I barely talked the wife out of it on our last remodel ... I still have a hard time painting over beautiful wood grain ... but "modern" is definitely changing. Nice work 👏🏼
The first time is the definitely hardest! 🤣 I grew up dreaming of having a house full of golden oak trim. I felt the same way about painting it at first, and then after seeing it, I’m ok with doing it on all the woodwork in the house. Hope you’re out enjoying that motorcycle. I just got back from a nice ride along the river.
I think this was the best paint cabinet I've seen for the budget. Great work. I'll be painting my cabinets this way for the laundry room. Thank You for the video.
So so beautiful, but, boy what a lot of work....especially on all of the face frames where you have to do all of that grain filling/sanding on a vertical surface in your kitchen. Thanks so much for sharing your process. Very beautiful.
It’s really not that much additional work above and beyond the priming and painting. The overall painting project is a lot of work but this step is just one step. I wouldn’t consider painting oak cabinets without doing this.
Great video! I haaaate my ugly 90s honey oak (that the previous owners specifically chose while remodeling in the 90s) and want to redo them. This was so so helpful!
Our cabinet doors are not all flat like this and have trim and such that a roller can't fit into. Will using a brush on those sections and a roller on the flat sections look funny? Should I use a brush for the whole area instead to keep it consistent? Thank you for the video, very helpful!
Hi Amanda, with this type of paint that is self leveling you should not have a problem with your approach. If your paint is not self leveling then you should add some Floetrol to it so that it levels out better. You could also use a spray gun for the doors and get great results. Best of luck your project. Cheers, Paul
My oak cabinets have been poorly painted over by the previous owner. Should I remove the paint first before using the grain filler? And if so, what is the best method to remove it?
Hi Kate, Full removal seems unnecessary to me unless there is something unusual going on with the paint. Assuming that it's just a lousy paint job, I would lightly sand, prime with Kilz, and then follow the steps in this video.
clean, sand, grain fill, sand, grain fill, prime, sand, paint. I counted 8 steps. But, as someone who had painters come in and just paint similar cabinets (selling a rental house) I can see a HUGE difference in your work compared to theirs. If I were to keep the house this method would've been great.
We are going to re-model our kitchen cabinets, So far this video has been the best so far. I have a question. Can you please tell me the drying process for each step or coat? Thanks for these tips and I'm now subscribed
Thank you. I followed the directions on the container. I think it’s a couple hours between coats but verify that, and overnight before the first coat of paint.
I have similar oak bathroom vanity. If I want to get an even smoother appearance would additional pore filling do it? Is it possible to get it 100% or close to it smooth? Also I don't see the link for the dust containment system you mentioned. Thank you for the video.
Sorry about neglecting to include that link. Here you go. Zip walls for dust containment: amzn.to/46wkpUr You can always try another coat of filler if you think the pores are not completely filled. Another way to get a smoother surface would be to add floetrol to the paint (amzn.to/4fp9dNh), and even better, add floetrol AND use a spray gun to really lay it down smooth.
Hi Paul, Those oak cabinets are exactly what I have. Paul did you change out the hardware on the door that attaches to the cabinet frame? It looks like you can no longer see the door hardware. Thanks Paul.
Good question. I haven't tried bondo for this application, but I've tried spackle. I found Aquacoat to be easier to work with and get level, better shelf life, and less messy when sanding.
I'm considering painting some interior doors, and my concern is the grain showing through. I think this process should solve that problem. What do you think about spraying rather than rolling the primer and paint?
Hi Jeff, That would be better yet. Typically, if I’m painting something in the nicer weather (we get 2-3 weeks per year of nice weather in MN) I take it outside and spray it with an HVLP gun. The results are slightly better that way, and quicker. But for cabinets, a lot of that work needs to happen inside and spraying requires a lot of prep so I just generally brush and roll.
@@ToolMetrix I'm in MN too! I just finished creating an isolated finishing area in my basement. This will be a good project to project to try out the area with something a bit bigger than a planter.
Id like to try this on my cabinets. The previous owner painted without covering the grain though like you do here. Any recommendations. Sand first then cover the grain?
Id suggest either satin or semi gloss. Gloss is a bit more modern while satin is more traditional and casual. Both are enamel based and quite durable. Semi gloss is perhaps a bit more durable.
I'd suggest a light sanding, add a couple coats of Kilz, then paint as normal. No need to sand to bare wood unless the original underlying finish is peeling and the previous owner didn't address it during the terrible paint job.
I see you're in MN. Apparently MN hasn't enacted VOC bans like we now have in MI. Oil based Kilz has always been my go to for sealing just about anything, but now we can't get it. I had a buddy coming back from Fl from his winter home bring me a some bootleg painting supplies. I feel like a smuggler!
Everyone has their own preferences. Yours are different than mine. 😃 There was a time when I would have said the same thing but my tastes have evolved.
I barely talked the wife out of it on our last remodel ... I still have a hard time painting over beautiful wood grain ... but "modern" is definitely changing. Nice work 👏🏼
The first time is the definitely hardest! 🤣 I grew up dreaming of having a house full of golden oak trim. I felt the same way about painting it at first, and then after seeing it, I’m ok with doing it on all the woodwork in the house. Hope you’re out enjoying that motorcycle. I just got back from a nice ride along the river.
My wife used these plans from woodprix and she's very satisfied.
I think this was the best paint cabinet I've seen for the budget. Great work. I'll be painting my cabinets this way for the laundry room. Thank You for the video.
Thank you!🙏
So so beautiful, but, boy what a lot of work....especially on all of the face frames where you have to do all of that grain filling/sanding on a vertical surface in your kitchen. Thanks so much for sharing your process. Very beautiful.
It’s really not that much additional work above and beyond the priming and painting. The overall painting project is a lot of work but this step is just one step. I wouldn’t consider painting oak cabinets without doing this.
Great video! I haaaate my ugly 90s honey oak (that the previous owners specifically chose while remodeling in the 90s) and want to redo them. This was so so helpful!
Awesome! Thanks for your input and best of luck with your project.
After you painted them it made your cabinets look more modern.
Thanks for watching, Bret. I agree, gives them a more modern look.
Our cabinet doors are not all flat like this and have trim and such that a roller can't fit into. Will using a brush on those sections and a roller on the flat sections look funny? Should I use a brush for the whole area instead to keep it consistent? Thank you for the video, very helpful!
Hi Amanda, with this type of paint that is self leveling you should not have a problem with your approach. If your paint is not self leveling then you should add some Floetrol to it so that it levels out better. You could also use a spray gun for the doors and get great results. Best of luck your project. Cheers, Paul
My oak cabinets have been poorly painted over by the previous owner. Should I remove the paint first before using the grain filler? And if so, what is the best method to remove it?
Hi Kate, Full removal seems unnecessary to me unless there is something unusual going on with the paint. Assuming that it's just a lousy paint job, I would lightly sand, prime with Kilz, and then follow the steps in this video.
So prime with Kilz then grain filler?
That’s what I’d think. Defer to the instructions on the grain filler when in doubt. Those guys know a thing or two. 😃
clean, sand, grain fill, sand, grain fill, prime, sand, paint. I counted 8 steps. But, as someone who had painters come in and just paint similar cabinets (selling a rental house) I can see a HUGE difference in your work compared to theirs. If I were to keep the house this method would've been great.
I guess I lost count but fair point. 😀 thanks for sharing your thoughts. Cheers, Paul
We are going to re-model our kitchen cabinets, So far this video has been the best so far. I have a question. Can you please tell me the drying process for each step or coat? Thanks for these tips and I'm now subscribed
Thank you. I followed the directions on the container. I think it’s a couple hours between coats but verify that, and overnight before the first coat of paint.
I have similar oak bathroom vanity. If I want to get an even smoother appearance would additional pore filling do it? Is it possible to get it 100% or close to it smooth? Also I don't see the link for the dust containment system you mentioned. Thank you for the video.
Sorry about neglecting to include that link. Here you go. Zip walls for dust containment: amzn.to/46wkpUr
You can always try another coat of filler if you think the pores are not completely filled. Another way to get a smoother surface would be to add floetrol to the paint (amzn.to/4fp9dNh), and even better, add floetrol AND use a spray gun to really lay it down smooth.
Hi Paul, Those oak cabinets are exactly what I have. Paul did you change out the hardware on the door that attaches to the cabinet frame? It looks like you can no longer see the door hardware. Thanks Paul.
Good eye. Yes I did. I’m using Euro hinges now. I also made new doors with a simple shaker style.
Ive seen others using red bondo as the filler instead of aquacoat. Any reason to use aquacoat over bondo? Thanks for the video
Good question. I haven't tried bondo for this application, but I've tried spackle. I found Aquacoat to be easier to work with and get level, better shelf life, and less messy when sanding.
Something you might want to check: Aqua Coat explicitly says to not use tack clothes in their preparation instructions.
Thanks Eddie. I’ll look into that. No problems so far.
What grit sandpaper are you using to prep the cabinets?
Sanded to 180 grit I believe.
I used 3 coats and still saw the grain on my window sill that was similar wood.
Three coats of this brand of white grain filler? If that’s the case I can’t imagine what went wrong. That’s bizarre.
I'm considering painting some interior doors, and my concern is the grain showing through. I think this process should solve that problem. What do you think about spraying rather than rolling the primer and paint?
Hi Jeff, That would be better yet. Typically, if I’m painting something in the nicer weather (we get 2-3 weeks per year of nice weather in MN) I take it outside and spray it with an HVLP gun. The results are slightly better that way, and quicker. But for cabinets, a lot of that work needs to happen inside and spraying requires a lot of prep so I just generally brush and roll.
@@ToolMetrix I'm in MN too! I just finished creating an isolated finishing area in my basement. This will be a good project to project to try out the area with something a bit bigger than a planter.
@jeffp5991 wow, an isolated finishing area, nice luxury!
Id like to try this on my cabinets. The previous owner painted without covering the grain though like you do here. Any recommendations. Sand first then cover the grain?
Shouldn't be a problem at all. I would lightly sand, fill grain, prime with Kilz or similar, then paint.
Nice demo, thanks wish a different close up but looked good 👍
Thank you 🙏
will aqua coat stick to varnished wood? to poly?
Yes. Look at the instructions to be sure that you do it correctly.
What type of finish do you recommend for the behr cabinet paint? Thanks
Id suggest either satin or semi gloss. Gloss is a bit more modern while satin is more traditional and casual. Both are enamel based and quite durable. Semi gloss is perhaps a bit more durable.
@ToolMetrix thanks for replying!
@PINBO4.13.21 my pleasure
Do you put the side panels through the same process? Thx.
Yes I did.
Any tips for cabinets the previous owner painted? Lets say my dog coulda smeared 💩 that looks better.... 😂full sand and start from scratch?
I'd suggest a light sanding, add a couple coats of Kilz, then paint as normal. No need to sand to bare wood unless the original underlying finish is peeling and the previous owner didn't address it during the terrible paint job.
I see you're in MN. Apparently MN hasn't enacted VOC bans like we now have in MI. Oil based Kilz has always been my go to for sealing just about anything, but now we can't get it. I had a buddy coming back from Fl from his winter home bring me a some bootleg painting supplies. I feel like a smuggler!
Wow that’s interesting! I hadn’t heard about that. What a drag. The stuff is definitely pretty nasty but when you need it, you need it.
Great tips, thanks for posting.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching. Cheers.
Damnit Paul, quit giving my wife ideas for projects on the honey do list. #fired
Oh, no, what have I done?!?! I'm going to end up on everybody's hit list! Once you paint ONE thing, you are on the hook to paint EVERYthing!
Not in a million years would I screw up my cabinets like that!
Everyone has their own preferences. Yours are different than mine. 😃 There was a time when I would have said the same thing but my tastes have evolved.