@@tristan_white I made the changes and the results are a few inches difference at peak lift. Having the manometer tube in the cylinder wall saves a ton of time by not having to pull it out of each spark plug hole when testing the other ports.
About 3/4 way down the page. Look for part number (PFEZ6Ox.xx). Prices: www.performancetrends.com/prices.htm Flow Bench Build Info: www.performancetrends.com/ez_flow_system.htm#EZ%20Flow%20Plans
My orifice flows 350cfm @9inches of water. I am using the same testo smart DP sensor as you are. If I want to flow more than 350 cfm heads (400-450cfm ) , would I need a bigger Orifice plate or should I be fine?
@stuntr1 just got home from work, but I will try to go do a quick video. If you bought an orifice and they said it flows 350cfm @ 9"H2O always verify. Mine was the same, but flows 375.56cfm @ 9.01"H2O. Cutting will vary on any sharp edge orifice.
I would prefer to talk on here in case someone else has the same issue. Let's clarify the problem real quick. Think of dP as an absolute value number and not in the since of + or -. The + or - just tells you the direction of flow, so if you swap your leads the number will be the same but in the + direction. If this does not solve your problem please describe your complete setup and where the sensing lines are placed in relation to the system.
@Fernando Hood are you using an orifice or pitot tube? Is the .02 in inH2O? If using an orifice you want the pressure taps as close as humanly possible on opposite sides of the orifice. If too far away your sensing lines will see flow and you will have the venturi effect and inaccurate data. If using an orifice what is it calibrated to flow and at what depression?
Im not an electrician but I dont think you are allowed to attach your grounds and neutrals wires to the same bar except in the first electric box of your system.
They are each independent circuits. If there is a fault current in one switch it has no impact on the others. This protects the switch housing from becoming energized and hurt someone like my kids when they flip the switches. I made it the way I did for safety, and if I burn up a single motor then that's all that is affected and will trip its individual breaker.
@@tristan_white your ground wires have to be attached to a separate bar which is attached to the box. The neutral bar cannot to electrically attached to the box unless its the first box in your system
The way you have it connected, if your neutral wire were to burn off or become disconnected, the ground wires would be carrying current. Major code violation
@TheJohndeere466 I think we are miss communicating. This is infact how you wire the effective ground fault current path. If the ground/ neutral wire shorted out it would send the fault current back to the breaker and trip it. It is the process of electrically bonding and grounding. I also have it backed up by an additional main feed breaker that provides the boxes main ground. If an individual breaker fails to trip it will send the fault current out to the main feed breaker.
Thanks for the details in the video. I'll make some changes to my bench and compare the results to my previous numbers.
Let me know how it goes.
Will do.
@@tristan_white I made the changes and the results are a few inches difference at peak lift. Having the manometer tube in the cylinder wall saves a ton of time by not having to pull it out of each spark plug hole when testing the other ports.
@VGHCX good deal! Yeah, your results will be very inaccurate going through the spark plug hole due to the air velocity in that part of the port.
At TDC the exhaust is super strong pulling intake charge until piston is about 20% down
Can you post a link where you bought the orifice from performance trends. Thank you!
About 3/4 way down the page. Look for part number (PFEZ6Ox.xx).
Prices:
www.performancetrends.com/prices.htm
Flow Bench Build Info:
www.performancetrends.com/ez_flow_system.htm#EZ%20Flow%20Plans
My orifice flows 350cfm @9inches of water. I am using the same testo smart DP sensor as you are. If I want to flow more than 350 cfm heads (400-450cfm ) , would I need a bigger Orifice plate or should I be fine?
You should be fine assuming you have enough motors. I recommend that you qualify your bench at 500 cfm first.
For example, my bench flows 500 cfm @ 16.25"H2O.
@@tristan_white how do you qualify the flow bench ?
@stuntr1 just got home from work, but I will try to go do a quick video. If you bought an orifice and they said it flows 350cfm @ 9"H2O always verify. Mine was the same, but flows 375.56cfm @ 9.01"H2O. Cutting will vary on any sharp edge orifice.
@@tristan_white thanks I’ll await your demonstration
Hi ;-)
Where did you buy this indicator setup?
Thanks
The Manometer, the Pitot Tube, the Digital Differential Pressure Manometer, or Orifice?
@Tristan White the dial indicator setup for valve plunging
@@SpeedyGonzales234 www.precisionmeasure.com/product/flow-bench-valve-opening-fixture/
You are calling out one thousand when that's truly 100 thousandths on the dail ,yes I'm a machinist and own a bunch of those dail indicators
Tristan can I email or call you. We have a 3 motor setup which has very good vacuum but the differential pressure is less than 0. We are puzzled?
I would prefer to talk on here in case someone else has the same issue. Let's clarify the problem real quick. Think of dP as an absolute value number and not in the since of + or -. The + or - just tells you the direction of flow, so if you swap your leads the number will be the same but in the + direction. If this does not solve your problem please describe your complete setup and where the sensing lines are placed in relation to the system.
@@tristan_white The setup is similar to yours. The absolute magnitude is 0.02. I am thinking it has to do with the placement of the sensing tubes.
@Fernando Hood are you using an orifice or pitot tube? Is the .02 in inH2O? If using an orifice you want the pressure taps as close as humanly possible on opposite sides of the orifice. If too far away your sensing lines will see flow and you will have the venturi effect and inaccurate data. If using an orifice what is it calibrated to flow and at what depression?
how can talk to you
You have a question?
Im not an electrician but I dont think you are allowed to attach your grounds and neutrals wires to the same bar except in the first electric box of your system.
They are each independent circuits. If there is a fault current in one switch it has no impact on the others. This protects the switch housing from becoming energized and hurt someone like my kids when they flip the switches. I made it the way I did for safety, and if I burn up a single motor then that's all that is affected and will trip its individual breaker.
@@tristan_white your ground wires have to be attached to a separate bar which is attached to the box. The neutral bar cannot to electrically attached to the box unless its the first box in your system
The way you have it connected, if your neutral wire were to burn off or become disconnected, the ground wires would be carrying current. Major code violation
@@tristan_white Watch the video
when and why to seperate neutral and ground
@TheJohndeere466 I think we are miss communicating. This is infact how you wire the effective ground fault current path. If the ground/ neutral wire shorted out it would send the fault current back to the breaker and trip it. It is the process of electrically bonding and grounding. I also have it backed up by an additional main feed breaker that provides the boxes main ground. If an individual breaker fails to trip it will send the fault current out to the main feed breaker.
😬 "promo sm"!
You are calling out one thousand when that's truly 100 thousandths on the dail ,yes I'm a machinist and own a bunch of those dail indicators
Sorry for the miss speak, but anyone watching this should know that. I obviously miss spoke.