can locate that notch and it will be exactly where it needs to be, instead of guessing and hoping that all of the loose parts you are working with line up.
I love your content.
Have you ever thought about making a flint lock? You could make a year-long series out of it. I attempted it, but it is a big challenge
I have made one using a premade barrel and lock in kit form
Excellent!
Great project, looking forward to seeing more.
That lock works like a suitcase lock.
Thanks John for a great and courageous video
Glad you enjoyed it. There will certainly be a learning curve to become more proficient at such things.
A fair number of Northern European locks had just one piece for the key to bear against, it pushed the bolt from the 'outside', not in the middle. If you are doing hot work (and all files were hand made with a chisel cutting one tooth at a time) it is easier (and much cheaper) to just draw out the ends of the bolt from a wider piece of stock. As the key turns it hits the tail of the spring first, lifts the detent out of its notch then the key hits the extension on the bolt and moves it to lock or unlock. More sophisitcated bolts had a notch to lock the bolt open as well as closed. Then you start to get into really old designs where there is an 'L' shaped keyhole and the key engages in the bolt to move it (and the Romans & later sometimes used a sliding fake rivet to move the bolt, the key only lifted the spring).
Great stuff, thanks!!
What i learned in school back in 1986
Springs should be tempred back to dark blue
And couldn't you make a double keyslot in the lockbar to make it a 2 keyturn lock in order to get more travel?
Try lubricating the blade on the jewellers' saw. A bit of soap or most jewellers use saliva.
Hi sir
I we’ll died for blacksmith exactly when you are working your home working
Bedankt
Thank you so much
Old style Briefcase lock? Internal bar goes through the hasp, hasp on a hinged arm, hasp swings down goes through the face plate. similar set up
Watching you try the key and bolt, maybe the notch in the bolt could be cut only the width of the key tab, pushing/pulling the bolt further distance?
It would be worth trying
Not making any locks at the moment, am more curious about the colors of the materials for a bold demascus pattern, i have circular saw blades( from concrete to wood cutting), a small bit of jackhammer bit, some roller bearings and races, 1095 powder, and leaf springs, which ones contrast best against the others? Will probably end up jelly roll first, cut 4 pieces, put in a canister like a clover leaf pattern, am trying for a magnetic field look, similar to the pattern on the television screen if you bring a magnet up to it.
Wooooo!!!!!
@blackbearforge What type of blade do you use on your hacksaw? I can never get my bi-metal blades to cut that quickly.
I like the Starrett blades, but any premium bi metal blade will greatly out perform the cheaper ones.
John want is the tooth count on the hacksaw blade that you are using?
I use 18 tpi for most things and 24 tpi for very thin material
What brand of saw blades do you prefer for that jeweler's saw?
The blades I have are from Zona and are a #4. But I haven’t used them enough to say I have a preference
no sleeping here
John, heard there might be some danger near you. You okay?
There is a wildfire about three miles from us, but it hasn't moved in our direction. Something like 500 personnel fighting the fire last I heard.
@@BlackBearForge very glad to hear that!!
Is Colorado like California, where they don’t do prescribed fire?
@@CausticPuffin they do, but we get a lot of natural fires from lightning and other silliness.