Really stoked for my upcoming heat pump install on Monday. I've just had all the parts delivered. We're having a Daikin air source to water system fitted to our 5.8KWh battery and solar system. We've sourced an EDDI to handle extra heating to the water cylinder. I'm hoping that we'll realise a good saving once it's all settled in - we're also going to 'pre-heat' the house overnight on the cheap rate as we're on Intelligent Octopus for our EV. Astonished that our entire ASHP setup is only going to cost us £867 total, including nine new radiators! Seemed stupid not to go for it. All done by Octopus.
Thank you, I spend a lot of time tweaking them to be as clear as possible but it's a lot of data to show so I'm never sure if they make sense to other people or not!
Thanks Tim all very interesting, my gas for November 24 3 bed detached ( central Scotland)was £79. Solar pv (5.1kWp south) generated 153 kW with a massive £1.61 free electricity. The new rules for DFS so far look disappointing, if the payment for savings/export are as paltry as they seem many people wont bother !
Indeed, it's not really worth participating with the DFS levels as they are. I guess we'll see what happens but I'm hoping the lack of interest will lead to an increase again at some point.
This is my first winter without gas and i have the temp set high as im old and cold at 19 for the house and over 20 for the livingroom running 24/7 and i used 407kwh for November, i dont have any hot water just the electric Shower andd wash up using the kettle, ive been told thats daft but it works for . im saving so much money . Thanks for the video it is good to know what others a using , the 407 included car charging too but i dont go far these days .
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk i never had range anxiety with my car but this being my first winter i have trying to carful but after Novembers numbers i am more confident of using a bit more power.
The real savings, at least in KWh have come from hot water via the heat pump - very interesting the difference that has made. I do ponder if the older solar thermal systems would be a good bedfellow for a heat pump? They would in effect take the heat pump power consumption in spring to autumn to zero. What are your feelings on this? I've been doing some thinking on passive heating recently, going back to more natural principles...
It's an interesting question. My feeling is that the roof space taken up by solar thermal could be better utilised with solar PV instead, as that is a much more general purpose energy source. Solar thermal also requires extensive plumbing, which is costly and complicated, whereas solar PV is relatively cheap and easy to install (especially now that panel prices are so low). I think on a purely economic basis solar PV is now a better option than solar thermal.
Just had an Eddi fitted and the Solar company I used were negative over the cost savings of the mixergy system and advised the mixergy also required an Eddi and that the Eddi would be responsible for costs savings between April and October solar is at its strongest. Grateful for your thoughts?
My iHP is different from the regular Mixergy cylinder, it has a built in heat pump so uses significantly less energy than a regular cylinder using an immersion, or even the regular Mixergy cylinder. The iHP also comes with a built-in solar diverter so it doesn't need an eddi. In fact, with export rates as high as they are now I don't bother doing any solar diverting at all, I heat my hot water overnight using the cheap rate power and then any excess solar gets exported to the grid instead of going into the hot water. It all depends on the tariff rates you're currently on, if your export rate is lower than your overnight import rate then solar diversion is the better option but for us we can heat our water at 8.5 p/kWh overnight and export excess solar at 15 p/kWh, so it makes sense for us to avoid solar diversion entirely.
Thank you for your very interesting and informative videos. I also have an A2A Toshiba heat pump for my heating. You may have covered it in previous videos but which mode for the A2A heat pump do you use/find most effective to heat your house. Auto mode on Toshiba never seems to heat up, I suspect I should have this on all the time. I use heat mode and only during off peak times (or when particularly cold). Keen to hear your thoughts on this?
Actually I'm planning on covering this is some detail in a future video (possibly this week). But briefly, I run the units in heating mode on their lowest fan setting, pointing directly downwards, with the temperature set to 19 deg, and more or less leave it like that during the day. I do turn it off occasionally if I spot the outside units are cycling excessively or if the room temperatures overshoot too much. I also boost during the overnight cheap period, setting the temperature from anywhere between 19 and 21 deg, depending on how cold it's going to be the following day (boosting more if it's going to be colder). That's more or less it, but look out for the video, I'll explain a lot more in that.
Never run in "Auto" mode, it will switch to cooling if the inside temperature gets too hot (either from solar gain - or other forms of heating). Heat mode will scale back if it needs to when getting too hot (and if it is still too hot below the minimum power output, it'll go into standby). Using the Automatic fan speed is fine, however. I typically have mine set to a high fan speed (sometimes powerful), but my units are placed to cover a wider area (e.g. my hallway unit has a clear shot through the lounge and dining room).
I don't need to, no, I'm pretty happy with Octopus right now. I'm not knocking E.ON Next Drive, it's a great tariff, but it's not worth switching for me.
@TimAndKatsGreenWalk I find the extra couple of hours makes a big difference as you discharge the battery later and you can still get your £50 referrals 😉
I shifted over a couple of weeks ago and tried to convince Tim but he wasn't having it! I think Tim should switch until Octopus let him onto Intelligent as a form of protest.
@@carlarrowsmith Exactly. Cheaper off-peak, longer off-peak, I like that it aligns with the start of the day, plus higher export. The standing charge is 2p higher but no issue. And I now have to do gas meter readings as well as I'm staying with Octopus.
Someone explain to me the "we warm the house up at night off peak costs" etc.... I hate sleeping in bed when the heating is on, let alone high ? Bedrooms always TRV limited/zoned down to low temp or something ?
Very insightful and useful as always, thank you for sharing your journey. One question, do you track the temperature of the house during the day and night? And compare against outside temperature ? Thanks.
I have min-max thermometers throughout the house, but they're not smart ones, sadly, so I don't have a time-series plot, just the min and max values that I check periodically. That's been fine for us for now, although I'm quite tempted to upgrade them so I can get some actual plots over time. We don't have any external temperature monitoring either, so that's something else I'd like to upgrade at some point too.
@ I have a Hive system that shows daily temperature data from the thermostat, but is not exportable in any way so doesn’t actually provide anything useful. It would be nice to be able to map the data against gas/electricity consumption / efficiency but unless you get somewhat ‘hobbyist’ perhaps using a Pi or something I’m not sure it can be done easily.
@@alannicolle2594 in the past I've used historical data for the area to get outside temperatures, and that has worked pretty well for modelling our energy consumption vs temperature. But it'd be nice to have my own measurements too. I'll get around to it one day.
great video, just a question, if you've used 841khw and your solar has only produced 102kwh how was the remainder 739kwh generated? gas? wind nuclear?, our project is to reduce our usage from the grid, we have used 383kwh of electricity and 1380 kwh of gas for November. the gas stays because we are in control of how much we use... if you insulate your home and change the radiators and lower the flow rate from the boiler we have reduced our gas usage by over 50% we do have solar and battery storage but that's to reduce what we use from the grid not drag more cheap rate electricity from the grid, it will be interesting to see your total electricity usage for the year?
You can see our total electricity usage for the year, it's right there in the charts I showed. As is our annual solar generation. Any electricity we import from the grid has a lower carbon footprint than burning gas in a boiler (the UK average electricity carbon intensity is lower than gas, especially overnight, see: th-cam.com/video/bMA2uudMgsQ/w-d-xo.html), and we generate nearly as much over the course of a year as we consume in total. Excess is exported back to the grid in the summer during peak times when the grid is dirtiest, so overall we're essentially a net zero carbon home. Using electricity in a heat pump has a significantly lower carbon footprint than a gas boiler, especially as the UK electricity generation mix becomes increasingly powered by renewables. And we're very much in control over how much energy we use, just because we use electricity to heat our home doesn't mean we don't have control over it.
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk thanks Tim for the reply, we generate over 6000kwh of solar which is way more than we consume so you could say we are net zero, plus one of our systems is the old feed in tariff so we are really net off grid, heat pumps work i'm in no doubt about that. the gas boiler is much more comfortable to live with and we dry the washing on the radiators in winter, the boiler is off from April/May to September/October as the diverter takes care of the hot water.... electricity is 21.35p standing charge 66.26p compared to gas 5.91p standing charge 29.67p... a new boiler would cost 1.5k to replace so it's a no brainer.. Great youtube channel👍
@@robin5215 talk to any heat pump owner and they'll say that they are more comfortable now than they were with gas, so I don't consider that a reason to stick with gas. We don't pay the gas standing charge at all, you have to pay both, so I don't know how sticking with gas is a benefit there either. I don't really care that you want to keep your gas supply, that's entirely your call. But I'm glad we got rid of our gas supply.
No, I've been on regular Go since Oct, I'm not able to get IOG yet as neither our EV charger (GivEnergy) nor EV (Fiat 500e) are compatible yet. I'm hoping our charger will be included soon as I know it's been in testing for ages. Some sort of holdup is preventing progress, annoyingly.
It sure was. At this time of year I don't expect much solar anyway but it really does help when we get a sunny day and the heating can be covered by the solar, at least in part.
The same as during the day most of the time but a degree or two higher when I know it's going to be cold the following day to try and get a bit more heat into the house. During the day we set the units to 19 but generally they overshoot and the rooms get to between 19 and 22.
Good question. We actually just leave them on the lowest fan setting and that is fine for the vast majority of the time. We only notch up the fan speed when it gets particularly cold, and only then for brief periods.
I have the sane A2A system as you, but only in my living room - it takes no longer than 30 mins to heat from however cold it is ( and it can get down to 14C overnight ) so why not turn the heating off at bedtime and then put on @ 5AM for the last 30 mins of the cheap rate ?
It takes time for the heat to get into the walls and furniture etc. It's all about loading up the thermal mass of the house, not just heating the air. That 30 mins of heating would dissipate very quickly once the units are turned off if you've only heated the air. th-cam.com/video/q1tYCenxb2M/w-d-xo.html
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk With A2A you don't have to worry about loading the thermal mass of the house! That's the whole point of it, as I have said our Living room is ready to use after 30 mins of heating no matter how cold its got, the room is 7m x 3.5m and the internal wall is 150mm block work. Basic Physics tells you the heat loss is proportional to excess temperature so any time you heat above the outside temperature you will get heat loss! So when ever possible you should turn off the heating. By turning on at 5am you will get 30 mins of off peak electricity to bring the house back up to temperature.
@@chrisbell5248 watch that video I linked to. The aim of heating overnight is so that you need less heating during the day which then helps the battery last longer, and so less peak rate energy is needed. That is exactly what I've been achieving with this strategy. The fact that it's A2A is irrelevant, it works just the same with A2A as with A2W. If you have cold walls and furniture then as soon as you turn off your A2A units all the heat in the air gets absorbed by the walls making the room feel cold again. You absolutely benefit from loading the thermal mass of the house. It also helps make the A2A system run more efficiently as it doesn't have to work as hard. Exactly the same principle as with A2W. Seriously, go watch that video, it's really good (and has lots of physics in it) 😉
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk Then it sounds as if you have sized you battery storage incorrectly and are having to do silly things to try and compensate for this, with my 2 Powerwalls I never have to purchase "Peak" electricity and managed to save £8.12 during Octopus's 2 hour free period. Before you say it's not cost effective to increase storage remember that until you have something you can never fully understand all the benefits it brings.
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk I have been thinking about solar and batteries, obviously only know very little but picking things up from people like yourself , I know I don’t want solar on the roof , have a reasonable garden so was thinking that more suited, there’s lots of choices when it comes to many solar panels and I know some are more efficient than others which is a minefield, then there’s batteries also many choices which is another minefield , so because I’m a very curious person and have been conned with different things in life hard to know where to start really .
@KavanOBrien most solar panels nowadays are very good, so don't stress too much over that particular choice. There are many many battery options though, as you say. It is indeed tricky to navigate.
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk just watched that video again already watched it before, the gentleman in the video is beyond brilliant not only with his knowledge but his explanation of everything , out of my price range probably but would just say to him put me a system in of your choice for me , knowing he would be reliable in his choice and I wouldn’t need to question anything , if only there was more like him.
There's no consumer available device that can provide that level of detail for A2A, as with A2W the whole thing is essentially self contained so measureable, water heat energy in, water heat energy out + electrical consumption and flow rate. You can probably get in the right ballpark, of knowing the heat loss of a property, and the expected amount of heat required on a particular day based on outside temperature. But given Tim is essentially turning on and off certain units at different points of the day, it's not going to be entirely accurate either.
Can't put A2A systems on open energy monitor. I've been extremely generous to gas here, assuming a very poor SCOP for my system of less than 3, to prevent exactly this sort of accusation. The cost calculation for my A2A is bang on, and my estimate of the gas cost is very much on the low side and it's likely to be much higher. Fake results, for goodness sake. I really hope I've misinterpreted your comment as I very much don't appreciate being accused of fabricating data or doing dodgy analysis.
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk Pretty sure the true figure for gas would have been over £100 when taking into account gas inefficiencies and a more realistic SCOP.
I have done already. Take a look at the videos linked in the description. But I already get the impression you're quite anti-heat pump given the ALL CAPS!!!!!!!!
![เปิดบ้าน โคตรสวย ป๋องกพล รู้จักตั้งนาน เพิ่งรู้ว่ารวย!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tmgCF_2HfYI/mqdefault.jpg)
Really stoked for my upcoming heat pump install on Monday. I've just had all the parts delivered. We're having a Daikin air source to water system fitted to our 5.8KWh battery and solar system. We've sourced an EDDI to handle extra heating to the water cylinder. I'm hoping that we'll realise a good saving once it's all settled in - we're also going to 'pre-heat' the house overnight on the cheap rate as we're on Intelligent Octopus for our EV. Astonished that our entire ASHP setup is only going to cost us £867 total, including nine new radiators! Seemed stupid not to go for it. All done by Octopus.
Wow, that's amazing! What a great price. It sounds like you'll be well set up once that's installed.
Thanks Tim loving the charts, very clear and easy to read
Thank you, I spend a lot of time tweaking them to be as clear as possible but it's a lot of data to show so I'm never sure if they make sense to other people or not!
Thanks Tim all very interesting, my gas for November 24 3 bed detached ( central Scotland)was £79.
Solar pv (5.1kWp south) generated 153 kW with a massive £1.61 free electricity.
The new rules for DFS so far look disappointing, if the payment for savings/export are as paltry as they seem many people wont bother !
Indeed, it's not really worth participating with the DFS levels as they are. I guess we'll see what happens but I'm hoping the lack of interest will lead to an increase again at some point.
This is my first winter without gas and i have the temp set high as im old and cold at 19 for the house and over 20 for the livingroom running 24/7 and i used 407kwh for November, i dont have any hot water just the electric Shower andd wash up using the kettle, ive been told thats daft but it works for . im saving so much money . Thanks for the video it is good to know what others a using , the 407 included car charging too but i dont go far these days .
That's pretty impressive, actually, nicely done.
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk i never had range anxiety with my car but this being my first winter i have trying to carful but after Novembers numbers i am more confident of using a bit more power.
Thanks Tim 👍👍👍
No problem.
Excellent video as always. We were on it for the latest free electricity session & managed £9.25 of savings
Wow, great going!
The combination of PV and Octopus intelligent Go make being all electric very affordable. We saved £5.74 in the 2 hours of free power.
Very nice. You're absolutely right, the combination of a good time of use tariff with all this technology is very powerful.
My solar production in Brighton was down similar to yours.
The last few months have been very disappointing in general. I'm hoping it'll improve next spring.
@TimAndKatsGreenWalk Sept and Oct were pretty similar, March was very poor.
When will you include servicing costs for the heat pumps?
It's a bit more than servicing a gas boiler, but in the same ballpark, so doesn't much affect the overall difference in running cost.
The real savings, at least in KWh have come from hot water via the heat pump - very interesting the difference that has made. I do ponder if the older solar thermal systems would be a good bedfellow for a heat pump? They would in effect take the heat pump power consumption in spring to autumn to zero. What are your feelings on this? I've been doing some thinking on passive heating recently, going back to more natural principles...
It's an interesting question. My feeling is that the roof space taken up by solar thermal could be better utilised with solar PV instead, as that is a much more general purpose energy source. Solar thermal also requires extensive plumbing, which is costly and complicated, whereas solar PV is relatively cheap and easy to install (especially now that panel prices are so low). I think on a purely economic basis solar PV is now a better option than solar thermal.
Just had an Eddi fitted and the Solar company I used were negative over the cost savings of the mixergy system and advised the mixergy also required an Eddi and that the Eddi would be responsible for costs savings between April and October solar is at its strongest. Grateful for your thoughts?
My iHP is different from the regular Mixergy cylinder, it has a built in heat pump so uses significantly less energy than a regular cylinder using an immersion, or even the regular Mixergy cylinder. The iHP also comes with a built-in solar diverter so it doesn't need an eddi. In fact, with export rates as high as they are now I don't bother doing any solar diverting at all, I heat my hot water overnight using the cheap rate power and then any excess solar gets exported to the grid instead of going into the hot water. It all depends on the tariff rates you're currently on, if your export rate is lower than your overnight import rate then solar diversion is the better option but for us we can heat our water at 8.5 p/kWh overnight and export excess solar at 15 p/kWh, so it makes sense for us to avoid solar diversion entirely.
Have you looked into HEATA (server to heat your hot water tank)
I saw something about that a year or so ago. It's an interesting concept. I'm pretty happy with our Mixergy iHP though.
Thank you for your very interesting and informative videos. I also have an A2A Toshiba heat pump for my heating. You may have covered it in previous videos but which mode for the A2A heat pump do you use/find most effective to heat your house. Auto mode on Toshiba never seems to heat up, I suspect I should have this on all the time. I use heat mode and only during off peak times (or when particularly cold). Keen to hear your thoughts on this?
Actually I'm planning on covering this is some detail in a future video (possibly this week). But briefly, I run the units in heating mode on their lowest fan setting, pointing directly downwards, with the temperature set to 19 deg, and more or less leave it like that during the day. I do turn it off occasionally if I spot the outside units are cycling excessively or if the room temperatures overshoot too much. I also boost during the overnight cheap period, setting the temperature from anywhere between 19 and 21 deg, depending on how cold it's going to be the following day (boosting more if it's going to be colder). That's more or less it, but look out for the video, I'll explain a lot more in that.
Never run in "Auto" mode, it will switch to cooling if the inside temperature gets too hot (either from solar gain - or other forms of heating).
Heat mode will scale back if it needs to when getting too hot (and if it is still too hot below the minimum power output, it'll go into standby).
Using the Automatic fan speed is fine, however.
I typically have mine set to a high fan speed (sometimes powerful), but my units are placed to cover a wider area (e.g. my hallway unit has a clear shot through the lounge and dining room).
You need to change over to E.on next drive, cheaper off peak at 6.7p and 7 hours at the cheap rate
I don't need to, no, I'm pretty happy with Octopus right now. I'm not knocking E.ON Next Drive, it's a great tariff, but it's not worth switching for me.
@TimAndKatsGreenWalk I find the extra couple of hours makes a big difference as you discharge the battery later and you can still get your £50 referrals 😉
I shifted over a couple of weeks ago and tried to convince Tim but he wasn't having it! I think Tim should switch until Octopus let him onto Intelligent as a form of protest.
@FlatToRentUK 👍 can also get 16.5p for solar export rather than the 15p of Octopus.
@@carlarrowsmith Exactly. Cheaper off-peak, longer off-peak, I like that it aligns with the start of the day, plus higher export. The standing charge is 2p higher but no issue. And I now have to do gas meter readings as well as I'm staying with Octopus.
Someone explain to me the "we warm the house up at night off peak costs" etc.... I hate sleeping in bed when the heating is on, let alone high ? Bedrooms always TRV limited/zoned down to low temp or something ?
We don't heat the bedroom, just the rest of the house. One of the advantages of A2A is that is very easy to do.
@TimAndKatsGreenWalk ah okay 👍 you can request heat per unit quite easily?
@@jamesripper yup, just turn the individual units on or off as required, or adjust individual temperatures in different rooms.
Very insightful and useful as always, thank you for sharing your journey. One question, do you track the temperature of the house during the day and night? And compare against outside temperature ? Thanks.
I have min-max thermometers throughout the house, but they're not smart ones, sadly, so I don't have a time-series plot, just the min and max values that I check periodically. That's been fine for us for now, although I'm quite tempted to upgrade them so I can get some actual plots over time. We don't have any external temperature monitoring either, so that's something else I'd like to upgrade at some point too.
@ I have a Hive system that shows daily temperature data from the thermostat, but is not exportable in any way so doesn’t actually provide anything useful. It would be nice to be able to map the data against gas/electricity consumption / efficiency but unless you get somewhat ‘hobbyist’ perhaps using a Pi or something I’m not sure it can be done easily.
@@alannicolle2594 in the past I've used historical data for the area to get outside temperatures, and that has worked pretty well for modelling our energy consumption vs temperature. But it'd be nice to have my own measurements too. I'll get around to it one day.
great video, just a question, if you've used 841khw and your solar has only produced 102kwh how was the remainder 739kwh generated? gas? wind nuclear?, our project is to reduce our usage from the grid, we have used 383kwh of electricity and 1380 kwh of gas for November. the gas stays because we are in control of how much we use... if you insulate your home and change the radiators and lower the flow rate from the boiler we have reduced our gas usage by over 50% we do have solar and battery storage but that's to reduce what we use from the grid not drag more cheap rate electricity from the grid, it will be interesting to see your total electricity usage for the year?
You can see our total electricity usage for the year, it's right there in the charts I showed. As is our annual solar generation. Any electricity we import from the grid has a lower carbon footprint than burning gas in a boiler (the UK average electricity carbon intensity is lower than gas, especially overnight, see: th-cam.com/video/bMA2uudMgsQ/w-d-xo.html), and we generate nearly as much over the course of a year as we consume in total. Excess is exported back to the grid in the summer during peak times when the grid is dirtiest, so overall we're essentially a net zero carbon home. Using electricity in a heat pump has a significantly lower carbon footprint than a gas boiler, especially as the UK electricity generation mix becomes increasingly powered by renewables. And we're very much in control over how much energy we use, just because we use electricity to heat our home doesn't mean we don't have control over it.
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk thanks Tim for the reply, we generate over 6000kwh of solar which is way more than we consume so you could say we are net zero, plus one of our systems is the old feed in tariff so we are really net off grid, heat pumps work i'm in no doubt about that. the gas boiler is much more comfortable to live with and we dry the washing on the radiators in winter, the boiler is off from April/May to September/October as the diverter takes care of the hot water.... electricity is 21.35p standing charge 66.26p compared to gas 5.91p standing charge 29.67p... a new boiler would cost 1.5k to replace so it's a no brainer.. Great youtube channel👍
@@robin5215 talk to any heat pump owner and they'll say that they are more comfortable now than they were with gas, so I don't consider that a reason to stick with gas. We don't pay the gas standing charge at all, you have to pay both, so I don't know how sticking with gas is a benefit there either. I don't really care that you want to keep your gas supply, that's entirely your call. But I'm glad we got rid of our gas supply.
Tim i thought youwete on IOG and therefore getting 7.0p unit price not 8.5p. or have i misunderstood your video? Great result though.
No, I've been on regular Go since Oct, I'm not able to get IOG yet as neither our EV charger (GivEnergy) nor EV (Fiat 500e) are compatible yet. I'm hoping our charger will be included soon as I know it's been in testing for ages. Some sort of holdup is preventing progress, annoyingly.
Tim 193 In 2023 only 132 in 2024. the start of the month was awfull
It sure was. At this time of year I don't expect much solar anyway but it really does help when we get a sunny day and the heating can be covered by the solar, at least in part.
Hi Tim what temperature did you set the house to at night?
The same as during the day most of the time but a degree or two higher when I know it's going to be cold the following day to try and get a bit more heat into the house. During the day we set the units to 19 but generally they overshoot and the rooms get to between 19 and 22.
A quesion about the aircon ventilation speed. Do you think to have them always on automatic is the most energy efficiënt?
Good question. We actually just leave them on the lowest fan setting and that is fine for the vast majority of the time. We only notch up the fan speed when it gets particularly cold, and only then for brief periods.
I have the sane A2A system as you, but only in my living room - it takes no longer than 30 mins to heat from however cold it is ( and it can get down to 14C overnight ) so why not turn the heating off at bedtime and then put on @ 5AM for the last 30 mins of the cheap rate ?
It takes time for the heat to get into the walls and furniture etc. It's all about loading up the thermal mass of the house, not just heating the air. That 30 mins of heating would dissipate very quickly once the units are turned off if you've only heated the air.
th-cam.com/video/q1tYCenxb2M/w-d-xo.html
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk With A2A you don't have to worry about loading the thermal mass of the house! That's the whole point of it, as I have said our Living room is ready to use after 30 mins of heating no matter how cold its got, the room is 7m x 3.5m and the internal wall is 150mm block work. Basic Physics tells you the heat loss is proportional to excess temperature so any time you heat above the outside temperature you will get heat loss! So when ever possible you should turn off the heating. By turning on at 5am you will get 30 mins of off peak electricity to bring the house back up to temperature.
@@chrisbell5248 watch that video I linked to. The aim of heating overnight is so that you need less heating during the day which then helps the battery last longer, and so less peak rate energy is needed. That is exactly what I've been achieving with this strategy. The fact that it's A2A is irrelevant, it works just the same with A2A as with A2W. If you have cold walls and furniture then as soon as you turn off your A2A units all the heat in the air gets absorbed by the walls making the room feel cold again. You absolutely benefit from loading the thermal mass of the house. It also helps make the A2A system run more efficiently as it doesn't have to work as hard. Exactly the same principle as with A2W. Seriously, go watch that video, it's really good (and has lots of physics in it) 😉
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk Then it sounds as if you have sized you battery storage incorrectly and are having to do silly things to try and compensate for this, with my 2 Powerwalls I never have to purchase "Peak" electricity and managed to save £8.12 during Octopus's 2 hour free period. Before you say it's not cost effective to increase storage remember that until you have something you can never fully understand all the benefits it brings.
As soon as you start insulting me by saying things like "doing silly things" I'm no longer interested in discussing this with you, I'm afraid.
Half… that’s pretty good
I was pretty pleased with that.
Do you see that the future of being paid for generating electricity through batteries will end at some point ?
No, it might change in structure (i.e. the rates may become dependent on the time of day) but it's unlikely to go away completely.
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk I have been thinking about solar and batteries, obviously only know very little but picking things up from people like yourself , I know I don’t want solar on the roof , have a reasonable garden so was thinking that more suited, there’s lots of choices when it comes to many solar panels and I know some are more efficient than others which is a minefield, then there’s batteries also many choices which is another minefield , so because I’m a very curious person and have been conned with different things in life hard to know where to start really .
@KavanOBrien most solar panels nowadays are very good, so don't stress too much over that particular choice. There are many many battery options though, as you say. It is indeed tricky to navigate.
@KavanOBrien this covers a few of the good options right now: th-cam.com/video/7xQGexleUfQ/w-d-xo.html
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk just watched that video again already watched it before, the gentleman in the video is beyond brilliant not only with his knowledge but his explanation of everything , out of my price range probably but would just say to him put me a system in of your choice for me , knowing he would be reliable in his choice and I wouldn’t need to question anything , if only there was more like him.
unless Tim publish the results like them on open energy monitor, his results are open to fake results.
There's no consumer available device that can provide that level of detail for A2A, as with A2W the whole thing is essentially self contained so measureable, water heat energy in, water heat energy out + electrical consumption and flow rate.
You can probably get in the right ballpark, of knowing the heat loss of a property, and the expected amount of heat required on a particular day based on outside temperature. But given Tim is essentially turning on and off certain units at different points of the day, it's not going to be entirely accurate either.
Can't put A2A systems on open energy monitor. I've been extremely generous to gas here, assuming a very poor SCOP for my system of less than 3, to prevent exactly this sort of accusation. The cost calculation for my A2A is bang on, and my estimate of the gas cost is very much on the low side and it's likely to be much higher. Fake results, for goodness sake. I really hope I've misinterpreted your comment as I very much don't appreciate being accused of fabricating data or doing dodgy analysis.
@@TimAndKatsGreenWalk Pretty sure the true figure for gas would have been over £100 when taking into account gas inefficiencies and a more realistic SCOP.
@@BenIsInSweden I agree. The SCOP is likely to be much closer to 4, but because I don't know for sure I've erred on the side of caution.
Will you "Inform of what the COMPLETE COST WAS FOR ALL THIS INSTALLATION. !!!.
I have done already. Take a look at the videos linked in the description. But I already get the impression you're quite anti-heat pump given the ALL CAPS!!!!!!!!