Amphibious Jet Boat, Part 2 , How To Build Intake
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Cbr600 powered jet boat gets an intake built for the jet unit as well as repairs to the impeller and stator.
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Very cool!
Thanks 👍
the argon thing is true, Argon is an inert noble gas 1.38 times the density of air. so it doesn't react with anything and displaces other useful things like oxygen. it can sit in your lungs but you should be able to expel it with a few big breaths, either laying on the floor or sitting with head between your knees. The symptoms are dizzyness, shortness of breath, tingly fingers, spotty or dim vision, ie asphyxiation
Loved the the new intake design with the sheet on the front side! Great work bud👊🏻
Thanks! Where’s your build? Hanging out for it! You see vasily builds hayabusa jet boat that will be cool!
I use 3DLAC for my bed adhesion, it's basically ultra strong hairspray and, for the most part, objects pop off when the bed cools. And when they don't I put my bed in the fridge for ten mins and they print comes off easily.
I have never had problems with adhesion ever since I bought it. (I was in the same boat as you before, prints unsticking from the bed) And at also means I can reduce the elephants foot effect on those first few layers of the print as I'm able to pull up the nozzle a bit.
There are many options out there, but this one has never failed me. Of course this is just, like, my opinion, man.
Ok I think hairspray might be the go , do you spray it before each print?
@@DktheWelder Could have sworn I replied to this. So I'll give you the short answer! No, you shouldn't need to, for the 3DLAC i just move around the bed printing on the parts where there is still spray. Also, small amounts should do depending on the spray you get, go for the strongest you can find if you cant get 3DLAC. You might have to read a few Cosmopolitan reviews to find the best hairspray! 😂
Great projects btw, really enjoying your content.
Glue sticks on the glass bed works like a charm
There are several methods to improve the sticking of your 3D prints. First I would make sure that the bed is _really_ clean, that makes a lot of difference as well. Beyond that you can also increase the bed temperature to get it to stick better, with PLA you can go up to about 70 C. Glue sticks and brims are also an option but I find them annoying
Glue stick works great for adhesion.
Such a great job on that jet unit. Mate try masking tape (painters tape) on your glass bed. Just a few strips in a single layer and print on that. It has really high surface area and prints stick very well. Glue stick doesn't tolerate heated beds well, but is also and option worth trying.
I did end up trying glue stick and it worked but not sure how long it will last, thanks for the tips!
Mean Bro, love watching you work, ad figure shit out on the fly. Keep it up!
👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Hairspray on kapton tape works well too
Awesome build series, I've been playing with jet pump ideas in my head for a while.
A few things for 3d printing.
1. I personally use Elmer's glue stick on my bed. Or I found an Elmer's pump sprayer of school glue that's pretty much the same.
2.Clean bed / with some isopropyl alcohol wipe down before printing. Dust can effect it.
3. if you aren't using pla + look into it. I switched and I'll never look back.
Thanks, I am using glue stick now which works great . I tried PLA + and it worked well but it’s quite expensive
I've heard that argon rumor too. When I don't wear a respirator, I have definitely felt my throat getting scratchy from inhaling argon. Never had trouble breathing though. Maybe I just didn't inhale too much of it.
I’m not sure about it I wear my adflow all the time now , there are a lot of old welders around that seem fine haha
Hairspray for the printer. Works every time
I Like the video before it's even started just so I don't forget 🤣
Looks great! I did mine the exact same way, and have a video on it as well.
I did mine with a ball peen hammer lol, my goal was smooth seamless pump flow, which becomes less important if the rig wont go over 30mph but I ended up with 35MPH fully loaded with a 787cc.
Had to use bondo in from of the intake to help make it 100% seamless which ended up acting as a slight "Spoon" and its been taking the beating for some years!
O nice! I don’t really think mine is going to be very efficient but for the amphibious trike thing I think it will work well
@@DktheWelder Looking forward to more!
Ive been 3D Printing only for about 3 or 4 yrs now, ive made anything from little trinkets to an RC Plane (that worked!) and a Ironman Helmet for my kid. Anytime I get any slippage I use All Weather AQUA NET Hairspray Extra Super Hold!! Just a Spray in the Area and thats all You need! Ive used on a glass bed and a heated Magnetic bed. If you ever have trouble getting pieces off try squirting a little 50/50 Water and 70% Rubbing Alcohol, should break free No Problemmmmm!!
Thanks I have been using glue stick now with success but it gets a bit lumpy after a few prints might need some rubbing alcohol 👍
I don't think you need to hang upside down to get the argon out of your lungs. Normal deep breaths should be fine. Cody's Lab did a video where he breathed in a bunch of gases including argon and xenon with no issue getting it out after a few breaths. Will kill you dead if you breath it in repeatedly though, such as in a confined space.
O cool I might watch that! Thanks
Good
I put a BL Touch on my printer. It took me six years to make the jump to the BL… I wished I didn’t wait so long. I used to use hairspray because I didn’t like the way glue stick looked after the print.. with the BL touch I will occasionally use hairspray and that’s it.
Great progress and skills. 👍
I've never printed a cone just smoked one, the more solid the better I've found
Haha👍👍👍
Looking good.
I think I need to start learning welding too :-)
If you have a heated bed you can print the bottom layers with the temperature 5-10°c higher than the rest of the print, it greatly helps with bed adhesion.
Thanks I didn’t know you could do that, there are so many settings to go through
@@DktheWelder Yeah. Your printer and its environment seem good so I think a slight increase will do wonders. I personally print PLA at 215° nozzle and 65° bed for the first layer and 210°/60° for the other layers and I haven't had any major issues.
I have often thought about putting in a vertical divider to prevent vortex forming and losing pump performance.
Good work great to see you having a crack🤙😎
if the glassbed dont stick well, clean the pad with brakecleaner.
Little late for the comment... but I heat up the bed. Clean with rubbing alcohol and then apply glue stick. Very thin layer. I even have a wham bam bed. Usually have zero problems with pieces staying till I remove.
Thanks, I have been using glue stick now
inspiring
I use glue stick just got to clean it off each time. But if you normally get good prints maybe just clean bed surface with isopropyl alcohol before the oils from your hand can stop your print from sticking.
Maybe that’s what it is , I am always pulling pieces of plastic off the bed!
Nice
I have been 3d printing for a while. Make sure the glass is clean and dust free. Spray a little squirt of hairspray and let it dry. If it's a heated bed, start at 50c as this is my standard bed temp. Set the bed hight so the first lines of print feels like about haft the material is squashed like this (
Once it's all set and you get good adherence I just add a fresh spray of hairspray ow and then, wash about ever 15 prints.
Saying that the print being that shape I would have issues with the nozzle knocking it on the sides.
Legend
I like it
Daniel order yourself the creality flexible PEI build sheet! get away from that horrid glass! they are spring steel and attach with magnets and have superior adhesion and are really easy to get parts off due to it being flexible!
I haven’t heard of that, it came with a fibreglass bed that would never sit flat . The glass one has been really good but sometimes get a messed up print. I like the spring steel idea
Oh man I have a seadoo pump sitting in the shed with no intake! I need to build something like this !
It is actually a fun project to build it
the glue stick will work awesome but sometimes its hard to get the prints off
I cover the bed of my printer with blue painters tape and it works like a hot damn.
its called layershift. now you can look up causes and fixes =)
i dont runt enders glass, but a mirror on my ender. as long as its clean, everything sticks. if im worried, or there is some .05mm part contacting only, i can give it a 3dlac+ squirt.
My sister runs enders glass bed on her max, and weve had to rough it up with some sand paper, and increase the temp towards 60 for pla to stick somewhat ok
A little bit of stick glue helps adhere to the bed plate. A lot of times you may be having issues with bed leveling, bed temp, (Hotter helps stick to the plate) Make sure your 1st layer is nice and tight against the bed. When I first started printing I could not get my prints to stick. I tried EVERYTHING... The biggest unseen issue with 3d printers is if you have just a SLIGHT bit of oil on the bed plate it will stop adhesion. If you try anything ive said at least grab some 99% ISO alch and clean the build plate with HOT water first, dawn soap, Hot water rinse, then finally clean it off with just the ISO alch. You dont realize how the smallest of oil will prevent prints from sticking. Let me know if you get it sticking better!
I did end up finding some glue stick and it worked so I will keep experimenting, thanks a lot for your input, I also don’t adjust my layers and stuff I pretty much print using default settings. I should put a bit more effort in I think 👍
@@DktheWelder let me know if you have any questions! I 3D print as a side gig and have lots of shareable knowledge. Keep up the great videos !
hmm argon is a fairly heavy gas, heavier than air anyway. I could see inhaling it if you were welding in an enclosed space like a locker/mechanical space or seat box of some kind. At that point I would be more worried about it displacing oxygen though. Speedglass is great just wish the lenses were cheaper. My blower just shit the bed after two years too... time to get another one, it happened at work so hopefully they can buy it for me.
I know they are so expensive!
@@DktheWelder What size pipe did you use for final shaping in the press?
@@venture17fly I think 100nb so about 115 mm outside diameter
Im selling a left hand spanner with 360 deg capacity in the 3rd dimension, good job sir 👍
Oh hell yes! that will make a world of difference. plus you mentioned 4 wheels....does that mean its finally going to get 4 wheel drive?
I have been thinking about 4 wheel drive but it will be pretty difficult because the the wheels have to lift out of the water. But anything is possible I guess 👍
Keep up the good work. You are a good fabricator. What welder are you using. Do you think it's good. Looking forward to the next video.
It is a BOC 185amp ac/dc I think it is a Chinese brand rebranded. It works really well and have used it for a few years , we have the same one at work and it never has issues
What ya were wonderin about argon isnt true,it will just kill ya and its heavier than air so dependin on ya weldin style and where ya are it will just fall down/get blown away
and 100% infill may hurt strength actually, and takes alot more time and plastic. try experimenting with wall count, and "connect infill to walls" and "alternate infill wall" :D
Ok thanks I will look into that👍
i use glustick and run first layer slow
dont know about the argon, i do know about the other gasses that you get when welding aluminium. I had to stop working for a few days because of inhaling a bit of it while mig welding aluminium. I allmost couldnt breed for like 60 min, and breathing was still kind of hard for 3 days after. So i was actually thinking about investing in a fresh air helmet as wel.
Wow that does sound awful! The helmet are so comfortable and nice breathing the fresh air all day
Argon is heavy but if you can breathe it in, you can breathe it out. Unless you have lung problems.
I use the stock ender 3 bed and PLA never slips unless the bed height is too low or the part is very thin but large enough to use the entire build volume. I don't need anything fancy to print ABS either. Just a cardboard box to enclose the printer and a brim because it's cheap insurance. I see you have a pristine ender 3 bed in the background, how come you don't use that?
That bed is great for sticking parts to but wont sit flat enough, the glass one I have on now works really well just some prints don’t stick
Oh you must be printing much more precise parts than me. I have noticed my bed isn't completely flat but I've never seen it affect the function of the parts
Painters tape and glue stick on the 3d printer bed
1:50 whats gonna be the rpm on that cone? i really wonder if it can handle the g-force.
The cone stays still
If you have to breathe upside it’s not to get the Argon out of your lunges, but rather to get the mushrooms out of your head ;P
Green masking tape on the bed.
purple stick elmers glue
Heavier-than-air gases will sit in the bottom of your lungs...In the 90's I worked in a factory laminating glassfibre and my breath smelled of the styrene in the resin. In those days styrene was considered non-hazardous and there were no precautions taken. I doubt its the same today...
Me too. I don't know what it was like where you worked, but we were washing our hands in acetone 25 times a day. The styrene always smelled like cat pee to me
It is hard to know with argon because you can’t taste or smell it so wouldn’t know. But it the styrene was on your breath it must be getting stuck in your lungs
Nice work! What diameter is your impeller?
145 mm
Any other cone fans out there?
Yea those helmets are good until your mate farts in the air intake.
I know I have experienced that a lot!
haha yea mate argon in the lungs sucks, its not just with tig, mig will get ya too. and yea invert yourself is the only real fix, it dosnt take long normally i just hang over a chair or something to raise the waist above the mouth and a few long full deep breaths will clear most of it out and your good to go again, the worst part is unless you know what is going on you wont even realize what is going on you just feel knackered, tired and out of breath,ish . it can creep up on you real quick too, to the point you feel light headed sort of but its just lack of oxygen, i know i shouldent but i have a fair bit of experience with this. lol dont tell h&s
Thanks, I thought it was a myth good to hear it from someone else ! Maybe that’s why I get so sleepy at work haha
@@DktheWelder Get yourself a pulse oximeter - should be about $70 from the chemist. Clips on your finger and tells you the oxygen level in your blood, which indicates how well your lungs are working, and whether there's a problem.
Luck for you being down under you wont have the argon problem there................
Your cheating with all that machinery! Have you come across any of my builds?
I just watched the drill powered skates that’s really good stuff! Is your channel all shorts?
A build-off would be cool one day!
@@DktheWelder yeah has been all shorts while I was trying to get use to filming while working. Most of my uploads have been on TikTok. Just finished editing the horizontal video JerryBike build.
get holdd of dimafix glue
Its an old wives tale some joke about how wives of welders will hang there husband's upside down when they get home from work the reality is yea you might breath the odd bit in but you breath it out just as easy
Haha thought that might be the case
False about the argon. The velocity that air moves through your alveoli is way too high to separate
www.hse.gov.uk/welding/asphyxiation-hazards.htm
I recently got a 3d printer and it was driving me up the wall with prints not sticking but I found if I set the bed to 60 degrees and wipe the bed down with meths before every print parts stick amazing, sometimes a little to well that I'm afraid I'm gonna smash the bed trying to get it off😂
I haven’t heard about the meths way, it makes sense though would make the first layer more sticky