I agree on the better for vertical alignment. My personal opinion on why I build so many bayonets is that it can be pressed into service for delicate stuff more readily. .018 plate versus .02 or .025 and 14 versus 12 ppi. My first saw was a 14" 12ppi carcase, when I got around to building my bayonet, it just replaced the older one, due to the smaller stuff I generally do I guess. Just this man's 2 cents :)
I replaced all my lie Nielsen saws with bad axe saws as well. I have large hands and they are amazing.. put a kink in a lie Nielsen and you’ll need a new saw.
I didn't see you mention, finger hole size in saw handles.... i have a lovely old Disston Tenon saw, 16" long and the handle is right between a 3 finger and a 4 finger handle... was gonna put a custom handle on there. Thoughts...
you all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Baylor Tucker i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Trying to watch but getting ads every 3-4 mins. Going down hand tool hole but becoming a bit much and I know it’s TH-cam. . {sigh} just can’t get to the info.
The Veritas DT saw comes with 14⁰ of rake, adding another 10 is gettin very close to a peg tooth shape....... do you really suggest adding another 10⁰ or did ya get mixed up a little with your numbers? I can understand if you did, ya have got like 5 bazillon saws heheh 😂
Actually what I really recommend is you don't buy the Veritas dovetail saw. I may have mixed up my numbers but the fact is the handle shape and hang angle make the saw awkward and having to alter the geometry to make it run better just ends up sacrificing efficiency
@@RenaissanceWW I already have that saw, and its xcut companion; so it's too late for me now Shannon 🤦♂️😂🤣 my bench is set for sawing (I think that's one of the most important parts of hand tool work) so when my forearm is level, the bench is only marginally lower, about 3 inches (depth of my biggest back saw) I find if I present the saw nearly flat across the edge of a board that it starts better. If I drop the heel or toe it seems to interfere with the saw, might have somethin to do with the hang and/or rake, I'm not sure, but when I drop the heel or toe the saw dont start right. I agree that they are not the best saws; far and away from anything like a Bad Axe, and a fixed back means the saw becomes scraper material if I ever twist it in a kerf (with a deeper saw, hard to twist a little DT saw) I will relax the first few teeth a little with the next round of sharpening to see if it makes it easier to start, coz it does "stick" now and then, but that could jus be my clumsy arm 😂🤣 we dont all have laser guided pistons for arms like you Shannon 🤙 My previous comment wasnt a "dig" at you btw....... you're like my woodworking Guru/God, you're videos are playin in the background everytime I'm in the workshop 😁 I was asking a genuine question Sir 😁
@@whittysworkshop982 No worries I didn't take it as a dig. The biggest thing about the Veritas saws is the super low price. I still don't know how its possible to produces saws that cheaply so they make a great place to start.
@@RenaissanceWW their plates are made in Japan, machine sharpened saws are very common in Japan. Imagine a coil of spring steel hundreds of meters long (think of how hardware store saws are made) teeth are cut out (probably a water jet, or laser cut) the plate is cut to size and sharpened and set by machine. They save money buying plates that are ready for work, all they have to do is inject the resin back/boss assembly for the handle into a mold with the retaining rod for the handle, and shape the handle on a CNC. If you buy an English saw which costs a little more, Pax, Lynx, Greaves, R&L Dorchester (all the same saws but the different brands are like different "trim levels", made my Flinn-Garlick) there is more "hands on work" in the product. But they are not properly sharp plates either, they may be "hand sharpened" in the factory, but not to a finished edge. The saw plate is cut to size, the teeth are stamped, all by a person feeding the machine, not on a robotic assembly line like in Japan. The handles are machined at various routers set ups for the different shapes. And the traditional shape of the handle means there is more material used, and more waste involved. Folded brass backs (polished on the Pax and Dorchester saws) as opposed to molded plastic (veritas dont even do a good job at removing the "flashing" left over from the molding process) Brass saw nuts and medallions, as opposed to a threaded rod holding the handle on a Veritas. And a lot of Flinn-Garlick's machine work is guided by human hand and not CNC. Veritas save money coz they buy plates that are ready for work, all they gotta do is melt some plastic, insert a threaded rod into the mold, and then attach the handle (which is designed to be as small as possible so it costs less and there is less waste, that's why the back continues along to the top of the handle) Their saws are made to be as cheap as possible, not to be the best possible..... they want their saws to be cheap so they can be put into more peoples hands around the world. And this works too, they probably sell more saws than anyone else...... but in 100 years time will these "plastic" saws still live on? I'm doubtful; but enough longevity to serve my lifetime, maybe 😁
Disston 1870s 14 inch 12 pip blows them all away......better cast steel, better sharp teeth last longer ne’er than modern crap steel, heavier. Surprisingly, no mention of advantages weight of a tenon saw. I would not touch a modern saw, after i discovered DISTON. Henry Disston who killed off all foreign import of woodworking tools into the USA, nobody comes remotely close to that achievement. Back saws have gone down hill since 1870, like everything else, especially from China..
I agree on the better for vertical alignment. My personal opinion on why I build so many bayonets is that it can be pressed into service for delicate stuff more readily. .018 plate versus .02 or .025 and 14 versus 12 ppi.
My first saw was a 14" 12ppi carcase, when I got around to building my bayonet, it just replaced the older one, due to the smaller stuff I generally do I guess.
Just this man's 2 cents :)
I replaced all my lie Nielsen saws with bad axe saws as well. I have large hands and they are amazing.. put a kink in a lie Nielsen and you’ll need a new saw.
Great video
Have you tried the Bad Axe no 9?? It is a 14" tenon saw with exposed toe, the smaller back seems to bring the weight to the hand.
No I haven't. I've used many shorter tenons saws however and much prefer the extra length. Its all about the efficiency in that case.
Veritas saws are filed very non aggressively, which is why it is taking him so many strokes in Maple.
I didn't see you mention, finger hole size in saw handles.... i have a lovely old Disston Tenon saw, 16" long and the handle is right between a 3 finger and a 4 finger handle... was gonna put a custom handle on there. Thoughts...
you all prolly dont give a shit but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my password. I appreciate any help you can give me
@Jesse Kingston instablaster =)
@Baylor Tucker i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Baylor Tucker it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Jesse Kingston No problem xD
Trying to watch but getting ads every 3-4 mins. Going down hand tool hole but becoming a bit much and I know it’s TH-cam. . {sigh} just can’t get to the info.
is there a reference for hang angles? i have a number of blades but not sure of what the handles looked like
Current Lie Nielsen carcass saw has a 14" blade (2 1/4" deep), so technically a sash saw??
Yes I would say so. Tho saw naming conventions do seem to becoming antiquated in favor of whatever you can market it as.
@@RenaissanceWWwhat is the typical geometry of a carcass saw?
@@cokinator100ify 12-14 ppi pitch, 10 ish degrees rake, and 10-15 degrees of fleam.
The Veritas DT saw comes with 14⁰ of rake, adding another 10 is gettin very close to a peg tooth shape....... do you really suggest adding another 10⁰ or did ya get mixed up a little with your numbers? I can understand if you did, ya have got like 5 bazillon saws heheh 😂
Actually what I really recommend is you don't buy the Veritas dovetail saw. I may have mixed up my numbers but the fact is the handle shape and hang angle make the saw awkward and having to alter the geometry to make it run better just ends up sacrificing efficiency
@@RenaissanceWW I already have that saw, and its xcut companion; so it's too late for me now Shannon 🤦♂️😂🤣 my bench is set for sawing (I think that's one of the most important parts of hand tool work) so when my forearm is level, the bench is only marginally lower, about 3 inches (depth of my biggest back saw) I find if I present the saw nearly flat across the edge of a board that it starts better. If I drop the heel or toe it seems to interfere with the saw, might have somethin to do with the hang and/or rake, I'm not sure, but when I drop the heel or toe the saw dont start right. I agree that they are not the best saws; far and away from anything like a Bad Axe, and a fixed back means the saw becomes scraper material if I ever twist it in a kerf (with a deeper saw, hard to twist a little DT saw)
I will relax the first few teeth a little with the next round of sharpening to see if it makes it easier to start, coz it does "stick" now and then, but that could jus be my clumsy arm 😂🤣 we dont all have laser guided pistons for arms like you Shannon 🤙
My previous comment wasnt a "dig" at you btw....... you're like my woodworking Guru/God, you're videos are playin in the background everytime I'm in the workshop 😁 I was asking a genuine question Sir 😁
@@whittysworkshop982 No worries I didn't take it as a dig. The biggest thing about the Veritas saws is the super low price. I still don't know how its possible to produces saws that cheaply so they make a great place to start.
@@RenaissanceWW their plates are made in Japan, machine sharpened saws are very common in Japan. Imagine a coil of spring steel hundreds of meters long (think of how hardware store saws are made) teeth are cut out (probably a water jet, or laser cut) the plate is cut to size and sharpened and set by machine. They save money buying plates that are ready for work, all they have to do is inject the resin back/boss assembly for the handle into a mold with the retaining rod for the handle, and shape the handle on a CNC. If you buy an English saw which costs a little more, Pax, Lynx, Greaves, R&L Dorchester (all the same saws but the different brands are like different "trim levels", made my Flinn-Garlick) there is more "hands on work" in the product. But they are not properly sharp plates either, they may be "hand sharpened" in the factory, but not to a finished edge. The saw plate is cut to size, the teeth are stamped, all by a person feeding the machine, not on a robotic assembly line like in Japan. The handles are machined at various routers set ups for the different shapes. And the traditional shape of the handle means there is more material used, and more waste involved. Folded brass backs (polished on the Pax and Dorchester saws) as opposed to molded plastic (veritas dont even do a good job at removing the "flashing" left over from the molding process) Brass saw nuts and medallions, as opposed to a threaded rod holding the handle on a Veritas. And a lot of Flinn-Garlick's machine work is guided by human hand and not CNC.
Veritas save money coz they buy plates that are ready for work, all they gotta do is melt some plastic, insert a threaded rod into the mold, and then attach the handle (which is designed to be as small as possible so it costs less and there is less waste, that's why the back continues along to the top of the handle) Their saws are made to be as cheap as possible, not to be the best possible..... they want their saws to be cheap so they can be put into more peoples hands around the world.
And this works too, they probably sell more saws than anyone else...... but in 100 years time will these "plastic" saws still live on? I'm doubtful; but enough longevity to serve my lifetime, maybe 😁
Looks like Veritas is selling Bahco saw files at the moment.
Hey everybody!
This podcast could be improved with more ads.
Disston 1870s 14 inch 12 pip blows them all away......better cast steel, better sharp teeth last longer ne’er than modern crap steel, heavier. Surprisingly, no mention of advantages weight of a tenon saw. I would not touch a modern saw, after i discovered DISTON. Henry Disston who killed off all foreign import of woodworking tools into the USA, nobody comes remotely close to that achievement. Back saws have gone down hill since 1870, like everything else, especially from China..