Also drill out your cartridge case flash holes with a #41 drill bit. The book will explain why you need to do all this and I'm not going to re-write the book here. In the past, I had two original Carbines (Carbine procedures are a little different), and the Wolf System had them shooting accurately to POA with the issue sights.
Nice series! BP doesn't need oxygen from air to burn. Burning of black powder is a reduction/oxidation reaction where oxygen is provided by the oxidizing action of potassium nitrate.
The potassium nitrate does decompose with heat to yield oxygen. The oxygen causes the sulfur to burn which creates more heat. Finally the charcoal gets hot enough that it too burns. It is the charcoal that needs the oxygen.
As I'm sure you know, all charges of powder are measured by weight, whether they are black powder or smokeless, but most powder charges are dispensed by volume, again whether it is black powder or smokeless, a powder measure is calibrated to deliver the volume of powder that equals a specific charge weight.
@TheRogueJackass I've not done paper patching myself, but it is certainly doable for .45-70. You need a mold specifically for casting paper patched bullets though.
Thank you. May I suggest that since you are on a roll with 3 really good videos you finish it up with a last one showing us how you clean your brass and rifle after shooting. That would be a big help.
If you highly compress the powder, you will crush the grains into a fine dust. This will in effect, turn the ffg into fffg or even ffffg. The old time loading manuals advised against crushing the powder. My shiloh sharps shoots minute of angle at 100 yrds. with a 535 grn. postell bullet and 60 grs. goex ctg. grade powder with almost no compression.
@cclar14 I use that bullet on occasion myself, mostly in original Trapdoor rifles. Load the same as I did in the videos...just be sure to clean the gun as soon as practical. Pyrodex fouling is even more corrosive than black powder fouling.
No. I sold my original Trapdoors about 10 years ago. But there are some important tips. The smartest thing you could do is buy "Loading Cartridges For the Original .45-70 Springfield Rifle and Carbine" by J.S. Wolf & Pat Wolf. It has all the info you need. If you don't get that book (But you really should) use only 500-grain bullets of pretty soft lead ally (1:20 or 1:30 tin to lead) and compressed charges of 70-grains of 2Fg Goex.
I have always used a card wad I was told it protects the base of the bullet from melting and becoming unstable one time I didn't use card wads and my bullets all keyholed and accuracy was lousy
I had no idea the bullet seater crimps. I knew the bullets were tight after using the seater but I bought the 45-70 factory crimp die and I feel like even when the jaws fully close it does nothing… so far I have learned that putting the seater lower gives a better full crimp. The factory crimp die was a waste of $20
The oxygen comes from potassium nitrate, not the space in between particles. The difference between 2f and 3f is the amount of surface area which influences the speed of ignition.
are you still planning on doing a video on reloading for the springfield trapdoor? maybe just the particulars for a trapdoor. i took your advice and got the book on reloading for the trapdoor. i am loading for an 1884 and with the 500 grain bullets i am getting acceptable accuracy for me and a 130 year old rifle. what a great old shooter. love the videos keep'em coming.
I wish you had shown how you measure your powder. I keep hearing that you go buy the volum and by weight when it comes to black powder. As of now I can only use my scale to measure 55 gr of black powder..Thank you
Hi Mike. I had a question as to why it’s better to use a magnum large Rifle primer in a cartridge used in a antique weapon like my 1888 Springfield trapdoor. Thank you.
Just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate the detail of your videos. You don't just say "do it this way", you give the reason behind doing things the way you say to. It looks like we are about the same age, I'm a 1954 too, I have not tried reloading yet but I am looking forward to getting in to it with black powder weapons like the 45-70. Any suggestions for a newbie as to a good inexpensive 45-70 rifle? Please keep putting out the great videos, you have a new fan.
I have one question, how would the old time buffalo hunters load .45/70 or larger in the field? Did they use one of those old lee loaders that tapped the primer out, new primer in and bullet in with a mallet?
I tried to load some BP cartridges last night using the 520 grain Lyman 457125 bullet and the OAL is around 2.75" which is too large to chamber in my Henry single shot. Is there anyway to use this bullet? It feels like I would have to seat 0.2" more!
Do/did you use any wads on top of your powder charge and what is your opinion of using gas checks in this type of round? Thanks...very informative video series
i just recently bought a 1884 trapdoor and can't wait to load some ammo for it. what are the particulars for loading for a trapdoor? have you done a video on that subject?
Please! How would you load a Hornady 250 gr bullet, as 45-70. ... Primer, which powder, how much, (min/max) would of you use wads to fill the empty space between the powder and the bullet? Lastly is lubing necessary with a 250 gr bullet
Is the 45-55-405 good to shoot in the infantry Trapdoor? I just aquired a model 1888 ... some folks are saying you can use carefully loaded smokeless loads while others yell NO! Don't do that use BP only! In a 130+ year old firearm I want something light and easy.
Hello, Nice video. Van you tell me wat kind off seater plug you are using. Because you are using a Flatnose bullet and IT Deens tot be that there are no FN seaters for this bullet????
Have you ever used lubricated wads above the powder, for me they seem to reduce fouling and increase accuracy. I would appreciate your opinion. Good video and thanks.
wouldn't you want to wait to crimp and seat the bullet to the proper depth and then turn the extra quarter to crimp? ALso isn't there companies that sells pistol seating dies that don't crimp together?
The current black powder alternative is TRAIL BOSS. It's volume and burn rate make it a good match for BP case volumes and it's main advantage is it can give you a longer shooting session before fouling makes you stop. It also cleans up a little easier. But if you bought that nice repro gun for the real feel and you are spending that much time and effort making each round, then go for that smoke and that feeling of "I got me a fire breathing dragon and I'm not afraid of you" moment that Eddie Murphy had in Shreck. Where I live it is usually easier to get Trail Boss than honest to God black powder.
Going back to the future again for some great info, thanks Mike 👍
Also drill out your cartridge case flash holes with a #41 drill bit. The book will explain why you need to do all this and I'm not going to re-write the book here. In the past, I had two original Carbines (Carbine procedures are a little different), and the Wolf System had them shooting accurately to POA with the issue sights.
Nice series! BP doesn't need oxygen from air to burn. Burning of black powder is a reduction/oxidation reaction where oxygen is provided by the oxidizing action of potassium nitrate.
The potassium nitrate does decompose with heat to yield oxygen. The oxygen causes the sulfur to burn which creates more heat. Finally the charcoal gets hot enough that it too burns. It is the charcoal that needs the oxygen.
Most information in bp reloading. Very helpful Thanks from someone looking to start.
As I'm sure you know, all charges of powder are measured by weight, whether they are black powder or smokeless, but most powder charges are dispensed by volume, again whether it is black powder or smokeless, a powder measure is calibrated to deliver the volume of powder that equals a specific charge weight.
duelist1954 I weigh every charge of black for my 45-70
@TheRogueJackass I've not done paper patching myself, but it is certainly doable for .45-70. You need a mold specifically for casting paper patched bullets though.
Thank you. May I suggest that since you are on a roll with 3 really good videos you finish it up with a last one showing us how you clean your brass and rifle after shooting. That would be a big help.
If you highly compress the powder, you will crush the grains into a fine dust. This will in effect, turn the ffg into fffg or even ffffg. The old time loading manuals advised against crushing the powder. My shiloh sharps shoots minute of angle at 100 yrds. with a 535 grn. postell bullet and 60 grs. goex ctg. grade powder with almost no compression.
For B-P .45-70 I use a brass adjustable powder measure. The tube has a funnel on top. I just pour the powder in.
@cclar14 I use that bullet on occasion myself, mostly in original Trapdoor rifles. Load the same as I did in the videos...just be sure to clean the gun as soon as practical. Pyrodex fouling is even more corrosive than black powder fouling.
great video.. clear and not annoying
No. I sold my original Trapdoors about 10 years ago. But there are some important tips. The smartest thing you could do is buy "Loading Cartridges For the Original .45-70 Springfield Rifle and Carbine" by J.S. Wolf & Pat Wolf. It has all the info you need. If you don't get that book (But you really should) use only 500-grain bullets of pretty soft lead ally (1:20 or 1:30 tin to lead) and compressed charges of 70-grains of 2Fg Goex.
I have always used a card wad I was told it protects the base of the bullet from melting and becoming unstable one time I didn't use card wads and my bullets all keyholed and accuracy was lousy
I had no idea the bullet seater crimps. I knew the bullets were tight after using the seater but I bought the 45-70 factory crimp die and I feel like even when the jaws fully close it does nothing… so far I have learned that putting the seater lower gives a better full crimp. The factory crimp die was a waste of $20
I'm getting a marlin 1895gs for christmas, i hope i can learn to reload my own ammo in time, your video sure will be helpful
Watch part 1 of this series. It covers lubing and sizing.
They used reloading tools that were a lot like Lyman's 310 nutcracker reloading tool.
I use 405 grain bullets and 65 grains of 2Fg black powder.
I think you have a good approach, but I would recommend that you get Buffalo Arms to make you a compression die
Lyman makes a black powder taper crimp die but no one has one. I understand ammo shortage. What does that have an to do with dies
The oxygen comes from potassium nitrate, not the space in between particles. The difference between 2f and 3f is the amount of surface area which influences the speed of ignition.
are you still planning on doing a video on reloading for the springfield trapdoor? maybe just the particulars for a trapdoor. i took your advice and got the book on reloading for the trapdoor. i am loading for an 1884 and with the 500 grain bullets i am getting acceptable accuracy for me and a 130 year old rifle. what a great old shooter. love the videos keep'em coming.
Excellent video - Thanks
I don't use a card. I'm not going to compete at long range matches. I have experimented with powder charges and compression
I have an antique trapdoor carbine, I would love to see a segment on loading for that. I would like to use it for long distance side matches in SASS
Nothing beats beeswax. I get mine from Mannlake Ltd. You can find then via google
Still trying to figure out where you got that enormous drop tube.
Very good 👍 I didn't see 👀 a next video what does that load crono at?
I wish you had shown how you measure your powder. I keep hearing that you go buy the volum and by weight when it comes to black powder. As of now I can only use my scale to measure 55 gr of black powder..Thank you
Do volume only and compress.
Hi Mike. I had a question as to why it’s better to use a magnum large Rifle primer in a cartridge used in a antique weapon like my 1888 Springfield trapdoor. Thank you.
More priming flame to ignite a dense black powder charge.
Just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate the detail of your videos. You don't just say "do it this way", you give the reason behind doing things the way you say to. It looks like we are about the same age, I'm a 1954 too, I have not tried reloading yet but I am looking forward to getting in to it with black powder weapons like the 45-70. Any suggestions for a newbie as to a good inexpensive 45-70 rifle? Please keep putting out the great videos, you have a new fan.
I have one question, how would the old time buffalo hunters load .45/70 or larger in the field? Did they use one of those old lee loaders that tapped the primer out, new primer in and bullet in with a mallet?
I don't know Mickey, people just find it I guess. Some of my videos have 100,000 views, so this one is just doing "OK"
I tried to load some BP cartridges last night using the 520 grain Lyman 457125 bullet and the OAL is around 2.75" which is too large to chamber in my Henry single shot. Is there anyway to use this bullet? It feels like I would have to seat 0.2" more!
Do/did you use any wads on top of your powder charge and what is your opinion of using gas checks in this type of round? Thanks...very informative video series
i just recently bought a 1884 trapdoor and can't wait to load some ammo for it. what are the particulars for loading for a trapdoor? have you done a video on that subject?
Please!
How would you load a Hornady 250 gr bullet, as 45-70. ... Primer, which powder, how much, (min/max) would of you use wads to fill the empty space between the powder and the bullet? Lastly is lubing necessary with a 250 gr bullet
Is the 45-55-405 good to shoot in the infantry Trapdoor? I just aquired a model 1888 ... some folks are saying you can use carefully loaded smokeless loads while others yell NO! Don't do that use BP only! In a 130+ year old firearm I want something light and easy.
Hello.
What kind of seating plug are you using , mine rcbs had a roundnose plug .
And i use 405 Flatnose ( rnfn ) Bullets.
Great video by the way
Could you please tell us when we use wads for black powder?
Do the Lee Dies have the Load data For Modern loads and black Powder Loads ?
The dies don't care which powder you use.
Hello, Nice video.
Van you tell me wat kind off seater plug you are using.
Because you are using a Flatnose bullet and IT Deens tot be that there are no FN seaters for this bullet????
Did you use any wads over the powder with only 55 grains of BP?
Can you mix 2ff and 3fff and reload 45/70. Using same formulas
I noticed you didn't paper patch your bullets.
Also Im Going to puck up a 45-70 buffilo classic HR single shot with the 32inc Barrel What Load would u recommend Grain rise
Depends on what you mean by pucking up a 45-70.
I’m worried about the crimp on mine. It’s loaded with smokeless. Should I worry
I have a modern Marlin 1895 classic in 45-70. Would it be ok to load and shoot blackpower cartridges in this rifle? Thanks
Sure
Good video. Are you measuring the powder by volume or weight?
manhattan170 measure by weight. I shoot black out of my 45-70
Do The Dies Have Black Powder Load Data of Just smokeless Load data
So you dont have to use a thin over powder card?
im gonna load the lee 459-405-hb cast boolit. and i plan on using pyrodex. any tips?
Have you ever used lubricated wads above the powder, for me they seem to reduce fouling and increase accuracy.
I would appreciate your opinion. Good video and thanks.
I usually shoot at 100 yards or less, and I don't notice any improvement at that range.
wouldn't you want to wait to crimp and seat the bullet to the proper depth and then turn the extra quarter to crimp? ALso isn't there companies that sells pistol seating dies that don't crimp together?
👍👍
What do you mean by "settle the powder in the case"? How come we don't need to settle the powder in smokeless cartridges?
Black powder must be compressed in the case or chamber lest it become a pipe bomb. It does not need any outside oxygen to burn.
Can you add 3ffg and 2ffg together. Mix them
No, you wont get a clean burn. For the 45-70 you can use literally any powder though. Ive used 1F just fine. Just use what you have on hand. Dont mix.
@@chasethompson5429 thanks have plenty of black plus sub. Just wondered
Do you recommend a book for black powder reloading for a beginner?
Lyman Black Powder Handbook and Loading Manual
Lymans, best ever right from the 19th century
I guess you don't compete for the way you reload
How did you get 24000+ views in28 monies
No wad with black powder.
would it be possible to use pyrodex rather than goex Mike?
Sure
The current black powder alternative is TRAIL BOSS. It's volume and burn rate make it a good match for BP case volumes and it's main advantage is it can give you a longer shooting session before fouling makes you stop. It also cleans up a little easier. But if you bought that nice repro gun for the real feel and you are spending that much time and effort making each round, then go for that smoke and that feeling of "I got me a fire breathing dragon and I'm not afraid of you" moment that Eddie Murphy had in Shreck. Where I live it is usually easier to get Trail Boss than honest to God black powder.