Those biggest waves were definitely massive and virtually unrideable, so I have respect for those who tried and went through so much to get a wave. As for the size, I know this is a tough thing to judge when they are so large. But I don't think I saw a wave I would guess to be 30' plus. Maybe 20-25'. The distance from the crest to the trough is a bit tricky to judge, but in your initial analysis using the pointer, I think maybe you considered the bottom of the wave too low--below the true bottom of the trough. Oh well, I'm no expert either.
Aye. I think Brad got a little fudgy on the 30+ estimate. But I appreciate the try. Either way fun vid as always. Poor guy at @0:27 was probably sorry he was ever born ;-)
30 ft is starting to be Mavericks size. Those weren't 30 ft but probably close to 20 ft in the video. Jan 14 was a massive day though and with lots of rain out.
I spent the first 30 yrs of my life living just north of El Porto in Westchester/ Playa Del Rey. One of the places that helped me learn to surf was El Porto and the double break when it got big storm swells. The inside waves were safe. Great footage. I've actually seen it big like this many times, I'm 57 yrs old. I've seen it like this, 15 feet, but with better shape, not closing out. One of my best and oldest friends, since 1st grade, lived above the parking lot at Porto from about 19 yrs old until late 30s. The problem with the Santa Monica Bay Beaches is the direct West facing coastline, especially mid and southbay. Storms will build sandbars and then storms wash them away. Waves will get big but the shape is usually not great. But, I've seen with my own eyes and good friends from the neighborhood have photos of epic surf at El Porto that you would think you were looking at waves from Hawai'i or Tavarua or Jeffrie's. Great video. Measuring waves is always an arguable subject. These were not 30ft or at least the ones in the video weren't. 15-18 ft maybe 20ft and even that is arguable to some people.
Im kind of glad you did this. It gives me perspective. Now that ive seen this, I can honestly answer people when they ask me the biggest waves ive ridden
Been loving these videos! Would you be able to include the surf report in these videos? Like wave height from the buoy, swell interval, height of the tide rising/dropping? I think a few of us out here would appreciate those small details! Thanks!
Great birdseye view. I have some footage from porto from ‘98. It was probably half that size. I hadnt surfed for 5 years. I borrowed a board from a friend who wanted nothing to do with 15ft porto. I took the beating of my life trying to get out. Closest ive ever been to drowning. I finally made it, caught my breath, contemplated my life, took one wave and rode it all the way to the beach. Inside was firing... perfect 8’ barrels. My brother and his friend were body boarding it. They probably had way more fun than I did. Thanks again for the rad footage.
I had never believed our local Los Angeles beaches had the ability to bring these kind of waves. I think I must return to the ocean once again. Thank you for bringing back my stoke!
Something that shouldn't go unnoticed. The speed at which the huge outside waves are being cleared by surfers while paddling out tells you how difficult it is to get the perfect timing to catch one.
I appreciate how you highlight the difficulty of paddling out through big waves. I was on a 8 foot Costco foamy for a while and trying to paddle out through sizeable sets at Blacks Beach was just impossible. I mean I didn't have the greatest physical strength but it was so demoralizing to not even be able to make it past the breakers sometimes
haha gotta love the costco wavestorm special! it's unironically a great starter board, but definitely don't feel bad about not being able to make it out on the bigger days on one of those, it can be tricky to get that much foam under/past breaking waves. we've all been there at some point. Good luck out there!
'or how to get in' Indeed. Once I was out on a big day at Manresa with a friend and in about 15 minutes it went from big rideable to larger 100 yard long booming closeouts every wave. A young surfer paddled up and asked us what to do. You gotta catch one, go straight and don't fall I said. My friend and I took off together and looked at each other with big smiles after making the drop.
The narration and explanation of the different types of waves, the problems they presented, the problems the surfers had, and so on.....that was just excellent. Really informative and makes what goes on in the video so much more interesting and understandable. The remarks about the direction of the wind and how this made the surf look...this was so good. This man should write. He certainly should write commentaries to most videos about surfing. I'm sure that surfers understand all these things. But there are those who find it really interesting to look at these videos, but can't understand the significance of what is shown. I'm in that category. I find such videos so interesting. Yet don't really understand what I'm seeing. There is zero chance that I'll ever even stand on a shore. I have a genetic neurological problem. My life takes place on a cheap mattress, with my head & knees propped up, & my right hand resting on my stomach with a pc mouse in it. I can move my right hand, so I can select things to watch on TH-cam. I wish this fellow did the narration of most videos that are about looking at waves and surfing. He really brings out what is happening and makes it come alive for people like me.
Totally agree! I am no surfer, heck I’m too terrified to go near a 2 foot wave let alone anything past my toes in the tiny, sweet mannered, lapping surf but I absolutely love watching people surf big and small sets.. from the comfort of my home 😊
Damn that's incredible. Even the inside wave is real enough but doable and then you see the wall of the next outside coming in behind...those outside monsters are way to big and unruly can't tell which one is gonna break and which one is gonna just smash wow and props to the guys that went for it. What a hefty paddle out huh?
I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down was 1,1-1,2 secondes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. A wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secondes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube. But waves are not measured from the back or front. They are measured peak to peak or amplitude in y direction and periode or velocity in x direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.
I think it was the same day; Zuma was as giant as could be. Pouring rain, heavy offshores, perfect rights holding up, no one out. Thrilling to see that much power and beauty in LA.
Amazing session. I've been washed to shore at Mushrooms, down by K38 on a big, consistent day, but it wasn't near this big. There were those big rocks so as I got washed toward them I had to paddle to a big one and climb on.
A few problems with this math. 1. Always assume a surfer is about 5ft tall because it's rare that while riding a wave or paddling that one would be standing straight up or fully stretched out. so with crunch space, 5ft is the metric. 2. From the vantage point the trough is actually higher up. The period makes it seem bigger since there is longer distance between sets, the best vantage point for exact measurement is as close to the water line as possible. I'd say that wave was between 15-18ft. But thats just my best guess. It's not an exact science. I'm from Florida so we exaggerate everything over here, 3ft is head high, 6 is 8, 10 is 20. But everywhere exaggerates Hawaii kind of undersells it until it's really big and then everything is 50ft. And I'd say the size of the face isn't really the best measure of how big a wave is either, the intensity of certain breaks just hits different at different swell heights.
if porto was 30ft then ocean beach was 100ft. Your arrows go way down into the flats. Massive waves for SoCal and very heavy but call it what it is: 6-12ft
@@J_h_420 12ft beach break is no joke double black diamond but 20ft is like small Mavericks big wave surfing and that is not what went down in Manhattan Beach.
I think you meant to say "dark and ominous," not "dark and omnibus." Omnibus is a group of novels in a book. Also, that may be big for LA, but it's really not that big at all... not 33 feet at all. Maybe 14-16 feet on the sets. Most waves that were caught were maybe 6-8 feet.
Really enjoy your videos, Brad. You had to have heard this before, but your narrating style reminds me of Warren Miller in his ski films. Is it just my imagination, or was he an influence on you, whether consciously or unconsciously?
@@TheFatblob25 I dont think I have seen a normal left or right barrel surfable for more than a few seconds? Maybe windsurf up or down the coast, depending on wind and swell directions? Flying past all those sea stacks, that would be crazy.
Dang! I’ve lived in SoCal my whole life and I’ve never seen waves that big here. I think the biggest I’ve seen was around twelve foot at Zuma beach this past summer and I thought those were scary. Wow! So cool that you caught these on camera.
I lived right there almost next door on the strand in 1976 where I met my wife Kim Wolterman RIP, one half block north of Rosecrans. Best year of my life! Now I am in -15 degree weather living in Fort Dodge, Iowa, my how life changes, just have to roll with the punches.
I spent 12 years on Oahu and my comfort zone is about 4 feet overhead. Single fin longboard. I was drooling over those outside swells! Thats where I'd be! Catch it early and dip out before the shortboard lineup 😁 Those closeouts looked BRUTAL!
gret waves hitting LA REMINDES ME OF elMINO MANY YEAR S AGO. surfed A LOT OF BIG DAYS & BIG WAVES BUT THE BEST I know and remember more waves that I can not forget and the best barrel and more I ever had was living close to the spot. Not during el Nino and it is nut that consistent it breaks its best but when it gets hit on a big South swell from the right degrees of course . It breaks so good it is scary which was a good rhing keeping many from paddling out. d0uble overhead the barels very thick crashing hard far out in front that nade them look kind of squarefrom the side wen and the witewash when cheking it from the area of the pier when I woke u and heard the sound knew I had to see if it was e soundit probably was hey hit looked huge and SAW cameras wirh big lenses on tripods on the sand where the water meets it. I had to grab my board that from what I hear is not the best to surf on big waves like this . I did not worry when I was young er surfing Mark Richards was my favorite pro and he road big surf with no issues riding them great . I grabbed my first short board I bought and had rode it often for quite some time, I paddled out and new how it broke and whar it took to surf the point going off! The wave comes in fast tall & steep you paddle hard and when you catch it and feeling it is time to pop up quick and droppping in at a bit of angle to the left the way its breaking no time for a big bottom turn. You need to hope you get some good speed fast and the thick barrel of water is over your head and you are in it now. The inside of it with the sound and atmoshere change nore amplfied than any other barrrel I have had and I had had quite a few. but from all that I have had from San Miguel on a bigbig west swell to a big day at Blacks with great barrels there after a few sprays off the top and it incoming inside and you have some speed surfing right down the line and tuck into a nice barrel there! I spent my summer before senior year of high school living in an abandon house at K38 1/2 it was like paradise grat waves a lot but the barrel rides dud not happen often so often there. BUT GOT ALOY BETTER WUTH MY BACKSIDE SURFING THE RIGHTS INTO ITS COVE!sTILL NO BARREL i HAVE BEEEN IN CAN COMPARE TO ONES THAT CAME OCSDIONALLYAT tHE pOINT IT IS LABELED BUT IS ALSO CALLED FOR WHEN IT BREAKS ON THOSE BIG SWELLS YHROUGH THE DEEP UNDERWATER SHAPE OF SEA FLOOR THE BIG SWELL TRAVELS UP ONTO THE SHALLOWER SURFACE OF THE POINTS SAND THATS NOTSO DEEP FROM THE RIGHT DEGREES WHEN IT HITS IT IT BARRELS SO GOOD IT IS ALSO CALLED cALIFOTNIA pIPE lINE DO NOT ASK WHAT DEGREES THIS IS iT IS CLASSIFIED FOR GOOD REASON AND IT HAS BEEN MANY YEARS SINCE i LIVED CLOSE TO IT i HAD TO GO TO WORK IN MY CAREER INSTALLING AND REPAIRING ESCALATORSS AND ELEVATORS GIVING THE WORLD A LIFT. bUT i STILL THANK gOD FOR THE GREAT WAVES TO SURF i HAVE HAD. i ALSO THANK HIM FOR THE STEEP AND DEEP POWDERi HAVE HAD CHASING IT WITH A FRIEND WITH A HOUSE TO GO TO SOMETIMES IN tahoe WHO i have spent time surfing with here and in zzzbaja and want todo some more He lives down there a lot and I want to go down there to surf and off roadsome in a old Full Size BroncoI bought .I liked them from out campimg and huntin in my dads with him . After having a couple SCABOTAS THAT KEPT RUNNING AND GOING A LOT OF PLACES OFFF ROAD . ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZTHE LAST ONE BEFORE THIS bRONCO DID WELL FROM WHEN AAAAAAAAAAAAI BOUGHT IT WITH A trd BUILT BLOCK AND MAKUNI INTAKE AND CAM AND KICKERS AMD BIG weber cAB DID GOOD IN THE SAAND AND OFF ROAD EXEPT YHE FRONT SHOCK HOOPS WOULDBREAK EASY WITH rANCHOS IN THOSE UNTIL i GOT DESERT STEEL ONES ANDMADE THE BOX FRAME WERE THEY MOUNTED STRONGER SO IT COULD NOT GET SMALLER WHERE THE BOLTS MOUNTED THEM YO IT AND WERE NOT AS TIGHT AS THEY SHOULD BE A LITTLE TO MUCH PLAY WOULD ZAUSE THEM TO BREAK AND RGE RINGS WERE ATARTING TO GO MAKING BLACK SMOKE VOME FROM THE EXAUST AI SOLD IT TO TWO GUYS TAKING IT TO MEXICO KNOWING THE MOG LAWS IN COMMIEFOTNIA WOULD NE HARDER TO FIND SOME PLACE TO PASS IT AND IT WAS STILL JUST A 4 CYLINDER. i ASKED A FRIEND THAT RACED OFF ROAD HAD A TREAM AND MADE PERFORMANCE PARTS THEY TOLDME TO GET TO MAKE A GOOD ONE FOR A LOT LESS i CAN DO A LOT OF IT MYSELF.tHE FULL SIZE bRONCO IS GREAT WIYJ THE ttb INDEPENDENT YOU CAN BUILD IT TO HAVE A GOD AMOUNT OF WHEEL TRAVEL WIT 4 WHEEL DRIVE AND IT WILL DO WELLL. i BOUGHT ONE AND STARTED WORKING ON IT AND WITH ALOT OF TIME FINDING GOOD PRICES ON GOOD PARTS AND INFORMATION ON THINGS AND HOW TO DO WORK LIKE CHANGE THE FRONT END BODY STYLE FINDING A PART OUT FROM A 96 FENDERA CORE SUPPORT AND A HOOD FIBER GLASS SO MY TIRES COLD TRAVEL UP INSIDE OF THEMAND THE SPINDLES THE BRAKE CALAPERS ATACHED TO WITH BOLTS INSTESD OF THE RUBBER INSIDE THIN METAL PINS bEDSIDES i ALSO HAD TO GRET OFF ROAD LIGHTS AND UPGRADE TO hid gEARS AND LOCKERS BUILT TRANSMISSION AND REBUIKLD THE TRANSFER CASE MYSEF GUSSER AND PLATR AND BUILD UP THE LONG RADIUS ATMS TO BEAAMS MOUTED WITH BIG STAINLSS STEEL HEIM JOINTS.THEN i CHANGED MY MIND FROM RUNNING DUAL Rcerunners to a single per wheel bigger King. Happy I dis and at the Mint 400 On my mission to thank Brettt I found out after that looking at pictures my know wife took a close shot of BJ BSLDWIN she did not know who it was and said he was staring at me walk past not seeeing him I tod her he might gave came with me. Brett was happy ro hear my thanks for the ones I ordered from him after went to a scale to weigh my Bronco seperat front and back wiyj wgat I planned to carry in it. He then introduced me to his dad Lance King the King of Kingd he was also happy to hear how much I liked them and knowing he owned the shock company the best rscers used before King Kuster shocks then he was wuth SWAY away and then started the King Shocks used today! I have an upgrade now in it I have not jhad a chance to give an off road test and cant wait to see how it does! I know it will be way better from what it had pushing the petsl to the floor !
First measurement is off ~ WAY off even for wave face measurement. 30 foot faces would be much much more water moving around and my measure (I've been a Hawaiian surfer 30 years + Calif. 20 + years before that) The biggest this first set is ~ is 10 to 12 feet. After watching it all I'd say this day was 6 to 10 feet with an occasional 12 foot set ~ You are corrected.
And you stand much wrong those waves as someone who traveled from Hawaii to be there were most definitely at least 20-25 at the biggest most well exposed spots You are corrected
Look Brad the waves are big yes .But real seasoned surfers Never judge the waves by the faces we are humble and don't exaggerate!! If the face of a wave is as you say 33feet that means it's 12 to 16 foot . But a Claimer would say it's 33 feet out there , for click bait , bragging, or a inflated Ego? Those waves at the end are not as you Claim. But keep up your stoke start measuring the waves by the backs like Hawaiians 🤙 or in relation to the human body ( head high , overhead , ECT thanks
Ye the face is 33ft but I think when most people say how big the waves are they refer to the back of it so the back was prob like 20ft(very rough estimate)
Yout can calculate the wave height. Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube. So i'am not sure with this arrow method.
@@michaelstrode8924 No 23 ft max see the calculation. Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube. So i'am not sure with this arrow method.
Cool clip for sure. 30ft faces I'd guess, but doesn't really help that it appears to be only mainland USA that still regards wave face in feet as a reasonable assessment of wave size. To us, that's solid sure, but Tanner's wave at the 7min mark isn't even 6ft - it's double overhead at best. Rad nonetheless, and no doubt big for El Porto (which I've surfed stacks).
I surfed at Venice beach (a little south or north of there depending on the day) as well as way up in Ventura. Those waves are terrifying haha holy smokes man. I have never seen this happen before at this beach.
Geez. A 5 to 6 ft day, with 8 -10 ft sneakers sets gets called 33ft in California. Cali really must have tiny surf if you all think this was 'massive.' Kinda looks like a half decent day to me. I get it, you're attempting to measure the wave height and I'm talking actual swell size like actual surfers do, but still, it really doesn't seem massive. Have a look at Mavericks, that actually holds solid 20ft swell. This is barely 8 ft on the biggest sets, maybe some 10footers if you squint and pucker your butthole really tight. Pity the paddle out was a bit of a grind though.
Whatsever size... This sizes are irrelevant. Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube.
Way over estimated. You not only overestimated the guy's probable height but you measured the bottom trough of the wave. So take away at least one of your arrows. And not to mention that most wave measurement in surfing measures the back of the wave, not the front. So you cut the size in half when measuring the back of the wave. So if we take away one of your arrow measurements at least and even if your guy is six feet, You might be able to get away with saying these waves approached double overhead which would make the waves maybe 12 feet max. still quite big but definitely not 30ft+
Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube. So i'am not sure with this arrow method.
For real, check 0:24 and you can clearly see from the people in the wave its not anywhere close to 33 feet lmao not even 20. I would think an experienced surf photographer would be able to tell how big waves are...
The face is always bigger than the actual wave. Waves are measured crest to trough. The face sucked up water before making it seem larger than it is. That's probably a 28 foot wace... Still impressive.
First time I ever rode real big swell I nearly got drowned trying to duck dive them and got sucked over the falls on 3 set waves, on the third trip over the falls a voice in my head said this is the end, but I came up and it was flat, I could barely crawl back into my board and balance enough to paddle but somehow I got to the beach before the next set. When I hit the land I couldn't walk I was totally gassed out. That was a close one.
I think your arrows at the beginning of the vid are exaggerated, the bottom of the wave is only about 4 arrows as it is further back from that white wash
Only problem is that is not how waves are measured. They are measured from how high they are above sea level. Your wave is only a 15 footer. So when your are watching Deadliest Catch and they say they are in 20ft seas, that means there are walls of water 40ft high.
Waves are meassured in y-direction amplitude or wave hieght in x direction as secundes or periode. So a 30 ft wave hieght is a 15 ft amplitude because the wave hieght is twice amplitude.
@@freeradical6390 Yes I meant secondes :). And yes thoose waves are not 30+ ft tall. The crest of the biggest wave needs for falling down on the surface of water 1,1-1,2 secondes. You can check it with the pictures per secondes function on youtube. The height is defined with the free fall formula h = 0,5 * g * t^2 (It's the horizontal throw). g is the acceleration of gravity while falling down, t is the falling time. You get h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,15s)^2 = 6,5m (20,5ft). So the Amplitude is about 10 ft.
@@Oliver1997Physics I learned about it the hard way......on a crab boat in Alaska! lol. Retired framer, we used Pythagoreans Theorem alot and a little pieR2. There is no such thing as vacuum........there is only pressure differential. one of my favs
The waves look like 6-8 ft, some bigger sets 10 ft Hawaiian, surprised there weren’t more surfers or bodyboarders out! Look super fun, I would of sat outside and waited for the bombs.. it does help when there more people in the water, you can literally tell where the waves are going to break, it makes it so much easier to catch these waves..
Waves have no style. Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude. I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube.
Grew up surfing 1st street.. but 30'.. you do know if it were that big, the outer Cable Cars would be breaking at El Porto.. go look at my home break now in Blacks beach which is a solid 5-10' bigger.. and we would never even dare say it was 40 foot.. that is a solid 7-10 foot at El porto.. Look up Joey Buran Surfing Cable cars a mile and half off shore in 1988... at El Porto..
Sad to see that nobody knows crap about the south bay any more as every dildo that made a dollar west of the Mississippi moved to Manhattan Beach or Pacific Palisades in the last 20 years. as they are the only safe Cities left in LA with Police Forces that protect them. For those dildo's who do not know, the tracks that run down the middle of Manhattan Beach once harbored actual cable cars.. That were dumped a mile and a half off of the now Jetty known as El Porto that was Annexed by Manhattan Beach. There is a huge reef out there, that breaks only in the biggest swells. People like Ted Robinson and Joey Buran even Dewey Weber tackled the outer reef at Cable Cars! Guys like Bruce Finilla Took on 30 Foot Palos Verdes Cove during that same swell in 1988.. he now dominates places like Garbage Trucks and Funnels in Kauai... Big Balls.. only a few have um..
Those biggest waves were definitely massive and virtually unrideable, so I have respect for those who tried and went through so much to get a wave. As for the size, I know this is a tough thing to judge when they are so large. But I don't think I saw a wave I would guess to be 30' plus. Maybe 20-25'. The distance from the crest to the trough is a bit tricky to judge, but in your initial analysis using the pointer, I think maybe you considered the bottom of the wave too low--below the true bottom of the trough. Oh well, I'm no expert either.
Aye. I think Brad got a little fudgy on the 30+ estimate. But I appreciate the try. Either way fun vid as always. Poor guy at @0:27 was probably sorry he was ever born ;-)
@@bradsillasen1972 I think he was reborn by that experience :)
30 ft is starting to be Mavericks size. Those weren't 30 ft but probably close to 20 ft in the video. Jan 14 was a massive day though and with lots of rain out.
@@Sp4wnK3lla January 6th though was massive definitely 20 feet
huge stomping waves but those aren't 30 foot waves, 12 to 15 foot backs, 25 foot faces.
I spent the first 30 yrs of my life living just north of El Porto in Westchester/ Playa Del Rey. One of the places that helped me learn to surf was El Porto and the double break when it got big storm swells. The inside waves were safe.
Great footage. I've actually seen it big like this many times, I'm 57 yrs old. I've seen it like this, 15 feet, but with better shape, not closing out. One of my best and oldest friends, since 1st grade, lived above the parking lot at Porto from about 19 yrs old until late 30s.
The problem with the Santa Monica Bay Beaches is the direct West facing coastline, especially mid and southbay. Storms will build sandbars and then storms wash them away. Waves will get big but the shape is usually not great. But, I've seen with my own eyes and good friends from the neighborhood have photos of epic surf at El Porto that you would think you were looking at waves from Hawai'i or Tavarua or Jeffrie's.
Great video. Measuring waves is always an arguable subject. These were not 30ft or at least the ones in the video weren't. 15-18 ft maybe 20ft and even that is arguable to some people.
Im kind of glad you did this. It gives me perspective. Now that ive seen this, I can honestly answer people when they ask me the biggest waves ive ridden
Calif has been blessed by the surf gods these last few weeks. I've been surfing since 1959. Never seen anything like it.
SEAL OF APPROVAL
1983 where were you?
@@martinginsburg7222 *No shit, was he comatose in the 80s?*
(BTW; what a wrong place to be during a big west, LOL!).
Been loving these videos! Would you be able to include the surf report in these videos? Like wave height from the buoy, swell interval, height of the tide rising/dropping? I think a few of us out here would appreciate those small details! Thanks!
I wish all surf vids did that , would be super useful
Great birdseye view. I have some footage from porto from ‘98. It was probably half that size. I hadnt surfed for 5 years. I borrowed a board from a friend who wanted nothing to do with 15ft porto. I took the beating of my life trying to get out. Closest ive ever been to drowning. I finally made it, caught my breath, contemplated my life, took one wave and rode it all the way to the beach. Inside was firing... perfect 8’ barrels. My brother and his friend were body boarding it. They probably had way more fun than I did. Thanks again for the rad footage.
Yo Johnny, I’ll Seeyou in the next life… awesome waves. Great footage
I had never believed our local Los Angeles beaches had the ability to bring these kind of waves. I think I must return to the ocean once again. Thank you for bringing back my stoke!
Something that shouldn't go unnoticed. The speed at which the huge outside waves are being cleared by surfers while paddling out tells you how difficult it is to get the perfect timing to catch one.
Flipping love it, haven't seen conditions like that for years. Thanks for your efforts
always love the stories, thanks for telling them!
I appreciate how you highlight the difficulty of paddling out through big waves. I was on a 8 foot Costco foamy for a while and trying to paddle out through sizeable sets at Blacks Beach was just impossible. I mean I didn't have the greatest physical strength but it was so demoralizing to not even be able to make it past the breakers sometimes
Been there...
haha gotta love the costco wavestorm special! it's unironically a great starter board, but definitely don't feel bad about not being able to make it out on the bigger days on one of those, it can be tricky to get that much foam under/past breaking waves. we've all been there at some point. Good luck out there!
When in doubt go full-on OMNIOUS .. Great stuff .. Love the format.
You make great videos. Thank you
Kudos to the ones trying. I am exhausted just watching them! Amazing effort!
'or how to get in' Indeed. Once I was out on a big day at Manresa with a friend and in about 15 minutes it went from big rideable to larger 100 yard long booming closeouts every wave. A young surfer paddled up and asked us what to do. You gotta catch one, go straight and don't fall I said. My friend and I took off together and looked at each other with big smiles after making the drop.
The narration and explanation of the different types of waves, the problems they presented, the problems the surfers had, and so on.....that was just excellent.
Really informative and makes what goes on in the video so much more interesting and understandable. The remarks about the direction of the wind and how this made the surf look...this was so good.
This man should write. He certainly should write commentaries to most videos about surfing.
I'm sure that surfers understand all these things. But there are those who find it really interesting to look at these videos, but can't understand the significance of what is shown.
I'm in that category. I find such videos so interesting. Yet don't really understand what I'm seeing.
There is zero chance that I'll ever even stand on a shore. I have a genetic neurological problem. My life takes place on a cheap mattress, with my head & knees propped up, & my right hand resting on my stomach with a pc mouse in it. I can move my right hand, so I can select things to watch on TH-cam.
I wish this fellow did the narration of most videos that are about looking at waves and surfing. He really brings out what is happening and makes it come alive for people like me.
Totally agree! I am no surfer, heck I’m too terrified to go near a 2 foot wave let alone anything past my toes in the tiny, sweet mannered, lapping surf but I absolutely love watching people surf big and small sets.. from the comfort of my home 😊
Damn that's incredible. Even the inside wave is real enough but doable and then you see the wall of the next outside coming in behind...those outside monsters are way to big and unruly can't tell which one is gonna break and which one is gonna just smash wow and props to the guys that went for it. What a hefty paddle out huh?
I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down was 1,1-1,2 secondes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. A wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secondes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube. But waves are not measured from the back or front. They are measured peak to peak or amplitude in y direction and periode or velocity in x direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.
Crafty! Respect and fascinating
The biggest waves I've ever been out in was 25 ft Ocean Beach SF. These waves are twice as small as that.
Ocean Beach is way huge. Way cold. Way more power. This looks 6-8ft with occasional 10-12ft sets to me.
I think it was the same day; Zuma was as giant as could be. Pouring rain, heavy offshores, perfect rights holding up, no one out. Thrilling to see that much power and beauty in LA.
Props to the few dudes that attempted the waves the size of buildings!
Waves were pretty dark and "omnious" looking! 🤣🤣🤣 Well at least the closed caption got it right. 😊😊 Nice video though!
Crazy 8:29 switchfoot on big waves . Ya Tanner 🤙🏼
Amazing session. I've been washed to shore at Mushrooms, down by K38 on a big, consistent day, but it wasn't near this big. There were those big rocks so as I got washed toward them I had to paddle to a big one and climb on.
Massive day. I would of never made it out, not even in my prime 😂
A few problems with this math. 1. Always assume a surfer is about 5ft tall because it's rare that while riding a wave or paddling that one would be standing straight up or fully stretched out. so with crunch space, 5ft is the metric. 2. From the vantage point the trough is actually higher up. The period makes it seem bigger since there is longer distance between sets, the best vantage point for exact measurement is as close to the water line as possible. I'd say that wave was between 15-18ft. But thats just my best guess. It's not an exact science. I'm from Florida so we exaggerate everything over here, 3ft is head high, 6 is 8, 10 is 20. But everywhere exaggerates Hawaii kind of undersells it until it's really big and then everything is 50ft. And I'd say the size of the face isn't really the best measure of how big a wave is either, the intensity of certain breaks just hits different at different swell heights.
if porto was 30ft then ocean beach was 100ft. Your arrows go way down into the flats. Massive waves for SoCal and very heavy but call it what it is: 6-12ft
These were easily 12 to 20 plus. You're trippin for 6ft lmao
@@J_h_420 12ft beach break is no joke double black diamond but 20ft is like small Mavericks big wave surfing and that is not what went down in Manhattan Beach.
6 foot? 🤣. Imagine standing next to that wave and claiming it’s 6 feet.
I think you meant to say "dark and ominous," not "dark and omnibus." Omnibus is a group of novels in a book. Also, that may be big for LA, but it's really not that big at all... not 33 feet at all. Maybe 14-16 feet on the sets. Most waves that were caught were maybe 6-8 feet.
Wow those were some nice waves. my guess would be 10-13' measuring from the back of the wave.
Really enjoy your videos, Brad. You had to have heard this before, but your narrating style reminds me of Warren Miller in his ski films. Is it just my imagination, or was he an influence on you, whether consciously or unconsciously?
Amazing shooting deck and amazing fitness level and surfers to paddle out and ride some of these.
Brad, great video! WoW WaVeS! Peace cuz
Just got out the water at OB in NorCal today and man if the dude at 0:32 isn't my spirit animal 🤣🤣🤣
Wasn’t fun today
@@Joneshing it was probably great before the tide dropped and it started dumping.
Surfing in Washington is almost always like the mood in this video. Colder water. 5.5/4.5 hooded fullsuit
Almost never, ever worth it? I agree.
@@kodman247Correct!! No one should ever get the idea that its possible to surf in Washington.
@@TheFatblob25 I dont think I have seen a normal left or right barrel surfable for more than a few seconds? Maybe windsurf up or down the coast, depending on wind and swell directions? Flying past all those sea stacks, that would be crazy.
@@TheFatblob25too late. About 250 surfers at Westport on Saturday. Used to be like 5-10 people just a few years ago.
Dang! I’ve lived in SoCal my whole life and I’ve never seen waves that big here. I think the biggest I’ve seen was around twelve foot at Zuma beach this past summer and I thought those were scary. Wow! So cool that you caught these on camera.
You need to look harder lol massive waves just hit at blacks beach
I lived right there almost next door on the strand in 1976 where I met my wife Kim Wolterman RIP, one half block north of Rosecrans. Best year of my life! Now I am in -15 degree weather living in Fort Dodge, Iowa, my how life changes, just have to roll with the punches.
I spent 12 years on Oahu and my comfort zone is about 4 feet overhead. Single fin longboard. I was drooling over those outside swells! Thats where I'd be! Catch it early and dip out before the shortboard lineup 😁
Those closeouts looked BRUTAL!
Great storytelling, Brad
Hope you find the dude with no- name. Nice video Brad ; it has a nice flow to it.
Cool 😎 video 📹 Thanks!
Tanner you rock. Thanks .
Awesome video, thanks!!
I have surfed a lot of big days at El Porto, but I’ve never seen it macking like that. Holy cow.
So beautiful to watch 😊
Being caught inside on a big day , one wave after another, is brutal both physically and mentally.
gret waves hitting LA REMINDES ME OF elMINO MANY YEAR S AGO. surfed A LOT OF BIG DAYS & BIG WAVES BUT THE BEST I know and remember more waves that I can not forget and the best barrel and more I ever had was living close to the spot. Not during el Nino and it is nut that consistent it breaks its best but when it gets hit on a big South swell from the right degrees of course . It breaks so good it is scary which was a good rhing keeping many from paddling out. d0uble overhead the barels very thick crashing hard far out in front that nade them look kind of squarefrom the side wen and the witewash when cheking it from the area of the pier when I woke u and heard the sound knew I had to see if it was e soundit probably was hey hit looked huge and SAW cameras wirh big lenses on tripods on the sand where the water meets it. I had to grab my board that from what I hear is not the best to surf on big waves like this . I did not worry when I was young er surfing Mark Richards was my favorite pro and he road big surf with no issues riding them great . I grabbed my first short board I bought and had rode it often for quite some time, I paddled out and new how it broke and whar it took to surf the point going off! The wave comes in fast tall & steep you paddle hard and when you catch it and feeling it is time to pop up quick and droppping in at a bit of angle to the left the way its breaking no time for a big bottom turn. You need to hope you get some good speed fast and the thick barrel of water is over your head and you are in it now. The inside of it with the sound and atmoshere change nore amplfied than any other barrrel I have had and I had had quite a few. but from all that I have had from San Miguel on a bigbig west swell to a big day at Blacks with great barrels there after a few sprays off the top and it incoming inside and you have some speed surfing right down the line and tuck into a nice barrel there! I spent my summer before senior year of high school living in an abandon house at K38 1/2 it was like paradise grat waves a lot but the barrel rides dud not happen often so often there. BUT GOT ALOY BETTER WUTH MY BACKSIDE SURFING THE RIGHTS INTO ITS COVE!sTILL NO BARREL i HAVE BEEEN IN CAN COMPARE TO ONES THAT CAME OCSDIONALLYAT tHE pOINT IT IS LABELED BUT IS ALSO CALLED FOR WHEN IT BREAKS ON THOSE BIG SWELLS YHROUGH THE DEEP UNDERWATER SHAPE OF SEA FLOOR THE BIG SWELL TRAVELS UP ONTO THE SHALLOWER SURFACE OF THE POINTS SAND THATS NOTSO DEEP FROM THE RIGHT DEGREES WHEN IT HITS IT IT BARRELS SO GOOD IT IS ALSO CALLED cALIFOTNIA pIPE lINE DO NOT ASK WHAT DEGREES THIS IS iT IS CLASSIFIED FOR GOOD REASON AND IT HAS BEEN MANY YEARS SINCE i LIVED CLOSE TO IT i HAD TO GO TO WORK IN MY CAREER INSTALLING AND REPAIRING ESCALATORSS AND ELEVATORS GIVING THE WORLD A LIFT. bUT i STILL THANK gOD FOR THE GREAT WAVES TO SURF i HAVE HAD. i ALSO THANK HIM FOR THE STEEP AND DEEP POWDERi HAVE HAD CHASING IT WITH A FRIEND WITH A HOUSE TO GO TO SOMETIMES IN tahoe WHO i have spent time surfing with here and in zzzbaja and want todo some more He lives down there a lot and I want to go down there to surf and off roadsome in a old Full Size BroncoI bought .I liked them from out campimg and huntin in my dads with him . After having a couple SCABOTAS THAT KEPT RUNNING AND GOING A LOT OF PLACES OFFF ROAD . ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZTHE LAST ONE BEFORE THIS bRONCO DID WELL FROM WHEN AAAAAAAAAAAAI BOUGHT IT WITH A trd BUILT BLOCK AND MAKUNI INTAKE AND CAM AND KICKERS AMD BIG weber cAB DID GOOD IN THE SAAND AND OFF ROAD EXEPT YHE FRONT SHOCK HOOPS WOULDBREAK EASY WITH rANCHOS IN THOSE UNTIL i GOT DESERT STEEL ONES ANDMADE THE BOX FRAME WERE THEY MOUNTED STRONGER SO IT COULD NOT GET SMALLER WHERE THE BOLTS MOUNTED THEM YO IT AND WERE NOT AS TIGHT AS THEY SHOULD BE A LITTLE TO MUCH PLAY WOULD ZAUSE THEM TO BREAK AND RGE RINGS WERE ATARTING TO GO MAKING BLACK SMOKE VOME FROM THE EXAUST AI SOLD IT TO TWO GUYS TAKING IT TO MEXICO KNOWING THE MOG LAWS IN COMMIEFOTNIA WOULD NE HARDER TO FIND SOME PLACE TO PASS IT AND IT WAS STILL JUST A 4 CYLINDER. i ASKED A FRIEND THAT RACED OFF ROAD HAD A TREAM AND MADE PERFORMANCE PARTS THEY TOLDME TO GET TO MAKE A GOOD ONE FOR A LOT LESS i CAN DO A LOT OF IT MYSELF.tHE FULL SIZE bRONCO IS GREAT WIYJ THE ttb INDEPENDENT YOU CAN BUILD IT TO HAVE A GOD AMOUNT OF WHEEL TRAVEL WIT 4 WHEEL DRIVE AND IT WILL DO WELLL. i BOUGHT ONE AND STARTED WORKING ON IT AND WITH ALOT OF TIME FINDING GOOD PRICES ON GOOD PARTS AND INFORMATION ON THINGS AND HOW TO DO WORK LIKE CHANGE THE FRONT END BODY STYLE FINDING A PART OUT FROM A 96 FENDERA CORE SUPPORT AND A HOOD FIBER GLASS SO MY TIRES COLD TRAVEL UP INSIDE OF THEMAND THE SPINDLES THE BRAKE CALAPERS ATACHED TO WITH BOLTS INSTESD OF THE RUBBER INSIDE THIN METAL PINS bEDSIDES i ALSO HAD TO GRET OFF ROAD LIGHTS AND UPGRADE TO hid gEARS AND LOCKERS BUILT TRANSMISSION AND REBUIKLD THE TRANSFER CASE MYSEF GUSSER AND PLATR AND BUILD UP THE LONG RADIUS ATMS TO BEAAMS MOUTED WITH BIG STAINLSS STEEL HEIM JOINTS.THEN i CHANGED MY MIND FROM RUNNING DUAL Rcerunners to a single per wheel bigger King. Happy I dis and at the Mint 400 On my mission to thank Brettt I found out after that looking at pictures my know wife took a close shot of BJ BSLDWIN she did not know who it was and said he was staring at me walk past not seeeing him I tod her he might gave came with me. Brett was happy ro hear my thanks for the ones I ordered from him after went to a scale to weigh my Bronco seperat front and back wiyj wgat I planned to carry in it. He then introduced me to his dad Lance King the King of Kingd he was also happy to hear how much I liked them and knowing he owned the shock company the best rscers used before King Kuster shocks then he was wuth SWAY away and then started the King Shocks used today! I have an upgrade now in it I have not jhad a chance to give an off road test and cant wait to see how it does! I know it will be way better from what it had pushing the petsl to the floor !
Great video!
Take care of those lenses Brad we need MORE video!
brad, love your videos. Grade-A videographer and even better narrator?
That swell was amazing. Swami’s was epic 8-10 ft!
Thanks Brad!
is it omnious or ominous? Thanks Brad great filming and dialogue
it's the omnibus bill, legislature passed by congress.
I thought it was onmybus
@@brendonmasters LOL.
First measurement is off ~ WAY off even for wave face measurement. 30 foot faces would be much much more water moving around and my measure (I've been a Hawaiian surfer 30 years + Calif. 20 + years before that) The biggest this first set is ~ is 10 to 12 feet. After watching it all I'd say this day was 6 to 10 feet with an occasional 12 foot set ~ You are corrected.
And you stand much wrong those waves as someone who traveled from Hawaii to be there were most definitely at least 20-25 at the biggest most well exposed spots
You are corrected
@@The98racer I’m pretty sure he’s talking about the back of the wave but I agree 20 to 25 foot faces
Look Brad the waves are big yes .But real seasoned surfers Never judge the waves by the faces we are humble and don't exaggerate!! If the face of a wave is as you say 33feet that means it's 12 to 16 foot . But a Claimer would say it's 33 feet out there , for click bait , bragging, or a inflated Ego? Those waves at the end are not as you Claim. But keep up your stoke start measuring the waves by the backs like Hawaiians 🤙 or in relation to the human body ( head high , overhead , ECT thanks
Omnious isnt a word.
What happened to the one that got caught on the inside at 6:40? Great video btw and props to those out there that day.
33? That figures.
Have to give credit to those guys for even attempting to paddle out in those conditions.
When the waves are so big, do you surfers ever try to sit them out?
Ye the face is 33ft but I think when most people say how big the waves are they refer to the back of it so the back was prob like 20ft(very rough estimate)
Maybe 8-10ft maximum. 30ft is Mavericks. This looks microscopic by comparison.
Yout can calculate the wave height. Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube. So i'am not sure with this arrow method.
@@michaelstrode8924 No 23 ft max see the calculation. Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube. So i'am not sure with this arrow method.
Awesome vid!!!
I'll say it again: this winter RULES. And it's not even El Nino, far from it- quite a strong La Nina still! New normal LFG
watching from australia interesting footage and shout out to the hardy paddlers getting taxed and to the guy who got shacked
Cool clip for sure. 30ft faces I'd guess, but doesn't really help that it appears to be only mainland USA that still regards wave face in feet as a reasonable assessment of wave size. To us, that's solid sure, but Tanner's wave at the 7min mark isn't even 6ft - it's double overhead at best. Rad nonetheless, and no doubt big for El Porto (which I've surfed stacks).
Dude how were the waves today!? Duude they were omnious! ;)
I surfed at Venice beach (a little south or north of there depending on the day) as well as way up in Ventura. Those waves are terrifying haha holy smokes man. I have never seen this happen before at this beach.
If that guy with his legs bent and his chest and head up in the air is 6ft long then he must actually be 7ft tall when standing straight.
"omnious"?
Geez. A 5 to 6 ft day, with 8 -10 ft sneakers sets gets called 33ft in California.
Cali really must have tiny surf if you all think this was 'massive.' Kinda looks like a half decent day to me. I get it, you're attempting to measure the wave height and I'm talking actual swell size like actual surfers do, but still, it really doesn't seem massive. Have a look at Mavericks, that actually holds solid 20ft swell. This is barely 8 ft on the biggest sets, maybe some 10footers if you squint and pucker your butthole really tight.
Pity the paddle out was a bit of a grind though.
clickbait
Whatsever size... This sizes are irrelevant. Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube.
Way over estimated. You not only overestimated the guy's probable height but you measured the bottom trough of the wave. So take away at least one of your arrows. And not to mention that most wave measurement in surfing measures the back of the wave, not the front. So you cut the size in half when measuring the back of the wave. So if we take away one of your arrow measurements at least and even if your guy is six feet, You might be able to get away with saying these waves approached double overhead which would make the waves maybe 12 feet max. still quite big but definitely not 30ft+
Seeing from your videos, El Porto has been looking really good recently. Is it because the early January giant swells corrected the sandbars?
respect to Tanner and the boys
The Hebrides 🏴 on a typical autumnal swell.
Thanks!
The boards are like 6 ft. Thats how I measure-looks huge they make the surfers look so small🦋
Survival. That's the game plan.
In Australia this would be about 10ft, maybe a little bigger. We use Hawaiian scale, wave size is judges from the rear not the face..
Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude.I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube. So i'am not sure with this arrow method.
Dope video! But my guy that is not a 33ft wave😂
8' If you ask Jamie O'Brien
With a tape measurer, it probably is around 30 ft
For real, check 0:24 and you can clearly see from the people in the wave its not anywhere close to 33 feet lmao not even 20. I would think an experienced surf photographer would be able to tell how big waves are...
@@leftpointsurf450 not every wave is going to be 20-30 feet
@@adrianhij6144 0:24 is literally the same wave he claimed was 33 feet...
Also, it's OM-I-NOUS, not OM-NI-OUS
Thank you, Captain Obvibous. Wait, or is it ... ???
What day!
Seems like the face of the wave would set up for just a bit, then crush out. They weren't peeling. Hat's off who went out.
Definite size. How big Mavericks?
The face is always bigger than the actual wave. Waves are measured crest to trough. The face sucked up water before making it seem larger than it is. That's probably a 28 foot wace... Still impressive.
First time I ever rode real big swell I nearly got drowned trying to duck dive them and got sucked over the falls on 3 set waves, on the third trip over the falls a voice in my head said this is the end, but I came up and it was flat, I could barely crawl back into my board and balance enough to paddle but somehow I got to the beach before the next set. When I hit the land I couldn't walk I was totally gassed out. That was a close one.
absolutely brutal
Optical illusion, the waves are normal sized but the surfers are super tiny.
@ 2:49, try "ominous" rather than "omnious"
What antibiotic do you recommend?
I think your arrows at the beginning of the vid are exaggerated, the bottom of the wave is only about 4 arrows as it is further back from that white wash
Only problem is that is not how waves are measured. They are measured from how high they are above sea level. Your wave is only a 15 footer. So when your are watching Deadliest Catch and they say they are in 20ft seas, that means there are walls of water 40ft high.
Waves are meassured in y-direction amplitude or wave hieght in x direction as secundes or periode. So a 30 ft wave hieght is a 15 ft amplitude because the wave hieght is twice amplitude.
@@Oliver1997Physics I couldnt have said it better myself! lol :) (seconds?)
@@freeradical6390 Yes I meant secondes :).
And yes thoose waves are not 30+ ft tall. The crest of the biggest wave needs for falling down on the surface of water 1,1-1,2 secondes. You can check it with the pictures per secondes function on youtube. The height is defined with the free fall formula h = 0,5 * g * t^2 (It's the horizontal throw). g is the acceleration of gravity while falling down, t is the falling time. You get h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,15s)^2 = 6,5m (20,5ft). So the Amplitude is about 10 ft.
@@Oliver1997Physics I learned about it the hard way......on a crab boat in Alaska! lol. Retired framer, we used Pythagoreans Theorem alot and a little pieR2. There is no such thing as vacuum........there is only pressure differential. one of my favs
Tanner!!!
The waves look like 6-8 ft, some bigger sets 10 ft Hawaiian, surprised there weren’t more surfers or bodyboarders out! Look super fun, I would of sat outside and waited for the bombs.. it does help when there more people in the water, you can literally tell where the waves are going to break, it makes it so much easier to catch these waves..
Waves have no style. Waves are not meassured from the back or front. They are meassured peak to peak or amplitude in y-direction and periode or velocity in x-direction. Peak to peak is the wave height. A 20 ft tall wave is 10 ft amplitude because the wave hight is twice of the amplitude. I'am not sure with the arrow method. The longest time that a crest of a wave is falling down in this Video was 1,1-1,2 secundes. The height is defined with the free fall formula as h = 0,5 * g * t^2. g is the acceleration of the gravitiy while falling down t the falling time. so h = 0,5 * 9,81 m/s^2 * (1,2s)^2 = 7 m (23 ft) max.. But a wave over 30 ft need for breaking over 1,4 secundes. You can check it with the picture per secondes function on youtube.
Grew up surfing 1st street.. but 30'.. you do know if it were that big, the outer Cable Cars would be breaking at El Porto.. go look at my home break now in Blacks beach which is a solid 5-10' bigger.. and we would never even dare say it was 40 foot.. that is a solid 7-10 foot at El porto.. Look up Joey Buran Surfing Cable cars a mile and half off shore in 1988... at El Porto..
Sad to see that nobody knows crap about the south bay any more as every dildo that made a dollar west of the Mississippi moved to Manhattan Beach or Pacific Palisades in the last 20 years. as they are the only safe Cities left in LA with Police Forces that protect them. For those dildo's who do not know, the tracks that run down the middle of Manhattan Beach once harbored actual cable cars.. That were dumped a mile and a half off of the now Jetty known as El Porto that was Annexed by Manhattan Beach. There is a huge reef out there, that breaks only in the biggest swells. People like Ted Robinson and Joey Buran even Dewey Weber tackled the outer reef at Cable Cars! Guys like Bruce Finilla Took on 30 Foot Palos Verdes Cove during that same swell in 1988.. he now dominates places like Garbage Trucks and Funnels in Kauai... Big Balls.. only a few have um..
The real bravery of the paddle-out was swimming through raw sewage and fighting infections. Maybe they didn’t see the water quality warnings 😂
Looks fun 8'-15'
You took like one wave, why make the charge?
Were those today ?
honestly i have had days like that i just forget the board and swim instead of trying to duck the board
"Ohm-knee-us"