I got a few things about this video.. I have been doing tree work off and on for 20 years. I have taught many young men how to climb, and fell trees. And used to teach the boys in my sons scout troop. Here are the things about this video I seen.. First is your teaching style. Very calm, direct and to the point. No added BS, and with keeping a good tone. The second is how as you Are explaining what you are doing and wanting as you are doing it, mixed in with personal experience to add that extra exclamation to your message. The biggest thing about this video is your attention to saftey. Example, after you get up in a tree, adding that second lanyard incase one fails. When you go to chunk out sections, why you personally choose to cut below your snap cut. And then how you added in to alway check your lanyard before cutting. Tree work is a very dangerous business, and no matter matter how long you have been doing this kind of work, we all need good men/women to remind us of the little things to help keep us safe. And you Sir did an excellent job at that. Even though I personally believe that we should never do jobs solo, and the person there with you should be trained in first aid&cpr and know how to operate a saw and perform a rescue in many different situations that we may run into. I get it that not every job pays enough to have a second person. But I would rather you be able to go home than the grave. But other than that great video!!
Well said. I personally like the way you reinforce a good point, as whenyou are making a face cut and you talk about watching the back of the first cut to see your bar through the cut. Thanks. Even though I'll never climb I subscribed today for your knowledge without even previewing the rest of your catalogue. DOUGout
One of the best videos I've ever seen on this subject. Nothing dirty, just systematic dissection. Explanation and approach is textbook. This should be a training video for arborists man, great job 👍
That has got to be one of the best delivered, most informative and practically useful tutorials I have ever had the privilege to watch. Just subscribed to your channel. I have much to learn and you clearly have so much to teach. Thank you, Geoff
Thank you sir. Very professional. Probably the most tutorialable video ive seen on you tube. I've been cutting trees down sense i was 15, I'm 50 now. You taught me a few things. Need more people like you teaching. Stay safe bro
Great skills sir and I love the scripture at the end. Praying for my fellow arborists that they would come to know the One who absolutely changed my life 37 years ago.
Great video with good clear narration of what is being done and why. Best video of systematic step by step demonstration of Sizwheel cut to rotate a tree to a desired fall zone. Great job!
I was looking up videos on the "siz-wheel" cut and found yours. Thank you so much for an excellent explanation of what, why and when. This is the best I've found. Thanks Again.
Thanks for the comment! Many people haven't heard about the Lord, so I always try to include scripture in my videos. The most important thing in this life is to find Him and trust in Him for your salvation. Anybody who calls upon the name of the Lord Jesus Christ shall be saved.
It seems counter-intuitive that cutting away a sizwheel brings the tree in that direct instead of away from that side but you explained that the holding wood is HOLDING as it moves into the void you created for it. Perfect explanation. Even a dyslexic, such as myself can grasp (and REMEMBER!) the principle. Thanks. DOUGout
Thanks for the blessing of this video brother, I work solo a lot as well, and maximum 3-4 man crew for big removals. I was just mulling over buying the 540i XP, but after your recommendation I'm sold. Thanks for the Sizwheel tutorials I'll definitely be putting that into practice, and thanks for the outro, Jesus is most certainly the Door and the only way to the Father, John 14:6. God bless.
Thanks for the comment! You will not be disappointed in the 540, I have put it through a lot and have not had to perform any major maintenance on it. Although it isn't cheap, make sure to get the larger battery for it.
John 10:10 That they might have it more abundantly.. Thanks for the details, I've seen these cuts before but was not entirely sure how it worked. You cleared up the details really good so thanks for sharing.. Jose R Garcia
I want to thank you for your video. I'm joe smoe homeowner, and using this and a couple of other videos, i felled a side leaner using a sizwheel and a very tight pull rope using a come-a-long perpendicular to the lean. must have got it to fall 30 degrees from its lean, missing my deck.
I’m a new Solo subscriber, really enjoyed the great explanation of methods being used and why it was being done that way. Awesome video, I hope to watch many more of Solo’s videos! Thank you!
I too work solo for the majority of the time and as a result, have to walk away from many jobs. Now in my twilight years but this video reminded me of many things that I have let slip over the years. If you don’t learn something new each day you really are missing out on so much. An excellent demonstration of how to get the job done without drama. Thank you.
Thanks for you comment Andy. Working Solo is different a unique experience when it comes to tree work. You have to come up with a lot of creative ways to get the job done.
This video is very valuable to me. Thank you for the eye view through it all. Most professional and I wish you all the best because I have seen you at what you do so well.
A really interesting and informative video I've been a joinery machinist for many years and to see how much technique is required to fall a tree is an eye opener for me . As some would imagine it's a square flat cut on the front with the wedge cut and then the rear cut to fall the tree . Maybe for a 10ft xmas tree but this was a great video to watch and hear you explain the whys and wherefore of how to place your cuts . Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge
Really super tips about the face cut, and a great reason to put the diagonal cut in first so you can watch through the kerf while you make the horizontal cut. Good instruction about trimming the bark on each side of the hinge (I never before understood the reason for cutting "ears" on each side of the cut). Thanks for the advice about the Husqvarna axe, after I just last week purchased a Fiskars fiberglass axe... Great understanding of how the Sizwheel works too! Thanks.
Thanks for subscribing Bill. Cutting the bark off near your hinge, especially on the critical side (high side), helps you to dial in exactly how much hinge wood you have so you don't accidently cut it off. Also, diagonal cuts are great for those learning tree falling because it is much easier to match your horizontal cut. It is harder to swing under and match the cut which you will see from experienced cutters. 👍 on the husqvarna axe. This is the one I use all the time: www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Steel-Utility-Fiberglass-Handle/dp/B07NPFHQV8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=husqvarna+axe&qid=1637717941&sr=8-5 They are bullet proof, and are just short enough they don't get in your way when you put them on your back. Although I used a conventional cut on the sizwheel in the video, ideally you want to use a humboldt becuase it works better to swing the tree. When the face closes, it rotates the tree towards the void created by the sizwheel. It takes practice to get used to it. God bless and we hope to put out more videos soon that go more in depth on how to use this technique and others for those that are interested.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE great demonstration on the sizwheel! I'd seen some other videos and had been wondering about cutting the holding wood thinner on the opposite side to further exaggerate the twist/swing. Definitely want to get out and practice a bit. On the axes, another advantage of the Husky vs the Fiskars is the knob on the handle. The Fiskars knob is really exaggerated. Pretty sure it's the same on the ax and the hatchet. When pounding wedges, it honestly wants to open your grip, hook around the heel of your hand, and fly away. I sent a Fiskars hatchet over my son's shoulder one afternoon, just to illustrate the point. Now the Husky is what I carry for trail maintenance while running saws off the dirtbikes. Thanks for the tutorial!
@@teamagoge-theenduroists8683 I also have a Fiskars. It is a good axe, but the hammer pole in the back is not large enough and tends to damage wedges far more than the Husky. I have been on the receiving end of a flying axe a couple of times and it definitely gets your heart going. Thanks for the comment and being a part of the channel.
8/21/22. Just now saw this video/take down 3 tall Fir trees/flat terrain/kinda rural area/fruit trees perimeter of gravel road on owner- side of property. Across road is nice fence & large pipe gate. Excellent clear speech 💬 👏 so listening to your comments/instructions was very understandable..good job talking - thru yur methods. Camera views were perfect! Never seen that 'sizz' (?) vertical cut into side of open 'mouth' ...on side/direction of fall wanted. Kinda counter intuitive as you cut away hinge wood on side of lean! Scarey! As it would seem gravity +lean+removal of supportive 'hinge' would accelerate fall direction of lean not the desired direction. So cutting /nibbling away the 'holding' wood on desired direction of fall...planned by earlier location of open face cut...causes tree to 'roll/shift/to last ability stand now being cut & torn away by loss of bonding strength of fibrous elements...'pull-out' & falling-in-desired-direction occurs. TahDah!👍👍👍🛠🪚🪓🙂
You speak very well..brother..be safe I know what' it's like I'm solo most times ..once in while get help from buddy in his bucket .but usually he makes to much of a mess lol
Aha moment for me when I was watching, wondering if you could use a wedge too, and then you mentioned the wedge. I have about 8 leaner alders that I'm analyzing. I took one down that dropped a full 45 degrees from where I wanted. There was no damage but I figured I better get some more advice. Thanks for this.
fantastic channel. fantastic info really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us bud, its super helpful for someone like myself who is learning to be an arborist
You ever seen August Hunicke's "umbilical cord" accessory for that T540? Lets you attach the battery to the back of your harness. Huge weight reduction on the arms. I would think that would be a must-have for an electric saw. Great video, edutainment is the best.
I have never tried it Steve, but the T540IXP is really quite light even with the larger battery in it. One battery last an incredible amount of time on it. If you haven't picked one up, I highly recommend it.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE I've been eyeing one for sure. I was always a two-stroke purist since I like tinkering with them (and love the sound!), but battery-powered really begins to pay for itself over time.
I only wish John 10:8 was played without music so I could hear it . I looked John 10 : 8 up and your saying goes on through John 10: 8 - 18 , thank you !
Good video. Another thing is put some separation in your flip lines so it gives you a chance to notice before you cut through both of them. Especially if you are using non steel core lines.
I love your teaching style and you obviously know you're stuff. Watching that last sizwheel had me a little nervous, especially when you started wedging the back cut. With so much holding wood on the high side, it seems wedging it could have caused at least a partial barber chair. The tree had enough lean to fall into its lay and you could have afforded to remove at least another inch of hinge wood to get its weight to take it without wedging it. I don't mean this as a criticism, just an observation. It's very likely you know something I don't know, so I'm just curious what you think. Thanks for the awesome content.
I'm with you on cutting a little more on the high side Donny, but It would have sucked if that thing would have broke off into their fruit tree and fence. It is just one of those jobs I was extra cautious to avoid a disaster. I bet the crown would have started to move had I nibbled a little more and may have got it moving. Thanks for the comment, we all learn from each other when it comes to tree work.
I agree. I Could have nipped a bit out of it on the low side and it would have come around easier. The camera is deceiving on showing how hard a tree is leaning and where the limb weight is. Thanks for the comment Jake!
We have these big huge ratchet straps for trees like that. Put one at the top of that crack and crank it as tight as possible. Even better if you have some help to pull the tops together to close the crack while you tighten the strap. Helps to keep it together a bit more reliably for whatever your plan is. Just remember not to crush it!
Not even a novice. Just unexpectedly interested in the felling and learning the terminology. Swinging dutchman and sizwheel are different cuts. But is the aim of the cuts the same? To help a lean fall away from the lean?
The thickness of you hinge and how open your face is will prevent it from pulling the wood past your lanyard. If you have way too thick of a hinge on the side you have your sizwheel on, coupled with a face cut that is to narrow, there is a possibility the top will gain momentum and then suddenly stop without severing the hinge. This can put a ton of stress on the tree and split the wood vertically where you lanyard is attached and below. The main thing is, do not have to thick of a hinge as the top starts to go. This takes experience overtime. As you are learning, take smaller tops until you get comfortable with it.
hey thanks or taking the time to share. I just came across the dutchman the recently and tried it today for the first time. This seems just as interesting... Have you ever combined the 2?
jbbolts, you can use a dutchman + the sizwheel to get the tree moving, but I would avoid using that method in a residential setting without having a lot of experience with it. And even than, I would still suggest using a wedge to get the tree moving since it is far safer and more predictable. Try combining the two when you are out in the woods and can experiment without any risk.
Usually an opened up corner works better with support on the compression side. Likewise, a dutchman with an opened up pull side has a tenancy to roll off of the stump prematurely instead of turning around into face. The sizwheel is nothing more than an addition to a straight face to avoid compromising the pull side. Good for heavy side leans. A true swing dutchman as its known in the PNW breaks all of the holding wood across the stump as it turns around the stump. The only holding wood left by the time the tree comes to face is the corner on the pull side. Something appropriate for lesser lean but going against it further. In a lot of instances, simply opening up the face at the hinge by an Inch or so can achieve what a sizwheel can. Ultimately, the dutchman is much harder to use effectively in timber big enough to be fragile. There's a lot of drifting involved with turning trees into lay. Drifting is just what it sounds like, a tree falling through the air with nothing controlling it other than it's aerodynamics, other trees, & the wind. There's also the setup of the dutchman. To do it right, the compression side of the tree needs to be sawed up from the front until the tree starts to sit down. Then the balancing game of putting the face in close enough to the fulcrum that will be created by the back cut so that the tree actually turns and doesn't stall out & sit down. or even worse, comes back around towards you. A seasoned cutter makes it look easier than it is. It sure is satisfying when it works, though.
As someone who has felled timber, I have to disagree on making the angle cut first. The first cut is called a gunning cut, and it is much easier to gun, or sight your cut with a straight, flat cut. Maybe a feller is different from an arborist, but I have done my share of climbing as well. I'm not saying he does this incorrectly, but I was definitely taught differently on the logging site
Thanks for the comment Charles. Timber fallers have a lot more experience matching cuts than arborist due to how many trees they put on the ground during their career. That constant repetition of swinging under after making the flat cut is second nature for a seasoned faller; however, arborist that haven't had the opportunity to fall timber, and typically climb rather than cut from the ground, are not as confident at matching their cuts, so for a novice it tends to be easier to start off with an angled cut first than swing under or over to finish. I have seen quite a few people struggle to get their cuts to match, but are able to with the method of making the angle cut fist. Totally up to each individual if they want to start with the more difficult method first, which is ideal, since a novice will eventually progress to that method as they build confidence, but if they are really struggling and rarely get to fall trees from the ground, it might be easier to start them off with the method in the video. Thanks for commenting and helping people out. That is what these channels should be for.
@@SOLOTREESERVICEwell written sir. My organization only allows for the gunning cut then followed by the sloping cut. It is one of the most challenging parts to teach to my new fellers. I have learned a few techniques that help the guys but it’s still a struggle. But I don’t see anything wrong with your version as long as you are gunned correctly in the end and your face cut is cleaned up correctly. Thanks for the video really enjoyed it.
Accuracy of your face is not based off of whether you make a level cut or diagonal cut first, it is ultimately where your face is gunned. The reason I showed this in the video is for beginners rather than experienced tree fallers. It is far easier to match a cut by making a diagonal cut first then coming in with a horizontal cut. Swinging under is a skill that takes a significant amount of time to acquire and be accurate with and is not for those that only occasionally fall trees. There are still many experienced tree fallers out there that make diagonal cuts first because that is what they were taught and they are no less accurate than those that swing under to match. It really comes down to personal preference and what you feel comfortable with based on your experience and the situation you find yourself in.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE Actually, it's far easier to gun accurately by making the level cut first. This way you can make the cut and use the gun sights on the saw to aim with. Then just match your angle cut. Simple and done. If you make the angle cut first, your gun sights will be either looking at the ground (Humboldt), or at the sky (conventional). You'll be more accurate and faster too. Learn it right from the get go. Not difficult. PNW timber cutter, 41 years experience.
Hey Tanner. When I first started learning, I would climb trees on our own property that I wasn't worried about damaging. You can always go out into a patch of timber if you have something near your home and practice going up and down and moving around the tree with your steel core lanyard. Obviously avoid private property or spiking trees that will be harvested down the road. It takes a lot of time to get comfortable on them. I started with a set of steel gaffs, but they were very uncomfortable, so I got a lighter pair of aluminum gaffs which were way better. They aren't cheap, but they are worth it if you will be on them for extended periods of time. I will try and post a video that will help you guys out with learning to climb. There are a lot of things to consider when choosing a pair of gaffs, how to set them up, and how to sharpen them. Until then, get some practice in and make sure you are using a steel core lanyard. Stay at a safe height until you get the hang of it.
I use a trooper maul..splitter to bang ..wedges.little long but takes some work out of it as it's heavy..having hernia from stumps sucks I here to tell ya..
Not a criticism - I'm a newer climber, 3 years, any reason you wouldn't make the second lanyard you use a climbing line choked on the tree, that leads to the ground? The sizwheel: I would normally make a very wide face cut, and leave a lot of hinge wood on the side away from the lean. Do you think the sizwheel idea is better? Any thoughts from your experience are appreciated. Thanks for the video!
Interesting you use the the cut on the holding side basically to cripple the tree, and making it collapse upon itself. You then use the spinning inertia to use it's own weight against itself. Basically you just pulled a Dale Earnhardt move on the tree. Where he use to tap the car in front of him with his right from fender into their driver's side rear bumper, as they enter a corner. End effect was as they spun out to the right, leaving him clear path straight ahead. In a manner of speaking yes, that's a reasonable way to visualize the tree carving in on missing chunck of wood. Thg then once the tree is set into motion like the driver in front, from that instant forward, they're just along for the ride to the ground, are the wall either way. Physics did all the work in either case, and how long has this been in the books of ways to execute the art of mechanical leverage, so that it can be used in altering the direction of where you wish for it to fall, and not the way that if nature had had her way. Very interesting, and I don't ever remember hearing if. I've seen the different ways to cut the angled face cut, and even someone putting a wedge of wood or a stick even in the cut on the opposite side that wanting the tree to go. And I've e even used manipulating the cut along with ropes on big pecan, black walnut, oaks bunch of elms, and the one that makes Sparks fly from the chain Bois D arc, as will honey locust, or black memosia limbs within feet of someone's roof. The last two are rather a challenge to get to do anything you want, but eventually fall down after long battles. Haven't mentioned that I tend ramble on about much of anything, are at least anything useful these days. And He said, where two are more are gathered in my Name, therefore shell be my church. There's more to it than that, but for another time perhaps. May you have a Great Day, but may tomorrow be even Better.
David, it is dependent on a lot of factors such as leans you have on a tree, wind, species of tree etc... There is no one size fits all with falling trees. A good place to start is approximately a 1/3 of the tree for your face cut. There are times you will cut more than that, but if you are new to cutting trees I would avoid that until you can consistently put trees on the ground with around that 1/3 face cut. The larger face cuts can help with unbalancing the tree, but you can also go so deep that you can't fit wedges in the back cut. You can't go wrong with a more conservative face cut, meaning 20 to 30 percent of the tree. You want lots of room in that back cut to put wedges in. Take a look at various timber falling videos from guys that are experienced and you will say they typically stay in that 1/3 range unless there is something out of the ordinary with the tree or are very comfortable with judging leans and use that deeper face cut to make wedging it easier.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE We have about an acre of woods with a bit of standing dead. Great place to practice while cutting winter firewood, but I want to practice the right technique.
Just remember David, dead trees do not have the flexibility in the holding wood like live trees do. They tend to break off much earlier or right away if they are in bad shape. It will be good practice for you to see the differences in the hinge wood depending on the condition of the tree. Also, be really careful when falling dead trees not to get hit by a branch. With live trees it is less likely to happen due to all the foliage a branch would have to travel through to get you. On dead ones, a branch can come out a hundred feet up and gain a lot of speed before it hits you. Look up a lot as you wedge and cut so you can get out of the way if something goes wrong.
Correct. The more wood you hold on the side opposite the lean will allow you to swing the tree around. If you are really trying to get that tree to come around, cut the hinge wood on the side with the lean, otherwise known as the "low side" of the tree. Experiment on trees where you have no targets around and you will get the hang of it. There are more advanced techniques for spinning trees, but this is a good place to start.
I've been looking for a good channel and this is it, thank you for the scripture we ALL need it.
I got a few things about this video..
I have been doing tree work off and on for 20 years. I have taught many young men how to climb, and fell trees. And used to teach the boys in my sons scout troop.
Here are the things about this video I seen..
First is your teaching style. Very calm, direct and to the point. No added BS, and with keeping a good tone.
The second is how as you Are explaining what you are doing and wanting as you are doing it, mixed in with personal experience to add that extra exclamation to your message.
The biggest thing about this video is your attention to saftey. Example, after you get up in a tree, adding that second lanyard incase one fails. When you go to chunk out sections, why you personally choose to cut below your snap cut. And then how you added in to alway check your lanyard before cutting.
Tree work is a very dangerous business, and no matter matter how long you have been doing this kind of work, we all need good men/women to remind us of the little things to help keep us safe. And you Sir did an excellent job at that. Even though I personally believe that we should never do jobs solo, and the person there with you should be trained in first aid&cpr and know how to operate a saw and perform a rescue in many different situations that we may run into. I get it that not every job pays enough to have a second person. But I would rather you be able to go home than the grave.
But other than that great video!!
Well said.
I personally like the way you reinforce a good point, as whenyou are making a face cut and you talk about watching the back of the first cut to see your bar through the cut.
Thanks.
Even though I'll never climb I subscribed today for your knowledge without even previewing the rest of your catalogue.
DOUGout
One of the best videos I've ever seen on this subject. Nothing dirty, just systematic dissection. Explanation and approach is textbook. This should be a training video for arborists man, great job 👍
Agreed and well said
From the diction, enunciation, and raw information, subject aside this is probably one of the best videos on TH-cam!
Thank you very much for your words of encouragement Jake!
Absolutely awesome intro to a new cut. Thanks dude! Excellent explanations and video of the procedure. Stay safe!!
That has got to be one of the best delivered, most informative and practically useful tutorials I have ever had the privilege to watch. Just subscribed to your channel. I have much to learn and you clearly have so much to teach.
Thank you,
Geoff
Thank you sir. Very professional. Probably the most tutorialable video ive seen on you tube. I've been cutting trees down sense i was 15, I'm 50 now. You taught me a few things. Need more people like you teaching. Stay safe bro
Great skills sir and I love the scripture at the end. Praying for my fellow arborists that they would come to know the One who absolutely changed my life 37 years ago.
Excellent video, I really learned a lot and enjoyed your teaching method and the topper was the scripture at the end beautiful!😁
Great video with good clear narration of what is being done and why. Best video of systematic step by step demonstration of Sizwheel cut to rotate a tree to a desired fall zone. Great job!
Thanks Milton, and welcome to the channel!
Very good video one of the best I’ve seen thanks
Look forward to seeing more of you
I was looking up videos on the "siz-wheel" cut and found yours.
Thank you so much for an excellent explanation of what, why and when. This is the best I've found.
Thanks Again.
Good stuff, like the no fluff approach!
Amazing knowledgeable tree cutter . Thank you for such detailed info. Praying for protection up in those trees.
Fantastic job giving instructions. I work for the Forest Service as a sawyer, and I wish I had more people such as yourself to work with.
Thank you so much. I have watch a lot of vid and this is one of the best cutting
Great video, especially liked the ending.
Thanks for the comment! Many people haven't heard about the Lord, so I always try to include scripture in my videos. The most important thing in this life is to find Him and trust in Him for your salvation. Anybody who calls upon the name of the Lord Jesus Christ shall be saved.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE Amen
Awesome job showing instruction's in "Detail" on your cutting techniques ! Also loved the end of your video with John 10:8 !!! Thanks brother !
You are amazing! The way you explain, the video. Spechless. Thank you 🙏
It seems counter-intuitive that cutting away a sizwheel brings the tree in that direct instead of away from that side but you explained that the holding wood is HOLDING as it moves into the void you created for it. Perfect explanation. Even a dyslexic, such as myself can grasp (and REMEMBER!) the principle.
Thanks.
DOUGout
Thanks for the blessing of this video brother, I work solo a lot as well, and maximum 3-4 man crew for big removals. I was just mulling over buying the 540i XP, but after your recommendation I'm sold. Thanks for the Sizwheel tutorials I'll definitely be putting that into practice, and thanks for the outro, Jesus is most certainly the Door and the only way to the Father, John 14:6. God bless.
Thanks for the comment! You will not be disappointed in the 540, I have put it through a lot and have not had to perform any major maintenance on it. Although it isn't cheap, make sure to get the larger battery for it.
John 10:10 That they might have it more abundantly.. Thanks for the details, I've seen these cuts before but was not entirely sure how it worked. You cleared up the details really good so thanks for sharing.. Jose R Garcia
I want to thank you for your video. I'm joe smoe homeowner, and using this and a couple of other videos, i felled a side leaner using a sizwheel and a very tight pull rope using a come-a-long perpendicular to the lean. must have got it to fall 30 degrees from its lean, missing my deck.
Excellent instructions! I appreciate you!
You’re an excellent teacher. Keep it up! Love the video!
excellent no nonsense video...and after searching for some insight into the Sizwell this nailed it
Anyone who watches a SOLO video should receive college credit. A lot of it! Much thanks.
Nice tidy job! Lot of great advice there from experience. Thanks for sharing.
I’m a new Solo subscriber, really enjoyed the great explanation of methods being used and why it was being done that way. Awesome video, I hope to watch many more of Solo’s videos! Thank you!
I too work solo for the majority of the time and as a result, have to walk away from many jobs. Now in my twilight years but this video reminded me of many things that I have let slip over the years. If you don’t learn something new each day you really are missing out on so much. An excellent demonstration of how to get the job done without drama.
Thank you.
Thanks for you comment Andy. Working Solo is different a unique experience when it comes to tree work. You have to come up with a lot of creative ways to get the job done.
Great job. Awesome info! Stay safe!💪
This video is very valuable to me. Thank you for the eye view through it all. Most professional and I wish you all the best because I have seen you at what you do so well.
awesome video , came here for more info on the sizwheel but really enjoyed you're whole video about how you take on these jobs
Thanks Jacob, and welcome to the channel!
A really interesting and informative video I've been a joinery machinist for many years and to see how much technique is required to fall a tree is an eye opener for me . As some would imagine it's a square flat cut on the front with the wedge cut and then the rear cut to fall the tree . Maybe for a 10ft xmas tree but this was a great video to watch and hear you explain the whys and wherefore of how to place your cuts . Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge
Really super tips about the face cut, and a great reason to put the diagonal cut in first so you can watch through the kerf while you make the horizontal cut. Good instruction about trimming the bark on each side of the hinge (I never before understood the reason for cutting "ears" on each side of the cut). Thanks for the advice about the Husqvarna axe, after I just last week purchased a Fiskars fiberglass axe... Great understanding of how the Sizwheel works too! Thanks.
Thanks for subscribing Bill. Cutting the bark off near your hinge, especially on the critical side (high side), helps you to dial in exactly how much hinge wood you have so you don't accidently cut it off. Also, diagonal cuts are great for those learning tree falling because it is much easier to match your horizontal cut. It is harder to swing under and match the cut which you will see from experienced cutters. 👍 on the husqvarna axe. This is the one I use all the time:
www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-Steel-Utility-Fiberglass-Handle/dp/B07NPFHQV8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=husqvarna+axe&qid=1637717941&sr=8-5
They are bullet proof, and are just short enough they don't get in your way when you put them on your back.
Although I used a conventional cut on the sizwheel in the video, ideally you want to use a humboldt becuase it works better to swing the tree. When the face closes, it rotates the tree towards the void created by the sizwheel. It takes practice to get used to it.
God bless and we hope to put out more videos soon that go more in depth on how to use this technique and others for those that are interested.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE great demonstration on the sizwheel! I'd seen some other videos and had been wondering about cutting the holding wood thinner on the opposite side to further exaggerate the twist/swing. Definitely want to get out and practice a bit.
On the axes, another advantage of the Husky vs the Fiskars is the knob on the handle. The Fiskars knob is really exaggerated. Pretty sure it's the same on the ax and the hatchet. When pounding wedges, it honestly wants to open your grip, hook around the heel of your hand, and fly away. I sent a Fiskars hatchet over my son's shoulder one afternoon, just to illustrate the point. Now the Husky is what I carry for trail maintenance while running saws off the dirtbikes.
Thanks for the tutorial!
@@teamagoge-theenduroists8683 I also have a Fiskars. It is a good axe, but the hammer pole in the back is not large enough and tends to damage wedges far more than the Husky. I have been on the receiving end of a flying axe a couple of times and it definitely gets your heart going. Thanks for the comment and being a part of the channel.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, I really appreciate it.
You do amazing work.
8/21/22. Just now saw this video/take down 3 tall Fir trees/flat terrain/kinda rural area/fruit trees perimeter of gravel road on owner- side of property. Across road is nice fence & large pipe gate. Excellent clear speech 💬 👏 so listening to your comments/instructions was very understandable..good job talking - thru yur methods. Camera views were perfect! Never seen that 'sizz' (?) vertical cut into side of open 'mouth' ...on side/direction of fall wanted. Kinda counter intuitive as you cut away hinge wood on side of lean! Scarey! As it would seem gravity +lean+removal of supportive 'hinge' would accelerate fall direction of lean not the desired direction. So cutting /nibbling away the 'holding' wood on desired direction of fall...planned by earlier location of open face cut...causes tree to 'roll/shift/to last ability stand now being cut & torn away by loss of bonding strength of fibrous elements...'pull-out' & falling-in-desired-direction occurs. TahDah!👍👍👍🛠🪚🪓🙂
You speak very well..brother..be safe I know what' it's like I'm solo most times ..once in while get help from buddy in his bucket .but usually he makes to much of a mess lol
Aha moment for me when I was watching, wondering if you could use a wedge too, and then you mentioned the wedge. I have about 8 leaner alders that I'm analyzing. I took one down that dropped a full 45 degrees from where I wanted. There was no damage but I figured I better get some more advice. Thanks for this.
Very good video! Structured approach. Safe exemplary work. You know what you are doing. Greetings from Germany.
Really good video. I wish I knew half of what you know. Liked and subbed, looking forward to learning more.
fantastic channel. fantastic info
really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us bud, its super helpful for someone like myself who is learning to be an arborist
Fantastic job! I learned quite a bit from your video. Many thanks!
your videos and content are the best
Nice work , really enjoyed watching a Pro , Thanks for an interesting video !! Take Care , Be safe Sir !!
Nice work, well explained everything as you prescribed. Very good video. Thanks for your hard work
I love videos that impart useful knowledge.
You ever seen August Hunicke's "umbilical cord" accessory for that T540? Lets you attach the battery to the back of your harness. Huge weight reduction on the arms. I would think that would be a must-have for an electric saw. Great video, edutainment is the best.
I have never tried it Steve, but the T540IXP is really quite light even with the larger battery in it. One battery last an incredible amount of time on it. If you haven't picked one up, I highly recommend it.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE I've been eyeing one for sure. I was always a two-stroke purist since I like tinkering with them (and love the sound!), but battery-powered really begins to pay for itself over time.
You just earned yourself a new subscriber. Thank you!
Excellent work man!
Great job, logic and experience!
Great explanation and video ! Thanks 🙏
I only wish John 10:8 was played without music so I could hear it .
I looked John 10 : 8 up and your saying goes on through John 10: 8 - 18 , thank you !
Very good video, property owner has to be happy w/your work
Brilliant informative concise tree work, master of your craft Sir👊🏼 but you do need a Groundie or two🤔
Great video, ALL of it!
This is SO much better! No annoyong music. Lots of great technique tips here - thanks.
Great video, learned a lot from this!.
Thanks for the comment Stuart. I hope to post more videos in the future.
Good video. Another thing is put some separation in your flip lines so it gives you a chance to notice before you cut through both of them. Especially if you are using non steel core lines.
Subbed! Awesome tutorial. Thanks.
Great video, very helpful!!!
I love your teaching style and you obviously know you're stuff. Watching that last sizwheel had me a little nervous, especially when you started wedging the back cut. With so much holding wood on the high side, it seems wedging it could have caused at least a partial barber chair. The tree had enough lean to fall into its lay and you could have afforded to remove at least another inch of hinge wood to get its weight to take it without wedging it. I don't mean this as a criticism, just an observation. It's very likely you know something I don't know, so I'm just curious what you think. Thanks for the awesome content.
I'm with you on cutting a little more on the high side Donny, but It would have sucked if that thing would have broke off into their fruit tree and fence. It is just one of those jobs I was extra cautious to avoid a disaster. I bet the crown would have started to move had I nibbled a little more and may have got it moving. Thanks for the comment, we all learn from each other when it comes to tree work.
Nicely done! Probably could have used a small Dutchman to swing it around. But wedging was probably safer for the fruity tree!👍👊
I agree. I Could have nipped a bit out of it on the low side and it would have come around easier. The camera is deceiving on showing how hard a tree is leaning and where the limb weight is. Thanks for the comment Jake!
@@SOLOTREESERVICE I know what you mean about the camera not picking up lean very well.. I have the same problem videoing some of my trees.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE I know what you mean about the camera not picking up lean very well.. I have the same problem videoing some of my trees.
The greatest. Thank you. Very much. :)
We have these big huge ratchet straps for trees like that. Put one at the top of that crack and crank it as tight as possible. Even better if you have some help to pull the tops together to close the crack while you tighten the strap. Helps to keep it together a bit more reliably for whatever your plan is. Just remember not to crush it!
Thank you.very clear information and details
Not even a novice. Just unexpectedly interested in the felling and learning the terminology.
Swinging dutchman and sizwheel are different cuts. But is the aim of the cuts the same? To help a lean fall away from the lean?
What climbing gear do you like?
Thanks for the knowledge.
Good job bro 👏
YOU MAKE GOOD VIDEOS.
when your doing the sizwheel up there whats stopping it pulling wood down past your lanyard, i have seen them pulling more than expected
The thickness of you hinge and how open your face is will prevent it from pulling the wood past your lanyard. If you have way too thick of a hinge on the side you have your sizwheel on, coupled with a face cut that is to narrow, there is a possibility the top will gain momentum and then suddenly stop without severing the hinge. This can put a ton of stress on the tree and split the wood vertically where you lanyard is attached and below. The main thing is, do not have to thick of a hinge as the top starts to go. This takes experience overtime. As you are learning, take smaller tops until you get comfortable with it.
hey thanks or taking the time to share. I just came across the dutchman the recently and tried it today for the first time. This seems just as interesting... Have you ever combined the 2?
jbbolts, you can use a dutchman + the sizwheel to get the tree moving, but I would avoid using that method in a residential setting without having a lot of experience with it. And even than, I would still suggest using a wedge to get the tree moving since it is far safer and more predictable.
Try combining the two when you are out in the woods and can experiment without any risk.
Usually an opened up corner works better with support on the compression side.
Likewise, a dutchman with an opened up pull side has a tenancy to roll off of the stump prematurely instead of turning around into face. The sizwheel is nothing more than an addition to a straight face to avoid compromising the pull side. Good for heavy side leans. A true swing dutchman as its known in the PNW breaks all of the holding wood across the stump as it turns around the stump. The only holding wood left by the time the tree comes to face is the corner on the pull side. Something appropriate for lesser lean but going against it further.
In a lot of instances, simply opening up the face at the hinge by an Inch or so can achieve what a sizwheel can. Ultimately, the dutchman is much harder to use effectively in timber big enough to be fragile. There's a lot of drifting involved with turning trees into lay. Drifting is just what it sounds like, a tree falling through the air with nothing controlling it other than it's aerodynamics, other trees, & the wind. There's also the setup of the dutchman. To do it right, the compression side of the tree needs to be sawed up from the front until the tree starts to sit down. Then the balancing game of putting the face in close enough to the fulcrum that will be created by the back cut so that the tree actually turns and doesn't stall out & sit down. or even worse, comes back around towards you. A seasoned cutter makes it look easier than it is. It sure is satisfying when it works, though.
@@elonmust7470 I look at it more like messing up on purpose
WHERE DID YOU GET THE GLOVES ..WHO MAKES THEM ? LINK OR ITEM #.THANKS---GOOD VIDS
Brother thank you.
this is great stuff. thank you
Pretty trees .week limbs I reckon.did big white pine was huge .my 462 was so full oof Sapp thought it was go in g to blow up.
Great video. Chris TheRuralProject
As someone who has felled timber, I have to disagree on making the angle cut first. The first cut is called a gunning cut, and it is much easier to gun, or sight your cut with a straight, flat cut. Maybe a feller is different from an arborist, but I have done my share of climbing as well. I'm not saying he does this incorrectly, but I was definitely taught differently on the logging site
Thanks for the comment Charles. Timber fallers have a lot more experience matching cuts than arborist due to how many trees they put on the ground during their career. That constant repetition of swinging under after making the flat cut is second nature for a seasoned faller; however, arborist that haven't had the opportunity to fall timber, and typically climb rather than cut from the ground, are not as confident at matching their cuts, so for a novice it tends to be easier to start off with an angled cut first than swing under or over to finish.
I have seen quite a few people struggle to get their cuts to match, but are able to with the method of making the angle cut fist.
Totally up to each individual if they want to start with the more difficult method first, which is ideal, since a novice will eventually progress to that method as they build confidence, but if they are really struggling and rarely get to fall trees from the ground, it might be easier to start them off with the method in the video.
Thanks for commenting and helping people out. That is what these channels should be for.
@@SOLOTREESERVICEwell written sir. My organization only allows for the gunning cut then followed by the sloping cut. It is one of the most challenging parts to teach to my new fellers. I have learned a few techniques that help the guys but it’s still a struggle. But I don’t see anything wrong with your version as long as you are gunned correctly in the end and your face cut is cleaned up correctly. Thanks for the video really enjoyed it.
Awesome videos
For accurate gunning, make your level cut first, sight, then angle cut. Conventional or humboldt.
Accuracy of your face is not based off of whether you make a level cut or diagonal cut first, it is ultimately where your face is gunned. The reason I showed this in the video is for beginners rather than experienced tree fallers. It is far easier to match a cut by making a diagonal cut first then coming in with a horizontal cut. Swinging under is a skill that takes a significant amount of time to acquire and be accurate with and is not for those that only occasionally fall trees. There are still many experienced tree fallers out there that make diagonal cuts first because that is what they were taught and they are no less accurate than those that swing under to match. It really comes down to personal preference and what you feel comfortable with based on your experience and the situation you find yourself in.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE Actually, it's far easier to gun accurately by making the level cut first. This way you can make the cut and use the gun sights on the saw to aim with. Then just match your angle cut. Simple and done. If you make the angle cut first, your gun sights will be either looking at the ground (Humboldt), or at the sky (conventional). You'll be more accurate and faster too. Learn it right from the get go. Not difficult. PNW timber cutter, 41 years experience.
@@brianquigley7336 Totally agree with level cut using sights first. So much easier to read the aim. I've got 42 years in cutting. Time flies..
Handy cut to know
Professional wrk bro 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Going to have to get one of those
Excellent video..
God Bless .Shoe
Thank you for all your videos, very informative and instructional. Any advice for new climbers climbing on spurs for the first time?
Hey Tanner. When I first started learning, I would climb trees on our own property that I wasn't worried about damaging. You can always go out into a patch of timber if you have something near your home and practice going up and down and moving around the tree with your steel core lanyard. Obviously avoid private property or spiking trees that will be harvested down the road.
It takes a lot of time to get comfortable on them. I started with a set of steel gaffs, but they were very uncomfortable, so I got a lighter pair of aluminum gaffs which were way better. They aren't cheap, but they are worth it if you will be on them for extended periods of time. I will try and post a video that will help you guys out with learning to climb. There are a lot of things to consider when choosing a pair of gaffs, how to set them up, and how to sharpen them. Until then, get some practice in and make sure you are using a steel core lanyard. Stay at a safe height until you get the hang of it.
Have you tried the new echo electric top handle?
I haven't hosocat 1. One of the other guys has one on the channel, but I didn't get a chance to see how it performs.
God bless you 🙏🏻👍🏻💪🏻
Good job thank!
Well narrated and illustrated, though at times I found you hard to hear over the saw.
where are ya located? nice cutting brotha!
Hey Aaron, welcome to the channel. I am located in Mason County in the Pacific Northwest of Washington State.
I use a trooper maul..splitter to bang ..wedges.little long but takes some work out of it as it's heavy..having hernia from stumps sucks I here to tell ya..
Not a criticism - I'm a newer climber, 3 years, any reason you wouldn't make the second lanyard you use a climbing line choked on the tree, that leads to the ground? The sizwheel: I would normally make a very wide face cut, and leave a lot of hinge wood on the side away from the lean. Do you think the sizwheel idea is better? Any thoughts from your experience are appreciated. Thanks for the video!
Interesting you use the the cut on the holding side basically to cripple the tree, and making it collapse upon itself.
You then use the spinning inertia to use it's own weight against itself.
Basically you just pulled a Dale Earnhardt move on the tree.
Where he use to tap the car in front of him with his right from fender into their driver's side rear bumper, as they enter a corner.
End effect was as they spun out to the right, leaving him clear path straight ahead.
In a manner of speaking yes, that's a reasonable way to visualize the tree carving in on missing chunck of wood.
Thg then once the tree is set into motion like the driver in front, from that instant forward, they're just along for the ride to the ground, are the wall either way.
Physics did all the work in either case, and how long has this been in the books of ways to execute the art of mechanical leverage, so that it can be used in altering the direction of where you wish for it to fall, and not the way that if nature had had her way.
Very interesting, and I don't ever remember hearing if.
I've seen the different ways to cut the angled face cut, and even someone putting a wedge of wood or a stick even in the cut on the opposite side that wanting the tree to go.
And I've e even used manipulating the cut along with ropes on big pecan, black walnut, oaks bunch of elms, and the one that makes Sparks fly from the chain Bois D arc, as will honey locust, or black memosia limbs within feet of someone's roof.
The last two are rather a challenge to get to do anything you want, but eventually fall down after long battles.
Haven't mentioned that I tend ramble on about much of anything, are at least anything useful these days.
And He said, where two are more are gathered in my Name, therefore shell be my church.
There's more to it than that, but for another time perhaps.
May you have a Great Day, but may tomorrow be even Better.
great video
Nice video bro
When you're cutting out that wedge with the first 2 cuts, I guess you call it the hinge, how far into the tree do you cut? Half way? A third?
David, it is dependent on a lot of factors such as leans you have on a tree, wind, species of tree etc... There is no one size fits all with falling trees. A good place to start is approximately a 1/3 of the tree for your face cut. There are times you will cut more than that, but if you are new to cutting trees I would avoid that until you can consistently put trees on the ground with around that 1/3 face cut. The larger face cuts can help with unbalancing the tree, but you can also go so deep that you can't fit wedges in the back cut. You can't go wrong with a more conservative face cut, meaning 20 to 30 percent of the tree. You want lots of room in that back cut to put wedges in. Take a look at various timber falling videos from guys that are experienced and you will say they typically stay in that 1/3 range unless there is something out of the ordinary with the tree or are very comfortable with judging leans and use that deeper face cut to make wedging it easier.
@@SOLOTREESERVICE We have about an acre of woods with a bit of standing dead. Great place to practice while cutting winter firewood, but I want to practice the right technique.
Just remember David, dead trees do not have the flexibility in the holding wood like live trees do. They tend to break off much earlier or right away if they are in bad shape. It will be good practice for you to see the differences in the hinge wood depending on the condition of the tree.
Also, be really careful when falling dead trees not to get hit by a branch. With live trees it is less likely to happen due to all the foliage a branch would have to travel through to get you. On dead ones, a branch can come out a hundred feet up and gain a lot of speed before it hits you. Look up a lot as you wedge and cut so you can get out of the way if something goes wrong.
Nice work ..thank you
So basically on the last tree, you want more hinge wood on the side opposite the lean.
Correct. The more wood you hold on the side opposite the lean will allow you to swing the tree around. If you are really trying to get that tree to come around, cut the hinge wood on the side with the lean, otherwise known as the "low side" of the tree. Experiment on trees where you have no targets around and you will get the hang of it. There are more advanced techniques for spinning trees, but this is a good place to start.
that sizwheel will might work a little better with utilization of a Dutchman
Thanks brother