Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 Front Axle Upper and Lower Ball Joint Removal & Installation How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2023
- In this video we're removing and installing new upper and lower front axle ball joints which hold the steering knuckle in-place, the reason for the job is because the lower ball joints either side have play and one has a tear in the rubber boot plus they are really old so time to renew them for future MOTs etc.
You will need an assortment of tools including pickle forks, copper hammer, gas torch, drip oil and optionally a ball joint puller on the top one to apply constant pressure basically you have to break the top and bottom tapers then it's a case of removing the actual ball joints themselves.
We have tried to include as much information as possible in this video and we hope it helps you if you're also looking into this job or are stuck and need some help, there's several videos already out there on how to do this job however we hope ours also helps so thanks for watching!
Items we used:
Discovery 2 Steering Knuckle Ball Joints Upper & Lower DELPHI:
www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-...
Ball joint removal and press tool kit:
amzn.to/3Xihys0
Ball joint puller and separator tool kit:
amzn.to/3DLF8Gu
HG Rust Remover (cleaning up steering knuckle)
amzn.to/3REwuz9
#discoverytd5 #discovery2 #disco2 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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I did this on a hot summer day ( 2 days 2 sets) was a beast of a time but its done about 4 years ago... now replacing axle half shafts and hubs... a lot of fun lol
I’ve just done this job and looked at your videos a few times for tips. I can assure you it’s one of the biggest bastards I’ve ever done and that’s coming from an ex Land Rover mechanic. 8 hours in total and the only way I could get the hub carrier off was to cut through the knuckle joints and then bag them out on the bench. They came out so easy so I don’t understand why they don’t come away on the axle.
The other side won’t be getting done and I’ve told the wife if it fails the MOT because of it she’ll have to get another car for the time being!!
I honestly don’t think I could put myself through the mystery again this side of Christmas..
They did last for 203,000 miles and 22 years so they haven’t done bad I guess.
thanks for your comment, it's one of the toughest jobs we have had to do that's for sure and many say the same too.
That's the next job on the list for my disco, ball joints were an advisory on the last MOT. Thankyou for the video guys, very clear and informative, great job 👍
Great video, I too have been putting off doing this job since last years MOT, the clock is ticking for this year so time to get going. Cheers
My clock ran out today 😢
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make and share. I have got this job to do on mine. Both top and bottom ones are shot. Quite a bit of vertical play, noticed while jacking the vehicle up to fit new discs and pads. Some great tips in your video, much appreciated.
Thanks, good to hear and best of luck with the job.
Great vid mate, Very informative. Thankyou for your help!
Another great video guys.
I have put this job off for a while now.
Think I will have to buy the tools to get it done.
Keep the videos coming.
thank you, yep best to get all the tools first
Great video. Thank you.
Your video was a huge help. Thank you!
Well done gents 👍🙂
Verdadeira aula , obrigado mestre.
Useful Video thank ye
You can swap the pin on the ball joint separator, to the second hole, to make the mouth wider. Should fit over the ball joint
Thanks for the tip, will try that next time I am sure it will help others too.
@@DanielJohnHowTo Thank you, kindly, for posting such a detailed video! It will be indispensable when I attempt this job
Great vid guys , thanks . I’ve removed the springs , got my little Oxy /acet bottles ready a godsend to any job where parts are interference fit or corroded ,( heat to dull red then quench for the latter, ) got that c clamp kit , steady as she goes! Would caution others useing the dremmal /die grinder though, I’ve found in the past very very easy to remove metal as well as burrs - oval ing the aperture , like you said only ever emery , (or a burr stone by hand ?) ask me how I know !? 😩) again , great video thanks!
thank you.
What paint did you use as I find hammerite paint not very good on car parts.
just some hammerite black, only thing is it won't last forever due to stone chips/cracks (front end stuff) but I tried spray paints and the coating is too thin so switched to a brush on paint and overall on the chassis etc it's lasted no issues.
Did you clean the paint from where the hub mount, I'm assuming it's meant to be a clean machined surface??.
Good video, mine have all been changed fairly recently before purchasing so I'm hoping it's not a job I need to do in the near future.
Thanks for your comment, if you're talking about the surface where the 4 bolts attach the wheel hub to the steering knuckle it has some small amount of paint on it however before attaching the wheel hub we applied a thin layer of grease then tightened bolts just for future maintenance really, but you are correct both surfaces should be clean and are machined so no paint and a little grease or nothing it's entirely up to you.
Your neighbors red case tools , Appreciate a link if possible 😊.
Really liked the fact you derusted everything first ....
If you was going to do it again, how much time would you allow to do both sides , all the best
..
Thanks, I don't have a link for the case as it's years old but you can still buy kits like it, 1-2 days or more depending on what you encounter but best to take your time with this job. Once you get the old joints out and everything is clean it takes a few minutes to install new ones that's the easy part.
@@DanielJohnHowTo all the best
thanks for the video, can you confirm if there is any way of adjusting the way the shaft sits? i noticed that my shaft sits lower on one side. ball joints are still good as they are only a few months old
the driveshaft?
@@DanielJohnHowTo i noticed that the half shaft of one side is not perfectly centered like the other side and i think this might have something to do with the fact that oil seals always seem to leak on this side. it is also hard to find a cv boot retainer clip which does not catch with the ball joint (it is that close!) ball joints are all fully driven home from what i can see and there is absolutely no play so i thought maybe there is some way of adjusting them?
Have you got a link to the press kit you used? Thanks
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075KNY8DH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1