BOLTR: Swiss Made Industrial Actuator | BIG $$$$$
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ย. 2017
- We have a look at an Uber-expensive SKF Magnetic Linear Actuator. It's not as skookum as you'd think.🔥Safety Squint T-Shirt! teespring.com/SafetySquints_us
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I really appreciate a youtuber who fully illustrates how they've failed or made a stupid mistake. It's a refreshing change to see an honest person without the neurotic self absorption that makes people create overly scripted, overly polished perfect "look at me", essentially selfie youtube videos that fall along the spectrum somewhere closer to an oiled up Kim Kardashian with silicone fish lips. All filmed from a selfie stick talking about the newest, most fashionable social cause, i.e. adopt a Somali pirate baby and name him after a popular tropical fruit, or how impatient Donald was by over feeding ornamental Japanese goldfish. Anyway, thanks AvE. That's what I meant to say.
This is why I will never go on TV.
Even when you run for president?
John Possum AvE wouldn't run for president. Too competent.
Yup. Probably couldn't as he is likely a citizen of Canada not USA. Reminds me I voted last night... we have these clusterfucks of ballots with "Ranked Voting" which seems a royal PITA. We actually have some NEGATIVE vote value results. Oh, the humanity!
As if someone with your no bullshit attitude would ever be allowed on television.
Rust. The poor mans Loctite.
What about cross-threads?
Amir S The impatient poor man's loctite
No. Wife's nail paint, that's cheaper.
aserta thats what you say now, but once she finds out that is going to be really expensive loctite. It can go 2 ways. 1 will probably involve a hospital or other medical place of some sort. And the other 1 is going to involve some lawyer and you are going to lose atleast half of your stuff.
no no no NO. rust is japanese loctite... havent you ever worked on a honda?
AvE is like Wilson on Home Improvement; you never see his face but he gives you helpful life advice.
Never thought of that but you are bang on!
Good ole uncle bumblefuck
Always thought of him as a shop hand Red Green.... substitute duck tape for hpht
The Swiss use these to punch holes in their cheese.
I have a caveat about the skookumness of the gearing: Yeah, they'll die slowly if they get warm, but it says right on the thing that it's rated for a 1:9 minute duty cycle. Ain't gonna get warm if you use it like that.
Yeah, but if you give the switch to the apprentice - good luck getting him to only play with it for a minute.
Unless there is a temperature shut-off in the electric bits - it will get used more. Cheap stuff says "You used it wrong", good stuff doesn't break.
first of all cheap stuff dosn't say you used it wRong, it says you used it wong.
Now that that is out of the way we all know that the apprentice wont last more then 30second playing with a shaft going up and down...
Good stuff only breaks if you don't use it. Stay within the specs.
@AvE I cant but Im pretty sure you can calculate the force on those plastic gears so the whole actuator can withstand 6000N which is around 600kg.
All in all, I’m pretty sure those gears don’t need to whitstand a lot of force. And the argument that plastic shroud around those two gears can colaps, it cant because as I saw it sits in a round aluminum tube of the same diameter so no play for that thing. Days of all metal and skookum are over but still there are good stuff, they r just made with economy in mind.
If plastic is ok to whitstand 150% maybe even 200% load why bothering machining or sintering metal gears and housing. Swiss r smart, I wouldn’t question it.
Btw once again a good video showing some skookum stuf
Bogdan Markovic i purchase a lot of stuff swiss made (read $$$$) and they use Acrylic Delrin FR4 Nylon for construction. Some of it is required to be RF transparent. It costs a crap ton. Most things work just fine but every now and then one of those parts fail bc of the engineering not the material, which is usually engineering with that (wrong) material in the first place.
Yep, all of the above. The beauty of good engineering is understanding the requirements of the job and building something that does that job, with the minimum of parts and cost and that will last the projected lifetime.
Sure, you can build it with metal gears, but all that might do is just drive up the cost and weight. Any fule knos that it's easy to build something complicated- the art is building it as simple, as economical and as efficient as possible.
In this application, metal gears may be more inefficient in terms of costs.
I've been told nylon is self lubricating, so even if they are less strong compared to metal gears they need less or even no maintenance.
cheradanine that is why over engineerd means weaks as F. Something that has been over engineerd has been design to just barely stand up to the job it has to do for the amount of time it is intended to do that job. Poorly engineerd means skookum as frig. That stuff is way over build, strong as hell, no failure mode because if you dont know how strong it is and it should be better just make it a bit stronger to be on the safe side. That is probably why us amateur builders tend to build things a bit to strong. No calculations? Wel just put in a bit more then you think you need and its probably 2-3 times stronger then it needs to be.
Bogdan Markovic if you know the pitch of the trapezium tread and the gear ratio of the sun gear it isn't that hard anymore.
Hey AvE, there is an anti-backdrive mechanism in that support bearing housing. Ball screws have little friction, so the actuator would extend or retract with a little load if the motor isn't holding position.
Thomson linear has some pictures of their backdrive mechanism, basically a brake that locks up tight.
and he is attempting to run it without the cap on the back.(seen in the last shot). If he completed the assembly, it would likely work.
My swiss ol lady I bought off the eBay felt the pain when ya called her a sweed! She gets that shit all the time, then I gotta show them the bill of sale that came with wife hahaha
WHAT HAPPENED TO YOUR KUNTWURTH VIDEO HUH?
She's a sweet sixteener and never been chooched! I spit my coffee lmao!
you must be lost.... this is the AvE channel
Joseph Cornely also cracked my chicklets laughing
That was funny. I'm glad I wasn't drinking anything! Keep your D!ck out of jail!
Da Ca Why so salty, snowflake?
if she's got grass on the field, play ball!
Yes, this is why we all come to this channel. this is your finest work yet.
In addition to testing those rusted nuts, it would be nice to test which solution is best for keeping the bolts in place. Stuffs like loctite, nordlock wedge locking washers, spring washers and lockwire.
IIRC he already said he was going to do exactly that. At least he talked about loctite
It's a company-sponsored video, but the science is real: th-cam.com/video/IKwWu2w1gGk/w-d-xo.html
I've worked on some equipment designed by some Canuckistanians who didn't understand what salt and water does to steel. Black steel plates connected with f**king countersunk 1/4" allen key bolts with nordlock washers under the nut. Try disassembling that shit while hanging in a wire 60 meters above the north sea after it has been there for 2 years and it suddenly fails to everyones surprise. Oh, and during assembly they really splurged out on lunch and forgot to use grease at all.
Those nordlock washer are crazy, if I need something to stay put, that's where I'll put my money. Safetywire comes second.
James Banana Nordlock...end of story
James Banana lockwire for the win takes time thou
"Two Poles go into a Hall" sounds like the start of an ethnic joke, not a sensor description! I wonder if there's a Czech in there somewhere to keep an eye on them?
@Hallofo The Czechs went to the hospoda for lunch. Might be back in a couple of hours...if they can keep their balances.
you imply that there exists non etnic jokes ? That can't be.
I found this somewhat sexistic joke for a 3-way...
Have had a Centurion actuator drop a motor, and that motor was so well sealed that only after I had it out and opened it could you smell the crisp. Sealed up pretty well, the only thing was that it would run poorly, and looking after at the cremains I was not surprised. New motor and it was fine again. Now I just keep a service exchange unit, and it is a simple matter to spend 10 minutes doing the swap and then fix the other as spare. Not as nice as that, but for something that lives outdoors and runs 100 times a day getting 2 years out of them is not bad.
Maybe cut a service door over the offending area so as to make access easier?
Looks like a job for the milling machine...
Don't give those kind of ideas, next thing you know everything will have a service door.
That's what she said.
The outer cage is easy to stretch cause it's out of extruded aluminium housing. It has pretty tight fit there and it would definitely prevent from stretching.
AVE There is no reason why you should not have 10 million subscribers. Best TH-camr on TH-cam.
Been off work for a couple days well actually three and a half that's how long I've been watching all your videos loving this stuff!
Thanks for supporting Cody's Lab. Your the best!
Oddly, this is one of my favourite videos I've seen you do.
"Put it into the Round to it pile" LOL! I have one of those and it's not shrinking no thanks to all the time I stay here watching AvE.
I love these tear downs and explanations.
thankyou for putting a smile on my face and making me giggle
great point on hyd ram force being different in different directions because of the rod in the cylinder. Never even occurred to me. man i love this channel!
Not even brake clean, I’ve had sunscreen wipe a label before
Good on ye for havin' Cody's back. Much love.
Love the sound it makes,music to my ears, beam me up scotty.
This is why we build our own actuators for our foundry. Servo drive, 3000 lbf, beefy ball screws, proper seals and gaskets, hard chromed shafting, service every 3 years out of pure curiosity.
Glad to have subscribed,..thanks for the uploads,and sense of humour
Dear Uncle B, The best way to get those nuts good and rusty is using a cyclic corrosion test setup. 12-14 days in cyclic corrosion can be equivalent to approx 1 year in a rusty environment. You need to mist (or spray) the parts with a salt water solution, then dry them with a fan or elevated temperature, and repeat. Best of luck!
Ps. Would love to see you build a quick and dirty diy cyclic corrosion test chamber!
I don't know what you're talking about half the time but I love watching stuff being taken apart
Oh My Gord! "Sweet 16 and never been chooched." You are sick in the head. I like that.
my brother works at the SKF facility in Liestal. Will have to tell him that this stuff isn't skookum..
Ask him how to reassemble it while you're at it
lol
Ask him to send diagrams and manuals, preferably not in Schweitzer-Deutsche.
That Stefan G fellow can translate. AvE only knows LeatherClub German.
Absolutely, without a doubt, and completely unrivalled the best channel for blue collar types like me. Here's a firm man vegetable hand shake.
Just throttle back when you get glasses.thank you for the new line
"Let's take some shit apart!" Why I love this channel.
Really happy to see I'm not the only person that could could break a wet dream. If I can't fix it, no one can and I'll make for damn sure of it.
She runs like a Swiss watch!
What a beaut!
14:53
I cranked my head around to try to see.
Wish my teachers were as "colorful" as you.
Well, my military teachers were, but that was about murder lol, you can't be all too serious.
The "Greek Fire" looking things are actually high voltage diodes. You often see them in old school stepper motor drivers! Greetings from Schermany!
I love how many Walts you put into these things, and then how few Walts it takes to make it run. Walt!
I know this is child's play for you by now, but it really helps us why-guys out. Thanks for publishing great content.
... some kind of ball twister - no, thats my buddys wife 😂😂😂 made my day
Quadrature encoding with the 90 degree separated sensors! An attached brain would be able to extract RPM and direction. The two pole magnet and the 90 angle between the sensors would allow you to extract 8 clicks per motor shaft rotation and watching the phase relation between the transitions on both sensors will allow detecting direction. Knowing the total gear train reduction would let one calculate the position of the actuator, presuming there is also a signal available for either limit. Run it to one limit, zero a counter. Each encoder tick is 45 degrees of motor rotation, from which the linear position can be calculated, within the tolerance of ball screw backlash. Love this stuff....
My wife (a Pastor, by the way) walked in the room right at the "sweet 16 and never been chooched" comment, and now I have to explain shop porn to her. Thanks for the chuckle AvE!
Nice to see this good stuff...
I, Instead have had a lot of bad experiences with electronic stuff made in Swiss, expecially air-extractors, everything was sturdy and worked perfectly but when they broke down they always were unfixable
Thank you for helping Cody's Lab he is my second favorite TH-camr
It's amazing that you can say what kind of steel it is just by looking... your X-rays-type eyes worth a million Swiss Francs!!!
If you want to see some accelerated rusting I would try putting those nuts in bleach overnight. I found this out by accident when doing some experimenting with de-chroming some tools. I don't know the science behind it, but it sure did make those tools rust.
Magnum Oxidizer that bleach, NaClO.
It's the chlorine. Halogens attack iron with a vengeance, producing deep pitting almost immediately. Even just off-gassing from pool bleach tablets in a tool shed can destroy steel tools.
A touch of Ferric Chloride will really speed up the rust. Since it's acidic it will remove any surface contamination and it justs likes to rust with the oxidizer side.
The old bridge builders of nut and bolt times put the hardware in a bucket of piss.
A mix of acetone, alcohol, acetic acid salt and water works well too.
Nice;)Thanks AvE!
I want to say that the nylon gears are likely the most appropriate choice to implement a design-for-failure feature. Considering that its rated load isn't relatively high, if it were to fail, the gears themselves would be the easiest and likely the cheapest to replace rather than the proprietary motor or actuator (not to say the gears aren't proprietary either). Furthermore, it wouldn't be wise to have glass filled nylon on the account that it is soaked in grease and would be susceptible to moisture ingress plus, would also reduce its wear resistance.
That being said, I would argue that the nylon gears would be a fine option for this actuators intended purpose. Any thoughts?
20years ago I did my apprenticeship at Magnetic.
This was before it was part of SKF but even back then the main focus was getting the price down.
More and more parts were outsourced and production changed to assembly.
Unfortunately I have no idea how to put this all back together but I'll ask a friend who worked there until recently
The little round grey/black ball-like components are diodes. The case style are called "Axially leaded glass"
I'd really love to see you compare the Chineseum craftsman 1/2 socket wrenches to the USA made wrenches... and those compared to kobalt and harbor fright as well... I have quite the hard on for usa made craftsman tools, to a fault.... I mean who really needs 2 dozen 1/2 inch ratchet wrenches lol, guess I do... I'd love to see full tear downs of the chinesium craftsman vs the usa craftsman as well.... I love your teardowns, keep em cummin! :-)
"I have no idea how the bowl go at the bottom of the popcorn" funny !
Thanks AvE!
Took apart a massage chair motor after years of abusive massaging, and she was like new! The nylon gears were hardly worn.
That's what makes them quiet, and no need for lubes. It was Swiss made as well. Try that with metal gears!
It's a sad world where if you want to get something really good it almost has to be exclusively swiss made. After breaking 3 garlic presses I bought a Zylis for 22 bucks. A decade later its till Chooching. $100 for a swiss made (pfletscher..sp?)double kickstand. Both appear to be made out of the same aluminum/magnesium looking alloy.
Well put hypoeddy!!!! Just some guys in AvEs shop seeing how stuff works, best channel on TH-cam!!!!!!!
Try to clock the white nylon support with the transmission correctly then reinsert. Just a suggestion.
You need to watch the ad that was playing beforw this video: the ad was for the automated toiled bowl cleaning brush that spins around the bowl cleaning. Anyway, this might be a fun project to fabricobble on your own at the shop. Plenty room for integration of arduino, motors, solenoids, switches, relays and who knows what other dangerous devices.
when you first ran the thang, I hit euphoria cuz that sound, man
Those greek balls are (some kind of) diodes, these together with the resistors are probably a snubbing network.
I like how Delrin becomes "Dellarin" in UB's version of Canadian.
Anybody else convinced that he could even reverse-engineer an alien UFO? AvEguy for president! Make America Chooch again!
Awww dang never saw you lose a fight before. You're like Mike Tyson in this video and the Swiss Miss is Buster Douglas. Down goes AvE. DOWN GOES AvE!!
Perhaps you could do a video showing the difference between a ball twister and a ball screw. My plant seems to have both but they are used for wildly different applications.
Man what a fine gate opener for a 16' gate that would have made. Stout and limiters built in.
You could try milling out the housing along the length where you're having the innards gum up on you so you can get in there with some "persuaders" to keep it in line and unbound.
Hi. Thanks for the brass-shim trick! Magnetic viewing film - awesome, I'm buying that today. Plastic gears? Argh.... Well, something has to break if it jams up entirely. Sure wish it would be a plastic replaceable crush rod, instead of specific gears that are nowhere to be found.
You'll figure it out when you watch the video back... great vids though keep you the good work!!
I got semi far in the comments and didn't see it mentioned, but this looks like an office place actuator for moving desk tops up and down. We got a couple at the power plant I work at for that purpose at our operator desks. The signal wires send a height feedback to the controller.
Dude does the final position of shaft matter on Assembly I.e in your pivot end is on the diagonal to the case ? Just a an observation in my head it didn’t look right to ones I fitted on a posh house gates love the vids bro info packed and a inspiration for all peace
FYI the Greek fire balls are also diodes, sinterglass type, probably 3A rating. Yup, they take low melting glass frit, pack it around a poor unsuspecting silicon chip, and smoosh the whole thing together under heat and pressure. All goes well, you get one hell of a robust diode.
ok, its good to know im not the only one with a get to er later pile...lol..suggestions? your the tear down guru! no doubt my get to er pile is way bigger than yours...but i do learn alot from you. great vids.
I think the nylon gear housing isn't structural, it's just there to hold the gears in place while you insert it into the giant aluminum housing. Once inside, it's not deforming without bursting the AL case. (In fact, being thin is a virtue; less compression.)
Jeremiah Blatz That isn't just a nylon housing. It's one of the key mechanical parts of the force transmission in the planet gearing. The teeth on the inside actually need to take the full force of turning the actuator screw.
The dying enthusiasm is strong in this one
...
I live right next to the city this came from. Didn't expect that at all!
@AvE My suggestion: If it ain’t broke don’t fix it ;)
If it aint broke, Break It.
neogrosz e
neogrosz I wonder if the issue is where the motor pinion meets the (only 2 WTF FFS) planet(ary) gears.... I'm not a certifiable ungeneer but there's a reason why you see 3 of them, they center the motor pinion that acts a first sun gear. ...I'm only going on what uncle showed us...., please don't judge me ;)
Aaron Adams if it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
and the engineer's corollary... *If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it probably needed replacing anyway.*
Bwahahaha! "Not Booze"!!!! Hillarious bottle content label! Safety third!
Did you try unplugging it and then plugging it back in?
If you want to get good rust I recommend using vinegar and salt to break off the top layer and then use some salt water on it after to get a fresh layer of metal to have a good place to get some good rust.
ok my two cents worth the two screws on the side are to hold things in place try sliding one have down line up screw and lock her in place then slide other side in.now the first side won't be pushed to far to where the second side installed won't push the first side out of place. If it works I would love a blonde one rule and a t-shirt.
If the nylon gears are stronger than the maximum load produced by the drive motor at the point of stall, then they are fine. They don't carry the holding loads (that is taken by the brake assy behind the thrust bearing). The reason that actuator sounds so nice is BECAUSE of those helical cut nylon gears!
AVE love the intellectual content. I’m currently in a welding program in the great United States. I was wondering what type of post secondary education you have? This stuff you do really interests me. Keep it up.
Those glass balls on the PCB are diodes.Shottky-s, transient supressors, or fast diodes are packed into that kind of package.
The nylon gears only have to overcome frictional losses on that sweet sweet thread. So they aren't under too much stress. Being nylon they are going to be alot quieter than powder metal gears just not as wear tolerant.
I wouldn't bank on the resembled part locking up as a failure for AVE to reassemble it correctly. It was in the bin for a reason.
Did you put that snap ring spacer back in? If so, maybe things loosened up too much from the disassembly and adding another spacer to tighten it up will do the trick. Are you could just try glueing the gear housing to the drive coupler to keep them together.
Since you don't need it to be back exactly to factory specs, bore an access hole so you can assemble it, then plug it (maybe one of those flat threaded plugs they use on electrical boxes).
Throttling is what got those glasses in the first place.
The Greek ball things are diodes. It's a DO2 package. I have not seen stuff in that package in much modern equipment before though.
It needs pushed together to unlock that transmixer, right? Could maybe putting that clip back in the end and screwing the cap on give it the last little bit of squeeze it needs to unlock its chastity belt, maybe?
Love to watch you tackle something I wouldn’t but I would try if Ihad the money.
First step towards rust is getting the oil off them. De-grease them or better yet, heat them up to drive the oil out of the surface pores and get them ready to suck up salt water.
Damn Right! Time to take some shit apart! Got my tool box loaded with the essentials ...Screwdriver , hammer and a pair of vise grips. That fails time to fetch the Heat Wrench!
Hope to see ATF + acetone tested on those rusty bolts!
These round "ball like" components are diodes. Probably for the motor sensors. Looking at the unused header and the grey bandwire coming our some sort of hall sensor is a option.. depending which version you buy
DOOOOOOD, have you seen that fancy new insert brand sawzaw with the buzzkill tech and probably other fancy words too? Looks skookum as frig man, but I bet she looks better on the inside. Plus, what man doesn't want to get more reciprocations without getting the sweats?
The Greek fire-balls are diodes also (possibly zeners)
That thing is usually taken a part in its "zero state", meaning fully extended or fully retracted, my bet is on retracted.
I heard the Jeslus clip (that prevents it from turning at 6:54) snap out of position when the gorilla pulled the drive apart at 4:47. It's obvious the shaft needs rotate freely inside the bearing housing.
If you thermal cycle those nuts and bolts AND salt spray them they will corrode in days.
piss on'em
Gordon Richardson what about electrolysis, but reversing the pos and neg inputs?
I hesitate to say it on this channel, but it's the same with dead tree carcasses used as (for example) fence or pontoon posts. Top stays fine, below ground/water level stays fine. The rot usually happens at the interface, where there is both air exposure and water splashes.