I have started playing with kratky style hydroponics. I'm using the Flora series of nutrients. It is super easy. You just pour in the amount of each solution into water. To change out nutrients, I just dump my old nutrient solution into my garden and make a new batch. I'm growing basil and have never seen bigger basil leaves. I am also growing dwarf tomatoes from the dwarf tomato project and they are doing very well so far. They are starting to bloom and fruit. It's been a month and they are outside in the elements.
I've heard to dissolve the different mixes separately so they are less likely to react early (or even while still dry!) with one another. So for three gallons total do one gallon of solution A, one gallon of solution B, one gallon of solution C, THEN blend them together as three gallons ABC.
It should be added in this order: masterblend, epsom salt, calcium nitrate. The MB and epsom can be combined, but must be dissolved before adding the calcium nitrate, as it can bind to the MB otherwise, tying up nutrients
Thanks for sharing your process and hydroponic system! Earlier this year, I had significant success using a knockoff Aerogarden unit and really enjoyed the small step into hydroponics and indoor tomatoes. Just this week, I decided to try an indoor kratky method with a mason jar. I like the idea of being able to easily replenish nutrients and learn from each stage of growth. It seems there is potentially more to learn from an indoor garden than outdoor because there is more controls and less unpredictable forces to affect plants. Cheers!
I've use Masterblend a few times, and I seem to recall a specific sequence for mixing the 3 components. I'm not sure why there was a sequence, but it seemed important at the time. Thanks for sharing.
I would also add to your routine to check the PH of your water. You can use a PH down product to bring it down... the algae will be a lot less of a problem if you do this and your plants will be happier. I also will add FON (force of nature) or Hydrogen Peroxide to help kill stuff you don't want and keep the system clean.
Hello Scott, this video is excellent. I am growing food indoors and outdoors including tomatoes. My tomatoes are at the same stage as yours including its first set of flowers. The difference is that l have still chosen to grow organically. If you are able to expand your grow to including a plant that is grown organically you could then do a side by side comparison. I think your tomato plants currently look less bushy than mine. I am growing 3 varieties including 1 determinate Urbana, 1 indeterminate Sweetie (Cherry) and an unknown black variety in which the seeds were passed onto me from someone elses garden. I have made my own fertilizer in 20 gallon containers with the main ingredients being brown leaves and wild grass. I also added seaweed and fish however l have to put up with a little smell which is gone after 8 hours. I have chosen to put up with the smell as the plants just look so much healthier, stronger and l feel the comparison is just too noticeable for me not be using the organic method. I saw your previous video Scott and l wish you well on your recovery after surgery. Thank you for sharing your time and experience. Best wishes Jason from Melbourne Australia.
I grow toms outdoors in tubs (organic soil) and also in aeroponics. The aero toms grow faster and produce more fruit. One of the most important things i`ve noticed over the years is my aero toms are not as susceptible to blight. The soil toms are dead and gone by the time the aero toms show any sign of it. They are not immune but the extra 4-6 weeks can be the difference between a reasonable harvest and no harvest at all :)
Great video! Hydroponic systems seem like they might help protect plants from the unwanted insects like aphids. For seed-saving, which plants would you recommend since the pollinators are not as involved as they are in a regular bed?
Would other solanums like eggplant or potatoes work? Potatoes could rot if the water is not set properly, but I think that is a lot of plants in general.
You started your system 1 year ago and I'm curious for an update. How did the season go through to harvest? I have a large ebb and flow system (8 buckets and 55 gallon reservoir) but I'm starting with 30 gallons and 3 tubs this year. I'm using a Part A/Part B liquid nutrient and so far so good. I am using an EC meter and PH meter to adjust my nutrient TDS and PH. I'm using straight perlite based on recommendations. Thanks for always having the content I need on gardening, Scott. You are much appreciated.
I had a good harvest of greens and peppers but mixed results from tomatoes. The nitrogen balance was too high and the plants grew very tall but didn't produce much fruit.
Hello scot, I always look forward to your videos. Question for you. As I am a new gardener inspired by your videos.When you srain the system water with probably unbalance chemicals would it be wise to throw it over your external raised beds?
Yes, I think it makes sense, but it could create a nutrient imbalance in the beds. I'm planning to use some of the drainage in my compost pile and in other areas I know have low nutrients.
Having toms and lettuce in the same system generally involves some compromise. Toms will grow on a nutrient formulated for lettuce but they`d do much better on a tom specific formulation at the correct strength. .If you can lay your hands on some potassium nitrate (KNO3), for 20 gallons of tom specific nutrient i`d suggest using 42.5g masterblend, 54.7g calcium nitrate (assuming Haifa or Yara brand), 36.6g magnesium sulphate and 34.5g of potassium nitrate. Aim for an EC 2.0-2.2 and PH of 5.8 - 5.9. The peat moss will tend to drive the ph down so you may need to use PH up (Potassium Hydroxide) to counter its effect. I grow my toms without any media (aeroponic) which makes life easier. I have a 10 bucket flood and drain system for peppers which uses hydroton.
If you use yucca or an enzyme like hygrozyme, you won't have any build up of bacteria of Lyme/calcium, well both would be best because yucca will stop the Lyme, and hygrometer will stop the growth
I have community water. It might make a difference but I don't have another affordable option. I plan to use the drained water in my compost pile and in areas with poor soil.
That's definitely not the way Masterblend tells you to mix your nutrients. Mixing your nutrients this way will cause them to precipitate. I know this from experience and using Masterblend for the last couple years. The correct way is to dissolve the Masterblend into the reservoir. You then dissolve your Epson salts in a separate container and slowly mix into the dissolved Masterblend. You then you dissolve the calcium nitrate in a separate container and slowly add it to the combined dissolved nutrients, mixing thoroughly. Then check your pH and make sure it's in the parameters before you feed the plants. The instructions are on the bag, just follow the instructions. It's two teaspoons of Masterblend, 2 teaspoons of calcium nitrate, and one and a half teaspoons of magnesium sulfate or Epson salt making 5 gallons of nutrients.
I have started playing with kratky style hydroponics. I'm using the Flora series of nutrients. It is super easy. You just pour in the amount of each solution into water.
To change out nutrients, I just dump my old nutrient solution into my garden and make a new batch. I'm growing basil and have never seen bigger basil leaves. I am also growing dwarf tomatoes from the dwarf tomato project and they are doing very well so far. They are starting to bloom and fruit. It's been a month and they are outside in the elements.
This is truly next level. Especially when the weather is too cold.
I've heard to dissolve the different mixes separately so they are less likely to react early (or even while still dry!) with one another. So for three gallons total do one gallon of solution A, one gallon of solution B, one gallon of solution C, THEN blend them together as three gallons ABC.
It should be added in this order: masterblend, epsom salt, calcium nitrate. The MB and epsom can be combined, but must be dissolved before adding the calcium nitrate, as it can bind to the MB otherwise, tying up nutrients
@@nicholas755
If you are making a concentrated stock solution i would keep the epsom separate from the masterblend.
Thanks for sharing your process and hydroponic system! Earlier this year, I had significant success using a knockoff Aerogarden unit and really enjoyed the small step into hydroponics and indoor tomatoes. Just this week, I decided to try an indoor kratky method with a mason jar. I like the idea of being able to easily replenish nutrients and learn from each stage of growth. It seems there is potentially more to learn from an indoor garden than outdoor because there is more controls and less unpredictable forces to affect plants. Cheers!
I've use Masterblend a few times, and I seem to recall a specific sequence for mixing the 3 components. I'm not sure why there was a sequence, but it seemed important at the time. Thanks for sharing.
When I started the video, I was hoping you'd be using Masterblend as your nutrients. As always, excellent video.
Thank You for all you do! I have always wondered about hydroponics but never tried it. Maybe someday.
This type of gardening seems very interesting to me. I wish I had the room to give it a try. TFS🌱 👍
Hello Gardner Scott 😊
Hydroponics is an interesting topic as is aquaponics using fish 🐟 😊
I would also add to your routine to check the PH of your water. You can use a PH down product to bring it down... the algae will be a lot less of a problem if you do this and your plants will be happier. I also will add FON (force of nature) or Hydrogen Peroxide to help kill stuff you don't want and keep the system clean.
Thanks. I have the pH down and plan to talk about that in a future video.
Fantastic video!
Hello Scott, this video is excellent. I am growing food indoors and outdoors including tomatoes. My tomatoes are at the same stage as yours including its first set of flowers. The difference is that l have still chosen to grow organically. If you are able to expand your grow to including a plant that is grown organically you could then do a side by side comparison. I think your tomato plants currently look less bushy than mine. I am growing 3 varieties including 1 determinate Urbana, 1 indeterminate Sweetie (Cherry) and an unknown black variety in which the seeds were passed onto me from someone elses garden. I have made my own fertilizer in 20 gallon containers with the main ingredients being brown leaves and wild grass. I also added seaweed and fish however l have to put up with a little smell which is gone after 8 hours. I have chosen to put up with the smell as the plants just look so much healthier, stronger and l feel the comparison is just too noticeable for me not be using the organic method. I saw your previous video Scott and l wish you well on your recovery after surgery. Thank you for sharing your time and experience. Best wishes Jason from Melbourne Australia.
Thanks, Jason. I'm also growing tomatoes organically in a grow tent as a comparison. It sounds like you're set up well for your tomatoes.
@@GardenerScott If l keep on top of our spider mite friends then all is working well. All the best to you Scott.
I grow toms outdoors in tubs (organic soil) and also in aeroponics. The aero toms grow faster and produce more fruit. One of the most important things i`ve noticed over the years is my aero toms are not as susceptible to blight. The soil toms are dead and gone by the time the aero toms show any sign of it. They are not immune but the extra 4-6 weeks can be the difference between a reasonable harvest and no harvest at all :)
Sounds so complicated😮
Great video! Hydroponic systems seem like they might help protect plants from the unwanted insects like aphids. For seed-saving, which plants would you recommend since the pollinators are not as involved as they are in a regular bed?
Tomatoes, peppers, beans, and peas are some easy plants that don't need pollinators.
Would other solanums like eggplant or potatoes work? Potatoes could rot if the water is not set properly, but I think that is a lot of plants in general.
You started your system 1 year ago and I'm curious for an update. How did the season go through to harvest? I have a large ebb and flow system (8 buckets and 55 gallon reservoir) but I'm starting with 30 gallons and 3 tubs this year. I'm using a Part A/Part B liquid nutrient and so far so good. I am using an EC meter and PH meter to adjust my nutrient TDS and PH. I'm using straight perlite based on recommendations. Thanks for always having the content I need on gardening, Scott. You are much appreciated.
I had a good harvest of greens and peppers but mixed results from tomatoes. The nitrogen balance was too high and the plants grew very tall but didn't produce much fruit.
Hello scot, I always look forward to your videos. Question for you. As I am a new gardener inspired by your videos.When you srain the system water with probably unbalance chemicals would it be wise to throw it over your external raised beds?
Yes, I think it makes sense, but it could create a nutrient imbalance in the beds. I'm planning to use some of the drainage in my compost pile and in other areas I know have low nutrients.
Having toms and lettuce in the same system generally involves some compromise. Toms will grow on a nutrient formulated for lettuce but they`d do much better on a tom specific formulation at the correct strength. .If you can lay your hands on some potassium nitrate (KNO3), for 20 gallons of tom specific nutrient i`d suggest using 42.5g masterblend, 54.7g calcium nitrate (assuming Haifa or Yara brand), 36.6g magnesium sulphate and 34.5g of potassium nitrate. Aim for an EC 2.0-2.2 and PH of 5.8 - 5.9. The peat moss will tend to drive the ph down so you may need to use PH up (Potassium Hydroxide) to counter its effect. I grow my toms without any media (aeroponic) which makes life easier. I have a 10 bucket flood and drain system for peppers which uses hydroton.
I would think you want to know the PH of your tap water. Would clean rain water be better?
I plan to discuss pH in another video. I don't get enough rain for that to be an option.
If you use yucca or an enzyme like hygrozyme, you won't have any build up of bacteria of Lyme/calcium, well both would be best because yucca will stop the Lyme, and hygrometer will stop the growth
Thanks for the tip.
Master Blend great for your garden
Combo*
Scott are you using well water or city? Does it make a difference? What did you do with the old liquid food?
I have community water. It might make a difference but I don't have another affordable option. I plan to use the drained water in my compost pile and in areas with poor soil.
@@GardenerScott So how often do you have to make new batches? The water we get has fluoride added.
That's definitely not the way Masterblend tells you to mix your nutrients. Mixing your nutrients this way will cause them to precipitate. I know this from experience and using Masterblend for the last couple years.
The correct way is to dissolve the Masterblend into the reservoir. You then dissolve your Epson salts in a separate container and slowly mix into the dissolved Masterblend. You then you dissolve the calcium nitrate in a separate container and slowly add it to the combined dissolved nutrients, mixing thoroughly.
Then check your pH and make sure it's in the parameters before you feed the plants.
The instructions are on the bag, just follow the instructions. It's two teaspoons of Masterblend, 2 teaspoons of calcium nitrate, and one and a half teaspoons of magnesium sulfate or Epson salt making 5 gallons of nutrients.
You have to be careful with volumetric measurements, a teaspoon of masterblend will weigh a lot more than a teaspoon of calcium nitrate.
Be careful, you’ll get addicted to hydroponics. You’ll be building larger hydroponic systems before you know it👍🏻